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Some of the world's most rugged terrain challenged engineers who built this trestle on the steep hillside. RUGGED RAIL RIDE TAKES TRAVELERS INTO ALASKA'S SPECTACULAR GOLD RUSH TERRAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S DIFFICULT  to imagine our forefathers blasting a train track through the granite rock of Alaska's spectacular White Pass in the winter freeze of minus 60 degrees.  But they did!  We followed in their footsteps -- the easy way.  With binoculars and bottled water, not pick-axes, dynamite and hungry horses. White Pass and Yukon conductors bring the train home from the hills. We recently answered the "all aboard" call to ride the spectacular iron trail outside Skagway. DEPARTING  Carnival's Miracle cruise ship we walked just steps to the convenient platform of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, a daring endeavor of the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Train travelers are all eyes as the train offers stunning views on both sides. Built through some of the world's most rugged and spectacular terrain, the narrow gauge railway is still in operation, using old-fashioned parlor cars much like the originals. A narrated train journey takes travelers deep  into Yukon territory. As we left colorful Skagway behind, we climbed a steep grade past gorgeous falls, gulches, canyons and riverbeds, heading to White Pass Summit which is the international boundary between the U.S. and Canada. Keller poses in downtown Skagway where historic rail cars are on show and visitors can walk or shuttle to ships.  We'd taken a self-guided walking tour of Skagway earlier, to enjoy the dog sled and whale whaling lore, and admire the Skagway Street Car and signature yellow buses.  We also visited the world famous Red Onion Saloon's Brothel Museum - every gold rush needs ladies of the evening. Keller passed on a good time girl and instead took a look at the steam engine and a gold panning exhibit.  Teddy Roosevelt visited Skagway, named for the Tlingit word, "skagua" meaning "windy place." The pretty little town is famous for sled dogs, gardens, glassware and for being the childhood home of Sarah Palin! ("Can you see Russia?" our guide joked! "Sarah says it's right over there.") Scenic rail trip aboard the historic White Pass and Yukon Route Railway offers a chance to step outside the car as did this passenger. AFTER OUR nifty morning White Pass and Yukon Railway grounding, we boarded our White Pass car, made ourselves comfy, gazed and listened. A lively commentary described the building of this legendary railroad and the brave men who cut grade on Tunnel Mountain and other foreboding hills to accommodate the frenzied gold miners. THE HISTORY  dates to 1896 when George Carmack and two Indian companions, Skookum Jim and Dawson Charlie, found a few flakes in Bonanza Creek in the Klondike.  Although their discovery barely filled the spent cartridge of a Winchester rifle, it triggered a stampede for riches.  The Klondike gold Rush was on. A front end close up of the massive snow plow used by the train in winter. Our knowledgeable guide didn't sugarcoat this colorful episode in history.  It had its tragic side. More than 30 men were killed during the building of 110 miles of track and many horses and pack animals plunged to their deaths or starved. NOT ALL miners thought to bring proper horse feed or treat their faithful pack animals with care. Some of the work took place in dead of winter when heavy snows blocked the 16-degree turns and temperatures plunged to 60 degrees below zero. Skagway disappears as the train heads up the mountain. Amazingly, the rugged railway's construction was swift.  It began in May of 1898 and continued through a daunting winter. Workers reached the Summit of White Pass in February of 1899. THE INTERNATIONAL effort cost $10 million, a collaborative effort combining British financing, American engineering and Canadian contracting.  More than 10,000 men and 450 tons of explosives overcame climate and geography. The miracle of steel, timber and ingenuity was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, sharing the honor with the Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty and Panama Canal. CHIEF VISIONARY  behind the project, many believe, was Skagway founder, Captain William Moore. He predicted a gold rush and built a sawmill and wharf and helped blaze the trail to the Summit of White Pass, named for the Canadian minister of the interior, Sir Thomas White. Today's visitors don't have to worry about tumbling off a rocky cliff, losing a horse to starvation or suffering hunger and thirst themselves. Dense old growth pine forests flank Skagway River. THE GREEN  and yellow White Pass rail fleet includes 20 diesel-electric locomotives, 82 restored replica passenger coaches and two steam locomotives.  An ongoing modernization program keeps the fleet in tip-top condition, for it is one of Skagway's favorite tourist pursuits. We enjoyed the cars' names -- they're all christened after lakes and rivers in Alaska, Yukon and British Columbia.  Most are at least 40 years old. Lake Tutshi, vintage 1893, which starred in the 1935 movie, "Diamond Jim Brady," or Lake Lebarge, which carried Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on the same trek we took back in 1959. The oldest car is Lake Emerald, built in 1883 and still traveling the line. Picturesque Skagway is home to sled dogs and mushers, beer makers, glass blowers, fishermen and wood carvers. We learned from our guide that there are actual  foot trails, including Chilkoot, leading  to the interior lake country where stampeders began their 550-mile journey to the Yukon River and gold fields. Both the railroad's White Pass route, and the Chilkoot Trail are filled with hazards. Various enterprising people tried to cash in on the miners, including George Brackett, a one-time construction engineer who built a 12- mile toll road up White Pass canyon. So long, Skagway, as the White Pass train returns, from its rugged and scenic ride. ANGRY MINERS  tossed the toll gates down a ravine and his road was a failure. Brackett made out well, eventually, when White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company organized and paid him $110,000 for the a right-of-way. Along our return route, back towards Skagway with its quaint pastel buildings, we took a last look at the Sawtooth Mountains and admired the bright colored flora: golden arnica, pink fireweed, purple monkshood, scarlet columbine, lavender geranium, white yarrow and the deep red berries of the mountain ash. Skagway is not to be missed. Historic train and spectacular scenery and a rail ride that some consider the world's most scenic. Carnival Miracle awaits our travelers as Cookie continues her 100th cruise. More on that is coming.... COMING NEXT: Join Cookie and Keller on a landmark "100th cruise" celebration, with reflections on Cookie's global cruising -- from barging and wine tasting in the French countryside, to canal tulip cruises in Holland, Atlantic crossings on  the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, lazing in the Mediterranean and Greek Isles and transiting the Panama Canal. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out  weekly at:                                                           www.whereiscookie.com You can find best bets and travel advice on things you must see.

The Bishop Museum's several buildings range from historic to contemporary and house millions of priceless items. It represents the world's largest collection of Hawaiian and Pacific cultural artifacts and natural history specimens. Its many collections contribute to global research. MUSEUM SHINES ARTFUL SPOTLIGHT ON HISTORY OF SOUTH PACIFIC IN STATELY HONOLULU COMPLEX STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THE BISHOP Museum in Honolulu is a treasure trove. You'll go down the rabbit hole of Pacific Island discovery when you visit. Plan to spend a day to truly savor and appreciate its marvelous, eye-popping contents. SHOWCASING AN  extensive collection of Hawaiian objects and royal family heirlooms owned by a princess, the museum includes millions of objects, documents and photographs about Hawai'i and other Pacific island cultures -- from massive whale sculptures to elaborate ceremonial headdresses worn by royalty. The Bishop Museum's extensive nature related exhibits include striking mobiles of a whales, sharks and more. , Sculpture, tapestries, feathers and elaborate wall hangings are displayed artfully throughout the museum. Above, one of many intriguing pieces made of stones, shells and other materials. "The Bishop," as it is known worldwide, was founded in 1889 by Charles R. Bishop, the American husband of Hawaiian Princess Bernice Pauahi, who died in 1884. Because she was the last direct descendant of King Kamehameha, Bishop wanted to honor her legacy as well as celebrating Hawaii's cultural richness. Imagine 25 million items -- it's mind boggling. Each piece tells a story of the Pacific Islands rich and diverse history and culture. Here Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers survey the splendid collection. THE MUSEUM has gained an international reputation for its breadth and excellence. As the state's largest museum, it is the Pacific region's premier natural and cultural history institution. It is recognized worldwide for its cultural collections, research projects, consulting services and public educational programs. Feathers are part of the culture. Here, Keller admires a creation made of thousands of them, carefully plucked so the birds were not injured, but released to grow more feathers and continue life. At left, Bishop and his wife, Pauahi. The museum showcases her extensive collection acquired in her royal life WE SPENT an enlightening afternoon enjoying the exhibits -- from photographs of famous surfers to hands-on drums, to weavings, tapestries, pottery, mobiles, sculpture, murals, and intriguing diagrams.  In 1961 a planetarium and an observatory were added to emphasize the role of astronomy in the cultural history of Pacific Island peoples.   BISHOP CREATED the  museum as an enduring memorial to his beloved wife. Pauahi was a well known philanthropist and member of Hawaii's ali'i, or royalty.  She inherited many irreplaceable heirlooms from her royal family including her prestigious parents and her cousin Ruth Keʻelikōlani. She died at age 52, living only from 1831to 1884. But she was a shrewd businesswoman.  At her death, her estate was the largest private land ownership in the Hawaiian Islands, comprising an astonishing nine per cent of Hawaii's total area. The revenues from these lands are used to operate the Kamehameha Schools, established in 1887 according to Pauahi's will. Her marriage to Bishop was one of like minded philanthropists who appreciated and shared their wealth. The Hawaiian Hall at the Bishop Museum contains the world's largest collection of Polynesian artifacts. Millions of pieces of historic art and memorabilia are housed within the museum complex, a world class operation.  WE ADMIRED  many of their treasures, including stone and bone implements and containers, gorgeous feather lei and capes and stunning kihili, those distinctive long poles decorated on one end with a cluster of thousands of feather plumes.  These, and many of the other museum items, were used as ceremonial emblems by the native Hawaiian people. Bishop's mission was to honor both his wife's legacy and celebrate the rich culture of South Pacific. Well done. As our Hawaiian friends say: hele mai e ao, or "come in and learn."   https://www.bishopmuseum.org/   The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, is world famous, offering a visual feast of  treasures, including art, beautiful user-friendly exhibits and animal studies. It's free, and a wonderful place for families. UP NEXT: While we're in a museum mood, we visit one of the world's finest. The centerpiece of Wellington is the remarkable Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa which offers a cultural feast and is the focal complex in the city's unusual and popular "free museum" system. Te Papa Museum is one of many no-admission museums in Wellington, and is a much loved, user friendly place often visited by locals, school groups and by thousands of grateful visitors from all over the world. Te Papa means "container of treasures" and the museum lives up to its name. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, family, nature and more. Please share the link with other curious travelers and see our website for a library of must-see museums worldwide, with tips on hotels, bus and train tours, best food and walking tours and making the most of your time at unique attractions: www.whereiscookie.com

The view from our balcony at Hotel Mas La Boella: tranquil, at sunset, welcoming, quiet, serene and beautiful. The resort sports a noted restaurant and convention center, with an imposing 12th Century home as its centerpiece. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Hotel Mas La Boella Mas La Boella is in a privileged natural environment near the town of La Canonja, Tarragona, in the heart of the Costa Daurada. They offer an experience where the natural surroundings and a tranquil atmosphere guarantee true relaxation. Dating back to the 12th century, the former farmhouse has been completely restored as a boutique hotel with 13 designer suites, the most modern facilities and high-quality cuisine, as well as all the comforts and conveniences needed to plan a unique event. The estate's thoughtful design incorporates elements of the 12th Century home and mill, honoring southern Spain's  legacy of producing some of the world's finest olive oil. ONLY AN HOUR-PLUS  drive from bustling Barcelona, an oasis of calm and pleasure awaits. Hotel Mas La Boella is a beautifully designed boutique hotel with 13 elegant suites -- each distinct and artfully decorated -- named after the estate's bountiful variety of grapes and olives. We discovered this paradise while researching unusual places to stay, a tradition in our ten years of visiting southern Spain with its enticing array of boutique hotels and paradors. DRAWN TO  picturesque and historic Tarragona province, we were intrigued by the allure of La Boella. Foodies and olive fanciers, we loved that we'd douse our bread with oil made from the estate's own trees.  We appreciated that one of southern Spain's famed chefs creates the restaurant's delicacies.  Fragrant Tarragona wines and 300 other global offerings complement Manuel Ramirez' beautifully presented plates. A simple, delicious appetizer olive begins the feast at Espai Fortuny. BEAUTY AWAITS  the beholder everywhere.  Various elements are at play, all enhanced by nature.  The place has history -- a 12th Century country house is equipped with the latest technology.  So the hotel is pampering and serene, yet completely modern.  Our balcony offered stunning views of the olive groves, gardens and vineyards.  Our suite was beautifully enhanced with pleasing paintings evoking nearby nature. Yet we could be on line, catching up on work. Mas La Boella's stunning beauty extends inside and outside the estate. Everything is constructed with the highest standards in the estate, popular for weddings, parties, luxurious events and conferences. We strolled the grounds, admiring the mill where La Boella's famous extra virgin olive oil is made and we toured the factory, enjoying a tasting after.  At Mas la Boella the olive oil is serious business. We'd be hard pressed (no pun intended) to  find more delicious olive oil than that produced at La Boella.  We poured it over our beautifully cooked eggs.  We dipped our bread in it.  We became olive oil junkies in our several days there.  And we came home with bottles which we proudly and sparingly use, remembering a special time in a peaceful place. Lauded Catalan chef, Manuel Ramirez, sets the tone for exquisite meals,  artfully prepared with quality ingredients, including the estate's own olive oil. THE LOVELY HOTEL  is recently constructed, but has the feeling of  age -- with lacquered wood, huge windows, gorgeous giant beds ("more for dreaming than sleeping," they say. And it's true.) Breakfast at La Boella features freshly made muffins and rosquilla (donuts.) Service is an art at a La Boella meal. Here, Cookie chooses cheeses for dessert. Service is an art form at restaurant Espai Fortuny, where we capped the day with elegant, tasty lamb and fish, handsomely presented, accented with the resort's greens. WE ENJOYED  leisurely meals at the resort's highly regarded restaurant, which even in late autumn was frequented by locals as well as other lucky travelers.   Olive oils, made on the estate's mill, and other condiments await guests. La Boella's fine wines and extra virgin olive oils are sold in a lovely shop. Stairway to the stars (and our suite) with a leather covered hand rail. For more information: website: laboella.com ; email: info@laboella.com   Check back often to find more travel tips and treats that you must see at whereiscookie.com

The Flavel House and Heritage Museum in Astoria, Oregon, is one of Astoria's proudest structures. It is named after Captain George Flavel, early day Astoria ship captain who navigated the Columbia. He was also an entrepreneur and the city's first millionaire. The museum has tours and a gift shop. Astoria - "Little San Francisco": First American settlement West of the Rockies, Astoria has it all, a must see place STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Astoria Column was restored to celebrate Astoria's Bicentennial 1811 to 2011. Several fund-raising endeavors rescued the historic piece.  JOHN JACOB ASTOR   never made it to the charming Pacific Northwest town that bears his name. But the millionaire's investment in the region's booming fur trade in the early nineteenth century left an important legacy.  Based at Fort Astoria, the Pacific Fur Company  established several other posts in the Columbia River Basin The beautifully situated Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa welcomes guests on the scenic Columbia River. Several intriguing hotels including Bowline await. ASTORIA remains a vital 21st Century town,  proud of its distinction as the first American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. While the town carefully preserves links to its early 19th Century founding, it also offers "big city" pleasures with fine dining, a world class maritime museum and the beautiful, award-winning Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa, with its bird's eye views of the mighty Columbia River. Astoria's Bowline Hotel is also on the river and looks lovely. Locals and tourists enjoy a popular trolley and carefully restored Victorian and Craftsman hillside homes dot the hills. The town boasts variety and vintage, attractive contemporary buildings which blend nicely with historic homes. The town rose on prime land on the south shore of the Columbia River, near the Pacific.  The legacy of the first John Jacob Astor lives on in its well kept residences, a graceful mix of offices, shops, eateries and a splendid tower known as the Astoria Column. BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED  in several recent fundraising campaigns, the column stands sentinel over the town, a towering hilltop monument with murals depicting significant events in Oregon's early history. It survives 80 inches of rainfall a year and driving gale winds sweeping off the Pacific.  The south shore of the Columbia River is a picturesque sight, where the majestic river meets the Pacific Ocean. WE CLIMBED the unique landmark,  which rises majestically to overlook the mouth of the Columbia River on Coxcomb Hill. Completed in 1926, the imposing concrete and steel structure is part of a 30-acre city park, well loved by locals and a "must see" for tourists. Astoria's trolley is popular with locals as well as the lively tourist trade. Painted by Electus D. Litchfield and Attilio Pusterla, the column is a series of murals, boasting 32 scenes from the history of the region, including Captain Gray's discovery of the Columbia River in 1792 and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The idea for the column first came about in 1898 when the city decided that an electrified tower in a small town could attract attention, even rivaling the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It took nearly three decades to create the column with its panoramic views.  ASTORIA'S ETHNIC mix is Scandinavian, Chinese and many other races, including the native American Clatsop tribe which helped Lewis and Clark survive a seriously dreary winter in 1805.   WE ARE MUSEUM buffs so the Columbia River Maritime Museum attracted us.  Beautifully laid out, its dramatic displays showcase the fishing, shipping and military history in a dramatic waterfront building. (More on that next week.) American Pride, our cruise ship anchors in the waters of the Columbia River. Then making use of our brief time in Astoria, we took in  the Flavel House Museum, a lovely, restored Queen Anne style Victorian mansion built by a clever ship captain and real estate mogul who also had an eye for period furniture.  His wife's manicured gardens live on as volunteers maintain the grounds and beds as they were. ASTORIA ALSO has its share of bawdy history.  Along with its elegant architecture, it was also home to its share of brothels, breweries and opium dens.  That was long ago and today Astoria's trolley, a main attraction, winds past the onetime rowdy area.  The trolley is beloved by its residents, so we took a ride along the water, stopping for fish and chips then ice cream at a pair of the many inviting Astoria restaurants. The Liberty Theatre has long been a favorite vintage building. The 1925 Liberty Theater was another highlight for the two of us theater buffs. Built three years after the 1922 fire that destroyed much of the city, the one-time Vaudeville house was restored with nearly $9 million in donated funds. Astoria boasts some deep pockets and a "can do" spirit that the original J.J. Astor would certainly endorse and be proud of. We'll be back to this welcoming, interesting town, a happy blend of old, new and nice. More information :  www.americancruiselines.com ;  www.oldoregon.com ;  www.crmm.org (Maritime Museum); www.astoria.or.us ; www.libertyastoria.org ; www.bowlinehotel.com www.cannerypierhotel.com   Beautifully rendered displays of nautical life are part of the charm of Astoria's Maritime Museum. UP NEXT: While we're on the Columbia River, and only 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, we take readers inside the Columbia River Maritime Museum, considered one of the finest maritime museums in the country, and home to the largest collection of maritime artifacts in the Pacific Northwest.  More than 20,000 items, paintings, exhibits, drawings and memorabilia welcome visitors in a beautifully designed space.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The Old Town Trolley operates in seven U.S. cities, offering a unique and lively way to see each town, here San Diego. HOP ON TO EXPLORE YOUR TOWN WITH A NEW POINT OF VIEW AS WE DID IN SAN DIEGO STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The historic Hotel Del Coronado is on the trolley route. Little Italy beckons, a fun and lively place to stop. STEP ABOARD  the Old Town Trolley in seven U.S. cities and be entertained in a leisurely way as you play tourist and learn something new about the town. Located in Boston, Key West, Washington D.C., St. Augustine, Savannah, San Diego and Nashville, the trolley takes pride in showing off each city to its best advantage, exploring the historic sights and famous landmarks as well as charming hidden corners that might not be well known. Its hop on-hop off feature is a huge draw, allowing passengers to exit for lunch or a snack, shopping or a museum, or simply to stretch, wander and learn. IN SAN DIEGO , we boarded the Old Town Trolley with friends from Seattle. We four experienced all 10-stops with a mid-point "hop off" downtown, to share a meal. Enjoying a trolley stop, from left, Bruce Keller, Christene (Cookie) Meyers, Julia Ratliff and her mother, Pam. Buildings with vintage character are described. We strolled and stretched near our beautiful Horton Plaza, in which one of our favorite venues, the Lyceum Theatre, presents award-winning drama by San Diego Repertory Theatre.  We loved showing off the theater and plaza to our pals, Pam and Julia Ratliff, who share our connection to Stillwater County in Montana. After our leisurely lunch, we waited only five minutes for the next trolley.  Stops are frequent so you can time your strolling, museum visit or meal and never have to wait long.  Trolleys arrive every half hour or less. A trip through Barrio Logan gave us a look at delightful one of a kind art. BALBOA PARK  is also a fine place to "hop off" -- with wonderful museums, fountains, gardens and strolling paths. One could easily spend a day in Balboa Park alone. Each city has its parks, monuments and historic points, a lively nightlife and restaurant area in San Diego. Little Italy looked so inviting our friends returned there for dinner before heading to Coronado where they were based. The Star of India is the show piece of the San Diego Maritime Museum. If you are visiting one of the Old Town Trolley cities, your trip on the trolley will be greatly enhanced if you ride with a local person.  The driver-guides we had were great but having native son Keller with us really enhanced the day.  His asides were enriching -- about the harbor, Maritime Museum and Star of India and San Diego famous waterfront Park Keller's childhood haunts (he was born in San Diego) and more. He described our Hispanic neighborhood, Barrio Logan,  as "a blossoming artistic, industrial area with Mexican roots." At its heart is Chicano Park, with murals depicting the community’s activism, and famous Hispanic figures such as artist Frida Kahlo. Families are welcome on the trolleys. Warehouses have been converted to inviting galleries, taco shops and breweries.  At the harbor, the Maritime Museum houses a submarine and vintage ships including the Star of India. Drivers are knowledgeable, friendly and accommodating if you have a particular question or interest. ANOTHER PLUS  of the Trolley tour is a booklet of free attractions. And if you live in one of the seven cities, you can enjoy the trolley for free, when accompanied by a paying adult guest. Thanks to our Seattle friends, we enjoyed this perk. TrolleyTours.com As our San Diego adventure with Old Town Trolley Tours comes to an end, it’s worth noting that the familiar orange-and-green trolleys are just one part of a much larger North American story. The Old Town Trolley Company operates popular hop-on, hop-off sightseeing tours in several historic destinations across the United States, including cities like: Key West St. Augustine Savannah Washington D.C. Boston Nashville Each one offering its own blend of storytelling, culture, and easy sightseeing. For travelers who enjoy exploring a destination from the rails or wheels of a vintage trolley You can also read about a few other memorable rides we’ve experienced at WhereIsCookie.com including the frontier-flavored Buffalo Bill Area Trolley in Cody, Wyoming and the charming Astoria Riverfront Trolley in Astoria, Oregon. Each one proves that sometimes the best way to discover a place is to simply sit back, listen to the stories, and let the trolley roll UP NEXT:   We take you to the beloved Hotel del Coronado, across the Coronado Bridge in San Diego.  Home to movie stars, the wealthy, and setting for several movies, including "Some Like It Hot," with Marilyn Monroe, "the Del" has aged like a graceful matron. When built, she was the largest resort hotel in the world, made entirely of wood. She's survived and thrived and we share her lively history.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature and whatever else strikes our fancy. The Hotel del Coronado, known affectionately as "The Del," is a landmark in San Diego, and known throughout the western world.

The Ahwahnee Hotel (now Majestic) in Yosemite National Park has a long, rich history hosting many famous guests. The Ahwahnee Hotel (now Majestic) in Yosemite National Park has a long, rich history hosting many famous guests. CALIFORNIA LANDMARK HAS HOSTED ROYALTY, CELEBRITIES, TOURISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD -- AND SURVIVES A NAME CHANGE IN 21ST CENTURY The Yosemite scenery is world famous, a wonderland of wonderful sights.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE HISTORIC AHWAHNEE  Hotel may have the best location of any guest house in the world. Dreamed of nearly a century ago, this graceful landmark finally opened with a gala overnight party in the shadow of the Great Depression. The opening was  1927 and officials at Yosemite National Park were proud of their hotel, which carried a then unheard of price tag of well over $1 million. The Majestic Hotel's lobby combines rustic comfort with elegance. THE HISTORIC HOTEL was the brain child of Stephen Mather, first director of the National Parks (often referred to as "the father of the national park system), the plans began more than 10 years before completion. Mather's efforts persuaded congress to implement the National Park Service, and he was instrumental in the plan to create an attractive lodge in his favorite part of Yosemite. Out the door of the hotel, magnificent waterfalls and splendid scenery await. MATHER CONVINCED  D.J. Desmond to convert an old army barracks into what has now become a multi-million dollar show piece of the national park system. Its name change has confused many people and, money is at the root of the trademark dispute, resulting in the change from Ahwahnee to Majestic. Ahwahnee means "deep grassy valley" in native language.  That seems fitting, for its facade is is the jewel of the Yosemite lodging, framed by the natural landscape that attracts millions of visitors each year.   MADE OF stone and wood, the hotel is beloved for its grand public spaces featuring giant stone fireplaces, massive hand-stenciled beams, rich tapestries and elegant stained glass.   A couple combines a sunny late morning rest with cell phone catch up. The Majestic has entertained movie stars, European royalty and a host of international tourists. Among celebrities to stay are Judy Garland, Mel Gibson, Charlton Heston, Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., Joan Baez, Boris Karloff and Kim Novak. John F. Kennedy spent a night, as did Herbert Hoover and Eleanor Roosevelt. Royal visitors include Queen Ratana of Nepal, King Baudouin of Belgium, Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie, Queen Elizabeth, who overnighted with Prince Philip in 1983. Set against spectacular peaks , this historic, landmark hotel is the leading lady on a valley floor with views of Half Dome, Glacier Point and Yosemite Falls.  The hotel preserves a woodsy feeling in its nature paths. The Ahwaynee (now Majestic) has a long string of awards and status THE NAME  AHWAHNEE is derived from native American languages, and means "deep grassy valley"  The hotel is just 1.5 miles from Yosemite Village, with shopping, a museum and restaurants. It has won "Premier Lodge" classification from National Park Reservations. The Majestic Yosemite Hotel (now its official name) is marked by a striking granite facade, magnificent log-beamed ceilings, massive stone hearths, richly colored Native American artwork and finely appointed rooms. It stands, along with my Yellowstone National Park's Old Faithful Hotel, as a shining example of what we consider to be the most inventive of early national park lodging and architectural brilliance. See our stories about Historic Hotels and other must see destinations and adventures around the globe. Get the latest tips and tricks to see the most with the least effort. For more information, contact   www.whereiscookie.com UP NEXT: Elegant southern hospitality merges with holiday splendor at the Tate House in rural Georgia.  The historically famous home was built on land purchased in 1834. The structure was completed in the 1920s on an enormous vein of rare pink marble and came into its element in that decade, invoking the "Great Gatsby" era. Several incarnations later, present owners have restored it, with attention to detail. For Christmas more than a dozen rooms are decked out in holiday finery. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekends for lively arts-travel insights.

T he Hotel del Coronado is a landmark in southern California, known around the globe. It was built in 1888. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ON APPROACH , the stately Hotel Del Coronado looks like a setting for "Masterpiece Theatre." It has that lofty look of an important location. Built in 1888 -- the largest wooden structure of its day. Tourists pause to take a few photos of "the Del" and enjoy the view. AThis San Diego property is know affectionately as "the Del" by legions of fans and return guests around the world. This Luxury Hotel has history, mystery and a VIP guest list to accentuate its elegance. A proud landmark of San Diego, this Historic Hotel is inextricably linked to that of Coronado, referred to as "the island," by natives, but actually connected to mainland California. When built, this bechfront hotel drew attention for its opulence and size.  Designed as a Victorian seaside resort, it was large, impressive, grand. Marilyn Monroe on the beach at the del in 1957, filming "Some Like It Hot." PLAYGROUND of the rich and famous, the Del has hosted crews and stars for the making of several movies.  The most famous is the 1958 comedy "Some Like It Hot," the Billy Wilder classic.  It starred Marilyn Monroe as the sultry but innocent member of an all-girl touring band. Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon masquerade as women to escape the mob and -- suspend disbelief here -- the girls buy that they are female. The setting is supposed to be Florida, but this southern California landmark stood in. Luxury Hotel "the Del" opulence includes ornate chandeliers. Since its opening, "The Del" has been the  place to stay for  diplomats, actors, wealthy tourists, military brass.   Frank Sinatra joined its centennial celebration in 1988. Cary Grant, Katharine Hepburn, Ernest Hemingway and Burt Lancaster bunked there. In recent years, Ellen DeGeneres, Jack Nicholson and Oprah Winfrey checked in. Guests range from JFK and Ronald Reagan to royalty, inventors and rock stars. Frank Baum loved the Hotel Del, here relaxing with his family on the grounds.  Liberace is said to have been discovered playing piano in the lounge. Frank Baum, author of "The Wizard of Oz," spent months at the hotel, writing and reading to children. He designed the chandeliers still in the Crown Room, basing them on the crown worn by his "Oz" lion.    JFK and daughter Caroline checking in. At left below, the traditional winter ice rink. This Luxury Hotels most infamous guest is Kate Morgan, who registered under an alias on Thanksgiving in 1892, staying a few days.  She killed herself on the steps near the ocean.  Was she ill?  Heartbroken over an ill-fated romance? Her third-floor room is often requested. People claim to see ghosts and apparitions there and in the gift shop and stairs. PRICES HAVE  gone up since the hotel opened, charging $2.50 for a room, meals included. The hotel cost only $1 million to build with various types of wood, using wooden pegs rather than nails. Today, a room can run upwards from $363 to a plush grand suite for over $1,000. The property was part of a land grant, originally gifted to a  Mexican family who sold it for thousands. The Blackstone Group  sold its 63 per cent stake in the hotel for $210 million a few years ago.  If you've a yen to get hitched at the Del, and invite 100 friends, figure to spend between $32,000 and $45,000 -- that's for ceremony and reception. On the National Historic Register since 1977, the this luxury hotel on the beach has become "the talk of the western world" as its founders envisioned.  Elisha Babcock Jr. and Hampton L. Story dreamed that the hotel would become famous. So it has. Whether you’re captivated by the luxury of oceanfront suites at the Hotel del Coronado, inspired by the art and design of its historic spaces, or intrigued by the rich history and nearby museum experiences, this iconic beach resort is a must-visit destination. Explore more historic and desert escapes, along with world-class luxury hotels, in our blogs about Luxury Hotels and discover unforgettable stays that combine elegance, culture, and coastal charm. Whereiscookie.com

This larger-than-life-size chariot with driver is among 1,800 stunning artworks at Hilton Waikoloa Village. The resort acquired a multi-million dollar collection of fascinating multi-media artwork. MAGIC OF PACIFIC OCEAN LIFE INSPIRES UNIQUE HOTEL ART COLLECTION STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A classic selection of art pieces includes a variety of oars and weapons. Here, Bruce Keller admires them. A LUXURY HOTEL WITH its own museum. That's an apt description of Hilton Waikoloa Village, where a unique art collection awaits. We found the 1,800 pieces of the art hotel's "Museum Walkway" so enticing that we spent an hour of each of our days there discovering and appreciating it. Like many of our readers, we're museum aficionados, true devotees, having toured many of the world's great art houses from Russia's Hermitage to New York City's Metropolitan Museum of Art, Madrid's Prado, London's National Gallery, the Louvre in Paris,  Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, and more. A horse greets visitors by the ice machine on this floor of the Makai Tower. Makai is a direction, meaning towards the sea. But even in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Jakarta and Singapore, we had never experienced such an immersive look at Asian, Western and Oceanic cultures. While the emphasis is on Asia and the Pacific, there's a nod to classical European art in bronzes, sculpture and elegant fountains. We've not seen a more artful and beautifully displayed collection anywhere in our travels. IT HELPS TO have a background of palm trees, waterfalls, orchids, perfectly manicured hedges, ponds and pretty buildings. All that and more form an enhancing backdrop for this splendid collection. I sland batik and silk artworks are elegantly hung throughout the resort complex. We discovered this eye-popping art bonanza during a brief visit a few years ago and vowed to return to give it more time.  The collection includes more than 1,800 unique pieces with emphasis on celebrating the cultural heritage of the Pacific Island life. In so doing, it encourages an appreciation of all the world's great art, helping tourists gain specific insight into life in the islands whose people and culture settled in Hawaii. Like great museums, the pieces are thoughtfully placed in separate areas.  Four divisions are skillfully woven together so that one gets a cohesive experience. "This Luxury Hotel is also a Art Hotel''   demands a good three or four hours to enjoy it all.  We divided our "tour" over several days. We spent an hour with the Oceanic Art, which features art and artifacts from the Oceanic Region: Polynesia and Melanesia. It was right out the door of our Luxury Hotel the Makai Tower, beginning near a modern train that navigates the resort from the main lobby. We also enjoy stays at Palace and Ocean Towers, all with art to admire. The Asian and Southeast Asian Art tour covers works from China, Thailand, Burma and Indonesia, plus a variety of Hawaiian galleries in this Luxury Hotel. Again, we spent nearly an hour beginning at the lobby and walking toward Palace Tower, another building in the center of the 62-acre resort.  Located as it is on the renowned Kohala Coast, this gorgeous playground -- Hilton Waikoloa Village -- is more an elegant theme park than a hotel.    Keller and Cookie near Palace Tower, with its own Italian inspired fountain. EAST MEETS West in another portion of the exhibition with art from Asia, Japan, Polynesia and Europe. Again, 45 minutes to an hour to fully appreciate the collection between Palace Tower and Ocean Tower. Finally, the "Side Trips" tour includes artwork found along the Ocean Walkway along such stopping places as Buddha Point. A grand staircase and entrances to the resorts restaurants are also tastefully accented with artwork -- bronzes, paintings, sculpture, wall hangings, musical instruments, oars, clothing.   EVERYTHING  in the Makai Tower, the tower with prime beachfront, is designed to incorporate the elements of island life.  Dark lava rock tile floors, cheery coral bathroom counters, with wall paper to mimic tapa -- the delicately designed Hawaiian paper bark cloth. Musical instruments and ceremonial drums are on view in the resort's slate walkways. A stroll from Ocean Tower to the lobby is a pleasant 10 minutes, and offers beautiful art. The train is an option and a boat winds leisurely through the canals past sculptures. The showpiece of this luxury hotel within the complex is Makai Tower. Here Polynesian heritage and Hawaiian life are artfully honored. We in turn were honored to be part of this magnificent art -- if only for a few treasured days. www.hilton.com/en/hotels/koaotgv-hilton-grand-vacations-club-ocean-tower-waikoloa-village/ www.hiltongrandvacations.com   "One lion to another."  Christene "Cookie" Meyers, a Leo on the astrological chart, stopped each day to admire a lion inspired by Indonesian folklore.                                                          UP NEXT: If you've not experienced the wonders of the "Big Island," as the island of Hawaii is known, you're in for a treat. We'll take you there to view two of the world's most active volcanoes. You'll soon see why tourists, scientists and students have been making it a research, holiday and vacation stop for decades. Both Kilauea and Mauna Loa are located on the island, largest in the Hawaiian chain, thus its moniker.  Both volcanoes are on the Big Island and well worth investigating.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, family, travel, the arts and more: For more information on: Luxury Hotels Art Hotels Museum Hotels and unique destinations around the world click below www.whereiscookie.com On the volcano trail, Keller and Cookie pose for a selfie by the barren landscape and steam of Hawaii's active volcanoes. Visitors enjoy changing wonders each day. Since the Park service began keeping records in the 19th century, eruptions irregularly occur. frequently at Mauna Loa and Kilauea.

Honolulu's Waikiki Beach hotels are introducing new hygiene measures.  The major brands are all developing programs to insure that people who brave the world of travel are as safe and protected as possible in these stressful times. ROAD TRIPPING HAZARDS ARE LESSENED BY CONSCIENTIOUS HOTEL PROTOCOL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and hotel marketing departments Hotels are raising their sanitation standards to meet COVID-19. Closets will be disinfected in many U.S. properties. TRAVEL IS ALREADY  entering a brave new world, and the hotel industry is making sweeping changes (no pun intended) in its hygiene protocol. So say goodbye to breakfast buffets and bellhop service, and get ready for temperature screening and keyless check-in. Even before they travel, guests will find a new landing page at many hotels, detailing what they can expect during their stay. Property websites are updated as new cleaning protocols and procedures are implemented.  If your hotel offers valet parking, the attendant will be masked. According to Riverton, Wyo., Hampton Inn and Suites general manager Ryan Preston, his property is one of Hilton's 6,000-plus properties and 18 brands promising state of the art clean stays for guests willing to travel in these trying times. "We have partnered with RB -- makers of Lysol and Dettol -- to deliver an even cleaner stay for our guests," says Preston, noting that Hilton's standards are widely respected in the industry.  The popular chain has created the Hilton CleanStay program which Preston says builds on Hilton's already rigorous cleaning standards. "We want people to have complete peace of mind when they stay with us," he says, promising "the same level of reliable and friendly service you’d expect from Hilton,  but with the added confidence of industry-leading hygiene practices to keep travelers safe." Besides Hilton, Wyndham, Marriott, Choice Hotels, InterContinental and Hyatt are also developing extreme hygiene protocol. PANDEMIC-ERA  policies are being developed internationally at hotels around the globe. They will vary, but it's safe to say that guests worldwide will notice huge changes the next time they check in anywhere. Heightened cleaning protocols are in place in many properties for high-traffic areas such as the front desk, fitness centers and pools, as well as other high-touch surfaces in the hotel. Hilton is using hospital-grade disinfectant approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to combat the spread of the virus.  A housekeeping “on-demand” option is being introduced in many places.  Guests who desire no one else enter the room can request delivery of additional toiletries, towels, linens or coffee without having a housekeeper enter. They'll be placed outside in sterile wraps. Many hotel restaurants as they reopen will feature socially distanced tables, and separate paneled cubicles to keep guests apart. BREAKFAST  buffets are a popular feature in many hotels. There will be massive changes there as well as in food service in general. Buffets will be replaced with pre-packaged breakfast items and grab-and-go options.  Tables and chairs will be spaced to ensure proper physical distancing. Biodegradable, disposable dishes and utensils will be available upon request. MANY HOTELS  have discontinued room service, but where it is provided, guests will experience contactless delivery, with orders and single-use service ware placed outside the guestroom door. Pools will be frequently cleaned, and numbers of guests will be limited around the pool area, to observe distancing. Masks will also be required. Hilton is proud of its new "no contact" arrival experience.  Guests can check in, choose their room, unlock the door with a digital key and check out using their mobile devices, through a free Hilton Honors mobile app. This option is available at more than 4,700 participating Hilton properties worldwide for guests who book direct via the Honors app or at Hilton.com .  For guests who prefer a traditional check-in, physical distancing measures will be in place directing guests on how to move through the in-person check-in and check-out process in a safe way. ENTERING THE  room will be a departure from what we've come to know. Hotel housekeepers in the major chains are using hospital-strength disinfectants to clean. At Hilton, the first point of contact with the guest room will be with a Hilton CleanStay room seal, placed on the door after the room is thoroughly cleaned. The service person will have used extra disinfectant on the most frequently touched guests room areas – light switches, door handles, TV remotes, thermostats and more. Guest rooms will be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between guests, doubling the measures of pre-COVID times. ALL MAJOR  chains are revamping their public spaces, with socially-distanced furniture and increased cleaning. Some fitness centers will be closed for cleaning multiple times daily.  Equipment will be properly adjusted and placed to enable physical distancing, and the number of guests will be limited. Pools and pool areas will be cleaned frequently throughout the day, and physical distancing measures will be in place there, too. Stations with hand sanitizer and disinfecting wipes will be available throughout the property at entrances and in key high traffic areas. MARRIOTT IS  combating the virus with its new Global Cleanliness Council which, like Hilton and other major chains, requires the use of “hospital-grade” disinfectants in public spaces and guest rooms. Hilton Palm Springs is among the many Hilton brand properties with an ambitious new hygiene protocol  in place for travelers.  www.hilton.com Hyatt's program is called its Global Care and Cleanliness Commitment, using a cleaning, disinfection and infectious-disease-prevention accreditation program. By September, the brand also plans to staff hotels with  a trained "hygiene manager." That person will oversee more-frequent hotel cleanings, make sure hand sanitizer is easily available for guests and employees  and distribute masks to staff, among other duties. Brave new world indeed. Montana's rivers are one of its most seductive attractions.  We're fortunate to have the West Fork of the Stillwater River nearby, and the source of the Stillwater within an easy drive, for beautiful hiking and picnicking. UP NEXT : Back in Montana! Masks in tow, we packed for cooler weather, trying to avoid unnecessary human contact. We made it from San Diego to Montana in a leisurely four days, staying in safe, sparkling clean Hilton properties (see above for their state-of-the-art hygiene protocol.) We'll share our re-entry to The Treasure State, "Big Sky Country," as A.B. Guthrie aptly named it.  Masking, distancing, and dealing with COVID-19 has changed our Montana experience.  But we're finding both friends and strangers are mostly masking and treating one another with the respect this critical time demands. We'll report on our trip and share Montana photos and observations. Remember to explore, learn and live, and please wear a mask. Catch us each Friday for a new take on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at

A boat of happy whale watchers heads back after a successful spotting this week aboard Flagship's Marietta, with an experienced and enthusiastic crew to enrich the journey near San Diego. WHALE OF A TIME WATCHING EARTH'S MAJESTIC MARITIME CREATURES Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are happy aboard the Marietta, which they take at least once a season to watch for whales off San Diego. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" EACH WINTER , 20,000 sleek,  southbound gray whales thrill nature lovers as they glide through the waters off the coast of California on their way to the warm waters of Baja's sheltering lagoons. There, they mate, calve and fatten up for the cold winter ahead. The whale watching the annual gray whale migration is  one of Earth’s greatest wildlife spectacles, and the California coast is an outstanding place to see this grand migration. We haven't missed a season in the 15 years we've been together. Naturalist Danielle is associated with Ocean Connectors, whose aim is to educate. Flagship hosts dozens of school kids each year to spread the word for ocean conservation. Watching these enormous, graceful creatures is a thrill that never dims. Playful dolphins are a wonderful part of the adventure. Especially because they were nearly wiped out in the shameful whaling days of yore. Thanks to a moratorium on whaling and other multinational protections, the eastern Pacific population of gray whales is thriving with around 26,000 of these amazing critters now alive. WE SET   off with a familiar crew who have become friends through the years aboard Flagship's comfy Marietta.  Our goal was to see at least one whale -- which we did -- in less than a half hour! For me, the dolphins are as much a thrill as the whales.  These delightful creatures swim along side the boat, playfully leaping and turning in the water.  The babies look like little fast-floating footballs and I never tire of watching their antics, as their mothers gently nudge them to get back in line. Whales usually travel in pods of two or three. Gray whale calves are born between the end of December and beginning of February. So some mothers are mating and others are giving birth to calves conceived the year before. Since the gestation period is 12 months, the ones that mate this year won't give birth until next year. Newborn gray whale calves are about 15 feet long and weigh 1,500 lbs. During this time, the mother and calf pairs are known for their curious, friendly behavior. The mother's milk is the consistency of cottage cheese and the baby eats pounds a day. Other highlights while whale watching: Dolphins follow the boat, so many of us peer over the side for long periods of time. A COUPLE YEARS ago, Keller photographed a mother and calf, a real thrill.  This year, we spotted that very active gray and watched him for over an hour, keeping a respectable distance so as not to frighten or interfere with him. When a whale comes into view, the naturalist puts out the word and there's a rush to one side of the boat.  Don't worry, the captain is considerate and makes sure the boat turns so everyone sees. When whale watching there's a feeling of excitement and joy as we hurry to the railings. A whale, after all, is the width of a basketball court. The single whale we followed this outing was a delight.  Sometimes, we've seen four or five, but this single guy -- or gal -- put on a worthy "solo act," co-operative in his breeches and fluking, leaving a "footprint" on the water each time so we could follow him.  A splendid view of San Diego's skyline from the Marietta, approaching the city. What to look for while whale watching: "Footprint" is the disturbed water the whale leaves on the surface of the ocean when he or she flicks its tail or fluke with a downward stroke. Our captain and his crew were helpful in pointing out the whale's journey.  We followed our single whale by watching the markings on the surface even when he wasn't always visible for long.  Seeing a whale fluke is one of the great pleasures. WHEN 'OUR'  whale was diving, the naturalist provided interesting commentary on the incredible journey. With more than 20,000 grays making the impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey to the southern lagoons from their Alaskan home, there's much to talk about. The Flagship's Marietta crew includes skilled naturalists and the captain: Dale, Charles, WE ARE LUCKY in San Diego to be able to watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- often on Flagship's venerable Marietta with its full snack bar and many options for comfortable viewing inside or out. Sailor Keller has piloted our own craft on a couple whale watching adventures. But being captain is work. It's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he can play photographer.  The ship is also available for chartered events, harbor cruises, weddings, celebrations and corporate meetings and parties. There's still time for the whales if you're near. Or the whale watching in itself is worth booking a trip to San Diego for more information or to book an adventure:   www.flagshipsd.com ;   www.oceanconnectors.org   UP NEXT:  While we're on exploring the benefits of living close to the water, come with us to San Diego's wonderful nautical museums.  We're exploring them in a two-part series on the enormous aircraft carrier at the USS Midway Museum, and the multi-ship Maritime Museum with its large collection of historic maritime vessels.  Both are wonderful educational and entertainment offerings for those with an interest in the sea. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, art, nature, the ocean, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com   The San Salvador is an exact replica of the one that explorer sailed into San Diego when he discovered the bay in 1542. It is a proud part of the San Diego Maritime Museum's extraordinary collection.

Depoe Bay's small, beautiful harbor leads the way to an exciting time with resident whales. Keller and "Cookie" pose on the beutiful Big Sur coastline and enjoyed four days with the whales of Depoe Bay. They're called "residents'' because they stay several months during migration. UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH RESIDENT WHALES IN THE BAY WITH A LOVELY INN TO RELAX AND WATCH THE WORLD GO BY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Carrie Newell's passion for whales is apparent in her enthusiastic introduction to whale watching in Depoe Bay. FIRST, THERE is the irresistible lure of  whale watching in Depoe Bay. It's not to be ignored, and one brilliant and dedicated woman makes sure you understand that. She's Carrie Newell, distinguished marine biologist who has spent her impressive 35-year career researching the whales in this quiet and peaceful cove on the Oregon coast.  Depoe Bay is a marine biologist's dream. So it's no surprise that it has attracted the likes of Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of famed oceanographer and naturalist, the late Jacques Cousteau.  The younger Cousteau and colleagues have visited Newell and benefited from her expertise and research, joining her on multiple expeditions. BETWEEN outings with our whale watching expert, we relaxed and hiked at Inn at Arch Rock. It's a perfect place to unwind between whale watches and fine dining, which is abundant in Depoe Bay.  Whale watching in this magical corner on the Oregon coast in the world's smallest natural navigable harbor is breath taking. The harbor covers six acres, with a 50-foot wide, 100-foot long rockbound, dog-legged channel connecting to the Pacific Ocean. A great place to go for exciting and fun whale watching. Carrie Newel, center, returns with happy whale watchers. A grey whale spout is a stinky exhale which Carrie's dog Koda is trained to smell, react and track to visitors' delight. Whale watching in Depoe Bay is enhanced by her remarkable dog, Koda, whom she trained from an early age to spot and respond to whales. They're named and called "residents" because they hang around several months -- May to November -- feeding and enjoying the warmer waters while others move on north to Alaska.   Koda was trained from her early puppy days to smell the blow of whales and recognize that as a sign to bark. It is a clever way to alert whale watchers to a nearby whale. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, and behind them, Carrie Newell, on the trail of the grey whales in Depoe Bay. Carrie coached Koda to get excited about whales when the dog was a pup. The instruction included taking Koda along with a small boatload of whale watchers, downwind of a gray whale. Once Carrie spotted the critters with her "eagle eye" for whales, she  encouraged the dog to smell the blow. It's an aroma like bad gas or hard-boiled eggs, a sulphury blast to the nostrils. The dog learned that the blow meant the whale was near.  Koda heard and smelled the blow and alerted passengers. Soon, all could see the whale and watch for another blow. Koda's watch continued with Carrie's encouraging “Whale, whale, whale.” Koda connects the dots and responds, all without treats, just praise. "Koda's pay is lotsa love!” says Newell. BACK ON LAND, Carrie's museum is a trip in itself, a wondrous exhibit of sea treasures, lovingly collected and curated by Carrie herself.  Her lifelong love of all things ocean-connected is evident in the array of shells, nautical photos. artwork and other memorabilia -- an   amazing amount of information, displayed in a compact, efficient and eye-catching way.  RETURNING TO  the inn, you'll find yourself on a bluff above the Pacific Ocean , relaxing in one of 19 comfy units. They range from quaint and cozy rooms for two, to grand and spacious two-bedroom suites for up to six guests. Each room is individually appointed and all but one have spectacular ocean views. Trails to the ocean and a private beach are a stone's throw away. We saw whales from the balcony, and reveled in that during our too brief three-night and four-day stay. Inn at Arch Rock offers stunning views of the ocean, and often whale spouts and flukes. It's a lovely retreat. THE HOSTS are Nate and Polly Neet,  a genial couple devoted to service and the pleasure of guests. The Neets are proud, hard-working innkeepers, with a love of hospitality and a dedication to the place they've nurtured and improved with meticulous but natural looking landscaping and other loving touches. They are fonts of knowledge about the area they love, and suggested we hook up with Carrie's unique and thrilling enterprise. We did that on the first afternoon and loved it so much we made return visits each day of our stay. A bountiful breakfast is part of the room fee, and the Neets' genteel hospitality combines with a genuine affection for people and their bird's eye knowledge of the area's attractions. They'll help with restaurants, hikes, shopping or whatever's your pleasure. Their appreciative clientele spans the globe. Carrie Newell and her expertly trained colleagues navigate boats in and out of the narrow, rocky switchback. The  dramatic harbor is one of the world's smallest. OUR SECOND -floor room was spacious, modern and smartly appointed with whaling and sea life decor. Add those spectacular views of the whales from the balcony, and a pair of binoculars to enhance sightings and you're a happy visitor. A lavish breakfast of fruit, eggs, muffins, biscuits, bacon and yogurt awaits. You'll enjoy the inn's own coffee label. At day's end, comfy beds point the way to sweet dreams of whales, an enterprising marine biologist and that endearing retriever.  MORE INFO:    Carrie Newell's spectacular Whale Research EcoExcursions:  www.oregonwhales.com Inn at Arch Rock Nate and Polly Neet and their welcoming inn :  www.innatarchrock.com     UP NEXT: We're blasting off for Kennedy Center. Reaping the "labors" of the ambitious U.S. space endeavor,  we offer a two-part look at Orlando, Florida, and its wonders. The booming area attracts visitors 12 months of the year with Epcot, Universal Studios and Disney World. We explore internationally known Kennedy Space Center, take a delectable food tour, and a foray into the swamps on the trail of alligators and we take a look at a top-ranked zoo. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance, the arts and more.  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers blast off for Kennedy Space Center, where they enjoy the exhibits and take fascinating tours of the internationally known center of space research and enterprise.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids " The Monument to the Discoveries is a magnificent tribute to Portugal's power on the seas. It juts upward to depict the country's explorers, rulers and sailors who made history in their explorations of the world. With Lisboa Card the official tourist card in our carry-on, we sail into Lisbon on the majestic Tagus River. Two imposing architectural wonders catch our eye. We see the stunning limestone Monument to the Discoveries. Intricately carved, it pays homage to the country's explorers, royals and navigators who set out to explore the new world. Nearby the imposing Belem Tower stands guard on the river's bank as it has done since built as a fort in the 16th Century when Portugal was king of the seas. The Tower and Monument reveal the layers of Portugal's long seafaring history. We admire Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, men who did the near impossible in the day: found the sea route to India, discovered the Azores and Madeira, and circumnavigated the globe. Somewhere over the rainbow is the delightful city of Lisbon, Lisboa in Portuguese, awaiting your discovery. The Lisboa Card includes free admission to many of the buildings reflecting the city's rich history -- the Jerónimos Monastery, Saint Jorge Castle, and many more. The Lisboa Card the official tourist card also includes transport to and from Lisbon Airport via metro THE TAGUS River meanders through the Alfama, or old quarter, urging walkers to follow it, and soak up the sights, sounds and smells of centuries of progress and some remarkable disasters. A horrible earthquake is etched into the city's memory, and Portugal has sent off more explorers per capita than any other small country. We always enjoy a tuk-tuk ride with our friend Tomas, who knows and loves the city of his birth. Highly recommended, a leisurely way to meander and learn where to catch a concert, shop for tiles or book a side trip to Sintra and its hillside palaces., Old and sturdy, with exciting new buildings going up, Portugal is proud of its maritime tradition and its knowledge of the sea. Exploring Lisbon by tuk tuk is a fun way to get around. Here Tomas, center, takes Keller, Jane, Cookie and Rick around the city's winding streets. The museums of Lisbon celebrate the rich history and culture of this Portuguese capital city. Many are free with the Lisbon card the official tourist card. Appreciate Lisbon's dramatic stone architecture, take a guided walking tour. Use Lisboa Card the official tourist card to visit the fascinating Maritime Museum, one of the most important in Europe, evoking Portugal's domination of the seas. It's perfect for families or anyone who adores all things nautical. The city's many other museums focus on everything from Lisbon's rich maritime past to decorative Portuguese tiles, and everything in between. Fado is a national art in Portugal, where singers and musicians convey the emotion of stories. A FADO MUSEUM pays tribute to the national musical form, with concerts and tips on where to hear fado, highly recommended. Fado is deeply imbedded in the culture soulful, melancholic, and expressive. The word fado means fate or destiny. Other museums offer gems ranging from colorfully rendered miniatures of Portugal's famous doors to well preserved artifacts from the vast Portuguese empire. The city is also mecca of lively restaurants and inviting squares to relax and chat. Lisbon is a mix: stately, new, ancient and contemporary, fun and full of fascinating surprises. It is an enduring city, glistening and inviting through the centuries as a prime seaport and welcoming and economical tourist destination. Lisbon's gothic and Romanesque cathedral features many tombs, including Vasco da Gama's. One of Europe's most unsung and least visited cultural capitals, Lisbon is often overlooked in favor of Paris, Rome and the Scandinavian capitals. We have found it to be welcoming, a bit cheaper than other European capitals. Can't beat the food, music and charming people. And the Lisboa Card savings and discounts on monuments, museums, shops and services saves time and money to get the most of this fascinating, ancient and varied city. To order a Lisboa Card the official tourist card : Visitlisboa.com More information, click here Park Guell's Dragon Stairway invites visitors to climb into the magical world created by Lisbon's famed architect Antoni Gaudi, whose name is synonymous with the captivating city of Barcelona. UP NEXT: We return to another favorite southern Europe city, Barcelona. With fascinating masterpieces created by genius designer Antoni Gaudi, it is replete with eye-catching architecture. Buildings reflect the Catalan modernist movement, giving Catalan architecture worldwide recognition. Barcelona blends art nouveau, neo-gothic, and oriental styles in a unique architectural potpourri not seen anywhere else. Come along won't you?