Madeira Portugal - Funchal beckons: gardens, parks, artwork, food lure visitors to island

The drama of Madeira is partly because it rises from sea level to 6,000 feet. One can drive it in less than an hour, experiencing the beauty in a gradual climb for splendid viewing.

EXOTIC ISLAND OFFERS VARIETY OF CLIMATE, TERRAIN, AND LURES

A war memorial reminds that Madeira prefers peace. The people are welcoming and friendly.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

Editor's Note: This post was updated in July of 2026

FEW CRUISE ports make such an impressive first impression as Funchal, the capital of Madeira. Surrounded by lush green mountains that rise dramatically from the sea, this welcoming city blends centuries of Portuguese history with breathtaking natural beauty. Whether you spend your day wandering the cobblestone streets of Old Town, sampling local specialties at the market, riding the cable car into the hills, or just enjoying the waterfront promenade, Madeira rewards with unforgettable scenery and a relaxed island atmosphere.

BEGIN YOUR Madeira outing in Funchal with its gorgeous flora and fauna. Climb from sea level to 6,000 feet and peer down at the ocean below. Stop for a beer or glass of wine and watch the ocean.

Make time for the war memorials and a stroll through lush botanical gardens.

But don't miss a chance to drive up that splendid coastline, with views to stagger.

Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers above the Funchal coastline, enjoying the view.

IT'S EASY to fall in love with Madeira for its variety: ragged forests, pretty beachfront, fine art, culture of many kinds including music and fine food. You'll also be struck by an awareness of the island's stormy past.

MADEIRA tried to remain neutral in the great world wars, but because of Portugal's proximity, and the island's strategic location, the people  have lived with a sense of fear,  and determination to preserve their safe haven. To secure international support for its authority in Africa, Portugal entered the war in 1914 on the side of Britain and the Allies. Our guide described an incident of more than 100 years ago which people still recount and pass on to their children. On December 1916 during World War I, a German U-boat entered Funchal harbor on Madeira; it torpedoed and sank, creating havoc for days. Today's population includes thousands of Gibraltarians whose ancestors were shipped to Madeira in 1940 when it was feared Gibraltar would be attacked.

Time for a beer with a view of beautiful beaches. 

BRITISH PEOPLE have long loved Madeira, stemming from Britain's occupation after the Napoleonic Wars, a friendly occupation ending in 1814 when the island was returned to Portugal.

Brits and many others are attracted to the dramatic landscape created by volcanic eruptions from the Atlantic seafloor. The layers of lava eventually reached the sea surface and created the Madeira Archipelago -- beginning a mere 20 million years ago.  More recently -- about two million years ago -- the volcanic eruptions ended and seeds washed ashore. Birds followed and dined on the first plant growth, now beautiful, old-growth forests.

We enjoy the island for those forests and dramatic mountains,  balmy climate, and flowers of every shade. A fine old hotel, Reid's, is a fun splurge for a couple days.

Reid's Palace, a stately hotel, reigns as beloved by British people and other international travelers.

The people of Madeira enjoy plants and are expert cooks. Some restaurants have their own gardens.

UNTIL RECENTLY, exploring the island was arduous, but millions of dollars of infrastructure and road work have made its mountainous land and rugged coasts accessible. But Madeira has long been sought after for its fruit, flowers and temperate climate.  Its rough terrain didn't stop sailors of yore. Phoenician, Roman and North African explorers all reached the island, likely landing near the seaside town of Calheta on the southwest coast. There, we visited an impressive memorial bound to touch the heart of every viewer.  A stone wall reveals the outline of a soldier holding a child's hand with one hand and a gun in the other. Each of the figures is holding a rose and hundreds of small faces cover the remaining space. The memorial commemorates the "Overseas War," fought from 1961 to 1975. We were curious about this strange moniker.  The war has several  other names, too, all elaborate. Among those are:

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on the trail of food, history, art and music in Madeira.

The Portuguese Colonial War; the War of Liberation; the Angolan, Guinea-Bissau and Mozambican War of Independence. Our guide described it as "clashes between the Portuguese armed forces and the liberation movements of the colonies." These happened during Estado Novo, the Portuguese authoritarian regime 1933-1974.

THE PEOPLE  seem happy to be free of the yoke of a dictatorship and welcome tourists.  Flights to Madeira can be found for as cheap as $219 from Europe and $900 from the U.S. Ferries from the mainland are a great alternative, and one can take a car or bicycle on board and cross the sea in hours.

More information: visitmadeira.com

Although our visit to Madeira lasted only a few hours, it left us wanting to return for a longer stay. The island's stunning landscapes, friendly locals, beautiful gardens, and unique culture make it far more than just another cruise stop. If your itinerary includes Funchal, take the opportunity to explore beyond the pier you'll quickly discover why so many travelers consider Madeira one of the highlights of any Atlantic or European cruise.

"Keller and Cookie" wear leis presented to them by hosts at Hilton Waikoloa Village on The Big Island of Hawaii.

UP NEXT :  Lore of the lei. When one visits Hawaii, it is customary to wear a lei at some point during the visit. You might even be greeted by your host with a lei, or find one in your hotel room.  It symbolizes love and welcome, and is a friendly way to express love, friendship, celebration, sympathy, honor or greeting. Hawaiians consider the lei the symbol of Hawaii and the aloha spirit. In ancient Hawaii, wearing a lei represented wealth, royalty and rank. More about that soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com