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STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Sailing on the Californian is as close as I'll get to "going down to the sea in ships." Fortunately, we went "down" in the best sense of the word:  out into the Pacific Ocean and safely back. For this sailor -- with hundreds of hours on small sailing vessels and nearly 100 large-ship cruises -- the pride of San Diego's Maritime Museum feels like the real sailing deal. Getting the sails ready then putting them back after the sail is not for cowards or those afraid of heights! This beautiful 145-foot long vessel is the state's official tall ship and she was the jewel in our crown of a glittery day of touring the Maritime Museum.  The 1984 ship is built in the style of the famous cutters which patrolled California's coast during the 1849 era gold rush. My sailor beau, child of the sea since birth, encouraged the Californian's adventure sail, a four-hour journey aboard the ship he's admired since it was built. I'd not expected to be so thoroughly entertained, but the location is a lure I couldn't resist.  Moored along the waterfront on the Embarcadero, it is one of the delights of the venue. The museum  sports more than a dozen boats and ships, a nicely researched and well curated array of nautical paraphernalia in a traditional indoor museum, and plenty of action outdoors as "pirates" stroll and repairmen do their endless work. Cookie found the submarine claustrophobic. Among the treats and surprises:  a vintage upright piano, lovingly cared for and donated by a local family who documented its seafaring background aboard a ferry. We enjoyed a chocolate festival aboard the gorgeous ferryboat Berkeley, toured the Dolphin submarine (interesting for its design but too claustrophobic for this reporter), watched repairmen working on the tall ship Star of India, and the HMS Surprise, which has starred in several films, including "Pirates of the Caribbean." A motley but enthusiastic group of us -- writers, teachers, builders, students and seafaring tourists -- spent a couple hours at the other ships of the museum before boarding the one that actually took us out on the water. Then it was onto the Californian and out into the bay to help hoist the sails and sail the ocean blue.   Despite a bit of rain and the wind -- sailors love wind -- the sun shone enough to take the chill off the day, and the mostly volunteer crew did yeoman's job of entertaining us with trivia about sailor's food, gear, health and hygiene, the workings and responsibilities on ship. Of the ship's six massive sails (more than 7,000 square feet of canvas!), the unusual square sail was  Keller's favorite.  The launching, sailing and retrieving it -- watching all the work that goes into it -- thrilled him.  It took a half-dozen people to get her going -- two climbed up the rope ladder to the yard arm to undo her sheets.   The ship's cannons were blasted to welcome us back to shore! Nothing is boring aboard the Californian. And after our journey was over, four limber crew climbed up and helped tie her back. Not for sissies or victims of vertigo!  Adjusting her sails along the route took many people on both sides of the ship.   Sailing, and doing it right, is a labor intensive process. And safety is a concern, so our captain reminded us of where to stand and sit, lest we feel the wrath of the proverbial "boom." No injuries, no accidents, terrific fresh air! Keller was delighted to help keep the Californian sailing, since he has sailed for all his life and loves it! Most of the passengers were enthusiastic about helping, under the watchful eye of adept volunteers.  And when we returned to the harbor, we had the excitement of hearing and watching two of our cannons salute the shore and congratulate us on our safe return. The sound will shiver your timbers! The Californian, as a "newer, old style ship,"  is 140 tons, created in the style of her ancestors.  But whether actually vintage or not, the maintenance of the museum's vessels and keeping them all in good repair is a challenge akin to the endless painting of San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge.   The work is never done.  Moisture, salt, attrition and wear and tear create dust, rust and decay so the wood and metal are constantly being polished, scraped, shored up. One of the mates, Katharine, describes shipboard life as it might have been a couple centuries ago. The Californian is available for charters and school sails.  She even goes to the Channel Islands, including Catalina Island for a kayaking adventure. Others of the ships are able to be rented for special events.  The Berkeley, Star of India, Surprise and Californian all are available at various rates. The museum is sponsoring Pirate Days this weekend, two days of kid-friendly, fun filled events this Saturday and Sunday on San Diego Bay.  On tap are carnival games, re-enactors, giveaways and prizes, scavenger hunts and pirates of course. Ahoy, maties. Enjoy. And remember to explore, learn and live! More at www.sdmaritime.org or call 619 234-9153. COMING WEDNESDAY : San Diego is gearing up for a fabulous festival -- its 20th -- of Jewish history and culture, with plays, art, food and music centered around theater! And swinging Manhattan Transfer is still going strong, recording an album a year for 40 years, and delighting our audience at a recent Balboa Theatre performance, part of their current tour. What keeps this tightly knit quartet running and going strong?  A fabulous pianist is part of the answer. The group's enormous talent shines through, as individual singers and ensemble participants. www.whereiscookie.com

Ahoy, maties! A re-enactor tells tales of a sailor's life, impersonating explorer Juan Cabrillo, aboard San Salvador at Maritime Museum of San Diego.  GO DOWN TO THE SEA IN SHIPS AT A WORLD CLASS CALIFORNIA MUSEUM Christene "Cookie" Meyers and her brother Rick Cosgriffe aboard Pilot, which takes visitors on a fun harbor tour. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF  YOU WANT a taste of the sea, with the vessels which explored the world, you won't find a better place to indulge your sailor side than the San Diego Maritime Museum. The collection of boats, on San Diego's waterfront, is a treasure trove of all things nautical. The museum's enthusiastic volunteer force has spent thousands of hours developing a rare collection of vessels. So expansive and well curated is its collection that the facility enjoys a worldwide reputation.  Named one of the worldwide top three maritime museums, this one needs to be on your bucket list! Bruce Keller, lifelong sailor, and his first mate, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, delight in coming aboard Star of India. Moored along the waterfront on the Embarcadero, it is one of the delights of the city. The museum sports more than a dozen boats and ships and a nicely researched and well curated array of nautical paraphernalia in a traditional indoor museum. Then outdoors, there's action and entertainment as "pirates" stroll and repairmen do their endless work. San Diego's fine staff and volunteers are constantly restoring, maintaining and operating these historic vessels to insure that generations to come learn and enjoy. WE'VE MADE two visits in the last month -- showing off the wonders to family from Montana and friends from England. Both sets of visitors were impressed with the beautifully maintained collection of historic ships, including the world’s oldest active ship, the majestic Star of India. Venturing onto some of these ships and exhibits is part of the admission, and tactually stepping inside the vessels is the best way to actually understand the important role ships played in the settling of the world -- not just California. Star of India We always head first for Star of India, built in 1863. This stately ship -- aptly named -- is the oldest active merchant sailing ship in the world. The museum takes her out on fundraisers from time to time, and we enjoyed a sail on her many years ago -- fingers crossed for an encore as plans are announced. We took our British friends aboard the Star, with its beautiful wooden decks and English-related stories from her sailing days of yore. Star of India began life during the Civil War, in November of 1863. and her first voyages took her to India where she helped supply to England badly needed jute -- cotton being unavailable from the U.S. because of the war. All aboard! The ferry Berkeley has many lovely appointments, including stained glass windows, a beautiful bar, and nicely done displays of marine history. THE FERRY Berkeley is another treat, the first ship you'll enter after you leave the ticket booth. It's full of lore from those who spent time aboard this beautifully restored ferry, brought from the Bay Area. Among Berkeley's surprises: a vintage upright piano, lovingly cared for and donated by a local family.  A painter works on a wall inside the 1898 ferry, Berkeley, which was moved from the Bay Area. We enjoyed a chocolate festival aboard the gorgeous ferryboat Berkeley on one visit.  Another time, we toured the Dolphin submarine (interesting for its design but too claustrophobic for this reporter) Watched repairmen working on the tall ship Star of India, and the HMS Surprise, replica of a sturdy British frigate. She has starred in several films, including one of the "Pirates of the Caribbean" series and "Master and Commander."   DON'T FORGET the Californian, available for an actual sailing.  Built in 1984, she is crafted in the style of the famous cutters which patrolled California's coast during the 1849 era gold rush. Going aboard her is a real sailing adventure, an additional ticket. My sailor beau, child of the sea since birth, encouraged our Californian's sail, a four-hour journey aboard the ship he's admired since it was built. I was thoroughly entertained -- as close as I'll get to "going down to the sea in ships." Fortunately, we went "down" in the best sense of the word: out into the Pacific and safely back. Cookie found the submarine claustrophobic. Others love it. FOR THIS reporter-sailor -- with hundreds of hours on small sailing vessels and more than 125 journeys aboard cruise ships -- a visit to San Diego's Maritime Museum feels like the real sailing deal. We highly endorse a day of touring this gem.   Bruce Keller loves to talk about sailing, and major films shot at his hometown San Diego's fine Maritime Museum. BESIDES THE schooner Californian and historic Star of India, this world class museum offers other vessels to climb aboard or sail at specific times.   The San Salvador is a replica of a 1542 Spanish Galleon like the first European vessel to reach America's west coast. The Californian goes out on weekly, delightful sails which we've enjoyed and will be writing about again. She's a gorgeous, 145-foot long vessel and the state's official tall ship, a must-do sail for anyone grounded, like my partner, in maritime history and life on the water.    Although built fairly recently, in 1984, she is designed in the style of the famous cutters which patrolled California's coast during the 1849 era gold rush.  If you have a sailor in the family, a pair of tickets to the museum, or a Saturday sail on the Californian would be a  wonderful gift. More information: www.sdmaritime.org ; midway.org   ******************************************************************************************** UP NEXT: While we're in the neighborhood, the USS Midway Museum is right down the waterfront of San Diego. The enormous, historical naval aircraft carrier museum is also in downtown San Diego, at Navy Pier. The aircraft carrier has a proud history -- in the Gulf War and other conflicts --  and is worth a day's visit. way museum consists of the aircraft carrier Midway. The ship houses an extensive collection of aircraft, many of which were built in Southern California. It also has informative and fascinating tours, narrations, exhibits and an impressive outreach and education program which extends into the community and schools. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, theater, nature, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore aircraft on the USS Midway Museum downtown San Diego. That story is next up.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" An old-fashioned carriage ride around New York's Central Park is a wonderful treat in any season. An autumn visit is the best time, though, with the start of fall colors, fewer crowds and more calm. WE VISIT New York each autumn, and are excited to be able to continue this tradition as fall colors blanket a favorite city. This favorite city is always busy, fun and noisy, so don't expect an autumn visit to bring about miraculous quiet. You won't be strolling empty avenues and there are still plenty of traffic, dog walkers and street vendors. But the crush of summer crowds is over, nature's colors are spectacular, and temperatures are crisp, sunny, glorious. New York's Bow Bridge in Central Park is beginning to reveal glorious fall color. We recommend Central Park as first choice if you have only time for one outing. It offers prime spots to view changing colors -- like the Bow Bridge and Bethesda Terrace, But we also visit the spectacular High Line, and take a ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Fall colors are spectacular if you want to stroll the High Line, New York's novel repurposing of derelict raised railroad tracks. To experience the best of New York's autumn foliage, the High Line can't be beat. It is famous for its variety of natural foliage -- plants native to the area -- and hundreds of vibrant asters are abloom now and into mid-November. Other places in the city to catch fall's splendor are: The boat trip to the Statue of Liberty offers a pretty view of fall colors along the shore, then a view of the imposing Statue of Liberty, here enjoyed by Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. Prospect Park for its magical atmosphere. Other top spots in the area include the "Top of the Rock" which gives a splendid overview of all the city's color, New York Botanical Garden which puts on a fine fall foliage display, Wave Hill in the Bronx, and Brooklyn Botanic Garden. For a mix of nature and city views, try Brooklyn Bridge Park and Little Island.  We recommend cityPASS for exploring this and many other fabulous cities at great savings. To book or check out cityPASS  @citypass *************** UP NEXT : Halloween fun and religious holidays converge, overlap and blend this time of year. We take readers to Mexico and Europe for Day of the Dead celebrations, All Saints Day, and other seasonal celebrations, including favorite U.S. Halloween with its traditions. Halloween is celebrated in many European cities, partly to entertain U.S. guests, and because it's a fun way to involve staff. Here, the lobby of Rome's Waldorf Cavalieri is decked out with pumpkins carved by personnel.

Editor's Note: This story was written a few years before Meyers and Keller were married in a pop-up ceremony during a family reunion in her native state, Montana. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS: VINTAGE and BRUCE KELLER The famous photo taken on VJ Day at Times Square,1945, inspired the "Kiss" sculpture that inspired this column. Top photo: Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers on a date in San Diego. THIS VALENTINE'S  week, with "The Kiss" statue back in San Diego, I'm taking a cue from a holiday at the other end of the year, Thanksgiving. How fortunate am I to have had three great loves. True, I lost two much loved husbands to illness. "The B Boys," as my baby sister Robbie called them, were Bruce and Billy. No one thinks her love will drop dead.  If I'd known  two  husbands would die and disappear from the planet but not my heart, would I have said "I do" twice? I would. Damn straight. Better to have loved and lost (and other time- honored cliches.)  Besides, I'm one lucky dame. Lucky for having known these two magnificent men.  That we bumped into one another at all is a wonder.  That we romped, read, shared, danced, dined, traveled and teased together is a miracle.  The "glass half empty" take would have me draped in black, a grumpy dowager in a wicker rocker tossing stale bread to birdies. Growing fat on cheesecake and cheap sherry. Reading Jane Austen for the fifth time. BUT I AM  a Montana girl.  I got back on the horse. First in 1992 after losing Bruce to an aneurysm.  Next in 2005 after Billy died of cancer. The first horse took me to Billy.  The second led me to Bruce William Keller. A little history: "Husband the first," as my family says, was Bruce Kemp Meyers, born in Ohio, only son of an only son of an only son. "Husband second not lesser" was William Dennis Jones, native Arizonan, also an only son. The writer with her first husband, Bruce Kemp Meyers, on the QEII. Bruce and I were married in the shadow of Woodstock and the Moon Landing.  We courted at a nightclub atop the Billings Rimrocks, shared a passion for cruising, hiked the Rockies, toured Europe multiple times on Eurail passes, took harrowing trips in his forest green Road Runner.  He drove "the green beast" (my nickname, not his!) 30 or 40 miles over the speed limit, including a two-day marathon to Cleveland one sweltering summer, making it to the shores of Lake Erie in 30 whiz-bang hours.   WE HAD nearly 23 action-packed, theater-filled years together, traveling the world, acting and singing in plays and musicals to save a vintage Montana theater.  He was my poetry professor and I learned the craft from him. He played a mean Gibson guitar -- blues, country and original songs -- while I played saxophone, piano, violin and harmonica.  He was a brilliant photographer, illustrating my travel articles as Bruce Keller now does.  Billy wrote poetry, too, and was a fine watercolor painter.  Where Bruce encouraged my poetry, Billy urged me to take up the brushes.  We booked back-roads bike and painting treks in New England and conducted poetry and painting workshops in Provence, Tuscany and the Caribbean.  Both Bruce and Billy were fabulous dancers. Lucky for this lifelong hoofer. The writer with her second husband, William Dennis Jones, in Portugal. The pair commuted between Arizona and Montana for 11 years before Billy's death in 2005. Billy and I had half as long as Bruce and I -- just over 11 years together, also traveling, painting, cruising the world, writing music together. Making one another laugh.      IN FREQUENT  forays into the literature of grief, I read that if one has experienced a long successful relationship, one usually yearns for another. I have the ashes of "the B Boys" in two beautiful porcelain urns created by my brother Rick. I'm in no hurry to fill a third urn. There may not be a third "I do".  But I have a delightful partner in Bruce William Keller. If you've noticed the repetition of certain names, you're a savvy reader.       The writer, left, and her partner, Bruce William Keller. Secure in Cookie's love for him, he realizes that her two late husbands, Bruce and Billy, are part of her life. Keller's full handle contains the names of both husbands.  Thus the "Keller" moniker. Or "Bruce the Second" as the clan says. Thank goodness his last name is a sensible two syllables, not some six-syllable, multi-consonant, tongue-tying moniker. When we were introduced in 2007, I nearly fainted.  "Really? Your first name is really Bruce?" I sputtered. "And your middle name is William. You're kidding." Cautiously, he confirmed this double irony. My knees buckled.  Noticing my pallor and collapse in the nearest chair, he asked politely why his perfectly decent first and middle names upset me so. I told him. "Well, it looks as if Bruce and William are both taken," he opined. "Keller sounds great to me." Cookie, Keller sailing -- he accompanies her to the theatre; she learned to sail. WHAT A GUY!  The rest is history. My family adores Keller.  None of us will forget our time with Bruce or Billy.  But this smart, secure fellow stepped into two tall shadows and made his own place in our hearts. While Bruce and Billy were professional writers -- a college professor and film critic -- Keller is an oceanographer and chief building contractor.  He creates art from lumber, paint and a vivid blend of imagination and horse sense. We sail Mission Bay together.  We've been to Europe many times and have more trips planned.  We explored the Middle East, where he spent two years diving and researching on the Red Sea. We've cruised the Caribbean, Far East and South America. We've collaborated on travel and arts articles. His gorgeous photos illustrate this website!  He has his painter mother's eye for composition and color. He is kind, compassionate and loves yorkies Nick and Nora.  And, yes, he loves to dance, too! KELLER IS responsible for getting my novel, "Lilian's Last Dance" out of a dusty box of floppy discs and onto bookshelves. Keller's part in Cookie's novel Taking a page from that great guru of the '70s, Baba Ram Dass, I'm trying to "Be Here Now."  To be grateful for my health, loved ones, friends around the world and this engaging man.  To appreciate the moment  -- right now, a splendid, sun-dappled San Diego afternoon with hummingbirds out the window and Yorkies at my feet.      WHAT ARE  the odds I'd find a third guy willing to see eight plays in five days with me?  We'll be soaking up a theater marathon later this month at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, the puppies in tow, the dog-friendly Ashland Springs Hotel home for five days of play-going, hiking and enjoying ethnic food in this lovely southern Oregon village. Love is larger than life in "The Kiss," whose arrival in San Diego inspired an homage to three men  Cookie has loved.       When "The Kiss" is dedicated in San Diego this Saturday, I'll be there.  This new bronze, inspired by the famous 1945 Life magazine photo of a sailor kissing a nurse, tells me that plenty of people out there want to honor romance and keep it alive.  The 10 a.m. ceremony will dedicate the bronze, and acknowledge us sentimental San Diegans who chipped in over $1 million after an earlier, much loved statue was returned to its owner. Keller and I will be holding hands, maybe having a wee smooch ourselves! Coming Saturday :   A tale of a beloved mother and sister love set against a rollicking European tour at   whereiscookie.com We publish each weekend, remembering to explore, learn and live!

Fabulous dancing marks "The Empire Strips Back," in San Diego. Here, Chewbacca and Han Solo dress the stage in a wonderful dance. It's  one of the highlights of an action packed, unauthorized burlesque parody of the "Star Wars" trilogy. It is playing through April 30 in San Diego. --(Photo Courtesy of The Empire Strips Back ) 'STAR WARS' HIP, NEW PARODY FEATURES COMEDY, BURLESQUE, SEXY DANCING AS FANS CHEER ON BELOVED CHARACTERS   Emcee Eric Newton provides "adults only" banter and slick intros, with clever commentary and a dramatic sweeping cape. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and Craig Ridgwell (and courtesy Lucasfilm/20th Century Fox) Hans Solo and Chewbacca from the 1977 film. The parody faithfully recreates familiar characters and their costumes. THE FORCE  was with us -- and "the farce" paid a visit, too -- in a fun, hip, entertaining parody of the wildly successful "Star Wars" films. We settled into comfy chairs in a "pop up" San Diego theater, for a sexy, energetic and affectionate burlesque redo of one of the film industry's most successful endeavors.   The crowd whooped and hollered at a risqué reinvention of the 1977 box office block buster and its spinoffs. We were ringside at "The Empire Strips Back" with pop music, props and puppets in a perfect, fun adult entertainment. You'll find plenty of sexual inuendo as the successful romp plays San Diego, the latest of a dozen major Australian and U.S. cities to feature this engaging, original show. It's selling out every venue it plays, and just finished SRO runs in San Francisco and Los Angeles. A half-dozen sexy dancers appear as Snowtroopers, in homage to "The Empire Strikes Back," released in 1980. The show takes its moniker from that chapter of the "Star Wars" oeuvre.  ONE NEED NOT be a "Star Wars" fan to enjoy the show.  We'd both seen the original -- I covered the 1977 world premier -- so we had an affection for the larger-than-life characters and storyline. The audience was mostly people half our age -- hip folks and sci-fi nerds not yet born when the first movie was released. But they knew the characters, perhaps better than the older fans did. Everyone loved the show. One longtime lover of the series told us at intermission that although she considers herself a purist, she thoroughly enjoyed this pleasing new parody -- even though it has little to do with the original story. IF YOU LOVE  colorful characters and over-the-top costumes, beautiful lighting and terrific dancing, the show is sure to have you laughing and enjoying. It is a stripped down, dressed up, fast paced parody of the beloved trilogy.  Jabba the Hutt gets huge applause at "The Empire Strips Back." The fun begins before you enter the auditorium when ushers direct you to your seats with their lightsabers. The delightful emcee, Eric Newton, opens the show with a comely nymph from another galaxy gyrating, smiling inviting us in. A full bar does booming business, enhancing cheers, whoops and whistles from the full house. The fun tone is set as Eric takes center stage to introduce each fast moving act. Sultry, sexy dancers in beautifully lit sequences delight sell-out audiences at a pop-up theater venue in San Diego. A captive Princess Leia moves sexily in a bikini to Nine Inch Nails’ "Closer." R2D2 does a cute cameo as a space pimp, making the heavens rain by ejecting wads of cash to the delight of the well lubricated audience. Sexy stormtroopers stomp and grind to a pounding White Strips tune, "Seven Nation Army." A gigantic Jabba the Hutt has the audience giggling and cheering as he gyrates, smiles and leers. A lightsaber has so much power that its bearer must strip.  There's a stunning dance number by an Olympic style gymnast as Han Solo with an endearing Chewbacca the Wookie. Their sweet, energetic dance has the audience on its feet -- goths and nerds alike. Fun technical effects include moody lighting. PREPARE YOURSELF for some seriously sultry Stormtroopers, an alluring Boba Fett, tempting Twi'leks, a delightfully indifferent Taun Taun, sophisticated Skywalker, Droids aplenty and -- as they say in Vaudeville, "all that and more." Creator Russall S. Beattie is the muse behind this unauthorized burlesque parody which originated   in Australia. The fact that Lucas and Disney haven't endorsed the sell-out production doesn't phase the crowd.  Our Saturday night audience was in a "Star Wars" frenzy, clapping, shouting, cheering for two hours. During the 15-minute intermission, the lobby did a booming business on $14 wine and various souvenirs and paraphernalia.  Once you get your tickets, you'll enter the world of parody and fun at a new pop-up venue. CREATOR BEATTIE'S  imagination is limitless.  The "adults only" caveat comes for suggestive dancing, bawdy sketches and Eric's lively, x-rated emcee banter. The special effects are fascinating and larger than life, a la that gigantic Jabba the Hutt creature, a wondrous, on utter yet endearing arrogance. An accomplished ensemble plays   UP NEXT:   Heading into Katoomba town, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller are just off the train and off to their hotel. Come with us to explore Katoomba, Australia, in all its majesty. From the wonders of Scenic World, to fine dining, a historic rail station and enticing boutiques, this quiet little town near Sydney, Australia, is in another world. A world class inn, Hotel Mountain Heritage, offers spectacular Blue Mountain views and a terrific restaurant. If you're looking for unique surroundings, friendly people, ethnic food and lovely lodging near beautiful Jamison Valley, don't miss Katoomba.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com

CHIEF JOSEPH HIGHWAY PROVIDES THRILLS, PANORAMIC VIEW OF SUNLIGHT BASIN  AFTER CLIMB UP SPECTACULAR BEARTOOTH PASS The aptly named Sunlight Basin is aglow in autumn as the colors change and the air grows crisp and cool. Keller and Nick and Nora pause for a picnic with view near Sunlight Bridge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE  you'd never been to the northern Rockies. What would you expect? Stunning mountains, clouds out of a Hallmark card display, guest ranches that remind of the 1950s TV shows. It's all there in the wonders of the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, which offers motorists unforgettable scenery and an opportunity to commune with nature from a bird's eye view. WE TOOK two of the country's most beautiful drives in a three-day period. Chief Joseph, a great Nez Perce peace maker, gave the highway its name. The Bear's Tooth, directly left of center, gives the famed highway its name. The Beartooth Pass with its wondrous and harrowing hairpin turns, glaciers -- even in August -- and pristine lakes and mountain streams. Then after a couple days R&R at Hunter Park Ranch, we headed out the  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway with its eye-popping bridge. The Beartooth road, called by the late CBS newsman Charles Kuralt, "the most beautiful drive in America," is known ats the Beartooth Scenic Highway.  Lakes, granite peaks and the famed "Bear's Tooth," from which the mountain range and then the highway took their names. Sunlight Bridge over sunlight Creek on the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway offers a breathtaking view into the gorge. Then Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Highway is Wyoming Highway 296. Guide books refer to it as the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Named after the great Nez Perce Indian leader it follows the route the chief took in 1877 when he led his people out of Yellowstone National Park and into Montana.  Their goal was to flee the U.S. Cavalry and escape into Canada.  The great chief surrendered to U.S. General Nelson A. Miles in the Bear Paw mountains of northern Montana. His eloquent speech has been often quoted: "Hear me, my chiefs:  My heart is sick and sad.  From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."   This beautiful route honors Joseph as it winds through the Shoshone National Forest and Absaroka Mountains, finally passing through the unfortunately named Dead Indian Pass. The Pollard Hotel features a lively menu befitting its history. MANY PEOPLE like to take the Beartooth Pass from Red Lodge, stay a few days in Cooke City, then wend a leisurely way out the Chief Joseph Highway.   We went from Hunter Peak Ranch into Cody, then back out the Chief Joseph route and on back to our corner of the Beartooths through Bridger and into Rockvale near Laurel, back to Absarokee and on home up the West Fork of the Stillwater.  A breathtaking few days of   spectacular autumn-colored scenery.  THE 46 MILES  of the Chief Joseph drive includes one of the most awesome bridges in this part of the country.  Both cars and pedestrians can transit the bridge, with very little separation between the two lanes.  I passed on walking across, owing to lifelong vertigo, but Keller and the Yorkies rose to the occasion. And returned safely while I gazed at the wonders -- along with a dozen view-inspired motorcyclists.  COMING UP:   We continue our autumn odyssey with a look at Red Lodge and the Pollard Hotel, where a menu fit for kings and cowboys, royals and rodeo queens awaits. We infuse our travelogues with a sense of fun and adventure and hope that conveys itself to you! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

The view from our room at the lovely Ostello del Castello, where we spent a few peaceful nights before boarding Bernina Express for a dazzling journey from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland. HISTORIC, PICTURESQUE TIRANO HAS MUCH TO OFFER: A CHARMING HOTEL, FINE DINING, WINERIES, MUSEUMS, GORGEOUS VIEWS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU WON'T  find a more amiable and accommodating host than Andrea, owner of Ostello del Castello, a lovely little inn in Tirano, Italy. The charms of hotel Ostello del Castello include great views of the mountains and a decor reflecting both new and old. And you won't find a more picturesque and friendly village with artful shops, delightful eateries, a knock-out mountain setting and easy access to the Bernina Express rail adventure. Bruce Keller, Andrea Gusmeroli and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at Andrea's hotel in Tirano. The host's helpful and welcoming nature is what we remember most about our visit to his 200-year old converted farm house. "Do you own it?" I asked, over a generous breakfast of fruits, cereals, pastries, meats and cheeses. "Well, yes, I do -- with the help of the bank," he winked. About to enjoy a leisurely meal at the artful Restaurant Paravicinni, with engaging artwork and fine service. ANDREA Gusmeroli and his lovely hotel and staff enhanced our stay at every turn. The inn's trademark is old world hospitality extended by  genuinely helpful and pleasant people.  We noticed this from the first afternoon when his assistant arranged a taxi. It was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived after a long day of travel. We'd begun our day in Rome, on to Milan then a train change and at last Tirano.  Delicious salads include homemade wheat and sourdough rolls, with tasty farm fresh vegetables and herbs. So we were tired and didn't relish walking the half-mile on cobblestone streets with four bags from a two-month trip, and a full backpack to boot. After we rested, we asked for pointers on a nearby restaurant. We were steered down the easy hill past neatly kept homes bedecked with flowers and sporting vegetable gardens. Our destination was the fabulous Restaurant Paravicini. Both a local favorite and popular with tourists, the eatery offers tasty regional favorites. We tried excellent spaghetti with shrimp, and a rare steak and potatoes. Our pretty salad came with fresh herbs from the garden and a helpful staff served a crisp local white wine and Keller's faux beer. He pronounced it delicious, an Italian choice, Peroni, which became a favorite. The classy eatery features  cave-like rooms with vaulted ceilings and a handsome, well stocked wine-cellar.  Local meats are expertly prepared with, of course, delectable pasta. WE'D WALKED  up the inn's patio in late afternoon so didn't notice the tiny lights. Later, at dusk, they twinkled to welcome us back. Then, with a view of  mountains in moonlight, we settled into a comfy bed with a down comforter for one of the best night's sleep of our long trip.  Tirano is in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, population 9,053, adjacent to the Switzerland-Italy border. The river Adda flows through town center. Here are a few pointers to enhance your visit:  * Piazza Cavour. It's a charming square  in the heart of Tirano. Cafes, shops, people watching. Fun  place.  Enjoying the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, during time in northern Italy. * The Church of Madonna di Tirano. This Roman Catholic church dates to the 1500s with a bell tower and ornate sculpture-lined interior. We thought it an enchanting combination of Tuscan, Lombard and Venetian architecture. * The Tirano Railway Station is where you'll go to board the Bernina Express or "Trenino del Bernina." The flashy red train connects Tirano with St. Moritz, climbing the spectacular Alps without the use of the rack. It is an  engineering jewel of the Rhaetian Railway and in 2008 became part of the UNESCO Heritage.    For a charming B&B experience with an amiable host and spectacular mountain views: www.ostellotirano.it/booking To book the Bernina Express: www.berninarailway.com UP NEXT:  Montana's Tippet Rise Art Center opened the 2024 season with a flourish.  Three standing room only concerts featured world renowned musicians and an internationally known mezzo-soprano, plus a pop up family concert  delighted hikers, picnickers and others who happened to be at the arts center. More on this unique art-music-nature venue which is rapidly being included on thousands of peoples' bucket lists. It's no wonder performers from the world's great concert halls love the tranquility and beauty of Montana after the crush and pressure of concertizing and the rigors of hectic scheduling and constant travel. Take time to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Yevgeny Sudbin and his gifted children played piano duets as well as a violin piece Sunday at Tippet Rise, where the 2024 season is underway.

When Cookie first set eyes on this bridge -- one of several on King's Walkway, not far from Malaga  -- she nearly turned back..... ...but Cookie persisted and joined Bruce Keller and our amiable Viator guide Jose to scale the walkway and survive to climb again. Kings Highway hike near Malaga We recommend the fun and safety of Viator's tour of this astonishing place. RECOVERING COWARD FINDS HER METTLE TESTED  HIGH ABOVE THE TREES IN SOUTHERN SPAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Relaxing on a lovely train ride from Malaga, enroute to the village of El Chorro, Cookie anticipates the climb. It was not going to frighten me. I could do it without shaking hands..... Thousands have climbed it through the years. Come on, Cookie, calm down.... When something frightens me, I try to approach it logically and overcome my fear. In the case of Spain's famed Caminito Del Rey, "King's Walkway," I considered this fact: it has been safely climbed for more than a year since it re-opened in 2015. I also considered why it closed after nearly a century:  five walkers plunged to their deaths between 1999 and 2000 when the eye-popping paths and bridges fell into disrepair. Cookie and Jose enter a cave leading to the start of the famous walkway. Still, we would climb with a skilled guide. Jose, an anthropologist, historian and native Spaniard, is an accomplished climber and hiker. He had navigated the pathway dozens of times. Jose helps suit up smiling Cookie up with hard hat and hair net. THE TRAIN RIDE through the lovely Spanish countryside took us in a few relaxing hours from beautiful Malaga, where we spent an enchanting week, to picturesque Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, Marbella, Ronda, Ardales and El Chorro, where we met our guide for a half-hour drive to the climb.  The narrow gorge is actually in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga. We knew from research that we would wear hard hats and hair netting and that we must not have a fear of heights (I lied -- I suffer from vertigo.) My climbing partner and photographer, Bruce Keller, is unafraid.  He is a scuba diver, water skier, hiker, climber -- adept at navigating the unknown -- both literally and figuratively. Only on the train did he tell me that the climb was closed for 14 years, with a multi-million dollar "redo" and that many consider it "the world's scariest walkway." I FELT LIKE  a cowardly extra in an Indiana Jones film as we bent down to climb through a cave that would lead us to the entrance of Caminito del Rey. No turning back now... Grateful for strong reinforcement along much of the walkway, Cookie still found it reassuring to touch the stone walk to her right or hang on to her guide Jose. The walkway has held a mythic history in Spain, since 1901 when construction began -- finishing in late 1905. Its original purpose was practical -- energy related -- not designed to provide entertainment or recreation.  The project was conceived to provide a means for workers to reach an important pair of hydroelectric power plants located at waterfalls along the route. It would also provide a way to transport supplies and equipment. A breathtaking view of the hillside is available -- if one can look down. ITS NAME CAME about in 1921 when King Alfonso XIII braved the Caminito for the inauguration of a dam at the site. A decade later, Alfonso was forced into exile when the second Spanish Republic was declared in 1941. But the clever name stuck and Alfonso's great-grandson, the current King Felipe, cut the ribbon on the new improved Caminito when it opened March 28 of 2015. The king, son of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, posed for photos on the walkway.   So I would follow these royal footsteps. A pair of  Swiss walkers pauses. The dam was built to provide water to Malaga's residents.  Climbers killed on the walkway are honored. Nearing the end of the walk, Cookie looks straight ahead -- not down. Keller is calm. AS WE THREE WALKED  -- I with one hand on the rock wall and the other on the steel bars much of the time Jose described the evolution of the walkway.  Before closing for the   "redo," it was a thrill for daredevils such as Jose and his college buddies. When he told me the reason for closing the walkway for 15 years, I nearly turned back.  (It's not a roundtrip -- there's one way in, one way out -- so this would have been inconvenient.) Five people fell to their deaths in 2001 -- three of them careless thrill-seekers forcing a redo of the three-plus kilometer trail and bridges. We did encounter one 60-something woman going against foot traffic, turning back only a fifth of the way in. "Demasiado para mi," she muttered, head shaking.  ("Too much for me.") Despite this unnerving meeting, we pressed on. "You'll be fine," Jose reassured, suggesting I hang on to him for strength. THE NEW  walkway is sturdy and industrial strength, a massive effort of aluminum and stainless steel attached to vertical walk face. Skilled mountain climbers were hired for the construction, swaying in the breezes more than 100-plus meters above land and water. The renovation weighed in at over 3 million Euros with the Andalusian government and city of Malaga footing the bill. They hoped for a major tourist attraction and that is materializing. The tourism bureau touts extra safety measures. This recovering coward was grateful for every one. And thankful for a tall glass of white wine after in the nearby tavern. You may book the walk for a full day, including lunch, with pick-ups and transfers, or just the walk. To book: www. smartholidaysandalusia .com ; www. viator. com UP NEXT: Malaga's magnificent Museuo Automovilistico is a wonderland of gorgeous autos and vintage finery, equally eye-catching. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us late Friday  when we post for each weekend.

DANISH ARCHITECT UTZON'S VISIONARY BUILDING IS A TRUE MASTERPIECE Tourists from around the globe tour Sydney Opera House, enjoy tastings and see plays, dance and concerts in many venues. After the tour, enjoy dumplings, oysters,  shrimp; Below, the "sails" from under them. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT RANKS  with the architectural wonders of the world. The Sydney Opera House is like no other building. Famous for its gorgeous shells -- resembling the ship sails which skirt and shift in the ocean below -- the building is far  more than an opera house, although grand opera is performed there. It's actually a complex of theaters, rehearsal halls and more than 1,000 rooms of varying shapes and sizes. Built on 4.5 acres for $103 million over a period of decades, the grand building is the product of a design competition in 1957.  The winner was Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who imagined a "living sculpture" that could be viewed from any angle, by land, sea or air -- with the roofs as a "fifth facade." A windy day didn't stop Cookie and Keller. Here, to the right of the Sydney Opera House, you can see the arc of the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge. The story is that the bold and controversial concept came to Utzon while he was peeling an orange, because its "sections" resemble pieces of the fruit.  This may be only myth, but it makes a good story. Red steps lead to the Joan Sutherland Theater, one of the great opera houses in the world, named after the great diva who was born in Sydney in 1926. The famed soprano died in 2010.   WHAT IS  true is that Utzon labored for years to bring the project to fruition, resigned in frustration, then after many more years was coaxed back. Other facts: * An Aussie design team finished the interior,  The completion of the pre-cast roof panels and "sails" was difficult to master. * The opera theater, one of several performance halls, has had horses, donkeys and chickens on the stage.  The "Aida" production, however, used cut-out elephants. (A veteran guide told us that a chicken fell into the orchestra pit once, during "Boris Gudonov." The violinist shrieked but soon resumed playing.) * Wedding receptions and parties can be staged in the complex. * Australian born Joan Sutherland, a globally famous soprano, loved the venue and was honored a couple years after her 2010 death in the renaming of the opera house. * This reporter saw the great tenor Luciano Pavarotti perform there in the 1990s.  Such memories. We loved our two tours, which included a stroll around the set for "Switzerland," a hit mystery play.   We marveled at the vaulted ceilings and pillar-free chambers. We felt elegant in the custom-made white birch chairs. And we feasted on sushi, prawns, dumplings and salmon as the sun set over Sydney Harbor. NEXT UP: Jeffrey Rockwell plays lively piano, Kevin Bailey is the hard-drinking private eye, and Sharon Reitkerk is "The Blonde" in "Gunmetal Blues" at North Coast Repertory Theatre. The latest hit at North Coast Repertory Theatre is a sultry, slinky, fast-paced and amusing musical.  "Gun Metal Blues" lovingly spoofs the 1940s film noir classics we watch again and again.  Three gifted actors play out the action in the seedy Red Eye Lounge, where a jaded piano player, Buddy, guides us through the convoluted action with plenty of laughs and some beautiful tunes. See why we say "bravo," for this fresh, funny production.  Enjoy, learn and live! Please visit us Wednesdays and weekends and tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com

Architect's imagination and reverence for nature highlight his 'La Pedrera,' in Barcelona STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a moment of reflection outside Gaudi's Casa Mila, or "La Pedrera." The curved "attic" of Casa Mila is a museum on its own, with drawings, exhibits and models showing the profound influence nature had on Gaudi's life's work. WHEN THE brilliant architect Antoni Gaudi was struck by a tram on a pleasant June morning in 1926, he had no identification on his body. He rested unknown in a morgue for several days while officials tried to identify him. The great man was walking to his daily confessional at a nearby church when tragedy befell him. When it was discovered that he was an internationally known architect -- one of the city's proudest sons -- he was mourned for weeks. Today, he is still celebrated as a genius.  His work is acclaimed for its grace, originality and connection to nature, evident in its nods to the sea and its creatures, and to birds, flowers, trees, and all living things. WE SPENT a recent week marveling at Gaudi's wondrous accomplishments. He viewed the natural world as perfect, a creation from which he drew his inspiration. This connection is visible in all his work but critics believe it is most present in his masterpiece, Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia. The cathedral has been in constant development since its foundation was laid in 1883.  Its completion -- many times delayed -- is now scheduled for 2026, on the 100th anniversary of the great artist's death. MUCH OF Gaudí's career was occupied with the construction of the Sagrada Família, his "over the top" cathedral where pineapples and the Virgin Mary peacefully coexist. It's difficult to name a favorite of Gaudi's magnificent buildings.  Tourists flock to his famous Sagrada, but grand as it is, it is not our favorite of his works. We've spent several relaxing afternoons at his fanciful Park Güell, and at the better part of a day each at two stunning homes he designed in downtown Barcelona: Casa Milá and Casa Batlló, an important pair of modernist buildings.  Looking to the sky, as he often way, Antoni Gaudi celebrated light and nature in his magnificent open-air view skyward. This sixth visit to Barcelona, we concentrated on Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, which means "stone quarry" and celebrates Gaudi's Catalan heritage and love of landscape. Known today as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism, Gaudí is honored for his individuality and his unique style. Most of his most famous creations are in Barcelona, one of the reasons we return so often. Nearby Casa Batllo's roof is a fanciful place, representing scales on a dragon's back.     Above, a storage closet in La Pedrera gives insight into the life of a wealthy family in Barcelona nearly a century ago. At right, the life of Gaudi is shared in books in many languages, with t-shirts and art for sale, too. Some think the shapes of Gaudi's top floor art in Casa Mila represent the scales of lizards or creatures of the sea, serpents or mythical beings. LA PEDRERA - - meaning “the stone quarry” because of its unusual rough-hewn appearance, is more commonly called Casa Milá and is one of Barcelona’s most popular modernist buildings. UNESCO recognized it as a World Heritage site in 1984. Built between 1906 and 1912, the magical structure came to life when clients gave him a limitless budget and reign to do something "wonderful and different." It housed several apartments and  was  Gaudí’s last private residential design. Many consider it the most imaginative house in the history of architecture, one which continues to influence architects today. It is truly more a sculpture than a building. The façade is a varied and harmonious mass of undulating stone that, along with forged iron balconies, explores the irregularities of the natural world. Other Spanish artists gained fame in their experimental work, too. MANY PEOPLE wonder if Gaudi and Salvador Dali were friends, and if they endorsed one another's work. The much older Gaudi was born in 1852 and Dali was born in 1904. One wonders, then, if either man knew Picasso, born in 1881, between the two other famed artists.  The rooftop of Casa Mila. While Gaudí and Dali were buddies, often complimenting each other's work, Picasso and Gaudí did not see eye to eye. Both made art their life's work, but while Gaudi didn't criticize fellow artists and visionaries, Picasso spent a lot of time dissing the Sagrada Família, Gaudí's magnum opus. Gaudi didn't return the barbs, remaining a man of deep faith, honoring the credo of tolerance and forgiveness.   He was in fact on his way to mass, his daily ritual, when he was struck by the tram. Only when his housekeeper reported him missing did officials figure out who he was. La Pedrera was fashioned into several apartments by Gaudi, and is now used for fundraisers and as a museum. Gaudi's architecture is distinctive in its use of curves inspired by his view of nature. GAUDI'S LIFE'S work is a celebration of nature and the natural world.  The only woman he loved, historians tell us, did not return his affections. (She was a divorced teacher whom he met during one of his early projects.) Much has been written about his art -- but there isn't much to tell about his personal life since he remained single and devoted his life to his art and private commissions. barcelonaturisme.com visitbarcelona.com Accomplished actor John Rubinstein endows his character, Dwight D. Eisenhower, with wit, intelligence and confidence in a stellar performance beautifully directed by Peter Ellenstein.   BEST BET:  A world premier in an intimate Los Angeles theater offers play lovers an engaging immersion in history via a close encounter with our 34th President. "Eisenhower:  This Piece of Ground" is Richard Hellesen's fascinating opus about a war hero turned world leader.  Tony award winning actor John Rubinstein endows Ike with humanity, humor and intelligence in this captivating one-man production at Hudson's MainStage Theatre.  Peter Ellenstein directs this graceful, amusing and informative immersion which explains why the five-star general is now regarded as a great president. More info: www.onstage411.com/eisenhower A Brazilian guide in Porto, Portugal, took us around the city to its bridges, museums, eateries and special unknown corners.  Tune in next week for "free tours" tips. UP NEXT : Free tours. From the far north of Europe to the southern reaches of Spain's Canary Islands, free tours are becoming the rage. Many cities around the world now offer no-fee walking and sightseeing tours.  The trend of ‘'free'’ walking tours began in Berlin in 2004 and has spread to over 40 cities around the world, including nearly every major tourist destination in Europe. We give pointers on finding them, and suggestions for tipping the well informed guides, who rely on and deserve generous gratuities. They live on our tips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for fresh spins on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie's favorite Thanksgiving meal is not turkey -- although it is available on cruise ships and in many hotels catering to Americans on Thanksgiving. It's rare lamb chops with asparagus, lentils and a balsamic drizzle. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAVEL IS FUN  for us, and no part of travel is more pleasurable than exploring the gastronomic pleasures of far-away places. Especially on holidays, a special meal is a highlight of the trip. We love watching what the locals order in European restaurants, and aren't shy about asking a fellow diner what that attractive offering on his freshly served plate is. A breakfast buffet in Tarragona, made a Thanksgiving morning special in Spain. HERE ARE  a few tips for dining abroad on Thanksgiving or any holiday. May they broaden your tastes -- and not your waistline -- without flattening your wallet, and make you a bit more adventuresome on the road.  * Use your concierge.  Hotels are proud of this amenity and the concierge is often the most knowledgeable person in the hotel when it comes to good places to dine and celebrate a holiday.  He or she will also know which places cater to locals, or where you might find other Americans -- whatever your preference. We prefer local favorites, not tourist traps. Cookie and Keller enjoy a leisurely Thanksgiving weekend lunch in Monterosso. It's not a holiday in Cinque Terre but they made it one by celebrating.  * We've found our most relaxing meals in Europe are off-season (before the Memorial Day holiday, when you can find succulent spring produce and Easter feasts, and after Labor Day through our Thanksgiving weekend which is not a holiday in many places.  You'll miss the huge crowds and find restaurants less busy and staff more accommodating.   In France, Italy and Spain in November, chefs, restaurateurs and key suppliers are not as taxed as in summer months when Americans flock to Europe. So October and November are our favorite times to be there. Much of Asia and Australia experience delightful weather then. * C check addresses and  opening-closing hours. If you have your heart set on a particular restaurant, make sure it is open! Consider bar food and appetizers instead of a full meal. A memorable Thanksgiving dinner can be enjoyed on a a cruise. Here, Amarylla, Ellen, Robbie and Christene celebrate on Celebrity's Century. * Keep an eye on key dates for religious festivals, public holidays, big  soccer and other sporting events. We also avoid places with televisions -- or you might find your bistro turned into a  World Cup screening room. Go back a street or two from the main drag. Look for an outing to make your Thanksgiving or other holiday special. Here we enjoyed a wine tasting with a sommelier in southern France. He gave tips and made reservations for a dinner later. We pay attention to street stalls and markets and look for menu items featuring those ingredients. *Cruises are a great place for holiday meals. They always celebrate our USA holidays with special foods, even if they aren't American based. Always ask your waiter to recommend your appetizer, entree and dessert.  He knows what the food looks like in the kitchen and what the chefs put their most energy into.  ************************************************************ UP NEXT: There's no place like London. That a line from a Sweeney Todd lyric in "Sweeney Todd," but it's a line we've uttered many times in visiting this exciting city. The English city dates back to Roman times, with a rich history and a terrible fire that nearly leveled the town. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and a many governments. It has survived war and political turmoil and we count it as a favorite city -- for its wonderful theater, neighborhoods and delightful mix of ethnic food. Westminster Abbey is a much photographed London building, scene of many historic events.

Flamenco dancers dazzle with their movements and hypnotic footwork. CENTURIES OLD DANCE TRADITION LIVES ON IN ENGAGING SPANISH VENUES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The swirling and twirling of scarves is part of the flamenco tradition. AS A YOUNG  bride on honeymoon in Granada, I witnessed my first flamenco dance. I was mesmerized. The dancers were a mix of ages and shapes, but all had the expressive moves down pat -- their arms and feet moving in time to the intricate footwork, shawls whipping around their bodies. From our center table in a small dimly lit cafe, we could see the facial expressions and drops of sweat. I pressed a flower that flew from the head of one of the dancers during an intricate move. Dancers take individual bows at the end of each piece. THE TIME  honored dance form became famous in Spain but reflects contributions from many other world cultures.  It usually features a solo performer, backed by musicians and sometimes a partner.  Hand clapping and that distinctive percussive footwork give flamenco its flair, enhanced by intricate hand, arm, and body movements.     Today's flamenco reflects music of Latin American, Cuban, African and Jewish traditions.  It was originally not set to music but was accompanied by emotional singing and clapping of hands called “toque de palmas." The company takes bows on stage, with the featured singer in the center here. IN OUR  annual forays to southern Spain, we always include at least one night of flamenco. On this most recent trip, we gilded the flamenco lily, choosing two very different cities and several venues to enjoy this integral part of Andalucian culture. Both Barcelona and Malaga offer fine flamenco options. One can find as many definitions of flamenco as there are tapas bars.  Most scholars agree that flamenco is composed of four elements: voice, or cante; dance, or baile; guitar, or toque, and "jaleo," which roughly translated means "hell raising."  Clapping, stomping, shouts of encouragement to the featured dancer convey the emotion of the numbers, often laments about life's sorrows and the human condition. Flamenco guitarists and rhythm makers are an integral part of every flamenco show. Dancers, singers and musicians share a final bow. One of our shows, "Encuentros en la cumbre del baile," or Encounters at the pinnacle of dance, featured two of Spain's most famous flamenco dancers, Miguel "El Rubio" and Palmoa Fantova, backed by Maria Carmona and Sara Barrero. Another show, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," promised to convey the mystery of flamenco's singing and poetry -- paying homage to Gypsy, Moorish, and Andalusian folklore. As our waiter said, "flamenco is an outcry, an expression of love and pain, or enjoyment and happiness.  It is meant to be felt, not necessarily understood." More information: to find flamenco on the web, google the city and flamenco:   flamencomalaga.com       flamencobarcelona.com   All aboard next week for tips on Eurail travel with our team, Cookie and Keller, exploring the world with enthusiasm. UP NEXT : Eurail was the way to see Europe for many young Americans in the 1970s. Our two young at heart travelers take to Eurail again, so all aboard with tips on seeing Europe anew again by train. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com