Cesar Manrique's beautiful concert hall was created in a volcanic cave. The native son's vision transformed his beloved island of Lanzarote in Spain's Canary Islands. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The first thing you notice about Lanzarote isn’t just the dramatic volcanic landscape it’s how seamlessly art lives within it. That’s no accident. Visionary artist César Manrique spent decades shaping the island into a place where nature and creativity coexist in perfect balance. Visiting Lanzarote isn’t just a beach getaway it’s a journey through a living gallery carved into lava and stone. Exploring his work is one of the best ways to experience Lanzarote not just as a destination, but as a carefully preserved work of art. Lanzarote's unique volcanic architecture inspired Cesar Manrique. One of the longest volcanic tunnels in the world, the Cueva de Los Verdes has been protecting locals on Lanzarote for centuries. It opened to the public in 1964 and may be toured. At picture's far right, Cookie aims her camera. THE BRILLIANCE of a single man is responsible for the unique artistic look of the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Cesar Manrique visionary, Renaissance man who transformed Lanzarote into the Canary Islands' most unique and interesting of the group Cesar Manrique was born nearly 100 years ago, in 1919, served in the Spanish Civil War, and took a trip to New York in the early 1960s that changed his life. Searching for "the real meaning of things," he found New York a place to indulge his artistic flights of fancy. He returned to Spain after a couple fertile years, lured to the U.S. by his cousin, Manuel Manrique, a New York psychoanalyst and writer. New York's artists, journalists, writers, and bohemians made an impact. So did the crowds, which he compared to rats and detested. Cesar Manrique's home, above, is nestled near huge aloe vera fields and incorporates Lanzarote's volcanoes. "Man was not created for this artificiality," he wrote. "We have an imperative need to return to the soil, to feel it, smell it." Aloe vera fields and Lanzarote's volcanoes near Manrique's home A TRUE visionary and by far Lanzarote's most famous citizen, Manrique was a painter, architect, interior designer, gardener, sculptor, activist and environmentalist. His imprint on his beloved birthplace is universally acknowledged. Our excellent Viator guide became teary-eyed describing his 1992 death -- ironically in an auto accident (he eschewed the increasing number of cars on his island). He was 73. His home is now a fascinating foundation in his name, and may be toured by the public. LIKE EVERYTHING Manrique created, it makes brilliant use of the natural world. Built in 1968 on top of a trail from a 1730 volcanic eruption, the home incorporates volcanic bubbles into a unique living space. The exterior is inspired by traditional Lanzarote architecture and the home incorporates the elements Manrique deemed essential for a well rounded life: conservation and study, artistic activity and cultural reflection. He also believed in respecting the natural environment and integrating it as artfully as possible into living space. His imagination was fueled and his vision shaped during his U.S. stay by both the artists he met and the crowds and congestion he avoided. 'WHEN I returned from New York, I came with the intention of turning my native island into one of the more beautiful places in the planet, due to the endless possibilities that Lanzarote had to offer," he wrote. Bruce Keller relaxes on a Lanzarote volcanic rock chair. This vision came true. It is impossible to imagine today's Lanzarote without Manrique. We paid homage to this brilliant man one full day's tour of his beautiful island. The Lagomar Bar, Restaurant and Museum is a popular place to watch Lanzarote's ocean, birdlife and sunsets. In the ancient capital of Villa de Teguise, we strolled charming churches and impressive monuments, then headed to spectacular island views from the Lagomar Museum and Bar. We explored another prime vantage point -- Peñas del Chach -- and visited an aloe vera plantation. At Jameos del Agua with its unique volcanic tunnel and caverns, we sat in on the end of a string trio's sound test in an inspiring underground concert hall designed by Manrique. It was a stunning experience and we hoped that the island's own maestro was listening. viator.com/tours/Lanzarote Cookie makes use of the aloe's healing juice, applying small cubes to her hands and face UP NEXT: "The Music Man" is one of America's classic musicals and a favorite of Cookie's and Keller's. Cookie was a young girl when she first saw the captivating story of a con man posing as a band leader. It swept her away -- along with Marian the Librarian, whom Harold Hill romances and finds himself changed. We attend the opening of this classic at Welk Resort Theatre. Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. And catch us each weekend for a novel approach to the arts and nature-driven travel. Welk Resort Theatre in northeast San Diego County, opens "The Music Man" tonight, for a long run through July 23. -- photo by Ken Jacques

This happy reveler resides in Harrah's, a popular New Orleans casino, completely decorated in Mardi Gras motif. Cookie and keller take time out from Carnival in Rio, for a water break with a new friend. LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL, BABY, WITH FUN, FUN, FUN TIMES GALORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Balloons, treats and masks mark carnival time in Rio. WE'VE ENJOYED FUN Mardi Gras in Germany, in Rio, in New Orleans and in our winter base here in San Diego. This year’s Mardi Gras comes just a few days before Saint Patrick's Day -- which we've had the pleasure of celebrating in Chicago, Dublin, and Butte, Montana! Humans, it seems, need to celebrate, whether in festivals marked by feathers, elaborate costumes, balloons, beads and booze -- or in parades, feasts and dancing. Mardi Gras signals that spring is coming and that frenzy -- after our brutal North American winter -- is underway. MARDI GRAS is one of the craziest and largest parties in the U.S., and no city takes Mardi Gras more seriously than New Orleans. Even during our visit two months ago, hotels were fully booked for this week. Every year, partygoers by the hundreds flock to New Orleans to partake of the floats, festivities and food, and leave their money and mark on the Big Easy. We were happy to find the city party-loving spirit intact, despite an arduous recovery from Hurricane Katrina. A Rio street vendor serves up a Mardi Gras coconut. MARDI GRAS means “Fat Tuesday” in French, and is observed in many places around the world, including Rio, which we also visited on an eye-opening Brazil trip. The day's origins are in medieval Europe and ancient Rome. Like Christmas, it has its roots in pagan traditions. Again, as with Christmas, religious leaders hedged their bets and let the pagas party and dance, incorporating pagan traditions into Christianity. EVENTUALLY, the celebration spread from Rome across Europe to the New World. Those party-loving southerners made Mardi Gras a legal holiday in Louisiana in 1875, where parades and celebrations continue right on through Ash Wednesday and Lent, past St. Patrick's Day and into Easter. Then it's spring and an excuse for more partying to July Fourth! WHILE MARDI Gras is not universally celebrated across the U.S. many cities and regions in the U.S. have flashy celebrations, because of the French, Spanish, and colonial influences through the settling years of their history. The earliest documented Carnival celebration in North America was on the west bank of the Mississippi river about 60 miles downriver from present-day New Orleans. THAT MARDI GRAS was March 3, 1699. In honor of this holiday, Iberville named the spot Point du Mardi Gras, or Mardi Gras Point. Other early celebrations occurred in Mobile, Biloxi, Pensacola and on the east coast in New York and Boston. Chicago has a rollicking Mardi Gras. The partying usually extends several days and has become known as "the Carnival season" a last hurrah before the days of penance observed by some between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday. CRUISE SHIPS celebrate Mardi Gras with all the trappings of land-locked revelry. The familiar traditions include bead throwing, mask wearing and coconut painting, all widely practiced today.The mask tradition derives from revelers' desire to escape constraints of class and society. Mask wearers could easily mingle with people of different classes and be whomever they desired, at least for a few days. Cookie and Keller direct traffic with "King Neptune" on a shipboard passage through the mid-Atlantic. IN NEW ORLEANS, float riders are required to have a mask on. On Fat Tuesday, masking is legal for all Mardi Gras attendees – although store owners often post signs asking those entering to kindly remove their masks first. FLAMBEAUX or flaming torches, dates to the pre-electricity days when celebrants carried rope soaked in pitch then set alight. That way, party goers could continue merry-making past dark. Slaves were the original torch bearers and earned coins tossed their way as thanks for lighting the way for the floats. Today's torch bearers often dance and spin their kerosene lights, earning sometimes hundreds of dollars during a parade. The good times roll down the crowded streets of New Orleans last Mardi Gras. THE THROWING of beads was the idea of the king of the a carnival in 1872. He chose royal colors: purple for justice, gold for power and green for faith. The plan was to toss the color to people exhibiting the color’s meaning. The beads were glass! Today's beads are mostly plastic and the color-coded meaning has gone by the wayside but beads live on as a staple of Mardi Gras worldwide. This carnival king directs his way through the crowds. MANY CARNIVAL towns name a king. He is usually called Rex. The first New Orleans king was crowned in 1872, and that he was the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, who during a visit to the U.S. befriended U.S. Army Col. George Custer. The Civil Was hot shot met his end in my native state of Montana four years later. Oak Alley Plantation boasts 28 300-year old oak trees. COMING SOON: While we're in a New Orleans frame of mind, we visit Oak Alley Plantation and tackle the complex issue of slavery with a consideration of what we might learn from preserving this beautiful plantation. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Rungstedlund, the estate where Karen Blixen lived most all her life except the 17 years in Africa. She was born Karen Christentze Dinesen and wrote as Isak Dinesen. 'Out of Africa' author wrote 'Gothic Tales,' reflected on a life with lions and her lover after returning to her Danish homeland STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" and courtesy film producer Sydney Pollack estate Karen Blixen returned to Denmark after her lover was killed in a plane crash in Africa. WRITER KAREN Blixen's Rungstedlund, Denmark, home is a mini museum of the art she loved. She might have stayed in Africa at her coffee plantation with her partner, writing about the lions she loved, had he not died in a plane crash. After Denys Finch Hatton perished in his Gypsy Moth in 1931, the Danish born writer lost her spirit, and returned to her homeland to recharge and reflect. The Blixen Museum's gardens provide fresh flowers for the home. Visiting Karen Blixen's home Rungstedlund, Denmark Long fans of her writing, we decided to make the trip to Rungstedlund, the Karen Blixen Museum. On a warm but rainy Denmark day, we took the convenient fast train from our base in the coastal village of Vedbaek, two stops to Rungsted, where Blixen died in 1962. BARONESS AND famous author Blixen was born Karen Christence Dinesen, at the family residence, Rungstedlund, on April 17 of 1885. It would be decades before Karen Blixen's home in Rungstedlund, Denmark, became world famous. The property traces back to 1520, when it was owned by the Crown. Blixen's love of birds inspired her nesting sanctuary with 200 bird houses. Gorgeous beech trees -- some nearly 300 years old -- welcome visitors to stroll to or from the Karen Blixen Museum. The inn closed in 1803 and was owned by a wealthy farmer before Blixen's father bought it in 1879. Wilhelm Dinesen and Ingeborg Westenholz took up residency in 1881. Dinesen was born in 1885 and became Karen Blixen after marrying Baron Bror Blixen, her Swedish second-cousin, in 1914. The two were temperamentally unsuited, he was unfaithful and gave her syphilis. They divorced in 1921 and she returned to Denmark for treatment. Danish signs point the way to the museum and bird sanctuary. A bust of Blixen is a centerpiece in the home, open to tourists and part of the museum. Karen Blixen's grave is beneath a lovely beech tree. LEAVING THE station, we walked along lovely streets, directed by understated signs. We saw dozens of brightly painted bird houses -- with lots of customers flitting in and out. These are among 200 nesting boxes attracting 40 different species of birds happily breeding where Blixen walked and wrote. Her love of birds inspired her 1958 decision to create a bird sanctuary. Rungstedlund's 40 acres of gardens and groves are much loved by Danes and worldwide visitors. We enjoyed the bird houses so much that we returned the same way, bidding adieu to Blixen on the estate's Ewalds Hill. She is buried there beneath a gigantic beech tree with a simple stone marker. The grove boasts trees up to 300 years old, named after people with a personal link to the house, including Albert Einstein. A poster for "Out of Africa" featuring Meryl Streep as Karen Blixen and Robert Redford as her lover. The 1985 movie, "Out of Africa," starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford, and was a whimsical reflection on Blixen's life in Africa, where she learned Swahili. THE SANCTUARY is supervised by the Danish Ornithological Society. We toured the house, which contains Blixen's art collection, furniture and a beautiful bust of her. The oldest part of the home dates from 1680 when it was a combined inn and farm. Through the centuries, writers and artists visited. Poet Johannes Ewald Ewald lived there from 1773 to 1775, writing "The Delights of Rungsted, An Ode." The Karen Blixen Museum was founded in 1991 by Blixen's descendants and the Danish government. Hollywood made a movie about her life in Africa with her lover. "Out of Africa" starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford and was a lyrical meditation on her 17 years at her Kenya coffee plantation where she communed with critters, earned the love of the people and learned to speak Swahili. UP NEXT: Faroe Islands? Where are they? What language to they speak? How does one get there? A sign in the in Klaksvik, during a hike. We enjoy fish and chips in the Faroe Islands, our next stop. All that and more at the next whereiscookie.com Stay tuned, and remember to explore, learn and live as we visit these obscure but thriving islands in Scandinavia. Why has no one heard of these lovely islands? Perhaps because, they are not easily accessible. Check us out weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, performance and more. Remember, carpe diem.

Energy, enthusiasm, strong voices and high-stepping choreography make "The Music Man" a delight at Welk Resort Theatre. David Humphrey's swindling Professor Harold Hill charms the town -- and the audience -- in a joyful production of "The Music Man" at Welk Resort Theatre. Musicals and tribute shows are often on tap. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" and courtesy Ken Jacques Welk Resorts San Diego: Activities include lively theater If you're searching for a weekend getaway that blends relaxation, entertainment, and scenic beauty, Escondido might surprise you. Nestled within the expansive Welk Resorts property, the Welk Theater offers more than just a show -- it’s part of a full experience. Think peaceful surroundings, beautiful landscape, resort-style amenities and an evening of live entertainment to cap a perfect day. Cookie and Keller, center, met the spirit of Lawrence Welk in a poster behind them at the museum in Welk Resort Theatre. Their fellow musical theater fans are Melody and Larry Cogsdill, left, and Chuck and Cathy Colclasure. WHEN PROFESSOR  Harold Hill steps out of the train, promising to give Iowa a try with his roving flim-flam operation, we know we're in for a treat of Welk Resorts San Diego activities. We smile as he romances Marian the Librarian, breathing life into the stodgy town of River City and giving young grieving Winthrop hope.  The whole town comes alive -- and so do we, the happy audience smitten by the spell this classic of American musical theater weaves. Welk Theater in Escondido is well worth the drive from San Diego, for its nature setting and a series of fine musicals and tribute shows. Contact: thewelksandiego.com Welk Resort Theater, north of San Diego, does Meredith Wilson's legacy proud.  Its version of the 1962 Tony Award winner is larger than life, befitting its charismatic leading man. I GREW UP  with Broadway musicals and have long loved the tale of the swindler reborn with the love of a good woman (with the voice of an angel.) The two leads are masterfully played by David S. Humphrey as Harold Hill and Charlene K. Wilkinson as Marian.  While he's going straight, she's discovering the joys of love and romance. It's a pleasure to watch their chemistry develop. Robin LaValley as the Mayor Shinn's wife, Eulalee, is a comedic hoot, backed by the other lively Pick-a-Little gossips.  Bobby Chiu's Winthrop is endearing as he emerges from his cocoon of sorrow, and the Barber shoppers are a harmonic delight. Direction and choreography by Ray Limon is old-fashioned musical theater at its best -- full of energy with the ability to place us in the heart of the story. WE SIX JUNKIES of musical theater loved it. Check out Welk Theater and enjoy the journey! thewelksandiego.com Roustabouts: New Theater Company Makes an Impressive Debut Ruff Yeager created a determined, egotistical and believable professor in his character, Anton Myrvold, in a world premiere, "Margin of Error," by the new company, Roustabouts. . Four talented actors did honor in the world premiere of a new company in San Diego. Roustabouts debuted at Horton Plaza's Lyceum and moves to Diversionary for a second work. BRAVO, ROUSTABOUTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO MORE! Joel Miller is Gray Foxberry and Roxane Carrasco is Sunita Myrvold in a new company's premiere play. IT IS ALWAYS  a pleasure to add a new theater to our engaging and diverse list of troupes. San Diego's balmy weather produces more than avocados and surfers. The theatrical offerings are impressive. A new company, the Roustabouts Theatre Company, recently debuted and its first production is an enticing promise of brilliant collaborations with more to come.   A beautifully rendered opening production, "Margin of Error," was directed by veteran San Diego actor Rosina Reynolds. Her daughter, Kate Rose Reynolds, is featured in the play. ion. Kate Rose Reynolds is Britt Carlsson in Roustabouts premiere production. Two more ` works are planned this first season. The work is a fast paced drama that explores issues of morality, science, loyalty and politics in the academic world. Beautiful language by Will Cooper, a Roustabout founder, with nuanced direction by the versatile Reynolds make it clear that Roustabouts will be a major contender in San Diego's burgeoning theatrical repertoire. THE TROUPE'S second show will be the new comedy “Withering Heights” (yes a spoof on Emily Bronte's "Wuthering Heights.") "The Search for Signs of Intelligent Life in the Universe" follows, originated by Lily Tomlin and written by her longtime partner and collaborator Jane Wagner . Extraordinary violinist and storyteller Yale Strom promises more klezmer treats at the upcoming Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival, celebrating its 24th season. UP NEXT : The talent and pleasures of the annual Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival are upon us. Check out the array of performances, from Yale Strom's freewheeling Klezmer Summit, to Yiddish vocals and pop tunes, theater, readings, art and more. We've written about this festival for several years and its 24th season of treats is coming up in June.  Check it out at the Lyceum and elsewhere then mark your dance cards for spectacular work. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekly for a fresh look at performance, travel, nature and more. If this destination sparked your wanderlust, there’s plenty more waiting for you to explore more travel stories, tips and inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com

Lawrence Welk Resort, north of San Diego, California, offers housing options, restaurants, theater, golf and a charming little museum with artfully displayed memorabilia from the long-running television show, here Welk's accordion. Cookie explores the grounds near the theater entrance. It may be snowing elsewhere in the U.S., but SoCal is lovely. Christmas under the palms and mesquites appeals! "Plaid Tidings" ushers in the yule, at Lawrence Welk Resort near San Diego. Tucked away in the rolling hills of North County San Diego, the Welk Theater in Escondido feels like a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. From the moment you step inside, there’s a sense of timeless charm that sets it apart from larger, more commercial venues. Whether you're a fan of classic musicals, live performances, or simply looking for a unique night out, this theater offers an experience that feels both personal and unforgettable. WELK RESORT FEATURES SNAPPY THEATER, GOLF, DINING, LODGING, MUSEUM OF MAESTRO'S MEMORABILIA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ANYONE WHO  grew up in the 1950s and had access to television, remembers "The Lawrence Welk Show."  When the final episode aired in spring of 1982, many families felt they had lost a friend and were saddened -- mine included. The Welk Resort is an attractive, activity-focused hotel complex with luxury villas, a theater, golf course, and many other amenities. Spending a pleasantly innocent hour with Welk's "Family," as he called it, had become tradition  There were "the lovely Lennon Sisters" with their precise and pleasing harmonies, Myron Floren with his dazzling accordion work, the warbling  "champagne lady" Norma Zimmer, singer and saxophone player Dick Dale, Larry Hooper with his bouncy baritone and Arthur Duncan, the dazzling tap dancer who wowed us with his triple time steps.  Of course, there was Lawrence Welk himself, dancing with the ladies and leading the band, signing off with that famous champagne-cork cheek pop of his finger in his mouth. The Lawrence Welk Resort has a small but interesting museum in its theater.  It promises to bring back memories of Welk's popular TV shows. SINCE I BECAME  a part-time Californian, I've wanted to visit the Welk Theater Escondido and Resort north of our San Diego home. This activity-focused hotel has a variety of housing options, including villas and a comfortable, pretty theater.  It is situated north of San Diego, on 450 acres and is only 15 miles from San Diego Zoo’s famous Safari Park. If you have kids or grandchildren, Legoland beckons, too, just over 17 miles away. Keller takes a look at  one of the cameras from the long-running ABC show, which taped its finale in 1982, but is alive and well in re-runs on Public Television. Theater buffs, we booked tickets to a winning production of "Sweet Charity."  We arrived in time to enjoy a beverage in the lobby, which is home to an engaging, small museum of Welk memorabilia.  We enjoyed the posters, display cases with musical instruments, and vintage posters tracing Welk's rise from Dakota farm kid to internationally known band leader. Lawrence Welk's posters adorn the museum. WE WERE  delighted that the production of the Tony-winning "Sweet Charity" featured top-caliber dancing, snappy direction and fine voices. We're looking forward to "Plaid Tidings" to celebrate the holiday, with a run that began Thanksgiving weekend and continues through to New Year's Eve. A rousing production of "Sweet Charity" entertained Cookie and Keller. A tuneful holiday show, "Plaid "Tidings," is on tap through the holidays. The legendary Plaids, known for their close and "feel-good harmonies," return to planet Earth with a show guaranteed to spread yuletide cheer.as the promo says, to spread yuletide joy with the greatest holiday hits of the ages. The new show offers the same format as the hit "Forever Plaid,"  featuring holiday standards that have all been “Plaid-erized.”  The harmonious quartet is called back to earth by a heavenly Rosemary Clooney, who tells them their harmonies are needed to help heal our discordant world. Sprinkled among the yuletide offerings are audience favorites, including a three-minute version of The Ed Sullivan Show with the Rockettes, the Chipmunks and The Vienna Boys Choir, as well as a Plaid Caribbean Christmas that puts the "Day-O" in Excelsis! Sounds like a perfectly mixed holiday cocktail! Check out the holiday show at   www.welkresorts.com/san-diego/theatre/ Debbie Reynolds, left, and her daughter Carrie Fisher. whereisCookie.com reflects on their relationship and contributions next. UP NEXT:     The sad news of Carrie Fisher's death, then her mother's, has left their fans -- including Cookie -- deeply saddened.  Christene Meyers reminisces about Fisher's talent and courage, and her difficult relationship with her famous mum, Debbie Reynolds. The two talents and their complex lives moved millions, including Cookie, who interviewed them both -- 40 years apart. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out each weekend for an original take on the arts and travel.

The Wapiti Valley offers a beautiful drive in splendid fall weather, with changing colors, elk on the move and more. FALL ROAD TRIP IS JUST THE TICKET FOR A QUICK GET-AWAY-- WITH YORKIES, SCENERY AND ELK Elk -- here a bull with his harem -- live in large numbers in Wapiti, a Cree Indian word which means "elk" -- makes sense, doesn't it? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nick and Nora enjoyed the Wapiti sun, and a dog-friendly stay. Yellowstone Valley Inn and RV Park offers rustic, comfortable cabins, some dog friendly, and a splendid buffet breakfast. THE DRIVE through the Wapiti Valley yields plenty of wildlife, including the elk which gave this gorgeous corner of the Rockies its name. Wapiti is Cree for elk! Trees are turning in the Wapiti Valley creating a fall colors bonanza. What could be romantic than driving through the autumn scenery with your honey, your Yorkies and gorgeous views? Ah, it's contentment with a capital "C." FOR YEARS, I've loved this corner of Wyoming. I've seen more bears near the East Entrance of Yellowstone National Park than I've seen anywhere else in the park. We've also seen abundant elk, spectacular rock ridges, beautiful turn-outs along the Shoshone River, and an eccentric house atop a hill. You've probably wondered about the house; you can't miss it. It's an eye catching jumble of styles and daring techniques -- and this time through, I decided to do a bit of homework. The Smith Mansion is a sight to behold from the nearby road through Wapiti. THE SMITH MANSION, sometimes known as "the crazy house," stands high in the beautiful Wapiti Valley, closer to the park than to Cody. It is a piece of the Wapiti Valley's colorful history with as many stories about it as there are old timers to tell them. Stop in any of the lodgings or restaurants along the drive and you'll get an interesting tale or two. According to a newspaper article, in which Sunny Larsen was interviewed, The Wapiti Valley can be a base or an entry point for exploring nearby Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. the house was built by her father, talented architect and engineer, Francis Lee Smith. Sadly, he died at age 48 from a fall in 2002, preferring to do his own work himself on the dangerous ledges in Wyoming's winds. THE PLACE is for sure a piece of artwork left for the public, built by the late Architect/Engineer: Francis Lee Smith. Smith's daughter, who grew up in the home, began The Smith Mansion Preservation Project which is in full swing. She wants her children and theirs to be able to enjoy the home, which is falling into disrepair and has been vandalized. Elk antlers grace many lamps and chandeliers in the Wapiti Valley. IT'S JUST one of the picturesque sights you'll encounter in the Wapiti Valley (also called East Yellowstone Valley). For my pleasure, the drive is an hour plus of the prettiest driving around. It lies between Cody, Wyoming, and the aforementioned east entrance of Yellowstone, and you'll be driving on highway US 14-16-20. This 50 mile section of road is designated the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. It meanders through some of Wyoming's prettiest areas and includes the Buffalo Bill Dam, Buffalo Bill State Park and the Shoshone National Forest, our nation’s first just as we claim Yellowstone Park's "first" status. The Buffalo Bill Dam, named after the famous impresario, Bill Cody, is worth a stop on your way between Cody and Yellowstone Park. THE DAM visitor center is worth an hour's stop, and do watch for wildlife and interesting rock formations. You'll find a range of guest and dude ranches, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, and gas stations. The mix includes deluxe lodgings, simple campgrounds and smaller, more rustic inns such as the charming Yellowstone Valley Inn, right off the highway. We had a fine, simple supper in the bar's fancy screening room. The kindly proprietor ushered us in, introduced us to a spirited waitress and hooked us up with Public Television for the finale of "The Roosevelts," which we'd hated to have missed. (Our room had only "Direct TV" -- no PBS.) This healthy bison was spotted on a road not originally planned for travel during a recent Yellowstone Park trek. He was so close we heard him breathing! IF YOU'RE a hiker, you'll be in hiking heaven and the Wapiti also offers horseback riding, fishing, photo ops galore, rafting and boating, mountain biking and hunting. During breakfast, we visited with couples from Texas and California, both making Wapiti Valley their base for visiting Yellowstone which was fully booked last week! COMING SOON: The road less traveled! Don't let yourself get in a rut. If you always go to Old Faithful, try another destination in Yellowstone. You might find more buffalo than you can shake your camera at. Be prepared for surprise and turn change into a plus. If you're adventuresome and flexible, you'll enjoy whatever unfolds, even if it wasn't in the original plan. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

NAPIER, NEW ZEALAND OFFERS ART DECO DELIGHTS IN A TOWN THAT GREW FROM RUBBLE Napier is proud of its art deco design and buildings dating back to the 1930s after a 1931 earthquake leveled Napier. Napier goes all out for holidays and festivals. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN YOU first set eyes on the mid-sized town of Napier, New Zealand, you get a large feeling that "vintage" is in style all year. You expect to see Gatsby stroll by, in a dapper suit, with a charleston girl at his side. A classic Packard turns the corner and its driver is dressed in vintage attire. When the town's 1931 earthquake destroyed much of the city -- 7.8 on the Richer scale -- an enterprising city father supervised a rebuilding effort in quick time. Napier is tucked neatly into lovely Hawkes Bay. Behind the greenery is a beautifully preserved town built in the art deco style of the 1930s. HE EMPLOYED the fashionable architecture of the day -- Spanish Mission and Prairie -- and drew inspiration from the popular Art Deco trend, too. The "deco" style is characterized by precise and boldly delineated geometric shapes and strong colors, and that carries through in Napier's art-deco designed private homes, and big businesses such as the National Tobacco Company and Masonic Hotel. The newspaper and a theater are "deco," too -- the Daily Telegraph, and the Municipal Theatre. DURING THE year, thousands of visitors revel in the 1930s atmosphere created in the heart of the city and spreading out to homes in the suburbs. Thousands more make the city of 61,100 swell during an annual Art Deco festival in February. Lady Gaga, Tony Bennett dazzle at Planet Hollywood, click here WE LOVED the glitz and glamour of the musicians who greeted our ship, arriving in vintage autos and matching attire to play songs from the 1930s. Napier is located in Hawke's Bay on the eastern coast of the North Island. It calls itself "the Art Deco Capital of the World" and makes clever use of that moniker, promoting its annual festival with 200 events including outdoor concerts, vintage car parades, fashions shows, steam train rides, "Great Gatsby" picnics and more. This year's fest attracted 40,000 people worldwide. Businesses in Napier, above, and nearby Hastings have their art deco style of architecture preserved by government. During the fest, event attendees don period clothing, drive vintage cars, sip champagne, picnic in elaborate style, attend elegant soiree's and stroll the architecturally distinct streets that make Napier unique. The popular Masonic Hotel suggests the colors of the day, with its deco lavender, pink and soft green. Vintage autos and vintage dress greet ship passengers. The festival was a two-day event in 1989 but has grown to a week-long extravaganza celebrating an era of sophistication and reflective of the "can do" spirit that rebuilt and improved the town nearly 84 years ago. The Taieri Gorge train ride is one of New Zealand's most famous trips. NEXT UP: We've promised a train story Down Under and so we finally deliver. We cross Australia's vast expanses in a couple different fun and efficient trains, then take a gorgeous trip through New Zealand's Taieri Gorge. All aboard! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

A Maori tattoo was given to Cookie for her heroism in a stick game at a New Zealand village. Tattoo for a day gives insight, even superficially, into rich life of ancient people, beliefs Famed Kiwi director Lord Peter Jackson created Hobbiton, on which his award winning films were made. Story By CHRISTENE MEYERS Photos By BRUCE KELLER WE ARE sharing a few highlights from the current adventure Down Under and in New Zealand. Yes, it's a book tour with readings and meetings with other writers, but it's a trip down the rabbit hole with visits to Peter Jackson's "Lord of the Rings" wonderland and more. Extraordinary moments have included two major bridge climbs -- Sydney Harbour and Auckland Harbour -- and an initiation into the rites of Maori life and celebration. We've been singing and chanting and receiving "ta moko," the sacred tattoos with which the people tell their stories. While our "tats" are temporary, we are permanently affected by the sincerity and customs of the people. A typical Maori greeting involves sticking out one's tongue -- boldly, with eyes bright and big. Our favorite gesture, though, is the "farewell" one: noses and foreheads touch gently. Then you wish "kia ora kia ora" or be well, be well. Cookie and Keller, victorious atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge! Our most exciting visit of several to Maori villages was to Waimaramara near Napier, where we learned the significance of the facial markings, warring clubs and fur and feather cloaks. Facial tattoos tell status, ancestry and life lessons. WHEN WE told our hosts, Denise and her cousin Robert, about our novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," they were excited because while honoring the ancient ways of their ancestors, they are connected to the modern world. Find them on Facebook, YouTube and Tripadvisor. www.waimaramamaori.com in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand. When I became an honorary Maori -- at a magical ceremony in the hills of Waimaramara.......I received ta moko. My designs represent nature and grandmothers! Yes, I stuck out my tongue and I won a music stick competition involving faster-and-faster rhythms, passing the sticks left and right, changing hands in a circle of six people. When one drops a stick, he must drop out of the circle. I was the last standing in the circle! COMING UP: More of our adventures, learning and occasional mishaps -- San Diego to Sydney and New Zealand as we explore, learn and live Wednesdays, weekends and today, as the spirit of Maori life moves-- at www.whereiscookie.com

The Elvis Presley home in Palm Springs is a major attraction and a striking presence, with its unusual modern design. DESERT RATS: TAKE THE STARS TOUR, SEE WHERE THEY LIVED AND PLAYED IN PALM SPRINGS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Palm Springs and its star-studded list of residents came about because the studios wanted to keep stars close to L.A. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE STARS come out in Palm Springs. Or at least star-gazers do. Many of the greats who once luxuriated in the desert sun are gone to that big movie palace in the sky, but there are still some around this ever popular hide-away of the rich and famous. The stars settled here because studios insisted contracted personnel be within two hours from Hollywood -- not as far as "Sin City," Las Vegas. Palm Springs must see delights: Many of Palm Springs' current residents and visitors were barely born when Frank Sinatra, known as "the Chairman of the Board," caroused with Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin. John F. Kennedy visited Palm Springs to see Marilyn Monroe, who lived in a sweet little bungalow at 1326 Rose Avenue. Loretta Young entertained here. Bob Hope golfed here. Find out which star owned this Palm Springs home when you take a lively tour with guide Jeffrey Swanson. "The King," Elvis Presley, leased and later purchased a striking contemporary home here, honeymooning with Priscilla in 1967 after a secret wedding in Las Vegas. After ups and downs with listings -- from $9.5 million in 2014 to $5.9, to less than $1 million, the home is currently valued at a surprising $750,000. Keep in mind that July in Palm Springs can be 110 degrees! It is not a year-round comfort zone, but gorgeous on our recent spring visit. Designed by prolific modern architect William Krisel, the Elvis house was built for Robert Alexander of Alexander Construction Company, which assembled thousands of Southern California homes in the 1950s and ’60s, defining the architectural style of Palm Springs. The Double Tree by Hilton Golf Resort Palm Springs is a luxurious base for touring this beautiful resort town. Fabulous landscaping, great food. THE ELVIS HOME is a five-bedroom, 5,000-square feet spectacle, built in four intersecting pod-like wings. The unusual house where The King held court was named "House of Tomorrow" by Look Magazine in 1962. Pool and tennis court included, of course. During our Palm Springs must see delights tour we discovered Palm Springs on an entertaining near 3-hour tour with a brilliant guide, Jeffrey Swanson. He's lived in Palm Springs most of his life, and knows the stars' homes and the stories that bring them to life. He described "Hollywood's Playground" with anecdotes and lively history, including bits about Marilyn, Elvis, Nat King Cole, Liberace and the Rat Pack, Cary Grant, Jack Benny and more. Jeffrey Swanson is a font of Palm Springs knowledge and lore, a terrific tour guide. His user-friendly commentary offered insights into plants, climate, architecture, eateries and the region's history, including its Native American heritage. We ended the engaging day with a date milkshake at Windmill Market. THE MOST famous contemporary star owning Palm Twin Palms, Frank Sinatra's Palm Springs home. Springs property today is Leonardo DiCaprio, who bought singer/actress Dinah Shore's former home at 432 Hermosa. It's an elegant but not over-the-top place designed by famed architect Donald Wexler with Shore's help in 1964. A gigantic statue of Marilyn Monroe, "Forever Marilyn," was in Palm Springs for many years and has toured Chicago and other U.S. cities. For a thrilling bird's eye view, take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, 8,500 feet above the town. Hike, shop, explore and dine in the Forest View Room. The Sinatra house, "Twin Palms," is a pretty mid-century modern house where "the Chairman" lived from 1947 to 1954. Liberace designed his two Palm Springs homes in musical motif. Swanson showed us both, along with those owned by Alan Ladd, George Montgomery and the famous Gabor sisters, Eva and Zsa Zsa. You can find the homes yourself, but we recommend the delightful Viator tour for its ease and entertainment. Swanson's love of the place shines through. And don't forget the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, to give you a bird's eye view of the whole extravaganza. Dean Martin's home is a laid-back ranch style place propped against the hillside with welcoming palm trees. viator.com/tours/Palm-Springs/Palm-Springs-Celebrity-Grand-Tour pstramway.com/ PalmSpringsCelebrityTours.com UP NEXT: Ice cream, we all scream! Who doesn't like ice cream, so why not venture into the Sprinkles Pool with us at the San Francisco Museum of Ice Cream We took our favorite photo subjects to The Museum of Ice Cream in San Francisco. The concept began in New York City as an interactive art exhibit with ice cream and candy themed exhibits, all brightly colored, in a maze of rooms containing a rock-candy cave, a unicorn, soda fountain and a swimming pool of rainbow sprinkles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday. Peny Ganner and her brother, James, swoon in childlike wonder during an afternoon of indulgence at the Museum of Ice Cream.

Fort Lauderdale's beautifully renovated Hilton Double Tree Gallery One offers all-suite accommodations, gorgeous views of the city's famous waterways, a handsomely designed patio for relaxing and dining, fine contemporary artwork and easy access to the city's famed Water Taxi service which makes a regular stop here. Here's the view from our suite. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER On a recent sunny day, Fort Lauderdale's popular Water Taxis were enjoyed by an international group of tourists happy for this leisurely way to get around. FORT LAUDERDALE is a city of pleasant surprises. It has invented itself through the years to become an internationally popular destination for relaxing and enjoying water life. It has also developed into a world-class shopping paradise, with fine theater, galleries and museums. And just down the road, the Everglades beckon! We love the city's fun water taxi service, which gets one around to museums, parks, shopping and beach. Highly recommended. Variety is the spice of Fort Lauderdale's allure. We saw a "Hamilton" touring show one night, and listened to a country band the next. Cuban food for one tasty dinner and fine grilled fish at our hotel another evening. The water taxi is wonderful; we didn't have to rent a car. The Bonnet House is near Gallery One, a unique historic home named after a lily with a fascinating history and manatees. It's fun to watch the bridges go up and down in Fort Lauderdale. Broward County boasts a series of unusual bridges. THE HOTELS and eateries are as unique and varied as are the millionaires' homes dotting the canals and waterways. We based at DoubleTree by Hilton's attractive Gallery One hotel. The newly renovated property is beautifully designed with pretty public spaces and roomy suites. It boasts attentive, cordial service from check-in to farewell, and its inviting digs include a cozy bar, top restaurant and happy hour specials. An eye-popping collection of jazzy contemporary art hangs in both the suites and the public areas. The welcoming Vue restaurant offers delicious seafood, excellent room service and a platform to showcase regional artists. (Bravo for this inventive idea, Gallery One. Let's hope it catches on worldwide.) No matter how often we fly in to Lauderdale to set sail, we sing the praises of this exciting yet relaxing town. Where else can you gaze at the water from the 20th floor of a top hotel and in five minutes be on the very water taxi you admired from your balcony? FORT LAUDERDALE is ever changing. We saw cranes and new construction all along the canals, except in the most exclusive areas where old money and strict zoning laws have kept things much as they were when the sleepy little town's population numbered around 25,000. Now nearly Enjoy a leisurely ride on the water past homes where stars once lived. You might find your dream house. 200,000 people live here. Named for a war fortification built in the 1880s, Fort Lauderdale is only a half-hour from bustling Miami, but we prefer a few calming days here in Fort Lauderdale, as we explore the Caribbean, Panama Canal and Central America. We feel "low key" here, yet with "big city" amenities. Light and water are two of the draws of Fort Lauderdale, where millions are spent on yachts and mansions yet the city remains pleasantly accessible. Because we spend a lot of time in our room -- taking photographs, reading, planning our day, writing on deadline -- we insist on a room with a view. Gallery One delivered in spades. Because of its unique structure, with many corners and angles facing the waterways, there are beautiful views from many vantage points. You can contemplate the city's history as you watch the water life below. Many stars and sports figures keep yachts here. Stephen Speilberg's was anchored near our hotel. If you're flush, you can rent it for $1 million a month. But in ages past, the simple kayak was the mode of transportation. THREE THOUSAND years ago, the Tequesta Indians fished the winding intracoastal waterways of Fort Lauderdale, enjoying the beauty of the waterlilies and living off the bounty of the agricultural land the waters nourished. They glided on kayaks past flamingos and peacocks, tangling with and harvesting the crocodile for their meals. New construction is everywhere in Fort Lauderdale, and you can take it all in from the Water Taxi. They likely enjoyed the friendly presence of the manatee, who still gives birth in the waters that are now part of Fort Lauderdale. We saw two in the waters at the historic Bonnet House. Famous people have come and gone from the city. Dozens of movies and TV shows have been filmed here, including many of the episodes of "Miami Vice" and "The Golden Girls." Mayberry's Andy Griffith loved Fort Lauderdale and lived here many years. Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz had a home here and liked to take their small boat out on the canals, enjoying a cocktail or two at sunset. doubletree3.hilton.com watertaxi.com 954 467-6677; info@watertaxi.com An alligator takes a leisurely swim across the waters of the Everglades. Day tours are easy to arrange. UP NEXT: Look in front of the greenery, a bit left of center. What do you see? Might it be an alligator? Yes, it is, so climb aboard a jet boat with us and venture into the heart of the "river of grass" for an exciting Everglades airboat ride. We'll depart from Fort Lauderdale to the famous Everglades to show you some of Florida’s exotic wildlife with its miles of gorgeous wetlands. We'll get close up with an alligator while we learn about the beautiful habitat. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends for a fresh look at travel, nature and the arts.

The love of father for daughter is expressed in this photo of Christena Lynn Cosgriffe, taken on her second birthday.  Christena, born with Down Syndrome, kept Patrick going until last week.    LOVE, LOSS, LOYALTY, FAITH, FAMILY AND HOPES FOR A HANDICAPPED CHILD By CHRISTENE MEYERS Six Cosgriffe siblings, 11 years ago, with Patrick center in black "Clay Day" t-shirt and shamrock hat. From left, Rick, Olivia, Misha Kelly, Christene (Cookie), Patrick and Robbie, youngest sibling, who died in 2010.    PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE LAST phone visit I had with my brother Patrick was a philosophical one.  Perhaps he sensed the end was near -- but I had no inkling. He'd survived 14 surgeries and many hospitalizations, ambulance rides to the ER and long stays in physical rehab. His stamina surprised surgeons and his humor charmed nurses. He'd conquered drugs and alcohol addictions, accidents, falls, the loss of his spleen, hernias, back and more.  Despite tremendous odds, he'd always returned home to his beloved daughter, his only child, Christena. OUR GOOD  fortune ended Feb. 5, when he was removed from life support after a hopeless decline. Christena, now 11, believes her daddy is in heaven but asks, "when is he coming back?" Born with Down Syndrome, she survived several surgeries while still a baby.   Patrick Cosgriffe obituary   From left, a few Christmastimes ago: Christene (Cookie), Patrick, Misha, Rick and Olivia at Tate House, Georgia. Last week, with Patrick feeling chest congestion, and several friends and family with COVID, he was awaiting results of a home test for the virus that killed him. DEEPLY RELIGIOUS , he teased me for my agnostic leanings.  I thought he should be hospitalized, but he was holding out -- likely fearful of what might unfold.  "I think you should get to the ER," I urged. "Meanwhile, you'd better talk to your boy,"  He coughed and wheezed. "Cookie, he's your  boy, too," he said earnestly.  I hope so. I know the old saw -- "there are no atheists in a fox hole," suggesting fear encourages belief in a higher power. I'm no atheist, perhaps a skeptic, but I hope there is a hereafter -- for us humans and our "Rainbow Bridge" animal pals. My college minor was philosophy so like many of us, I've read Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Epicurus, Zhuangzi and scores of modern thinkers. If there is a heaven, Patrick belongs there. When he was found not breathing, it was too late for the ER and after a few days in the ICU, an MRI revealed what we feared: no brain activity. After consultations with the doctors, we made the decision every family dreads. Patrick Cosgriffe, left, and Bruce Keller, enjoying fishing on the West Fork near Nye, Montana.  PATRICK WAS devoted to his buddies at Alcoholics Anonymous, and struggled to attend meetings, even in a wheelchair or with a walker. After the resurgence of COVID, he attended AA via Skype. His friend and sponsor, Vince, came to his home to watch football with him. In healthier days, he fished the Stillwater, Yellowstone, Musselshell, West Fork, and a pond in Wheatland County at our cousins' ranch. He inherited my first husband Bruce's antique Gibson guitar, which he played beautifully. He was a wise and wonderful brother with a lilting laugh and teasing wit, a cherished member of the large and loving clan, a devoted father to Christena. "I want to see the kid to 20," he'd say. "Then I'll be 70 and we'll go out together." CHRISTENA IS  sad, too -- we aren't sure exactly what's going on in her young head.  But she'll continue to be surrounded by love -- from her aunties, uncle, cousins, friends, school mates and "mama Diane," Patrick's partner and fiancée. Although Diane has grown children and grandchildren of her own, she adores Christena and has been her sole mother figure for the past nearly six years.  She loves Christena, "as if she were my own flesh and blood." Fresh from a run through the sprinkler, Christena is happy in the mountains near the West Fork of the Stillwater River. This happy child likely faces more surgeries, and has already survived five for heart and lung defects.  Her immune system is compromised and she bounces back from consistent painful treatments for ear problems -- narrow canals are common in DS children, causing pain and infections which she braves with grace. She knows the lyrics to "Frozen," loves to sing and dance.  She dresses up for Halloween and loves holidays and celebrations.  Her Christmas gift from us was a pair of tickets to "Shen Yun," with her "mama" Diane. "I could hardly keep her from climbing up on the stage," Diane said. "She was mesmerized." When she comes to our place on the West Fork of the Stillwater, she loves to help me feed the birds then run through the sprinkler, roll in the grass, play with our ancient Yorkie, Nicky. "May I help you?" is her frequent question, as she reaches for a broom or stacks plates from the dishwasher.   Christena and "Auntie Jane" dress up for Halloween. She delights our large, theatrical family with her own sense of fun and drama . WHEN PATRICK  died, my sister Olivia and his partner  Diane were in the room with him. Niece, nephew, cousins cried in the waiting room. The tubes were disconnected, the heart slowed, he took a last long breath. Good night, sweet prince.    I used his hospitalization time to do what I do best: write, co-ordinate, make calls, consult the attorney to make sure the codicil to Patrick's will is followed: that guardianship of his beautiful daughter goes to Diane -- loving, devoted partner who helped nurse him through many battles. We've organized a fundraiser and generous donors who love the child and her papa are responding. (See link below). Huge expenses are the least of our worries. We are heartbroken.  Still, we remember it takes a village to raise a child, and we have one.  We will continue to nurture Christena, fight for Diane's permanent guardianship, and in so doing honor our brother's memory and his love for her -- and us. Rest in peace, dear Patrick. May "your boy" watch over you, take care of you and save a place for the rest of us.   This stunning big horn sheep stands sentinel atop a rock above a pool at Hilton Waikoloa Village, near Makai, one of the beautiful hotels. UP NEXT:  A wondrous collection of art awaits and one doesn't need to buy a ticket to a museum. A visit to the renowned Hilton Waikoloa Village offers a world class collection of art from the South Pacific.  Sculpture, paintings, ceramic and more celebrate the genius of master craftsmen and artists from Asian, Western, and Oceanic cultures – with more than 1,800 pieces. We enjoyed our immersion in the heritage, culture and traditions of the many and varied South Pacific people, gaining insight into life in the Pacific. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a new twist on art, music, history, travel, culture, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

President Harry Truman spent happy, relaxing times during his tenure, establishing a southern White House in Key West, and hosting cabinet members and many dignitaries for poker and fishing. Guides tell colorful Hemingway stories at the Key West home where he lived 11 years, from 1931. HOMESWEET HOME: FAMED WRITER, U.S. CHIEF LIVED IN KEY WEST, SHARED A LOVE OF  LAID-BACK FLORIDA TOWN   President Harry Truman's "Little White House" offered him a warm, relaxing break from the tensions of public office . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Key West legends THE PRESIDENT  who ended World War II and the writer who ran with the bulls in Pamplona loved Key West, Florida. Neither could claim to be a "conch" (native son) -- but each fished the waters and relaxed in the town.  Both men established homes in this laid-back berg, spending treasured days there.  Harry Truman escaped Washington D.C.'s cruel winters, spending 11 extended stays during his Presidency,1946-1952. Beginning in 1931, Ernest Hemingway spent a half-dozen years in Key West. Both men are remembered in museums centered in the homes they lovingly furnished. The Hemingway House in Key West is a lovely Spanish Colonial home, beautifully maintained . TRUMAN HELD card games, planned fishing trips and hosted foreign dignitaries. His Presidential limo is parked outside.  Hemingway staged lavish soirees and designed a special cemetery for his famous six-toed cats, offspring of a captain's gift. Both men's homes and gardens are  meticulously maintained as museums and visitor attractions with well informed, story-telling guides. On Hemingway's upstairs bed, one of 50 cats naps. Each one is carefully chosen from  offspring of the author's famous six-toed cats. LAID BACK Key West has a bohemian feel, much as it did in the days Truman and Hemingway fell in love with the place. It continues to attract an assortment of eccentrics, sun seekers and tourists -- with a loyal "local" clientele who proudly call themselves conchs -- that is, proud people born in Key West. The range of admirers includes dozens of writers, politicians, actors and five presidents besides Truman. According to our volunteer guide, a retired history professor, Truman found Key West Two of the mostly spayed and neutered  felines in the garden .     to be a sanctuary -- a welcome respite from the pressures and tensions of life in the U.S. Capitol.  He lovingly created his fascinating Florida White House. Hemingway tributes, friends, ex-wives, hunting expeditions, cats are celebrated. ACCLAIMED WRITER Ernest Hemingway was equally captivated, purchasing a lavish home -- mostly with his wife's money -- entertaining fellow writers and artists.  It, too, is now a fine museum. The Hemingway House, across from the Key West Lighthouse is on the far southern coast of the island. THE HEMINGWAY house has an open, airy feeling, with plenty of natural light and a compact study up the stairs in a separate building, where the author spent long hours writing.  Among the memorabilia are sculptures, trophies of his hunting expeditions, drawings and photos of wildlife and family portraits. One wall brings chuckles.  On it hangs a four-part collage of the author's quartet of wives:  Hadley Richardson, Pauline Pfeiffer, Martha Gellhorn and Mary Hemingway, his last wife, with him until his suicide in 1961.  Hemingway is in the center. President Harry Truman loved Key West and kept a selection of short-sleeved tropical weather shirts in his closet. It was during the "Pauline years" -- 1927 to 1940 -- that Hemingway lived in Key West, and it was through her uncle Gus that the house came to the couple. According to our lively guide, the couple spent happy years raising their boys and socializing before he left her for his third wife, Martha, originally a friend of Pauline's. The lovely pink and coral hues of the protected conch. Florida restaurants serve conch harvested in other parts of the Caribbean.  TRUMAN'S TENURE came when his doctor recommended a warm place to rest during his 19th month as President.  He returned each November and December, February and March for the next seven years, relaxing on the wrap-around enclosed porch, playing cards, strolling the town and escaping secret service guards to have coffee and shoot the breeze at a beloved restaurant, Pepe's Cafe. Conch fritters -- enjoyed by both Truman and Hemingway --  are a popular item but the seafood is from outside Florida waters. (In Florida, conch is protected.) Reportedly, he loved seafood in particular conch fritters. Hemingway's fondness for seafood  is well documented, too. He particularly liked to eat fish he'd caught. Truman  hosted many fishing trips for Cabinet members and other politicians, who stayed in guestrooms of the 1890 building, once officers' quarters on the town's submarine base naval station. SO MUCH  about Key West captivates the imagination.  Thousands of people have felt the allure and magic of this southern most point on the continental United States.   MORE INFO:   www.fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.org/      www.hemingwayhome.com/ Footnote about "conch" as applied to people: Mayor Dennis Wardlow, in a statement of protest and secession, declared the independence of Key West on April 23, 1982. The Mayor was designated the Prime Minister and the territory was given the name Conch Republic, with local citizens called Conchs. The Conch Republic was declared in 1982 during a tongue-in-cheek secession from the United States. "The Conch Republic" tongue-in-cheek moniker has been maintained as a tourism booster.  One is not a conch (pronounced "conk," like "conk your head") simply by living in Key West.  You must be born there. If you've lived seven years, you're considered a "freshwater conch" a la Hemingway.  The conch is a large sea snail living in the depths of the Gulf of Mexico.  The beautiful, coral-colored critters were almost extinct and are now protected, with heavy fines for taking a shell with the living creature within.   So while the former President was a visitor only-- albeit for long stays -- he didn't actually live there full time.  The famed author, on the other hand, did, and thus his ranking as a "freshwater conch." Mahi mahi is part of a Cuban inspired food tour in Key West, featuring five small-plate delicacies and a walking tour of the town's historic district. UP NEXT : No, not conch, but tasty mahi mahi in photo at right, served with a Carribean-style rice side dish and mango salsa during our foodie walking tour in Key West, Florida.  We sampled conch fritters (photo above) along with other popular bites on this Cuban inspired tasting tour.  We sampled five small plates, including a shredded, roast pork deliciously spicy and served with freshly baked, slightly sweet Cuban bread and barbecue sauce. We cap our walking tour and feast with key lime pie, made famous in the Florida Keys. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for fresh spins on the arts, travel, nature, family and more. food:  www.whereiscookie.com