AUF WIEDERSEHEN TO A BELOVED ICON: ACTOR, WRITER, CAT LOVER, GOURMET, GARDENER, TRANSLATOR, TRAVELER Hannelore Carter, left, her longtime companion and "son of the heart," Jason Webinger, and Christene Meyers, at a reception following a play. "The sun will rise and the moon will set and we learn how to settle for what we get. It will all go on if we're here or not, so who cares, so what." --  "So What?" from the score of "Cabaret"      STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SHE CALLED  herself "your Hannamama." We were devoted to one another and I just received the sad news of her passing. Although we shared no bloodline, we were connected by a mutual love of theater, travel, animals, literature and nature.  Her joie de vivre was contagious.  Folks said we had the same sparkle to our eyes and we both liked good gin. I shared her love of the eccentric -- in both humans and animals. We enjoyed gallows humor, puns and the French language. She loved the score of "Cabaret," in which we both acted, particularly the sardonic song "So What?" which she sang with gusto on and off stage. Hannelore Carter was my "heart mother." After my mum died seven years ago, I leaned on her. "I shall be your fairy godmother," she said. During our 47-year friendship, I wrote many stories about "Frau Carter" and her late husband, Constantine Carter.  We performed in plays together -- "Cabaret'' was a highlight, at Billings Studio Theater in 1977.  Hanna played Frau Romance blooms, then is crushed, in "Cabaret," in which Hannelore Carter  played Frau Schneider. Here, the  character  receives a pineapple from Herr Schulz.  Schneider, who runs a Berlin boarding house and falls in love with a Jewish grocer, Herr Schulz, during the Nazi rise to power. Bullied by the Nazis, the character declines marriage, betraying her heart and a chance for love. Her heartfelt portrait of the "Cabaret" character was drawn from personal experience. Hanna, born in Germany on Jan. 4, 1926, came to America in 1952. She'd lived through Hitler's hell and knew the sacrifice of war. Her father was killed during an Allied bombing, and she lost friends as an adolescent in Bavaria growing up between two world wars.  Like many of her contemporaries, she was a Hitler Youth, although her parents were quietly "anti-party," and had strong feelings about Hitler's reign of terror. She became a champion of human rights, had many gay friends and a curiosity for all cultures and creeds. Hannelore Carter's fondness for animals, and her clowning instinct, came together at "The Chalet," where she received guests, including Yorkies Nick and Nora.  It was a treasured retreat in the Beartooths. HANNA, AS HER  American friends called her, loved to tell the story of meeting her future husband, a native New Yorker.  She'd come to America as an au pair girl and nanny, and was crossing a street near Central Park, pushing her young charge in a pram.  "I paused at a street corner, to consult my map," Hanna said.  "A neatly dressed gentleman approached me and said, 'Could I be of assistance?'  It was Con, of course. I said, 'Sir, I am not a pickup.' But I allowed him to walk me home." They dated, married the next year and remained together nearly 48 years, while Con pursued a long, successful career in the hotel business, from The Big Apple, to Denver, then Billings in 1955. Con was a fixture at the Northern Hotel until the late 1990s. Hanna nursed him through cancer, in the same home on Parkhill Drive in which she passed early Tuesday.  Her 89th birthday was Jan 4. HANNA COULD  clown -- her letters to me often ended with "your sour Kraut" -- but she had a sweet, deeply serious side and won awards for her acting, at BST and other theaters.  Memorable to this reviewer are her leading roles as the eccentric medium, Madame Arcati in "Blithe Spirit," and as the formidable German grandmother in "Lost in Yonkers."  Another favorite role was as the title character in "Mother Courage and her Children," by fellow dramatist and German, Bertolt Brecht. But she ranked her "Cabaret" role as tops and cherished the guidance of director Skip Lundby. "Hannamama" near Nye, with her hiking stick. From left: Christene Meyers, Bill Jones and Jason Webinger.  She was a tireless translator for German guests, including stranded or injured travelers whose lack of English presented a problem during Montana visits.  One middle-aged German tourist had a heart attack a few years ago while visiting Yellowstone Park.  Hanna navigated the red tape of his hospitalization, tended him and his wife daily, helped him recover and return to his homeland. HANNELORE  was an early-day member of Landmarks,  a Billings preservation and beautification society.  She was a talented gardener, terrific German cook, avid hiker, brilliant seamstress (no patterns), devoted swimmer, delightful letter writer and card maker, and creator of a playground of brick walkways and garden paths in her meticulously tended back yard.  She adopted abandoned animals, cultivating a fondness for orange and gray cats, and bestowing whimsical names. She loved our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, whom she referred to as "your fetching children." Besides acting, translating and volunteer work, Hanna taught for many years at Rocky Mountain College.  She wrote short stories and poetry, including eloquent odes to both of my late husbands, Bruce Meyers and Bill Jones.  She referred to Bruce as "Bruce the Great," (he was the emcee in our beloved "Cabaret" when I was head of the bawdy Kit-Kat Band).  She called Bill "our Billy Boy," and penned a portrait to him for his memorial at High Chaparral in the Beartooths.  Hannelore's moniker for Keller was "your Prince Charming."  She is my only "elder" who knew well all three of my life loves. Cookie's only photo of herself, her "bio mum," Ellen, and her "Hannamama." HER LONGTIME  companion and devoted friend was Jason Webinger, who was with her when she passed Tuesday morning. "I promised her I'd be there until the end," he said, with emotion. He held her hand through her last night, administering the morphine hospice prescribed.  She called him "my son of the heart," and he was her confidant, dinner companion, traveling mate, power of attorney and, finally, her loving caretaker.  Jason called Hanna "my soul mate, my dearest friend."  He shared her father's Oct. 15 birthday, which they celebrated with great gusto. Jason and Hannelore loved their hillside perch at "The Chalet," which they built together in Cathedral Mountain near Nye. There they hung their paintings, artwork and  treasures from lifetimes of travel. She hoisted a red, white and blue banner on the porch, proud of her nearly 63 years on American soil, which she celebrated on her 60th year here with a 2012 party. Hanna was an only child, as was Con. They had one daughter, Heidi, who kept vigil with her mother and "adopted brother" Jason, these past weeks, traveling from her job in Iowa. HANNELORE  specified there be no obituary, but as Jason told me today, "Of course, she wanted you to write something." As a fitting memorial, I'll make a donation in her name to the Humane Society. My heart is heavy, Hannamama.  Auf wiedersehen.  You told me, "It doesn't mean good-bye. It The famed Sydney Harbour Bridge in Australia is next up. We photographed it, sailed under it and climbed up it! means until we meet again." COMING UP :  We bumped the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge features to pay tribute to our dear friend Hannelore Carter, who died Tuesday. We'll resume our travel and theater specials WEDNESDAY, giving this eulogy appropriate view time and Cookie a few days to mourn. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, as Hannamama did. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Santorini's rugged hillsides are shaped by volcanic eruptions of more than 3,000 years ago. A tram offers a pleasant ride up. Close-up of the turning wheel, which keeps the pleasant cable car ride going. Pulling away from our ship, we approached the volcanic rock of Santorini. From Santorini Magical Greek isle 'KALIMERA' - GOOD MORNING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SIX MAJOR STARS in the Cyclades shine brightly, each with a beauty unique to it alone. Located in the central Aegean Sea, Santorini is perhaps the most famous of the group -- followed by Mykonos, then the less visited Naxos, Paros, Andros and Tinos. The approach to Santorini is memorable -- sheer cliffs surrounded by winding harbors and topped by houses. The famous donkey ride up the hill to Fira. Today, we take you to Santorini, also known as Thera, where we hiked to the rim of an ancient volcano that exploded in about 1,600 BC. Then we took a boat ride around the warm-colored limestone cliffs which make the island famous. And we capped the day with a ride up the famous tram, where we caught bird's eye views of the pink, brown, black, white and pale green, topped by white village. We passed on the donkey ride -- we did it years ago. It's become controversial because of abuse and neglect of these charming and hard-working critters by some ride operators. SANTORINI WAS called "Kallisti" for centuries, meaning "the loveliest" and in several visits, we've come to agree. We love the blend of Cycladic architecture, volcanic rock, Venetian elegance, fine food Cookie and Keller board the tender to take them back to the ship. and friendly folk. Our Santorini journey began in Fira, with a fine museum of bronze age relics, many fine restaurants and a stellar view of the sea below. The late autumn morning was chilly but we bundled up for an energetic climb to the caldera, a lovely crescent of cliffs about 1,150 feet above the sea where we could see the other islands in the background, and listen to stories from our knowledgeable and animated guide. She does not buy the myth that Santorini was the mythical Atlantis, mentioned in both Egyptian papyri and by the great philosopher Plato. She, like Plato, believe Atlantis is in the Atlantic. We do know that this cataclysmic explosion destroyed the Minoan civilization on Crete. Greek food on Santorini is classic -- tasty lamb and beautiful salads of olives and feta, plus hearty flavorful tomatoes, cukes, lettuce and red onion produced by the island's volcanic soil. SINCE ANTIQUITY, Santorini has relied upon rain for both drinking water and irrigating the island's bountiful crops. Although water is imported as well, one still sees cisterns collecting the rain. The locals drink stronger stuff, and say there is more wine than water on their island. Indeed, wine is the island's major export. I relished a glass of the retsina, having many years ago developed a taste for the unique pine-citrus blend. Keller opted for the Greek version of lemon soda -- tasty, too. We dined on skewered lamb, delightfully seasoned with olive oil, garlic and rosemary, and a fine Greek salad with generous olives and feta. We also shared a side of keftedes, delicious spicy meatballs. And we split a piece of Santorini baklava, that ambrosia of honey-nut pastry which both Greeks and Turks claim as their invention. Baklava and a Santorini sunset, wow. We toasted the day at a cliff-hanging tavern in Fira, our last stop before heading south to Malta, then back to Barcelona. St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands was spared the wrath of the most recent hurricanes, and remains beautiful. NEXT UP: St. Croix beckons -- oceans away from the Greek Isles. Come along to visit a turtle refuge, mahogany forests, stately sugar plantations, gorgeous beaches, friendly people and a national park famed for its archaeological sites, mangroves and coral reefs. We biked around the island one day -- a memorable time indeed. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Fridays when we post a new, fresh look at global travel, the arts, nature, family and fun.

Grecian and Roman sculpture adorn the entryway and paths to San Simeon's Hearst Castle on the central California coast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Rising majestically above the cliffs of San Simeon, Hearst Castle feels like something out of a dream. Built by publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst, this sprawling estate—known as La Cuesta Encantada, or “The Enchanted Hill”—invites visitors into a world of lavish design, historic treasures, and breathtaking views of the Pacific. As you wind your way up the scenic road and step inside, you’re not just touring a mansion—you’re stepping into a piece of California’s most fascinating past. Hearst's youthful travels inspired his lavish creation of San Simeon. WHEN WILLIAM Randolph Hearst was a little boy his mother took him on a grand tour of Europe. There the tyke admired ancient statues, castles and frescoes, learned about the art of the Renaissance and dreamed of having his own artful place when he grew up. Hearst Castle California coast tour shows that fantasy became reality, a modern day Shangri-la, when the newspaper baron created San Simeon. Hearst Castle California coast tour, Visitors pause outside the main mansion, by the outdoor pool. Hearst and his trusted architect, Julia Morgan, on site in 1926. We joined tourists from all over the world to admire the excesses of a true eccentric. Hearst traveled to Europe many times collecting the art that would become his legacy and placing it in his carefully designed mansion. His enterprising female architect Julia Morgan was with him every step of the way. INVITATIONS to Hearst Castle were highly coveted during its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s. One of the many details is the ornate front door through which movie stars and others entered. Hollywood royalty and the politically elite visited, usually flying into the estate's airfield or taking a private Hearst-owned train car from Los Angeles. Charlie Chaplin, Cary Grant, the Marx Brothers, Charles Lindbergh, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, Jimmy Stewart and presidents Calvin Coolidge and FDR visited. Winston Churchill spent time with Hearst and his wife in New York City, then with Hearst and his mistress at San Simeon, remarking that he found both Hearst partners delightful. The beautiful,.peaceful Neptune Pool, a favorite hiding place of Patty Hearst. WHILE GUESTS were expected to attend the formal dinners each evening, they were left to their own devices during the day while Hearst directed his business affairs. Since "the Ranch" had many facilities, guests could play tennis, hike, ask the kitchen to make a picnic, or simply wander about, read, enjoy the exotic wildlife and rejuvenate. ALCOHOL was not forbidden, but was served in moderation and could not be brought in. Those who abused protocol were not invited back! The theater was available for viewings and Hearst often screened films after dinner, choosing from productions of his own film studio, Cosmopolitan Productions. The newspaper baron's many trips to Europe inspired the compound known by millions as San Simeon. HEARST CASTLE was the inspiration for "Xanadu," the mansion of the 1941 Orson Welles classic film, "Citizen Kane," a fictionalization of William Randolph Hearst's career. However, the castle was not used for the film, which was shot at Oheka Castle in New York. Commercial filming is rare at Hearst Castle and most requests are denied. Only two projects have been allowed to film on the premises: director Stanley Kubrick's "Spartacus," which used the castle as Crassus' villa; and a Lady Gaga music video. PATTY HEARST, granddaughter of the mogul, remembers playing in the Neptune Pool and hiding behind its gorgeous statues. She conducted a Travel Channel tour a few years back, recalling the place with affection. Hearst maintained his own fire truck on the premises -- just in case. Hearst Castle is both a national and California historical landmark, designed by Hearst's friend, Ms. Morgan, during their long collaboration -- 1919 to 1947. Hearst was still enhancing his creation when illness forced him to abandon the project in the late 1940s and he did not return to his beloved San Simeon before his 1951 death. THE CALIFORNIA Park Commission voted to include the castle in its State Park System in 1954, with a proposed admission charge of $1 and 50 cents for the bus ride up. Today's tourists pay $25 per tour (cottages and kitchens, grand rooms, upstairs suites, the main castle and an evening tour). Packages are available including hotels and a delightful holiday tour is featured with evening lights. (We loved the Best Western Plus Cavalier where we had a splendid ocean view room. More about that in our coastal hotels piece.) Just a few miles from the Hearst Castle is San Simeon's Best Western Cavalier. This is the beautiful ocean view from our delightful room. THE HEARST FAMILY keeps a villa on the grounds for its private use, separated from the parts tourists see. The mansion and its grand collection of art and antiques includes Hearst's flashy red fire truck. The complex is near a small unincorporated town, San Simeon, and the village of Cambria. Millions of travelers visit each year. When Hearst approached American architect Morgan with ideas for a new project in April 1915, his idea was to fashion a comfortable bungalow. "I'd like to build something upon the hill at San Simeon. I get tired of going up there and camping in tents. I'm getting too old for that. I'd like something a little more comfortable," he said. A candy emporium and much more await you in Old Town Sacramento, Hearst formally named the estate "La Cuesta Encantada" ("The Enchanted Hill"), but usually called it "the ranch." Hearst Castle and grounds are sometimes referred to as "San Simeon" as is the surrounding area and its lovely hotels. Phone 1-800-695-2269 for tickets or information or go to www.hearstcastle.org. COMING SOON: California dreaming means fun hotels and rooms with views....... then we're dreaming of a snake-free summer under the Big Sky, where seldom is heard a discouraging word. Plus Old Town Sacramento with terrific Greek food, live music, a candy emporium with dozens of salt water taffy tastes. And more, at www.whereiscookie.com

Cannery Row lives on in Monterey, with upscale shops, eateries. The fish canning industry flourished from the early 1900s to 1973.  CANNERY ROW VISIT RECALLS FILM PREMIERE  OF 1982 NICK NOLTE, STEINBECK CENTER, MEMORIES AND  TWO PACKS OF MARLBOROS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A visit to California’s Central Coast offers more than scenic beauty—it’s a journey through the landscapes that inspired one of America’s greatest writers. In Salinas, often called the “Salad Bowl of the World,” you can trace the early life and influences of John Steinbeck, whose stories brought this region to life. From there, the road leads west to Monterey, where the historic Cannery Row once bustled with the sardine industry that Steinbeck immortalized. Today, the area blends its gritty past with vibrant shops, ocean views, and a sense of nostalgia that makes every step feel like walking through a novel. In Salinas California with Steinbeck lore the stories of writer John Steinbeck tell of man's struggles and search for justice. The American Dream is just out of reach for his downtrodden,  repressed characters. Steinbeck was a Californian -- born in Salinas in 1902 -- also lived in Monterey.   He experienced life in both of these contrasting towns -- the farming based Salinas, where his dad was an expert gardener, and the artsy Monterey, with which his bookish mother more identified. John Steinbeck's hometown celebrates his life in a multi-million dollar museum. --photo courtesy NPR The two cities are in many ways the Athens and Sparta of this part of central California. Monterey boasts lavish ocean-front property, boutiques, pricey hotels and B&Bs. The inland Salinas Valley is known as "The Salad Bowl of the World" for its quality produce: lettuce, broccoli, mushrooms, strawberries and more.  'Travels with Charley' inspires road trip Salinas California with Steinbeck lore STEINBECK WAS  drawn to the rough and tumble times and characters he observed during the fish canning industry's heyday. He was a keen observer, fascinated by the colorful but turbulent life on the waterfront. His passion for this part of the state -- and for travel -- lives on in a center memorializing him, his work, his ideals and characters. Prostitutes, fishermen, cooks, shop keepers, denizens of an often dirty life inhabit his prose. My 1982 visit was for the world premiere of "Cannery Row," a movie starring Nick Nolte and Debra Winger. It is based on the Steinbeck novel published in 1945 when the author was living with his second wife and son Thom in Monterey.. Nick Nolte in 1982. He turned 81 in February . Debra Winger and Nick Nolte star in "Cannery Row." photo courtesy MGM Salinas, in Central California, feeds the nation with its rich variety of farm produce from fertile valleys.   We walked down the hill he strolled to downtown Alvarado Street, reminiscing about my visit, chatting with a shopkeeper who said Steinbeck returned several times to his stomping grounds, and connected with California throughout his life.  He studied at Stanford University and was a tour guide in Lake Tahoe before his work won acclaim and a Nobel Prize. Six years after the Nobel honor, he died in 1968 in New York City, not his native state. IN 1982, NOLTE was 41 and 28 years away from quitting cigarettes. But he was trying. During a round table interview, he needed a smoke and said, "Whoever gets me a pack of Marlboros aces a one-on-one." I jumped up, headed for the hotel lobby, slipped a $5 bill into the machine and bought two packs. Cigarettes were 60 cents a pack. I was so excited, I left the change. The National Steinbeck Center in Salinas pays tribute to a native son who won fame and in 1962, a Nobel Prize . It was a great interview and I sent him a note when he finally kicked the habit in 2010 -- using electronic cigarettes.   The film's focus is the decline of the fish canning industry, set during the Great Depression. It is based on a pair of Steinbeck novels ("Cannery Row" and "Sweet Thursday.") The last cannery closed in 1973, nine years before the film, which ranks as a sentimental favorite of mine. I love my back story, the whimsical characters and cinematography by Swedish born Sven Nykvist. BTW, Winger plays Nolte's love interest, and David S. Ward made his directorial debut. FANS OF STEINBECK  know his familiar themes:  the pursuit of  the American Dream, the need for compassion, the importance of unification, the mass hardship and suffering in life. We visited his museum, with its grand National Steinbeck Exhibition Hall, taking a pleasant journey through the author's "Valley of the World."     Salinas is known for its vibrant agriculture. While  not as "artsy" as its neighbor Monterey The lore of the sardine canning period lives on, here in a boat by a brewery in Monterey. The exhibit offers a unique slant on Steinbeck -- organized geographically, so we visited locations in which he lived, traveled to, and wrote about. Each location features information, details and displays, including theatrical sets and "scenes" from the author's life. We watched films, listened to sound clips and viewed artifacts about Steinbeck's life and writings. The Packard Foundation, which funded the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium, also endowed the Steinbeck museum. Its mission is to encourage his goals: to participate, to inspire, to educate, and to understand one another. It opened in 1998, 30 years after the author's death, in his hometown of Salinas. It pays homage to his 1962 Nobel Prize, awarded for his "realistic and imaginative writings, combining sympathetic humor and keen social perception." Malta's history and culture and Mediterranean warmth are attracting visitors UP NEXT: The world is opening up as Covid shows signs of being controlled, if not conquered.  From Peru to Poland, Kenya to Croatia, travel is opening up again. It's critical to research your destination for each country has its rules and regulations and there are stiff fines -- even jailing -- if protocol is not observed and followed.  We take you to the best and safest spots, with caution and care, but the knowledge that our world is once again opening and welcoming the traveler. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com

The Bay of Gibraltar is home to fancy yachts, pleasure and fishing boats and a variety of sea life, along with the famed monkeys. This visit was to track dolphins, and we weren't disappointed. Dolphin watch in Gibraltar Bay: Exciting, yes, but Gibraltar offers Gardens, wildlife, cable car adventure, dining and friendly folk. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Dolphins frolic in the waters of Gibraltar, where they are a main attraction for tourists and beloved by locals. A dolphin watch in Gibraltar is a delight, but this exotic place is known for many other things, from its photogenic primates to its enduring rock. Its most notable attribute is its strategic position at the mouth of the Mediterranean, at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula on the Bay of Gibraltar. Because it is so near the Mediterranean's exit into the Atlantic, its enviable location has made it a contested body of water over centuries and the site of many sea skirmishes. The bloody 1607 Battle of Gibraltar between the Dutch and Spanish is the most notorious. The Dutch surprised a Spanish fleet in the Eighty Years War. GIBRALTAR is also celebrated as one of the few places in the world offering a view of two continents and three countries. On a lucky, clear day, from certain vantage points, it is possible to see both Africa and Europe. You'll also have a chance to see Gibraltar, Spain and Morocco, if you're really fortunate. Cavorting with the dolphins, from left: Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Jane Milder. Realizing how close the continents are -- divided only by the narrow Strait of Gibraltar -- one understands the bay's importance as a maritime link between the two continents. Wildlife abounds here -- dolphins are sure to be seen on a dolphin watch tour. There are monkeys and other critters on land and sea. WE'D SEEN the monkeys twice, but we did not realize until this most recent visit that some of the Mediterranean's best sea life viewing is here. We decided on a dolphin watch in Gibraltar looking for three species of playful dolphin vie with Gibraltar's endearing monkeys for headlines: the common dolphin, bottle-nose dolphin and striped dolphin. These amazing and playful, "tourist friendly" creatures visit the Bay and Strait of Gibraltar for food, shelter and to breed. You can see both dolphins and monkeys on some tours and the monkeys are worth a look, too, if you've not seen them before. Hang on to your hat -- they're clever thieves. They're Europe's only wild monkey population, originating from the Atlas and Rif mountains of Morocco and brought by early settlers. Dolphins skim alongside the boat, fascinating passengers on a Gibratar tour. Our dolphin watch tour naturally highlighted dolphins, which our homework showed could be seen near our ship, Norwegian Cruise Line's stunning Viva. We were met at the dock by a friendly driver who shared dining tips during a pleasant ten-minute drive to our dolphin watching boat. There we joined a small, convivial group of fellow dolphin fans. We were delighted to find dolphins within five minutes from the dock -- the easiest and closest viewing we've seen in many dolphin outings on several continents. Gibraltar's monkeys are long famous, but dolphin tours are on the rise and a cable car adventure awaits. A CABLE CAR ride to the Top of the Rock and Nature Reserve is another highlight. The viewpoint was not open on our visit four years ago and is a recent addition to other attractions as Gibraltar amps up its tourism push. The laminated glass floor and balustrade are an impressive 1,115 feet above sea level, built on the foundations of a World War II base structure. A plaque informs that it is a faithful reproduction of the original base used for an anti-aircraft gun during World War II. Gibraltar's cable car offers stunning views of the bay, and on clear days of two continents and three countries. Gibraltar's architecture reflects its Moorish influence but it has long been a British Overseas Territory with 34,000 proud Gibraltarians. Its area is a scant 6.8 kilometers, bordered to the north by Spain from which myriad daytrips are possible. MAIN ATTRACTIONS are all fairly close in Gibraltar. The cable car station for Gibraltar's Swiss designed aerial tramway is near the southern end of Main Street, next to the gorgeous Gibraltar Botanic Gardens, known as the Alameda. This wonderful place offers plants from all over the world, a calming respite after the cable car with its white knuckle, 360 degree panoramic view across three countries and both continents. Gibraltar's Botanic Gardens, known as The Alameda, are meticulous. The viewpoint was opened in 2018 by actor Mark Hamill, known as Luke Skywalker of "Star Wars" fame. A tasteful plaque commemorates the dedication. Although spectacular on a clear day, it can be unnerving to climb those metal steps to the viewing platform, then walk on glass to the view. I confess to a tinge of vertigo -- the same I felt in Madeira, at the top of its spectacular Skywalk. But it's worth the nerves. We felt welcome here, too, as Gibraltar has yet to join the ranks of tourism protesters More information: www.visitgibraltar.gi/ www.ncl.com/Norwegian/Viva www.naturereserve.gi/experiences/cable-car/ www.visitacity.com/gibraltar/tours Native son Cesar Manrique had his hand in transforming the island of his birth, Lanzarote. Here his home and studio is now an intriguing museum in the Canary Islands. UP NEXT: Cesar Manrique was a gifted artist -- painter, sculptor and architect. He is beloved and famous for changing the face of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. The artist studied in Madrid and after several years exhibiting around the world, he moved to New York, the mecca of art in the 1960s, then back to his native Recife on the island he loved and made more beautiful. We look at his fascinating architecture, remembering to explore, learn and live: www.whereiscookie.com

Enjoy each day and celebrate holidays with a trip to the beach -- or a favorite restaurant. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers kick holidays up a notch in Vietnam. FOOD, FUN, FINDING A NEW PLACE HIGHLIGHT HOLIDAYS ON THE ROAD and our recipe for holiday jambalaya This Vietnamese meal was prepared for a special holiday gathering at our hotel in then Saigon. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Shopping and schmoozing in the Caribbean, Cookie made a new friend in St. Lucia who directed them to a delightful cafe for local fare. Noodles are part of a special holiday meal in Tokyo. HOLIDAYS ON the road overflow with adventure, fun, surprise and delight. We've spent a dozen yuletides in warm climes -- Vietnam, Australia, the Caribbean, and once in chilly but beautiful Finland. We try to do something special on a holiday abroad -- take a special hike, a city bus, boat or bike tour. Then we always cap the day with a meal in our new environs. Maybe we walk into a village to find a cafe popular with locals. We chat up vendors and hotel folks to find street fairs, food stalls and flea markets, all popular during the holidays in Europe and the Caribbean. We glean tips on munching and shop for gifts in the same outing. In Saigon (pre-Ho Chi Minh City) we were directed to a small hotel restaurant with a huge, tasty holiday feast of pork, pickled veggies, tangy soups, chicken dishes, noodles, rice cakes, and delectable desserts. For two of us, the bill was $35. IF YOU'RE staying home, don't let that stop you from putting a little international flair on your table. If you're Norwegian, try serving lutefish on Christmas Eve. Or how about making latkes on Hanukkah or noodles and dumplings on New Year’s Day. Whatever your ethnic persuasion or interest, the holidays are a perfect time to broaden your tastes while you eat, drink and be merry. Dedication to delicious food is universal, whether you're visiting some new place or channeling a French or Italian chef's pantry. It's easy to open a cook book or go on line to spice up a holiday meal with a recipe from another country or culture. Try one or two of these if they sound intriguing. Even a simple breakfast can be made exotic when you're on the road, or dreaming of being. IN A HELSINKI mood? You can savor porkkanalaatikko, which translates to carrot casserole. In Lisbon, try the country's favorite dish, cod, called bacalhau, which you can make extra festive on Christmas Eve by trying "Bacalhau de Consoada." In northern China, we've dined on jiaozi, those delicious pork dumplings. Time consuming to make but so tasty. In Israel, holiday time means latkes, those irresistibly crispy potato pancakes sometimes kicked up a notch with zucchini or tahini. One special New Year's Eve in New Orleans, friends invited us to their kitchen to prepare a delicious bouillabaisse. Peking Duck on our plate for New Year's Eve, in China of course, a Shanghai eatery. In Kyoto one New Year's Eve, we sampled a fragrant "year-crossing noodle” dish. Toshikoshi soba is a thin noodle concoction traditionally served to welcome the new year and bring good luck in Japan. Of course, sauerkraut rules in Germany and panettone in Italy. IT'S FUN to do something new, too, combining a meal with an outing. Try a hike up a hill or in a nature preserve, park or zoo, followed by a meal in a nearby restaurant. Many places that attract tourists and families are open during the holidays. SO WHETHER it's spicy tamales in Mexico or or a spongy yule log cake in France, tuck into something different this holiday -- even if it's from your armchair with something unusual in your home kitchen. You don't have to cross an ocean to try something new. We're sharing a recipe we made with friends from Louisiana whom we met on a cruise. It's the state's favorite one-pot dish: jambalaya. We cooked this jambalaya while visiting new friends in their New Orleans home over Christmas. This succulent dish varies from kitchen to kitchen, depending on the cook and recipes passed through generations. Jambalaya usually contains chicken or pork sausage -- andouille, chorizo or smoked sausage are favorites. Seafood is normally added -- crawfish or shrimp, but we've also had lobster in jambalaya. Onion, bell peppers and celery are musts, with rice, chilis, seasonings and broth -- all cooked together until the rice is done. Bruce Keller enjoys a New Year's souffle with thick whipped cream, served in the Canary Islands' Lanzarote by a gracious waitress. Some jambalaya recipes have a Cajun spin. This one comes from a Creole cook. JAMBALAYA INGREDIENTS 3 tablespoons cooking oil, divided 2 tablespoons seasoning, (Slap Ya Mama is great, or our favorite chili powder.) 10 ounces (300 g) andouille sausage, sliced 1 pound (500 g) boneless skinless chicken cut into 1 inch pieces 1 onion diced; 1 small green bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and diced 2 stalks/ribs celery, chopped; 4 cloves garlic, minced 14 ounces (400 g) can crushed tomatoes 1 teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon each dried thyme and dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or 1/4 teaspoon Cayenne powder) 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce; 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 cup thinly sliced okra (or 1 teaspoon file powder) 1 1/2 cups uncooked white rice (short grain or long grain) 3 cups low sodium chicken broth 1 pound (500 g) raw cleaned shrimp/prawns tails Sliced green onions and chopped parsley, to garnish INSTRUCTIONS Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Season the sausage and chicken pieces with half of the seasoning. Brown sausage in the hot oil; remove with slotted spoon, set aside. Add rest of oil to pot. Sauté chicken until lightly browned. Remove and set aside. Sauté the onion, bell pepper and celery until onion is soft and transparent. Add garlic and cook until fragrant. Add tomatoes; season with salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, red pepper flakes or cayenne powder, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and remaining seasoning. Stir in okra slices (or file powder), chicken and sausage. Cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. ADD RICE and chicken broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low-medium. Cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until liquid is absorbed and rice is cooked, stirring occasionally. Place shrimp on top of mixture, stir gently, cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are pink (5-6 minutes, depending on shrimp size.) Season with a bit more salt and pepper if needed. Remove from heat. Add optional extra hot sauce, cayenne pepper or Cajun seasoning. Serve with sliced green onions or parsley. Why not check a longed for trip off your bucket list? Here, Cookie and Keller visit "Godfather" country in Savoca, Italy, and the church where the famous wedding scene was filmed. UP NEXT: New Year's Eve is upon us, a time for ringing in the new. Why not make it a year to accomplish something you've longed to see or do. Let's put a positive spin on 2023 as we emerge from so much darkness. It's been a difficult three years with the trauma of the pandemic, the heartbreak of losing loved ones including pets, political unrest and bitterness, accidents, a horrible war, illness and changed plans. But there is hope for a new, brighter year. There's also the opportunity to broaden our horizons, challenge ourselves, click something off our bucket lists. Have you always wanted to visit "Godfather Country" in Italy and see where the film was made? Have you dreamed about seeing the gorillas of Rwanda? Maybe you'd like to take a relative to Paris to celebrate a graduation or wedding? How about a resolution to plan that longed for trip? Shake up your routine, meet new people, try new foods in new places, explore new vistas. Join us to resolve to make your dreams come true and stretch a bit in this first few days of the new year, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com And please share the links.

Dolphin bonanza: we happened to be on the water when a pod of 5,000 dolphins hit the coast off southern California. This close-up of one of them shows what spectacular creatures they are. THIS WEEK'S FEATURE: Whale watch! WHALE OF A TALE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS WHERE DOLPHINS ARE THE MAIN EVENT ON DELIGHTFUL ADVENTURE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Whale watching in Ventura THE MIGRATION of the whale is one of nature's most impressive odysseys. Being on the water to watch them is helping us cope with the emotional trauma of the fires so very near us. Every year, we passionately track whales. We've seen them on all seven continents. It's the most diverse critter we know and its presence in our lives -- especially this year --makes a huge difference. Dolphins followed our boats during a delightful series of whale watching adventures near Ventura and Oxnard. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoyed a week of whale watching with Island Packers, highly recommended for lively commentary and lots of sea life. A delightful fringe benefit of whale watching is the sight of beautiful and playful dolphins. Whale watching is really "whale waiting." Yet in dozens of whale watching trips, we've never failed to spot dolphins, often and before whale sightings. This week on the waters near Oxnard and Ventura, California, we saw whales -- beautiful grays and humpbacks. But the dolphin shows were beyond spectacular. Dozens of dolphins followed our Island Packers boat. Whale watching in Ventura WE SAW thousands of dolphins, including an enormous pod which thrilled us as they jumped and frolicked on port and starboard sides of the vessels, darting in front of us and behind us, in the churning waters of the wake as well. A sight to behold which made international news. TRUTH IS: where there are whales there are usually playful dolphins. They scout out the same food the whales eat and often lead the way for whales to dine, thus making it easier for us to spot them both. It's true that each year, gray whales undertake one of the longest migrations of any mammal, traveling 12,000 miles round-trip from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to calve and breed in the Baja lagoons, and the warm waters of Hawaii. But dolphins hang around. OUR YEAR started with success in a fabulous trio of Island Packers outings out of Ventura and Oxnard. The family owned and run operation knows the sea, dolphins, whales and sailing better than anyone. Owner Cherryl Connolly's late parents and her brother started two ocean adventures which merged recently to carry on the family tradition. Channel Islands casts whale magic A humpback breeches on the southern California coast. We have the good fortune to live close enough to enjoy sea life expeditions near home each year. We explore both in San Diego and up the coast in Oxnard and Venture, north of Los Angeles. The Feb. 6 column will feature new photos we're taking this weekend off the San Diego coast where 20,000 migrating whales are making their way south, breaking records. THE WHALES' remarkable trip is equivalent to traveling three times across the United States from San Francisco, California to Washington D.C. Imagine that. But don't overlook the pleasures of the dolphins. They're a huge draw for us and thousands of others. For while we don't always see an abundance of whales, we see dolphins every time. Resident whales, dolphins of Oregon NOW IS prime time for viewing these magnificent creatures: whales and their sidekicks, the dolphins. January through March is when whales migrate along the California coast, traveling mostly southward but also a few coming back north as time progresses. Most whales arrive to Baja’s lagoons during January and February, and by mid-March the majority of the population has reached the lagoons where they mate and calve. We've seen a few "early birds" heading back north in March, so that's always a possibility. Alaska's whales on a cruise DOLPHINS ARE whales, of course, and so it was a thrill on this trip to see several species, including the more rare "tooth whales," including the Risso's dolphin, named after the man who discovered them and closely related to the pilot whale. They're a larger, lesser known creature than the other two dolphin species we saw this trip, the common dolphin and bottleneck. In fact, the size comparison shows Risso's are more than twice as big as an average person. Most dolphins are about our size or smaller. One day, a pod of more than 500 "commons" followed our wake, playfully jumping and seeming to enjoy our admiration. Another day, we saw what a news team estimated to be over 4,000. A thrill. The Hampton Inn in Oxnard is conveniently located on a lovely marina, with whale watching nearby, ambiance, a tasty breakfast and views. The longed for "fluke" of a migrating humpback caught our eye. ISLAND PACKERS hires terrific naturalists and captains. One tip for estimating dolphin numbers: Count what you can see and multiply times six or seven. Usually, the number of whales can be more precisely gauged because they have to come up for air and their size makes that visible. Southbound whales usually travel in pods of two or three so if you see one, you'll likely spot them all. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he be photographer. Keller's Risso's dolphin photo with a comparison beneath of Risso to human. The approach to Anacapa is thrilling, with dolphins in our wake and seals and birds on the beach. Island Packers can arrange a hike or camping on the Channel Islands, or wildlife watching options on their comfy boats.. CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park is also worthy of a separate visit. We'll write about this wonderful natural environment down the road. From our boats, we saw sea lions, seals and island birds, and if one hikes or camps, the encounters with wildlife are even more bountiful. It's possible to enjoy these beautiful islands in many ways. We saw backpackers and hikers, drawn to these remote islands and back country for spectacular views of the beaches, canyons and inlets. But if your time is limited, you'll still in for a treat to simply stay on the boat. Options when you have more time include kayaking reservations, and special trips for school groups. Island Packers does it all. www.islandpackers.com www.reservationdesk.com › Hampton-Inn › Oxnard http://www.whereiscookie.com/2025/01/los-angeles-love-story-from-montana.html Coming up: Hollywood actor and special effects artist share personal insights into the tragedy. The beautiful Getty Center was spared during the recent devastating fires. It will reopen Jan. 28 and we will feature the splendid complex. ON TAP: After closing in the wake of the devastating Los Angeles fires, the Getty Center reopened Jan. 28. We're there to celebrate this astonishing architectural complex -- with free admission to beautiful gardens and priceless art. Then we're back with new photos of whales on their record-breaking migration as 20,000 grays pass by Sam Diego enroute from the chilly waters of Alaska to warmer waters south of the Baja. Then on to Spain and the museums of Salvador Dali and Antoni Gaudi. Back in the U.S., we visit New York's Museum of Modern Art, then hike curious caves in Barbados and Bermuda. Visiting art created by both man and nature is a theme for us, as we hop back and forth across the pond. We return to a favorite city, Barcelona, where we explore a city offering famed art, architecture and a delightful modern tram to the city's top. Plus a look at a Montana museum devoted to the work of renowned western artist C.M. Russell. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, art, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Oregon's lighthouses are a beloved part of coastal history, much visited and appreciated by locals and tourists alike. SHINING THE LIGHT ON OREGON'S LINKS TO THE PAST - TOWERING MONUMENTS TO THE STATE'S MARITIME HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER There’s something timeless about chasing lighthouses along the rugged coastline of Oregon. On this unforgettable road trip, WhereIsCookie follows the winding highway past dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and some of the most iconic beacons in the Pacific Northwest. From historic towers perched high above the sea to hidden gems tucked along quiet coves, Oregon’s coastal lighthouses offer the perfect blend of scenic beauty, maritime history, and adventure. The approach to Yaquina Head Lighthouse near Newport, offers a fine view of the seacoast, where nesting seabirds may be observed. Oregon Coast Lighthouse - those sentinels on the shore, saviors to sailors and an appealing curiosity to tourists -- are beloved across the world and particularly on both U.S. coasts. In the state of Oregon, lighthouses testify to a rugged life before modern technology. They tell of strong families and courageous sailors, of risky journeys and fierce storms. Nine classic structures -- from Tillamook in the north to Cape Blanco near Port Orford in the south -- take visitors back in time to learn what life was like for the keepers who lit the way and sailors who navigated the waters. A young docent at Yaquina Bay Lighthouse dresses in vintage garb to welcome visitors. We enjoyed commentary and a tour of the keeper's office, then climbed with her to the top of the state's highest lighthouse. MOST ARE OPEN to the public, offering a variety of ways to "get close-up." Some have tours and visitors centers. Others offer public rental space. Some are co-operatively managed by state, county, town and tribal agencies. Most are part of state or county Parks and Recreation Departments, which maintain them and the visitors centers. Several contain original first-order Fresnel lenses. Others are known for their seabird nesting sites, wonderful nearby hiking and enchanting tide pools. Each lighthouse has unique features. Heceta Head Lighthouse has admirably preserved its assistant lighthouse keeper's house, now a bed and breakfast, recently undergoing extensive restoration. Tillamook Rock Lighthouse stands grandly on a basalt rock islet and was once used as a columbarium to store ashes of the deceased. Cape Blanco is the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, commissioned nearly a century-and-one-half ago in 1870. Its history includes faithful service during the colorful gold mining and lumber industry days. It did service for more than a century, when automated equipment was installed by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1980. Friends of the Lighthouse at Yaquina Head Lighthouse help maintain the 93-foot tower, highest on the Oregon coast. The lighthouse is near Newport, 162 feet above sea level. BECAUSE OF THE various methods and agencies maintaining these intriguing monuments to past life -- including private ownership -- there is no uniform schedule or access. For hours and tours, seek individual web or phone contact. Indian tribes, for instance, own Cape Arago Lighthouse, near North Bend and Coos Bay. There's no public access but a beautiful nearby bay offers a fine view. We enjoyed the unique fog horn there. A GORGEOUS Fresnel lens is the star in the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. The lens has a unique design allowing a larger aperture and shorter focal length, projecting light over a greater distance. This friend to sailors and boatmen assured precious cargo made its destination. The Fresnel lens (pronounced "Fre-nel," with a silent "s") has a prominent place in any lighthouse it serves. Named after its French The Fresnel lens, left, gives ships far better light for navigation. a typical lens used before Fresnel. inventor, most of these lenses retired more than 20 years ago. In Oregon and California, they remain an attraction because of the superb craftsmanship and ability to concentrate light into a powerful beam. "Far out," as we said in the 1960s and '70s. Our guide gave detailed descriptions of the lens, along with lively lighthouse history as we examined tools, records and lighthouse lore. Life as a keeper was tough -- through all kinds of weather -- and included surprise visits at any time of day or night from the inspector. KEEP IN MIND that the lighthouses of Oregon also offer excellent wildlife viewing, situated as they are on rocky outposts. During fall, winter and spring, visitors flock to the lighthouses for prime whale watching, too. NEXT UP: Lights -- wait -- no lights -- but plenty of action We were snug inside, cooking scrambled eggs on the wood stove. We'll tell you how we cope with power outages as we play our version of "O, Pioneers," the wonderful Willa Cather book in which she introduces the land as a character. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us Fridays for each new weekend's post.

A seafood and pasta dish in Rome hits the spot for a special evening celebrating our anniversary. MEALS TO REMEMBER: FROM LAVISH  Visiting a market is a fun way to begin a visit in a city. Here, a guide in Porto, Portugal, shows off fresh produce.  TO SIMPLE, CULINARY MEMORIES MAKE FOR A MEMORABLE JOURNEY TAKE A CHANCE, BE DARING, TRY WHAT THE LOCALS LIKE Bruce Keller hoists a brew in Spain, after asking the waiter for a popular non-alcoholic local beer. Most countries now offer N/A brew, and some even have it on tap. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   "The Carpe Diem Kids" ON THE ROAD,  on a ship, in an airplane or while exploring a new city or village, food is always an enticement. It's part of the memories you bring home with you. Glorious food, enhances a road trip and enhances the travel experience. The pizza in the little hole in the wall in Naples, where the owner greets you himself. The lamb skewer in Mykonos, served with flair by a waiter who brought an extra table out to accommodate you. The special farewell dinner aboard a cruise ship, with your favorite coq au vin  cooked to perfection. This young Portuguese boy relishes his ice cream treat in a crowded cafe. The surprise birthday dessert and singing waiters who present it with an off-key "Happy Birthday" salute. The sizzling paella made on the street, served to two dozen guests after a festival in Barcelona. MORE THAN any other element, food shapes a journey.  It enhances and defines our memories of a trip. We're just days back from a five-week trip to Europe and consider ourselves amateur epicures. We love both good food and adventuresome travel.  Our fellow travelers around the world have epicurean tastes -- they love art, life, refinements and all that good food and drink offer. This paella was perfectly served in Tarragona, where it was the special of the day, wine included.   For us, having a meal in a new or favorite city, is an essential element of a trip. A memorable duck dish with friends, sublime memory of a meal in Porto. Why order room service when Las Ramblas is a block out the door or the Left Bank is across the river? Sampling local food is an essential part of feeling "authentic," taking the pulse of a community, getting an understanding of how people live, laugh and gather. Food shapes a community and tells the world what people plant, harvest, cook with, celebrate, season with, serve for friends.  Food makes us who we are. Mahi mahi with goat cheese offers memories of Hawaii.  DINING AT A STREET cafe with locals offers a sensory cultural exploration.  It makes us feel we are part of life in Rome, Tokyo, Rio or Singapore because local food more than anything else conveys so much of local culture, cooking and tradition.  In Barcelona, Cookie and Keller stop for ice cream.  It is on a par with the best Italian gelato. In a restaurant, we also see how people interact.  In many cities, dogs are welcome.  It is not uncommon to see a family dining with a doggie under the table.  Many restaurants offer water bowls by the door. In Paris, one "rents" a table for as long as one likes -- simply by ordering. It can be a full meal, a beer or espresso.  Doesn't matter.  The table is yours for as long as you like and we find it relaxing to linger -- watching the world and the people go by. A string of dried peppers made it safely home with us. ANOTHER FUN tradition we've developed over the years: we go to local stores and markets to bring a few food and drink items home: cookies, nuts, coffee, tea, dried fruit or peppers, chocolate. We buy roasted almonds from the old gentleman by the bus stop, and savor those thousands of miles away.  Think about the power of food.  It utilizes all five senses. Naturally, we taste our food. But we also touch it, smell it, savor it with our eyes and listen to it -- the satisfying breaking of a bread stick, the sizzling of the butter in the crepe pan. When we commune with food, the place and time of the meal or snack becomes an intense memory of the journey. Without a meal or ten in a local eatery, there can be no truly authentic travel experience. Arts patron Pedro Alvares Ribeiro talks about his passion for collecting, preserving and  enticing at his fascinating Casa Sao Roque. UP NEXT : A Portuguese arts patron made his fortune in banking, and decided to give something back. The result: Casa São Roque, a delightfully preserved manor house and one-time hunting lodge which dates back to 1759. Entrepreneur, art collector, wine connoisseur and world traveler Pedro Alvares Ribeiro has turned this fascinating building into an art museum showcasing myriad displays, visual treats including film, and much more. The home -- now a museum in Porto, Portugal -- has a stately air, befitting its history. Ribeiro says the architecture is typical of the elegant homes owned by bourgeoisie and noble families from Porto. He combines his sharp collector's eye with the soul of a poet and the funding to acquire unique artworks and exhibitions. We spent a day with him, enjoying one of the displays,  up now through Jan. 31. "Warhol, People and Things," an intriguing exhibition focusing on Andy Warhol and his influence across several generations of photographers, filmmakers, musicians and multi-media artists. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, performance, travel, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com . Please share the link.

Outside the Allen Elizabethan Theater, people take the summer night's air between acts. Next door, the Bowmer Theater has a play underway, too, and across the street the smaller Thomas Theater also has a production. ASHLAND WORKS ITS WONDERS WITH FABULOUS THEATER, FINE FOOD, GORGEOUS HOTELS AND MORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Set against the scenic backdrop of Ashland, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is one of the most celebrated performing arts events in the United States. Each season, this world-class festival brings timeless works by William Shakespeare to life alongside bold contemporary productions, all performed across stunning indoor and outdoor stages. Whether you’re a devoted theatergoer or a curious traveler, the festival offers an unforgettable cultural experience in Southern Oregon. A back-stage tour takes one behind the scenes, here into the Bowmer Theater where two of Cookie's seats are pictured in the foreground, and the bed frame from "Shakespeare in Love" awaits viewers. Patrons may purchase a chair plaque to honor a loved one. AS A CHILD, theater cast a spell on me. Its user-friendly witchcraft opened doors to travel and daring, shaping my imagination and enhancing my life. For decades I've enjoyed the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, viewing hundreds of plays of every genre. Contemporary theater and Shakespeare's classics -- with the fest's famous gender bending, age defying, multi-racial, shake-it-up, spin. Here in this small, village-like but hip southern Oregon town Ashland, the festival and its three distinctly different theaters offer more than the bard's brilliant works. A beautifully staged potpourri unfolds: new challenging work, time honored classics of both the American and European stages and the occasional musical take bows as well. This year's festival was a thrilling, exhilarating mix. Oregon Shakespeare Festival Ashland Hills Hotel has modern lounge area with a chic bar, featuring a bright "LUNA" restaurant has cozy seating and staff in casual uniforms, creating a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. THE LINE-UP REFLECTS Ashland's blend of sophistication and earthy appeal, its ability to satisfy town and gown tastes, to bring together in the love of fine theater, both city folks and small-town dwellers who have chosen Ashland for its culture and proximity to the outdoors. Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly atmosphere of the Neuman properties. To find a place that offers diversions both soothing and exciting render Ashland a jewel of America and the globe. The renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival reaches an audience approaching a half-million and its budget is creeping near $40 million. The fest is the crown jewel of Ashland's attractions, which includes two splendid sister properties artfully run by the Neuman Hotel Group. Ashland Hills on the fringe of town offers a tranquil, rural setting, and Ashland Springs downtown offers old-world charm, sophistication and proximity to the action. Ashland's main street at night shows off the beauty of Ashland Springs Hotel, once the tallest building between San Francisco and Portland. It is steps from fine theater. Both properties exhibit ambiance aplenty, friendly, efficient service, and fine dining in Larks at the Springs and Luna at the Hills. THE FESTIVAL, now a world class enterprise, was founded by a Scotsman, Angus Bowmer, who called Rogue Valley home. In 1934, Bowmer organized boxing matches to fund his deeper passion, theater. Cookie strolls in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre grounds, a beloved venue. As the play loving audience grew, so did the town's tourism. Today's Ashland also offers a delightful dinner theater, Oregon Cabaret; a fun movie theater, the Varsity; many boutiques, pubs, specialty shops, bars, unique clothing stores and art galleries. Ashland is also a foodie's paradise. We've dined in a bounty of fine eateries with family and friends from San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, Denver, Chicago and Billings, Montana, my home for many years. Actor Jennie Greenberry plays Belle in "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" and took time for a photo with a young fan. ONE ASSUMES that Bowmer's spirit is blessing the abundance. The clever, play-loving gentleman's dream that Ashland could support live theater came true. The boxing that funded the first plays was phased out, as audiences opted for Shakespeare, contemporary comedy and drama over pugilism. Temperatures last week topped 110 degrees in Ashland, Oregon as Cookie and Keller took in a raft of cool plays. This year's season at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has the "something for everyone" credo that Bowmer espoused. In three complementary venues, and 10 productions, one may span centuries, styles and cultures. FOR FANS of Shakespeare -- whose eloquence headlined the festival for decades -- four plays run in three venues. The time honored "Henry IV" pair -- parts One and Two -- is on tap in the Thomas Theatre, while in the Angus Bowmer Theatre, a magnificent "Julius Caesar" unfolds. "The Merry Wives of Windsor" is regaling crowds in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre. A gifted female actor delightfully renders Falstaff, one of the bard's most colorful creations. "The Odyssey" takes us on an unforgettable journey to ancient lands. The Green Show begins each evening with sprightly music. Oregon Cabaret Theatre presents entertaining theater and fine fare in a beautifully restored old church in Ashland. Because it offers quality productions and runs Monday, dark day at OSF, it is usually sold out. The season includes a memorable pair of world premieres, "Hannah and the Dread Gazebo," in the Thomas, and "Off the Rails" in the Bowmer. The Elizabethan also features a mesmerizing "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" with gorgeous voices. "Unison," with high-tech staging and versatile singers, honors the poetry of August Wilson. EACH ACTOR participates in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in one or two others. It's fun to recognize actors in the pubs and on the street, while on stage, observing them in multiple roles. "Hey, that guy played in 'Caesar' and now he's in an old-west hero." (Cicero is played by a female actor, too.) A player may headline in one production and join the ensemble in the next, since repertory means the shows run in rotation for the February to October season. There's an intense point each June when all shows on the playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. www.osfashland.org; wwwAshlandHillsHotel.com; www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com; www.LUNACafeAshland.com UP NEXT: The terrorist attacks in Barcelona and southern Spain -- beloved by Cookie and Keller, who will soon return -- have left Cookie depressed and determined to do something, even in a small way. What can we do -- as global citizens -- to halt extremism and take a stand against terrorism. Its most recent victims were simply enjoying a sunny summer day on Barcelona's famed Las Ramblas. What is our individual responsibility? Give it some thought, and travel safely -- with savvy and kindness -- remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Friday evenings when we post for each weekend, our take on travel, nature, the arts, famous cities, friends, family, pets and food. whereiscookie.com

Yorkshire terrier Nick enjoys the sun on a late-summer hike with us near Coos Bay, Oregon, a splendid retreat. This quiet but active corner of Oregon offers fine food, a paradise for nature lovers and a pampering hotel casino. If you are fascinated by bridges, make a drive through southwestern Oregon. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OREGON HAS a special place in my family's heart. And, like memories of family, Oregon's coastal towns have a timeless quality. Coos Bay evokes happy memories of a bygone time. It's retained that small-town charm that means the cafe waitress greets you and knows how you like your coffee. Yet it has big-city attractions and amenities -- a lovely resort hotel staffed by friendly folk, proud of the area and eager to share their knowledge. Fine shopping. Nature. Mill Casino Hotel is a beautifully built, handsomely landscaped get-away in southwestern Oregon. Thumbs up! PEOPLE GREET one another on the street. Yards are neatly groomed. Pets are well behaved, there's an active artistic life. The scenery is lush. We'd heard from writer friends about the Mill Casino Hotel and loved our gorgeous bay view from the hotel's pretty tower. There's also a cozy lodge with lovely woodworking. My half-amphibian partner particularly enjoyed the water life, for the harbor is the largest deep-draft coastal harbor between San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound, and is Oregon's second busiest maritime commerce center after Portland, four hours north. A variety of water activity unfolds from a room at Mill Casino Hotel. Pleasure boats, freighters with lumber, sand, gravel and other goods provide activity. The hotel offers free shuttle, parking and valet services, an attractive fitness room and welcoming spa, arcade and business center. We felt pampered with comfy pillows and some of the best hotel coffee we've had in hundreds of hotel stays -- Red Wagon Organic Coffee. Were it not for my gambling penchant and desire to try a few of Coos Bay's fabled seafood restaurants, we'd have little need to leave the room, but we ventured downstairs to squander some fun money in the pleasant casino, and check out the hotel's excellent eateries -- one casual, one more formal. THE VILLAGES of North Bend, Eastside, and Charleston cluster together near Coos Bay. You can satisfy your seafood yearnings in this picturesque part of southwestern Oregon. It has more fish restaurants than one can Captain's Choice Family Fish House offers pleasant, homespun ambiance, friendly service and delicious seafood. shake a pole at. Blue Heron, Shark Bites, Fisherman's Grotto all serve tasty fare and we made a second trip to Captain's Choice for its superb fish and chips. Keller, here, and Cookie, hiked around and under several bridges. . What we appreciated about this pretty, quietly busy part of Oregon was the mix of sophistication and "laid back". Oregonians, like my fellow Montanans, enjoy a lovely meal, and a top hotel. They also love nature. Hiking, biking, birding are favorite hobbies in this little corner of Oregon. We also noticed posters for art and jazz festivals, and sampled many homemade goodies, from a fantastic berry pie to gooey cinnamon rolls. And, like my native Montana, there's no sales tax, so bring home a piece of Oregon's famous handmade pottery -- and some of her delightful wine and beer! www.themillcasino.com; coosbay.org Keller and Cookie celebrate his rebound from liver transplantation aboard Hornblower, a favorite outing when they are based in San Diego. NEXT UP: Answering the request of more than 5,000 readers, we bring you up to speed with our transplant saga. All systems are go, including the green light to visit Montana this year, and make our autumn trip to southern Europe. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post our novel look at travel, nature and the arts. And click this link to refresh your memory of the transplant story: http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-into-light-with-merging.html

Stunning sunset over Vancouver from the Blue Horizon Hotel, which offers small, enticing balconies with splendid views. TOURISTS CAN HIKE, BOAT, WHALE WATCH, DINE, HOP A TROLLEY, SAIL, STROLL, RELAX, ROW A BOAT! Vancouver's night skyline is beautiful in the water's reflection. Harbour Cruises offers a splendid sunset dinner cruise with this view. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller enjoy Harbour Cruises' sunset dinner cruise, which offers a lovely meal, fine live music and spectacular views. VANCOUVER IS a city of contrasts, cultures and contentment. People from around the world call this vibrant North American city home. Tourists from an exciting melting pot flock to British Columbia's largest city to enjoy classy cuisine, gorgeous weather, world-class parks, museums and art. Vancouver is an attractive city, both fit and fun. Here, rowers navigate the waters on a relaxing Sunday morning. Vancouver combines a refined, civilized feel with a vibrant, fit world view. Stanley Park is a proud part of Vancouver's history, with lovely boulevards for strolling, a nine-kilometer seawall , fine close dining, aquarium and playground. It is one of Canada's best loves parks. Trolleys, parks, bike paths, restaurants, galleries, fruit and flower stands welcome the visitor, and we took it all in during our five-day stay. We actually extended our airline tickets from three days to five, so taken were we with this lively, worldly city. Granville Island is a treasure trove of shops, galleries, eateries and a splendid, popular market with fresh everything. Blue Horizon Hotel is central to the action. Its blue tiles are its trademark, but a pink roof glows at night. Stanley Park boasts many wonders. This Ontario tourist poses within a huge, time-honored redwood. WE WERE BASED at Blue Horizon Hotel, which epitomizes the old adage: "location, location, location." The downtown hotel takes its name from striking blue Italian-mosaic tiles which drape it. Its handsome, angular top is lit up, pretty in pink at night.We had a lovely corner room in the classic high rise. www.bluehorizonhotel.com We loved the location for its proximity to Harbour Green Park on the waterfront, with its highly rated Harbour Cruises, which offers a splendid sunset dinner cruise. We recommend the tasty, reasonably priced buffet with terrific music, best we've heard on a ship in 200 cruises worldwide. Try the holiday cruise with festive buffet and live carolers. www.boatcruises.com Cactus Club Cafes are sprinkled around Vancouver. WE DINED three times at nearby Cactus Club Cafe, not because it was our only choice in this foodie town but because its appetizers are fabulous. We enjoyed the tuna stack with a citrus touch, flavorful calamari, succulent mini burgers, crunchy edamame, spicy szechuan chicken wraps, delightful desserts, reasonably priced wines by the glass and even a nice non-alcoholic beer. Several nature hikes bridges and explorations await at the engaging and nature driven Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. There are several Cactus Club venues in Vancouver, each distinctive. A great find for us, this class act place with friendly service and delicious fare. We'll be back in spring. www.cactusclubcafe.com YOU won't want to leave this exercise-friendly city with hiking paths and thousands of bikers, until you've tried these other Vancouver experiences: *The Vancouver Trolley with its delightful "Hop-On, Hop-Off City Attractions Tour" which we used to explore Stanley Park, Chinatown, Gastown and Granville Island. All 10 drivers offered live commentary and fun stories about the city they love. It picked us up each day right at our Blue Horizon Hotel. www.vancouvertrolley.com * Granville Island and Stanley Park --- both worthy of at least a half day for the fun and attractions, shopping, dining, enjoying. www.granvilleisland.com Cookie's bridge-climb smile. *False Creek Ferry, which gets you from downtown to Granville Island in charming 12-passenger boats which encourage relaxation.granvilleislandferries.bc.ca *Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, like no other park we've explored anywhere. We climbed the famous 1889 Capilano Suspension Bridge and found the view breathtaking and the bridge "reassuringly wobbly" as promised. We took two of the entertaining nature tours, too! www.capbridge.com *Finally, for transit between Victoria and Vancouver, consider a relaxing trip on BC Ferries, which offers pretty trips in the Vancouver Island area, and along the picturesque Sunshine Coast. We loved our efficient trip from Victoria to Vancouver -- a quick bus ride just blocks from our hotel, to the harbour, with the same bus whisking us efficiently to within a couple blocks of our Vancouver Hotel. Four hours from door to door, a beautiful boat ride on a pretty ferry. Old Town Theatre is one of several exciting San Diego area venues serving challenging work, recently August Wilson. Paul McCartney gave a generous nearly three-hour concert days ago at Coachella Festival in southern California. UP NEXT: A glut of riches awaits if you happen to live in southern California and love theater and rock 'n' roll. If you are a fan of vintage R&R, you've been on a roll with Bob Dylan, Paul McCartney, Mick Jagger, Jimmy Buffett and more. Even if you don't live here, you'll enjoy the rich variety of offerings available for theater and music lovers. Tony Bennett's playing a sold out gig Nov. 5, and from cutting edge drama, to time honored chestnuts and vintage comedy, San Diego's your place to be for theater. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a lively take on travel, nature and the arts. Please tell your smart friends about us.