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Crowds on our recent crossing of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence illustrate the overcrowding which is taxing the patience and pocketbooks of locals, causing anti-tourist demonstrations across Europe . The complex problem of over-tourism is the focus of today's column.  We experienced protestors and understand their view. LOCALS PROTEST AS TOO MANY PEOPLE TAX FOOD & TOUR SERVICES, WATER SUPPLY, DRIVE UP HOUSING  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE MEYERS  We photographed this scene in the Canary Islands earlier this year. We viewed the rally from our bus. FOR THE  day first time in many trips to Europe, we experienced  "tourist go home" demonstrations. We sympathize with the protestors, but it's a strange feeling. We have mixed feelings about this phenomenon. On the one hand, we travel to enjoy ourselves, relax, as we spend money to take in familiar and new sights. We are courteous and tip well. But not all locals want us in southern Europe.  The day we docked in Santorini, above, three other ships were in port. Seven ships have docked on other days.  WE UNDERSTAND their feelings because while many businesses rely on tourism, others view increasing crowds as a plague.  They claim over-tourism  is damaging the land, economy and spirits. It's a fact that in some places, rents have more than doubled in five years and lines to access museums, buses and cable cars can wrap around a city block. Recently, we experienced crushing crowds in Santorini. This caused residents of this idyllic island to balk when they were told to stay home last week.  Why? Because in a single day, 17,000 tourists descended on their lovely land, famous for its blue and white architecture and hilltop vistas. One way to avoid crowds is to rent a car as we did a few weeks ago in Lanzarote. We saw protestors in the Canary Islands, too, where locals are insisting that the government rethink tourism policies. This "Tourist Go Home" mentality was on signs, on banners and on the lips of protestors as anger rises. Crowds and lines to book tours and get a table at a resident are a common sight these days.  It's a complicated issue. Over-tourism is putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing at the expense of residents.   Restrictions are inevitable as crowds cause a rise in real estate prices, environmental pollution, traffic congestion, general overcrowding and a water shortage. Crowds overflow in Santorini, awaiting sunset. Bars and cafes are packed these days; but many locals are not happy. Still ship passengers are flowing into southern Europe by the thousands. Venice is expected to attract 540,000 cruise ship passengers this year, a near 10 percent increase from 2023, according to the North Adriatic Sea Port Authority. As the city is overrun by tourists, a visitor's tax has been implemented. Cruise lines are now docking farther from city center which helps the structural and environmental integrity of over-touristed cities and ports. Of course it it makes transportation into "the action" more difficult and expensive for us.  Again, we understand and try to do our part to preserve these beautiful places for a return visit. Somehow, a compromise must be reached.    Queen Mary 2 awaits passengers in Southampton, where passengers board for a crossing to New York . UP NEXT:  The world's most famous cruise line, Cunard, has the corner on the market in a number of areas. For one, it boasts the world's only true ocean liner. We hop aboard Queen Mary 2 for a nostalgic crossing -- "brilliant," as our British friends say. We explore Cunard's small but stylish fleet of four ships which take passengers back to the golden age of ocean voyages. As a luxurious liner, QM2 sits sleek and sound on the water and can achieve higher speeds and smoother rides than cruise ships, which are designed for leisure and recreation. QM2 offers plenty of that, too. Come join us, remembering to explore, learn and live: www.whereiscookie.com

Yorkshire farmer and world traveler, John Speight, and his wife, Sue, enjoy a laugh with friends Bruce  Keller, left, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, with their dog Lola front and center at Primrose Farm. Greatly loved, deeply missed, he enjoyed life and lived it with joy, kindness and laughter STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   On Palm Springs tram, John and Sue are framed by Keller and Cookie on the world's largest revolving tram. JOHN AND SUE  have been our friends and fellow travelers for nearly a decade. Our friendship began at a table for six aboard a Celebrity cruise in Southeast Asia. We were relieved the third couple didn’t show up because we four immediately “clicked.” WE CELEBRATE  John's life here this week -- as his family prepares a July 3 celebration in England honoring his life. Sadly, John, 81, lost a ferocious battle with esophageal cancer which was diagnosed before last Christmas. He fought heroically in perhaps the only struggle he ever lost.  Sue, Cookie, John and Bruce share a tuk-tuk in Bangkok, where they spent time touring. WE DISCOVERED  we had much in common early in our friendship:  love of nature, fondness for cruising and travel, a yen for adventure and discovery, an affection for dogs and horses. The two were considering a trip on the Mexican Riviera, so we invited them to our home in San Diego. And when they learned we had a Montana summer place, they were elated. "Yellowstone Park is on our bucket list," John exclaimed, clapping his hands.  As our similarities accumulated, we found we both owned Yorkshire terriers. We had Nick and Nora, and they had Bridget, one of a long line of Yorkies they've owned and loved. They also had a bull mastiff, Lola, whom we would meet soon, just as they would greet Nick and Nora in visits to both Montana and California. Sue and John Speight have a smile and a laugh before an outing. John’s kindness extended to his human circle and all creatures great and small. On the last leg of a mile-long hike, little Nora stopped, sat down on the trail and barked to tell us she was tired. John scooped her up and carried her to the car.  He was generous, but frugal. He liked a good price, like me. He loved when I secured a 30 per cent discount at pricy Lake Hotel in Yellowstone, claiming he and Sue were fellow travel writers. TYPICAL OF this big-hearted, full-throttle man, he opted for the "full Monty" treatment for his cancer, undertaking a grueling battery of radiation and chemotherapy, dozens of hospital visits, doctors and consultants -- all the ups and downs that come with life-threatening illness. We shared many good times with John and Sue, and we will keep her in our circle of friends, one of the luckiest meetings of our travels. Bruce Keller, Sue and John Speight with Bridget spent  a day touring Yorkshire's beautiful abbeys and monasteries. GUIDING US , they shared their love of their native land in visits to Yorkshire's beautiful abbeys and castles. We shared the pleasures of a century-old steam train, a night at the theater in Richmond, and we four journeyed to the depths of a coal mine. In the U.S., we visited state and national parks, took back roads to show off our western farm and ranch land, introduced them to favorite hotels in Red Lodge and Palm Springs, enjoyed a Frank Sinatra tribute concert and in Las Vegas, a mesmerizing Cirque de Soleil show. In Yorkshire, John guided a tour of the couple's egg processing operation and the two told stories of rain-soaked rescues of confused chickens. "Well you just grab them by the neck, five at a time. Right as rain they were," John said, as we listened wide-eyed. John, Cookie with Nora, Sue and Nicky, and Bruce exploring on the trail in Yellowstone National Park. WE'D HOPED TO  welcome them back to Montana after John's full recovery.  It was obvious that John and Sue loved one another – adored is a more apt description of their relationship. Like the two of us, they laughed a lot, poked gentle fun at one another and finished each other’s sentences.  Speaking of language, John and Sue taught us a whole new vocabulary. Despite my English degrees, I achieved a new level of linguistics when I added these charming “Yorkshirisms” to my vocabulary: “donkey’s years, proper gander, right shuffed, crickey, Bob's your uncle and our favorite: gobsmacked." John Speight enjoys a birthday surprise during one of many American visits, here at La Casa del Zorro, Borrego Springs, Ca. JOHN PUT his heart and soul into beating the odds, but this kind hearted Yorkshireman crossed the finish line sooner than we all hoped. He leaves a legion of friends and a devoted family, a legacy of love and kindness, and memories of his Yorkshire practicality and wit and a sense of fun.  We are thankful our paths crossed for a delightful decade of shared love of family, nature, travel, dogs, horses, the occasional stiff G&T, tours of both our home turfs and a cherished, enduring friendship. Thank you, John’s family, for the privilege of asking us to participate from afar in the July 3 homage at 2 p.m., White Syke Fields, Sand Hutton, Yorkshire, a much loved venue for a much loved guy. With this homage, we are there. The Statue of Liberty is a glorious sight, here from the Queen Mary 2, as she entered the harbor to dock in New York City.  UP NEXT:  No sight is more beautiful after two months traveling abroad, then Lady Liberty. We set our alarm at 4 a.m. as we cruised into New York Harbor on Queen Mary 2. The captain had announced the arrival time the night before and we didn't want to miss it. For July 4, we celebrate our country's most beautiful monument and nearby Ellis Island Museum. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on friendship, travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Expert tango dancers move with the music at Pampas Argentine Grill. STORY: CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Is there a dance more sexy than the tango? Is there any ballroom movement more appealing? More showy? More bold and dramatic? In a lifelong fascination with the form, I've taken tango lessons in Argentina! That takes chutzpah! I've applauded tango shows every chance I get -- in many other places in the world, including smokey basements in Manhattan, and spacious ballrooms in London. Tango is intimate, calling for quick, decisive moves as a couple dances. Imagine my surprise and delight to find that San Diego is tango crazy! I love it. There are tango clubs, an abundance of world-class instructors and several venues which feature tango and welcome newcomers. A North Park Club even celebrates tango love on a regular monthly basis, with parties and dances every fourth Sunday from 8-11 p.m. It's Tango Addicts Milonga. (Google San Diego tango and you'll find a wealth of references and information and fine teachers to encourage.) A tiny venue in San Diego features magnificent tango in a setting that might surprise you!  In the heart of busy traffic and city life, Pampas Argentine Grill in a small shopping mall at 8690 Aero Drive offers enthusiastic tango and tasty fare. Legwork is part of tango teamwork. We sampled the enticing package with our sailing buddies, Melanie and Larry Cogsdill. We laughed and sighed and applauded -- a tango-tinged, bang-up evening -- and we recommend it to tango aficionados and fans of small clubs. The much larger and opulent Tango Del Rey can accommodate parties of 50 to 250 and is glorious for its decor and drama.  The intimate atmosphere at Pampas lends itself to tango up-close and personal. It's great to be close enough to observe and enjoy the chemistry between the dancers, and to see, savor and appreciate the intricacy of the quick, precise moves and steps. Pampas provides that, with a dozen tables and a small but ample square wood dance floor on which the performers do their thing. Tango has been around for at least 150 years, and most historians believe it was born in the working class neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.  Its success before and after the First World War took tango to international heights and its Golden Age from the mid 1930s until the coup in Argentina in 1955. For a time, tango was in the closet. The art form experienced a "dark ages" when the dance was pushed underground and persecuted, and the fabulous Tango renaissance which has spread the dance once again all over the world.  It's sexy, romantic, beautiful -- to watch or try yourself.  So I'm exercising, practicing my turns and polishing my red heels! Keller is hat-shopping! Larry Cogsdill delights in the dancers. COMING SOON : Our tango loving travelers take a turn at the glider port, sail on the vintage yacht Jada and celebrate the glories of Montana summer. Remember to explore, learn and live! Check us our Wednesdays and Saturdays at: whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy an afternoon at the Museum of Latin  American Art in Long Beach, where Latin American artists from around the world are displayed. Intriguing installations are part of the charm and allure. Here, a Marta Boto plexiglass piece draws Cookie's eye. LONG BEACH MUSE UM SHOWCASES LATINO ART IN BEAUTIFULLY CURATED EXHIBITIONS  The Museum of Latin American Art's impressive collection extends to an artful sculpture garden.   This Carlos Luna piece expresses duality, a theme of exiled Cuban artists.  Sculpture Garden provides calming and fascinating place to reflect on artistic inspiration and global talent  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ON THE grounds of California's first movie studio, imagination continues to reign.  In the enchanting Museum of Latin American Art, contemporary works by acclaimed artists from around the world challenge viewers and offer fresh perspectives. Friendly, inviting, interactive, MoLAA  welcomes, tests and teases the viewer -- urging him to participate in a new vision. Judithe Hernandez makes a bold, graceful statement in the museum's sculpture garden. She is an acclaimed Chicana artist. The museum draws from its extensive permanent collection to present deftly curated exhibitions -- while inviting new artists to explore their own worlds and stimulate our senses. Works run the gamut from whimsical to provocative, from classical to avant-garde. THE SPACE is unique -- open and airy -- lending itself to a colorful landscape indoors which leads to a calming and intriguing outdoor sculpture garden.  Long before Hollywood existed, pioneers in the film industry were at work in this unassuming space on Alamitos Avenue in Long Beach.  In 1913 in a barn near the corner of Vine and Selma, Jesse Laskey and C. B. DeMille rented the space to make movies. Fragments of the original building still exist on the grounds where Charlie Chaplin and Mary Pickford got ready for their close-ups. Job Garcia's imagination is front and center in works at MoLAA. They were instrumental in forming what would become United Artists, through negotiations on the museum's present grounds.  Surely their spirits are smiling down on this unique and engaging museum.   IT IS ONE of the premier Latino museums in the country and is dedicated to modern and contemporary Latino art. The museum's mission is to educate, collect, preserve, present, and interpret art for cross-cultural dialogue. Knowledgeable and motivated docents are part of the charm of the museum.. Here, Paula asks viewers what they see, and responds with insightful commentary. THE MUSEUM has an impressive docent program, with highly skilled volunteers eager to express their interest in the museum's history and extensive holdings.  Our excellent docent explained its merging of art, science and technology.  Our visit was enriched by Paula's erudite explanations of individual pieces.  She explained the often complex layers of a painting or sculpture, questioning us to draw our impressions.  This interactive approach gives the visitor a genuine feeling of participation and is gratifying to both guest and guide. Sculpture is represented in the museum's eye-catching and varied exhibitions, both inside and in a lovely garden. PAULA SHARED her pride in the museum's impressive permanent collection and in a cutting edge installation, "Arteonica," which explores an obscure but fascinating Latin American art movement begun 60 years ago.  Waldemar Cordeiro is the muse behind the exhibit which explores the state of electronic and cybernetic arts, "a verbal synthesis featuring the computer as an instrument of positive social change influencing both art and culture." Intriguing multi-media exhibitions at MoLAA invite the visitor into the artists'  imaginations. The museum's overriding focus is to create a dialogue between art and people, much as Cordeiro's exhibition does. MANY OF the museum's pieces carry political and social messages, conveying the turbulent and often tragic consequences of dictatorships, thousands of "disappeared" persons, corruption, violence and political turmoil. A "don't miss" feature of this internationally known museum is its gorgeous garden. The Robert Gumbiner Sculpture and Events Garden showcases an extraordinary exhibition of sculpture from MOLAA’s permanent collection. Gumbiner, who passed away in 2009, was a beloved physician and philanthropist was a major force behind the museum's permanent collection and laid the groundwork for the sculpture garden. Bruce Keller "listens" to this Lucia Monge installation a fascinating study of nature by the noted Peruvian artist. It includes drawings, real plants connected to a microphone. The museum is rightly proud of both its indoor space and its outdoor space, internationally recognized as the most important collection of contemporary Latin American sculpture in the nation. The collection has grown due to the generous donations from artists and collectors, as well as from long-term loans. The sculpture garden now presents a permanent display of over 15 abstract and figurative sculptures representing almost one artist per Latin American country. WE WERE f ascinated by the variety of bronze, wood, metal, stainless-steel and polychrome metal. The diversity is impressive, reflecting an intriguing mix of  Latin American art. Abstract works include a bronze sculpture by Peruvian artist Fernando de Szyszlo, a stainless steel sculpture by Mexican artist Leonardo Nierman and a polychrome metal sculpture by Argentinean artist Perez Celis. Figurative works of note include bronze sculptures by Guatemalan artist Max Leiva, Panamanian artist Guillermo Trujillo and Cuban artist Carlos Luna. The museum showcases art by a "Who's Who" in Latin American talent. It is truly a  fascinating place. More information: www.molaa.org -- The museum is free on Sundays. Ask about docent tours, well worth the time. The Palms at Indian Head offers a relaxing respite, a calming and lovely escape from the heat of summer. ON TAP : With summer around the corner for most of the United States and the Northern Hemisphere, we begin a series of summer enticements. A fascinating hotel awaits in southern California, the Palms at Indian Head in the fascinating desert of Borrego Springs.  It was home to stars of yore -- Charlie Chaplin  Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe and other luminaries escaping the rigors and demands of the Hollywood studios. You can book a stay there today to relive their glamour days with an Olympic size pool, beautiful hiking   and a gourmet restaurant on property. The Palms at Indian Head is a quiet, restful getaway and we'll take you there to enjoy. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more. Please share the link:   www.whereiscookie.com

Fireworks erupt in an artful arch on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu. EAT HEARTILY, RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH FAMILY,  FIREWORKS, NEW FOOD,  & GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A powdered-sugar dusted beignet with a frothy coffee hits the spot anytime in New Orleans, especially for  holidays.     IF YOU'VE ALWAYS WANTED  to try a new recipe and do something daring in the kitchen, why not now? For this, our third annual holiday recipe column, we offer a family favorite with an Asian twist. We're on the other side of the solstice, thank the gods, and I'm already getting seed catalogues in the mail. So I've ordered herbs for the small garden that will garnish many meals. Consider this recipe,  We cooked this jambalaya while visiting friends in their New Orleans home over Christmas. and think about next summer's garden between trips to the buffet table, stove or  cookie jar. Do make time to try a favorite recipe, perhaps something you tasted over the holidays at a company party or neighborhood soiree. Try your hand at improvising with this tasty "fork roasted" dish, char siu. Add some red or yellow peppers to jazz it up. I'm most resourceful in situations where innovation is called for.  It's time honored. What better time to improvise and invent then when you're a "holiday cook" Here's a recipe that cries out for you to make it your own. It's a family favorite -- a pretty, garlic laden dish using pork, beef or chicken. Char siu is  heavily influenced by Chinese culture and came to me in Asia. It is quick, easy and not expensive and makes a favorite, showy holiday buffet item, or on any special occasion when you want a fast, succulent and satisfying meal.  It's also a great choice if you like small plates for a main course.  Try it with a couple other dishes and present them as appetizers, making a meal of these instead of a large main course of only one offering. A dinner out at a new restaurant is always a good back-up at holiday time. Char siu literally means "fork roasted." Whether you use pork, chicken, beef or tofu, the point is to get the "char." Make sure the main course is patted dry. Tofu should be drained and carefully patted with towels before the quick cook.) If your cooking skills betray you, try dining out on comfort food. Clifton's in Los Angeles hits the spot. An appetizer plate of cheeses, pate, olives and fruit makes a beautiful nosh while preparing a light meal. SO TRY it for a special occasion or even a speedy weeknight dinner when unexpected company shows up. Heck, try it for  yourselves for no special occasion! It's the ultimate comfort food -- juicy pork, beef or chicken, nicely spiced, charred a bit (the marinade slightly scorched gives it its lightly burned sweetness.) Serve it with your favorite rice and a salad. This recipe came from a sweet old Vietnamese woman we met several years ago on a bike tour. She didn't have specific measurements (like my Irish grandmother.) So improvise and use your best judgment. By the second time you make it, you'll know exactly how much of everything to prepare it the way you like. As a back-up, consider dinner out at a favorite, close-by restaurant. Cookie met a Thai grandmother and they formed an instant bond, communicating with her Berlitz Thai and a fondness for cats and cooking. Ba Diem shared a recipe. BA DIEM'S FAMOUS CHAR SIU (Ba means grandmother; Diem means beautiful. This recipe is heavily influenced by Ba Diem's Chinese grandmother's recipe. You can make the dish spicier with more pepper or serve it with Vietnamese chili or dipping sauce. Rinse  and cut chicken, pork or beef. (3/4 pound to pound, depending on number of guests.) Cut into strips at least 2-3 inches wide and long or short as you like. Marinate.  Mix 3/4 to one cup of honey, hoisin and soy sauce to taste (1/4 cup or more each.) Add cup of Shaoxing wine or dry sherry, 2 smashed and minced garlic gloves, tablespoon of ground ginger, teaspoon of five spice powder, hot ground pepper if you like, generous white pepper. Rub it over the meat/poultry. Marinate overnight (or at least a couple hours) in refrigerator. An appetizer plate of olives, chips, cheese and sardines can make a light holiday meal. Roast. Let the meat get juicy and cooked through on a wire rack in a low oven. Put pan beneath for drippings to add to glaze. Make a quick glaze by bringing the excess marinade and drippings, plus a couple large spoons of honey to a boil. Generously brush the meat/poultry/tofu with the glaze and give it a blast of heat to char it. Slice and enjoy! Set your sights on something new, daring and exciting for the new year.  Here we are on NCL's new cruise ship Viva. The Speedway is a three-level race track.  UP NEXT: Why not plan that cruise or trip to Rome, Paris, Venice, Amsterdam, Oslo, Copenhagen, Tokyo or the Andes??? Maybe it's a cruise you're yearning to take.  Norwegian Cruise Line's newest ship, Viva, is made to order for fun.  Its imaginative design beckons for independent travelers who want the pleasures of cruising without the crowds. Artful spaces encourage small groups, gourmet dining or visits over a cocktail with friends. Our New Year's column ushers in 2024, with the hopes we'll stretch and challenge ourselves.  If you've always wanted to plan a trip to a specific country -- perhaps Ireland, Norway, Austria or the Netherlands -- now's the time! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a new twist on travel, art, family, nature and more.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER It’s  spring  in San Diego!  The dolphins  are racing, the whales are heading south and the harbor seals are giving birth! We watched with wonder for several hours this week – critters relaxing, playing, moving.  The dolphins are fast and agile.  The seals seem cumbersome out of water but they, too, have bodies of amazing grace in the water. The whales always intrigue. Dolphin at the bow! Wow! We’ve been dolphin watching with friends from Montana, enjoying the whale watching enterprises out of both San Diego Bay and Mission Bay. We can recommend both H & M Landing and the Quivera Basin whale and dolphin watch boating operations. Excellent naturalists give commentary on board and adventurers have the opportunity to watch the grey whales enroute to Baja to give birth – through March.  Dolphins aplenty are a bonus! These intelligent, playful creatures follow the boat and dip and splash along. If you’ve never taken a three-hour whale and dolphin excursion, now’s the time. (We hope to have Bruce Keller’s short but sweet dolphin video up next week.) Papa seal at the watch. And if you want to “seal the deal,” San Diego is the place. It is now possible for the world to watch the mothers and pups frolicking and enjoying the good life. What a treat. Thanks to a progressive move by city hall, a new “seal cam” is up and running at the Children’s Pool beach in La Jolla.   Installed above the lifeguard station, it will photograph the seals in action.  The mayor’s idea is to share this natural wonder with the rest of the world, sending out online video of the frolicking and birthing seals, creating interest in wildlife and giving researchers immediate information and photos. The seal activity is being filmed with a high-tech $40,000 camera which will be on duty round-the-clock.  The gift comes from the Western Alliance for Nature and the pool and its inhabitants will be on camera with state-of-the-art equipment.  The camera is equipped with windshield wipers for stormy weather seal-viewing.  Its infrared capabilities will even capture mother seals birthing their pups at night. Besides charming viewers – probably millions worldwide -- the footage will aid researchers at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration in their study of harbor seal reproduction. In the five years I’ve been a regular visitor to San Diego, Children’s Pool has been controversial.  Donated by the Scripps family, the pool beach was built in 1931 as a place for children to swim safely in a calm inlet. Through the years, the children have been outnumbered, and in the past 12 years, the beach has become a refuge – not just an occasional destination -- for harbor seals, since it is safe and protected from crashing waves.  The popularity of the area by seals has spawned a clash between naturalists/activists and people who believe the pool should be returned to the kids.  Others, taking a middle ground, lobby for a way for humans and the engaging mammals to share the space. Nature lovers enjoy dolphins, seals and  migrating grey whales.-- Bruce Keller photos  Last year the city split that territory, leaving part of the sand to beach-goers while ceding the tidal zone to seals.  Still, the camera has critics, some of whom claim it raises privacy issues.  Most people we know are excited at the opportunity to see more of these fascinating creatures with whom we share the planet and our ocean. See more at EarthCam.com or ht tp://m.utsandiego.com/news/2013/jan/31/new-seal-cam-streams-wildlife-footage-from/

Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller take to San Diego Bay and a Flagship dinner cruise, with spectacular views. TAKE YOUR PICK OF FLAGSHIP'S FUN, FESTIVE OUTINGS -- from whale watching to elegant dining Time to enjoy aquatic life, with a look over the ship's side. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE YOURSELF  at sea with a glass of champagne, a lovely meal, gorgeous scenery and the one you love. After a stroll on deck and a leisurely meal, he asks you to dance. It's your favorite Cole Porter tune. What could be better? Flagship Cruises has been at the entertainment business since 1915,  plying the waters of San Diego Bay and sharing the wonders of the beautiful southern California harbor and coastline.   San Diego's USS Nimitz Aircraft Carrier Museum, as viewed from Flagship. The Spirit of San Diego resembles a yacht or cruise ship, with daytime nature watches and weekend champagne brunches, and evening dinner cruises. WE RECENTLY  enjoyed a Flagship dinner cruise -- a nicely presented and tasty meal, with fabulous scenery to complement our gastronomic indulgence. We'd boarded with a celebrating family, honoring a daughter who'd just earned her doctorate.  Together, we watched the harbor fade from view as Flagship's Spirit of San Diego traversed the big bay, winding under the Coronado Bridge and into Glorietta Bay Marina with a spectacular view of the famous Hotel Del Coronado. As a bonus this summer, and into September, fans of fine dining and gorgeous views from the water may also enjoy fireworks over the bay. Flagship is offering dinner and dancing during the leisurely three-hour excursion, ending with fireworks over the bay. CALL IT GILDING  the lily -- the allure of San Diego's famous waterfront, kicked up a notch with fireworks. Dates are July 29-30, and Aug. 5, 6, 12, 13, 19, 20, 26 and 27. The fireworks-dinner combo continues through Sept. 3. A celebrating family poses for the photographer, celebrating a graduation. WE THOUGHT  of our a recent cruise ship adventure as we boarded the elegant double-decker Spirit.  We strolled the 2,700-square foot observation deck as we pulled out of the harbor, enjoying a glass of bubbly, wishing it were a week long venture, not just an evening! That night, the Flagship clientele ranged from couples enjoying a date night, to three-generations celebrating a doctoral degree, to newlyweds, a bar mitzvah party and retirement fete. All were enjoying the impressive San Diego skyline from the lush outer decks and cozy cherry wood inner rooms.  Cocktails were We left our pretty table for a stroll on deck. available at several stations and a DJ circulated, schmoozing with guests and taking musical requests for dancing. FLAGSHIP'S  impressive nine-vessel fleet includes a new yacht, the California Spirit, the Princess, for fairytale weddings, the Marietta for whale watching, the Quiet Heart, and a pair of ferries. Glorietta, a small water taxi, is also under Flagship's purview. If you're feeling like treating 52 of your favorite people, the Spirit's VIP Captain’s Salon awaits, complete with tinted windows for privacy. It seats 52 guests and offers spectacular bay views. www.flagshipsd.com/flagship UP NEXT:   It's a doggone good dog's life, when you're a canine traveling with Cookie and Keller. Nick and Nora, the couple's Yorkshire terriers,   have logged over 60,000 airline miles (no frequent flier credit, darn!) and are always a part of the couple's road trips. Tips on making travel with pups easier for you -- and your four-footed pals. Remember to explore, learn and live.  Keller takes a trip to Avalon, Catalina Islands, with Nora having a wee siesta while Cookie and Nick take photos! Tips on making pet travel both fun and relaxing.

When the grey whale "breathes," it's through his blowhole, the equivalent of a nostril, a magnificent sound and sight. SETTING SAIL IN SEARCH OF THE GREY WHALE YIELDS PLEASURES GALOR AND LESSONS ON ECOLOGY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Around the blowhole are both lice and barnacles. Neither does harm. Barnacles on the grey whale are kind of hitchhikers, using the whale for free transport while they hunt for food. Whale lice are also found on this whale, and they pick off pieces of dead skin and flesh. WHAT COULD  be more exciting than looking a grey whale in his gorgeous eye, being so close you can hear the sounds of his blow, marveling at the barnacles encrusted on his hide. Yes, if you're quiet, you can really hear the sound of his blowhole -- a mighty whosh of air expulsion. Thus the expression, "thar she blows." EACH YEAR, more than 20,000 gray whales make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey from Alaskan waters to the lagoons of Baja California, where Flagship departs daily from mid-December into April for whale watching from San Diego Bay. Scripps Aquarium naturalists enhance the experience. Keller and  Cookie on the whale trail -- this time, they spotted seven whales. the females give birth to their calves. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- on the several boats offered by Hornblower, Flagship and a couple smaller venues. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he can take photos and enjoy the spectacle.  WE CAN CATCH  the grey whales multiple times during their coming and going -- because after spending time in warm Baja California waters so their young can grow strong, they make the journey north again later in spring. This remarkable trip represents the longest known distance any mammal migrates on an annual basis and for this Montana girl and my San Diego born partner, it is an extraordinary spectacle to observe. This year, we've been out a seven times, exploring the 70 miles of coastline in the migration path.  We've seen whales every time -- now nearly 40 outings in the near decade I've been a grateful part-time San Diegan. Michael, a knowledgeable Hornblower volunteer, instructs kids on baleen, made of the same keratin as our finger nails. Gentle touching is allowed as part of the teaching. While we've observed the aquatic parade of gentle giants from land -- at the Torrey Pines Glider Port, Cabrillo National Monument, the lovely Birch Aquarium and from our favorite picnic spot in the La Jolla hills, we prefer spotting them on the water.  Then we can see the rainbow in the spray from the blow and hear them breathing.  We can even see the lice and barnacles that grip their skin for a free ride -- and we can admire the baleen which acts as a food filter as they suck in the water and its contents, straining the protein rich fish and shrimp for nutrition. WHILE HORNBLOWER  has a delightful arsenal of knowledgeable volunteers and naturalists, all the whale watching ships have articulate, passionate friends of the whale aboard. Flagship's are from Birch Aquarium. Hornblower's are from the San Diego Museum of Natural History. Flagship's Patriot also offers a high-speed chance for a thrill ride of your life We always chat with the naturalists, and learn something each time. We've delighted in our study of the greys, who usually travel alone or in pods of two or three. We've seen more -- in peak migration season -- each one about the width of a basketball court.  They always know we're nearby and don't seem to mind. They travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from about five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Playful dolphins are a bonus on a whale watch. Check out Hornblower, Flagship and San Diego Whale Watch websites if you've got company coming -- for an experience unique to San Diego:   flagshipsd.com  or   hornblower.com    You'll board either one on North Harbor Drive just south of Broadway Pier. Please don't overlook San Diego Whale Watch, which boards from "the other bay," much smaller Mission Bay near SeaWorld.   Both spirited and knowledgeable, naturalist Dani adds immensely to the pleasure and education of the day. sdwhalewatch.com . The whale experts from all three operations enhance the outings, and you'll be amazed that each venture is different from all others -- sometimes hundreds of dolphins escort the ship. Occasionally, whales are spotted just a mile or so out. Other times, particularly with the more illusive northbound whales, they might not appear until near the end of the three-hour venture. You may be able to get a close-up view of a whale. Perhaps  even a turtle.  Connecting with another species: priceless. We've NEVER  failed to see at least a couple whales whenever we go, morning or afternoon, December or April. FOOD AND DRINK  are available on all the vessels.  But the best "food" is the mental and emotional nourishment you'll enjoy. BEST BETS:  If you're a theater buff anywhere on the North American continent, head to San Diego for a fabulous array of quality productions as this lively community celebrates Theatre Week. Behold and buy tickets for  a variety of riches from comedy to tragedy and musicals: sandiegotheatreweek.com/theatre   Clifton's is downtown Los Angeles is a splendid survivor of the cafeteria age. NEXT UP : Venture down the rabbit hole when you visit Clifton's in Los Angeles. California’s lone survivor from the Golden Age of cafeterias gives new meaning to  "dining experience" with stuffed animals, a giant tree growing  through a couple floors, a “Cabinet of Curiosities” and more to celebrate California’s diverse natural and cultural legacy in a forest themed environment. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a twist on the arts, nature and travel.

A juvenile orca whale -- probably less than a year old -- was the star for passengers in Puget Sound Express. Watching an orca breach was a thrill of a lifetime this week on Chilkat. A family run enterprise shares 31 years of experience in Puget Sound Express. The "L" Pod was photographed off Victoria. Puget Sound Express shares its knowledge and love of whales in extraordinary top-rated adventures. ORCAS IN THE WILD THRILL OUR TRAVELERS, WITH HUMPBACKS APLENTY, THRILLS FROM VICTORIA TO JUNEAU STORY By CHRISTENE "COOKIE" MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I FELL IN LOVE with whales when I was a kid. I was a young musician and vocalist when I first heard that whales could sing, too.  I asked my parents for a recording of their elaborate vocalizations. Ear-popping! It changed my life -- introducing me to the lyrical language of another species. LATER, AS  A  newlywed, my late husband and I honeymooned in Maui and heard whales off the shores of Lahaina, the same year Roger and Katherine Payne's wonderful "Songs    of the Humpback Whale" came out. That 1970 album from respected musicians and "bio- acousticians"  showed the world that my revered childhood whale tunes were indeed communication: my beloved whales' complex and haunting methods of sharing joy, fear, longing and  more. Chilkat Express takes its name from the Tlingit native people of Southeastern Alaska and pays homage to the peoples' reverence for whales.   BRUCE KELLER AND I   have  followed the magical world of whales on seas, bays and oceans, and we are lucky lad and lass to follow them again in the U.S. and Canada, watching, photographing  -- and listening --with joy. Thrilling sight: three humpbacks feed, frolic in Alaska's Stephen's Passage. We were aboard a delightful Juneau Tours vessel when we found these gems. We're reveling in  early autumn whale watching out of Edmonds, Washington, finding Orcas, which are frolicking in the Straits of Juan de Fuca -- as many as 50 surrounding our Chilkat boat,   one of three vessels run by the excellent Puget Sound Express.  Three generations  of the marine-life loving Hanke family run the operation, which specializes in close-up whale encounters that leave shivers up the spine. Our trained naturalist, Justine, driver Brian and boat host Wendi took 60 of us into the Straits of Juan de Fuca,  up towards Victoria, where the orcas cavort, feed, feast on salmon and teach their young the whale ways. Our "preview" was a half-dozen humpback sightings. Each humpback has a distinctive tail or fluke, allowing Puget Sound Express to identify each and name each whale.  SINCE MY first sightings off the shores of Lahaina, I've   watched whales on several continents -- and in our wintertime backyard of San Diego.  Never have I had a wealth of sightings to compare to our day on Chilkat with the Puget Sound folks.  The crew knows every whale by name -- thrilling in itself. And for this "Cookie," it was pure bliss to meet a whale who shares my nickname. She's a revered auntie who helps raise the young.  Whales operate much like a kibbutz or my big Irish and Norwegian clan. They help one another out, share child-rearing chores, feeding and babysitting to give one another a bit of down time. SEEING THESE  magnificent creatures in the wild gives one a whole new perspective on their imperiled life. And using radio communication with fellow "spotters," moving at more than 40 miles an hour, you cover the waterfront with Puget Sound Express, which also offers three-day excursions to the San Juans with expert instruction on whale watching and wildlife viewing around Friday Harbor and Port Townsend. Our Chilkat naturalist  prepped us through Puget Sound Express for a thrilling two weeks week of whale watching. If you're staying in a Seattle hotel, Tours Northwest can book you for the Puget Sound trip and pick you up at your hotel. LATER IN THE  week, we had more whale thrills with Juneau Tours and Whale Watching. We set out in a 15-passenger smaller vessel, and  the whale revels continued (more next blog). They amped up aboard Royal Caribbean's Explorer of the Seas, as we exited the Tracy Arm Fjords and headed back toward Victoria, through a sea of playful humpbacks. Listening to the humpback's haunting song, watching them move in ice as tall as three-story buildings is bound to  thrill. Spending time with three pods of salmon-feasting Orcas on their Puget Sound kibbutz is off the charts. A well fed sea lion suns, snoozes. The sea lions are part of the "extras" on whale watches off Seattle and in Alaska.   www.orcanetwork.org   pugetsoundexpress.com   juneautoursandwhalewatching.com   UP NEXT:   Watching three generations of orcas an  listening to the humpback's haunting song --  watching them navigate around ice bergs as tall as three-story buildings -- all this alters a person forever.  There simply is not enough room in a single story to do justice to the magical, intelligent and graceful whale, and to the wildlife one sees on the whale trail. We continue our marine watch with sea lions, otters, and bears aboard Juneau Tours with 15 other passengers, then with a cast of thousands aboard Royal Caribbean's Explorer of the Seas. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us with a new post each weekend.

A gray whale breaches off San Diego's Point Loma.  The action isn't completely understood, but may be "spy hopping" to get a physical reference from the land to anchor their journey enroute to Baja to mate, give birth and care for young. GENTLE GIANTS OF THE SEA PASS BY SAN DIEGO NOW -- LISTEN FOR A THRILLING 'THAR SHE BLOWS!'     One of a variety of Flagship vessels awaits passengers for a whale watch. Happy Cookie and Keller at sea, on a successful Flagship whale watching venture this week. Several adults and a calf! A gray whale shoots to the surface to gulp tons of krill for breakfast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CALL US WHALE- watching junkies.  We answer the call whenever we're within 50 miles of a whale watching port -- anywhere in the world. But when we're watching whales in various corners of the world -- Hawaii, Mexico, New Zealand, Norway, Iceland -- we always feel a bit guilty. Why?  Because we have whales in our backyard -- beautiful migrating whales we can see from land or by boat.  We have the good fortune to follow them five or six times a year, here in southern California. We never take this wondrous opportunity for granted. NOW'S THE TIME  the great grays are heading south from the chilly Alaskan waters to either give birth, or fatten up their young and themselves in the welcoming warmth of the waters off Baja before returning to Alaska. A quintet of a larger pod of dolphin ride the bow wave of our boat as it pushes through the water in the ocean miles off Point Loma. Birch Aquarium docents explain and offer a look at tiny krill whales consume by the ton, through their baleen. Southbound gray whales usually travel in pods of two or three and each year, more than 20,000 gray whales make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey to the southern lagoons. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- often on Flagship, but also on a couple smaller venues. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he play photographer. While we've observed the aquatic parade of gentle giants from land -- at the Torrey Pines Glider Port, Cabrillo National Monument, nearby lovely Birch Aquarium and from our favorite picnic spot in the La Jolla hills, we prefer spotting them on the water. THEN WE SEE  the rainbow in the spray from the blow and hear them breathing. We can even see the barnacles that grip their skin for a free ride -- and we can admire the baleen which acts as a food filter as they suck in the water and its contents, straining the protein rich fish called crill -- a small shrimp-like critter which is the gray's main nutrition. Whale watching ships have articulate, passionate friends of the whale aboard. The spray of a gray whale creates a beautiful rainbow. A mile away, we see the  exhaled breath from a 40-foot gray whale. That's a thrill for whale watchers. Flagship's are from Birch Aquarium. THIS WEEK  we saw about 10 whales -- in peak migration season -- each one about the width of a basketball court. They know we're nearby and don't seem to mind. They travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from about five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Someone hollers "thar she blows." Flagship vessels offer wonderful whale watching as well as harbor cruises, holiday and dinner cruises, and a jet boat thrill ride aboard the Patriot.   flagshipsd.com  to book  or inquire. A group of small sailing tourist vessels await crew and  passengers on a sight-seeing tour. The hill-top city is behind. UP NEXT:  Santorini has an ancient history and a famous tram, along with volcanic sites and two major villages set atop the mountains.  As one of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea, Santorini was devastated by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century BC, forever shaping its rugged landscape. The whitewashed,  houses are distinctive landmark.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, family and the arts.

Tango began in brothels and tawdry dance halls to become a much admired and very popular dance form, known for its fabulous dancers and always a core of first-rate musicians accompanying. TANGO RISES FROM ITS HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO INTERNATIONAL FAME POPULAR WITH RICH AND POOR, TOURISTS AND LOCALS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER These dancers headlined a show at El Milongon in Montevideo. Tango excellence depends on quick, precise moves, as at Michelangelo Legend in Buenos Aires, known for its fabulous dancers and the city's best musicians. THIS WEEK, we offer a photo essay on the artful dance of tango.  We took several hundred tango photos during seven recent performances in Argentina, Uruguay and on our ship, Celebrity Solstice. With so many good ones,  we decided "more is more." We hope you'll enjoy. TANGO IS one of the most influential and famous dances of modern history, originating from the brothels and streets of 18th century Buenos Aires in Argentina and Montevideo in Uruguay. Both countries claim to have invented this favorite dance of European immigrants. Historians believe that tango evolved in the late 19th Century -- around 1880 -- in African-Argentine dance venues, This tango show was part of an evening celebrating tango's Golden Age, in Buenos Aires at Tango Porteno. expanding to other venues where dancing also took place: bars, eateries and dance halls.  In Buenos Aires, tango shows the influence of Spain's national dance, flamenco.  In Uruguay it blends African and Cuban influences, is less formal and invites audience participation at show's end. We saw the sensual, speedy milonga and habanera merging with tango in Uruguay. Some considered it a disreputable dance but it survives and is well loved today. TANGO EVOLVED. By the early 1900s it was socially acceptable. Tango's moves are fluid and graceful, a kind of ballet. The first documented tango music was published in 1910; by 1915, tango was the craze in fashionable European circles. Street dancers perform lovely tango for tips in Punta Tombo, on Argentina's central coast. It's serious business here, as these two busking dancers illustrate. Its popularity was evolving from the working classes to a dance form celebrated throughout the world, known both for its fine dancers and expert musicians. It has influenced the creation of many modern styles. Tango shows often feature other dances, evolved from Africa. Early tango was spirited and lively, but by 1920 the music and lyrics had become intensely melancholy. Tango steps evolved from early exuberance to smoother but still energetic ballroom steps and tempos. MANY RECOGNIZE  "Le Grand Tango," a spirited piece for cello and piano by Argentine composer Astor Piazzolla. The work expresses the vibrancy of nuevo tango --new tango -- a melding of modern tango trends with a nod to 18th century tango in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. flamenco, fado    The mellow squeeze box, called the bandoneon, is an essential instrument to tango. Strings, including cello, are also integral to tango. Tango has evolved from the favorite dance of  European immigrants, former slaves, working and lower classes of people to an art form beloved by all classes. Its quick rise in popularity enabled this famous dance to expand out of South America, to Europe, North America and the rest of the world.  Keller and Cookie pose beside a tango tableau at  a Montevideo tango show. Fast, sexy footwork and quick, precise movements  are tango hallmarks, here at Michelangelo. One is reminded of Barcelona's flamenco, because tango is influenced by that dance.     With its rich history, variety of styles, and undisputed appeal, tango remains one of the most popular dances in the world.   So who "invented" tango? The "credit war" continues in good natured fashion. Carlos Gardel (French born in 1890 as Charles Romuald Gardès) lived in both Argentina and Uruguay.  Both countries claim this influential interpreter of their favorite dance form.  Our tour guide had an authentic pumpkin gourd cup for her mate, and a thermos of very hot water to refill the cup as she and the driver sipped. It's okay to share a straw, she said, and they did as we toured. UP NEXT : Another tradition  -- mostly in  Uruguay -- is the constant consumption of a bitter tea, Yerba mate, also known as mate. The herbal drink is served in a mug, with hot water from an accompanying thermos. While it's a traditional drink in Latin and South America, it is most popular in Uruguay, where it is carried around by nearly everyone in two containers -- the cup with a bag of  the herbal tea ready to mix, and a thermos of hot water to keep the buzz going. The mate is made by steeping dried leaves from the yerba mate plant in the hot water.  It is left to steep and can be served cold or hot. We were fascinated by the proliferation of the mate cup and thermos on tours, in parks, on streets and in  airports and ferry stations. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, culture, performance, nature, family and more.

Cygnet Theater in Old Town is a fantastic night out, with a stop at nearby Hacienda de las Rosas Winery before or after. 'A CHRISTMAS CAROL' with a twist opens this weekend in at Old Town venue STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS                 PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  and courtesy Cygnet Theatre                                                                       Lively direction, fine singing entertained in Cygnet's "Little Shop of Horrors." THE WORD  cygnet means many things, from an obscure city in Tasmania to a fancy automobile, to its more familiar meaning, a young swan. "A Christmas Carol" promises the familiar story with a twist! In San Diego, Cygnet means quality theater. The delightful venue in Old Town serves up a feast of hard-hitting drama, musicals, comedies and just up, a new twist on an old favorite. We've seen dozens of fabulous productions at Cygnet in the eight years I've been a part-time San Diegan. "Sweeney Todd" was gangbusters, with actor-director Sean Murray a charming menace in the title role. "Cabaret" a la Cygnet and "Little Shop of Horrors" were delightful, too, and I've seen Broadway versions of "Sweeney," "Sweeney," "Cabaret" and "Little Shop." Antonio TJ Johnson as one of a magnificent quartet of actors in Sam Shepard's "Fool for Love." Sean Murray wins accolades for both direction and acting. SPEND  part of each year in London, where  "Noises Off" remains a favorite in my West End repertoire.  Cygnet's lively  production held its own against the formidable London version. Ditto for Cygnet's "A Glass Menagerie." Hacienda de las Rosas Winery offers  fun before or after a Cygnet play. CYGNET'S 'MAN  of La Mancha," a musical I hold dear for having conducted 27 performances myself, was moving, remarkably true to the spirit of the noble Don Quixote. Sean Murray's portrayal of the idealistic dreamer of the title, would have brought a tear to the eye of Cervantes!  I saw Richard Kiley in the Broadway production and Murray did the role proud. (Murray's versatility garnered a "best actor" award for "La Mancha"  and "best director" award for Cygnet's cutting edge production of "Cabaret" with a female emcee!) Cygnet's name is a nod to the Old Globe of London, and its rival in Shakespearean times, the Swan. San Diego's Old Globe was honored and amused when Cygnet' chose its name. The intimate, award winning 246-seat venue is located in Old Town. RECENTLY,  we took in Cygnet's Sam Shepard plays, a pairing of two of the playwright's evocative, disturbing and elegantly written short pieces.  Stage direction was inventive -- again, thanks to Murray -- and the acting superb. Carla Harting and Francis Gercke were the tormented mismatched lovers, Antonio TJ Johnson the conscience/father and Manny Fernandes the play's voice of reason. Fantastic, thoughtful work. Cygnet's current season features a new twist on "A Christmas Carol." On tap: the perennial favorite "My Fair Lady," the provocative Pulitzer Prize nominee, "Sons of the Prophet" and more: www.cygnettheatre.com And try this pairing: before or after Cygnet, we like to visit Old Town's nearby Hacienda de las Rosas Winery for a glass: www.sdwinery.com COMING SOON:  Acting, performance and the lively characters who make the magic... these all play parts in our novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," hot off the presses on Amazon eBooks.   How did we come up with these characters, their values and eccentricities? A famous Broadway director played into the story. Remember:  carpe diem!  Take time to explore, learn and live, and visit of Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com CLICK HERE ==>> Lilians Last Dance  e-book on Amazon ( This review is from: Lilian's Last Dance (Kindle Edition) Here's what Billings, Montana reader, Carole W. Baumann said: "Such an entertaining read about the beginning film industry and the traveling showmen that bring it to life as they cross the nation. "Lilian's Last Dance" informs as it amuses the reader."