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A helicopter weaves through the rocks of Sedona's fabled landscape. Passengers number only six, plus the pilot. It's an exciting way to travel through the historic countryside at close-up range. FLYING SKY HIGH ABOVE SEDONA'S ANCIENT WONDERS OFFERS THRILLS EVEN FOR COWARDS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller prepare to board Sedona Air Tours for a spectacular ride, below left.   FOR A COWARD , a helicopter ride could make hands shake, teeth rattle and knees quiver. Not with a calm pilot, smooth flying and gorgeous scenery. So I summoned my courage and "cowgirled up" for the adventure. I was not sorry. If I'd been a chicken, I'd have missed a most spectacular 'copter ride over the red rock country of Sedona, Arizona. We chose Sedona Air Tours for its well maintained 'copters and stellar safety record and reputation for fun.  Our pilot, Joseph, immediately put my jitters to rest. His confident way in the cockpit complemented a soothing commentary as we glided smoothly over ancient rock formations where dinosaurs once roamed.  "How long ago was the dinosaur era?" a fellow passenger asked. Joseph explained that geologically, the history of Sedona began a staggering 500 million  years ago. Over 300 million years, the land was alternately ocean bottom and coastal plain. Sedimentary layers of sandstone formed, inviting life.  So the reign of the dino kingdom was between 200 and 65 million years ago. We were stepping back in time.  SEDONA'S WONDERS  are world famous.  The natural beauty of its gorgeous red rock formations make it popular with naturalists, geologists and students of history. And in the last half century, Sedona has also gained fame as a haven for spiritual wellness. The helicopter's controls are in view as one glides over the landscape. Numerous energy vortexes encompass the region and that attracts another group of fans. We're open to all interpretations and appreciations. The undeniable beauty of the land remains, no matter one's spiritual or religious philosophy. SEDONA AIR Tours offers several options to 'copter over Sedona.  The "Hog Wild" tour winds leisurely around the area's iconic rock formations and the Western Wilderness Canyons.  Through the years, people have given names to these fascinating shapes. The narrative helps to explain their monikers -- helpful if you can't discern "Snoopy" right away.  The "Ancient's Way" takes passengers over Dry Creek and Secret Canyon, Long Canyon and Boynton Canyon, with close-up views of the ancient and fascinating Sinagua cliff dwellings. Cocks Comb and Doe Mesa are also on the docket. "Bear Wallow" soars over the red rock formations, with an eye level view of Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock and the striking Chapel of the Holy Cross. Passengers are close together. SNOOPY ROCK  and Bear Wallow Canyon await on this tour, too. One can also book a 'copter flight over the Grand Canyon, past the Verde Valley. One tour offers a landing in the canyon's bottom, a narrated Colorado River boat trip and return to the top of the canyon's rim for lunch, a trek on the famous Canyon Skywalk and a visit to a Native American village before heading back to Sedona. My favorite fellow passenger called it "a magic flight over surreal canyons for eye-to-eye contact with nature's magnificence. It's a glimpse into the world of prehistoric man, with a close-up view of the living quarters of original inhabitants."   Ancient cliff dwellings are visible from a helicopter, which allows one to see the detail. The company has been operating over 20 years. Pilots are commercially rated with thousands of flight hours. They're also enthusiastic history buffs and love to share their knowledge. Because of the closeness to the land, we were, as my pal aptly put it, "Immersed in   the sights -- rather than high above them."  Yes, for a time, we wound through the rocks, and it was wonderful! SedonaAirTours.com 928-204-5939 American Cruise Lines' sleek modern ship, American Harmony,  offers state-of-the-art riverboat cruising in the United States. The line offers a variety of small-ship luxury, "safe" cruises. UP NEXT:   What's up with the cruise industry now that travelers are getting vaccinated? We'll update readers on trends, new itineraries, changing focus from cruise companies, updated CDC guidelines for cruising and more. It's a new world on the high seas, with restrictions and foreign ports an unknown as a result of the pandemic. To play it safe,  American Cruise Lines offers a unique variety of all-American cruise options from the Mississippi to Pacific Northwest, coastal New England and more. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Singer Tony Bennett with Lady Gaga, on their "Cheek to Cheek" world tour, photographed during a New Year's Eve concert in 2014. Bennett's memory had not yet begun to fail him and when it did a year later, his concerts kept him sharp and engaged.   He continues to rehearse twice weekly despite Alzheimer's . --Bruce Keller photo  DESPITE ALZHEIMER'S, EACH DAY IS A GIFT TO LEGENDARY SINGER Some day, when I'm awfully low When the world is cold I will feel a glow just thinking of you And the way you look tonight... Jerome Kern Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga jazz it up on stage in "The Lady Is a Tramp," in a 2015 concert. The singer still rehearses. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE'VE HAD MANY magical nights in our life. Those "pinch yourself" times when we float through the evening in a fog of hold-handing contentment. A play. A concert. Celebration. To life! New Year's Eve, 2014, goes to the top of our "hit parade" list. Tony and wife Susan stroll each day. We were in Las Vegas to see  Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga. Securing the tickets -- the most we've ever paid for any performance anywhere -- was like participating in a feeding frenzy. I was poised at the computer when the show went on sale one fall morning at 6 a.m. The concert sold out in 11 minutes and my shaky hands were rewarded with a pair of second-row orchestra center seats. THE SHOW  was spectacular, 90 minutes of non-stop, first-rate wonder. Tony Bennett at his last concert before Covid  cancelled the rest of his tour, March 2020. Only years later did we learn he began to experience memory lapses the next year. We saw him several times since that memorable New Year's Eve. His shows were flawless, introductions of his band precise and unhesitating. That's because he works at his memory, despite being diagnosed with Alzheimer's. He rehearses twice a week, takes daily walks with wife Susan and has not ruled out another concert when the pandemic eases.  His family, Gaga, his band and others in his circle knew about the diagnosis and a few weeks ago the public knew, through his sharing of his condition with the national AARP magazine.    WE NOTICED Gaga's loving touches on stage, in the three concerts with the two of them. She was spirited but careful in their dance sequences. Their affection for one another showed as they twirled about the stage.   Tony Bennett began painting decades ago, and still paints in his Manhattan studio. This photo is a decade-plus old, but the lower one is current. He was in top form, riding high on the success of the pair's "Cheek to Cheek" album.  The two met ten years ago in 2011 when Gaga was still in her 20s, a 60-year age spread.   Now Bennett is 94 and Gaga turned 35 in March. Their meeting was at a benefit for the Robin Hood Foundation, and Bennett approached Gaga after her performance, to compliment her jazzy, bluesy style. He compares her to the great female vocalists of his early career -- Ella Fitzgerald and Rosemary Clooney and considers her a natural born jazz singer.   Famous for collaborations, he asked if she wanted to record a jazz duet album and the rest is history. Their Grammy winning "Cheek to Cheek" launched a world tour and their friendship remains solid. Gaga says she's still "getting over" Bennett's compliments, and his seeking her out as a partner. WE FOLLOWED  the tour to two other cities and still listen to our "Cheek to Cheek" CD and its delightful tunes, all of which they sang in concert. "I Won't Dance," "The Lady Is a Tramp" and "It Don't Mean a Thing" are our favorites, besides the title song. A recent photo of Tony Bennett in his New York home.  He paints and sings to combat his illness. FRIENDS SAY the pandemic has been difficult for him, but he still paints and sings a set twice a week. They confirm that the cancellation of concerts and  absence of the life-enhancing stimuli of audience and fellow musicians has no doubt set him back. Born in Queens, the acclaimed artist has lived in several cities but has come full circle back to the Big Apple where he and his wife, Susan Crow, live in a luxurious condo in Central Park West.  Bennett continues to practice, rehearsing a 90-minute set twice a week with Lee Musiker, his longtime pianist. Although the grim circumstances of his illness and the pandemic have impacted Bennett's memory and ability to communicate, friends say his recollection of lyrics and melodies remains remarkable. The healing power of art and music!   Hilton Hawaiian Village offers a stunning mix of trees, flowers, sculpture, relaxing hotels, pools and a lagoon . UP NEXT:  A tropical wonderland awaits in Honolulu at Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort.  The beautiful Honolulu property boasts gorgeous grounds with several artfully designed pools, a complex of plush hotels of varying styles, restaurants both lavish and casual, a nightly luau, inviting lagoon for snorkeling. Set on 22 acres of prime, tranquilizing, bird-friendly Honolulu landscaping, the property offers many boating options. Entertainment ranges from lei making to hula classes and ukulele lessons. It's waiting for you. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a refreshing take on the arts, nature, travel, family and more: whereiscookie.com

MONTANA'S GRAND HOTEL  WILL RECLAIM ITS FORMER GRANDEUR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The colorful bar is the backdrop as Kim Germain and daughter Jessica take a break from work. A LONGTIME FRIEND of Montana, her husband and her daughter are giving new life to Big Timber's historic Grand Hotel, with hopes to make it truly grand again. Kim Germain, husband Steve and daughter Jessica have begun a grand plan to renovate and restore the 1890 hotel, beginning with cosmetic touches on the ground floor and working upstairs to the guest rooms. Taking on the challenge of restoring a beloved town landmark is no easy task, but the Germains are up to it. 'WE RELIAZE  that people don't particularly like change," says Kim, "and we also know how much fondness people have for the place." The family gatherings,  wedding receptions, wakes, special brunches and dinners, anniversaries and birthdays -- everyone here has a memory featuring the Grand Hotel." Germain sees the Grand as "the grand dame of the town.  She deserves to be loved and cared for and that's what we're doing." A relaxed, western theme greets visitors to the Grand Hotel, here the recently remodeled lobby. Germain has lived in several states including Michigan, Arizona and Ohio, with multiple visits to Montana where she has an aunt in Billings.  Her family roots are anchored in the land -- dairy farming and ranching on both sides--  and her affection for Montana is deep and sincere. She has farming cousins and a close relative who excels in competition penning.  She loves rodeos and plans live music around those and other special events in Big Timber and nearby.  After purchasing the place nearly five years ago, the Germains set to work. A warm, western feel pervades the Grand Hotel dining room, where guests can relax with western art in a casual, yet elegant atmosphere. Both lunch and dinner are served Tuesday-Saturday. KIM SAYS with a laugh, that the purchase came about "because we needed a place to stay while we were looking for property on the Yellowstone." Behind funding the two Yellowstone properties and buying the hotel is the family's successful, multi-state car dealership. "We're a fourth generation business," says Jessica proudly.  Diving into the hospitality industry has been a good experience for the family, she says. "It's a learning curve but we have the enthusiasm to do it, and we're always listening to the people." The family originally bought undeveloped riverfront property intending to build a ranch style home on the Yellowstone, That plan changed when a developed property came up for sale. "It looked perfect -- it already had a ranch house and looked beautiful from the ads," Kim says.  She sent her agent to have a look and bought the place on her recommendation. "I asked her if it was as pretty as it looked on line and she said it was. I'm given to impulse sometimes." That purchase allowed more time for the hotel project, which began with a redo of the ground floor's popular dining room, the bar area and the welcoming lobby. The second-floor suite the family uses were also completed.  A comfortable, ranch style motif enhances the design which the Germains developed with the guidance of a decorator from Phoenix base.   Challenges to renovating an 1890 building in a small town include dealing with old plumbing and wiring issues and securing and retaining reliable help. "We have a great manager now, and other hard working staff," says Kim. We dealt with two excellent employees: the gracious hotel manager Stacey and cheerful front desk manager Rio, who came in on his day off to welcome us. "We've had to enlist Billings people for some of the repairs."   The menu was also kicked up a notch, with Montana beef featured for lunch and dinner and a variety of enticing soups, salads, pastas, lamb and buffalo. Reservations are needed for the formal dining room but not for sandwiches and appetizers in the bar which offers a range of spirits and many beer options. The restaurant will soon be open 7 days instead of the present five, Kim hopes. VISITORS TODAY enjoy the pleasantly decorated lobby downstairs and an inviting sitting and visiting area upstairs.  A tidy small kitchen boasts a refrigerator and freezer, coffee maker and microwave.  Rooms include both those with in-suite bathrooms and those with shared bath.  A complex of showers, tubs and basins is meticulously maintained in the central area upstairs, which also offers a sauna. Rates range from $129 for room with shared bath, to $189 for a king-size bed, bath and daybed, to $369 for the suite. Pets may accompany owners with prior notice and $20 fee. The hotel also has a low-allergy room accessible by stairs in which no animals are allowed. Recent guests at The Grand include this group of actors from Montana Shakespeare in the Parks, and five fishermen from five states who stage an annual fishing trip and reunion at the Grand. Foreign guests are also frequent visitors. On our recent visit we met a group of five lively men, senior citizens who have been coming to the Grand Hotel for years to fish the Yellowstone and Boulder rivers. "We love the place," said John. "It's got character, history and nice people." We also met a half-dozen of the actors from Montana Shakespeare in the Park, which was performing that night in the nearby park. "We love it because it's convenient and comfortable," said the company's artistic director. "Great place with a fun, historic vibe."  To book a room or meal or find out more, click here A koala is in a contemplative mood. We visit two of Australia's nature preserves.  ON TAP:  From the lobby of the Grand Hotel to the koala forests of Australia, and New York's Central Park, we're there. In the next few weeks, we explore nature preserves in several countries.   First: koalas, kangaroos and other magical critters and birds welcome us to the wild side of Australia. We visit two internationally acclaimed sanctuaries in this vast continent, where we feed the kangaroos and hold the sleepy koalas. While we're in the neighborhood, we visit the Australian Museum of Sydney, a world class venue exploring cultures across the globe. There's a stop in store at Montana's historic C.M. Russell Museum in Great Falls and we offer tips on packing light and avoiding the pitfalls of heavy cumbersome baggage and extra airplane charges.   We're  a nature and travel driven blog, and appreciate suggestions and ideas from our readers. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and the arts:  www.whereiscookie.com

TRAVELING TO HEALTH WITH GRATITUDE, HAPPY HEARTS  AND A BORROWED LIVER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SEVEN YEARS  ago this week, I was frightened, pacing alone at 2 a.m. in the ICU waiting room at Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, California. I waited an agonizing seven hours while Keller was trading livers. It was too early to call U.S. friends or family, so I texted a friend in France to calm me. Bruce Keller hours after a successful liver transplant. THE TRANSPLANT call came at 10 p.m., after our usual Friday date night. I was drying off from a shower and Keller was just settling in bed. The call was 17 months in coming, as we worked our way slowly up the list. "Could you be at the hospital in an hour?" the transplant nurse asked. "Absolutely," we replied. By midnight, he was admitted and tests were underway to determine if the match indeed was a good one.   Date night turned transplant time Keller, Cookie, Nick and Nora on the road, one of many trips with pups, here in Lake Tahoe. A long undiagnosed case of "hep C" from a college transfusion had taken its toll. We looked The Grim Reaper in the eye. But through the miracle of a generous donor, an internationally known hepatologist and a brilliant Columbia University Medical College physician and his team, Keller recovered fully and we continued our life of travel and theater, commuting between Keller's San Diego home and my native Montana. Our treasured Yorkies, Nick and Nora, were part of our lives until they gallantly passed away a couple years ago. Dr. Jonathan Fisher of Scripps Green Hospital, and Bruce Keller, just days after the successful transplant. AMAZINGLY, Keller was discharged from the hospital in a record two days. I had been thoroughly vetted as his caregiver -- one must have an approved caregiver to be on the list --and Dr. Fisher deemed Keller would be more comfortable at home, if I were willing to administer 17 meds, change bandages, keep tabs and transport him back in a day for follow-up.  Dr. Fisher was astonished that Keller did not need a ventilator leaving Recovery for the ICU. His pulmonary prowess was the result of years of water sports -- sailing, surfing, diving -- with advanced degrees in scuba. When we decided to be a couple, we pledged that I'd learn to sail if he learned to dance. Promises fulfilled. We married last August, the only thing we've done slowly!!   Challenges of transplant recovery I HAVE WRITTEN  reams about the challenges of this enormous process.  It was not easy to consider the consequences if something went wrong or if he did not make it to the top of the transplant list in time. His liver was failing and without the transplant he would have died. Medical miracles are not uncommon in this day, but we consider ourselves fortunate. Keller, Cookie, Nick and Nora on the road, one of many trips with pups, here in Lake Tahoe. THIS MONTH,  in Italy, we celebrated Keller's Lifelong love of doggies , recovery and our 17th year together, grateful for surviving that low point and embracing each "high." We call ourselves "The Carpe Diem Kids" and truly live with a "carpe diem" attitude, attempting to be generous, thoughtful, kind. After 17 years together, the surprise wedding took place in Montana, during a family reunion. Wedding pulls one over on Cookie MY ADVICE to anyone facing a transplant is to join a support group, do as much homework as you can absorb, and be optimistic while understanding that things can go wrong but can also be corrected. For us, fortunately, things have gone mostly right.  Meanwhile, we've endured family losses, attended too many memorials, yet celebrated birthdays, weddings, holidays and welcomed two great-nephews to the planet. Cookie and Keller, with niece Amarylla, her husband Steve, James and Peny, in Hawaii. We have continued a life of vigorous travel, from Iceland to the Antarctic, embracing each day with gusto and the knowledge that we are all on borrowed time, "just passing through," as my wise grandfather Gus said.   Just three weeks after the surgery, Keller & Cookie got "thumbs up" for a trip to the Oregon coast for the wedding of niece Kira Cosgriffe to Mike Hill WE SURVIVED  the COVID years, with 341 games of Scrabble and every vaccination known to man. We've sought medical help a couple nervous times on foreign ground. All good. Traveling recently in Europe, Bruce Keller & Christene Meyers left, with Rick Cosgriffe and his partner Jane Milder at Rome's famous Trevi Fountain, seven years post transplant. SOME IN our situation would stay put, but that's not who we are. Our goal to see the world together continues. We take joy in each new trip, new city, new ship, train, plane. We continue to cultivate a cherished coterie of international friends. We appreciate each adventure, relish the planning and say a grateful "thank you" each day.  Tourists cross one of the park's bridges to admire scenery and take a boat ride at Grand Teton National Park. UP NEXT:  Summer arrives in our favorite national parks. Come along with us to Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier -- three of the world's most beautiful and popular parks.  As Memorial Day weekend approaches, the summer season begins.  It previewed in late April as the roads were cleared of snow. Then park facilities began to open on a staggered schedule. We visit in prime beauty, knowing the season is short. Parks begin to close in September, weather depending. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, art and life. www.whereiscookie.com

American Cruise Lines' American Harmony is an attractive alternative to "foreign port" cruising. American is cruising with 75 per cent occupancy, high hygiene standards and a negative Covid test.  CRUISE LINES PLAN TO BEGIN SAILINGS IN UK Cruise ships are readying to ride the waves again .  CARIBBEAN, MEDITERRANEAN; AMERICAN CRUISE LINES OFFERS APPEALING CLOSE-TO-HOME CRUISES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AFTER A BRUTAL  year, the cruise industry is making a comeback. Good news is on the horizon for lovers of ship travel, as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention updates it policies, shedding hope for summer cruising. This ship in the Greek Isles will be sailing again probably by mid-summer. Holland America and other lines plan to sail Corfu, Santorini and Mykonos, all ports whose tourism took a nosedive during the pandemic. Check your   cruise line websites or consult a travel agent. Many lines hope to be cruising again by June 1, with other lines following through the summer and into autumn. Most are insisting on vaccinations for both passengers and crew.  But even with vaccinations and a possible green light from CDC, it will take ships time to prepare, after more than a year of uselessness. STILL, THIS WEEK brought hopeful news. Those of us who cancelled cruises for 2020 and 2021, are encouraged that some lines are already cruising, using foreign ports for departure. It is encouraging, too, to see that the millions who make their living as cruise booking agents, ship crews and tourism workers will return to employment.  They all took a huge hit during the pandemic as cruising crashed to a standstill. Keller and Cookie catch the wind  two years ago in Alaska, viewing whales. Alaska and Florida  are suing the CDC for its decision to halt cruising to their ports. During the rough year, many cruise lines moved their vessels out of the U.S. because of stringent CDC restrictions. Most port cities have not witnessed cruise ship activity since the outbreak of COVID-19 in March 2020, except for the occasional "bare bones staff" ship coming in to refuel.  U.S. BASED  American Cruise Lines, is ahead of the "comeback game."  Its modern, small river and coastal boats are all U.S. built, registered and crewed, "and not subject to the issues other lines are," said Alexa Paolella, American's public relations manager. She noted that the line's CEO, Charles Robertson, is an ardent student of boat design, involved in the vessels' sophisticated blending of contemporary elegance with functionality. American's new river boats boast the artistic flair of a top Miami firm, Studio DADO, which works with other high-end lines, including Regent Seven Seas. American Cruise Lines' beautiful American Song offers    94 spacious cabins with stellar views. Here, she glides serenely along Pacific Northwest waters at sunset.  Paolella says many of the Connecticut based line's routes are selling out as deprived cruisers eagerly return to the waters. American's "close to home" cruises ply the eastern and western seaboard, as well as Mississippi-Ohio, and Columbia-Snake rivers, creating a devoted return clientele. Repeat customers enjoy eight-day Mississippi cruises, with an inviting mix of history, culture, food and fun, enhanced by stops in fabled port cities: Memphis, New Orleans, Nashville and St. Louis. For the true aficionado, American offers longer itineraries: a 22-day Complete Mississippi Cruise or a 15-day Grand Heartland Cruise, which remarkably explores ten states in a single journey. American also offers shorter 5-day highlights cruises, holiday and theme cruises, curated to celebrate iconic Mississippi themes, from Mark Twain to food and music. American Cruise Lines offers a music cruise -- here to see the bars and music hang-outs of Nashville. Many cruisers are looking for travel opportunities closer to home this year. (This piano player is excited about American's new "Music Cities" cruise while my foodie partner is eying the culinary cruises with Cajun, Creole and Memphis barbecue.) AMERICAN'S diverse repertoire includes riverboats, coastal cruisers and paddle wheelers with varied itineraries, "plus theme cruises and holiday cruises," says Paolella.  American's high ratings reflect loyalty of pampered passengers who sing the praises of the largest staterooms afloat, complimentary shore excursions and happy hour, signature perks since the line's 1991 inception. American makes waves in the industry, says Paolella, "because we offer the smooth sailing of larger ships with the up-close access of small-ships, and the convenience and security of cruising close-to-home."     MORE ENTICEMENT  for cruisers: Holland American president Gus Antorcha said in a phone visit this week, "We’re back!” The line has been preparing for a return to service during this fallow year. Holland will begin sailing from Piraeus in August aboard Eurodam with fully vaccinated passengers and crew. Antorcha said, "We are grateful to the government of Greece for allowing us to show we can safely operate our cruises."  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard Cunard Line's Queen Elizabeth before the pandemic shut down cruising worldwide.   ALSO THIS WEEK , Royal Caribbean, Celebrity, Norwegian and Crystal Cruises announced plans to restart. Viking Royal Caribbean CEO Richard Fain applauded the CDC for updating its pandemic cruising policies so his fleet can resume sailing from U.S. ports. "We’re pleased and excited because it sets forth a pathway that we think is achievable, practical and safe,” Fain said. Viking River Cruises, the first cruise line to suspend operations of its river and ocean cruises, is enthusiastically updating its cruise schedule. Monaco based Silversea Cruises, which pioneered all-inclusive luxury cruising with its sleek Silver Cloud, resumes Mediterranean sailings with its lovely Silver Moon. THE VENERABLE Cunard Line, founded in 1840, has been cruising around the United Kingdom for U.K. residents only and is beginning to reschedule sailings for its distinguished fleet: Queen Elizabeth, Queen Victoria and Queen Mary. Its President Simon Palethorpe said, "We know how much everyone is desperately looking forward to longed-for vacations overseas .''  (He is also president of Carnival UK.) HOW QUICKLY cruise lines can cruise again will depend on their compliance with the CDC's framework for conditional sailing order. Friends in Israel, England and Singapore are taking advantage of cruises for residents only; those cruises have been off-limits to Americans.   As of late Thursday, Royal Caribbean set July 1 for getting its ships back in water. Oceania plans August sailings, Cunard and Regent Seven Seas say September. Norwegian Cruise Lines and many other lines will insist both passengers and crew be fully vaccinated.  Once vaccinated, travelers will be able to take a rapid antigen COVID-19 test before embarkation. Self-serve buffets are becoming a thing of the past  as cruise lines do away with them, or offer them only in modified version, with servers serving.     MANY LINES have been redesigning and rearranging public spaces, including dining rooms, gyms and theaters, to accommodate social distancing. Buffets -- where they still exist -- will insist upon servers, no self-service. In a letter to the industry Wednesday, a CDC official said that "while cruising will never be a zero-risk activity, our public-health agency is committed to getting passenger operations in the U.S. restarted by early to mid-summer." All encouraging for cruise lovers!   We're fully vaccinated and our bags are packed. Sail on! UP NEXT : As travelers return to the air, Europe opens up, and ships return to the waters, there's hope on the horizon for cruise and travel lovers. The rapidly changing rules regarding the pandemic and travel are not easily understood. We'll help unravel the mysteries and confusion. Meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more, with our specialty: cruising. Please share the link, and enjoy!

"Cap'n Keller," Bruce Keller, this column's photographer, is a lifelong sailor who took the wheel of a Hopper Boat Rentals small craft recently on a leisurely trip through Oxnard's canals. Oxnard's architectural variety is pleasing to observe from the water. From Victorians, to unique stone and slate creations to Mid-Century Modern, it's an eye catching mix.  A BOAT OF ONE'S OWN Harbor seals greet small boats as they glide by; there is abundant sea bird life, too. (AT LEAST FOR A DAY) PROVES A FINE WAYTO SAIL CARES AWAY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE LOVE  the Channel Islands and make several pilgrimages a year there. Always on the trail of something new, we happened on Hopper Boat Rentals and spent a lovely afternoon exploring the channels of the tranquil, clean and not-yet-discovered town of Oxnard, California. Hopper Boat Rentals is tucked away on one of Oxnard's quiet little corners in Channel Islands Harbor. The rustic dock holds the Hopper fleet of a dozen or so boats, ranging in size from single and double kayaks and fishing kayaks to electric boats for a party as large as 12. The outfit also rents paddle boards for the more adventurous, and pedal boats for anyone out for a relaxing time. Lane Norton helps his parents at the family owned business. The business is owned by the Norton family; the parents started the business and continue to sustain it in office while son Lane works outdoors on site. He's an amiable, helpful fellow, manning the  harbor business, checking in passengers and keeping the boats clean and ready. He offers sailors a cheerful smile and a strong arm for getting on and comfortably seated, casting off then coming back in to port. Hopper Boat Rentals is tucked away in a quiet corner, offering relaxed viewing of a variety of other water craft. You can rent by the hour, for an afternoon or a day, in small or larger groups celebrating an anniversary or birthday and groups as small as the two of us -- just a couple out for the afternoon, with our Yorkie, Nicky. OUR SMALL , quiet boat was one of dozens out on the water that day, but the channels never seemed crowded, and that's the way it usually is, Lane said. The business has based at Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard for 15 years.  Yorkie Nick is at home on the waters of Oxnard Harbor. Off for the afternoon: Cookie, Keller and Nick. We really enjoyed the pace of this adventure on the water. The architecture in Oxnard's canals is fascinating, like most  harbor towns. The mix of styles ranges from elaborate Victorian, to Italian, mission style and Carpenter Gothic. We took photos of gorgeous gardens and artful patios. OXNARD IS  at the end of the Santa Barbara Channel and offers year-round viewing of whales, dolphins and seals. The calm water was never "rock and roll" swaying, as we've felt many times on small crafts. Oxnard's colorful harbor area on Victoria Avenue is in various states of repair and renewal. It was a perfectly smooth sail with other easy-going sailors. "Cap'n Keller" kept us safe and the ride smooth navigating with perfect sailor prowess. He has sailed oceans, rivers and lakes since he was a kid. I would have been nervous piloting the boat myself. But if you've never driven an electric boat, don't let that stop you. Lane gives easy walk-through instructions, as we saw him do with a novice-sailors couple who arrived along with the two of us.   IT IS COMPLETELY  relaxing. And fascinating. We loved viewing boats from another boat. There's a whole community of boat people in Oxnard.  The picturesque Oxnard, Calif., harbor reveals itself during a leisurely few hours aboard Hopper Boat Rentals.   We  watched them enjoying life on their homes, which ranged from elaborate and sleek to rustic-casual, with plants, beaded curtains and sleeping dogs. Our boat was so quiet we couldn't hear its motor. If you've never been to Oxnard, it is an undiscovered gem on the California coast, a quiet beachside community -- not as opulent as some nor as laid back as others. It has its own rhythm and profile, and is a friendly and welcoming place to spend a few days. We recommend Hampton Inn Channel Islands Harbor, where stunning marina view rooms offer an ever-changing picture of life on the water. Fishing boats, pleasure crafts, luxurious yachts, kayaks and paddle boards all make their way to and fro as you watch with a cup of coffee or glass of wine, while your troubles disappear. Hampton Inn Channel Islands Harbor is our Oxnard "home." As Cap'n Keller says, "If you've always longed to be captain of your own boat, consider a 'Harbor Hopper.' We've rented small electric boats around the world. Whether you're on the canals of Venice or the waterways of Oxnard, California, you'll find a peaceful, relaxing way to slow down." So do consider a weekend in Oxnard, and set aside a few hours for a Hopper boat rental. You'll be so smitten, you may decide to own your own boat!   hopperboatrentals.com ; 805-382-110 0                                                               Poet Allen Ginsberg was special guest at Writer's Voice, and the dedication of the Bruce Kemp Meyers Poets Garden  on the campus of Montana State University-Billings.    UP NEXT:  Memorial Day approaches, so we remember a unique memorial celebration for a talented teacher, poet and actor.  Twenty-eight years ago, famed poet Allen Ginsberg made a guest performance in Billings, Montana, to honor the memory of Bruce Meyers.  The award winning writer delivered a eulogy, read his poetry and sang songs. His performance during the first "Bruce Bash" christened the Bruce Kemp Meyers Poets Garden, in memory of the late professor of English at Montana State University-Billings. While working on his MFA at Kent State University, Meyers took a workshop from the acclaimed poet and they struck up a correspondence. Ginsberg's visit was arranged by Corby Skinner during Ginsberg's Billings appearance at Writer's Voice the same May weekend as the 1993 garden dedication. We look back on the remarkable celebration of music and theater. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us each week for a fresh take on travel, nature, family and the arts. Please share the link:     whereiscookie.com

After more than a year of closure, the world famous Monterey Bay Aquarium is open for lovers of marine life once again.  Masking and distancing are in place, and one must obtain tickets on  line for specific times and numbers quotas.  It's worth the wait and the trouble to get inside. PHILANTHROPIST'S OCEAN LOVING FAMILY GIFTED THE WORLD A REMARKABLE AQUARIUM STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A renovated cannery offers one of many outdoor patios at the world famous Monterey Bay Aquarium. DIVE DEEP into one of the world's finest ocean exhibits to explore the wonders of Monterey Bay Aquarium in the lovely village of Monterey, California. We booked our tickets on line in early May, after the world famous venue announced it would be reopening after 15 months of closure.   We spent a splendid, uncrowded afternoon admiring sea otters, jellies, seabirds, penguins and even sharks in perhaps the world's finest exhibit of sea life. Julie Packard, daughter of aquarium founder David Packard, runs the operation. ONE UNIQUE attraction -- among many -- is the amazing living kelp forest, an expansive three-story exhibit with graceful leopard sharks, wolf-eels and an array of other colorful fish. The non-profit enterprise is known for its regional focus on the marine habitats of Monterey Bay, it was the first to exhibit a living kelp forest when it opened in October 1984. The aquarium was a gift to the community from David and Lucile Packard (of Hewlett Packard fame, the multinational technology company). Its remarkable evolution includes an imaginative rebuilding -- from the ruins of a sardine cannery on the Pacific Coast to a world class learning institution.  The Packard family renovated the 1916 Hovden Cannery and transformed it to house the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which opened with fanfare and kudos in 1984. The Packards' $55 million grant  launched the institution. Their children carry on the legacy of philanthropy and love of the sea's rich life. Daughter Julie Packard has run the operation since its 1984 opening.  Marine lover, lifelong diver and sailor Bruce Keller admires the unique kelp forest, also above. She majored in marine algae studies at U.C. Santa Cruz and serves as the aquarium's executive director. Her goal -- and that of her parents -- is to inspire conservation and appreciation of the ocean and its richness. Her sister, Nancy Burnett, also played a part in developing the imaginative space, using her graduate work in marine biology at Stanford University to help inspire the aquarium's creation.  Marine life lovers worldwide appreciate the deep pockets of the generous Packard family, whose wealth supplied the millions necessary to make the conversion from the fish canning days. Fascinanted viewers enter the magical world of coral and fish . THE AQUARIUM'S  displays are first rate, with the unique backdrop of Cannery Row and the rocky California coastline near Big Sur. We drove it in just a little over 3 hours from downtown San Francisco. The friendly and knowledgeable volunteers enhanced our visit, smoothly directing traffic and answering questions. The facility's welcoming architecture and attention to details large and small make it a pleasure to enjoy -- much like a world-class museum. The exquisite chambered nautilis has been around 500 million years and is a popular part of the aquarium's vast displays. It's easy to spend two or three hours, and you must not miss the three-story kelp forest, largest living kelp forest community in the world. Leopard sharks, eels and colorful fish swim just an arm's length fom the viewer. A lively aviary offers the opportunity to observe birds at close range, foraging for insects. A colorful colony of penguins splashes and preens, flipping about like the underwater acrobats they are. And the Monterey Bay Habitat specializes in featuring  inhabitants of the local waters. FAMILIES, COUPLES,  students and small multi-generational groups wandered from the jellies to the seabirds to the the extraordinary chambered nautilus, which pre-dates the dinosaur. "Nautilus pompilius" was attracting crowds the day we visited.  This large, mobile cephalopod is considered a "living fossil." Of all the delights of this extraordinary aquarium, he was the favorite of this arts driven musician and English major. I'd never seen one close-up and yearned to, for this chambered wonder has been the subject of poetry, artwork, math, musical compositions and elegant jewelry.  The nautilus has even inspired the names of submarines and exercise equipment and has been around for about 500 million years—even before the dinosaurs. Fascinating artwork adorns the aquarium, including this beautiful sphere made from recycled plastic pulled from the ocean. IF YOU'D   like to sit and admire the aquatic wonders, there are thoughtfully placed benches, and if you're hungry, there's a pleasant cafe with distanced dining and signs aplenty to encourage hand washing and respectful behavior.  We found our fellow viewers polite and courteous. The bathrooms are immaculate. Everything about the museum is thoughtful, welcoming, educational without being preachy. A graceful jellyfish resembles a person under a parachute. ARTWORK IS also an important and delightful part of the aquarium. Sea life mobiles and eye-catching contemporary art adorn transitional spaces between the various "zones". We applaud this magnificent gift and hope to return on our next swing through this beautiful section of California. Reservations are essential and the number of guests is carefully controlled. montereybayaquarium.org     UP NEXT:  While we're in Monterey and Salinas, we take a stroll down Memory Lane, with a look at the 1982 film, "Cannery Row," inspired by a John Steinbeck yarn, and our interviews with Nick Nolte and Debra Winger. There's a fun story behind the world premiere of the film, and Cookie's one-on-one interview with Nolte. Plus a look at Salinas now, in the post-Steinbeck days, with the National Steinbeck Center replete with the writer's archives, life history and displays. It's right in Old Town Salinas, and we look at the changes in both cities from the quaint days of 50 years ago to change and  gentrification of the old canneries and warehouses. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more:  whereiscookie.com

Finishing touches are complete as the Alberta Bair Theater, formerly the Fox Theatre, opens its doors  once again. The 1931 building celebrates its 90th birthday with a grand reopening and gala concert. The Fox Theater, after the first renovation, circa 1990, and before the most recent "redo." BUILDING'S 90TH BIRTHDAY, GALA CONCERT CELEBRATE A TOWN'S PERFORMING ARTS LEGACY AND A TALENTED DIRECTOR WHO HEPED SAVE IT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, and courtesy ABT, 20th Century Fox, archives of CM HISTORY IS made this week with the grand “reopening” of the Alberta Bair Theater in downtown Billings, Montana. The $13.6 million renovation salutes the building's 90-year history. Broadway star Kristin Chenoweth headlines a gala  concert in an evening of nostalgia and celebration. Kristin Chenoweth will sing at a gala concert at the ABT.  For me and thousands of others, the ABT will always be “the Fox.” For here as a wide-eyed youngster, I heard many of the great artists of the 20th Century.  In this 1931 building – and the slightly older Babcock -- I developed my love of the performing arts. As a child, I was spellbound at cellist Gregor Piatigorsky, violinist Yascha Heifetz, singers Paul Robeson and Marian Anderson. Community Concerts hosted a string of Metropolitan Opera stars, dancers, singers, jazz greats Tony Bennett, Harry James and Mel Torme.   AS A YOUNG reporter and arts reviewer,    I interviewed legions of these performers in the shabby basement green room: Virgil Fox, Robert Merrill, Alvin Ailey, Bella Lewitzsky, Martha Graham, Arthur Fiedler, so many more.   The all-male Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo sold out a pair of performances.   I GREW UP with "our Fox," one of hundreds of movie palaces named for film mogul William Fox, whose empire numbered into hundreds nationwide. WHEN I  launched the campaign to save the building in 1976, I recruited many of my newspaper sources -- museum and library heads, professors, actors,  ranchers, bankers. We were fortunate to woo talented director Skip Lundby as manager and artistic director during my 10-year tenure as president of Fox Committee. His vision, dedication and genius in directing and producing on a shoestring turned the corner for the building's salvation. To save money, he made a small "apartment" in the Fox, sleeping in the projection booth, heating hotdogs on stage lights.  The 1931 Fox Theater, above, and below left.       Skip Lundby's passion for the arts and the building helped save it for posterity.   SKIP -- like myself -- was  sentimental about the venerable old building  and wanted to save it from the wrecker's ball.  Many  artistic tastes were sharpened here and Skip and the rest of my Fox Committee shared this passion. Not a single person declined to join the cause to "Save the Fox," and quickly, initial opponents of the project were clamoring to join the board. It became a "fashionable" cause. The Fox Committee took over utilities at the building which Carisch Theaters was still running as a movie house. We struggled to book a regular "imported "season, and did so, including two sold-out showsof  Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo. Our first big locally produced show was in 1977, the charming "I Do! I Do!" for which  I played pit piano, enticing my old friend and violin teacher Jim O'Brien, to conduct. My late husband Bruce Meyers and Cathy Hansen played the leads. Skip directed. Our wonderful orchestra included then Billings Symphony concertmaster Eloise Kirk and  with our own private funds, Bruce and I offered a small stipend. I charmed the musicians and they loved the musical's storyline. Once again, no one said no to me.  Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Meyers in period garb for "Our Town."   Alberta Bair wanted to name the building Bair Family Theater but we convinced her to honor herself.  WE SOLD OUT  a three-night run, followed by "Promises, Promises," "The Fantasticks," "Man of La Mancha," "Our Town," and many other shows, all directed by Skip. Every show featured respected local actors and musicians, always including Bruce. I conducted, did  musical arranging, played piano and beat the drum at the Gazette to encourage support. IN 1979 , I approached two of the smartest people I knew -- Hewes Agnes and Ray Hart -- to lead a  fundraising charge. Our now non-profit Fox organization had an abundance of artistic acumen but needed business direction to raise $5.6 to renovate the building. (That was less than half the cost of this latest renovation but a daunting sum 42 years ago with the economy in a serious slump.) Proud 80-year history  Christene "Cookie" Meyers was honored by Dana Gioia and the National Endowment for the Arts for her tireless efforts to "save the Fox." (Gioia was NEA chairman.) Hewes and Ray came aboard, recruited Larry Martin and other bright minds, and formed the Fox Corporation, later naming it after Alberta Bair. That same summer, Bruce and I took out a second mortgage on our home, via friend Bob Waller, CEO of then Midland Bank. Jazz great Dave Brubeck played the Fox Theater helping turn the fundraising corner in 1979 . We needed $25,000 to secure Dave Brubeck and The American Conservatory Theatre of San Francisco. It was a gamble, but Bob believed in our cause. On four warm days, summer of 1979, we sold out three ACT performances and Brubeck’s packed one-night run. THE ACT WON  a Tony that fall for best regional theater and its director William Ball thanked Billings, Montana, and the Fox, for the warm hospitality. Brubeck was still in his prime, soon to be awarded a Kennedy Center honor. When I interviewed him during intermission in the seedy Fox dressing room I wore two hats: concert reviewer and president of Save the Fox. I asked him to plug the campaign and when he came back on stage, he gave a rousing plea, "You must save this theater," which was greeted with thunderous applause, cheers, whistles. The next week Skip and I opened the mail to several thousand dollars in donations. (Badly needed because our AC had just failed and in winter, we wore our coats for lobby meetings because we couldn't afford the heat bill.) LUNDBY CONTINUED  living on a shoestring inside the theater, a modern day phantom of the opera. The TV dinners he warmed on the stage footlights provided scant nourishment. He was often cold despite sheltering in the projection booth --  warmest corner of the drafty1931 building. He wore layers to bed. But he was beaming and I was one proud Cookie in 1987 at the first gala reopening. Later, Dana Gioia visited as head of the National Endowment for the Arts, joining opera friend Doug Nagel and a packed house in honoring me. I praised Skip's efforts to the sell-out crowd and treasure that evening while I await this latest party. So come celebrate with me. Long live the arts. Long live the ABT. Long live “the Fox." Photographer Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers cap an autumn drive through lovely Yellowstone Park. UP NEXT :  Yellowstone National Park in autumn. Right now is our favorite time to visit the nation's first national park.  The air is crisp and clean, the sun shines brightly but is not too warm, and critters are on the move. Consider driving through at least part of this national treasure. And if you're too far away, pull up a seat as a time-honored armchair traveler.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The new, streamlined ships of American Cruise Lines are luxurious and beautifully designed to  accommodate small passenger loads, allowing for navigation into small ports and harbors. Here, American Melody explores ten states on a leisurely Mississippi River trip -- New Orleans to St. Paul. DELIGHTFUL DIVERSIONS AWAIT ON THE WATER, FROM NEW ENGLAND TO PACIFIC NORTHWEST, MISSISSIPPI AND MORE New ACL ships, like American Melody, below right, offer state-of-the-art design, small-ship comfort with the feel of a contemporary ocean-going luxury vessel.  Editor's Note: Today we begin a three-part series on rivers and exploration. First, we focus on myriad appealing itineraries aboard the enticing modern riverboats of American Cruise Lines. Then we board a charming ACL vessel, American Pride, to follow the Lewis and Clark trail, visiting intriguing small towns and ports along the Columbia and Snake rivers. Finally, we pay tribute to Sacajawea, the remarkable native American guide who played a major role in the legendary1805 expedition to open the West. The museums, parks, inns and historic buildings she inspired live on. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRCE KELLER and courtesy American Cruise Lines NOW MORE  than ever, it's wise to play it safe and travel close to home. If you're travel junkies, like the two of us are, you know how essential it is to have a ticket in the drawer. For us, cruising means adventure, exploration, the thrill of the new. It's mental health on the water with side-trips to fascinating ports and villages to visit museums, concert halls, parks and restaurants. It's a marvelous opportunity to see how other folks live, to discover and share their cultural riches. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers about to board ACL's American Pride for a week on the trail of Lewis and Clark. UNTIL WE  get a handle on the pandemic, exotic foreign travel is not in the cards for us. So we're exploring fascinating corners of our own country. We were recently wooed to travel close-to-home, after studying American Cruise Lines attractive vessels and a string of engaging itineraries exploring home turf in the U.S.A.  Eye-catching scenery enticed us to our stateroom balcony for the view of Washington's Ice Harbor Dam on Snake River. American Cruise Lines' ships offer "up close" viewing.  Aboard American Pride, with only 190 passengers, we quickly met fellow cruisers. While tracing the Lewis and Clark trail on the Columbia and Snake rivers, we dined and toured with new, curious friends from Texas, Colorado, Arkansas, Louisiana and New Jersey.  Some were back for their 8th and 9th ACL cruise, proud of their Eagle Society membership, which honors return cruisers with special parties, discounts and other courtesies. ACL'S NEW , sleek riverboats offer the amenities, glamour and prestige of the best of larger cruise ships. Its vessels create  inviting close-to-home options for cruise lovers who don't prefer large-ship cruising. Design is carefully thought out, offering close-up looks at ever-changing landscape -- locks and dams on our recent trip where bird's eye views abound. Some of the line's newer ships offer multi-story atriums, popular in ocean-going vessels for their panoramic views. The line's stately paddle heelers offer distinctive charms of their own: whimsical artwork, cozy nooks to read or enjoy a beverage, and turn-of-century velvet and wood accoutrements. A multi-million dollar update is planned for these much loved slightly older vessels, honoring ACL's reputation for premium, contemporary comfort. Private balconies are an ACL trademark; we enjoyed ours all day and evening. American Melody's roomy, comfy staterooms offer a large balcony for viewing passing wonders . A school teacher in period dress    gives insight into the trail-blazing journey of Lewis and Clark. THE NEWER ships -- the first modern riverboats in the U.S. --  are attractive for their modern design, appealing to comfort seekers with spacious bathrooms and staterooms the size of small apartments.  In ships such as the new American Melody and American Jazz. cruisers enjoy luxury on the Mississippi River.  One couple we met followed the call of Mark Twain and riverboat travel of yore, raving about their "complete Mississippi" three-week cruise. It transited 10 states from New Orleans to St. Paul and they said they "lived on our balcony."  Intriguing. IF YOU WANDER the ship, you'll find the all-American crew to be helpful, amiable,  and well informed about ports, shipboard activities and schedules. Workers are also proud that their ships are "made in the U.S.A."  WE APPRECIATED the learning opportunities during our Lewis and Clark week as we traversed territory explored by these two ground-breaking explorers in the early 1800s. While immersing ourselves in their challenges -- bitter winter wind and cold, relentless rain, struggles to scale mountain passes, language barriers and back-breaking building of forts and canoes -- we returned to our comfy ship.  Within walking distance, we enjoyed the journey's modern-day museums, galleries, shops and   Oregon's fine Maryhill Museum offers pleasures, treasures in an ACL side trip from The Dalles . homes, a pleasant contrast with the travails and hardships of the long-ago journey.   ACL specializes in historic destinations, carefully choosing guides, on-board lecturers and historians to enhance the journey. In our voyage's delightful river towns, we observed the lifestyle of today's contemporary American westerners, a bonus.  Part of the thrill of the small boats is watching the ship rise in the canal locks from a bird's eye perch on the open deck. ACL chefs design meals to enhance   ports and cities visited, here a po boy. THE NEW ships also cater to the foodie, with pretty meals served in a formal dining room or a casual "Back Porch Cafe," option, proving hugely popular. Lovely lounges entice cocktail gatherings or morning coffee, all with close-up views of passing scenery. A yoga studio and fitness center help keep the figure trim for one shouldn't pass on the meals. ACL chefs design menus inspired by destinations, so leaving New Orleans, you might choose jambalaya, bananas foster or a po boy sandwich. We enjoyed fresh seafood on our near-Pacific sojourn. The food is tops, presentation artful and service refined. A VARIETY OF  choices await both veteran and novice cruiser aboard ACL. We shared tables with many repeat ACL customers, veteran cruisers devoted to the "close up" views of the land ACL's fleet offers.  We are considering Alaska, Puget Sound, New England, the Ohio River and an alluring "Historic south, golden isles" trip from Charleston to Savannah and on to Amelia Island. A week-long Mississippi trip attracts us, too. An east coast inland passage trip also appeals, with kayaking, dolphins, carriage rides and Fort Sumter history.  Nashville's charms unfold aboard American Jazz, with large staterooms and small passenger loads. ONE ACL CRUISE we've not yet taken -- and eagerly await -- is a music-themed cruise from Nashville to Memphis. This trip appeals to us because with 127 cruises under our life jackets, we're always looking for something new.  This sounds terrific, with its leisurely trek up the Mississippi, Cumberland and Ohio rivers, into colorful small villages and middle-sized towns. Throw in a Grand Ole Opry visit in Nasvhille and a plate of Memphis barbecue, with nightly performances of jazz and blues. What could be better for a pair of cruisers, foodies and musicians? For more on ACL's three dozen itineraries in 30 states, call 1 800 814-6880 or go to ACL's website:   americancruiselines.com   American Cruise Lines specializes in historic ports and lively learning.  UP NEXT:   We continue our "close to home" cruise series with a look at towns along the rivers explored by Lewis and Clark.  Side trips from American Cruise Lines' American Pride give insight into the pair's remarkable journey west from St. Louis. With state-of-the art decor and all the comforts of large-ship cruising, ACL visits ports of call not accessible by ship, except on small vessels.  Our week-long Columbia and Snake Rivers cruise sheds new light on the daring and bravery of Lewis and Clark. We take time to enjoy shipboard amenities, too, with gourmet meals, music of the period and lively lectures on the two intrepid explorers and a wise and talented woman who played a key role in the journey.  Sacajawea was important to the success of the mission, the dream of President Thomas Jefferson.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for fresh insights into travel, nature, the arts, family and more. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com Photo left: Sacajawea State Park and Interpretive Center near Pasco, Washington, includes a wonderful small museum, detailing the contributions of the remarkable guide, interpreter and healer.

The Sacajawea Inn in Three Forks, Montana, honors one of the most revered women in the history of the United States. Whether spelled with a "j" or a "g," dozens of parks, museums, halls and mountains are named after the famous guide, interpreter and friend of Lewis and Clark. The structures of Fort Clatsop were simple. Two large buildings were surrounded by large walls. Most of the men lived in one structure, while Lewis, Clark,  Sacagawea, her husband Toussaint Charbonneau, and their son, Jean Baptiste, stayed in the other. INDIAN WOMAN'S  TALENTS, SKILLS  SAVED THE FAMOUS JOURNEY FROM DISASTER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE DARING AND bravery of the Lewis and Clark Expedition live on in the West, 216 years after the Corps of Discovery explored the rugged terrain between St. Louis and the Pacific Ocean. While these two smart and daring men deserve accolades -- along with President Jefferson who engineered the trip -- the true hero of the long and arduous journey was the multi-lingual Shoshone woman. For it was she who  helped chart the trail, making invaluable inroads with native people encountered along the way. The lobby of the Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j") in Three Forks offers western hospitality in understated elegance. SACAGAWEA -- a member of the Lemhi Shoshone tribe --was only 16 when drafted into service.  She proved herself an able guide, interpreter, peace maker and medicine woman, gathering important documents, tools, and medicines, while taking care of an infant son. During negotiations with the Shoshones for horses, she was reunited with her brother. WERE IT NOT for her finesse, quick thinking and multiple talents in  wilderness survival, historians believe the expedition might have failed.  Surely, she kept it from disaster, advising Lewis and Clark on the route, introducing the explorers to native people, suggesting the best places to camp. Her knowledge helped the expedition navigate mountain passes in the vast Louisiana Territory. Her prowess as a guide and interpreter complimented her diplomacy in encountering people along the way.  Her contributions altered the course of history in this daring search for a route over the Rockies to the Pacific Ocean. The Sacajawea Interpretive Center tells the story of the Corps of Discovery and stresses the important role that Sacajawea played. TO RECOGNIZE her importance, dozens of parks, museums, mountains and even a posh Montana inn are named after the skillful and multi-talented woman.  In Montana, the historic Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j" not a "g") offers history and old-fashioned charm accented by contemporary amenities, fine dining and luxurious accommodations. Front desk clerk and amiable concierge Alex Kyser keeps everything running smoothly at the Sacajawea Hotel . We met guests from Vermont, Florida, Arizona and Italy during our two-day visit capping an  American Cruise Lines journey on the Lewis and Clark trail.   WE SIPPED  welcome champagne in the elegant lobby, which offers understated western ambiance. An attentive concierge, Alex, manned  the front desk, and gave us the menu to contemplate our dinner choices at the excellent restaurant. For more than a century, the Three Forks, Montana, inn has welcomed travelers from around the globe. The hotel is a major downtown attraction. Tourists use it as a base to explore nearby Lewis and Clark Caverns and the "three forks" of the rivers.  Here the Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison rivers join to form the great Missouri. The skills and diplomacy of Sacagawea likely saved the expedition from disaster.  Our 10-day Lewis and Clark odyssey ended at "the Sac," as it is affectionately known. The imposing hotel attracts history aficionados, outdoorsmen and travelers accustomed to comfort and pampering, including morning coffee and homemade banana bread.    A young "Pomp" carried by his now famous mother . HOW TO PRONOUNCE and spell that famous name? Is it Sacajawea or Sacagawea? The latter is the most widely used spelling, pronounced with a hard "g" sound. Most of us grew up spelling and pronouncing it with a soft "g" or "j" sound. Both spellings and pronunciations are recognized. Lewis and Clark's  journals mention Sacagawea by name seventeen times but spelled in eight different ways.   SACAJAWEA HISTORICAL  State Park and the Pasco, Washington, ("j" spelling here) offers a wonderful interpretive center  honoring the woman whose quiet, peaceful ways helped establish the explorers as friends, not foes coming to conquer.   Her presence as a woman helped dispel notions to the Native tribes that the company intended to capture or harm, and confirmed the peacefulness of their mission. Her young son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, became America's youngest explorer. "Pomp" was cared for and educated by Clark after his mother's untimely death following the birth of her daughter.  She was only 25.  MORE INFO : www.sacajaweahotel.com ; www.americancruiselines.com ; www.sacajaweacenter.org     Trapeze artistry is at its finest in the Santos Family, a high- flying quartet of gifted women who thrill the audience. UP NEXT:  Welcome to the Big Top as we visit the Zoppe Italian Family Circus, on tour in the United States and in residence now at Redwood City, California.  Clowns, contortionists, acrobats, dancing dogs and more await sell-out audiences in a spectacular, old-fashioned circus show.   Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, the arts, cruising, families, nature, pets and life on the road. We appreciate sharing the links and telling friends and like-minded people about www.whereiscookie.com

Acrobats and trapeze artists exhibit their prowess and daring in a jaw-dropping act. Zoppe Italian Family Circus is on tour in California, then on to Arizona and beyond. LIVELY, FUN FAMILY SHOWHARKENS BACK TO THE DAYSOF THE TOURING CIRCUS OF YORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Enjoying the circus pre-show, from left: Bruce Keller  ("Uncle KK,") James Ganner, Christene Meyers ("Auntie Cookie") and Penelope Ganner.  THE ZOPPE FAMILY'S touring circus is a delightful throw-back to the circuses of childhood. The elements of magic and surprise are time honored themes as a global assemblage of performers entertains and delights.   One could call it a true "dog and pony show" for horses and pups are indeed  part of the act, along with mimes, acrobats, trapeze artists, sword balancers and a charming clown -- plus more -- much more. The remarkably old fashioned yet polished and contemporary Zoppe Circus dates back 179 years to a collaboration of French, Hungarian and Italian performers who launched the production.  Legend says a young couple -- both performers -- fell in love and launched the now famous touring troupe. The talented ringmaster opens the show, with his faithful sidekick, clown Nino, behind him and the full house.   The company takes in the applause of a standing ovation, with baby Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppe, the ensemble's newest member, sixth generation. THE PRODUCTION  honors  centuries old circus traditions: thrills, chills, charm, humor, surprise and -- always -- magic. We treated our great-niece and nephew, Penelope and James Ganner, to the Big Top in Redwood City during opening weekend of the Zoppe run. Jugglers, musicians, jesters, horses and multiple generations of the cheerful troupe greeted us as we strolled toward the tent for the 6 p.m. Sunday show, the last of three performances that day. (The company takes only Monday and Tuesday off, and bunks behind the circus in a compound of trailers.)  THE CIRCUS theme changes yearly and the 2021 theme is "La Vita Nuova, the New Life." Ringmaster and mime Mace Perlman explained  that coming back from the pandemic has special meaning to the performers. "As we create a new life ahead, we are reminded to take things lightly,  to appreciate as much as we can." How true, we thought, as we sat with our beloved little ones, surrounded by other families and friends. Contortion acts are part of the show, with body-bending moves.   The Zoppé family is constantly importing new people -- and new life. Young performers learn the ropes early. Even the company's newest member was on stage. Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppé --  born in April in Guanajuato, Mexico -- and has been part of the acts since his four-month birthday. Actor and ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically trained mime, is a circus veteran, who studied and performed under Marcel Marceau in Paris, and later under Giorgio Strehler at his Piccolo Teatro in Milan. Ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically- trained mime, studied with famed mime Marcel  Marceau in Paris. He is also a fine actor.  Giovanni Zoppé, who plays Nino the Clown, is a 6th generation performer, son of Alberto Zoppe, who performed into his 80s and is much revered. FORMER OLYMPIC   Diving Team  members from the Russian State Circus, are among the many pros in the company. Belarusian brothers Mikhail and Alexei Drozdov joined Russian born Illya Alikov  for a thrilling Russian bar act. It had me gripping my nephew's arm in fear of a fall.  THEN MORE thrills with fifth-generation circus artist, Mexican born German Rodogell in a daring sword balancing act. More gripping of my nephew's arm as Wisconsin-born Disa Carneol took fearlessly to a swinging trapeze.  The talented aerialist has performed worldwide -- as have most of the seasoned troupe -- thrilling audiences from Shanghai to San Francisco and Sao Paulo. Poodles are part of the fun, and some are rescue dogs.  Clown Nino was a huge audience hit, working the entire house with juggling, physical humor and clever commentary to the ringmaster's feigned impatience. Actor Giovanni Zoppe is a non-stop delight with an expressive face made for clowning! Smiling and in complete control, a Zoppe rider thrills the crowd with her expert talents and beautiful maneuvering . WE AND OUR kids are animal lovers, and Penelope is a talented rider, so the dog and horse acts thrilled us all. Doggies jumped through hoops, danced and formed an endearing conga line then an expert rider managed two spirited horses with grace and control. She even rode atop a pair of horses -- one leg on each -- and rode backwards and upside down without incident. This is a dog and pony show of exemplary quality and good, old-fashioned entertainment value. Tickets are reasonably priced and many kinds of refreshments are available, plus an opportunity to be photographed with the horses.  WHAT WE LOVED most about the circus was seeing it with family, remembering the circus shows we older folks enjoyed as kids. Hats off and paws and hoofs up, all around! IF YOU GO:   Zoppe is in Redwood City through Nov. 21.  Tickets may be purchased at the box office or on  redwoodcity.org/residents/redwood-city-events/zoppe-italian-family-circus If you miss the Bay Area performance run, the Zoppe company is headed for Arizona with stops in Chandler, Dec. 9-19, and Tempe, Dec. 23-Jan. 3 of 2022. Check out zoppe.net/schedule-tickets/ "The Last Ship" at the Ahmanson Theater in Los Angeles was the last show Cookie and Keller saw before "pandemic  purgatory." After months without theater, it's back now with a full season at many Los Angeles and San Diego venues . UP NEXT: After nearly 20 months without our usual full docket of live theater offerings, we are thrilled to have a series of  well received productions on line. It's wonderful to be part of the audience once again.  Southern California is "back on the boards" with a full slate of offerings now through the winter months and into next summer. It's a wondrous, thrilling time for theater junkies including the whereiscookie staff. We take a look at what's on stage from San Diego to Palm Springs, Carlsbad, Los Angeles and more, remembering to explore, learn and live.  And do catch us each week for a fresh spin on theater and the arts, travel, family, nature, health and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The eerie and colorful formations of the Lewis and Clark Caverns await inspection. CLIMB INTO THE MYSTERIOUS WORLD OF LIMESTONE CAVERNS That's Cookie (with Nicky)peering through the Caverns entry billboard. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie bundles up for a moist walk through   Lewis and Clark Caverns near Whitehall, Mt. STEP INTO a magical world inside a series of extraordinary caves. But, please, watch your head. And bring a sweater. You'll be bending and ducking -- and you might be chilly.  Even in summer, the Lewis and Clark Caverns are 48 degrees Fahrenheit. The breathtaking natural wonder is near Three Forks, Montana, a series of moist caves -- formed long ago by groundwater in beds of limestone. THE CAVES date to the Mississippian age -- from a sea present in the area around an astonishing 325 to 365 million years ago. Fast forward past this mind-boggling data, through years of shifting and seismic change, to the late 19th Century. Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park receives visitors from all over the world, who usually take in Yellowstone National Park as well as other northern Rockies sights. Charles Brooke and Mexican John, both from Whitehall, discovered the cave entrance in 1882. They had heard of the great caves from local Indian legend and set out to look for them. They did not tell many people about their find, so it is not an "official" discovery. Ten years later, two hunters  noticed a plume of steam coming out of the cave.  They were Tom Williams and Burt Pannell, who are credited with discovering the wonder in the relatively recent year of 1892. Although famed explorers Lewis and Clark had been very near in both 1805 and 1806, they did not discover the mysterious, magical caverns, within a couple hours' horseback ride from their encampments.  Lively commentary from well informed guides makes the cavern journey one of learning as well as fun. But because they were so near -- along nearby Antelope Creek, a Jefferson River tributary -- the accomplishments of their remarkable journey impressed President Theodore Roosevelt and he named them in their honor. He noted that their journey took them within a few miles of the historic place east of Whitehall, Montana. THE EXPLORERS would probably be happy to know that the  caverns they came so near became Montana's first state park.  Montanans have been exploring the caves for over 100 years, proud to claim the largest known limestone cavern systems in the northwest and one of the few in the U.S.   WE   BASED  our expedition at the nearby Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks, knowing that the spectacular geological stop would tie in with our visit to Yellowstone National Park.  We enjoyed the ride on US 287 through the backroads of the Madison Valley.  THEN JACKETS over our arms, we journeyed into the impressive geological features: stalactites, stalagmites, helictites and columns, some named for people and characters. The caverns are fascinating and elaborate, with a guided tour offered several times a day. Sign up is required. While the naming of Montana's  Lewis and Clark Caverns was inspired by the journey of the famous explorers, one feels like a modern day explorer entering the dark and moist caves. Viewing the caverns is a guided, two-mile breezy hike in an environment of natural underground air-conditioning.  Tours are given daily throughout the summer. You may also camp, hike and bike on 10 miles of trails. You'll register through the park system which also boasts interpretive displays, two visitor centers, gift shop, and snack and beverage options.  OUR WELL informed ranger took us on an interesting tour of the caverns, then we explored more of the additional 3,000 acres of this almost mile-high Jefferson County attraction.  If you are afraid of enclosed places, sometimes slippery footing, or descending below the earth, this might not be the place for you. And if you're at all claustrophobic, you may want to pass on this outing and stick to the visitor centers or a pleasant hike above ground.   Special holiday tours by candlelight offer a moody, beautifully lit way to enjoy the caverns in December . FRIENDS WHO  were reluctant to enter anything dark or "closed off," declined to take the tour with us.  But we felt comfortable entering the caves, feeling safe by staying close to the guide. Gripping my husband's belt with my hand, I didn't trip on the  little dips and bends in the walkway. But we'd practiced for this -- in caverns in Malta, New Zealand, Vietnam, Scotland and other places.  "Cool caves," we call them.       SEASON AND HOURS. The park is open all year, except for a couple days. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec. 25 and Jan. 1. Special Holiday Candlelight Tours of Lewis and Clark Caverns will be offered Dec. 17, 18, and 19 and Dec. 21, 22 and 23.   mt.gov/stateparks/lewis-and-clark-caverns/ UP NEXT:   Elvis Presley's legacy lives on in a one-woman presentation by Priscilla Presley, who was married to the legendary singer from 1967 to 1973. She appears this week in Palm Springs. Mention the name and people are still fascinated by the legendary singer Elvis Presley. Oscar's, a lively Palm Springs cabaret, and its inventive producer/owner Dan Gore are celebrating his life in its continuing "Intimate Evening" series. Presley's only wife, actress Priscilla Presley, appears Nov. 11, to talk about her life with the singer, whom she married in May of 1967. Tickets are still available, at various levels, including a "meet and greet" with Ms. Presley, an actress and entrepreneur who made Graceland famous.  Then we spotlight the world's only LGBTQ mariachi band, touring from its Los Angeles base. We talk with the players, whom we enjoyed at a sell-out Oscar's performance. Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles is a ground-breaking ensemble with ambitious goals and a brave history. It is critically acclaimed for its authentic mariachi sound and precise musical renditions. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly: www.whereiscookie.com