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European travels took us to Paris to Gertrude Stein's home Click here ==> Lilian's Last Dance The legendary Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas made many Atlantic crossings, and are cameos in "Lilian's Last Dance."                            STORY By    CHRISTENE MEYERS Crossing the Atlantic on the Queen Elizabeth II was part of the fun research for "Lilian's Last Dance." Here William Jones and Christene Meyers enjoy! CREATION of "Lilian's Last Dance" took many years and trips to England, France, Australia, Peru and 11 North American states. The idea survived the deaths of my two husbands, Bruce Meyers in 1992, and William Jones, in 2005.   Bruce and I had dreams of a Broadway musical about a sharpshooter from France.  Billy and I collaborated on the concept that would become "Lilian's Last Dance." HE AND I  determined to visit each place featured in the book. In the "good years," before chemotherapy and radiation, we made exciting pilgrimages to Europe and South America's rain forests.  We took a dozen happy U.S. road trips. We plotted research weekends, working vacations and photo shoots. We read three dozen hefty books and studied articles on the post 1907-era.  We visited 20 museums and arranged interviews. We crossed the Atlantic three times, in the fashion of our invented characters and "real life" people who have cameos in our novel, including Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas. OUR U.S. TRAVELS  took us through Texas, New Mexico, Nebraska, Ohio, Oklahoma, Montana, San Francisco and Los Angeles, places our characters inhabited before the novel's 1917 ending. The iconic Eiffel Tower plays a part in "Lilian....". Our characters came alive as we retraced their fictional footsteps.  We felt that we, too, were players in the novel. We talked to working paniolos on the beautiful Parker Ranch on the Big Island of Hawaii. A trip to the lush Peruvian rain forest was part of our research for the  birthplace of the character Elfego who becomes a famous painter in "Lilian...." We interviewed historians about turn-of-century bank robberies.  We talked to fashion and art experts, to determine what kinds of guns and disguises our outlaws might have used, what fashions and paintings people were buying. WE READ  a dozen books about World War I, since part of the action unfolds on the Front.  We located Gertrude Stein's salon in Paris, where she and Alice  entertained at their famed salon. We saw in the fabulous Musee d'orsay some of the paintings which hung in the jam-packed treasure trove collected by Stein, Toklas the Gertrude's brother Leo. Picasso's famous portrait of Stein. She hung it in her Paris salon, where our characters are invited.   We booked shows in the  much photographed Moulin Rouge.  Famous Parisian gardens, avenues and night clubs all play a part in the drama of "Lilian's Last Dance." Famous Parisian gardens, avenues and night clubs all play a part in the drama of "Lilian's Last Dance."  WE TRAMPED  all over Paris -- from the Left Bank to Montmartre to the Jardin du Luxembourg, to the Moulin Rouge and  the Tuileries Garden, all of which were frequented by Stein and her lover cum secretary, Toklas. We found the home where Stein entertained, at 27 rue de Fleurus.  There, our character, Elfego Fuentes, comes calling, along with "real life" writers Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound.  By chance, we met an elderly woman whose aspiring painter grandmother was taken under Stein's generous wing. She provided marvelous detail. PAINTER ELFEGO  is one of the novel's major characters, a South American born artist whom Stein befriends. So we booked an Amazon cruise to find a village where Elfego might have grown up.  We flew to Quito, Peru, then cruised through the rain forests to Brazil. Curiosity about the Hawaiian paniolo provided an excuse for a return trip to Hawaii's Big Island and the Parker Ranch. We were smudged by witch doctors. Deep in the Peruvian jungle, we found a village settled in the early 1900s.  This would be Elfego's birth place! More later... ********* WE'RE EXCITED  about early reviews for "Lilian's Last Dance." Here's one from Elle Pieffe, of Rome, who liked the title character and her relationship with painter Elfego Fuentes: "Lilian's daring, beautiful soul shines in the brush strokes of her Peruvian soul mate artist, in the sizzling shots of a western gunfire duel, in the silvery rain blessing Paris in winter.... a colorful portrait of a person we'd love to have met.....and won't forget! You'll love this book, absolutely. (Find "Lilian's Last Dance" on Amazon eBooks.) Bill Jones painted this cowboy watercolor on a research trip to Hawaii. Terrific trio: Cortez Johnson, Jacque Wilke, DeLeon Dallas are terrific in San Diego Rep's "Honky," up next at: www.whereiscookie COMING SOON:   Having fun revisiting the locales we researched for "Lilian's Last Dance."  Soon, we hit Hawaii to bone up on the Hawaiian paniolo, or cowboy, who figures in the plot of "Lilian..." in the form of a wahine paniolo, yes, a female, a cowgirl in love with Pancho Villa.  But first, we critique the raucous "Honky," just opened at San Diego Repertory Theatre.  It's a deftly written, well acted play about racism, consumerism, marketing hype and a drug that could cure bigotry!  Remember: carpe diem, so explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at:   www.whereiscookie.com

THE FOLLOWING SPECIAL posting is one of several recently published newspaper articles.  It ran in the hometown paper of novelist Christene Meyers, a Montana native launching an international book tour in Australia and New Zealand.  Meyers grew up in Montana, where the novel is partly set. It is garnering praise on Amazon as an eBook. "LILIAN'S LAST DANCE" features a love triangle, and a troupe of actors in New York, Europe and Los Angeles during the transition from silent movies to talkies.  Meyers began writing as a 17-year old student at Rocky Mountain College and worked as editor, arts review and travel writer for many years. She is also a poet, musician and performer, pursuing an advanced degree in poetry and play writing at Sarah Lawrence College. WHERE IS COOKIE resumes its regular Wednesday and weekend postings Dec. 3, with a look at San Diego's innovative Cygnet Theatre and its holiday fare.   CLICK HERE TO BUY Lilian's Last Dance

Two new fires erupted as crews remove tons of debris from Eaton and Pacific Palisades fire areas, fearing mudslides and more damage as thousands of tons of debris are swept away in forecast rains. Red Flag warnings increased even into northern and central California. --FIRE PHOTOS COURTESY AP, Getty Images, MSN NEW FIRES, INCREASING WINDS, MORE EVACUATIONS: FIRE CONTAINMENT INCHES ALONG, TONS OF DEBRIS CLEARED, CALIFORNIA BRACES FOR RAIN, MUDSLIDES   The American Red Cross and Project HOPE are helping thousands of evacuees, first responders and fire crews. To help with food, hygiene, shelter, counseling: www.redcross.org ; www.projecthope.org Sunset Boulevard and the Pantages Theatre, built in 1930 as a Vaudeville house, film and performance venue.  For many years it hosted the Academy Awards. It holds a special place in the hearts of writer Christene Meyers, and her photographer husband, Bruce Keller, whose mother Jean, an art major, left University of Minnesota in 1944 to rent a flat at Hollywood and Vine & design window displays.  Meyers and Keller visit Los Angeles often for theater, movies &"Jeopardy" tapings.    HISTORY AS FIRES SWEEP OVER  AN OLD FRIEND WHO WILL RISE FROM ASHES As a movie reviewer at The Billings Gazette, the writer spent   weekends in Los Angeles, where she interviewed hundreds of film stars, directors, producers, screen writers and designers and covered the Oscars.  The eerie sight of burned trees with downtown L.A. in the background  greets homeowners and emergency crews in Altadena, Pacific Palisades and other areas. L.A. now meets the threat of mudslides and more damage with rains forecast. As of Wednesday, more than 12,000 structures are destroyed, 27 are dead, more missing, and 60 square miles are burned.                                                               --Photo Courtesy Getty Images Aftermath of the Pacific Palisades fire. "The "destruction is unbelievable," a friend said today. Jan 23 fire update: Two new fires erupted north of Los Angeles. Over 100,000 people now have received evacuation orders with another 15,000 receiving evacuation warnings. Volunteers and fire crew are following an emergency order issued yesterday to clear debris ahead of forecast rains. Although rain is badly needed, it creates another risk: Mudslides, erosion  and floods, caused by rubble left by the fires. Hughes fire is at 14 percent containment. Sepulveda fire is nearly extinguished. Containment of the older fires is at 80 -90 per cent for Palisades, Eaton, Kenneth and Hurst fires. The Palisades fire invaded Pacific Palisades, Malibu, and Topanga and Mandeville canyons. Firefighters inched further as the Eaton fire caused destruction in Altadena, Pasadena and Sierra Madre — and is at 89% containment, according to Cal Fire. Damage is expected to surpass $250 billion, which would make these fires the costliest in U.S. history. We grieve devastating loss with dear friends whose childhood homes have been leveled, animals lost, personal memorabilia gone. Getty Center above Brentwood will reopen Jan. 28. But the priceless Getty Villa --while saved -- is closed indefinitely because of hazardous roads and leveled surroundings in the ghost town of Pacific Palisades.  Prolonged drought and renewed Santa Ana winds created possibly the worst wildfires in the country's history. Please keep imperiled Los Angeles in your thoughts and prayers and continue to check here and on Facebook daily. We offer ways people can help: www.redcross.org ; www.projecthope.org STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER                                                                                                       and newspaper archives  I DIDN'T REALIZE  how much Los Angeles means to me until the fires. Now I understand.   Debbie Reynolds and daughter Carrie Fisher, interviewed at a Hollywood awards ceremony. A new star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, at   Hollywood and Vine, awaits its a new gold name.   IN YEARS of globe trotting, I've spent more time visiting Los Angeles than any other place in the world, with New York, London and Barcelona the runners up. Makeup wizard and special effcts artist Andy Schoneberg and his partner and fellow artist Nicole Michaud, with Cookie and Keller and Schoneberg's Humphrey Bogart creation. He has lived in Los Angeles for the past 40 years.     ALL TOGETHER  I've logged about 7 years in the city -- in visits ranging from 3 days to 2 and 3 weeks. Trips to Disneyland as a young person, a honeymoon trip with late husband Bruce Meyers, five weeks with late husband Bill Jones researching our historical novel partly set in Los Angeles, and at least 10 visits a year during my 25-plus years as a movie critic. I covered the Oscars in the day when newspapers were king and the studios invited select film reviewers for world premiers and interviews. I've strolled the Walk of Keller's parents were married in Los Angeles in post-WWII. Meet William and Jean Keller. Fame many times, playing tourist, often catching sight of a star. Sometimes they remembered me -- Christopher Reeve and Bill Murray did. I've weaseled my way into Hollywood piano bars to play when the paid pianists took a break. I've sunbathed by the rooftop pool at the historic Hoxton Hotel, which opened in 1924 with star studded fun.  Looking like a mirage, Echo Mountain House was a favorite escape for sunshine and fruit groves. The Pasadena area was called "America's Italy."    MOST PEOPLE don't realize that there was a Los Angeles long before the metropolis we know today sprang from the desert.  L.A. was founded in 1781 by Spanish colonists and Pasadena has long been a popular winter destination for wealthy folks. The gorgeous chaparral and wildflower terrain that has been scorched in at least 8 wildfires reminded J. Paul Getty of his beloved First week's fire coverage, click here Italy. So much so that he built a lavish museum, Getty Villa, a replica of a luxurious compound destroyed by Vesuvius. There, in a building now closed but safe, his $10 billion collection awaits reopening probably months down the road.  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the Ahmanson Theatre, L.A. We photographed Getty Villa just before it closed indefinitely. It is J. Paul Getty's multi-billion- dollar museum, a showcase for his collection.  The landscape that attracted the rich for a century is now a charred graveyard. As it burns, its ashes cover the past of a city of remarkable incarnations. ON ONE  sunny afternoon 35 years ago, Bill Jones and I found the remains of Echo Mountain House, built in 1894.  The elegant Swiss inspired chalet was an astronomical observatory and hide-away for Gilded Age partiers.  They dressed to the nines for elegant dinner-dance parties and arrived by cable railway.  When the regular pianist takes a break, Cookie often charms herself into a piano bar to play a few sets, here at the Omni Lounge in L.A. IN NEARBY HOLLYWOOD,   I interviewed Debbie Reynolds and her daughter, Carrie Fisher, Shirley MacLaine, Jack Nicholson, Robert Redford, Sally Field, Christopher Reeve, Robert DeNiro, Meryl Streep, Dolly Parton, Liza Minnelli, Fred Astaire and many others. We stayed in posh hotels:  Chateau Marmont, The Beverly Hills and Beverly Wilshire, the stately Roosevelt, where Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks hung out.   Walt Disney Concert Hall hosts world class  musicians and conductors and is a regular player  in Cookie's world of theater and lively arts. Bruce Keller and his mom, Jean  Keller, sailed the harbors of Long Beach, Oceanside, etc. WITH BRUCE  Keller (aka "Bruce the Second,") I spend weekends 90 miles north of our San Diego home in L.A.  It is beloved by Keller because his mother came to the city as a young college arts student on spring break from University of Minnesota.  She never left.  For the past 18 years, we've watched fabulous opera and thrilled to Gustavo Dudamel's baton conducting the L.A. philharmonic at beautiful Walt Disney Concert Hall. We see plays at the Ahmanson, Mark Taper and Kirk Douglas theaters. We've been to a half-dozen "Jeopardy" tapings and spent time with the late Alex Trebek. We visit many friends, including Wyoming born Andy Schoenberg, a well known makeup artist and old pal, and Keller's oldest friend, Bob Hulbert. He and his wife Sue host us for musical gatherings where we sing show tunes and celebrate a long friendship. I'm the only "non-native" as Bruce, Bob and Sue are all southern Californians with long ties to Los Angeles. Keller took this night photo of the Pantages on our most recent visit. READING OF the fires is like hearing an old friend has a terminal illness. I pray to my agnostic gods that this city beloved by me, Keller and millions of others will rebound quickly, rising from the ashes to reinvent itself once again. As it does -- and as soon as possible -- we'll be back. For the show must go on. ************************************************************************************************************   Marielle Young as Luna and Jin Park as Jane forge a friendship in their mutual loneliness. BEST BET : If you love serious theater, with welcome comic relief, head for North Coast Repertory Theatre for "The Heart Sellers." It's a play for play goers, with a perfect theatrical triumvirate. New Yorker Kat Yen's deft direction thoughtfully develops Lloyd Suh's clever script, delivered by two splendid actors with delightful chemistry. The theme is integration-- two wives uprooted from their cultures to support their husbands' education and careers in an unnamed U.S. city. Playwright Suh created two endearing characters in this subtle and sometimes raucous  production. They have just met and are learning to trust one another. Marielle Young plays Luna, a gregarious Filipina woman, endowing her character with brashness and tender enthusiasm. Playing her reluctant Korean new friend Jane is Jin Park who gives her character just the right balance of reserve and delight.  Through two capable actors, a touching friendship develops. When Luna sings "Top of the World," that sweet Carpenters' song, we take  an emotional ride with her. It's a play of satisfying depth and subtlety with welcome moments of slapstick and lightness. It takes great talent to pull off a two- person show which never fails to engage and sustain us.  The collaboration of writer, director and actors opens the year at the Rep with a five-star show on an eye-catching set. northcoastrep.org  or call for tickets, call 858-481-1055 ***********************************************************************************  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on the trail of dolphins and whales, keeping safe distance from the fires.  Find some fire relief next week in southern California. ON TAP: Concerned about the tragic fires, worried about the safety of our many friends in Los Angeles and the havoc and loss of the terrible fires, we are thankful for progress on containment, and for our safety in San Diego. Now, we travel north of the city to romp with the whales. They're migrating from the north to the warm waters of the Baja and we're on their trail.  Meanwhile, keep the people and critters of Los Angeles in your hearts and minds, remembering to explore, learn, live and be kind, generous and helpful. Catch us weekly for stories on performance, nature, travel and -- sometimes -- breaking news, good or bad: www.whereiscookie.com

Dreams inspire trip, tattoos; roadies set off with a poem      POEM by CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER     This week, twin dreams came down to us with travel forecasts bold.      Our vision puts us on the road (We're doing what we're told.)      Midlife crisis?  Call us nuts.      For sticks and stones don't phase us.      We're grabbing gusto, bucket listing,      singing, playing, praise us!     We've bought twin Harleys, new tattoos      so on the road we're speeding.      Cookie's hair is nice and big      (We don't plan too much reading.)      By trains, boats, planes we'll navigate      We'll waken when it pleases.      We'll order well from room service,      take Cs to stave off sneezes.      From San Diego, up the coast,      Montana, 'round the planet      we'll feast on mangoes, lambchops, jam      perhaps a pomegranate.     Kel's fishing pole and Cookie's sax      will add to our diversions.    We're doing all the things we want,    please spare us vexed aspersions.      We've said so-long to work-aday    with all its cares and worry.    We're going where the sun is bright      and do not plan to hurry.      Our Yorkie kids are all packed up.      With kibbles, toys and sweaters.      We've tossed their leashes in a bag      so they, too, have no fetters.      Our gigs are multiple and fun,      some big fish in our calling.      Some bands, some dancing, gambling, too. Some wagons off we're falling.      We'll grab some shows: jazz, classics, blues, St.-Martin-in-the-Fields?      Predictable?  That's just not us.      We're kicking up our heels!       Sexy Marlon Brando      looked so handsome in his shirts.      But so does Keller -- check it out --      And he can sleep in yurts.     Paris beckons, London woos.      We've booked two top Ritz Carltons      In case you're wondering "what the hell?"      Beware of springtime charlatans.    So Carpe diem, have some fun.      Get out there. Shake that bed.      Come travel armchair or for real.      For soon we'll all be dead.      Next blog up: Europe through the eyes of our spirited travelers.     Next Wednesday, our roadies take us to Portugal, Italy, France and the Canary Islands, with a nod to fountains, harbors and house wine! Then Saturday next, a treasure trove of orchids in La Jolla Shores hotel basement.  Meet the magicians behind the blooms. We post on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: whereiscookie.com

November's Guy Fawkes Day celebrates a plot's failure with bonfire, fireworks, merriment STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & CM "The Carpe Diem Kids" Guy Fawkes Day offered a dream come true opportunity for Bruce Keller, who lit the bonfire in Yorkshire, UK. Guy Fawkes Day celebrates the failure of a 1605 plot to overthrow the King and blow up Parliament. It has largely lost its political connotations and is now a day of social gatherings, a meal, fireworks and, of course, a bonfire. MOST AMERICANS don't know much about Guy Fawkes or the day that honors his failed plot centuries ago to overthrow government. But it's a big deal in England, and we were in Yorkshire for last year's merry celebration. Guy Fawkes Night -- also known as Guy Fawkes Day, Bonfire Night or Fireworks Night -- is an annual commemoration observed on Nov. 5, primarily in Great Britain. It celebrates the failure of a 1605 plot by zealous Catholics to blow up Parliament and assassinate King James I who they believed was persecuting their people. Bruce Keller lights the flame to burn an effigy of Guy Fawkes, whose 1605 plot failed. IN YORKSHIRE, the holiday has a tinge of irony because that's where the rebel who gave the event its name was born. My husband, photographer Bruce Keller, was fascinated by the party preparation. Our host, Sue Speight, made sugary sweets and tasty chili. But what intrigued Keller most was the fire. Like many lads, he was a childhood pyromaniac, who accidentally ignited his back yard. Hearing that the celebration involved a bonfire, he was thrilled. He was invited to set the blaze of piles of trash, paper and wood scraps contributed by neighbors and topped with a straw-filled effigy of poor Guy Fawkes. Friends and neighbors gather for fireworks, sparklers, supper, sweets and beverages in the Speight barn. The finale: burning of Guy Fawkes. IN ITS EARLY days, the event was designed to reinforce anti-Catholic sentiment and the power of the Protestant state. Effigies of Guy Fawkes and the Pope were traditionally burnt accompanied by anti-Catholic sermons in Church. Today, that's gone and the festival has largely lost its religious and political connotations . We enjoyed plot toffee, new to us, a brittle and savory rich dark toffee, broken into pieces and traditionally served only on "Bonfire Night." Our host, Sue Speight said, "It's a chance to gather, to bring together neighbors and generations, have a nice meal and a bit of fun. We had Sue's delicious chili, but sometimes the celebration includes hot pork pies and those famous mushy peas. For dessert, we enjoyed Sue's parkin, a succulent ginger and syrup cake. We also had her excellent plot toffee, a brittle candy broken into pieces and served only on Bonfire Night. Bonfire Night host Sue Speight, right, with guests Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. IN LONDON and other UK cities, public events are held in major parks like Alexandra Palace and Battersea Park. And while the focus is now on community celebrations with food and fireworks, villages also host smaller, local events to share the history of the plot to blow up Parliament and assassinate the king. This failed plot sparked the tradition, which Parliament established in 1506 as a day of public thanksgiving. Guy Fawkes was a devout Catholic, whose plot didn't produce his desired effect, but did spark a centuries old holiday with sweets and bonfires. ******************************** Lisbon's bustling Mercado is a colorful place to visit, with a bounty of fresh produce, here peppers. UP NEXT : Lisbon's allure. One of the world's great seaports, this old, intriguing city has a wealth of wonders to explore, from markets to museums and more. We take you there, in a tuk-tuk, that fun and leisurely way to get to know Portugal's capital city.

Whereiscookie.com new web site STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" GREETINGS, GENTLE readers, fellow culture lovers and traveling friends. We have a new, flashy look and a jazzed up website which previews today. It's our official debut after three months of "packing." We will continue to take you with us on global and domestic romps, on adventures and encounters to make the world a better place. You'll still find us at www.whereiscookie.com , but now with a new flashy look. All our 800-plus stories on cruising, performance, train travel, bus tours, nature and family are preserved, including more than 5,000 photos. It's easy to find a particular topic -- check it out. We'll continue to bring you new stories on travel and theater, with touring and cruising tips and more. The Oct. 16 debut post later today is a lively story on exploring Vancouver's wonders from a bird's eye view aboard Big Bus Tours. Please sign up for new updates. We hope you're as excited as we are! Vancouver's Big Bus Tours offers a fun way to see this exciting Canadian city, with a lively narration of historical sites, parks, monuments, neighborhoods and the city's famous historical landmark, its Gastown Steam Clock.

YOU CAN TALK, WALK, TAKE PHOTOS WITH THE ANIMALS AT TWO AWARD WINNING, FUN AUSTRALIAN SANCTUARIES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller spend time with Maze, a charming new friend who awakened to play. Lone Pine bird trainers present an engaging show featuring various hawks, owls and other beautiful birds of prey, some rescues. A VISIT TO  Australia without a koala encounter would be like Christmas without Santa. A male kangaroo at Lone Pine snoozes, awaiting visitors. We fed him after he awakened and jumped toward us. We had the pleasure of a double koala hit on our recent return to Down Under. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary near Brisbane and Billabong Sanctuary 15 minutes from Townsville beckoned. Who can resist getting up close to a koala, that intriguing docile figure who spend 20 hours a day snoozing. We sampled the best of Australia's wildlife at these two well known enterprises. Lone Pine is the world's oldest and largest koala sanctuary, Billabong Sanctuary has been family owned for 40 years. View on the Brisbane River of whispy clouds and homes and landscapes, from Mirimar II. EACH HAS its own unique appeal, and differing ways to enjoy the wondrous creatures, exhibits and encounters that make this country's wildlife unique. More than 80 per cent of the country's plants, mammals, reptiles and frogs are unique to Australia and found nowhere else in the world. Millions of years of evolution as the continent split from the super continent Gondwana resulted in this fascinating mix of critters and birds. Cookie feeds a pair of Australian geese, one of the pleasures at Billabong. At Lone Pine, more than 100 contented koalas reside. Those sleepy residents of Australia's thousands of eucalyptus trees are the main attraction but this popular sanctuary is also home to dozens of contented kangaroos,shy dingos, saltwater crocodiles and a bounty of beautiful birds. Here you can hold a koala, pat a dingo, and view a saltwater crocodile from an underwater viewing dome. Trained sheep dogs are in residence, too, along with stealthy birds of prey, who perform with skilled trainers in a breathtaking show. The bird show draws oohs and aahs, as fascinated visitors sit in grandstands. Birds are cued to fly from one trainer to the other, so close one can feel the whoosh of their wings.   The place is best reached on the Miramar II boat, part of the popular Koala and River Cruise operation.  The crew is friendly, the Brisbane River journey beautiful and we enjoyed lovely scones and tea to enjoy during a delightful commentary.  Once at Lone Pine, one walks from a jetty through the forest, up 28 steps to a delightful complex spread artfully over 44 acres.  We especially enjoyed feeding the kangaroos, the fascinating birds of prey show and simply strolling the grounds.  A colorful parrot at Billabong Sanctuary talked to us as we surveyed him on his perch. ONE MAY book the five-hour Koala cruise easily on line, traveling on the Brisbane River past iconic landscape and historical homes with a pleasant commentary to enhance the journey.  Three hours with the animals and an hour each say on the boat make a delightful outing. More on the five-hour Koala Cruise here: Click here for more Lone Pine   Billabong pics in nature/Billabong AT THE 27 -acre Billabong Sanctuary, we enjoyed the interactive talks and feeding shows, wildlife presentation and holding a koala, an opportunity we couldn't resist. The lively place is 17 kilometers from Townsville, and it's about much more than the drowsy and charming koala.  We watched rangers handle snakes, learned about the wombat and marveled at the elusive cassowary, that handsome, large, flightless bird closely related to the emu and the heaviest bird in Australia.   This cassowary at Billabong looks like he is ready for war, with a striking "helmet" to help him push through tall grasses in the wild. WE WERE absolutely enchanted with her, in fact, and spent over an hour watching her.  The  distinctive "hood" and reddish plumage made a colorful spectacle as she ambled toward us. The goldish and brown "helmet" atop her head, above the blue feathers, is called a casque and helps her cut through vegetation in the wild. Wow!  WE GOT UP close and personal with the adorable koalas during the koala feeding, watching as rangers hand-fed fresh eucalyptus leaves to awaken the guys and gals. We watched with fascination as they clambered through trees to select their favorite tender green tips, and we learned about the fascinating lifestyle of these iconic Australian animals. Did you know that a koala can eat up to a tenth of its body weight in leaves every day? Yet, holding one, we felt how light she is. After instruction as to the proper holding technique, we found our Maze to be sweet and accommodating, even putting her hand on my arm. We took an Uber to the Billabong place, and the boat Miramar on the Mirimar Koala and River cruise to Lone Pine. This pleasant two-deck tourist boat has been taking visitors to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary for over 70 years and for us has been a "must do" experience all three visits to Brisbane. Here's looking at you.  Expressive eyes, and a somewhat dazed look are marks of the koala. They spend 20 hours daily munching eucalyptus leaves and are well represented in two Australia sanctuaries. WE RECOMMEND the cruise through Brisbane's historic landscapes, iconic attractions, pastoral scenery, mansions,  and interesting wildlife habitats. We were entertained by the recorded commentary, with occasional asides from the knowledgeable captain both coming and going.  Then we made the most of our three hours exploring Lone Pine.  We spent another three hours at Billabong, celebrating its 40th anniversary. We delighted in strolls around the grounds, enjoyed a half dozen talks, feedings and shows on wombats, crocodiles, reptiles, koalas, even dingos. Click for Koala River Cruise info Click for more on Lone Pine Click for more on Billabong The Australian Museum in Sydney is a wealth of fascinating exhibits, from Australia's connection to animals to indigenous cultures. UP NEXT:  The Australian Museum is like no other. Established in 1827, it has garnered worldwide attention for its anthropological and history collections, spread out over three floors in the heart of Sydney. The permanent display spans Indigenous Australian culture, Australian fossils and local animals. Changing exhibits come from around the world.  We were fascinated to spend several hours with the Machu Pichu exhibit, which included artifacts as well as a virtual reality visit, with capsule like chairs that moved to accentuate the experience of visiting this ancient wonder. Remember to explore, live and learn and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and the arts. thanks for sharing the links, too:   Click here for whereiscookie overview

A pumpkin carving contest on Queen Mary 2, offered a mix of spooky and amusing results, some irreverent, some ghoulish. Travelers find Halloween displays along with Day of the Dead and All Saints Day decor in hotels in Europe, Mexico, and other countries around the world as autumn holidays and celebrations merge and overlap. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" ALL THE WORLD seems to enjoy a celebration, be it pagan inspired or religious based. This time of year epitomizes that. Although Halloween and autumn's religious holidays are not technically related, they occur around the same time. Besides Halloween, All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead are famously celebrated in many countries around the world. Mexico City's Reforma stages an elaborate parade on Day of the Dead with food and feasting and the deceased honored by their loved ones. THESE AUTUMNAL holidays combine traditions and customs, sometimes religious, often pagan inspired, mostly for fun and a chance to enjoy the company of friends and family. Halloween is celebrated differently worldwide, with its roots in ancient Celtic traditions. In North America, it's known for costumes, trick-or-treating, and haunted attractions. Mexico, Puerto Rico and other places blend Halloween with All Saints Day Nov. 1 and All Souls Day, Nov. 2. These days honor saints and remember the deceased. In Mexican culture, Dia de los Muertos is a joyful, sacred observance of the deceased with food, music, photos, costumes, and memories. Mexico City has a huge, popular Day of the Dead parade Nov. 2. All Saints Day in a Barcelona cathedral involves candles and prayer for the dead. ALL SAINTS DAY is celebrated in historically Catholic countries, especially in Europe and Latin America, and is a public holiday in many, including Spain, France, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Mexico, and the Philippines . Customs vary, but often involve visiting graves, lighting candles, and offering flowers to honor saints and deceased loved ones, with variations seen in the celebrations in Mexico, the Philippines and elsewhere. A typical Halloween for Cookie with great niece and nephew, Peny and James, and their treat haul. WE WERE pleasantly surprised to find Halloween celebrated in Rome, Lisbon, Barcelona and San Juan recently -- with plenty of spooky charm. Halloween has become increasingly popular in Portugal over the years. We don't think of it as a traditional Portuguese holiday, yet we were greeted in our hotel with a display of carved pumpkins. Back in the states, neighbors and relatives carve them too, and collect treats door to door as we did as kids. A Halloween quartet of revelers in Europe, from left: Bruce, Christene, Maarten and Maarten, friends from Belgium (yes, both are Maarten.) The influence of global pop culture, advertising and locals of festivities have made Halloween a growing trend around the globe. Throughout southern Europe, we found eerie decorations, haunted events, trick or treaters on the streets and other lively activities. In some rural areas in southern Europe, children participate in a tradition called Bread for God. On the morning of All Saints' Day, kids go door-to-door asking for cakes, sweets, or small gifts, much like our trick-or-treating tradition, but with a more spiritual undertone and treats supposedly shared. As Halloween becomes more popular, it blends with these traditions, creating a unique fusion of religious based culture and modern Halloween festivities. ********************* Bruce Keller lights a bonfire topped with an effigy of Guy Fawkes, whose failed attempt to overthrow British government centuries ago is celebrated. UP NEXT: While we're celebrating, come with us to a Yorkshire fete, Guy Fawkes Day. We join friends who celebrate the failure of the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Fawkes was one of a disgruntled group of English Catholics involved in an elaborate scheme to overthrow government. He was born and educated in York before deciding to off the King and blow up Parliament. It's really a chance to have a party, invite friends for supper and fireworks, burn a large bonfire and burn Fawkes in effigy. Bruce Keller lit the flame.

Lovely Vancouver is best seen by Big Bus if you're there only briefly. It's a great option for an entertaining overview and if you have a bit more leisure time, it's a great way to get a taste and overview of a city. Editor's Note:  Today, we debut our new website. It makes it easier for you, our cherished readers, to find information on cities, tours, activities, cruises, trains, performance, special events in your area, parks, nature preserves and the lively mix of stories and photos you've come to enjoy these past 13-plus years. Our new server comes WITHOUT ADS, something we've worked on for months to achieve. We'll hope you'll sign up to receive our weekly posts. We've made it exciting, contemporary and easier for you to plan your own travels. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE'RE BUS junkies. We've toured dozens of the world's great cities by bus and for our time and money, there's no better tour operation. It's a reliable, pleasant, economical choice. The worldwide company Big Bus Tours offers sightseeing tours in many cities around the globe. We've hopped on and off Big Bus in Sydney, Singapore, London, Paris, New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles and recently in Vancouver. We had the pleasure of a personalized commentary from Sherry, whose insights added immense depth and detail to our time. Although Big Bus usually offers audio guided tours, we were lucky this recent day as Big Bus is revamping and improving its already popular operation. Vancouver's water and city skyline are observed from Big Bus, and you're free to hop off to explore. THE TOURS are typically hop-on, hop-off style, allowing passengers to board and disembark at designated stops along the route. In Vancouver, for example, we explored Stanley Park, Granville Island and Gastown, each unique to Vancouver. The places Big Bus selects to hop off are carefully chosen for history, architecture, famous landmarks such as churches, concert halls and theaters, parks, gardens, monuments, government buildings, shops, restaurants. In Vancouver, we viewed lovely landscaping and architecture, and an interesting ethnic mix of people, which make it such a pretty and diverse city. We also photographed young people in costume, for Vancouver's version of Comic-Con. Drivers are eager to show off their city, and we've always had good response to our questions, with pointers for restaurants, parks, museums with particular emphasis on special interests of ours: theater, music and contemporary art. Vancouver's version of Comic-Con was in swing during our recent visit, adding to the fun. WE WALKED from our hotel, to a centrally located landmark of the city. The Gastown Steam Clock is one of Vancouver’s most iconic timepieces and a must for anyone interested in the quirky and unique. It was built in 1977 by horologist Raymond Saunders, designed to harness steam from the city’s underground heating system. We photographed it along with a group of Japanese students, who giggled and photographed this crowd pleasing attraction. Not only does it tell time, but it does so stylishly, emitting puffs of steam and a happy whistle every 15 minutes. Vancouver's Steam Clock is a popular tourist attraction, and an easy walk from a Big Bus stop. DRIVER SHERRY was lively, informative, helpful and eager to show off her city. We've found that to be true worldwide, whether we get personalized comments or one of the excellent taped commentaries. Those are offered in multiple languages and the earphones are comfy, although one can bring one's own. A Big Bus tour is a great addition to any tour. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a Big Bus tour in Vancouver. Many visitors choose to do a whole loop first (most of the Big Bus cities have multiple routes) then decide where to hop off next round. A full loop is usually no longer than two hours.  For a newcomer to a new place to give important grounding, or as a comfortable way to reacquaint and remind of a city's pleasures, Big Bus is a good investment and a pleasant outing for singles, couples or families. We've made many international friends on Big Bus, another plus.  Please keep a lookout for fun weekly posts on our new website, with an improved array of links for destinations, cities, performance and other topics.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Last Saturday's "starter kit" talked prices and posed questions to ask yourself when planning a cruise. Cruising offers value, variety, safety and more... you pack and unpack  once!  Recapping: *Are the ship and amenities more important than ports? Prefer to sail the Norwegian Fjords or wander the streets of a Sicilian village? *Must you have an ocean view or balcony? Happy with a cheaper, inside cabin? What's your budget? *Do you want history lectures, Broadway revues, samba lessons, Mayan ruins, cobblestone streets, boutiques, wine tastings, a butler? * Will you buy a cruise-fly package? Are you embarking in one port and disembarking in another? Narrow the field. Here are nine favorite options. * Crystal.  This top-ranked line features fine dining afloat, impeccable service from the penthouse to the pub, pampering treatments (Crystal's "rejuvenating" spas were an artform years ago), understated elegance and itineraries for the "been there, done that" crowd who seek creative slants on familiar places. Crystal's art collection is heralded. She is tops in Travel and Leisure and Conde Nast Cruising offers beauty, relaxation, adventure and pampering. magazine critiques for 20 years. Personalized service, fabulous food, exclusive excursions, scores of complimentary amenities on two gorgeous ships and many other perks attract discerning travelers. www.crystalcruises.com * Oceania.  This mid-sized luxury line is also renowned for its celebrated dining, stunning public and private rooms, terrific land tours, built-in amenities and day-long pampering. Oceania and Crystal attract seasoned cruisers who know what they want and don't mind paying for it. Oceania's port-intensive itineraries often feature overnight visits. She boasts gourmet restaurants, "country club casual," and A Bon Appetit Culinary Center with hands-on cooking classes. www.oceania.com * Celebrity . Versatility and vitality marked a memorable birthday on the Century for my mother, with three generations toasting mum in Europe's grand ports. Celebrity's enhancements include tropical rain showers in the spa, perfectly grilled steaks in open air, interactive classes in art, concierge staterooms and an ice-topped bar with custom martinis. Newer additions to the fleet, Celebrity Reflection and Silhouette have cabana-style haven, real grass recreation areas. The line also offers relaxing Caribbean trips and coastal cruises, from Seattle to San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Diego and Catalina island. www.celebritycruises.com Amenities are part of the fun, here a welcome basket of fruit and sweets. * Cunard.  History, class, experience. Cunard has these in spades. I logged nine Atlantic crossings on the venerable QEII before she was retired to Dubai, and am contemplating a Mediterranean trip on one of the newer Queens. In the Queens and Princess Grill suites, the concierge, butler and amenities are sublime. Couples still dine in black tie and Canyon Ranch treatments are easily arranged, along with priority boarding and pre-dinner canapes en suite. Cunard combines old-world finesse with contemporary allure.   www.cunard.com  * Royal Caribbean International.  This mid-priced line is tops for overall quality. Its glamorous Oasis of the Seas made  headlines in 2010 for its size and splendor. Shore excursions spice up Keller's cruise!    Families love it. We do, too for bang for the buck. Passengers are a lively mix and the loyalty program attracts repeat cruisers galore. You can climb a mountain nine decks above the Boardwalk, watch an ice show, hit Starbucks, plan your land tour to capture New England fall foliage or study geology in the Canary Islands, prowl the wonders of Mumbai or Muscat, sail into Auckland, sip tea in Adelaide, walk the ruins of Ephesus on 22 ships with 280 ports-of-call in 80-plus countries. www.royalcaribbean.com * Holland America.  Whether your tastes run to the Yukon and Denali, or sun-soaked Mediterranean landscapes, Holland America's appealing, mid-sized ships offer "as you wish" dining, refined service and knowledgeable tour guides. This line also prides itself in its loyalty program, and "Mariners" enjoy savings. Whether you're walking in the footsteps of Alexander the Great or toasting under the glow of the Midnight A private balcony is a must for Cookie! Here leaving Florida. Sun, you'll find both surroundings and service to your liking. Like Cunard, Holland America has decades of history. Her Alaska packages are hard to beat. For fans of "Dancing with the Stars" there's an at sea version. www.hollandamerica.com * Princess Cruises. Always classy, Princess has carved a niche for herself for pampering, quality, diverse ports and ability to stretch the vacation dollar and still be classy about it. Aaron Spelling's 1977 "Love Boat," shot aboard the Sun Princess in Mexico, ecame a famously popular TV show, giving the line even more cache. My cruise-loving mum adored Princess ships because they sail the world and treat their passenger royally. www.princess.com * Norwegian Cruise Line.  Most lines make Hawaii stops but this is the only line to regularly transit the Hawaiian islands, visiting four isles in seven days with two overnight stays to give access to the Sailing in and out of port is one of cruising's excitements,  here Brazil beckons at night, after an Atlantic crossing. volcanos, luaus and waterfalls. Norwegian also visits Alaska, and her cruise tours venture deep into the wild, including railroad options, a tundra tour and a visit to a musher's home. The Pearl, Jewel and Sun are the newest ships sailing Alaska. NCL navigates the world with freedom, flexibility and a family fan club. www.ncl.com . * Carnival. From seven-day Mexican Riviera cruises to Alaskan and Caribbean itineraries, Carnival specializes in making the most of a vacation dollar and packing huge fun into your vacation. Her always-a-party ships cruise the globe and, as her name suggests, feature glittery, glitzy, non-stop action-packed cruising. Excellent value for the dollar. www.carnivalcruises.com COMING WEDNESDAY:  San Francisco opens her "Golden Gate"and we're giving away an autographed, first-edition book of poems to the winner of a "name your travel theme" contest. Details Wednesday! Remember to explore, learn, live! We post Wednesdays and Saturdays. Tell your friends about: whereiscookie.com

Dunedin is known as the Edinburgh of New Zealand, and has the green one sees in Scotland. Dunedin's Railway Station is beautifully restored to its 1906 grandeur.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE MEYERS WHEN THE  Scots came to Dunedin in 1848 they brought their culture along -- from bagpipes to cattle to a love of flowers and , yes, haggis. But if you don't like the squeal of the pipes or the mess of innards and arcane cooking methods, never mind. Dunedin has plenty of modern day appeal. The approach, via a pretty bay, previews the day.  You'll see lumber -- a major industry, and a well planned one -- an interesting skyline and plenty of critters, trees and flowers. Dunedin offers art aplenty, often in unexpected places. DUNEDIN  has the feel of a big city minus the crime, pollution and sleaze.  The country's second largest town has a distinct, rural feel. You'll see plump sheep grazing on the drive into town -- the harbor is a few miles from city center.  And you'll see dairy cattle, responsible for beautiful cheese you'll find at the fashionable shops.  Once in town, head to the train station to book a trip on the famed Taieri Gorge Railway, then enjoy the galleries, churches and restaurants galore -- we had a Turkish wrap and Greek food one day, and gorgeous lamb chops another. Rare penguins on the south island. DUNEDIN ALSO  has plenty of city allure, including the southern hemisphere's second-most-photographed building, the iconic Dunedin Railway Station.  Fully restored to its 1906 splendor, it hosts a weekly farmers' market and is where you'll go to book any of the exciting trips to the Taieri Gorge or elsewhere. Lumber is a huge industry in Dunedin. Left, the Taieri Gorge Railway offers a spectacular country ride. Dunedin's famous Railway Station. Known as the Edinburgh of New Zealand, Dunedin is the country's city of the south, wearing its Scottish heritage with pride. Surrounded by dramatic hills and at the foot of a long, picturesque harbor, Dunedin is one of the best-preserved Victorian and Edwardian cities in the southern hemisphere. ACCOMMODATIONS are varied and abundant, from charming B&Bs to luxury hotels such as the Hotel Regis, the St. Clair or Southern Cross. There's lots of nightlife, including funky, colorful places that reminded us of Melbourne's showy "after hours" places.  The food is as varied as the hotels, the bistros architecturally unique and fascinating. Wellington's people are rightly proud of her cable cars and the views they offer of the city.  WE DROVE  up the Otago Peninsula - the views are broad and beautiful and the beaches are rugged. Nestled at the foot of Taiaroa Head is the Royal Albatross Center, the only place on the mainland where you can view Northern Royal Albatross in its natural habitat. You'll also find near Dunedin a remarkable, rare penguin colony. We even found a shop selling vegetarian haggis! No mess, no fuss! COMING UP : Cable cars, vintage autos and organ music as we take to Wellington, New Zealand. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Expressive hands of a Maori elder welcome visitors and enhance a story in a village on a Waimaramamaori.com tour. Our guide, Denise, ponders a question in a pensive and reflective moment before a musical show. TRAVELERS LEARN OF ANCIENT CULTURE, ENJOY MUSIC, GAMES, TATTOOS, ART, TALES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  THE MAORI  people are a proud and noble race, descending from warriors, farmers, healers, astronomers and explorers.   The people go back as far as known New Zealand history.  In fact, the first settlers of New Zealand were the Polynesian forebears of today's proud Maori people. No one is certain where they came from or precisely when they arrived.  Some think they originated on the Cook Islands, others think Tahiti or the Marquesas. Denise and her cousin, and now a nephew, above, lead demonstrations and illustrate Maori games for tourists. The tattoo is an art for the Maori people. Eels are cultivated as a crop in the Maori culture. TODAY'S Maori carry on the cultural traditions of music, family loyalty, crafts and gardening.  Group singing and dancing, or "kapa haka," has real power. The gentle people can sound fierce in their chants, but soft as singers of the lullaby in their Polynesian sounding story-songs. IN VISITS  to two separate villages, we felt a closeness to the people we hadn't expected in just brief forays into their lives.   Young Maori students learn the art of music and dancing from the generations before. Their elaborately carved war canoes are respected globally. Their artful tattoos are passed on through generations, telling vivid stories of family, loss and accomplishment. Our two brief days with the Maori are treasured memories, highlights of our New Zealand time. The hours with these families -- generous hosts, good cooks, with wry humor and musical talent -- will stay with us forever. OUR FIRST guide, Denise, exhibited a warm humor and sly wit that we found typical of the Maori people. Dressed in a beautiful fur robe -- which some day will go to the next world with a revered ancestor -- Denise told us of her people's evolution, and the most devastating thing the Europeans brought to an ancient culture. "The musket," said Denise, "changed everything." For while Europeans brought pigs, potatoes and other welcome critters and crops, they also brought unwelcome muskets and disease. After a presentation which earned school credit, Maori students say farewell  to their guests with a handshake followed by forehead and nose touching.  More than 20,000 Maori were killed during the explorations and whaling excursions of the English and French explorers from 1769 to 1840. The "Musket Wars" and disease killed more than 20 per cent of the Maori population. But things are looking up for this ancient culture.  NEXT UP  at www.whereiscookie:  Cookie gets a New Zealand tattoo, visits a world class Maori museum and a Maori village and language station.  She and friends learn to say hello and good-bye with her forehead and nose. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com