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Rock Creek Resort has an Old World charm, enhanced by its owners' European roots and sensibilities.  ROCK CREEK RESORT OFFERS OLD WORLD CHARM, REVISITS A GENTLER TIME OF HOTEL HOSPITALITY A columbine at the lobby entrance trumpets your arrival. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bikes are a leisurely way to enjoy the scenery at Rock Creek Resort. WHEN ROCK CREEK  Resort began to create the legendary place it is today, owner Pepi Gramshammer drew from childhood memories of Alpine scenery and the food of his native Austria. He was a young man with an ambitious idea. Hailing from Innsbruck, Austria, he was a championship ski racer, internationally known. While his athletic abilities were well established, he was also becoming a fine amateur cook, developing a taste for  gastronomic pleasures. Enter, Piney Dell, which I first visited as a youngster with my parents and grandparents. Gramshammer and his wife Sheika are proud owners of Rock Creek Resort, on which the charming restaurant -- now Old Piney Dell -- resides. The place's ties to Pepi go back to the 1960s when he purchased a small restaurant and bar already on the premises. Today's Rock Creek Resort includes Old Piney Dell and offers outdoor activities one would expect in an alpine resort abroad or in any upscale mountain-surrounded locale. In the European tradition, Gramshammer has integrated cultural experiences, shopping, scenic drives, and more into the appeal for his resort. Old Piney Dell goes back decades, and was a favorite of this reporter's family as she grew up in the 1960s. Beartooth Lodge was added to the resort in the 1970s when the owner branched out and determined there was a calling for cozy lodging as well as fine food. NOW IN his 80s, he no longer gets to Red Lodge much.  But Sheika makes regular visits to inspect the property and insure high standards are enforced.  The couple also owns and operates Hotel Gasthof Gramshammer in Vail, Colorado, which they began developing around the same time Pepi scouted out Piney Dell. When he first came to Red Lodge more than 50 years ago, he fell in love with the area and its signature mountains. He started a ski race camp up on top of the Beartooth Pass, and bought the restaurant as a way to feed his racers.  Its popularity grew and he returned each year to build up the restaurant's growing clientele. WHEN PEPI purchased the property, the much loved restaurant and bar were already in place. The building -- now more than 90 years old --  evolved from a homesteader’s cabin built in the 1920s. The ambiance is rustic and friendly.  The menu features fresh fish, steaks and pastas, with a nod to the schnitzel and veal of Pepi's upbringing. Old-fashioned, cordial service is a point of pride. Pepi Gramshammer built Rock Creek Resort up from a small, rustic restaurant and bar to a world class resort with fine dining. GUESTS OF the restaurant were thrilled when the dining enterprise   got the complement of lodging in the 1970s.  Responding to requests for overnight facilities, Pepi began development of the resort.  He first built he Grizzly Condos to house the ski racers. Over the decades he added Rock Creek Town Homes, Stoney Cabin, Beartooth Lodge and finally the log building Twin Elk. TAKING A CUE  from Europeans' pleasure in nature, Rock Creek is designed for lovers of the outdoors.  The creek from which the place takes its name is right out the window, and our favorite rooms have views of the rushing waters. If staying put, watching birds, sipping a cuppa or glass of wine are your ideals, Rock Creek is your place. Soak in a hot tub, rejuvenate in the sauna, swim laps in the large heated pool or work off a Piney Dell dinner in the gym -- if you dare. Rock Creek gives its name to a popular resort near Red Lodge. THE WEEKEND  we visited in mid-July, a family from Maryland was enjoying the catch and release fishing pond. An older couple celebrated an anniversary in the restaurant. A young couple planned a wedding -- the place offers spacious reception facilities. It also offers volleyball court, bikes, playground, a soccer field and hiking out the back door. Nearby Red Lodge offers shopping, art galleries, a historical museum, restaurants, and lively taverns. Plan a stay around popular events including the Christmas Stroll, Winter Carnival, Fourth of July Home of Champions Rodeo, the Beartooth Rally, the Festival of Nations, and Oktoberfest. For a calendar of local events, visit RedLodge.com . Call the resort at 406 446-1111. Reservations are recommended at Old Piney Dell by calling 406 446-1196. A Barbara Adams landscape of Bridger Creek features sky blues and greens. COMING UP :  Montana Meadowlark Photography offers fresh, poetic images of the landscape we all love, the scenes that attract us to Montana. Barbara Adams jumps in her car and takes off, guided by her love of Big Sky Country.  She spends the day looking for the perfect clouds or a pair of horses at play.  Remember to explore, learn and live and have a look at her imaginative work next up at www.whereiscookie.com

Old Piney Dell grew from a mountain cabin to a world class restaurant with old world European service and offerings. WOULD RESTAURANT HOLD UP TO MEMORIES OF YORE? YES, RECENT TASTY TRIP PROVED Rock Creek Resort grew up around  Old Piney Dell restaurant.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The rustic charm of Old Piney Dell remains through the decades. WHEN OLD PINEY DELL  was becoming the legendary Carbon County eatery it is today, I was a youngster growing up in nearby Stillwater County -- just a pleasant drive through the hills, farmland and aspen groves to this rustic Red Lodge, Montana, area restaurant. My family enjoyed the company of Piney Dell owner and Rock Creek Resort founder Pepi Gramshammer, who recently turned 84. They loved hearing him describe how the Beartooth Mountains recalled the mountain scenery of his childhood and how he designed the menu to feature satisfying fare of his native Austria. Pepi and my Norwegian grandfather Gustav swapped tales of Alpine woods, fondue dinners and mountain hikes. Pepi was an internationally known athlete -- and my dad and brothers were athletic, so daddy loved coming to the rustic restaurant to enjoy the bounty of the Alpine-style menu offerings and to chat with Pepi about their mutual love of nature, travel and sports. Pepi Gramshammer drew from his European roots and memories at Rock Creek Resort. DECADES LATER , I wondered if Old Piney Dell could live up to my glorious childhood memories.    We'd stayed several times through the years at Rock Creek Resort, but always on a Sunday or Monday, the two "dark" days when the restaurant is closed. The resort still has allure, even if you can't make a dinner at Old Piney Dell.  Our favorite rooms on the creek are restful and nicely appointed, there are lovely grounds to stroll and a bounty of flowers to photograph. And there are many restaurants in nearby Red Lodge. Recently, though, we timed our visit on Saturday, so we could dine at Old Piney Dell.  It was a trip down proverbial memory lane, with a delicious meal -- beautifully cooked and presented with the friendly flair I remembered. An abundance of flowers awaits the photographer; bees and birds abound. THE RESORT  grew up around the restaurant after Pepi purchased the property in the 1960s, the time my memories of the place begin. Cookie and Keller pay a visit to Piney Dell. The small, welcoming restaurant evolved from a homesteader’s cabin built in the 1920s. Pepi put his touch on that as he was beginning development of the resort. He built the Grizzly Condos first, to house fellow ski racers. The resort grew, with Rock Creek Town Homes, Stoney Cabin, the Beartooth Lodge and the handsome log building Twin Elk. Pepi added a fishing pond, soccer field, playground, volleyball court, indoor pool, hot tub, sauna and gym. The night we were there, a wedding party was whooping it up. It's a popular place for private fetes. The place had a magical feeling to me as a child.  I remembered a woodsy setting, Rock Creek running by the window, mature trees, delicious aromas, pleasant conversation and a small, intimate restaurant which drew me in like the lure of a sorcerer. THE MENU  includes standards popular through a half-century. There's still an old-world sense of charm to the place, and our meal was leisurely and well served. We were happy with pretty salads and perfectly cooked steak, while Pepi's signature weiner schnitzel was enjoyed at the next table. A lovely smoked trout appetizer is our recommendation, and the fondue is popular especially in winter. The menu also features shrimp, ribs, scampi, crab, bratwurst with spaetzle (those delectable German dumplings), homemade soups and desserts and a nice children's menu. Old Piney Dell recommends reservations, at 406 446-1196, open Tuesday through Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Call 1 800 667-1119 or go to www.rockcreekresort.com   A wonderful exhibition on the whale at San Diego's Natural History Museum was the beginning of our two-week whale odyssey. UP NEXT: What is it about whales that sweeps us off our feet?  We just saw a magnificent exhibition on the whale in San Diego at the Natural History Museum. That was our preview for a two-week whale-watching odyssey we'll share in the next month.  There is something magical and inspiring about seeing a humpback frolick in his natural environment, watching an Orca breach, or a minke play. We're on the whale trail and will be out of range for a few days, but we hope by this time next week to have wondrous photos to share, from Edmonds, Washington, and Puget Sound on up to Juneau, Alaska. So stay tuned, and  catch us on weekends -- as we all explore, learn and live.

Cookie shops for produce on an annual autumn road trip, here at a stand in the San Juaquin Valley.   THANKS TO FARMERS, WORKERS, FINE WEATHER, IRRIGATION FOR YEAR-ROUND BOUNTY  OF PRODUCE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Rows and rows of farmland being worked meet the eye near Bakersfield. DRIVING THROUGH California's Central Valley gives the tourist time to reflect on the importance of this fertile stretch of land and the hard working men and women who toil in the soil. It's truly the salad bowl of America, growing tasty tomatoes, broccoli, beans, carrots, peas, celery, eggplant, herbs, and all manner of citrus, tree fruits, nuts, table grapes and grapes for wine. THIS BEAUTIFUL and important stretch of land -- one of the most fertile in the world -- extends inland from and parallel to the Pacific Ocean between coastal mountains and the Rockies. It makes up 11 per cent of California, covering 18,000 square miles and yielding half of the nation's produce. If you enjoy green peppers in your scrambled eggs, homemade vegetable soup, guacamole or something more exotic, chances are it came from this part of California. That's thanks to an estimated half-million farmworkers -- some estimates are as high as 800,000 -- many from Mexico and Asia. Farmer's markets are a huge recipient of the bounty. James Hayes washes his daily harvest at California's Purple Martin Farm.  THIS ERA BEGAN  began as a reaction to canned and frozen foods in post World War II America.  California cuisine emerged as a chef-driven movement highlighting fresh seasonal produce. It introduced America to a new way to cook, encouraging fresh ingredients. While Boston based Julia Child was teaching us to use fresh produce in French cooking, the west coast brought us Alice Waters, America's farm-to-table pioneer and founder of Edible Schoolyard.  This farmer's market is in Oxnard, California,  the number of operating farmers markets  has more than tripled in the last decade.  In 1971, she opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, and served only organic and locally sourced foods. She, like Child, studied in France, and America's culinary renaissance borrowed large chapters from both French and Italian cooking. OUR NEPHEW  James Hayes, and his partner Kelle Martin, run a small produce operation on their farm in northern California -- not part of the central "salad bowl" but typical of many of the small farm-to-table businesses which supply fresh vegetables and herbs for local restaurants. More and more restaurants are proudly touting their use of locally sourced ingredients -- and many restaurants now even have their own herb gardens, supplemented by direct acquisition from farmers. These food trends naturally influence how we eat today. A Hmong worker is among thousands who help feed us.   A farm to table meal served by James Hayes and Kelle Martin at their farm near Point Arena. They grew everything but the lamb. THE CENTRAL Valley is really two valleys: the San Joaquin to the south and Sacramento to the north. Nearly 450 miles long, the valleys extend from Bakersfield up to Redding, 60 miles at the widest. The area is as large as nine of our country's smaller states and is the world’s largest patch of "Class 1 soil," the best there is. The 25-degree or less temperature swing from day to night is an ideal growing range for plants and the sun   shines nearly 300 days a year.   HOW DID this arid chaparral land bloom? With water. More than 7 million acres of the valleys are irrigated via an extensive system of reservoirs and canals. The region's major cities include the state capital Sacramento, as well as Chico, Redding, Stockton, Modesto, Fresno and Bakersfield.  Two rivers -- the Sacramento and the San Joaquin -- drain their respective valleys and meet to form the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, a large expanse of interconnected canals, stream beds, sloughs, marshes and peat islands. The delta empties eventually into San Francisco Bay and ultimately the Pacific Ocean. A drive through the valley renews one's appreciation for the beautiful nutritious food we take for granted. Alex Trebek on his 79th birthday last year, a few months after he announced his cancer diagnosis.  UP NEXT:  As we mourn the loss of "Jeopardy" host Alex Trebek, we wonder who will replace the dapper TV personality who waged a valiant war with pancreatic cancer and died Sunday morning. Speculation on his replacement has risen and while there will never be another Trebek, the show will go on. We remember our visits to the "Jeopardy" studio and our time with Trebek. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Artful Alpenhof offers ambiance, location, spectacular mountain views, gourmet breakfast in friendly Teton Village  Our early autumn visit to the Alpenhof yielded hospitality, fine food, splendid weather. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" IT MAKES  perfect sense that Europeans love the Alpenhof Lodge, tucked against the spectacular Grand Teton Range in Wyoming. The inn has the ambiance of a Swiss or Austrian chalet, with flowers in the window boxes, a full hot breakfast, and Old World hospitality. It even has a yodeling website! The Alpenhof has charm, convenience and location. From a cordial welcome at the front desk, to help with dining bookings, theater reservations, and park tips, the lodge delivers. Jenny Lake is one of the Grand Teton's loveliest. It also offers spa services and a top, high-quality massage program which is enjoyed by hikers in summer and the ski crowd in winter. Alpenhof Lodge in Grand Teton is just a dozen miles northwest of Jackson. The four-story Alpenhof boasts a casual bistro and a more formal restaurant called the Alpenrose  specializing in European dishes -- fondues, game dishes, schnitzels and the like.  An extensive wine list was attracting takers when we were there recently. THERE ARE  plenty of lovely hotels and inns in Jackson and Teton Village, but the Alpenhof is front and center at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain.  It's just steps to the aerial ski tram in winter.  In summer, the box office and staging area for the acclaimed Grand Teton Music Festival are a stone's throw away. Rose hips signal the onset of fall on a stroll near the Alpenhof. For natural wonders, the Alpenhof Lodge has proximity.   Grand Teton National Park's southern entrance is just north of Jackson and you may do what we did -- start in Yellowstone National Park and wend your way south, then take side trips from Moran Junction in the Jackson Hole Valley. Once the parks are reopened, of course! Meanwhile, here's a recap of the wonders we saw while based for a long weekend at Alpenhof. The inn is steeped in the hospitality of "gemutlichkeit," an Austrian word which conjures relaxation, laughter, music, fine food and wines and a leisurely pace.  All of that is offered at Alpenhof. One of the many artful touches at Alpenhof. IT'S A GOOD  idea to stay two full days, as we did, so you can properly experience the wonders surrounding you, and give proper attention to the Alpenhof's amenities. One day, we headed toward Dubois and traversed the rugged Togwotee Pass (the "w" is silent.)  This heavily wooded region is located on the continental divide in the Absaroka Mountains -- and recently experienced more than two feet of snow. The drive from Montana through Yellowstone then into the Tetons offers many opportunities to pause. We were spared, thank goodness, by planning our trip in late September just before the big blizzard   and the national monetary crisis conspired to close parks, passes and many roads and highways. WE HAD  perfect weather as we headed toward Dubois.  We decided not to go all the way there, choosing instead to find the famous Moulton Barn, in the Grand Eggs Benedict, perfectly done, and fresh fruit for an Alpenhof breakfast. Tetons.  The structure is one of the most photographed barns in the world and is celebrating its 100th birthday this year.  It was constructed in Mormon Row, now a well visited historic district, by T. A. Moulton to shelter his horses in the harsh winters for which the area is infamous. The Moulton Barn, one of the world's most photographed, makes a picturesque day trip from Teton Village.   WE SPENT  a peaceful hour there, talking to other writers and photographers, enjoying the plaques and historic photos and exploring the barns, fields and corrals in this Mormon settlement. The Alpenhof cloaked in snow during winter.   We enjoyed a drive past the lovely Jenny Lake Lodge, but didn't stop for a cuppa as planned, to enjoy the splendid view.  We were running out of time and sunlight. The proximity of winter skiing and a world-class music festival in summer are part of Teton Village's allure.   THE PARK'S eight large lakes and many small ones, plus glaciers, snowfields and lush pine, fir and spruce forests entertained us for another day's leisurely drive. By chance, as we returned, the mayor of Jackson popped by the parking lot, on his way to a reception.  Mark Barron's greeting is typical of the friendly welcome we received. Regrouping in our Alpenhof room, we decided on a soak in the hot tub, and a swim in the pool -- it was still warm enough to brave that. The Alpenhof's artful touches include plants and photos, tasteful pictures and prints, a "bring one and take one" library shelf, delightful plaques and Swiss-Austrian chalet hints. Antique touches abound in the Alpenhof's breakfast parlor. EACH MORNING , a tasty hot breakfast is served with all the traditional fixings, from homemade granola and muesli to fresh fruits, egg dishes, meats, cheeses, juices and yogurt. The coffee is served in a carafe -- excellent and strong -- and there are daily specials such as a Belgian inspired waffle and delicious Eggs Benedict which we enjoyed as our farewell. The Alpenhof is a real Alpine treasure, a picturesque entree to one of our nation's most revered national parks.  Warm, friendly service, cozy and quaint rooms and fabulous food in a gorgeous setting await.  All that and natural wonders.  A pleasant way to gild the lily! Rates vary, depending on the season.   307 733-3242. www.alpenhoflodge.com . Yellowstone National Park's many hot pools and geysers attract worldwide attention. Once the parks are open again, an international clientele returns. COMING next:  With the government shut-down, our national parks have sadly closed.  But the nation's first national park, Yellowstone, will soon be open for fans of winter wonderland. Don't miss our look at Yellowstone National Park in its autumnal splendor and winter glory. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller training for his diving instructor license, earned in 1976 You’ve got to love a town where National Public Radio news includes the morning surf report.  Start your San Diego day with the weather (usually gorgeous) then get tips on the waves and where to catch them.       When I listened to the Beach Boys in the 1960s, rockin’ out to “Good Vibrations,” I had no idea that some day I’d experience southern California culture as a resident.  Land-locked in the northern Rockies, I didn’t imagine that I’d be taking deep daily gulps of sea air, doing tai chi on the beach, watching the sun set in a new cove each evening, enjoying rich night life and a bonanza of terrific restaurants. Generally reveling in the privileges of residency with time to appreciate this unique town.         Although I’d visited a half-dozen times, these jam-packed vacations didn’t provide the leisure to get really acquainted with San Diego. My partner is a native San Diegan – born at Mercy Hospital 20 years before my first visit to his town. He grew up with pomegranate juice on his chin and sand in his toes – a true beach boy.  While I was practicing my piano in Montana, humming “Surfer Girl”  (do you love me, do you, surfer girl?), he was paddling out into the Pacific.  He was (and is!) the real deal – sailor, surfer, deep sea diver.  Our garage boasts three surf boards.  This guy knows his fish, shells, coral, eels, barnacles, reefs, kelp beds and whales.  San Diegans take time to smell the roses.  Here Cookie, Nick and Nora enjoy.       It took me a few twists and turns to settle down in this civilized, user-friendly town.  Among the draws for me and a million others:  the year-round 60-to-70 degree climate and flowers, including fabulous roses, blooming year-round.  People smile here -- does the salt air make them nicer? They even say hello to a stranger.        Take a break from the computer and twitter.  Open the front door and you’ll hear birds tweeting in the palm trees.   Even the parking lots are landscaped.  Hummers (the winged kind) flit about in the mall shrubbery.      San Diego has fabulous food of every ethnic variety.  What’s your preference?  Greek, Thai, Italian?  Maybe sushi or barbecue.  Theater of every kind. Cutting edge contemporary drama, classical, musicals.  San Diego has it all.  You can see “Pygmalion” one day and an August Wilson work the next.  San Diego Musical Theatre is bringing two favorites back -- “Sound of Music” and “Chicago, and San Diego has sent more new plays and musicals to Broadway than any other U.S. town.  Vocal repertoire?  We’re hearing Bach Collegium’s Valentine program in Balboa Park tomorrow.  Nordic Voices from Scandinavia plays Feb. 10, making its Southern California debut here in San Diego.  San Diego Symphony produces a vibrant, varied season and San Diego Opera just finished a rousing run of Donizetti’s “Daughter of the Regiment.”        Live music offers a range of blues, jazz and rock and roll.  Our friend Jesus Soriano, a native of Madrid, plays gorgeous classical guitar a couple nights a week at Costa Brava in Pacific Beach, with the tastiest, most authentic tapas in town, served by European born waiters and reasonably priced.   Cookie and Keller at Costa Brava, enjoying tasty tapas and classical guitar played  by Spaniard Jesus Soriano.      Garrison Keillor is spending Valentine’s Day here. The host of NPR’s “A Prairie Home Companion” will do a one-man show at Point Loma Nazarene University.   The list of famous folks who were born or lived in San Diego includes Robert Duvall, Tom Waits, Frank Zappa, Raquel Welch and Theodor Geisel of “Dr. Seuss” fame.  Quite a range of tastes and talent.      So here’s my Valentine to you, San Diego!  As my grandfather said, “I am as happy as if I were in my right  mind.” For me, that glorious state is induced by spending time here.  Nothing beats a Montana spring, but San Diego has spring year round.       Bring on those negative ions – they help my brain, calm me down.  In San Diego, I’m as relaxed as a Type-A Leo can be! I may not literally catch a wave, but I’m a contented armchair beach bum. Only wish I still had my T-bird! Fun. Fun. Fun.

Cousins gathered at High Chap memorial for mum's memorial  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By COSGRIFFES THE COSGRIFFES  are gathering again and the time is fast approaching.  The clan will convene in August to celebrate the brief but influential life of Eric Kenzo Otokawa.  We miss him terribly and send love to his mother, Misha, and to his siblings, Kenji Christopher and Kelly Midori, who will draw on their strength and our support as we pay homage to a young man beloved by us all.  The latest reports indicate that Amarylla and family are coming from the Bay Area, and Orion and boys and Kira from Portland.  Misha, Dave and Kenji are flying from Atlanta; Midori and her fiance Nick are flying out as well.  This is wonderful news.  We only wish that James and Kellie and Jim could make it from Northern Eric and his mother Misha: happy last August in California California.  The Montana contingent will be there --  Rick and Jane, Olivia and David, Patrick and Christena, Aurora and Rich and Connor and Elliana.  Several of our favorite cousins are coming too, including Nancy Ellen! This thrills us. Eric's memorial will be Aug. 11, Saturday, at High Chaparral, in the afternoon, probably around 4 p.m. Stay tuned. It will be followed by a family-friends dinner to which everyone is bringing favorite foods and specialties Eric liked.  (Uncle Corby's famous ribs and cousin Nancy's famous beans, for instance.)  While the clan is gathered, on Sunday, Aug. 12, we will convene in Columbus at the cemetery to briefly consecrate a new granite memorial on the four-generations plot. GRANDPA  Gus bought the eight plots soon after he and Gran moved to Stillwater County in 1916.  It is now complete, with the remains of Arthur Blount Pittendrigh and Christena Campbell Pittendrigh, gran's mother and father and our great-grandparents (and the great-great grandparents of the next generation, and great-great-great grandparents of their progeny! Wow.) We've lost two irreplaceable members, Robbie, front left, and  Eric, in aqua shirt top row. We will continue to live loving  and generous  lives and in so doing to honor them.   Also interred are Gustav Johan and Olive Blount Nystul; A. Robert and Donna Nystul, and, soon ashes of Richard E. and Ellen B. Cosgriffe, Peny and Robbie. (All seven Cosgriffe progeny's names are engraved on the African granite.) Keller and Cookie will fly to Montana July 27 to pick up Eric's bronze at the monument company, and Keller is installing it on the granite memorial at the family plot at High Chaparral.  Most people are arriving in Billings during the mid-week and there will be an informal gathering at High Chap Friday, Aug. 10 for those who can make it (all welcome -- check with Cookie e-mail about lodging and accommodation possibilities.) Several guests will be at High Chap and others at Grady's.  Some will be staying at the Big Yellow House in Absarokee with Misha's group.  We will endeavor to make everyone comfortable. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our posts on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Seattle based Candere offers delightfully different day on the waterways Seattle's lovely bays and inlets provide picturesque harbor for hundreds of boats, photographed near sunset from Candere. IT'S PERSONALIZED, HISTORIC, COMFY, WITH SPLENDID SCENERY, COMMENTARY AND COCKTAILS! Cookie takes notes as Candere glides into Lake Union. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Born and raised near Seattle's waters, Captain Dylan knows his boat and town. Among the houses you'll see is the "Sleepless in Seattle" one, at far right. A DAY ON the waters with  Candere offers a pleasant, friendly, welcoming way to enjoy an insider's look at Seattle's water pleasures. In this day of mass production and "take a number" tours, Candere provides that rare opportunity to customize your own outing, to see what you want, drink what you like and enjoy literate, engaging commentary about a region beloved by the boat's captain. WE CHOSE Candere after scouring dozens of brochures....... looking for a unique Seattle outing.  Having visited many times in all seasons, we wanted something fresh to photograph and write about.  We found it in spades. Or shall we say, "in a native son's waters." Candere means "to glow or shine" and your trip does both. A family endeavor and small, hands on enterprise, the operation is an entrepreneurial dare for a father-son team. "We wanted to come up with something unusual," says Dylan McCoy, "so we devised the idea of a private cocktail cruise." He knows Seattle better than most, and told its lively history from the water's point of view -- from logging shacks and Depression era slums to millionaire hideaways and state-of-the-art technological creations. THE COCKTAILS are indeed part of the attraction, but for us not the main event.  (I drink a bit of white wine and my partner-photographer Bruce Keller drinks non-alcoholic beer.)  Those with tastes for stronger spirits will not be disappointed as Dylan will ask your favorite beverage before you meet your custom tour. Candere cruising will take you inside Seattle's lesser known waterways, as well as into the more familiar parts of the city's vast water networks. With his expert hand at the helm, we cruised Lake Union, viewing Seattle's wonders close-up: seaplane take-offs and landings and Seattle's much photographed Space Needle.  We checked out Gas Works Park, the Fremont Bridge and St. Marks Cathedral, with interesting trivia about the floating homes for which Seattle is known. Candere is just the right size for a small party, with a cover that can come down in case of rains. While on the lake, we asked to see the house boat made famous by Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in the classic romantic comedy, "Sleepless in Seattle." It sold for two million bucks three years ago and sits at the end of a story-book dock with a flower-lined entry off Westlake Avenue North on the lake, probably one of the most iconic properties in Seattle -- right up there with the Space Needle. Cruising along, we perused the city's modestly maintained and oldest floating home.  Then there were the yachts -- nothing modest about them. Over the top, elegant, sleek. Dylan regaled us with stories of the classic cruisers and multi-million-dollar vessels docked all along the waterways. OUR TRIP  offered a delightful way to enjoy Seattle's varied waterways and learn something about this fertile, interesting part of the Pacific Northwest. Our young entrepreneur, Captain Dylan, helped restore his beloved sailboat with his dad, and the two intend to keep their small, personable enterprise hands on.   You can book the motor boat or Dylan's sailing vessel, for a few couples, a single couple wanting privacy and romance or a family having a reunion or birthday party. Prices vary and are based on what you want to see and how long you will be out. My husband is a sailor and helped with minor logistical sailing details but Dylan doesn't need help.  Recently, he began a partnership with another small charter company. "Our goal is to involve a variety of independent charter boats in the area to offer a mix of experiences and adventures on the water," Dylan says. "As we build, we hope to give back to our community. We're thinking 'Adventures with a purpose,' using profits to fund environmental projects and support worthy causes." UP NEXT:   We visit Lanzarote, in the Canary Islands, our favorite of this quiet and diverse grouping of islands south of Spain. A remarkable man, the late Cesar Manrique is responsible for giving the island a unique architectural character with splendid buildings merging land and sea, creature comforts and the wonders of nature. Architect Cesar Manrique gave the island its unique stamp.  His creative genius marks many of Lanzarote's buildings. Explore, learn and live and catch us each weekend for a novel approach to nature, travel and the arts.

The graceful Bridge of the Americas is the first impressive site, beginning the Panama Canal transit.from the Pacific   Panama Canal highlights Engineering marvel thrills as it raises the ship 85 feet to move it across land, Pacific to Atlantic It's a tight squeeze aboard the Legend of the Seas, at Mira Flores. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WHEN TEDDY  Roosevelt traveled to Panama in 1914 to proudly christen the new canal, he likely did not envision 14,000 ships a year transiting this “eighth wonder of the world.”  He surely knew, though, savvy man that he was, that the idea was not new. SINCE 1534,  sailors, explorers, kings and merchants had dreamed of connecting the oceans. It took Teddy and nearly 400 years, for the canal to happen. OUR RECENT  transit of this engineering wonder brought respect and delight for the feat often called the Crossroads of the World. Our bully President Theodore Roosevelt oversaw the realization of a long-term United States goal, knowing  the world needed a trans-isthmian canal to shave off thousands of miles, months of time and the long and arduous "around the horn" trip . THROUGH THE  1800s, American and British leaders and businessmen schemed for a way to ship goods quickly and cheaply between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. The California Gold Rush and the 1855 railroad put the notion back in the news. Abandoned by the French, after thousands of their workers died of malaria, the U.S. took a shot at the project in the early 1900s.   A colorful array of some of  one  freighter's shipment.  PULITZER  Prize winning author David McCullough describes the intricate political maneuvering in his epic, "The Path Between the Seas."  The sweeping tome chronicles   the complex creation of the Panama Canal. It's a first-rate drama of the bold and brilliant engineering feat and all its tragedy and triumph, told by a master historian. David McCullough's book about the canal's creation is good reading. Tugs and pilot boats are part of the water traffic during transit. The French had built the earlier Suez Canal, but that was in the desert on sandy earth.  They didn't have the savvy or equipment to break through the rocky earth in Central America. HERE ARE  some fun Panama canal facts.  Did you know? *The Chagres River is the only river on the planet flowing into two oceans, dumping its waters into oceans on two continents – on opposite sides of the Continental Divide.  *The Panama Canal is essentially a “water elevator” moving ships between the two oceans, Atlantic and Pacific.  It’s a gravity fed  elevator raising ships 85 feet up and over the Divide and across two earthquake faults.  * It represents a savings of 8,000 miles (rather than going around the tip of South America The thrill of transiting oceans through the locks attracts tourists worldwide, here aboard Royal Caribbean's Legend of the Seas.  The transit is narrated, through all three sets of locks, and takes a full, fascinating day on ship. The Pedro Miguel station awaits ships in transit on both sides.  or "the horn”) avoiding some of the coldest, most windy, most dangerous and roughest waters of the world. *The opening of the new, enlarged canal project has been delayed, due partly to flooding, and  to awarding the contract to the low bidder who ran out of money.  When we booked this spring cruise for 2014 – nearly two years ago – the new lane was to be open. *It is designed to increase the capacity for transporting goods and services from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and vice versa, enabling ships to carry three times larger capacity. * That the new, enlarged canal carried a price tag of $5.3 billion with contracts awarded to four countries:  Spain, Italy, Belgium and Panama. How is that international endeavor unfolding? It's $7 billion now and 18 months late. The expansion project is underway again, cutting a new trench. COMING WEDNESDAY:   The Panama Canal expansion may be open by late 2015.  That, too, is unfolding like a suspense novel.  It was supposed to open this year, but it was sidetracked, went way over budget and construction was stopped for months.   What will this "major heart surgery" do to the canal, and how much do ships pay for passage?   All at:   www.whereiscookie.com Please tell your friends and remember to explore, learn and live. We publish Wednesdays and weekends, rain or shine!

This New Year's paella features shrimp, but you can add other seafood, sausage or chicken! Be creative. Happy 2014. PAELLA WILL PLEASE -- PUT YOUR OWN SPIN ON IT FOR A NEW YEAR'S WEEK FEAST  This paella, prepared by Ecuador born Carlos Montero, features seafood. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NOTHING SAYS  "eating" in Spain the way the paella pan does. A celebration is underway the moment the pan is placed on the grill. Our favorite paella has plenty of seafood..  The original dish, born of a fisherman's leftover catch, always featured fish.  This recipe features shrimp, but you can substitute or add crab legs, mussels, making your own combination.  You can also add sausage or chicken.  Make it your own, by featuring whatever you like. Be adventuresome.   BUEN PROVECHO!  Which says "enjoy your meal" or "bon appetit" in Spanish! First, assemble your ingredients: These are basic paella ingredients, but you can be creative! 1 to 1 1/2 pounds raw extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined. (If you decide to use mussels or crab, cut the shrimp to a pound or less. Precise measurements are unimportant.) Coarse salt 2 1/4 cups bottled clam juice or fish or poultry broth 3/4 cup wine 1/2 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads  or powdered saffron 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/3 cup finely chopped onion 1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic , chopped 1 cup or more uncooked    rice This Spanish chef enjoys his job at Parador Aiguablava in eastern Spain. 2 tomatoes , peeled and coarsely chopped 2 teaspoons  paprika 1 (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained (optional - can use olives) 1 cup frozen peas 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (for garnish) Lemon wedges Cookie says, "Buen provecho!" Eggs, fruit and chocolate are typical "dulce o postre" offerings. * To add additional flavor, place the shells of the shrimp in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer over low heat  7 to 10 minutes. remove from heat and strain the broth; discarding shells. Add shrimp broth to clam or chicken broth to equal 2 1/4 cups. SINCE PAELLAS  are as different as their creators, you can invent your own variations to make the dish yours. Some people add sausages, small potatoes, or a favorite vegetable or poultry. I've eaten delicious paella with chicken legs and shrimp, or with clams, mussels and crab claws.The rice cooks up in the juices. Add it the last half hour or 45 minutes. Serve with salad and bread and a bit of "dulce o postre" -- Spanish dessert! A visit to New Orleans must include jazz aboard the steamboat Natchez! UP NEXT:  Take a trip to the Big Easy with us, for jazz on the historic steamboat Natchez, a stroll through the city's unique cemeteries, and more. Upcoming blogs will feature the island of Tenerife  and its pyramids.  Who knew, pyramids there!  The Seville, close-up with a visit to the heart of Andalucia. We also spotlight theater around San Diego. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The New Orleans skyline is bathed in light as Natchez departs the dock. Lively evening on the Mississippi harkens back to Mark Twain days and life on the river   "The Mississippi is well worth reading about. It is not a commonplace river, but on the contrary is in all ways remarkable. Considering the Missouri its main branch, it is the longest river in the world--four thousand three hundred miles."  From Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi" STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Natchez is one of only two steam-powered sternwheelers on the Mississippi. A STEAM  engine built in 1925, accompanied by a 32-note calliope and world-class Dixieland band beckon tourists aboard the Natchez in New Orleans for noisy fun. A true antique and treasure, the Natchez became one of only six true steam-powered sternwheelers playing the Mississippi when she was launched in 1975.  Reviving both the famous name Natchez (she is the ninth steamer to bear the moniker), she is now one of only two steam-powered sternwheelers plying the "Mighty Miss" today. SHE'S THE  real deal -- history and romance and an authentic river experience much like one from a Dukes of Dixieland heat up the dining and cocktail lounge on Natchez. century ago. We loved our evening on her -- for myriad reasons. Keller, a chief contractor, appreciated the mechanics, watching the engines work and chatting with two engineers, who were in constant communication with the pilot. Engineers at the controls have been with Natchez for years. I LOVED  the jazz upstairs in the dining room, where the Dukes of Dixieland cut loose with classic N'Awlins jazz tunes, including "St. James Infirmary" and many other classics, including "When the Saints Go Marching In." The Natchez rides smoothly across the waters and around the city and harbor, with a steering system taken entirely from another boat, the sternwheel Clairton.  Electric signals are transmitted down from the pilothouse to a receiver in the engine room, starting the hydraulic pumps which drive the ram and move the gilded tiller arm. THE PILOT turns the knob to the position he wants, which turns the corresponding dial in the engine room and sounds a bell.  The engineer moves his knob to the corresponding position. THIS STOPS  the bell and tells the pilot the engineer has received the signal, a kind of "steamboat style telegraph" system, time honored. The historic Natchez provides a tutorial on how she runs. While all this is transpiring, guests listen to jazz, sip a cocktail, walk the decks to enjoy the New Orleans skyline, and enjoy a sumptuous Louisiana feast with barbecue, salads, shrimp and luscious desserts. For an evening, we stepped back in time. Did I just hear did the raucous just kick in? Cadiz with its imposing buildings is an ancient port. Twain called the steamboat ``as beautiful as a wedding cake, but without the complications.`` Decades later, we second the motion, savoring the beauty of the red paddle wheel, the moans of the steam whistle as symbols of a bygone time. COMING UP : We continue our travels, with a    look at lovely Cadiz, one of the oldest continuously used port cities in the world. Then back to the Americas for frolic, a fun look back stage on cruise ship Serenade of the Seas, and tips on renting a car for your next European venture. Check us out at www.whereiscookie.com

The Cadiz Cathedral, "Catedral de Santa Cruz," offers spectacular views of the city and port from southern Spain. ANCIENT PORT CITY OFFERS GARDENS, CHURCHES, PARKS, PEACE, FLAMENCO PLUS GREAT SURFING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cadiz is known recently for shopping and surf, plus history! All roads point to Cadiz now, a hot new tourist spot. WHEN CHRISTOPHER  Columbus set forth from Europe, his last steps were taken in Cadiz. From this lovely and ancient city, he began his remarkable journey to the new world. For the curious traveler, there is much to recommend Cadiz.  The city comfortably blends recreation and commerce, religion and relaxation, gardens, castles and government buildings. Fishing, commerce and tourism provide Cádiz with its main sources of income. An array of ports attract business and pleasure welcomes barges, cruise ships and freighters to ports:  Cádiz, San Fernando, Puerto Real, Puerto de Santa María, Chiclana and Algeciras are all busy and bustling. A Cadiz local wears many colors on her wrist of spangles. THERE'S A NEW  slant to this old town, too.  Cadiz is becoming known to another kind of traveler -- the fly-in and cruise-in tourist. Long a port city attracting global travelers, this lively town has grown popular as a holiday destination among northern Europeans seeking good weather, long sandy beaches and fewer crowds than the nearby Costa del Sol or inland Seville, both busy and more crowded.  Thus, many hotels, restaurants, apartments and condos have been built.  My partner Keller's ears perked up when he heard Cádiz is also popular with surfers, as it is one of the few places in Spain to offer fabulous weather much of the year, and high seductive surfing waves! Whitewashed buildings glisten in the sun with the cathedral nearby.  And for visitors who want to explore the province, the white villages dotting the inland mountains are picture perfect, and the city's offers many museums housing among other treasures, a valuable collection of the work of Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. ONE OF THE  most famous Baroque Spanish painters, Murillo died in Cadiz.  He lived and painted all over Spain and is often mentioned along with Velázquez and Zurbarán. Murillo is most famous for his religious paintings, however, he also painted many scenes involving women and children from his time. Murillo died in 1682 in Cadiz   and was buried, according to the wishes of Murillo himself, in the Church of Santa Cruz. However, this church disappeared during the following French invasion of Spain. Fortunately,   Well known composer Manuel de Falla was born in Cadiz and buried there although he died in 1946 in Argentina where he lived and composed many years. A year later, he was entombed in the cathedral at Cádiz.  Its crypts and hallowed halls house the spirits of several other great artists and many members of parliament. the church was rebuilt many years later over the top of the old site. Historians and art scholars believe Murillo’s remains still lie there. Tenerife boasts pyramids, believe it or not! COMING SOON:  You know about the pyramids in Egypt and Mexico, but did you know that there are pyramids in the Canary Islands? Check it out at www.whereiscookie.com

The Pyramids of Guimar convinced famous Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl of a connection between Tenerife's ancient Guanche people and the civilizations in Central America and Egypt. PYRAMIDS OF GUIMAR INTRIGUE -- ARE THEY CONNECTED TO OTHER IN DISTANT LANDS? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grounds of the Casa Charcona Museum contain nautical lore, sculpture, pottery copies, mummies and much more, as Cookie discovers.  This inhabitant of Tenerife is happy in his environs. LONG BEFORE  the coming of the Spanish, a curious and striking people inhabited the land of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. Although these people lived just off the coast of Africa, with its predominantly dark-skinned people, the original Tenerife inhabitants were blue-eyed and blonde. SO IT IS  interesting that a blue-eyed, blonde explorer named Thor Heyerdahl fell in love with Tenerife and her pyramids. The world famous explorer and anthropologist studied the Tenerife pyramids and people, and made Tenerife his permanent home after he sailed the world's seas. The famed Scandinavian established a ground-breaking Norwegian-Spanish project in the Canary Islands in 1990, chiefly to protect the newly identified step-pyramids. THE PYRAMIDS of Güímar are six rectangular pyramid-shaped, terraced structures, built from lava stone without the use of mortar. Like other of the world's mysterious pyramids, these attract speculation and create wonder. Is there a connection between their builders and other pyramid makers? Keller enjoys a sculpture in the Casa Charcona Museum. Heyerdahl became enthralled with this and the country's early inhabitants --  the Guanches. He spread the word about their artwork, religion, architecture and of course the pyramids, which he researched avidly, describing similarities to pyramids worldwide. Many scholars believe that blue-eyed hunter-gatherers roamed prehistoric Europe. Some ancient peoples in Spain 7,000 years ago had blue eyes and dark skin, while the Tenerife people were fair of skin tone. Heyerdahl compared pyramids from around the world. ALTHOUGH IT  is unknown for sure how they arrived on the islands, the ever curious Norwegian and others proved that the Guanches shared various cultural characteristics with the ancient Egyptians. Heyerdahl also researched and wrote about their building style, noting that it seems to have been replicated in South and Central America. TO HEYERDAHL  and others, though, the most stunning link between the Guanches and the Egyptians is the pyramids. The Guanche-built step pyramids use the same model as those found on a grander scale in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Heyerdahl also noted that the Tenerife pyramids have an east-west alignment which indicates they had a religious purpose, associated with the rise and setting of the sun. The red dots mark the spots of the world's pyramids. CAREFULLY built stairways on the west side of each pyramid lead up to the summit, which has a flat platform covered with gravel. Scholars surmise these were used for sacrifice or other religious or ceremonial purposes. We know something of what the original Guanche looked like through the fortuitous existence of original mummies, on display in Pyramid in Chichen Itza out of Cancun.  The Tenerife pyramids resemble others, many believe.  the island's charming museum, Casa Chacona.  It  welcomes visitors with pottery copies of Heyerdahl's famed rafts and videos, photos and clippings of his journeys and private and public life along with the curiously beautiful mummies. The island also offers a wonderful dolphin park and glorious beaches -- clean, pretty and peaceful. COMING SOON:  Back stage theatrics shipboard, a famous Plantation named Oak Alley, renting a car abroad, and a visit to the the glorious Queen Mary, Winston Churchill's favorite ocean liner now a Long Beach hotel. Then we return to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and Ashland's lively cabaret. Tell your friends and remember to explore, learn and live.   Please check us out at www.whereiscookie.com