A fine place to start your tour of Madrid is at the Royal Palace, where nearby is an 8th Century Arab wall. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Madrid is a city that invites you to slow down, look around and enjoy the experience. As the capital of Spain, Madrid offers an exciting combination of history, culture, art, food, shopping, entertainment, and everyday Spanish life. From the magnificent Royal Palace and the elegant streets of the historic center to the famous Prado Museum and beautiful Retiro Park, there is something around nearly every corner. Add traditional tapas, lively cafés, late-evening dinners, flamenco, bustling markets, and welcoming neighborhoods, and it is easy to understand why Madrid deserves a place on every traveler's itinerary. Whether this is your first visit to Spain or you are returning to discover more, Madrid offers the perfect blend of famous attractions and authentic experiences. STEP INTO history in Madrid, where the narrow alleys and streets of this stately medieval city wind back into a rich history, originally as an Arab fortress. Madrid streets at night -- a glorious blaze of color. Madrid is known worldwide for its elegant boulevards and expansive, manicured parks such as the Buen Retiro. It’s renowned for its rich repositories of European art, including the Prado Museum’s works by Goya, Velázquez and other Spanish masters. The heart of old Hapsburg Madrid is the portico-lined Plaza Mayor, a delightful place to spend an hour or two with a variety of shops and eateries. THE ARAB influence permeates old Madrid. The city was founded on Calle Cuesta de la Vega, where a wall protected a fortress built in the 8th century by Emir Mohammed I. The city's name comes from the Arabic word, "mayrit," which means "water source". Madrid is famous for ham and here at a corner kiosk it is possible to buy a quick ham sandwich, fruit and drink. You'll want to visit the Royal Palace, at the Arab Wall, a stunning design with baroque touches and a gorgeous square. It is now mainly a place for ceremonial and public functions, and is open to the public as a museum of the country’s history. Why You Should Visit Madrid One of Madrid's greatest attractions is its ability to offer something for almost every kind of traveler. History lovers can explore centuries-old buildings and royal landmarks, while art enthusiasts can spend hours visiting some of Europe's most important museums. Travelers who enjoy wandering will discover charming streets, neighborhood cafés, colorful markets, and beautiful public squares without following a strict itinerary. World-Class Art and Museums Madrid is one of Europe's great art destinations. The Prado Museum is a highlight, with an extraordinary collection of European masterpieces. The city is also home to other major museums, including the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. The reigning King Felipe VI and the Royal Family do not reside in the palace, choosing instead the more modest Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid. Madrid's plazas and squares flow seamlessly from one street to another. Madreinos love to stroll. The Palace is fairly new by European standards, built in the 18th century by Philip V on the site of the old Alcázar fortress, another Moorish castle. The palace has 135,000 square meters (1,450,000 square feet) of floorspace and contains a whopping 3,418 rooms. It is the largest royal palace in Europe. Madrid is one of Europe's most elegant and lively cities. Dinner is usually taken after 10 p.m., and Madrilenos love to linger. A meal typically takes two or three hours. Impressively, the native folks don't seem to need much sleep. They party late at night and still arise in time for work at 9 a.m. No problema. THE CITY'S cultural offerings are vast and varied and there are cafes and bars for every budget. We based at the lovely Villa Real, in the Plaza de las Cortes, an upscale Derby hotel decorated with ancient art pieces and modern paintings. Besides the museums, the city's art galleries offer world class fare. The Circle of Fine Arts at Alcala Street is known for its graceful design. The stately Prado Museum, one of Europe's most famous cultural treasures, was putting the finishing touches on a major renovation during our recent visit. Museo del Prado was founded in 1819 as a public showcase for Spain’s royal art collection. Since then, the national institution has far surpassed, in both world renown and collection size, the walls of its exquisite 17th-century home. Like many old Madrid buildings, it was built 200 years before it became its present incarnation. In an effort to preserve authentic architecture and modernize gallery spaces, the Prado undertook a major renovation. The Hall of Realms was just finishing its "redo" when we were there a few weeks ago. A huge competition four years ago determined the architectural firm. This ice cream and dessert cafe has an easy view of lines for lotto tickets. The crowds near the back are patiently in line, too. But the Prado is not the only arts museum worthy of visiting. Of several dozen, many have free admission on certain days. One of the best things about Madrid is that you don't have to spend every minute visiting major attractions. Some of the most memorable moments can happen while simply walking through the city. Stop for coffee. Explore a neighborhood market. Sit in a plaza. Browse a small shop. Have a glass of something local and watch people going about their day. Madrid rewards travelers who leave a little room in their itinerary for spontaneity. Remember to make dinner reservations early if you're dining after 9 p.m. Once we booked an "early" dinner-dance show -- for 11 p.m. (The late show seating began at 12:45 a.m!) MADRID is lively, vibrant, changing. Ladies dress smartly, with tight jeans, form fitting blouses and plenty of decolletage. Men dress stylishly. And especially in early spring, and through winter and autumn, one rarely sees a woman without a nattily tied scarf. ******************************************************************************************** A fine production of "Smokey Joe's Cafe features three dozen rock 'n' roll, blues and other classic pop tunes, at New Village Arts in Carlsbad. UP NEXT: Curtain going up on an exciting spring arts season in southern California. From Hershey Felder's masterpiece, on the life of Beethoven, to a snappy rock-n-rollin' "Smokey Joe's Cafe" and other engaging musical and dramatic picks, we'll explore the best of our lively arts scene. San Diego Musical Theater offers a fine "Crazy for You" with Gershwin's magic, and ambitious Cygnet tackles "Angels in America." Theatrical treasures await. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each weekly for a fresh approach to travel, nature, family and the arts.

Brisbane's majestic skyline is an impressive, sky-high mix of contemporary architecture, artfully set off by well established trees, and places to be in nature even in mid-city. Here near city center, the Brisbane River provides an inviting oasis for this boating party. BUSTLING BRISBANE MIXES CITY ATTRACTIONS WITH OLD-WORLD CHARM, TREES & GAMBLING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" There’s something refreshingly easy about Brisbane. Maybe it’s the subtropical sunshine, the winding river that flows through the heart of the city, or the laid-back energy that makes visitors instantly slow down and stay awhile. Often overshadowed by Australia’s larger cities, Brisbane quietly surprises travelers with its thriving food scene, modern cultural spaces, lush parklands, and welcoming neighborhoods. Whether you’re sipping coffee in West End, exploring the galleries of South Bank, or cruising the river at sunset, Brisbane feels less like a stopover and more like a city you’ll want to return to again and again. BRISBANE HAS the feel of elegance and casual fun, city life and country charm. Visitors immediately feel its importance because of a vibrant mix of the stately, old, new and energetic. Along with that dignified façade, it's a city that likes gambling. "Welcome to Bris-Vegas," our captain said as he landed the plane. "Have fun, folks." I love casinos and gambling, so I cajoled Keller into accompanying me to aptly named Treasury Casino. What fun! It has all the games Vegas does -- minus video poker, my favorite. But Cleopatra was good to me on a fun game, "Queen of the Nile." $264.50 Aussie which paid a couple hours' fun and a nice dinner, about $175 U.S. Many Aussies love gambling, and spend millions each year in Brisbane. The Treasury Casino, is known simply as ''The Treasury'' to Brisbane folks. It also houses a hotel, restaurants, bars and a popular nightclub. Cookie won "for a change," she says. River City Cruises offers a full bar with a choice of libations for enjoying spectacular Brisbane views. Around the Treasury, tall, modern buildings provide a striking look to the downtown. Beautiful old banyan trees have been carefully preserved to frame contemporary architecture. There's an Asian influence of feng shui, with many skyscrapers built with "cut out" indentations for light, space, fresh air and plants. View after sunset from River City Cruises sunset cruise boat which offers a picturesque, relaxing way to see the city in changing light. PEOPLE HERE love the water and use it as a major way of getting around, which sensibly cuts down on traffic and pollution. The river is also a major tourist attraction. A daily free ferry makes its way along the river. We hopped on and off a dozen times during our week-long stay. We also used Brisbane's River City Cruises which offers fun options for enjoying spectacular views, particularly at sunset when the city takes on a rainbow-hued glow. The city's famed Story Bridge is world known as a heritage-listed landmark. It's a steel cantilever structure spanning the Brisbane River and carrying vehicular, bicycle and pedestrian traffic between the town's northern and the southern suburbs. A Chinese lion guards entrance to a temple in front of the popular Wheel of Brisbane. Bustling capital of Queensland, Brisbane is located on the often flooded Brisbane River. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers stroll Brisbane River pre-cruise. Brisbane Australia travel guide options: It's home to gorgeous gardens, busy markets and the progressive South Bank cultural precinct with the Queensland Museum and Sciencentre. One could spend a week dabbling in the acclaimed interactive exhibitions. We spent a couple hours -- not nearly enough -- at one of the gems in the city's cultural institutions. Queensland Gallery of Modern Art has an impressive range of major contemporary art pieces. Then we were off to Mt. Coot-tha, site of Brisbane Botanic Gardens, high above the city. Like many Australian places, the mountain is an Aboriginal name, meaning "place of honey." It is known for its delicious black honey and the beautiful wild, stingless bees who produce it. Brisbane's popular River City Cruises takes locals and tourists to historical landmarks, past new construction, homes of the rich and famous and more in a variety of trips, including a lovely sunset voyage with beautiful lights. River City passengers enjoy a beverage while changing light highlights city scenes. Passengers also stroll the boat and decks on a sunset cruise. MOST VISITORS to Brisbane spend as much time on the water as they do on land. We were no exception. Brisbane Australia travel guide options: Again, we used the city's delightful Cross River ferry system which connects all the major streets and destinations: Holman Street, Kangaroo Point, Riverside and Howard Smith Wharves, and Bulimba to Teneriffe. The old Customs House on the Brisbane River is visible from River City boats, a fine, classical style building, dating to 1848. The copper plated dome roof was built in 1889. The cyclist is a light hearted addition which displays Brisbane's humor. There are both the "City Cats" for a reasonable $5.60 Aussie fare (about $3.75 U.S.) and the free "Kitty Cats" -- part of Brisbane City Council's CityHopper service, a useful, complementary inner-city ferry service on the river. We hopped on and off CityHopper at seven stops between North Quay and Sydney Street, New Farm, which spans most of what we wanted to see. The ferries are fun and efficient. AT THE HEART of the city is South Bank, a multi-million dollars attraction. It's Brisbane’s premier lifestyle and cultural destination. Located on the banks of the Brisbane River, its 17 hectares boast world-class eateries, stunning river views and hundreds of delightful events. Artful fountains, steps and sculpture with running water encourage relaxation. The city will spend $48.7 million over the next three years to upgrade its ferry terminals including Dockside and Mowbray Park. We were impressed with the ferry network and accessible, well used public transportation. Millions are also spent on flood resilience. The bougainvillea line the Grand Arbour at the South Bank Parklands. Brisbane, Queensland's capital; 443 curling, tendril-like columns of steel are covered with a train of vibrant magenta bougainvillea. Brisbane's efficient ferry system makes transit in the city easy, fun and picturesque. BRISBANE IS a lively, exciting place. What struck us about the city is the amount of green space within the city. Its suburbs are full of trees and gardens. Dutton Park, Spring Hill and Kangaroo Point are all inviting -- spacious, green and a 15-20 minute drive to city center for plays, concerts, schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Neighborhoods are varied and lively -- including Sunnybank, a one-time semi-rural suburb with market gardens. It's surpassed Brisbane's Chinatown to claim itself the city's largest Asian community. We found it a great place for authentic Asian eats. It's beautiful day or night, when the city comes alive. Art is at the heart of Brisbane. These playful pelicans grace a riverfront park. Brisbane is an enticing melting pot of Southeast Asian cultures, shops and cuisines. Chinese, Taiwanese, Malaysian, Japanese, Korean, Singaporean and Vietnamese eateries abound. Supermarkets sell produce from multiple countries. We heard a dozen different languages in less than a day. What's not to like about this global gem? Information: Rivercitycruises.com.au Queenslandplaces.com.au Visitbrisbane.com.au UP SOON Lamb's Players Theatre BEST ON THE BOARDS: The colorful Waikiki Trolleys explore various routes around Honolulu, taking visitors and locals alike around this colorful city, for "hop on and hop off" convenience. UP NEXT: Honolulu calls us -- and we answer. It's one of our favorite cities in the planet because it has has everything: fabulous hotels, exotic shopping with bargains aplenty, gorgeous climate and beautiful flowers, birds galore and a gastronomic array of eateries with food from many Pacific Island cultures and the Far East. Museums, surfing, aquarium, zoo, parks, historic buildings, the Pearl Harbor memorial, helicopter tours. And the beach, with all its wonders. We explore it all from several color-coded Waikiki trolleys, and take you along the fun routes. waikikitrolley.com New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com

The view from our room at the lovely Ostello del Castello, where we spent a few peaceful nights before boarding Bernina Express for a dazzling journey from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland. Tirano, Italy, is a charming Alpine town and the perfect starting point for experiencing the spectacular Bernina Express through the Italian and Swiss Alps. Our stay at Ostello del Castello made Tirano an especially memorable base for this unforgettable train journey and for exploring this beautiful corner of Northern Italy. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER the Carpe Diem Kids YOU WON'T find a more amiable and accommodating host than Andrea, owner of Ostello del Castello, a lovely little inn in Tirano, Italy. The charms of hotel Ostello del Castello include great views of the mountains and a decor reflecting both new and old. And you won't find a more picturesque and friendly village with artful shops, delightful eateries, a knock-out mountain setting and easy access to the Bernina Express rail adventure. Bruce Keller, Andrea Gusmeroli and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at Andrea's hotel in Tirano. The host's helpful and welcoming nature is what we remember most about our visit to his 200-year old converted farm house. There are places you visit because they are famous, and then there are places you discover almost by accident and wish you had known about sooner. Tirano, Italy, is one of those special places. Nestled in the Italian Alps near the Swiss border, this lovely little town is more than just a stop along the way—it is a destination worth experiencing. We found the Ostello del Castello, a charming inn that provided a comfortable and welcoming home base as we explored the area. Even better, Tirano is an excellent transition and staging point for one of Europe's great rail adventures: the Bernina Express. From here, the journey into the Alps becomes part of the adventure itself, with dramatic mountains, deep valleys, beautiful villages, and unforgettable scenery around every turn. "Do you own it?" I asked, over a generous breakfast of fruits, cereals, pastries, meats and cheeses. "Well, yes, I do -- with the help of the bank," he winked. About to enjoy a leisurely meal at the artful Restaurant Paravicinni, with engaging artwork and fine service. ANDREA Gusmeroli and his lovely hotel and staff enhanced our stay at every turn. The inn's trademark is old world hospitality extended by genuinely helpful and pleasant people. We noticed this from the first afternoon when his assistant arranged a taxi. It was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived after a long day of travel. We'd begun our day in Rome, on to Milan then a train change and at last Tirano. Delicious salads include homemade wheat and sourdough rolls, with tasty farm fresh vegetables and herbs. So we were tired and didn't relish walking the half-mile on cobblestone streets with four bags from a two-month trip, and a full backpack to boot. After we rested, we asked for pointers on a nearby restaurant. We were steered down the easy hill past neatly kept homes bedecked with flowers and sporting vegetable gardens. Our destination was the fabulous Restaurant Paravicini. Both a local favorite and popular with tourists, the eatery offers tasty regional favorites. We tried excellent spaghetti with shrimp, and a rare steak and potatoes. Our pretty salad came with fresh herbs from the garden and a helpful staff served a crisp local white wine and Keller's faux beer. He pronounced it delicious, an Italian choice, Peroni, which became a favorite. The classy eatery features cave-like rooms with vaulted ceilings and a handsome, well stocked wine-cellar. Local meats are expertly prepared with, of course, delectable pasta. WE'D WALKED up the inn's patio in late afternoon so didn't notice the tiny lights. Later, at dusk, they twinkled to welcome us back. Then, with a view of mountains in moonlight, we settled into a comfy bed with a down comforter for one of the best night's sleep of our long trip. Tirano is in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, population 9,053, adjacent to the Switzerland-Italy border. The river Adda flows through town center. Here are a few pointers to enhance your visit: * Piazza Cavour. It's a charming square in the heart of Tirano. Cafes, shops, people watching. Fun place. Enjoying the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, during time in northern Italy. * The Church of Madonna di Tirano. This Roman Catholic church dates to the 1500s with a bell tower and ornate sculpture-lined interior. We thought it an enchanting combination of Tuscan, Lombard and Venetian architecture. * The Tirano Railway Station is where you'll go to board the Bernina Express or "Trenino del Bernina." The flashy red train connects Tirano with St. Moritz, climbing the spectacular Alps without the use of the rack. It is an engineering jewel of the Rhaetian Railway and in 2008 became part of the UNESCO Heritage. Tirano reminded us that sometimes the best part of traveling is discovering the places between the major destinations. With its Italian charm, beautiful Alpine setting, and convenient location for the Bernina Express, it makes a wonderful addition to a Northern Italy itinerary. Our stay at the Ostello del Castello added to the experience, giving us a lovely place to settle in before beginning our mountain journey. If you're planning a trip through Northern Italy or dreaming of riding the Bernina Express, don't overlook Tirano. It may be the perfect little Italian town to slow down, look around, and begin your next great adventure. Follow Where's Cookie for more travel stories, tips, and discoveries from the places we've been fortunate enough to explore. For a charming B&B experience with an amiable host and spectacular mountain views: www.ostellotirano.it/booking To book the Bernina Express: www.berninarailway.com UP NEXT: Montana's Tippet Rise Art Center opened the 2024 season with a flourish. Three standing room only concerts featured world renowned musicians and an internationally known mezzo-soprano, plus a pop up family concert delighted hikers, picnickers and others who happened to be at the arts center. More on this unique art-music-nature venue which is rapidly being included on thousands of peoples' bucket lists. It's no wonder performers from the world's great concert halls love the tranquility and beauty of Montana after the crush and pressure of concertizing and the rigors of hectic scheduling and constant travel. Take time to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Yevgeny Sudbin and his gifted children played piano duets as well as a violin piece Sunday at Tippet Rise, where the 2024 season is underway.

Roger Moore, Barbara Bach, Cubby Broccoli and Princess Anne at the premiere of "The Spy Who Loved Me." STORY, PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS and courtesy United Artists THE INVITATION came by certified mail -- delivered to the newsroom where I worked many years in Billings, Montana. I was invited to see the Queen -- not a drag show diva from a Vegas hotel. The real deal. Queen Elizabeth II. I flew off to a five-day party, whose zenith would occur on 7-7-77, in celebration of the Queen's Silver Jubilee and the debut of the latest 007 movie, "The Spy Who Loved Me." (The Queen's a fan of Bond. James Bond.) That Bond film starred Roger Moore, who passed away this week at age 89. He and his leading lady, Barbara Bach, would take part in the revels. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip greet crowds of well wishers at Buckingham Palace during festivities celebrating her 1977 Silver Jubilee. The royal family would attend a black tie opening of the film at Odeon Cinemas in Leicester Square. Three dozen U.S. film reviewers and travel- arts writers were guests of United Artists, invited through famed James Bond film producer Albert "Cubby" Broccoli, who hand-picked the journalists. Cookie attended one of London's famous street parties, July of 1977. Thousands of Londoners and tourists celebrated Queen Elizabeth II's 25th year. Memories of London and highlights of QE2's Silver Jubilee WE WOULD spend five hectic days and "black tie" nights in London, based at the plush InterContinental Hotel in Mayfair. We'd attend the world premiere of the film, have lunch in Kew Gardens, afternoon tea at the elegant Dorchester Hotel, a morning at the British Museum and afternoon at Tate Gallery, meet members of the royal family at a reception and join revelers at two of London's famous street fairs. Five of us would interview Moore. A quick run across Piccadilly is just the right place to catch the Queen's Guard passing by Hotel InterContinental. Broccoli, a jovial, smart film scholar, whose hobby was cooking, liked my interview style and film critiques. He knew I was a musician and would appreciate the film's theme song -- "Nobody Does It Better," famously sung for the picture by Carly Simon. Broccoli was instrumental in choosing the theme song and at a later United Artists film junket, he asked me to play it on the piano. INVITATION IN HAND, I approached my editor, Doc Bowler, a shrewd veteran newsman who knew a potential story when he saw it. I traded a few days off for a series of stories. I bought my black-tie dress at Hart-Albin, during a quick lunch break (I still have it, a tasteful floor-length swishy gown with just the right amount of decolletage.) In New York, our chartered plane to London was late. I played the piano --show tunes, Cole Porter and Gershwin -- for two hours. This gave me cache for the interview, I'm certain. The Queen Mum and Prince Charles during QE2's silver jubilee. Both participated in formal events. The always spirited "Queen Mum" was a highlight of the 1977 press trip. Cookie did not meet Prince Charles there, but did meet her favorite royal. She would later meet the Prince in Cody, Wyoming Sir Roger Moore loved London, but preferred Switzerland. Roger Moore as 007 in "The Spy Who Loved Me" Among other highlights of the visit -- one of 20-plus trips I've made to London -- was watching the Queen's Life Guard prance down Piccadilly. We gazed down from a penthouse suite at the InterContinental as they approached. Then we reporters grabbed our cameras, crossed the street and photographed them passing our hotel. WE MET both Princess Anne and the Queen Mum (the Queen Mum by far my favorite, for her wit and warmth -- the Scottish influence, no doubt.) The parties were great fun -- thousands of merry Englishmen toasting the queen on streets, lawns and in pubs. But the highlight of the five days was being chosen to interview Roger Moore, who was well into his seven-Bond run between 1973 and 1985. I'd watched him as a kid, playing a favorite TV show of my dad's, "The Saint," in which he portrayed that appealing worldly adventurer, Simon Templar. We loved how he navigated the globe in a spiffy white Volvo in a hit series between 1962 and 1969. Roger Moore as TV's The Saint. Bond. James Bond. Moore was an elegant 007. WHAT I REMEMBER most about the interview was Moore's elegance -- he put the five of us at ease immediately in his penthouse suite, offering shrimp and tea sandwiches and a full bar, where he recommended white wine -- he didn't drink martinis -- shaken or stirred. One of the memorable quotes from the interview: "I believe in love, generosity, good manners. Those should be taught in school." He talked about his thrill at being picked by Broccoli in 1972 to play Bond. "I was ecstatic. I had never been a cinema star, although I had TV success. I found out from Cubby that I had been short-listed to play Bond a decade earlier for "Dr. No." The part went to some Scottish guy named Sean." The evolution of "Nobody Does It Better" to becoming the movie's theme song is classic Hollywood, show biz story stuff. He talked about the lushness of the film's theme song, written by Marvin Hamlisch and Carole Bayer Sager. He thought it interesting that the only mention of the movie comes in the first verse: "Like heaven above me, the spy who loved me is keepin' all my secrets safe tonight." Roger Moore in his last years. The dapper and erudite 007 endures. A FAN OF trivia, he also told us that Hamlisch and Bayer Sager didn't write the song for the movie; producer Richard Perry convinced them to submit it for the film, and Broccoli loved it. Cubby asked the two to rework the song to make the lyric work for the 007 picture. The rest is history. Except, perhaps for "Goldfinger," Carly Simon's "Nobody Does It Better" is one of the most enduring, 007 theme songs. Roger Moore endures as my favorite Bond -- and that of many other 007 fans. Dapper, elegant, suave on screen -- and off camera, a gentleman. ******************************************* Less than two weeks after surgery performed by Dr. Jonathan Fisher, left, Bruce Keller's recovery is breaking records (knock wood). More next week. NEXT UP: Bruce Keller's successful liver transplant at Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, Calif., has attracted international attention on our blog with thousands of hits and comments from Peru to Portugal, Italy to Ireland, Singapore to San Francisco. At the Patient Patient's suggestion, we bumped our follow-up to the next posting. The always trending Mr. Keller deemed that Cookie's interview with Sir Roger Moore should go this week, current with Moore's recent passing. Next, we'll talk about the challenges of the transplant, as Keller breaks endurance records at Scripps. We'll describe fundamental changes in our lives, wrought by the transplant, and our schedule for getting back on track with theater, writing, his design and contracting work and our international travel. With an eye on the road ahead, remember to laugh, learn and live, and catch us weekends.

The Louvre Museum stands proud into the centuries, photographed from the Seine on a recent trip. And don't miss our favorite Musee d"orsay nearby. Housed in the former Gare d'Orsay, a Beaux-Arts railway station built between 1898 and 1900, it houses many well known works of a more contemporary vein. The Pont Alexandre is one of the world's most lavish bridges, and a much photographed Paris icon. Paris travel guide includes MONUMENTS, MUSEUMS, MUSIC AND MEMORIES LURE LOVERS BACK TO THE LORE, ROMANCE, HISTORY, CUISINE OF THE CITY OF LIGHTS “There is but one Paris......the French air clears the brain and does a world of good.” ― Vincent van Gogh STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" IF YOU HAVE never been to Paris, you must make at least one pilgrimage. Even into March, Paris can be brisk, so Keller bundles up for a stroll with Notre Dame behind him. If you have been, it's likely you've returned -- or plan to make an encore call. For Paris casts a spell on the visitor, more than any of the wonderful cities we've visited. Paris travel guide Paris is as intoxicating as a cocktail or a brothel on a Saturday night, as sophisticated as the best-dressed dandy at opera's opening night. It assails the senses like no other city, beckoning one to sip of the elixir, stay a while and let Paris cast its spell. The intricate detail of many of the famous Paris buildings draws repeat examinations -- favorites of these travelers are Opera Garnier, also known as the Academie National de Musique, Paris Opera and other names. The Arc de Triomphe is one of the world's most photographed monuments to the fallen. We recommend a full or half-day city tour to get started. Keller surveys the street from a doorway of one of the fine specialty food shops he and Cookie frequented each day. COLE PORTER was smitten by Paris and even lived there for a time during World War I. He wrote a musical, "Paris," which debuted on Broadway in 1928 and was his first huge hit. Porter's fondness for Paris embraced all 12 months of the year: "I love Paris in the spring time, I love Paris in the fall, I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles, I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles...." He called it a "timeless town" and it truly is. Take a cue from Cookie and Keller for at least one night on the town. Even on a recent drizzly grey rainy day, Paris is lovely. Here the Eiffel Tower. There's something for every taste in Paris -- world class museums, the planet's finest restaurants, jazz clubs, a lively night life, opera, fashionably dressed folks walking nicely groomed doggies, dapper old gents with canes, lovers, quiet little cafes, parks and graveyards to contemplate the wonders. ONE CAN wander into a cemetery and find monuments to Molière, Delacroix, Bizet, Chopin, Balzac and Proust. You might come across the graves of Georges Seurat, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, Colette, Edith Piaf or Marcel Marceau. Ex-pat writers Gertrude Stein and Richard Wright made Paris their final stop, too. You can shop for souvenirs of all kinds -- whether a box of fine chocolates or something more adventuresome. Take in the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, commissioned by Napoleon in 1805. It stands at the western end of the Champs-Élysées at the center of Place Charles de Gaulle. Between museums, take in a show at either the famed Moulin Rouge or Folies Bergere. HITLER surveyed the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe after the city fell in June of 1940, but the clever French cut the lift cables to the Tower as he arrived in the city. Troops climbed the tower to hoist their swastika flag -- so large it blew away and was replaced by a smaller version. Our guide proudly told us this story, adding, "The elevators magically began to work after the city was liberated on Aug. 25, 1944. The next day, General de Gaulle led a joyous liberation march down the Champs d'Elysees to the Arc." EVEN FOR multi-time return visitors, we recommend a city tour. We bought the Paris '"Hop On, Hop Off" package this last trip and thoroughly enjoyed meandering the city with a lively narrative and an international complement of fellow travelers. Once you've tasted of the delights of Paris, you'll be back for more. ********************************************************************************* Actors Lisa Gorell-Getz and Kevin Hafso Koppman are part of a terrific ensemble in North Coast Rep's thoughtful current production, "This Random World." BEST BETS: A new feature this week is our bet for a fabulous outing -- perhaps a hike, restaurant, boat trip or, as we offer today, a play you won't want to miss. North Coast Repertory Theatre's "This Random World" wittily examines the ways in which our lives intersect, parallel and misconnect. Play-wright Steven Dietz examines the notion of co-incidence, and apparently "random" ways in which we meet people, form associations, make decisions. Masterfully acted, this funny, fast- paced, touching play features David Ellenstein's nuanced direction. Catch it through March 18 in Solana Beach. northcoastrep.org ************************************** NEXT UP: A memorable trip to Ireland with her late mother makes Cookie glad she and her mum followed their dreams. A visit to Dublin's Temple Bar was on Ellen Cosgriffe's bucket list. When her flamboyant mother expressed interest in a trip to Ireland -- and a desire to play piano in a Dublin pub -- Cookie helped make that happen. The moral of this St. Patrick's Day story is "carpe diem." At Dublin's famous Temple Bar, both Cookie and her mother Ellen played piano. Remember to explore, learn and live -- and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature and the arts. New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com #Travel Blog #Travel #Adventure #Culture #Music n theater #WhereIsCookie

More than a half century after its release, the Montana-made movie, "Little Big Man" is still entertaining, stimulating conversation and encouraging consideration of the plight of indigenous people and the white man's role in that. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Cinema Center Films Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated July 30, 2026 Editor's note: As a young reporter, Christene Meyers covered the making of "Little Big Man," and its world premiere. She was among panel participants discussing the groundbreaking Montana made movie. When Little Big Man premiered 53 years ago, few could have predicted its lasting impact on Hollywood or Montana filmmaking. Christine "Cookie" Myers was just 20 years old when she became part of the groundbreaking production. Decades later, she returned as a panelist at the Little Big Man Symposium, sharing firsthand stories about working on the classic film, its world premiere, and the unforgettable people who helped make movie history in Big Sky Country. Chief Dan George portrayed Old Lodge Skins, receiving second billing to Dustin Hoffman, garnering an Academy Award nomination and other awards for his memorable performance. There is an endless supply of white men. There has always been a limited number of human beings.” -- Old Lodge Skins LITTLE BIG HORN DRAWS SCHOLARS, EXTRAS, MOVIE AND HISTORY BUFFS TO PONDER CLASSIC FILM Actor Dustin Hoffman on location during the 1969 filming of "Little Big Man," photographed on the Earl and Toni Rosell Ranch near Billings. HOLLYWOOD came to Montana in 1969 to film a movie that would change the way the world views indigenous people. When it debuted during the holidays of 1970, "Little Big Man" generated a then impressive $31 million box office. It premiered in time to qualify for Oscar consideration the next spring. A recent seminar in Hardin, Montana, celebrated the movie's contribution to the humanities and the ways in which it portrayed native Americans as "human beings." DUSTIN HOFFMAN was a young looking 33 -- just three years after he rose to fame as Benjamin in "The Graduate," seduced by an older Mrs. Robinson, his parents' friend. Genius makeup artist Dick Smith created a 121-year old character in Dustin Hoffman's Jack Crabb. Through the make-up wizardry of Hollywood artist Dick Smith, Hoffman's character Jack Crabb appears first as a 121-year old man, relating the story of his remarkable life to a reporter. The character undergoes many transformations in both the white and native worlds, leading many lives, including as a scout for General George Armstrong Custer during the infamous Indian Wars. Crabb's life is as complex as any portrayed in the movies. Panelists discussed the impact of the film, and acting as extras in the award-winning movie. CROW AND Cheyenne men and women – elderly now -- were 53 years younger when they acted along side Hoffman. They portrayed members of Little Big Man's adopted Indian family and for the real-life families, the picture gave their lives an economic boost. Panelists at a three-day "Little Big Man" symposium in Hardin recalled that dozens of native people earned from $10 or $25 a day -- more if they had their own horse -- during the filming. The gathering, sponsored by Little Symposium organizer Tim Bernardis spent years studying "Little Big Man" and planning for the festival marking its 53rd anniversary. Big Horn College, celebrated Montana’s connection to the film. It was the brainchild of author and veteran Crow Cultural Center library director Tim Bernardis, lifelong film aficionado. He spent years studying the movie, based on a 1964 novel by Thomas Berger and directed by Oscar winner Arthur Penn. Bernardis dreamed of a symposium to spotlight its impact and secured a grant to make it happen. Planned for 2020, 50 years after the film’s 1970 debut, the seminar was derailed by COVID. Bernardis wasn’t about to let the project be lost. “It is too important; we kept the dream alive,” he said. THE GROUNDBREAKING film begins with Crabb recalling the killing of his parents on their way west, and his rescue by Indians. Crabb describes multiple incarnations in diverse worlds, including earning the name "Little Big Man" from his adopted grandfather, Old Lodge Skins. His unique perspective and visits with his wise elder teach him the ways of the “human beings,” as Old Lodge Skins describes his people. Hoffman’s convincing acting continues to fascinate, 53 years after the film’s debut to critical acclaim. A scene from the film, "Little Big Man," now 53 years old, with this battle scene shot on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site. Some of the actors spoke at the seminar. During three lively and varied days, three years after the COVID postponement, presenters considered a wide range of topics, from academic insights to emotional musings and humorous, touching impressions. Some gave vivid back stories, examples of present-day racism, feeling that the culture is back-sliding in a sea of increasing bigotry. Symposium emcee Sidney Chip Fitzpatrick Jr., related a vivid example of recent racism experienced when an elderly white woman accosted his daughter with verbal slurs in a Billings store. “We still have a lot of work to do,” Fitzpatrick said, "to make certain that native Americans are regarded as human beings, not caricature drunks and other stereotypes.” Sidney "Chip" Fitzpatrick Jr acted as emcee at the fete. Young beautifully dressed Indian girls delighted with their performances during the "LBM" symposium. AMONG THE TOPICS was an examination of Richard Mulligan's portrayal of George Armstrong Custer, the man whose “Last Stand” came on a grassy knoll near Hardin. The Little Bighorn battle scenes were filmed on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site, lending authenticity to the movie. Between presentations, seminar guests recalled the changing of the name Custer Battlefield to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in 1991. “It is important to recognize the indigenous perspective,” said one woman. “A very good thing.” Artists, historians, townsfolk and friends mingled to discuss the movie and its impact. DANCERS AND drummers entertained at lunch time in the school cafeteria, while guests and participants reminisced about the movie's beginnings. Director Penn read the book in 1966 and loved it. Billings mayor Willard Fraser got wind of the project and heard Arizona and Mexico were being considered as locations. He recruited arts advocate and rancher Earl Rosell to help sell Montana to Hollywood. Fraser called upon his Indian friends—Johnny Wooden Legs, Edison Real Bird, Henry Old Coyote, Susie Yellowtail and others -- and with Rosell, they "sold" the Montana location, making lobbying trips to Hollywood and Cinema Center Films on their own dime. Fraser biographer Lou Mandler described Fraser’s courting of “Little Big Man” producer Stuart Millar. The persistent, Montana boosting mayor toured Millar and movie scouts around Montana, enumerating the advantages of shooting a motion picture about Indians in authentic Indian country. “The realism of the film would boost box office sales,” Fraser wrote. His lobbying proved effective and filming began on the Rosell ranch in summer of 1969. Rosell even scored a cameo as a soldier who spares Little Big Man when he realizes the Dustin Hoffman character is white, not Indian. Rene Rosell Yarborough and Christene "Cookie" Meyers" were panelists. Rosell is holding the sword her father used in a cameo scene. Here are links to some of the most watched clips from the movie, featuring Dustin Hoffman as Jack Crabb and Richard Mulligan as a deranged, egocentric General Custer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kflV0EBLBWIhttps://www.youtube.com/watch? v=4hJ9igq1zZ8https://www.youtube.com/watch? For Cookie, the symposium was more than a reunion—it was a chance to celebrate a film that challenged stereotypes, showcased Montana's spectacular landscapes, and continues to inspire audiences around the world. Revisiting Little Big Man after 53 years reminded everyone that great stories, remarkable places, and lifelong friendships never fade. They're simply waiting to be discovered by a new generation of travelers and film lovers. The wedding/birthday party at High Chaparral on the West Fork of the Stillwater River, Montana. UP NEXT: Gentle readers: few things escape the eye of the writer of this column. But Bruce William Keller's surprise proposal took my breath away and left me in a rare stunned silence. It happened during a clan reunion celebrating my birthday -- and will never be forgotten. I said "Yes," of course, actually, "I'd be delighted!" We've been together more than 16 years and are legal domestic partners in the state of California. But we'd not discussed tying the proverbial knot. So when he asked -- on bended knee -- I thought "why not?" His co-conspirators were our niece and nephew, Amarylla and Steve. He officiated at the ceremony, during the birthday tribute. Coming next. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Old San Juan's colorful Boricua is a pleasant place to stop for lunch, stroll the shops, enjoy the beach. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause for a photo. BEACHES, CASINOS, DINING, MUSEUMS, LANDMARKS, UPSCALE RESIDENTIAL AREAS, MUSEUMS, STREET FOOD, MUSIC: ALL IN A DAY IN LIVELY SAN JUAN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" SAN JUAN is a vibrant mix of stately buildings, towering trees, lively cafes, posh nightclubs, glitzy resorts, simple street food carts, plazas to people watch, museums, beach life and more. It's an enticing blend. A major port and tourist destination on Puerto Rico's northern coast, it is separated from the rest of the island by picturesque San Juan Bay and Condado Lagoon. Stately homes and gentrified offices can be found in parts of San Juan, which also has modern areas and resorts. The city was founded in 1508 by that globe trotting Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León and is the oldest city under U.S. jurisdiction. YOU'LL NEED a few days to get into the grove as San Juan seduces you. We suggest starting with a stroll or drive in El Viejo San Juan -- historic Old San Juan, which has several names, and is properly known as San Juan Antiguo. It is home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating from the 16th century. You'll want to visit a pair of the Caribbean's most famous fortresses, the San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. We enjoyed a climb on the old city walls for gorgeous views. If you like old stately churches, the Bautista Cathedral should be on your list of "must sees." It houses the tomb of Ponce de Leon in a neighborhood of brightly colored houses which line inviting cobbled streets. We stopped in a shady plaza for a cocktail in a small, colorful bar. After a rest in our hotel, we returned to Old San Juan to sample a couple of the city's renowned Caribbean fusion restaurants. Old San Juan offers a mix of stately architecture, plazas with benches and shade trees, and sculpture parks. IN OLD TOWN, as the sun slides into the horizon, you'll join older residents out for a stroll and young businessmen and women, relaxing after a day at the office. The Bacardi Rum Plant offers tours, tastings and more at an impressive complex. San Juan is an intriguing blend of Caribbean island charm and city hustle, a fine place to experience Puerto Rican culture if you have time for only a day's visit. The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to the tourist. We've visited several times and enjoy exploring the vibrant and distinctive neighborhoods-- from the old Spanish colonial buildings to state of the art restaurants and the same major shopping outlets one finds in Paris, New York or Milan. Visitors notice the bat in several buildings throughout San Juan. The mix of architecture spans the Colonial days to the modern era, with a mix of buildings reflecting the contributions of indigenous people. WE OPTED one day for a self-guided history lesson with a return visit to El Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century citadel that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stopped at the Bacardi Rum plant for a quick tour then headed for a cooling dip at Carolina Beach and Luquillo, which attract well heeled, deeply tanned Americans and Europeans. We had arranged to meet friends for a late dinner or we would have considered an after-dark kayak adventure through Bioluminescent Bay. Next time. The Caribe Hilton is a glitzy modern resort with all the amenities one could request. Locals perform in holiday garb at the Bacardi Arts Festival coming soon to Old San Juan. SAN JUAN celebrates Christmas beginning in early December. Holiday programs are specially designed for children, and presented at the Dominica Convent, La Fortaleza and City Hall. The Puerto Rico Symphony and National Folkloric Ballet of Puerto Rico give special performances and San Juan Ballet Company performs Tchaikovsky's "Nutcracker." Sports fans have plenty to watch, with Canadian teams playing with local teams throughout the island in the Puerto Rico Winter League. Boating enthusiasts enjoy the Puerto Rico International Offshore Cup in mid-December, and there are speedboat races with some of the best offshore teams competing. San Juan with its mix of old and new is a major port and tourist destination, known for its culture, nightlife, lively Old Town and beaches. FOR HOLIDAY shoppers, the Bacardi Arts Festival is held each year the first two Sundays of December. It features more than 100 booths, crafts, rides, typical food and of course drinks of rum. The festival happens at Bacardi's rum manufacturing plant, the world's largest. One doesn't have to go far to see Bacardi's influence. The logos and bottles are everywhere. Casa Bacardi offers tours and classes where you craft your own cocktails. OLD SAN JUAN lights up right after Thanksgiving, becoming a "White Christmas" with lights, decorations, holiday music and at booths in the windows and plazas. Tourists enjoy life-size nativity creches beginning on Thanksgiving weekend with the lighting of a giant Christmas tree in Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan. For information on hotels, tours and what's happening through the holidays: www.sanjuanpuertorico.com/visitors-information-tourism-offices/ For information on tours and tastingsbacardi.com From American favorites such as this rare steak and fresh veggies, to exotic international fare, we sample Thanksgiving on the road in next week's column. Please tune in. UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is right around the corner, Nov. 28. We've spent many Thanksgivings at various cities, villages and islands on the road, looking for fun and memorable ways to give thanks for a life of travel. We take readers to the Canary Islands, to Greece, Hong Kong and Barcelona for a look at specialty foods and taste treats for every budget. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com

More than a half century after its release, the Montana-made movie, "Little Big Man,"is still entertaining, stimulating conversation and encouraging consideration of the plight of indigenous people and the white man's role in that. Editor's note: As a young reporter, Christene Meyers covered the making of "Little Big Man" and was among panel participants discussing the Montana made movie. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' and courtesy Cinema Center Films Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated July 30, 2026 Chief Dan George portrayed Old Lodge Skins in "Little Big Man." Actor Dustin Hoffman with native American extras on location during the 1969 filming of "Little Big Man," here on the Earl and Toni Rosell Ranch near Billings, Montana. HOLLYWOOD came to Montana in 1969 to film a movie that would change the way the world views indigenous people. When it debuted during the holidays of 1970, "Little Big Man" generated a then impressive $31 million box office. It premiered in time to qualify for Oscar nominations the next spring. A recent seminar in Hardin, Montana, celebrated the movie's contribution to the humanities and the ways in which it portrayed native Americans as "human beings." DUSTIN HOFFMAN was a young looking 33 -- just three years after he rose to fame as Benjamin in "The Graduate," seduced by an older Mrs. Robinson, his parents' friend. Genius makeup artist Dick Smith created a 121-year old character in Dustin Hoffman's Jack Crabb. Through the make-up wizardry of Hollywood artist Dick Smith, Hoffman's character Jack Crabb appears first as a 121-year old man, relating the story of his remarkable life to a reporter. The character undergoes many transformations in both the white and native worlds, leading many lives, including as a scout for General George Armstrong Custer during the infamous Indian Wars. Crabb's life is as complex as any portrayed in the movies. Panelists discussed the impact of the film, and acting as extras. CROW AND Cheyenne men and women – elderly now -- were 53 years younger when they acted along side Hoffman. They portrayed members of Little Big Man's adopted Indian family and for the real-life families, the picture gave their lives an economic boost. Panelists at a three-day "Little Big Man" symposium in Hardin recalled that dozens of native people earned from $10 or $25 a day -- more if they had their own horse -- during the filming. The gathering, sponsored by Little Symposium organizer Tim Bernardis spent years studying "Little Big Man" and planning for the festival marking its 53rd anniversary. Big Horn College, celebrated Montana’s connection to the film. It was the brainchild of author and veteran Crow Cultural Center library director Tim Bernardis, lifelong film aficionado. He spent years studying the movie, based on a 1964 novel by Thomas Berger and directed by Oscar winner Arthur Penn. Bernardis dreamed of a symposium to spotlight its impact and secured a grant to make it happen. Planned for 2020, 50 years after the film’s 1970 debut, the seminar was derailed by COVID. Bernardis wasn’t about to let the project be lost. “It is too important; we kept the dream alive,” he said. THE GROUNDBREAKING film begins with Crabb recalling the killing of his parents on their way west, and his rescue by Indians. Crabb describes multiple incarnations in diverse worlds, including earning the name "Little Big Man" from his adopted grandfather, Old Lodge Skins. His A scene from the film, "Little Big Man," now 53 years old, with this battle scene shot on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site. Some of the actors spoke at the seminar. unique perspective and visits with his wise elder teach him the ways of the “human beings,” as Old Lodge Skins describes his people. Hoffman’s convincing acting continues to fascinate, 53 years after the film’s debut to critical acclaim. During three lively and varied days, three years after the COVID postponement, presenters considered a wide range of topics, from academic insights to emotional musings and humorous, touching impressions. Some gave Sidney "Chip" Fitzpatrick Jr acted as emcee at the fete. vivid back stories, examples of present-day racism, feeling that the culture is back-sliding in a sea of increasing bigotry. Symposium emcee Sidney Chip Fitzpatrick Jr., related a vivid example of recent racism experienced when an elderly white woman accosted his daughter with verbal slurs in a Billings store. “We still have a lot of work to do,” Fitzpatrick said, "to make certain that native Americans are regarded as human beings, not caricature drunks and other stereotypes.” Young beautifully dressed Indian girls delighted with their performances during the "LBM" symposium. AMONG THE TOPICS was an examination of Richard Mulligan's portrayal of George Armstrong Custer, the man whose “Last Stand” came on a grassy knoll near Hardin. The Little Bighorn battle scenes were filmed on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site, lending authenticity to the movie. Between presentations, seminar guests recalled the changing of the name Custer Battlefield to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in 1991. “It is important to recognize the indigenous perspective,” said one woman. “A very good thing.” Artists, historians, townsfolk and friends mingled to discuss the movie and its impact. DANCERS AND drummers entertained at lunch time in the school cafeteria, while guests and participants reminisced about the movie's beginnings. Director Penn read the book in 1966 and loved it. Billings mayor Willard Fraser got wind of the project and heard Arizona and Mexico were being considered as locations. He recruited arts advocate and rancher Earl Rosell to help sell Montana to Hollywood. Fraser called upon his Indian friends—Johnny Wooden Legs, Edison Real Bird, Henry Old Coyote, Susie Yellowtail and others -- and with Rosell, they "sold" the Montana location, making lobbying trips to Hollywood and Cinema Center Films on their own dime. Fraser biographer Lou Mandler Rene Rosell Yarborough and Christene "Cookie" Meyers" were panelists. Rosell is holding the sword her father used in a cameo scene. described Fraser’s courting of “Little Big Man” producer Stuart Millar. The persistent, Montana boosting mayor toured Millar and movie scouts around Montana, enumerating the advantages of shooting a motion picture about Indians in authentic Indian country. “The realism of the film would boost box office sales,” Fraser wrote. His lobbying proved effective and filming began on the Rosell ranch in summer of 1969. Rosell even scored a cameo as a soldier who spares Little Big Man when he realizes the Dustin Hoffman character is white, not Indian. Here are links to some of the most watched clips from the movie, featuring Dustin Hoffman as Jack Crabb and Richard Mulligan as a deranged, egocentric General Custer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kflV0EBLBWIhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hJ9igq1zZ8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WihjvhJawEohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpbq6nGbs50 The wedding/birthday party at High Chaparral on the West Fork of the Stillwater River, Montana. UP NEXT: Gentle readers: few things escape the eye of the writer of this column. But Bruce William Keller's surprise proposal took my breath away and left me in a rare stunned silence. It happened during a clan reunion celebrating my birthday -- and will never be forgotten. I said "Yes," of course, actually, "I'd be delighted!" We've been together more than 16 years and are legal domestic partners in the state of California. But we'd not discussed tying the proverbial knot. So when he asked -- on bended knee -- I thought "why not?" His co-conspirators were our niece and nephew, Amarylla and Steve. He officiated at the ceremony, during the birthday tribute. Coming next. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Each of the nearly 3,000 victims of the 9-11 terrorist attack is remembered with a rose on his or her birthday. The sound and sight of running water provide comfort and reminder to family, friends and visitors at the new Tower One memorial in New York's financial district. The new tower stands proudly where the Twin Towers were. RISING FROM THE ASHES, NEW TOWER REFLECTS AMERICA'S SPIRIT Bruce Keller pays his respects at the stone slab monuments in the 9/11 Memorial Glade. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THE HORRORS of September 11, 2001, will never vanish. But the beautiful new tower, sturdy stone slabs, soothing water and engraved names of victims help ease the pain of atrocities committed by terrorists on that sunny autumn day 20 years ago. We've twice visited the new One World Trade Center and are moved by the reverence people pay as they view the main building of the rebuilt World Trade Center complex in Lower Manhattan, New York City. One WTC is the tallest building in the United States, the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere, and the sixth-tallest in the world. Its 104 stories tower a symbolic 1,776 feet above sea level, providing a symbol of hope for U.S. citizens and people around the world. One World Trade Center celebrates America. It honors our country's endurance and spirit and is nicknamed 1WTC. For many it stands for the unwavering optimism of our country, which continues to look forward and dream big. The stone slab monuments, named the 9/11 Memorial Glade, recognize "the health impact of 9/11 that caused cancer, death and disabilities." Many have perished or are still suffering from contact with smoke and debris. Earlier visit recalled One World Trade Center stands a symbolic 1,776 feet high, representing American spirit. As a reminder of the horror: On a perfect autumn morning, September 11, 2001, members of the Islamic extremist group Al Qaeda coordinated four attacks using hijacked commercial airliners in the United States. Four planes crashed, killing scores of innocent people going about their normal lives. Family and friends of the martyred victims take photos or shoot film. First, the two iconic towers fell. The Pentagon sustained major damage from a third plane. A fourth plane went down in Pennsylvania, diverted by a heroic group of passengers. Nearly 3,000 victims lost their lives. Countless more suffered immediate injuries and long-term health issues. Memorials sprung up and lasted for months on the streets of New York. Visitors to the new monument also leave flowers and notes which are archived at the new museum. ON OUR SECOND visit a few weeks ago, we paid our respects in preparation for this week's solemn 20th anniversary of the attacks. We saw parents, children, spouses and friends gently touching the beautiful granite engravings, surrounded by flowing water. Many wiped tears. According to architect Michael Arad, the pools represent “absence made visible.” Although water flows into the voids, he said, "They can never be filled." The sound of the cascading water makes the pools a place of tranquility and contemplation separate from the bustling noises of the city. Names of the 2,983 people killed in the 2001 and 1993 terrorist attacks are inscribed on bronze parapets edging the pools. Nearby, the 9/11 Memorial Museum's permanent collection extends the moving experience. One sees an unsettling repository of material evidence, primary testimony, and historical records. Again, many people were weeping. THE 9/11 attacks changed America, and the world, forever. May we long remember. Consider CityPass, which gets you around in New York and many other venues including the rivers, at bargain prices: Click here to book CityPASS The Fox Theater may not look quite like it did in 1931, but the Billings, Montana, landmark is celebrating an expensive renovation. *******************************************UP NEXT: When the Fox Theater was built in 1931 in Billings, Montana, it was one of the last of the great art-deco Fox theaters built in the United States. It has undergone another transformation -- with more than $13 million behind the project. This weekend, lovers of live performance celebrate the remodeling and the building's 80th birthday with a grand, gala "reopening." Headlining the show is Broadway star Kristin Chenoweth, with a street party following. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com. Share the link.

Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers pose in hats with fans at a Balinese temple, before heading to Australia Some vacations are over too quickly. This one was was just right -- nearly a month on back-to-back Norwegian Sun cruises. After completing our first 12-day cruise from Singapore to Bali, we stayed aboard the lovely ship for the second leg of our adventure. We departed beautiful Bali and headed south toward Australia. It was the perfect way to continue exploring this fascinating part of the world without ever having to repack a suitcase. The Komodo dragon attacks his victim through ambush with a venomous bite, then tracks the wounded animal until it collapses from blood loss. Here, he is using his forked tongue to "taste" and smell the air which helps him find food. For two weeks, we visited remote Indonesian islands, photographed three Komodo dragons, explored tropical Australia and ended with five fun days in a favorite city, Brisbane. Another Wonderful Voyage on Norwegian Sun Returning to Norwegian Sun felt like coming home. Familiar crew greeted us, a favorite bartender remembered our drinks and new friends continued on the second sailing with us. The ship impressed with fine dining, a good mix of entertainment, relaxing sea days and the friendly atmosphere NCL has perfected. We enjoyed leisurely breakfasts on our veranda, top entertainment revues, a terrific Ukrainian pianist and gorgeous sunsets. Indoor market in Lombok features a colorful display of bright pink dragon fruit and melons. A Relaxing Day at Sea Our first full day was spent at sea, allowing everyone to unwind after departing Bali. Sea days are cruising's greatest luxury. With no alarm clock, no schedule to keep, no pressure to do anything except enjoy, we did just that. We exercised with a tai chi coach, participated in trivia, listened to a lecture, had a leisurely meal, relaxed on our balcony and admired the sea. Lombok, Indonesia Our first stop cruising Asia on our Bali to Brisbane odyssey was the beautiful island of Lombok, where we also enjoyed an overnight stay. The extra time allowed us to experience the island at a more relaxed pace, while a typical cruise stop is usually only for a day. A helpful concierge tapes the red markings on Christene Meyers' hiking shoes before a trek to see Komodo dragons. The animals are attracted to red, so black tape had to cover the shoe's red stripes. We discovered that Lombok is Bali's quieter neighbor with pristine beaches and landscapes, traditional villages and a slower pace Friendly people, spectacular fruit and lush scenery made it ideal for exploring beyond the port and appreciating Indonesia's natural beauty. Komodo National Park Then Komodo. For many of us, visiting Komodo National Park was the cruise highlight. We hiked to the famous Komodo dragons, largest living lizards on Earth. We spotted three on our trek -- one almost 10 feet long weighing more than 150 pounds. He flecked his frightening forked tongue to gasps from the group. This remarkable reptile exists on only a few Indonesian islands. Fewer than 4,000 remain in the wild, making our triple sighting special. Watching these ancient-looking animals move through their natural habitat was impressive. They're powerful, have a keen sense of smell and a confidence reminding us they have survived for millions of years. We had to tape the red on our shoes because they are attracted to the color. Cruising Asia Bali to Brisbane -- Two More Sea Days then Darwin Leaving Bali, we settled into shipboard life for two sea days as we sailed the 1,000 miles to Australia. Sea days are my favorite -- for reading, dining, evening theater and chats with fellow travelers from around the world. Fun to make new friends and plan to meet again. A hungry crocodile lunges from muddy water with his jaws wide open, showing teeth and his rough scales at Darwin Crocodile Farm. Darwin, Australia Our first Australian port was Darwin, the tropical capital of Australia's Northern Territory, famous for its wild saltwater crocodiles. Darwin and the surrounding "Top End" region of Australia have one of the world's largest populations of these fascinating and frightening creatures which have caused numerous human casualties. They live in harbors, beaches, estuaries and rivers and are often relocated by park rangers who carefully trap and band them. Darwin's history is shaped by its unique tropical location, by World War II action and its Indigenous culture. Our lively shore excursion introduced us to the city's pretty waterfront, beautiful parks and local attractions while offering a glimpse into life in Australia's far north. It's a relaxed culture with welcoming people and we viewed the "crocs" safely from a ramp. Cooktown, Australia Statue of Captain Cook in Cooktown stands among palm trees under a bright blue sky. Cooktown may be small, but its history is enormous. Captain James Cook famously brought HMS Endeavour ashore here in 1770 for repairs after striking the Great Barrier Reef. Today, Cooktown offers a peaceful blend of history, tropical scenery, and friendly locals who are proud to share their unique corner of Queensland. It felt like stepping back into an earlier chapter of Australian history. Cairns, Australia Cairns is known around the world as one of the primary gateways to the Great Barrier Reef. It's easy to understand why so many travelers fall in love with this tropical city. Palm-lined streets, waterfront parks, outdoor cafés and an easygoing atmosphere make Cairns an enjoyable destination even before we explored the famous reef. Friends snorkeled while we took a tour to an Aboriginal village to enjoy music and games. It's a gem of Australian cities. An Aboriginal man plays a long didgeridoo in a lush tropical setting at Rainforestation Nature Park in Kuranda northwest of Cairns. We experienced a wonderful traditional didgeridoo performance and boomerang Townsville, Australia Townsville offered another introduction to Queensland's relaxed coastal lifestyle. Smiling girl with a koala. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary near Brisbane offers close-up koala encounters Beautiful waterfront promenades, nearby Magnetic Island, and warm tropical weather made this a delightful stop before our final sea day. Everywhere we went, Australians welcomed us with genuine friendliness and an easy smile that made us feel like old friends. That -- and koalas -- are the charm of Australia. We enjoyed a tour to the Koala Park with close-up wildlife tours and interactions with the endearing koalas, wombats, and reptiles. One Final Day at Sea Our last sea day offered time to reflect on our memorable back-to-back cruise adventure. We'd visited multiple countries and cultures and traveled thousands of miles. On that last night, suitcases appeared outside cabin doors and conversations turned toward memories, trading contact information and planning the trip's next phase. Some were heading for the airport early the next day, but we had other ideas. Five Fun Days in Brisbane While the cruise ended in Brisbane, our adventure didn't. We recommend staying on at least a couple days, wherever your cruise ends. We planned five days in a favorite city, Brisbane, for its irresistible charm. We love Brisbane River's water taxi and South Bank's parks and restaurants. "Brizzy," as it's called by locals, has wonderful food tours, excellent walking and bike paths and an exciting but laid back vibe. It's a varied and beautiful city. Bribie Island Butterfly House near Brisbane, a city which offers culture, diversity and friendly people. It also provides a fine base for exploring the surrounding area and soaking up the Australian lifestyle before making the long flight home. Aussies are friendy, helpful people. They eagerl offer directions and tips and their wry sense of humor made our fifth Down Under trip enjoyable. Our back-to-back cruise on Norwegian Sun introduced us to fascinating cultures, breathtaking landscapes, remarkable wildlife and fun new friends. If you've dreamed of cruising Southeast Asia and Australia, put it on your wish list. Cruising offers multiple stops while unpacking only once. ******************************************************************************************** The Patiala Necklace was an ultra-luxurious Art Deco ceremonial necklace designed by Cartier in 1928. Commissioned by Bhupinder Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, it featured 2,930 diamonds, including the 234.65-carat yellow De Beers diamond as its centerpiece. It is considered one of the most extravagant jewelry pieces ever created and was proudly worn by the Maharaja at various royal events.

What Travel Taught Me About Creating Memorable Characters QEII lecturer, famed director Josh Logan gave tips on crafting believable characters STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Ask any novelist where a character comes from and you'll probably hear the same answer: "It's complicated." My characters certainly are. The people who inhabit Lilian's Last Dance didn't arrive all at once or introduce themselves in neat little packages. They wandered into my imagination over decades of travel, working in theater, meeting fascinating strangers, laughing with lifelong friends and quietly watching the world unfold. Every journey added another voice, another personality, another story waiting to be told. A poster for "Annie Get Your Gun,'' here featuring Reba McEntire. The musical helped inspire the creation of Lilian in "Lilian's Last Dance." CROSSING the Atlantic in the summer of 1986 on Queen Elizabeth II, I met famed Broadway producer and director Josh Logan, a guest lecturer. He was one of my idols, for I'd grown up with the music of "Annie Get Your Gun," and "South Pacific," both of which he directed. My late husband, Bruce Meyers, an accomplished actor and creative writing professor, encouraged me to approach Logan and express my interest in his legacy and his passion: musical theater. Writers Bill Jones and Cookie were characters in a seafaring "drama," crossing on the famed ocean liner, Queen Elizabeth 2. On an earlier QE2 crossing, crossing, Christene and Bruce Meyers interviewed brilliant Broadway director, Josh Logan, a hero of Cookie's. Famed Broadway director Josh Logan graciously took time to coach Christene Meyers during an Atlantic crossing on Queen Elizabeth 2. Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas made many Atlantic crossings, and are cameos in "Lilian's Last Dance." We studied their lives in visits to Paris. HE WAS GRACIOUS, and delighted to visit. Although he was elderly, and sometimes used a walker or wheelchair, he came alive when talking about theater. I took notes on his lively lectures and during several private conversations om that crossing. He died two years later, in 1988, leaving a legacy to the world -- and invaluable advice for this reporter! The iconic Eiffel Tower plays a small part in "Lilian...." too. LOGAN TOLD ME that research and "reinvention" are critical to making the characters come alive. "Know your characters' history, but make them your own," he said. Before "South Pacific" he studied James Michener's "Tales of the South Pacific," which inspired the musical. He also visited the islands many times. The Paris cabaret scene inspired us to envision what a show might have been like in Paris 100 years ago. Travel helped Create Characters for "Lilian's Last Dance" TAKING a cue from that inspiring week on the ocean with a genius Broadway great, the creation of "Lilian's Last Dance" took me on many journeys. Bruce and I, then Billy and I, and later Keller and I, traveled to Hawaii, England, France, Australia, Peru and many mainland North American states. The work survived both the death of Bruce and of my second husband, my "Lilian" collaborator, Bill Jones. Before he passed, in 2005, we filled notebooks with useful detail from which I drew, with Keller's help. WE'D COLLECTED maps, visited museums and read a dozen books about silent movies, vintage travel, art and World War I. (Part of the action unfolds on the Front.) We located Gertrude Stein's salon in Paris, at 27 rue de Fleures, where she, Alice Toklas and brother Leo entertained the literati. We loved people watching in the fabulous Musee d'Orsay, where several paintings from Steins' collection hang. We booked shows in the much photographed Moulin Rouge, studying both audience and performers. All helpful in making the characters come alive in believable settings. WE TRAMPED all over Paris -- from the Left Bank to Montmartre to the Jardin du Luxembourg, to the Tuileries Garden, all of which were frequented by Stein and her lover, muse and secretary. We set the scene for our character, Elfego Fuentes, to call on Stein, along with "real life" writers Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound. By chance, Billy and I met an elderly woman whose grandmother, an aspiring painter, was taken under Stein's generous wing. She provided marvelous detail. Our "Lilian's Last Dance" characters were inspired by a lifetime of observing remarkable people and places and studying notes and conversations. PAINTER ELFEGO, one of the novel's major characters, is a South American born artist whom the Stein character befriends in our story. So we booked an Amazon cruise to find a village where Elfego might have grown up. We flew to Quito, Peru, then cruised through the rain forests to Brazil. We were smudged by witch doctors and deep in the jungle located a village with structures built in the early 1900s. This would be Elfego's birth place! WE'RE EXCITED about early reviews for "Lilian's Last Dance." Here's one from historian and professor Elle Pieffe, of Rome, who liked the painter Elfego: "Lilian's daring, beautiful soul shines in the brush strokes of her Peruvian soul mate artist, in sizzling shots of a western gunfire duel, in silvery rain blessing Paris in winter. The mystery fades into a portrait of a person we'd love to have met.....and won't forget! You'll love this book, absolutely." Looking back now, I realize Lilian's Last Dance isn't simply about fictional people. It's a celebration of the countless individuals who left lasting impressions on my life. Every traveler carries home souvenirs, but writers bring home something even more valuable -- stories. I hope that as you meet the characters in Lilian's Last Dance, you'll recognize pieces of people you've known, places you've visited, and perhaps even a little of yourself. That's the magic of storytelling, and it's why every journey is worth taking. Paris and the Moulin Rouge attracted a return visit to Paris. The shows and people there inspired colorful Paris detail in the book. Famous Parisian gardens, avenues and night clubs make appearances in "Lilian." Find "Lilian's Last Dance" on Amazon e-books. COMING SOON: Hitting the road in Europe was part of the research for the revisiting and rewriting of "Lilian's Last Dance." But hitting the road in America provides fun, too. Next up, Julian, California, one of our favorite get-aways. We love the fine dining, restful settings, fun shopping, ice cream and delicious apples for the world's best pie. Remember: carpe diem, so explore, learn and live and visit us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com

Nick, left, and Nora, dry off after a swim in their "Auntie Robbie's" pool, in spring of 2006. They were born in fall, 2005. They have contributed enormous joy and delight to my life. Nora, left, and Nick, spent their first few years in Arizona. WRITER TRACES HER CANINE AFFECTION TO GENETICS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" (Some photos by ROBBIE COSGRIFFE TOWNSLEY) IT'S TIME TO admit I've led a doggedly delightful life. I came home as a newborn to a cocker spaniel and a pomeranian. My late sister Robbie brought the Yorkies to me so they are a link with a beloved sibling. I've had bassetts and bouviers, retrievers and labs, airedales, beagles, Saint Bernards, loveable rescue mutts and many kinds of terriers. In all my decades on the planet, I've never been dogless. My parents and grandparents were dog lovers and that is a genetic trait. Bo-Peep, a spirited cocker, was abandoned at a Kalispell tavern and rescued by a cousin. Blondie was a smart, sweet circus dog who jumped through hoops of fire. When the traveling circus disbanded, we took her in. Dad's favorite was a golden lab, named, not very creatively, Goldie, the pick of a litter from a rancher friend. My grandmother's chubby rescue mutt, Tiny, was anything but. He was a black lab mix with a heart-melting countenance and prodigious appetite. He was never "tiny" in my memory.... and he had a large personality. Love Affair with Yorkies includes Many Breeds, Several Mutts BRUCE THE FIRST aka, Bruce Kemp Meyers, and I acquired our first joint custody dog in 1968. Bruce and our dear friend Paul, both college professors at then Eastern Montana College, went fishing one day and came home with two Saint Bernards. I'm foggy about how Henry and Fred replaced rainbow trout but they were immediately adopted and loved. We took them on camping jaunts and road trips for several summers. Nick and Nora as puppies in Davis, California, where they were born. On a trip to Missoula in 1970 for the wedding of two friends, we took Henry and another friend, Roger, along in Bruce's new 8-cylinder Road Runner. My mother, Ellen Cosgriffe, with young Nora. The fellas sat in front in the bucket seats. Henry and I took the back seat. In Missoula, an adorable airedale met our car in the drive. No one knew where he belonged. He'd been hanging around for a week, our friends feeding him. But they planned to leave that Monday on honeymoon. "We'll drop him off at the shelter," said Lynn, delivering the sucker punch. We introduced him to Henry, named him Gandalf, tucked him in with Henry and me in the back seat and had him until 1986. He died peacefully while we were in Paris for a Jessye Norman concert on Bastille Day. Our neighbors, the Larsen family, conspired happily with my mother NOT to call us (we'd been gone only 2 days and he'd run two miles with me the morning we flew out of Billings. I got the news in New York the night before we flew to Billings in August of 1986.) Nick and Nora in Los Angeles at the Omni Hotel. Montana meander: Max, Smedley, Ruth and Eddie at High Chaparral. Cookie with Nick and Nora in San Francisco's Union Square. The pups have visited most major U.S. cities with their owners. Detour after Europe Brings Two New Dogs Home Nora, left, and Nick, travel with Cookie all over the U.S., here on a driving trip near Idyllwild, California. ON THE WAY home from the Billings airport, Bruce and I detoured to the animal shelter on Moore Lane. We couldn't be dogless, not even for a day. He chose Smedley, an endearing bouvier-sheepdog mix. I fell for Maxwell (who knows what mix he was). He was my friend for nearly two decades. Both these sweet dogs outlived Bruce, who passed in 1992. My love affair with Yorkies had earlier incarnations with other dogs. One was a four-dog "yours/mine/now ours" menagerie when William Jones and I began courting in 1994. His dogs, Ruth and Eddie, joined Max and Smedley and we six spent 10 happy summers in Montana, wintering in Bill's native Arizona. We bought twin Ford Explorers and Billy fashioned ramps for the old-timers' access. I HAVE LOVED each of my dogs, but none more than Nick and Nora. Why? Because they saved my life, gave me purpose, direction, affection. Cookie and Keller, Nick and Nora in their beloved Montana. After Billy died in November of 2005, my sister Robbie flew in to Phoenix and spirited me away to Davis, Calif., where she was head of childcare services for Yolo County. While we were waiting for Billy's ashes, she received an in-house email. Two Yorkies were available. Ironic, because Bill's last living act during our Arizona hospice time was to wheel his IV into the office and print out the profile for Yorkshire terrier. We had lost all four of our dogs in the last four months. Smedley the bouvier-sheepdog, lived to be 16. Eddie, the basset hound, made 17. Ruthie, the retriever, made 18 and that was after surviving a rattlesnake bite which blinded her in one eye. Maxwell, a rescue mutt, lived to be 19. Each dog brought something rich into my life. I can't imagine being dogless, but that time may come. I'm sure it won't be long, though, before I travel to the closest animal shelter and find another friend. Karen Jackson's roles were always memorable. She spent more than 40 years in show business, making us laugh and delivering ballads that touched the soul. UP NEXT: We celebrate the life of a fabulous singer, actor, comic and dear friend, Karen Jackson, of Billings, Montana. In a nostalgic tribute, whereiscookie.com looks at her 40 years in show business and considers the gifts she shared with legions of fans and fellow actors and singers. We pay homage to her gifts and honor the Jan. 18 celebration of her life, while previewing the new theater season in San Diego. It's one which Karen would have enjoyed and applauded -- and likely scored a few leading roles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh take on travel, family, nature, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com