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SeaWorld's new Orca Encounter is a more politically correct production which still captures the beauty, grace and power of the magnificent whale. Orcas exist in all the world's oceans. Media weekend Orca shows featuredseaworthy pastries in ocean motifs. ORCAS LEAP, LUNGE, SPLASH AND CAVORT, THRILLING CROWDS IN NEW SEAWORLD ENCOUNTER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller give "flippers up" to SeaWorld's new entertaining orca show. Orcas still show off for the SeaWorld audience, but no longer do trainers swim on or with them.  And the breeding program has been curtailed. WE LOVED  the old orca show at SeaWorld.  Keller grew up with it, took his kids there and retains cherished memories of the mighty orcas. So when it was announced that a more politically correct orca show would evolve, we wondered: Could it manage to entertain the way the old orca shows did? Would we still thrill at the orcas' strength and grace? Would people still get soaked in the close-up seats? The major change in the new program is that trainers no longer swim with the orcas.  But they still interact and touch and play with the orcas.  And, yes, people in the splash zone still get mighty wet, as the animals splash their mighty tails to the delight of the audience. In the wild, this orca's mighty tail might be used to catch a seal off-guard and dislodge him from his rock. SHAMU STADIUM'S stage has been transformed into a captivating Pacific Northwest theme featuring natural rock work, huge faux trees and gorgeous man-made waterfalls surrounding a 138-foot-wide screen. The impressive, three-story, first-in-the-world high-definition "infinity screen" forms a changing backdrop for the show, accompanying educational commentary about the orcas. They exist in all the world's oceans, and the digital imagery ranges from Arctic ice to tropical waters, as in "real life" the orcas swim, leap and lunge in the 1.7-million gallon tank. We saw the opening weekend in the 5,500-seat Shamu stadium. Animal behaviorists still interact with the whales and provide the commentary, with the screen's enlarged human images entertaining us as performance in the water below continues. SeaWorld's well cared for orcas will no longer breed, but will entertain. The combination of live presentation with the digital backdrop is engaging and SeaWorld's well written script exhibits its 50-year experience with and knowledge of the orca.   SeaWorld's popular, internationally known orca show is enhanced by a new "encounter" which showcases the orcas against a stunning backdrop.  The goal is "to immerse our guests in the mysterious world of the killer whale, which most people would never get to experience,” says Brian Morrow, SeaWorld’s vice president of theme park experience and design. The show has been developed for more than a year, using the talent and knowledge of orca behaviorists, engineers, researchers and writers. WE ENJOYED  watching SeaWorld orcas breach and show off against the massive infinity screen. "We're hoping to help create an even deeper connection to the orcas,” says SeaWorld San Diego orca behaviorist, Kristi Burtis.  Visitors also hear how scientific research on killer whales at SeaWorld is benefiting wild orcas. SeaWorld's orcas are meticulously cared for and SeaWorld's exemplary program rescues, rehabilitates and returns many creatures to the wild. The SeaWorld orcas are in tip-top shape, pampered and loved and given medical care and special diets depending on their needs. Like any zoo or animal sanctuary, SeaWorld's orcas spark controversy. Our thinking is that because of the exemplary care given the critters -- and the fact that other whales are still hunted -- this might be the only chance many will ever get to see such a magnificent creature up close. www.seaworldentertainment.com Off next to San Francisco's Exploratorium where we spend a delightful day! NEXT UP: San Francisco's Exploratorium explores the world through science, art, and human perception. Its mission is to create inquiry-based experiences that transform learning -- in unique and imaginative ways.  We spent the day recently and had a ball with our Bay Area niece and her lively and curious family. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique spin on nature, the arts and travel.

Editor's Note:   Three weeks ago, we described our journey up the transplant list at Scripps Center for Organ and Cell Transplantation, a world renowned facility luckily 10 minutes from our San Diego home.  We detailed the 19-month process leading to the midnight call that a donor had been found. Now -- four weeks from the May 13 surgery -- we continue the complex story of recovery with a look at the "ups and downs" and the caregiver's essential role. From left, writer Rick Cosgriffe, Cookie's brother, with Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers at a play. One of the important steps in recovery is returning to routine. SURFER VOWS TO CATCH A WAVE SOON, ENCOURAGES RESPECT FOR CAREGIVER   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHAT WE LEARNED during the wait for a donor is too much for a single article. Friends have suggested a book, and through this blog, we've had an offer from a publisher! What we're learning during recovery is even more complicated. Cookie, Nick and Nora, at the beach.  Keller's and Cookie's routines include the ocean and theater, and exercise continues to be critical. Salient points include: * There will be moments of exhilaration and release, as well as moments of despair and frustration. All normal, textbook reactions to the trauma of transplant. * Moods will swing -- both of the recipient and the caregiver. Fatigue and exhaustion play into this; be kind to one another. * As our dear and brilliant hepatology doctor Catherine Frenette says, "There is no road map. Each case differs. Things will go off the track. * Achieving a balance between the anti-rejection drugs and the immune system is tricky. The drugs compromise the immune system. We had a broken tooth and other dental complications, so we have had to deal with infection and visits to two oral surgeons. We have more surgery next week -- and the transplant doctors and oral surgeons must collaborate on the right antibiotics and anesthesia. * Return as much as possible to "favorite things" and routines.  This includes for us, weekly plays and concerts and daily trips to the beach for exercise and rejuvenation. It's too soon for the surfer to return to his board, but in one more month, Keller's surgeons have given him thumbs up to return to his daily bicycle rides. Soon he can drive again.  FAMILY HAS meant everything to me, and having my siblings here has been a godsend. Reflexology treatments, acu-pressure and reiki healing were my sister Olivia's gifts to Keller. Brother Rick and Keller went running and biking. Sister Kelly Misha continues the massages and walking time with Keller.  Family also provides good humor, company and a spell-off for the caregiver. I am a patient, roll-with-the-punches kind of girl.  Through the illness and loss of two husbands and two sisters, parents, grandparents and dear friends, I've learned that life is a gift and each day precious.  I've also learned the insides of ICUs and operating theaters, and I've seen as many videos on surgery as some medical students. NOTHING, HOWEVER,  prepares  a person for the unexpected.  Who knew a tooth would break, and that the dental implants of two years ago would cause trouble.  But the tricky balance of anti-rejection drugs and immune system are carefully monitored and adjusted. A Father's Day party is planned next week, with longtime friend, Jesus Soriano, as a farewell to another longtime friend, Carlos Montero, who is returning to Ecuador.  Jambalaya, gumbo and curry were all cravings for Keller during his first month of recovery. Good thing Cookie knows how to cook! A return to "normal" life for the two included a media day invite to SeaWorld, and sea-inspired donuts to toast the 3-week mark. And as Dr. Frenette predicted, unexpected problems arise with each person; each transplant patient has his or her version of road bumps. Deal with it -- and we did and are. WE WERE  lucky because we were 19 months from diagnosis, to being officially listed,  to the transplant itself. Some people are on the list five years. We are forever grateful to the family who donated their loved one's organ. Through the continuing travail, these tips helped us. * Keep focused. Maintain priorities. Don't sweat the small stuff. Who cares if you don't get the dishwasher unloaded before you fall into bed exhausted. Even in our pre-transplant time,  we hired a housekeeper and she's a joy and a boon. We love our Yolanda. * Let people help you.  Chances are your folks will be eager to lend a hand.  Let them!  My family stepped up to the plate with generous gifts of time, talent and optimism.  Neighbors and friends have fed the Yorkies, walked them, looked in on the house, offered a meal or a trip to the grocery. Nick and Nora above La Jolla Shores. * Take time. The care giver's journey is a taxing one. I kept up my writing assignments and Jazzercise six days a week. It's essential to my mental health and my own well being. Cookie "suits up" for her beloved Jazzercise * Animal World. We love our Yorkies.  Nick and Nora are part of the healing.  Nicky sleeps with Keller during his naps and Nora stays close to Cookie. They're a comfort and a joy, an essential part of the healing. * Above all, keep it "normal" as possible. Roll with the punches -- and there have been a couple to the gut, including a nasty fall for "Nurse Kick-Ass," who reminds herself to slow down and stay in the moment. Nick, Nora and Keller mark one month out from the transplant, at Torrey Pines Beach. The massive incision is healing, the meds are balanced, and while doctoring is a huge part of our present world, we take time to be together at the beach, for exercise and at the theater. We continued our Friday date nights right up to  the call which came on a Friday. We missed only two weekends of play openings.  We're back on track with that and we've kept our senses of humor. Even when we our travel was shortened to 3-hours away from Scripps, we found new fun places to go nearby. As for "Patient Patient," he says, "My future's so bright, I have to wear shades!" NEXT UP : As we've stuck closer to home these past months, awaiting the transplant, we've rediscovered what we've known for years -- that California offers a world of engaging diversions. Outside our window, a family of kites have been hypnotizing us with the nesting.  Two fabulous productions have entertained us -- "Damn Yankees" by San Diego Musical Theatre at Spreckles, and "The Spitfire Grill" at NorthCoast Rep in Solana Beach. What a time for theater in our lives -- at the clinic, on the boards and out our window. We're remembering to explore, learn and live and hope you'll consider organ donation -- a gift which changed our life.

Bruce William Keller and Christene Cosgriffe Meyers, with Yorkies Nick and Nora, put their beloved Montana on hold for this year, as they awaited a donor for his liver transplant.  "The call" came days ago and the surgery was successful. They might make Montana by fall.  SUCCESSFUL LIVER TRANSPLANT COMES AFTER 18-MONTH WAIT; JOURNEY OF RECOVERY BEGINS  Keller broke records at Scripps, leaving the ICU in a single day and the hospital in three days after intricate surgery. Transplant complete, long follow-up begins:  Keller and Cookie are still Scripps regulars. (This begins a two-part report on the journey to and through  liver transplantation. Please join us next week for the second segment, as our successful story unfolds.) STORY AND PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS A WEEK AGO , we savored our traditional Friday Date Night -- a drive along the coast, then appetizers at La Jolla Shores here in sunny southern California.  Sauvignon blanc for me; non-alcoholic beverage for Keller. We toasted and wished for the transplant: "May it be soon." We clinked glasses. A discreet kiss. Three top transplantation surgeons assisted in the surgery.  At left, a pleased  Dr. Randolph Schaffer follows up with Keller days after the operation.  It was a lovely date night -- we always dress up -- and we strolled the beach for sunset, then returned home for "Jeopardy." The ritual unfolded in normal fashion -- supper for the Yorkies, a walk for the four of us, chats with neighbors then "Hawaii Five-O." (Cookie watched the original Jack Lord 1970s classic with her beloved gran, and the newer version is part of the Friday rites.)  NICK AND NORA, Keller and Cookie were tucking in, yielding to the arms of Morpheus, when "The Call" came. Scripps Green Hospital is among the nation's finest.  Its staff of doctors represents the nation's finest medical schools, including Columbia, Baylor, Harvard, Duke, Johns Hopkins, University of California San Francisco, etc. A member of Scripps Green Hospital's crack transplant team advised that a potential donor had been found.   He promised to call again in an hour to set an arrival time, if the donor liver looked favorable. This first call was to alert us to stand by. Cookie and Keller travel internationally several times a year, here at the Pyramids in Egypt. That will resume! LONG-AGO, in college, he contracted the  Hepatitis C virus, perhaps during treatment for a sports injury. Although dormant for years, it had badly damaged Keller's liver. While miracle drug, Harvoni, leveled the virus, alas, the damage remained. We knew we were climbing up the liver transplant list at Scripps, where 19 months ago, we began the circuitous journey of tests, evaluations, scans, probes, blood work, MRIs, conferences and dozens of visits, all part of a meticulous plan toward eventually receiving transplantation and regaining a normal, healthy life. That he would have a competent, healthy care-giver was of prime importance. I, too, was vetted and passed my tests! Cookie and Keller love to dance and will soon be back.    IN LESS THAN  two hours from that first call, we were at Scripps -- admitted at midnight through a locked front door by a security officer who whisked us to the "prep room."    We knew we were not the only ones called.  More than a single potential recipient's family is alerted to be sure that a proper match is made and the generous gift not wasted.  All are "prepped" while the best match is determined.  Many factors play into the decision, including blood type and size. (A petite Asian woman, for instance, would not be a good match with a linebacker.)   Many recipients endure multiple preps -- four and five are not uncommon. One family was prepped 13 times.  Keller's last birthday was a cause for celebration in Vancouver. This next birthday may find us in Montana and he  plans to walk his only daughter, Kristen,  down the aisle in September of 2018. Sunset over La Jolla Shores is a Friday tradition for Cookie and Keller.  This photo was taken the evening we got "the call." BY NOW it was 1 p.m. The prepping was done. We'd completed many forms. Labs were taken, medical directives filed. We met with surgeon Dr. Jonathan Fisher, and one of the pair of anesthesiologists. Both told us what to expect. We were prepared to rock and roll.  Once we'd wrapped our heads around the fact that we needed the transplant, we were ready. Without a transplant, liver disease patients usually don't live past five years. Date night became transplant night, as Cookie and Keller stepped into the unknown. "We should know by 2 p.m.," surgeon Michelle Ganyo assured us.  She rushed in an hour later, waving her cell phone, and hollered "It's a go." We were elated. A quick kiss -- not good-bye -- but "see you soon." Misty eyes. The surgical team was assembled. Keller was quickly dispatched to dreamland and the arms of Morpheus which eluded us six hours earlier. For Cookie, a lonely night in the waiting room began. NEXT UP :  The  passing this week of Cookie's favorite James Bond, Roger Moore, prompts a reminiscence of a whirlwind five-day trip to London in 1977 for the premiere of "The Spy Who Loved Me" in London's Roger Moore: remembered from a 1977 interview as witty, handsome, self-deprecating and utterly charming. Odeon Square.  The date was 7-7-77 and  Cookie was one of five film reviewers invited by United Artists' Cubby Broccoli to privately interview Moore. She was also among three dozen U.S. travel writers invited to receptions for Queen Elizabeth II's silver jubilee, during which she met the Queen Mum and Princess Anne (but not the Queen, although she had practiced her curtsy to perfection!) Remember to laugh, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts and health. We'll update you on the transplant progress next time!

Cesar Manrique's beautiful concert hall was created in a volcanic cave.  The native son's vision transformed his beloved island of Lanzarote in Spain's Canary Islands. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Lanzarote's unique volcanic architecture inspired Cesar Manrique. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   One of the longest volcanic tunnels in the world, the Cueva de Los Verdes  has been  protecting locals on   Lanzarote for centurie s.  It opened to the public in 1964 and may be toured.  At picture's far right, Cookie aims her camera. THE BRILLIANCE  of a single man is responsible for the unique artistic look of the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Cesar Manrique was born nearly 100 years ago, in 1919, served in the Spanish Civil War, and took a trip to New York in the early 1960s that changed his life. Searching for "the real meaning of things," he found New York a place to indulge his artistic flights of fancy. He returned to Spain after a couple fertile years, lured to the U.S. by his cousin, Manuel Manrique, a New York psychoanalyst and writer.  New York's artists, journalists, writers, and bohemians made an impact. So did the crowds, which he compared to rats and detested.  "Man was not created for this artificiality," he wrote. "We have an imperative need to return to the soil, to feel it, smell it." A TRUE  visionary and by far Lanzarote's most famous citizen, Manrique was a painter, architect, interior designer, gardener, sculptor, activist and environmentalist. His imprint on his beloved birthplace is universally acknowledged.  Our excellent Viator guide became teary-eyed describing his 1992 death -- ironically in an auto accident (he eschewed the increasing number of cars on his island).  He was 73. His home is now a fascinating foundation in his name, and may be toured by the public.   LIKE EVERYTHING Manrique created, it makes brilliant use of the natural world. Built in 1968 on top of a trail from a 1730 volcanic eruption, the home incorporates volcanic bubbles into a unique living space. Cesar Manrique -- visionary, Renaissance man -- who transformed Lanzarote into the Canary Islands' most unique and interesting of the group. Cesar Manrique's home, above, is nestled near huge   aloe vera fields and incorporates Lanzarote's  volcanoes. The exterior is inspired by traditional Lanzarote architecture and the home incorporates the elements Manrique deemed essential for a well rounded life: conservation and study, artistic activity and cultural reflection. He also believed in respecting the natural environment and integrating it as artfully as possible into living space. His imagination was fueled and his vision shaped during his U.S. stay by both the artists he met and the crowds and congestion he avoided. 'WHEN I  returned from New York, I came with the intention of turning my native island into one of the more beautiful places in the planet, due to the endless possibilities that Lanzarote had to offer," he wrote. Bruce Keller relaxes on a  Lanzarote volcanic rock chair.  This vision came true. It is impossible to imagine today's Lanzarote without Manrique. We paid homage to this brilliant man one full day's tour of his beautiful island. The Lagomar Bar, Restaurant and Museum is a popular place to watch Lanzarote's ocean, birdlife and sunsets.   In the ancient capital of Villa de Teguise, we strolled charming churches  and  impressive monuments, then headed to spectacular island views from the Lagomar Museum and Bar. We explored another prime vantage point -- Peñas del Chach -- and visited an aloe vera plantation.  At Jameos del Agua with its unique volcanic tunnel and caverns, we sat in on the end of a string trio's sound test in an inspiring underground concert hall designed by Manrique. It was a stunning experience and we hoped that the island's own maestro was listening. viator.com/tours/Lanzarote Cookie makes use of the aloe's healing juice,  applying small cubes to her hands and face.   Welk Resort Theatre in northeast San Diego County, opens "The Music Man" tonight, for a long run through July 23. -- photo by Ken Jacques UP NEXT : "The Music Man" is one of America's classic musicals and a favorite of Cookie's and Keller's.  Cookie was a young girl when she first saw the captivating story of a con man posing as a band leader. It swept her away -- along with Marian the Librarian, whom Harold Hill romances and finds himself changed. We attend the opening of this classic at Welk Resort Theatre. Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. And catch us each weekend for a novel approach to the arts and nature-driven travel.

The countryside around Julian, California, offers fine hiking, fun places to stay, bird watching -- and a peaceful get-away.    Lilacs bloom and welcome to verdant   countryside and Julian hospitality. ART, MUSIC,  FUN PLACES TO STAY, SHOPPING, BIRDS, FLOWERS, APPLE PIE AND A FINE ITALIAN RESTAURANT   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Spring flowers lead the way to a lovely late April and a pleasant May. A VISIT TO  Julian, California, is a journey back in time to a more innocent, leisurely day. People still say "hello" and strangers with a map might find themselves guided to their destination -- "why it's just up the street and around the corner. I'll take you. I'm going that way." Lake Cuyamaca Lodge is lovingly run by a husband-wife team who take pleasure in providing scenery, comfort and individual attention. My California squeeze and fellow traveler was born in San Diego and spent childhood time in Julian with his family, thus his fond memories. Whispering Pines offers hospitality, privacy, attentive service and a tranquil, rejuvenating retreat from the world's cares. After a decade of visiting in spring and autumn, I'm gathering my own memories, too. Bruce Keller and Christene (Cookie) Meyers, kick back  at Romano's in Julian, a family-run enterprise with fine fare. If you stop by Lake Cuyamaca Restaurant for a meal, you may  be lucky to catch David Dobler. WE VISIT  the bed and breakfasts and air bnb offerings, and there are plenty from which to choose here in this little mountain town about 90 minutes from the city.  San Diegans come for a weekend respite of peace and quiet in a natural setting. This spring, we admired a glorious patch of yellow and purples -- the first of the iris, the last of the daffodils, lupin and lilacs. Julian is also famous for its apples and the hills and valleys were a cloud of ivory and pink. It's a splendid sight for this Montana kid, missing spring under the comforting cloak of the Big Sky. You feel your blood pressure dropping on the pretty drive northeast from San Diego. WE STAYED  this time in a charming cottage in Whispering Pines Retreat. We heard bird song -- finches, jays and red-winged blackbirds as I wrote -- enjoying a "cuppa" in a quaintly furnished cabin, while fixing supper and relishing the solitude. The Yorkies snoozed at my feet and all was right with the world -- for a few precious Julian hours. The once historic gold mining town segued to a welcoming mountain village famous for apple pies, wine, ice cream, hiking and biking trails. We always dine one night at a great family run Italian bistro called Romano's. Julian is also famous for its festivals and holiday decorations and it always feels like a holiday at Romano's.   THE APPLE CAPITAL  of the world offers a get-away both soothing and exciting. There's plenty to do besides the famous fall apple fest. Think history.  The town was founded just after the Civil War, and is nestled among oak and pine forests as old as Robert E. Lee. Surrounding the town are the The view from Lake Cuyamaca Lodge is stellar and peaceful .  Cuyamaca Range and the south slope of Volcan Mountain. We followed the road to Lake Cuyamaca for a night, for a delightful stay at Lake Cuyamaca Lodge and a fine meal with live music at nearby Lake Cuyamaca Restaurant. The place is famous for home cooking -- tasty American meals served in a rustic room with lake views. A tackle shop adjoins and it's your last chance for the famous Julian apple pie. Live music may be on tap on weekends. Check to see if the gifted David Dobler is playing. JULIAN'S EAGLE   and High Peak Gold Mine lets you step back in time into a real gold mine dug out of a mountain with picks and your own pan. In many ways, the gold  mine Julian has an annual October Apple Festival, celebrating the fruit that keeps people coming back.  is a metaphor for Julian itself -- a throw-back to the late 1800s.  Remove the autos and modern dress and imagine your great-grandparents strolling the streets of Julian.    Dogs are welcome, too, for us an essential. Julian makes tourists welcome and summer finds life centered around the outdoors. The whole township of Julian is a Designated Historical District. Its image as an early California frontier town with pioneer store fronts, historic sites and guided tours of the mines explains its continuing modern appeal. We also heartily recommend Pheasant Hill Cabin and Julian Lodge, both popular and often booked. Tourism is Julian's largest industry. Enjoy yourselves. We always do. A grey whale cow and her young calf are observed off the waters of San Diego in a thrilling day on the ocean. UP NEXT:     Nothing compares to the thrill for this pair of whale watching photographers and writers as observing a mother grey whale and her months-old baby, heading back from the Baja to Alaska for the season.  We delighted in a long look at these wondrous creatures this week with San Diego Whale Watch and its savvy naturalist and boat captain. We'll share the magic in the next  whereiscookie . Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel approach to the arts and nature driven travel.

Believer or not, it's easy to be moved by the religious history of the splendid city of Jerusalem. Here, Cookie pauses enroute to the Church of the Holy Seprelcre to see the now complete and laborious restoration of the tomb of Jesus. ANCIENT SACRED SITE GETS MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR FACELIFT TO USHER IN HOLY DAYS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Associated Press JUST IN TIME  for Passover and Easter, a crack Greek restoration team unveiled an elaborate, high-tech renovation of the Jerusalem shrine housing the tomb where tradition says Jesus was   buried and rose. Restoration complete, the church's famous tomb shines with new luster. Above left, the church may be approached through a colorful covered bazaar.  The archaeologists, known for restoration work on historic Egyptian and Turkish sites, were laying the groundwork for the repairs on our last visit. The project has been on the boards since 1959. The shrine needed urgent attention after years of exposure to moisture, humidity and candle smoke. We spent two spring days in the city, known for its shrines, mosques and temples and the relics of a trio of major religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. THE TOMB IS  known as the Edicule, and rests within the Old City of Jerusalem in the Church of the Holy Seplulchre Cookie lights a candle near the tomb, honoring her departed. Above, the tomb shortly before our last visit. What struck us was that until recently, the tomb was so dingy and blackened. When next we visit, we are excited to witness the results of the painstaking transformation. The original ivory sheen of the marble has emerged -- the tomb is no longer dark and dingy but looks much as it did centuries ago. 21ST CENTURY techniques -- including radar and thermography -- were used to examine the tomb's supporting structure tomb and ground beneath. The experts, from the National Technical University of Athens, stripped the stone slabs from the shrine’s façade and patched internal masonry, injecting it with grout for reinforcement. Each stone was wiped clean of candle soot and pigeon droppings, then put back in place. Titanium bolts were added for reinforcement, and the shrine's frescos and painted dome were given a facelift. Above and below left, painstaking removal of grime restored each stone slab. Additional work is necessary to better stabilize the ground. The Greek conservators will be part of that effort, too, after it is approved by those who inhabit and use the church. It is still an active shrine -- and home to 50 monks, who insist that it be kept open for pilgrims.  Since the fourth Century AD, the church has been a cemetery. Romans had built a temple there to honor Aphrodite and for centuries it was also a quarry. NOW GONE IS THE unsightly iron cage built around the shrine by British authorities in 1947 to shore up the walls. Gone are layers of soot from decades of pilgrims' candles. Vastly improved is the stability of the old shrine, which hadn’t been restored in more than 200 years. “If this repair hadn’t happened now, there could have been a collapse,” Bonnie Burnham of the World Monuments Fund said this week. “This is a complete transformation of the monument.” A PRIVATE DONATION provided an initial $1.4 million for the $4 million restoration. That gift came from the widow of Atlantic Records founder. Jordan’s King Abdullah II and Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas each chipped in 150,000 euros -- totaling $320,000. Church donations and other private gifts raised the rest. The limestone and marble Church of the Holy Sepulcher is among the world’s oldest churches — a 12th-century building on 4th-century remains. Three main Christian denominations jealously guard separate sections of the church, but put aside longstanding religious rivalries to approve the restoration. In 2015, Israeli police briefly shut down the building after Israel’s Antiquities Authority deemed it unsafe. Repairs finally began in earnest in June 2016. UP NEXT: Julian, California, in the spring is a gorgeous bounty of blooms and fragrance. Come with us to visit this charming mountain town not far from San Diego. From homemade apple pie to art,  ice cream to friendly inns and B&Bs, Julian is a quaint, appealing town. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend.   Right, daffodils are protected in Julian, California, where it is illegal to pick them. The town is famous for apples as well.

Bryant Hernandez, Kenia Ramirez and Jennifer Paredes are modern-day muskateers in "Into the Beautiful North," at San Diego Repertory Theatre.  The play's quest is inspired by the films "The Magnificent Seven" and "Seven Samurai."  The Lyceum in Horton Plaza is home to San Diego Repertory Theatre where a provocative new play just opened. From left, David McBean, Richard Baird, Benjamin Cole and James Saba  playing multiple roles in NorthCoast Rep's "Travels with My Aunt."  NorthCoast Repertory Theatre offers quality work in a  small space with David Ellenstein's able artistic direction. LOVE, AGING, POLITICS, TRAVEL THEMES, SNAPPY MUSICALS DRESS THE STAGE IN LIVELY SAN DIEGO STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER, KEN JACQUES  and courtesy theater marketing departments WE ARE BINGING  on an orgy of fabulous San Diego theater. The cause of our bacchanal is a feast of fine productions -- three this week and three next. Sean Murray, center, both directs and stars in "On the Twentieth Century" at Cygnet Theatre in Old Town. Murray's versatility has won him leading roles in "Man of LaMancha," "Sweeney Todd" and "Little Shop of Horrors."  From cutting edge drama set in our own southern California, to time honored chestnuts that still bring the house down, to fresh new comedy with an edge and original musicals, San Diego delivers. No other mid-sized city has birthed as many Broadway bound works -- "Memphis," "Billy Crystal's 700 Sundays," "Dracula, the Musical," "Jersey Boys," "The Who's Tommy," and more. AS DEVOTEES of the boards, we're celebrating -- drinking it all in, if you will. We love our treks to Los Angeles -- to the Ahmanson and Mark Taper. Our Broadway forays in New York City are a favorite tradition. But San Diego is not only a city of eternal sunshine -- it offers quality theater year round. We see more than 100 plays a year -- at least a play a week. There's always a new production, and this column deals strictly with theater. Add to the mix world class dance, symphony, opera and comedy. Sam Woodhouse directs an entertaining, often touching new play with San Diego connections at SD Repertory Theatre.    THIS MONTH , we are experiencing a rousing bounty of delights. Here's a selection of "can't miss" entrees from our theatrical feast: Cygnet Theatre's variety is enhanced by Sean Murray's able artistic direction and a charming Old Town space. *  SAN DIEGO REPERTORY THEATRE: At once funny and touching, "Into the Beautiful North" takes a fresh look at the immigrant story.  Three Mexican friends decide to enter the U.S.   in search of strong men who will rid their besieged village of drug bandidos. Luis Alberto Urrea wrote the novel from which Karen Zacarias adapted her finely tuned drama. Fine actors, beautifully cast and directed by Sam Woodhouse tell this engaging contemporary tale following the director's keen insight into what makes characters act, react, form loyalties and follow their passions. Through April 23. sdrep.org * CYGNET THEATRE:  "On the Twentieth Century." Cygnet's production of this gem is energetic and fun, an old-fashioned musical with fabulous performances, set on a train bound from Chicago to New York. Clever use is made of Cygnet's stage and space, with a delightful backdrop, inventive design and fun movie footage into which the "Twentieth Century" characters are cleverly dropped. As the hijinks unfold, we enjoy snappy choreography, perfect period costumes and gorgeous wigs as the train speeds toward its destination with a Bible toting proselytizer and plenty of goofy doings afoot. La Jolla Playhouse is gearing up for a Jimmy Buffett musical.  Sean Murray and Eileen Bowman in leading roles are hysterical as the one-time lovers. Flawless supporting players dance delightfully in and out. The entire cast is gangbusters -- the cream of the crop of Cygnet regulars. A vintage homage to the theatrical days of yore. Through April 30.  cygnettheatre.com Singing and dancing their way through a blind date and beyond, a cleverly staged meeting unfolds in "First Date" by San Diego Musical Theatre. * NORTHCOAST REPERTORY THEATRE: Travels with My Aunt." Giles Havergal adapted the Graham Greene novel about eccentric Aunt Augusta who swoops in to shake up the life of her staid bourgeois banker nephew.  Four actors play 20 roles in the journey with the Rep's imaginative artistic director David Ellenstein at the helm.  The plot involves CIA agents, Nazi collaborators, a Turkish general and a sojourn to Paraguay. Watch for our reaction soon. April 12 through May 7. northcoastrep.org *SAN DIEGO MUSICAL THEATRE: "First Date"   at Horton Grand Theatre is an energetic regional premiere, an inventively staged contemporary musical comedy.  The clever story references current digital technology and language placing Aaron and Casey on their first date in a bistro. There, restaurant patrons become the couples' "others" -- exes, parents, best friends. The music is delightful, the singers in top form, the head waiter a familiar face (recently the star of SDMT's "The Producers.") Aaron's and Casey’s inner critics transform other diners and themselves. Singing, dancing, scheming, wisecracking, soul searching lead to the discovery that they do have potential after all. Bravura performances all around. Through May 7.    SDMT.org Veteran actors and singers dress the stage in "The Geeze and Me" at the Tenth Avenue Arts Center in downtown San Diego. * RAG LADY PRODUCTIONS:  "The Geeze and Me" is a world premier, a high-energy, moving and irreverent musical about the woes of aging. The original work features short, memorable songs -- lovely ballads to rock 'n' roll, blues and boogie -- expertly delivered by a well tuned ensemble including the aging counselor who elicits their stories. The eclectic blend of songs -- from bawdy to beautiful -- unfolds with fun choreography. The perils, challenges and perks of changing bodies, rearranged priorities, illness, loss, loneliness and growth spell an engaging evening at the theater, presented with chutzpah and a cutting, comic edge. The production is musically directed by B.J. Robinson. Hedges Capers and Nancy Locke Capers collaborated on this delightful work. Through April 29. thegeezeandme.com .  Jimmy Buffett tunes are on tap at La Jolla Playhouse in a world premiere. MORE THEATER TREATS COMING SOON: LA JOLLA PLAYHOUSE : "Escape to Margaritaville." Whether you're a Parrothead or not, this new world premiere musical sounds enticing as a shot of tequila and a shaker of salt on a scorching day . Original songs and favorite Jimmy Buffett classics tell the story directed by Christopher Ashley. The romantic tale features Tully, a part-time bartender who sings (of course he does!) and a career-minded tourist who steals his heart and forces a re-evaluation of his thinking. May 9 through June 18. lajollaplayhouse.org A classic of the American musical theater songbook comes to Welk Resort for a long likely sold-out run. WELK RESORT : "The Music Man." Fast-talking Harold Hill cons the people of River City, Iowa, into buying musical instruments and uniforms and forming a band, although he knows not a note of music. Marian the librarian turns him into a respectable citizen in this classic of the American theater. Barbershop tunes, lovely ballads and the rousing "Trouble" and  "76 Trombones" on tap. (I know every lyric and so do thousands of you!) May 5 through July 23.  welkresorts.com/san-diego/theatre/ A Greek restoration team took care with each stone and slab in a major restoration effort of the tomb of Jesus in Jerusalem. UP NEXT: Holy Days in Jerusalem this year take on a special significance.  The Church of the Holy Sepulchre and its sacred tomb, believed to be the burial place and resurrection scene of Jesus, have undergone an elaborate restoration and facelift. We visit the city and the church, and invite you to join us. Remember to explore, learn and live and   catch us here each weekend for a lively new take on the arts, travel and nature.

Seattle's lovely bays and inlets provide picturesque harbor for hundreds of boats, photographed near sunset from Candere. IT'S PERSONALIZED, HISTORIC, COMFY, WITH SPLENDID SCENERY, COMMENTARY AND COCKTAILS! Cookie takes notes as Candere glides into Lake Union. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Born and raised near Seattle's waters, Captain Dylan knows his boat and town. Among the houses you'll see is the "Sleepless in Seattle" one, at far right. A DAY ON the waters with  Candere offers a pleasant, friendly, welcoming way to enjoy an insider's look at Seattle's water pleasures. In this day of mass production and "take a number" tours, Candere provides that rare opportunity to customize your own outing, to see what you want, drink what you like and enjoy literate, engaging commentary about a region beloved by the boat's captain. WE CHOSE Candere after scouring dozens of brochures....... looking for a unique Seattle outing.  Having visited many times in all seasons, we wanted something fresh to photograph and write about.  We found it in spades. Or shall we say, "in a native son's waters." Candere means "to glow or shine" and your trip does both. A family endeavor and small, hands on enterprise, the operation is an entrepreneurial dare for a father-son team. "We wanted to come up with something unusual," says Dylan McCoy, "so we devised the idea of a private cocktail cruise." He knows Seattle better than most, and told its lively history from the water's point of view -- from logging shacks and Depression era slums to millionaire hideaways and state-of-the-art technological creations. THE COCKTAILS are indeed part of the attraction, but for us not the main event.  (I drink a bit of white wine and my partner-photographer Bruce Keller drinks non-alcoholic beer.)  Those with tastes for stronger spirits will not be disappointed as Dylan will ask your favorite beverage before you meet your custom tour. Candere cruising will take you inside Seattle's lesser known waterways, as well as into the more familiar parts of the city's vast water networks. With his expert hand at the helm, we cruised Lake Union, viewing Seattle's wonders close-up: seaplane take-offs and landings and Seattle's much photographed Space Needle.  We checked out Gas Works Park, the Fremont Bridge and St. Marks Cathedral, with interesting trivia about the floating homes for which Seattle is known. Candere is just the right size for a small party, with a cover that can come down in case of rains. While on the lake, we asked to see the house boat made famous by Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in the classic romantic comedy, "Sleepless in Seattle." It sold for two million bucks three years ago and sits at the end of a story-book dock with a flower-lined entry off Westlake Avenue North on the lake, probably one of the most iconic properties in Seattle -- right up there with the Space Needle. Cruising along, we perused the city's modestly maintained and oldest floating home.  Then there were the yachts -- nothing modest about them. Over the top, elegant, sleek. Dylan regaled us with stories of the classic cruisers and multi-million-dollar vessels docked all along the waterways. OUR TRIP  offered a delightful way to enjoy Seattle's varied waterways and learn something about this fertile, interesting part of the Pacific Northwest. Our young entrepreneur, Captain Dylan, helped restore his beloved sailboat with his dad, and the two intend to keep their small, personable enterprise hands on.   You can book the motor boat or Dylan's sailing vessel, for a few couples, a single couple wanting privacy and romance or a family having a reunion or birthday party. Prices vary and are based on what you want to see and how long you will be out. My husband is a sailor and helped with minor logistical sailing details but Dylan doesn't need help.  Recently, he began a partnership with another small charter company. "Our goal is to involve a variety of independent charter boats in the area to offer a mix of experiences and adventures on the water," Dylan says. "As we build, we hope to give back to our community. We're thinking 'Adventures with a purpose,' using profits to fund environmental projects and support worthy causes."    Architect Cesar Manrique gave the island its unique  stamp.  His creative genius marks many of Lanzarote's buildings. UP NEXT:   We visit Lanzarote, in the Canary Islands, our favorite of this quiet and diverse grouping of islands south of Spain. A remarkable man, the late Cesar Manrique is responsible for giving the island a unique architectural character with splendid buildings merging land and sea, creature comforts and the wonders of nature. Explore, learn and live and catch us each weekend for a novel approach to nature, travel and the arts.

Delicate seahorses are one of the stars at Birch Aquarium in La Jolla, California, and a major San Diego attraction. SMALL BUT MIGHTY La JOLLA AQUARIUM CHARMS WITH ITS FINE COLLECTION, EXCELLENT DISPLAY, WITH USER-FRIENDLY CONSERVATIONISM SHOWING OFF LOCAL SEA WONDERS Beautifully kept tanks and carefully planned exhibits give up-close viewing. Here, a 30-pound grouper glides through the waters. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE DRIVE  past Birch Aquarium several times a week, so last weekend was the time to check it out.  We had curious and photogenic guests -- our niece and her young precocious three-year-old. Anemone, abalone, sea urchins and kelp make a fine, natural display. So the four of us stepped into the wonderland of this small, beautifully curated aquarium. Our great-niece, Peny Ganner, enjoys Birch's water-driven play. From the moment you enter the door, you'll feel the privilege of keeping company with the exotic sea creatures that make their home along the Pacific Coast of southern California. The kelp forest attracts a stunning variety of life that gives this part of the country its diversity of fishes and invertebrates. YOU CAN  mingle with this appealing diversity: sharks, starfish, anemone and sea horses, sharing the learning and the appreciation with kids, grandchildren, neighbors, friends. It's a wonderful family outing. We took our niece, Amarylla,  and her youngster, our great-niece Peny, and had a marvelous afternoon, both indoors and outside. Hands on exhibits include this shark display for fun photo possibilities. Here three generations of ocean lovers: from left, Peny and Amarylla Ganner and their  "Auntie Cookie," Christene Meyers  The aquarium is located on a pretty perch on the bluffs of La Jolla, where the world famous University of California San Diego does its Graceful jellyfish float and flit about, to the delight of visitors. groundbreaking research through Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego. Birch Aquarium is all about public outreach, education and creating a savvy "next generation" of conservationists and aware consumers. A continuing list of creative programs both inside the aquarium and around the city is offered for schools and kids of all ages attracts hundreds of ocean lovers. Next week, observe grunion spawn on La Jolla beaches, and watch them hatch during a special presentation. An exhibit, "Feeling the Heat," teaches about climate science and global warming. OUR NIECE , Peny, was fascinated by the interactive tide pools and exhibitions for all things under the sea in an oceanside building. We spent a leisurely two hours walking through the exhibits, returning to enjoy the whales, jellyfish and gorgeous seahorses, all among the most popular exhibits. A tank of sardines greets you in the lobby of Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego.  San Francisco aquarium charms, too Our time there was particularly fun because we represented three generations and the age range of  our fellow ocean admirers followed suit. at play inside he aquarium. We've also appreciated and enjoyed Birch Aquarium's participation in the wonderful Flagship whale watching adventures from downtown. Each year, we join Flagship's daily gathering of tourists and locals to embark on a thrilling journey to watch migrating whales. The experts are always knowledgeable and enthusiastic and Birch Aquarium at Scripps provides the experts. IF YOU ARE  lucky, you can also watch the whales from Birch Aquarium's ringside viewing area. Right outside the aquarium, Birch has designed a lovely area to watch the longest mammal migration in the world, when approximately 20,000 gray whales pass San Diego on their annual 10,000-mile round-trip journey from the Bering Sea to the lagoons of Baja ... Penelope Margaret Ganner enjoys the whale sculptures and pools near the entrance to Birch Aquarium, 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, Calif.  Candere Cruising of Seattle provides unique water experience with Captain Dylan designing a custom made day at sea. UP NEXT:   If you're planning a visit to the other end of the west coast, the Pacific Northwest, Candere Cruising can provide a spectacular, tailor-made tour of Seattle.  From cocktails, to browsing the neighborhoods of Seattle's waterways, Captain Dylan can design an unforgetable day on the water. Remember to enjoy, explore and learn and catch us each weekend for a unique approach to nature and the arts.

Mother Nature makes artful bouquets by the thousands on the desert floor of Anza Borrego State Park. Here, the white blooms of the desert chicory poke up through the lavender of the sand verbena.  Bruce Keller takes a photographer's aim at Anza Borrego's wildflower mecca. Wildflowers appear in record numbers bringing flower frenzy to southern California's Anza Borrego desert   A veritable sea of yellow awaits as the desert dandelions blanket the Anza Borrego desert in southern California. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FANS OF FLOWERS,  heads up. Grab your camera, hitch up your hiking shoes and head for the desert near Borrego Springs, California. Prepare to be showered with the most spectacular showing of spring flowers seen in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park since the early 1990s. We based at the lovely Casa del Zorro resort in Borrego (a stunning oasis on the desert with fabulous food, gorgeous views and splendid accommodations, to be featured later. It deserves its own separate illustrated story, not to be overshadowed by flower power). THE MANAGER at La Casa, Patrick Sampson, is an amiable Brit, fond of flowers and in love with the power of what he calls "flower frenzy."  Arizona lupine, foreground, stretches toward the sky. Crowds in this normally quiet and peaceful little town bear witness to the allure of this unusual bloom, beautiful in any year, extraordinary this spring.  His popular and classy property has been running at full. Grocery stores are hustling to keep product on the shelves and you may not get your first-choice time at the restaurants. It's all well worth it. Said Teresa, our amiable waitress at Zorros' fun dining venue, Fox Den, "We haven't seen anything like this in years." At the small but adequate downtown market, shelf supplies were sparse as tourists queued up for crackers, sodas and sweets to keep them nourished for the viewing. WHEN YOU first set eyes on nature's showy displays, it's as if a top-notch florist has visited before you, so artfully are the flowers arranged. Hiker's proof: shoes are covered in pollen;  we call it fairy dust, a pleasant trophy. In a completely natural setting, mesmerized flocks stand in wonder to gaze at the complementary colors, lovely groupings of sand verbena, dune evening primroses with their  wide white petals, splashy yellow desert sunflowers, the dimunitive desert star bloom, delicate rock daisy, showy hedghog, happy monkey flower, sprawling onyx and checker fiddleneck -- which resembles the neck of a violin, thus the moniker. DESERT LILIES  beckon for closer inspection and the queen of the desert is the prolific bright yellow desert dandelion. Roadsides are lined with the beauty, and Anza Borrego's 630,000 acres are filled with tourists. Although the town boasts only 1,300 full-time residents, more than 20,000 of us visited last weekend. Restaurants, bars and shops overflow so it's a giant boost for the economy. We joined the frenzy of camera-toting flower fans as we hit the trails, heads bowed. We had a good day, logging 23 varieties of blooms. The park's excellent complimentary wildflower guide is a huge help. More lupine, in a lovely deep pink shade, and a hitchhiking butterfly. Below right, a biker gets up close with excellent viewing. The park's excellent complimentary wildflower guide is a huge help. Weekends are of course more crowded, so we came on a Wednesday-Thursday. If you can get there early next week, viewing is expected to be at its zenith. Early in the week promises better access, so you can find lodging and parking spots in the lots. Do make a lodging reservation and if you can't find a space in the hotels or air bnbs, consider staying in Chula Vista or San Diego, only 58 miles away. You might also consider the charming town of Julian, a charming town, then driving the 20 miles to Borrego. Go to visitjulian.com Portable bathrooms are also the only option once into the desert, and the parking lot spaces are farther from viewing spots as the day commences.  The park has a wildflower hotline for information: 760 767-4684.  Ask for maps and specific information about the status of the blooming season. WE HOPE  we don't have to wait another two decades for this splendid wonder of nature to recur. What a marvelous few days we had.  If you miss the Borrego blooms check out this website for spring flowers near you, including those on the Mojave, Joshua Tree and other deserts and venues. And remember La Casa del Zorro for a fabulous stay:  w ww.lacasadelzorro.com www.visitcalifornia.com/attraction/californias-spring-2019-wildflower-forecast The Birch Aquarium in San Diego has a world class series of exhibits. NEXT UP:  Fans of aquariums, we have a great one for you. Birch Aquarium in San Diego is a user-friendly find suitable for all ages. In it, discovery, interaction and education are the bywords. This gem of undersea treasures sparkles with the natural wonders of our oceans, giving special attention to sea life right out the window. The Aquarium also offers a splendid vantage point for viewing the mighty grey whales, now finishing its migration south fromAlaska to warmer Baja waters. Remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us each weekend for a novel approach to travel, nature and the lively arts.

The entrance to Clifton's, a Los Angeles tradition, is a preview to the lights, glitz, old-fashioned fare and displays inside. While you enjoy old-fashioned cafeteria food, you may be entertained by a juggler, gymnast or musicians. POPULAR EATERY IS STEEPED IN HISTORY, FAVORITE OF LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU WILL  feel as if you're an extra in "Alice in Wonderland" at Clifton's where you'll happily travel down the rabbit hole to discovery -- critters in full taxidermy glory, gymnasts, partiers, gourmands, history buffs and families gathering in what feels like a real forest. Our Los Angeles friends suggested we stop by Clifton's Cafeteria for a beverage and snack after a recent play at the Ahmanson Theater. Deer, bears and here a handsome lion await.  "It's unlike anything you might imagine," said our friend Sue, a native Angelina. She grew up as a Clifton's patron, coming to the cafeteria with her family and still enjoying the occasional Clifton's foray today. She was right. Nothing like it. The vintage nature of Clifton's includes lovely appointments, even in the men's room. Clifton's Cafeteria is a Los Angeles landmark. No, you are not seeing things.  It's a massive fake tree,  cut into the floors above you. All part of Clifton's decor.   CALIFORNIA'S  lone survivor from the Golden Age of cafeterias gives new meaning to "dining experience" with stuffed animals, a giant faux tree "growing" artfully through several of the restaurant's five stories and more. It's crammed with artifacts, antiques and kitsch, a “Cabinet of Curiosities” and a variety of other eccentric attractions to celebrate California’s diverse natural and cultural legacy. The cafeteria is known for its forest themed environment, the star of which is the fake tree installed in a cut-away ceiling. The charming but wacky place has no doubt survived because of both its fine food and word-of-mouth reputation, as well as five generations of family support and innovation. It is named after Clifford Clinton, who combined his names for the "Clifton" handle.  It began as a modest eatery in 1888 when his ancestor, David Harrison Clinton, a 45-year-old Confederate veteran from Missouri, traveled to Los Angeles with a teenage son. HE BOUGHT  the Southern Hotel on Main Street and opened a restaurant and dining room. Its reputation grew and it was proudly passed on through the generations, evolving in 1931 into Clifton's which grew to a chain of eight.  The Brookdale eatery is the lone survivor. Many believe its restored and historic dining hall and fantasy environment, "Forest Glen," helped inspire Walt Disney to create Disneyland nearly two decades later.   Makes sense because a trip to Clifton's is a trip to fantasyland, from its "Crystal Caverns" filled with rare minerals to artful terraces, a stone chapel, impressive murals and vintage artwork. IN A CITY  known for excess, the cafeteria provides a stunning albeit over-the-top experience dedicated to both tasty food, and to the celebration of California's colorful past.  Entrepreneur Clinton held value, quality, innovation and contemporary twists as his goals.  A plaque about the state's beloved redwoods pays tribute. Old fashioned home cooking is the byword at Clifton's, from jello to beef and potatoes.  WE TRIED several items -- from thick sandwiches to soups and snacks.  We settled at a table on the second floor and were soon entertained by a limber gymnast performing on ropes hung from the ceiling. Sue headed downstairs to order small plates and sandwiches while I queued up for beverages.  One may go through the cafeteria line or buffet and make it a quick meal or a leisurely one with old-fashioned cafeteria entrees or tasty small plates. Be sure to wander through the exhibits. "We're about good food and visual entertainment," the bartender told me. "We're into pleasing people." NorthCoast Repertory Theatre's "The Illusion" is a beautifully rendered  play for play lovers -- by Tony Kushner, of "Angels in America" fame. Pictured are actors John Herzog as the father, and Kandi Chappell as the sorceress. BEST BETS: San Diego is experiencing a happy glut of theatrical riches. Not to miss is "The Illusion," a fantastical tale with elements of magic, about a father-son estrangement, the bonds of love and the power of regret. The Rep's gifted artistic director David Ellenstein is at the helm, so expect precision, artful staging and top acting. It runs through March 19: Go to  northcoastrep.org Also up through March 19, at the Lyceum in downtown San Diego, "Sex With Strangers" is a smart, acerbic two-person comedy about high-powered seduction, technology's effect on relationships, the competitive publishing world and physical attraction. Terrific acting, a gorgeous set, clever writing and fast-paced direction draw the audience in for a clever-twist ending. Go to  sdrep.org   Check out Cygnet Theatre and San Diego Musical Theatre for fun musicals. Bruce Keller takes aim as the day dawns at Anza Borrego's wildflower frenzy. NEXT UP :  Up for a road trip to some of the most spectacular wildflowers you'll see this lifetime? The Anza Borrego Desert near San Diego is experiencing record blooms through mid-April, due to recent rains and just the right temperature and sunshine to make the seeds happy. We're on the trail of the blooming wonder and will share on the next posting, coming soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each weekend for a lively approach to travel, nature and the lively arts.

Mary Tyler Moore's show featured an independent, confident, funny woman. GROUNDBREAKING TV SERIES CHANGED THE WORLD'S TAKE ON CAREER WOMEN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS courtesy Larry Mayer, Billings Gazette and CBS THE DEATH this week of Mary Tyler Moore brought a flood of bittersweet memories of the early 1970s when I was establishing my career as a journalist. While Moore's fictional Mary Richards was fighting for the modern woman, I was a young reporter in Montana, one of many female journalists all over America doing the same thing. Moore's friends and colleagues were painted as real humans. The show, which Moore also produced, featured a single woman forging a career in a male dominated profession. I was doing that in The Billings Gazette newsroom, where I signed on as a college freshman in 1968. My supervisor, Kathryn Wright, was the Gazette's first female reporter when hired  in 1942, "to cover the cops while the men went off to war," she explained. Mary Tyler Moore in her associate producer role in a Minneapolis newsroom. My first job was as "Society Editor,"  a title that itself reflects the times.  Women were largely perceived as housewives. If they worked, it was part-time, out of boredom, for pin money or to augment "the man's" salary. They might volunteer at the symphony or theater, planning fundraisers or galas. But the belief was that women were mostly interested in "society," sipping sherry, playing tennis, lunching with the girls at the country club, maybe venturing to take a secretarial post. (Not that there's anything wrong with that, as Seinfeld would say.) Click here: more on MTM, favorite performers I WANTED MORE  -- as millions of my peers did worldwide. I lobbied for changing the "society" title to "lifestyle." That happened. I aced a night police reporter job, so I could finish my degree by day, and covered major beats including education, city hall and county. By the late 1970s, I was writing film and theater reviews, and editing the arts and travel section. Women in the newsroom were increasing. The show was remarkable -- fine writing, characters who were interesting, multi-dimensional.  Many of the MTM Show writers were women. Journalism has always attracted smart, determined women, from photographer Margaret Bourke White and daring reporter Nellie Bly to Helen Thomas, Gloria Steinem, Nora Ephron, Barbara Walters, Molly Ivins, Christiane Amanpour, Diane Sawyer, Jane Pauley and Gwen Ifill, who broke both race and gender barriers on PBS. They juggled personal lives, sacrificed, demanded attention and equality. My beloved mentor cautioned, "You have to work twice as hard, look twice as good, keep trim, behave yourself, watch your language." Men, she believed, could come to work late with grease on their ties, drink like fish, cuss like sailors, turn bald and fat and be told they looked "distinguished." MARY WAS  single, recently out of a failed Christene Meyers, 1972, in the hairstyle of the day Mary Tyler Moore's Mary Richards character in 1977, nearing the end of the show's smash hit run. relationship. I was single the first part of my long career with Lee Newspapers. My byline for nearly three years was Chris Cosgriffe. I liked its Gaelic ring and alliteration. I was beginning to get national attention.  So when I married Bruce Meyers in 1970, we decided I would keep my maiden name and byline. That was fine with Bruce. He was a modern man. I told the newspaper of my decision. Phyllis, Mary and Rhoda in a studio shot, early 1970s. The show influenced fashion as well as social attitude. Christene enroute to cover the Miss America pageant in 1968. But to my dismay, the managing editor changed my byline. When we returned from our honeymoon in the South Pacific, I had become Chris Meyers. I could have taken them on, but that would have been awkward. I picked my battles in those early days of NOW and the Equal Rights Amendment. I had bigger fish to fry. Mary Tyler Moore got her break as Laura Petrie on "The Dick Van Dyke Show." It laid the groundwork for MTM's character, Mary Richards.    MOORE'S CHARACTER,  dress and attitude were way ahead of her times.  She called "Mr. Grant" on his chauvinism and challenged him for a raise when she discovered her salary was less than her predecessor's. "Why is that, Mr. Grant?" she asked. "Because he was a man," the Ed Asner character replied. 'It has nothing to do with your work." My "Mr. Grant" was Doc Bowler, a genial, sharp, old-school newsman who patrolled the newsroom like a general inspecting his troops.  Bowler's second in command was George, in charge of evaluations and pay raises. I approached him after discovering two of my male colleagues earned more than I did -- yet I'd been in the newsroom longer and received stellar evaluations. George took a puff of his pipe (everyone smoked in those days) and asked: "Your husband makes a good salary, doesn't he?" I was dismayed. What did that have to do with anything. "He's an assistant professor," George continued, "and you don't have children." he said. "So you're doing just fine." Mary Tyler Moore found true love in her third marriage to Dr. Robert Levine. Christene with her late husband, Bruce Meyers. He passed in 1992. Christene with Bruce Keller, her partner since 2007. I eventually got the raise. I had to appeal to Doc Bowler and write a letter outlining my reasons for the request.  When I speak to female college students today, they are amazed at the pay discrepancy and byline change. "That's outrageous," said one young 20-something recently. "What did you do?" I WORKED  for change, as Mary's fictional character and millions of other real live women did. Her character gave us courage, confirming that we were on the right track. Moore's show was among the first to address birth control, homosexuality, sexuality.  When Bruce and I decided to marry, we merged households.  That was highly frowned upon by my bosses, whom I reassured that we were planning to marry. "Good," said one, "but make it soon. People are talking." So much is acceptable now that was verboten then: not taking the man's name, equal pay for equal work, living together before marriage -- or even if marriage isn't planned. We were light years from same-sex acceptance and the notion of pregnancy outside of marriage. Christene, 2015 Mary Tyler Moore,  2008. MY COLLEAGUES  at the Montana newspaper were a western version of the colorful denizens of Mary's newsroom -- the photographer whose specialty was provocative pretty-women shots, the eccentric columnist who liked a nip on his rounds, the union printer who asked me after three years of marriage why "there's no bun in the oven." Again, dismay. "You need one kid, to take care of you when you're old," offered Chuck. Our sports editor, Norm, a fine writer and now a famous Las Vegas columnist, was my pal, my Murray. Later, after Norm left, Roger, another brilliant writer, became my newsroom buddy. We were all rebels, hard-working and irreverent. We didn't have anyone as blatantly sexy as Sue Ann Niven but there was plenty of suggestion and innuendo. I dealt with inappropriate touching (my rear was pinched dozens of times), boob squeezers, and sources who offered information in return for sex. Now, they'd be sued, fired or at the very least reprimanded. Mary Tyler Moore's signature hat in the air. WE'RE WISER  for having known sassy Mary Richards and her savvy creator, Mary Tyler Moore. When I interviewed Moore in 1980, for "Ordinary People," she said her two hit TV shows ("The Dick Van Dyke Show" and MTM) paralleled her life. "I am  those women," she laughed. "If those characters felt real to others, it's because they are so very real to me." She also confessed to wanting to be a professional dancer (she was wonderful.) "Behind that successful actor is a failed dancer," she told me. MY PERSONAL  life paralleled MTM's. She had three relationships, her last with a much loved younger man. She suffered great personal loss and forged onward. She kept her humor and grace, though she didn't become what she originally thought she'd be. (As a kid, I wanted to be a conductor.) She kept her head high, integrity intact. She never stopped laughing or giving, producing more TV shows, inspiring others. Hat's high in the air for you, Mary. You made it, after all. Bruce Keller (and Cookie, at the camera this time) packed up recently for a week in Malaga. They'll tell why it's become a favorite city.  UP NEXT : We've returned to a favorite port of southern Europe, lovely Malaga, an inviting city on southern Spain’s Costa del Sol. Instead of a glamorous high-rise resorts, we chose a splendid parador, high above the yellow-sand beaches and next to a Moorish citadel which gave our delightful Parador Gibralfaro its name. Come with us to the Alcazaba -- and more, remembering to explore, learn and live and follow us Fridays when we post for the weekend.