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Owner Jay Garnett of Surfing Goat Dairy in Maui has his hands full.  After decades in the corporate world in his native Canada, he took over the enterprise in 2023. He is involved in all aspects of the growing operation -- from customer service to tours, goat health, cheese manufacturing and more. CREATIVE ENDEAVOR WITH GOATS IS PERFECT FIT FOR ALBERTA BORN ENTREPRENEUR  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Bruce Keller smiles as a young goat tries to munch on his colorful Hawaiian shirt. IF YOU LOVE  goats, you will be in billy goat heaven at Maui's lively Surfing Goat Dairy. It's an appealing place to spend a few hours. We toured with manager-owner Jay Garnett, who bought the business from a German couple in 2023. They retired, leaving a legacy of goats, surf boards, and a successful dairy which Garnett is expanding in creative ways. The project came together as Garnett was recovering from a polo accident and had time to research his plan to make a life change. Doing his homework, he found the Maui place for sale and began negotiations. The rest is history. GARNETT IS  hands on -- literally. He feeds the goats, delivers their babies, arranges tours, caters lunches and tastings, sweeps, milks, shovels poop and repairs what needs fixing. He is an idea man, people oriented and constantly expanding the business. Maui goats are delightful tourist attractions. He works with the dairy's veterinarian to give the guys and gals their vaccinations. His intuition and eagle eye -- call it goat ESP -- can detect if one of the herd needs attention, doctoring or other special care. He has assisted in delivering hundreds of kids -- including several sets of twins and even triplets.  He also acts as chief  marketer for the dairy's fabulous goat cheese and goat truffles. Check out turtles, wildlife in Hawaii HOW DID the place its catchy name? "The German couple who started it in 1999 shared two interests -- goats and wind surfing. The name was catchy and it fits the spirit of island life," says Garnett, who owns and manages the place with a small group of Canadian investors. He took over the enterprise a few years ago, with high hopes. He also admits to a sentimental attachment to Maui, where he was married 30 years ago.  Moving to the verdant slopes of this beautiful part of Hawaii, he has made it grow by goat leaps and bounds. The original owners retired nearby and Thomas and Eva Kafsack, occasionally come to visit and keep an eye on the progress of their pet project, Garnett says. "Eva considers the goats her children." She, like Garnett, likes to hand-feeds the goats, and Garnett has learned as Eva did to be midwife, helping deliver the newborns in birthing frenzies when the females go into labor en masse. "They tend to give birth at the same time, so the place can be really jumping," Garnett says. He recalls one birthing period when he   helped deliver more than two dozen kids over a period of just a few hectic, demanding hours. Garnett, 53, is a man of broad and varied interests. He has had his hand in myriad businesses -- coffee growing, online grocery operations and liquor imports. He once helped a cannabis company go public. The subtle flavors of the Surfing Goat Dairy cheeses have won acclaim and awards. He got into the goat business because it interested him. "It has so many facets," he said. "I like doing whatever needs to be done on the farm. Every day is new  Jay Garnett is always on the go, here making sure tourists are entertained as he plays with the goats. -- always something different. He demonstrates this by excusing himself from the goat pens to step behind the counter and arrange catering plates for a reception. SURFING GOAT Dairy is nestled near Kula, on the slopes of Haleakala in what is called "Maui’s Upcountry." Maui’s largest commercial dairy is known throughout the islands. "We are a culinary and ag-tourism haven where visitors are welcome to experience the magic of cheese-making," says Garnett.  We joined a couple tours, part of the interactive goat experience. Our trek around the grounds included watching workers in the dairy, visiting the truffle counter, sampling delectable goat cheeses, playing with the kids.  The dairy has won awards for its gourmet goat cheeses, always in high demand. "And we're proud of our gourmet truffles," says Garnett.  "We're committed to quality, flavor, and the spirit of aloha." The subtle flavors, he says, are developed from the combination of uncommon breeds and the rich land that nourishes them. Surfing Goat Dairy offers appealing, entertaining tours, award winning cheese and delightful viewing. GARNETT IS  also making structural changes to improve the property, expanding the existing store, increasing its offerings and building space for new products. The unique goat cheeses are popular all around the area, with much of the business going to restaurants and eateries. "We're always looking at new products, new markets," he says. Maui aquarium one of world's finest MORE THAN 25,000 tourists came to the farm last year. We also visited nearby attractions -- the Aliʻi Kula Lavender farm and Ocean Vodka. The changes Garnett is making will increase tourism for his enterprise, he hopes, adding a tasting area and sprucing up the reception space. He combines An impressive array of truffles awaits visitors.  his sharp eye and creative instincts with a love of nature, all of which add appeal. His busy staff is on the go and he supervises. Someone is always planting flowers, tidying up the space. The intention is to pump up the user friendly angle. "I'm people oriented. I think what I would like to see if I were visiting a place for the first time," he says, between wrestling a playful goat into a pen and instructing tourists on the proper way to pick up a young kid." (Use both arms and always support the critter's frame.) It's a magical place, sure to open your heart and mind to the wonderful world of goats. Click here for more on the dairy    Fireworks on Oahu, a Fourth of July tradition. Waikiki Beach is aglow. UP NEXT: Fourth of July fun is on tap. Celebrations, parades, barbecues, reunions, shenanigans, fireworks and more are planned next week as our country -- and Americans in other parts of the world -- celebrate the Fourth of July week. Tourists hit the road, families gather and people relax and celebrate our country's official birthday. Pride in the heritage of our great nation can be felt and seen and the USA is not the only place where fireworks celebrate our Fourth of July. Ex-pat enclaves, like the one in Paris, have fireworks celebrations, too. We'll take you to some of them as we live, laugh and learn.  Check us out for a fresh weekly spin on travel, nature, performance and the arts. Please share our links with like minded people:   Click here for more whereiscookie.com

Expert tango dancers move with the music at Pampas Argentine Grill. STORY: CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Is there a dance more sexy than the tango? Is there any ballroom movement more appealing? More showy? More bold and dramatic? In a lifelong fascination with the form, I've taken tango lessons in Argentina! That takes chutzpah! I've applauded tango shows every chance I get -- in many other places in the world, including smokey basements in Manhattan, and spacious ballrooms in London. Tango is intimate, calling for quick, decisive moves as a couple dances. Imagine my surprise and delight to find that San Diego is tango crazy! I love it. There are tango clubs, an abundance of world-class instructors and several venues which feature tango and welcome newcomers. A North Park Club even celebrates tango love on a regular monthly basis, with parties and dances every fourth Sunday from 8-11 p.m. It's Tango Addicts Milonga. (Google San Diego tango and you'll find a wealth of references and information and fine teachers to encourage.) A tiny venue in San Diego features magnificent tango in a setting that might surprise you!  In the heart of busy traffic and city life, Pampas Argentine Grill in a small shopping mall at 8690 Aero Drive offers enthusiastic tango and tasty fare. Legwork is part of tango teamwork. We sampled the enticing package with our sailing buddies, Melanie and Larry Cogsdill. We laughed and sighed and applauded -- a tango-tinged, bang-up evening -- and we recommend it to tango aficionados and fans of small clubs. The much larger and opulent Tango Del Rey can accommodate parties of 50 to 250 and is glorious for its decor and drama.  The intimate atmosphere at Pampas lends itself to tango up-close and personal. It's great to be close enough to observe and enjoy the chemistry between the dancers, and to see, savor and appreciate the intricacy of the quick, precise moves and steps. Pampas provides that, with a dozen tables and a small but ample square wood dance floor on which the performers do their thing. Tango has been around for at least 150 years, and most historians believe it was born in the working class neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.  Its success before and after the First World War took tango to international heights and its Golden Age from the mid 1930s until the coup in Argentina in 1955. For a time, tango was in the closet. The art form experienced a "dark ages" when the dance was pushed underground and persecuted, and the fabulous Tango renaissance which has spread the dance once again all over the world.  It's sexy, romantic, beautiful -- to watch or try yourself.  So I'm exercising, practicing my turns and polishing my red heels! Keller is hat-shopping! Larry Cogsdill delights in the dancers. COMING SOON : Our tango loving travelers take a turn at the glider port, sail on the vintage yacht Jada and celebrate the glories of Montana summer. Remember to explore, learn and live! Check us our Wednesdays and Saturdays at: whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy an afternoon at the Museum of Latin  American Art in Long Beach, where Latin American artists from around the world are displayed. Intriguing installations are part of the charm and allure. Here, a Marta Boto plexiglass piece draws Cookie's eye. LONG BEACH MUSE UM SHOWCASES LATINO ART IN BEAUTIFULLY CURATED EXHIBITIONS  The Museum of Latin American Art's impressive collection extends to an artful sculpture garden.   This Carlos Luna piece expresses duality, a theme of exiled Cuban artists.  Sculpture Garden provides calming and fascinating place to reflect on artistic inspiration and global talent  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ON THE grounds of California's first movie studio, imagination continues to reign.  In the enchanting Museum of Latin American Art, contemporary works by acclaimed artists from around the world challenge viewers and offer fresh perspectives. Friendly, inviting, interactive, MoLAA  welcomes, tests and teases the viewer -- urging him to participate in a new vision. Judithe Hernandez makes a bold, graceful statement in the museum's sculpture garden. She is an acclaimed Chicana artist. The museum draws from its extensive permanent collection to present deftly curated exhibitions -- while inviting new artists to explore their own worlds and stimulate our senses. Works run the gamut from whimsical to provocative, from classical to avant-garde. THE SPACE is unique -- open and airy -- lending itself to a colorful landscape indoors which leads to a calming and intriguing outdoor sculpture garden.  Long before Hollywood existed, pioneers in the film industry were at work in this unassuming space on Alamitos Avenue in Long Beach.  In 1913 in a barn near the corner of Vine and Selma, Jesse Laskey and C. B. DeMille rented the space to make movies. Fragments of the original building still exist on the grounds where Charlie Chaplin and Mary Pickford got ready for their close-ups. Job Garcia's imagination is front and center in works at MoLAA. They were instrumental in forming what would become United Artists, through negotiations on the museum's present grounds.  Surely their spirits are smiling down on this unique and engaging museum.   IT IS ONE of the premier Latino museums in the country and is dedicated to modern and contemporary Latino art. The museum's mission is to educate, collect, preserve, present, and interpret art for cross-cultural dialogue. Knowledgeable and motivated docents are part of the charm of the museum.. Here, Paula asks viewers what they see, and responds with insightful commentary. THE MUSEUM has an impressive docent program, with highly skilled volunteers eager to express their interest in the museum's history and extensive holdings.  Our excellent docent explained its merging of art, science and technology.  Our visit was enriched by Paula's erudite explanations of individual pieces.  She explained the often complex layers of a painting or sculpture, questioning us to draw our impressions.  This interactive approach gives the visitor a genuine feeling of participation and is gratifying to both guest and guide. Sculpture is represented in the museum's eye-catching and varied exhibitions, both inside and in a lovely garden. PAULA SHARED her pride in the museum's impressive permanent collection and in a cutting edge installation, "Arteonica," which explores an obscure but fascinating Latin American art movement begun 60 years ago.  Waldemar Cordeiro is the muse behind the exhibit which explores the state of electronic and cybernetic arts, "a verbal synthesis featuring the computer as an instrument of positive social change influencing both art and culture." Intriguing multi-media exhibitions at MoLAA invite the visitor into the artists'  imaginations. The museum's overriding focus is to create a dialogue between art and people, much as Cordeiro's exhibition does. MANY OF the museum's pieces carry political and social messages, conveying the turbulent and often tragic consequences of dictatorships, thousands of "disappeared" persons, corruption, violence and political turmoil. A "don't miss" feature of this internationally known museum is its gorgeous garden. The Robert Gumbiner Sculpture and Events Garden showcases an extraordinary exhibition of sculpture from MOLAA’s permanent collection. Gumbiner, who passed away in 2009, was a beloved physician and philanthropist was a major force behind the museum's permanent collection and laid the groundwork for the sculpture garden. Bruce Keller "listens" to this Lucia Monge installation a fascinating study of nature by the noted Peruvian artist. It includes drawings, real plants connected to a microphone. The museum is rightly proud of both its indoor space and its outdoor space, internationally recognized as the most important collection of contemporary Latin American sculpture in the nation. The collection has grown due to the generous donations from artists and collectors, as well as from long-term loans. The sculpture garden now presents a permanent display of over 15 abstract and figurative sculptures representing almost one artist per Latin American country. WE WERE f ascinated by the variety of bronze, wood, metal, stainless-steel and polychrome metal. The diversity is impressive, reflecting an intriguing mix of  Latin American art. Abstract works include a bronze sculpture by Peruvian artist Fernando de Szyszlo, a stainless steel sculpture by Mexican artist Leonardo Nierman and a polychrome metal sculpture by Argentinean artist Perez Celis. Figurative works of note include bronze sculptures by Guatemalan artist Max Leiva, Panamanian artist Guillermo Trujillo and Cuban artist Carlos Luna. The museum showcases art by a "Who's Who" in Latin American talent. It is truly a  fascinating place. More information: www.molaa.org -- The museum is free on Sundays. Ask about docent tours, well worth the time. The Palms at Indian Head offers a relaxing respite, a calming and lovely escape from the heat of summer. ON TAP : With summer around the corner for most of the United States and the Northern Hemisphere, we begin a series of summer enticements. A fascinating hotel awaits in southern California, the Palms at Indian Head in the fascinating desert of Borrego Springs.  It was home to stars of yore -- Charlie Chaplin  Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe and other luminaries escaping the rigors and demands of the Hollywood studios. You can book a stay there today to relive their glamour days with an Olympic size pool, beautiful hiking   and a gourmet restaurant on property. The Palms at Indian Head is a quiet, restful getaway and we'll take you there to enjoy. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more. Please share the link:   www.whereiscookie.com

Fireworks erupt in an artful arch on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu. EAT HEARTILY, RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH FAMILY,  FIREWORKS, NEW FOOD,  & GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A powdered-sugar dusted beignet with a frothy coffee hits the spot anytime in New Orleans, especially for  holidays.     IF YOU'VE ALWAYS WANTED  to try a new recipe and do something daring in the kitchen, why not now? For this, our third annual holiday recipe column, we offer a family favorite with an Asian twist. We're on the other side of the solstice, thank the gods, and I'm already getting seed catalogues in the mail. So I've ordered herbs for the small garden that will garnish many meals. Consider this recipe,  We cooked this jambalaya while visiting friends in their New Orleans home over Christmas. and think about next summer's garden between trips to the buffet table, stove or  cookie jar. Do make time to try a favorite recipe, perhaps something you tasted over the holidays at a company party or neighborhood soiree. Try your hand at improvising with this tasty "fork roasted" dish, char siu. Add some red or yellow peppers to jazz it up. I'm most resourceful in situations where innovation is called for.  It's time honored. What better time to improvise and invent then when you're a "holiday cook" Here's a recipe that cries out for you to make it your own. It's a family favorite -- a pretty, garlic laden dish using pork, beef or chicken. Char siu is  heavily influenced by Chinese culture and came to me in Asia. It is quick, easy and not expensive and makes a favorite, showy holiday buffet item, or on any special occasion when you want a fast, succulent and satisfying meal.  It's also a great choice if you like small plates for a main course.  Try it with a couple other dishes and present them as appetizers, making a meal of these instead of a large main course of only one offering. A dinner out at a new restaurant is always a good back-up at holiday time. Char siu literally means "fork roasted." Whether you use pork, chicken, beef or tofu, the point is to get the "char." Make sure the main course is patted dry. Tofu should be drained and carefully patted with towels before the quick cook.) If your cooking skills betray you, try dining out on comfort food. Clifton's in Los Angeles hits the spot. An appetizer plate of cheeses, pate, olives and fruit makes a beautiful nosh while preparing a light meal. SO TRY it for a special occasion or even a speedy weeknight dinner when unexpected company shows up. Heck, try it for  yourselves for no special occasion! It's the ultimate comfort food -- juicy pork, beef or chicken, nicely spiced, charred a bit (the marinade slightly scorched gives it its lightly burned sweetness.) Serve it with your favorite rice and a salad. This recipe came from a sweet old Vietnamese woman we met several years ago on a bike tour. She didn't have specific measurements (like my Irish grandmother.) So improvise and use your best judgment. By the second time you make it, you'll know exactly how much of everything to prepare it the way you like. As a back-up, consider dinner out at a favorite, close-by restaurant. Cookie met a Thai grandmother and they formed an instant bond, communicating with her Berlitz Thai and a fondness for cats and cooking. Ba Diem shared a recipe. BA DIEM'S FAMOUS CHAR SIU (Ba means grandmother; Diem means beautiful. This recipe is heavily influenced by Ba Diem's Chinese grandmother's recipe. You can make the dish spicier with more pepper or serve it with Vietnamese chili or dipping sauce. Rinse  and cut chicken, pork or beef. (3/4 pound to pound, depending on number of guests.) Cut into strips at least 2-3 inches wide and long or short as you like. Marinate.  Mix 3/4 to one cup of honey, hoisin and soy sauce to taste (1/4 cup or more each.) Add cup of Shaoxing wine or dry sherry, 2 smashed and minced garlic gloves, tablespoon of ground ginger, teaspoon of five spice powder, hot ground pepper if you like, generous white pepper. Rub it over the meat/poultry. Marinate overnight (or at least a couple hours) in refrigerator. An appetizer plate of olives, chips, cheese and sardines can make a light holiday meal. Roast. Let the meat get juicy and cooked through on a wire rack in a low oven. Put pan beneath for drippings to add to glaze. Make a quick glaze by bringing the excess marinade and drippings, plus a couple large spoons of honey to a boil. Generously brush the meat/poultry/tofu with the glaze and give it a blast of heat to char it. Slice and enjoy! Set your sights on something new, daring and exciting for the new year.  Here we are on NCL's new cruise ship Viva. The Speedway is a three-level race track.  UP NEXT: Why not plan that cruise or trip to Rome, Paris, Venice, Amsterdam, Oslo, Copenhagen, Tokyo or the Andes??? Maybe it's a cruise you're yearning to take.  Norwegian Cruise Line's newest ship, Viva, is made to order for fun.  Its imaginative design beckons for independent travelers who want the pleasures of cruising without the crowds. Artful spaces encourage small groups, gourmet dining or visits over a cocktail with friends. Our New Year's column ushers in 2024, with the hopes we'll stretch and challenge ourselves.  If you've always wanted to plan a trip to a specific country -- perhaps Ireland, Norway, Austria or the Netherlands -- now's the time! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a new twist on travel, art, family, nature and more.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER It’s  spring  in San Diego!  The dolphins  are racing, the whales are heading south and the harbor seals are giving birth! We watched with wonder for several hours this week – critters relaxing, playing, moving.  The dolphins are fast and agile.  The seals seem cumbersome out of water but they, too, have bodies of amazing grace in the water. The whales always intrigue. Dolphin at the bow! Wow! We’ve been dolphin watching with friends from Montana, enjoying the whale watching enterprises out of both San Diego Bay and Mission Bay. We can recommend both H & M Landing and the Quivera Basin whale and dolphin watch boating operations. Excellent naturalists give commentary on board and adventurers have the opportunity to watch the grey whales enroute to Baja to give birth – through March.  Dolphins aplenty are a bonus! These intelligent, playful creatures follow the boat and dip and splash along. If you’ve never taken a three-hour whale and dolphin excursion, now’s the time. (We hope to have Bruce Keller’s short but sweet dolphin video up next week.) Papa seal at the watch. And if you want to “seal the deal,” San Diego is the place. It is now possible for the world to watch the mothers and pups frolicking and enjoying the good life. What a treat. Thanks to a progressive move by city hall, a new “seal cam” is up and running at the Children’s Pool beach in La Jolla.   Installed above the lifeguard station, it will photograph the seals in action.  The mayor’s idea is to share this natural wonder with the rest of the world, sending out online video of the frolicking and birthing seals, creating interest in wildlife and giving researchers immediate information and photos. The seal activity is being filmed with a high-tech $40,000 camera which will be on duty round-the-clock.  The gift comes from the Western Alliance for Nature and the pool and its inhabitants will be on camera with state-of-the-art equipment.  The camera is equipped with windshield wipers for stormy weather seal-viewing.  Its infrared capabilities will even capture mother seals birthing their pups at night. Besides charming viewers – probably millions worldwide -- the footage will aid researchers at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration in their study of harbor seal reproduction. In the five years I’ve been a regular visitor to San Diego, Children’s Pool has been controversial.  Donated by the Scripps family, the pool beach was built in 1931 as a place for children to swim safely in a calm inlet. Through the years, the children have been outnumbered, and in the past 12 years, the beach has become a refuge – not just an occasional destination -- for harbor seals, since it is safe and protected from crashing waves.  The popularity of the area by seals has spawned a clash between naturalists/activists and people who believe the pool should be returned to the kids.  Others, taking a middle ground, lobby for a way for humans and the engaging mammals to share the space. Nature lovers enjoy dolphins, seals and  migrating grey whales.-- Bruce Keller photos  Last year the city split that territory, leaving part of the sand to beach-goers while ceding the tidal zone to seals.  Still, the camera has critics, some of whom claim it raises privacy issues.  Most people we know are excited at the opportunity to see more of these fascinating creatures with whom we share the planet and our ocean. See more at EarthCam.com or ht tp://m.utsandiego.com/news/2013/jan/31/new-seal-cam-streams-wildlife-footage-from/

A juvenile orca learns how to swim next to his mother, south of Vancouver, near U.S. waters with Wild Whales Vancouver. In Alaska, Juneau Tours offers spectacular whale watching farther north. Juneau Tours offers up close, personal opportunities to see whales, with skilled drivers and guides to get you "there." ORCAS, HUMPBACKS ENTERTAIN, INFORM-- AND EVEN PROVIDE EYE-POPPING ANATOMY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CAN ONE ever get enough of whale watching? I think not. It's sheer magic, eye-popping, time-stopping magic. The erect penis of an orca can reach more than eight feet as this undersea image suggests. Art courtesy Chained Birds Each outing is different -- we've logged more than 100. Because of weather, waves, the boat's speed, ability of the naturalist and captain, mood and travel patterns of the whales, you'll always see something new. We've watched with awe these splendid creatures from Santa Barbara to Maui, Seattle to Iceland, Alaska to our winter base, San Diego. OUR LAST  five outings yielded spectacular sightings, although even with our practiced eyes, we didn't always have our cameras at precisely the right place and right time. We were so stunned to see orcas mating on a Wild Whales Vancouver outing, that we nearly forgot our mission. It was a magical adventure aboard the small, well organized company's sleek new Jing Yu vessel. I grew up in Montana and have spent time on ranches, but the Wild Whales mating orca experience was a first. Watching a humpback scoop up a huge mouthful of fish, to be filtered through his baleen, is a magnificent sight.  We saw the birds circling first! Accurate measurements of the erect orca penis are tough to make, because the whale's erect length can only be observed during mating.  We were lucky, our knowledgeable captain Michael said. There it was:  a huge penis above water, waiting for action (fellow passengers thought it was a squid or octopus.)  No, Michael assured us later, as his crew Luke and Christopher smiled. It was the male's sex organ. When the thrashing began, a female orca had answered the call. Our knowledgeable  on-board naturalist, Amila, shared scholarly insights on the fast boat ride from Vancouver. She, too, had never experienced mating whales, but knows a lot about orcas. WE HAD  just crossed into U.S. waters, south of Vancouver, B.C., after two and one-half hours of a beautiful journey along Vancouver Island, into the sea pointed south. We saw a few humpbacks, and many orcas, including a family of four -- mother teaching baby orca, with another older juvenile and papa bringing up the rear. Wild Whales Vancouver is tops. About a 30-minute boat ride from Juneau, you'll be treated to diving whales --  a thrilling sight -- with Juneau Tours. Headquartered on picturesque Granville Island with its pretty markets, restaurants and live music, it offers a nature-driven variety of whale watching tours into the Strait of Georgia and beyond. We also saw many seals and bald eagles. EARLIER IN two-plus weeks of whale watching, we'd been thrilled with Puget Sound Express, which we boarded at Edmonds, Washington, after a pleasant coach pick-up from the Hyatt in Seattle. In our whale watching days, we've been fortunate to see whales off the coast of Maui a half-dozen times. Aboard Juneau Tours, Alex and Luke provided lively commentary and a successful afternoon of viewing whales. We've seen the sperm and the blue, but never the elusive narwhal, known for his spectacular tusk. Then in Alaska's chilly waters, we were thrilled to hear "Thar they blows" aboard the well organized, highly rated Juneau Tours. The majestic backdrop of the Chilkat Mountains and Juneau's Ice Field framed exciting whale watching there,  enhanced by other wildlife sightings -- bald eagles, playful harbor seals and plump Stellar sea lions, sea otters and black-tailed deer. TO BE YARDS  away from something greater than you, something far more powerful and more spectacular, is a humbling experience. The fine mist from the humpback's spout as he feeds off Alaska's coast. To think that man nearly brought this beautiful creature to extinction makes seeing a pod of seven humpbacks even more moving. To see several dozen orcas, as we did on Puget Sound Express then with Wild Whales Vancouver, is extraordinary. ON OUR VARIOUS  outings, we saw   whales from five vessels -- aboard that small 15-passenger Juneau Tours vehicle, the 30-passenger Jing Yu speed boat out of Vancouver,  our 3,000-plus Explorer of the Seas on Royal Caribbean, a small motor boat and the sleek Puget Sound Express vessel, Chilkat. WHALES INHABIT a ll Earth's major oceans from the Arctic and Antarctic to the tropical waters of the equator. Shamefully, man nearly destroyed them and sadly, several nations  still hunt them. Cookie sets out on another whale-watching adventure.  This trip, we were lucky to have five different experiences -- on vessels large and small -- all offering spectacular sightings. Depending on species and migration patterns, some whales are abundant in some locations while absent in others. So look for other life, too. We loved watching sea lions lumber along the shores, and heave themselves on the buoys for sunshine. THE SMALLER  harbor seals were abundant in calmer waters. Out of Seattle, our Chilkat naturalist prepped us through Puget Sound Express for a thrilling week on the Royal Caribbean Explorer of the Seas. Humpbacks were the stars on our trip out of Juneau then again as we exited Tracy Arm Fjords and headed back toward Victoria for the thrills with Wild Whales. For all our our whale adventures -- from Seattle, to Juneau, to British Columbia -- we reveled in gorgeous weather and bountiful, close-up whale sightings, enhanced by expert crew curious and friendly fellow passengers from Ireland, Scotland, Italy, Germany, Japan and Brazil. We recommend whale watching on vessels large and small for eye-popping thrills. Shop around to find the vessel and tour that suits you best. You'll be happy to join the humpback's song, singing the praises of "hunting" these magnificent creatures with cameras, not weapons of destruction. BEST BET: Juneau Tours:  www.juneautours.com/contact-us/ Mesmerizing glasswork awaits at Dale Chihuly's Seattle museum. UP NEXT:  Enchanting Chihuly -- We visit the master's museum in Seattle where Dale Chihuly's "Garden and Glass"  visionary artwork is displayed.  The Northwesterner's creativity shines through in gorgeous glass exhibits both indoor and outdoors -- right next to Seattle's landmark Space Needle. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us weekends for more artful, nature-driven travel adventures.

Dolphins are almost always a companion to the San Diego Whale Watch boats. Here, they followed us for a half hour. COW, CALF PAIR FROLIC  UP THE CALIFORNIA COAST, THRILLING SD WHALE WATCHERS The thrill of seeing a cow and calf was a highlight of our whale watching trip this week. A real treat, unusual too.     STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE LUCKY San Diegans may watch the gray whale's remarkable journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- on several delightful operations out of San Diego.   The whales head to the Baja early in the year, and after giving birth and mating, they head back to Alaska to fatten up for another cycle. Sailor Keller has piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he can take photos and enjoy the sea life with San Diego Whale Watch, Flagship and Hornblower, all of which offer whale watching. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller on the whale trail about to board in San Diego Bay. HOW CAN WE CATCH  the gray whales twice? Because if we time it right, we can see them coming and going. After spending time in warm Baja California waters teaching and feeding their young to grow strong, they make the journey north again later in spring. This remarkable trip represents the longest known distance any mammal migrates on an annual basis. For this Montana girl and my San Diego born partner, it is an extraordinary spectacle. SD Whale Watch posts daily sightings for visitors. This year, we've been out a half-dozen times, exploring the 70 miles of coastline in the migration path.  We've seen whales every time -- now nearly 30 outings in the near decade I've been a grateful part-timer. San Diego Whale Watch offers a stellar whale watching experience here in Southern California. The cordial and experienced crew know exactly how to track down and share the bounty of whales and dolphins off our beautiful coast. The Hyatt Regency Mission Bay casts a pretty reflection among the boats as we set off from San Diego Whale Watch landing. This week, we treated my visiting Montana brother to a trip on the Ohana, San Diego Whale Watch's smaller boat while the larger Privateer is having work. SD Whale Watch offers whale watching year round, while the competition -- Hornblower and Flagship -- closes their schedules down after the bulk of the whales have come and gone. But as our naturalist Dani said, "There are always whales out there. We just have to find them." We were lucky this week -- sighting a gray whale cow and calf heading back north. The boat is respectful of the mother's maternal instincts to protect her baby, so a safe distance of a minimum 100 yards was kept as we viewed. The little snack bar makes a mean cuppa, and we had a spectacular day. As an incentive, if you don’t see a whale or a dolphin on your trip, you can join San Diego Whale Watch free on another tour. We've never had to collect that perk! BEST BET: Brilliant acting by a versatile quartet of gentlemen and fine direction by David Ellenstein make "Travels with My Aunt" a theater lover's must. Four talented actors perform 20-plus roles in North Coast Repertory Theatre's production of "Travels with my Aunt," extended through May 14. It features, from left, Benjamin Cole, David McBean, James Saba, Richard Baird. Photo by Aaron Rumley 'TRAVELS WITH MY AUNT': FINE PRODUCTION PROVOKES, TOUCHES THE HEART, TICKLES THE FUNNY BONE Under the gifted direction of the theater's artistic director David Ellenstein, an engaging story unfolds. We travel the world with Aunt Augusta as she lures her stodgy nephew out of his staid ways and onto a path peopled with wonderful characters.     THE FOUR actors are a delight -- changing roles, mannerisms and accents to interpret more than a dozen characters of both genders -- from a larger than life Caribbean man servant to a London cabbie, an aging lothario and long ago would-be lover. THE JOURNEY  is a global one -- from Turkey to South America.  The experience is an example of the hypnotic quality of fine theater, for the best productions take us out of ourselves, up up and away.  So it is with "Travels....." Ellenstein's deft touches and adroit sensibilities bring the nimble actors' characters to life in delightful and sometimes surprising fashion. Without a single costume change, the four transform into more than 20 characters. We revel in rich language and perfectly delivered dialects as we explore each complex relationship -- auntie and nephew and a parade of eccentrics they encounter. We sat with many Aunt Augustas at our matinee --  enhancing our viewing of a precisely rendered production. North Coast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach, north of San Diego, offers a pleasant afternoon  or evening of top quality theater.   THERE ARE NO  costume changes and no fancy set. Instead, artfully rendered photos stage right and left suggest changes of season, city and venue. The success of any production relies on a collaboration of actors, director and production crew.  "Travels with My Aunt" is pure pleasure, a light-hearted romp which playwright Graham Greene would surely acknowledge with a tip of his bowler. Cesar Manrique was a major force in Lanzarote's development. UP NEXT:    The island of Lanzarote is a delight largely because of the efforts and vision of Cesar Manrique, who shaped  innovative planning regulations on this most unique of the Canary Islands. When Manrique recognized its tourist potential and lobbied to encourage eco-friendly tourism and artfully designed buildings, he changed the island's course: no high rise hotels and beautiful small hotels in keeping with the use of traditional colors and imaginative design. Read about this inspired -- and inspiring -- man, next at  whereiscookie .com Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel approach to the arts and nature driven travel.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE CARPE DIEM KIDS Members of the acclaimed string quartet, Brooklyn Rider, performed in a formal concert to end the official Tippet Rise season, then encored for a casual concert of Beethoven in an informal setting at the venue's library. HIKERS, FRENCH HORNISTS,  bikers, bassoonists, backpacks, and million-dollar artwork converge in one of the world's most unique performing arts venues. Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail, Montana, is a haven for famous artists and musicians, offering an unusual place where the arts and nature merge. Its founders, Cathy and Peter Halstead have artfully  honored their dream that music, art, architecture and landscape could harmonize, intertwine and inspire for the benefit of humanity. In its 10th season, the center wrapped its official concert season Sept. 14 with a standing room only crowd to hear Brooklyn Rider perform Haydn and newer work. While they played, bikers and hikers enjoyed outdoor sculpture created by artists from Spain, Poland and other venues, all top ranked. in their craft.  Guests stroll from the Olivier Barn at the formal season's close, enroute to the Library to enjoy an impromptu concert by Brooklyn Rider. The acclaimed string quartet received standing ovations.  A SPRING DRAWING awards $10 tickets to the prestigious Tippet Rise season.  They are highly prized and coveted by music lovers. In small venues -- the outdoor Domo and Geode, and in the acoustically perfect Olivier Concert Barn, audiences enjoy acclaimed musicians -- soloists, quartets, ensembles. This year's season capped Sept. 14, but thanks to enterprising programming and popular demand, the season has been extended. While two of the three performance events sold out in a couple days, one is still open. Montana's award winning Shakespeare in the Schools offers its adaptation of "Richard III" Oct. 18, at 3 p.m. in the Olivier Music Barn. Registration is at: tippetrise.org Bicyclers head up the road to view sculpture while elsewhere on Tippet Rise campus, visitors stroll to enjoy a cafe lunch or if they have tickets, a concert. And for three more days, guests may enjoy hiking and biking tours to view the impressive Tippet Rise art collection of large sculptural works. The art center extended its public opening through this Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 3, 4, 5, so guests may enjoy early fall color and crisp mountain air while viewing the 20-plus sculptures including two works by Alexander Calder. Advance registration is required, and reservations are free. This Saturday's Montana Youth Symphony concert with Brahms and Beethoven works, and Sunday's Claire Chase pop-up flute concert sold out quickly after posting.  Concert goers often stroll the campus before or after a performance, here Xylem Pavilion. The Center continues to be enjoyed by guests from around the world as well as many U.S. states. We saw license plates from Vermont, Oregon, Colorado, Florida, California and New York last weekend.     Click here to register for hiking, biking tours UP NEXT: Vancouver is best enjoyed by Big Bus, and we're bus tour junkies. Come with us to explore the neighborhoods, parks and streets of one of Canada's most vibrant cities. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. We're moving 13 years of work a creating a new, exciting website, so thanks for your patience during this complicated transition.      "The Carpe Diem Kids," -- Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day on Vancouver's Big Bus.

Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller take to San Diego Bay and a Flagship dinner cruise, with spectacular views. TAKE YOUR PICK OF FLAGSHIP'S FUN, FESTIVE OUTINGS -- from whale watching to elegant dining Time to enjoy aquatic life, with a look over the ship's side. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE YOURSELF  at sea with a glass of champagne, a lovely meal, gorgeous scenery and the one you love. After a stroll on deck and a leisurely meal, he asks you to dance. It's your favorite Cole Porter tune. What could be better? Flagship Cruises has been at the entertainment business since 1915,  plying the waters of San Diego Bay and sharing the wonders of the beautiful southern California harbor and coastline.   San Diego's USS Nimitz Aircraft Carrier Museum, as viewed from Flagship. The Spirit of San Diego resembles a yacht or cruise ship, with daytime nature watches and weekend champagne brunches, and evening dinner cruises. WE RECENTLY  enjoyed a Flagship dinner cruise -- a nicely presented and tasty meal, with fabulous scenery to complement our gastronomic indulgence. We'd boarded with a celebrating family, honoring a daughter who'd just earned her doctorate.  Together, we watched the harbor fade from view as Flagship's Spirit of San Diego traversed the big bay, winding under the Coronado Bridge and into Glorietta Bay Marina with a spectacular view of the famous Hotel Del Coronado. As a bonus this summer, and into September, fans of fine dining and gorgeous views from the water may also enjoy fireworks over the bay. Flagship is offering dinner and dancing during the leisurely three-hour excursion, ending with fireworks over the bay. CALL IT GILDING  the lily -- the allure of San Diego's famous waterfront, kicked up a notch with fireworks. Dates are July 29-30, and Aug. 5, 6, 12, 13, 19, 20, 26 and 27. The fireworks-dinner combo continues through Sept. 3. A celebrating family poses for the photographer, celebrating a graduation. WE THOUGHT  of our a recent cruise ship adventure as we boarded the elegant double-decker Spirit.  We strolled the 2,700-square foot observation deck as we pulled out of the harbor, enjoying a glass of bubbly, wishing it were a week long venture, not just an evening! That night, the Flagship clientele ranged from couples enjoying a date night, to three-generations celebrating a doctoral degree, to newlyweds, a bar mitzvah party and retirement fete. All were enjoying the impressive San Diego skyline from the lush outer decks and cozy cherry wood inner rooms.  Cocktails were We left our pretty table for a stroll on deck. available at several stations and a DJ circulated, schmoozing with guests and taking musical requests for dancing. FLAGSHIP'S  impressive nine-vessel fleet includes a new yacht, the California Spirit, the Princess, for fairytale weddings, the Marietta for whale watching, the Quiet Heart, and a pair of ferries. Glorietta, a small water taxi, is also under Flagship's purview. If you're feeling like treating 52 of your favorite people, the Spirit's VIP Captain’s Salon awaits, complete with tinted windows for privacy. It seats 52 guests and offers spectacular bay views. www.flagshipsd.com/flagship UP NEXT:   It's a doggone good dog's life, when you're a canine traveling with Cookie and Keller. Nick and Nora, the couple's Yorkshire terriers,   have logged over 60,000 airline miles (no frequent flier credit, darn!) and are always a part of the couple's road trips. Tips on making travel with pups easier for you -- and your four-footed pals. Remember to explore, learn and live.  Keller takes a trip to Avalon, Catalina Islands, with Nora having a wee siesta while Cookie and Nick take photos! Tips on making pet travel both fun and relaxing.

When the grey whale "breathes," it's through his blowhole, the equivalent of a nostril, a magnificent sound and sight. SETTING SAIL IN SEARCH OF THE GREY WHALE YIELDS PLEASURES GALOR AND LESSONS ON ECOLOGY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Around the blowhole are both lice and barnacles. Neither does harm. Barnacles on the grey whale are kind of hitchhikers, using the whale for free transport while they hunt for food. Whale lice are also found on this whale, and they pick off pieces of dead skin and flesh. WHAT COULD  be more exciting than looking a grey whale in his gorgeous eye, being so close you can hear the sounds of his blow, marveling at the barnacles encrusted on his hide. Yes, if you're quiet, you can really hear the sound of his blowhole -- a mighty whosh of air expulsion. Thus the expression, "thar she blows." EACH YEAR, more than 20,000 gray whales make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey from Alaskan waters to the lagoons of Baja California, where Flagship departs daily from mid-December into April for whale watching from San Diego Bay. Scripps Aquarium naturalists enhance the experience. Keller and  Cookie on the whale trail -- this time, they spotted seven whales. the females give birth to their calves. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- on the several boats offered by Hornblower, Flagship and a couple smaller venues. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he can take photos and enjoy the spectacle.  WE CAN CATCH  the grey whales multiple times during their coming and going -- because after spending time in warm Baja California waters so their young can grow strong, they make the journey north again later in spring. This remarkable trip represents the longest known distance any mammal migrates on an annual basis and for this Montana girl and my San Diego born partner, it is an extraordinary spectacle to observe. This year, we've been out a seven times, exploring the 70 miles of coastline in the migration path.  We've seen whales every time -- now nearly 40 outings in the near decade I've been a grateful part-time San Diegan. Michael, a knowledgeable Hornblower volunteer, instructs kids on baleen, made of the same keratin as our finger nails. Gentle touching is allowed as part of the teaching. While we've observed the aquatic parade of gentle giants from land -- at the Torrey Pines Glider Port, Cabrillo National Monument, the lovely Birch Aquarium and from our favorite picnic spot in the La Jolla hills, we prefer spotting them on the water.  Then we can see the rainbow in the spray from the blow and hear them breathing.  We can even see the lice and barnacles that grip their skin for a free ride -- and we can admire the baleen which acts as a food filter as they suck in the water and its contents, straining the protein rich fish and shrimp for nutrition. WHILE HORNBLOWER  has a delightful arsenal of knowledgeable volunteers and naturalists, all the whale watching ships have articulate, passionate friends of the whale aboard. Flagship's are from Birch Aquarium. Hornblower's are from the San Diego Museum of Natural History. Flagship's Patriot also offers a high-speed chance for a thrill ride of your life We always chat with the naturalists, and learn something each time. We've delighted in our study of the greys, who usually travel alone or in pods of two or three. We've seen more -- in peak migration season -- each one about the width of a basketball court.  They always know we're nearby and don't seem to mind. They travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from about five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Playful dolphins are a bonus on a whale watch. Check out Hornblower, Flagship and San Diego Whale Watch websites if you've got company coming -- for an experience unique to San Diego:   flagshipsd.com  or   hornblower.com    You'll board either one on North Harbor Drive just south of Broadway Pier. Please don't overlook San Diego Whale Watch, which boards from "the other bay," much smaller Mission Bay near SeaWorld.   Both spirited and knowledgeable, naturalist Dani adds immensely to the pleasure and education of the day. sdwhalewatch.com . The whale experts from all three operations enhance the outings, and you'll be amazed that each venture is different from all others -- sometimes hundreds of dolphins escort the ship. Occasionally, whales are spotted just a mile or so out. Other times, particularly with the more illusive northbound whales, they might not appear until near the end of the three-hour venture. You may be able to get a close-up view of a whale. Perhaps  even a turtle.  Connecting with another species: priceless. We've NEVER  failed to see at least a couple whales whenever we go, morning or afternoon, December or April. FOOD AND DRINK  are available on all the vessels.  But the best "food" is the mental and emotional nourishment you'll enjoy. BEST BETS:  If you're a theater buff anywhere on the North American continent, head to San Diego for a fabulous array of quality productions as this lively community celebrates Theatre Week. Behold and buy tickets for  a variety of riches from comedy to tragedy and musicals: sandiegotheatreweek.com/theatre   Clifton's is downtown Los Angeles is a splendid survivor of the cafeteria age. NEXT UP : Venture down the rabbit hole when you visit Clifton's in Los Angeles. California’s lone survivor from the Golden Age of cafeterias gives new meaning to  "dining experience" with stuffed animals, a giant tree growing  through a couple floors, a “Cabinet of Curiosities” and more to celebrate California’s diverse natural and cultural legacy in a forest themed environment. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a twist on the arts, nature and travel.

A juvenile orca whale -- probably less than a year old -- was the star for passengers in Puget Sound Express. Watching an orca breach was a thrill of a lifetime this week on Chilkat. A family run enterprise shares 31 years of experience in Puget Sound Express. The "L" Pod was photographed off Victoria. Puget Sound Express shares its knowledge and love of whales in extraordinary top-rated adventures. ORCAS IN THE WILD THRILL OUR TRAVELERS, WITH HUMPBACKS APLENTY, THRILLS FROM VICTORIA TO JUNEAU STORY By CHRISTENE "COOKIE" MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I FELL IN LOVE with whales when I was a kid. I was a young musician and vocalist when I first heard that whales could sing, too.  I asked my parents for a recording of their elaborate vocalizations. Ear-popping! It changed my life -- introducing me to the lyrical language of another species. LATER, AS  A  newlywed, my late husband and I honeymooned in Maui and heard whales off the shores of Lahaina, the same year Roger and Katherine Payne's wonderful "Songs    of the Humpback Whale" came out. That 1970 album from respected musicians and "bio- acousticians"  showed the world that my revered childhood whale tunes were indeed communication: my beloved whales' complex and haunting methods of sharing joy, fear, longing and  more. Chilkat Express takes its name from the Tlingit native people of Southeastern Alaska and pays homage to the peoples' reverence for whales.   BRUCE KELLER AND I   have  followed the magical world of whales on seas, bays and oceans, and we are lucky lad and lass to follow them again in the U.S. and Canada, watching, photographing  -- and listening --with joy. Thrilling sight: three humpbacks feed, frolic in Alaska's Stephen's Passage. We were aboard a delightful Juneau Tours vessel when we found these gems. We're reveling in  early autumn whale watching out of Edmonds, Washington, finding Orcas, which are frolicking in the Straits of Juan de Fuca -- as many as 50 surrounding our Chilkat boat,   one of three vessels run by the excellent Puget Sound Express.  Three generations  of the marine-life loving Hanke family run the operation, which specializes in close-up whale encounters that leave shivers up the spine. Our trained naturalist, Justine, driver Brian and boat host Wendi took 60 of us into the Straits of Juan de Fuca,  up towards Victoria, where the orcas cavort, feed, feast on salmon and teach their young the whale ways. Our "preview" was a half-dozen humpback sightings. Each humpback has a distinctive tail or fluke, allowing Puget Sound Express to identify each and name each whale.  SINCE MY first sightings off the shores of Lahaina, I've   watched whales on several continents -- and in our wintertime backyard of San Diego.  Never have I had a wealth of sightings to compare to our day on Chilkat with the Puget Sound folks.  The crew knows every whale by name -- thrilling in itself. And for this "Cookie," it was pure bliss to meet a whale who shares my nickname. She's a revered auntie who helps raise the young.  Whales operate much like a kibbutz or my big Irish and Norwegian clan. They help one another out, share child-rearing chores, feeding and babysitting to give one another a bit of down time. SEEING THESE  magnificent creatures in the wild gives one a whole new perspective on their imperiled life. And using radio communication with fellow "spotters," moving at more than 40 miles an hour, you cover the waterfront with Puget Sound Express, which also offers three-day excursions to the San Juans with expert instruction on whale watching and wildlife viewing around Friday Harbor and Port Townsend. Our Chilkat naturalist  prepped us through Puget Sound Express for a thrilling two weeks week of whale watching. If you're staying in a Seattle hotel, Tours Northwest can book you for the Puget Sound trip and pick you up at your hotel. LATER IN THE  week, we had more whale thrills with Juneau Tours and Whale Watching. We set out in a 15-passenger smaller vessel, and  the whale revels continued (more next blog). They amped up aboard Royal Caribbean's Explorer of the Seas, as we exited the Tracy Arm Fjords and headed back toward Victoria, through a sea of playful humpbacks. Listening to the humpback's haunting song, watching them move in ice as tall as three-story buildings is bound to  thrill. Spending time with three pods of salmon-feasting Orcas on their Puget Sound kibbutz is off the charts. A well fed sea lion suns, snoozes. The sea lions are part of the "extras" on whale watches off Seattle and in Alaska.   www.orcanetwork.org   pugetsoundexpress.com   juneautoursandwhalewatching.com   UP NEXT:   Watching three generations of orcas an  listening to the humpback's haunting song --  watching them navigate around ice bergs as tall as three-story buildings -- all this alters a person forever.  There simply is not enough room in a single story to do justice to the magical, intelligent and graceful whale, and to the wildlife one sees on the whale trail. We continue our marine watch with sea lions, otters, and bears aboard Juneau Tours with 15 other passengers, then with a cast of thousands aboard Royal Caribbean's Explorer of the Seas. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us with a new post each weekend.

A gray whale breaches off San Diego's Point Loma.  The action isn't completely understood, but may be "spy hopping" to get a physical reference from the land to anchor their journey enroute to Baja to mate, give birth and care for young. GENTLE GIANTS OF THE SEA PASS BY SAN DIEGO NOW -- LISTEN FOR A THRILLING 'THAR SHE BLOWS!'     One of a variety of Flagship vessels awaits passengers for a whale watch. Happy Cookie and Keller at sea, on a successful Flagship whale watching venture this week. Several adults and a calf! A gray whale shoots to the surface to gulp tons of krill for breakfast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CALL US WHALE- watching junkies.  We answer the call whenever we're within 50 miles of a whale watching port -- anywhere in the world. But when we're watching whales in various corners of the world -- Hawaii, Mexico, New Zealand, Norway, Iceland -- we always feel a bit guilty. Why?  Because we have whales in our backyard -- beautiful migrating whales we can see from land or by boat.  We have the good fortune to follow them five or six times a year, here in southern California. We never take this wondrous opportunity for granted. NOW'S THE TIME  the great grays are heading south from the chilly Alaskan waters to either give birth, or fatten up their young and themselves in the welcoming warmth of the waters off Baja before returning to Alaska. A quintet of a larger pod of dolphin ride the bow wave of our boat as it pushes through the water in the ocean miles off Point Loma. Birch Aquarium docents explain and offer a look at tiny krill whales consume by the ton, through their baleen. Southbound gray whales usually travel in pods of two or three and each year, more than 20,000 gray whales make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey to the southern lagoons. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- often on Flagship, but also on a couple smaller venues. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he play photographer. While we've observed the aquatic parade of gentle giants from land -- at the Torrey Pines Glider Port, Cabrillo National Monument, nearby lovely Birch Aquarium and from our favorite picnic spot in the La Jolla hills, we prefer spotting them on the water. THEN WE SEE  the rainbow in the spray from the blow and hear them breathing. We can even see the barnacles that grip their skin for a free ride -- and we can admire the baleen which acts as a food filter as they suck in the water and its contents, straining the protein rich fish called crill -- a small shrimp-like critter which is the gray's main nutrition. Whale watching ships have articulate, passionate friends of the whale aboard. The spray of a gray whale creates a beautiful rainbow. A mile away, we see the  exhaled breath from a 40-foot gray whale. That's a thrill for whale watchers. Flagship's are from Birch Aquarium. THIS WEEK  we saw about 10 whales -- in peak migration season -- each one about the width of a basketball court. They know we're nearby and don't seem to mind. They travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from about five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Someone hollers "thar she blows." Flagship vessels offer wonderful whale watching as well as harbor cruises, holiday and dinner cruises, and a jet boat thrill ride aboard the Patriot.   flagshipsd.com  to book  or inquire. A group of small sailing tourist vessels await crew and  passengers on a sight-seeing tour. The hill-top city is behind. UP NEXT:  Santorini has an ancient history and a famous tram, along with volcanic sites and two major villages set atop the mountains.  As one of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea, Santorini was devastated by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century BC, forever shaping its rugged landscape. The whitewashed,  houses are distinctive landmark.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, family and the arts.