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- Catalina casino: glamorous past, glittering present - but, wait, there's no gambling!
GLITTER, GLAMOUR, ART, THEATER AND A FANTASTIC ORGAN CONCERT TO BOOT The historic Catalina Casino was built in record time and opened in 1929, a splendid, circular art deco masterpiece. Musician John Tusak, a gifted organist, plays for an hour before the movies, on Fridays and Saturday nights, at the world renowned Catalina Casino. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER DON'T EXPECT to see buxom cocktail waitresses balancing their drink trays. You won't hear the click-click-click of the roulette wheel, or hear the squeals of delight. No large-screen football, or hundreds of slot machines at play. But Santa Catalina and its historic Casino are as much a spectacle as Las Vegas. Instead of a craps table, Bing Crosby was one of many to sail to Avalon from the mainland, to fish, enjoy the casino and sing a tune or two. the auditorium's centerpiece is a magnificent three-keyboard pipe organ, brilliantly played each weekend by John Tusak, at 6:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. New films usually change Fridays for the next week's run. Check the website (below). Meaning of the word SOMETIMES spelled with a double "s" the word, cassino can mean a place where cards are played. The Catalina Casino takes its name from that original meaning of the word: a building or room used for meetings, or public amusements, for dancing, gaming, and enjoyment. Revelers gathered throughout the '30s, '40s and 1950s, and today special events, weddings and new year's celebrations are staged. The meaning is honored today, since the Catalina Casino has been the focal point of Santa Catalina Island entertainment and culture for nearly 87 years. It opened on May 29, 1929. Although its patron, chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. lived only until 1932, his son Philip continued to make the building available for grand functions, and saw that continuing generations would enjoy world famous entertainers, Broadway productions, and first-run motion pictures there. The casino's beautifully designed auditorium hosts first-run movies, vintage film festivals, and each weekend, two spectacular, free organ concerts. The movie theater, a masterpiece of art, is known for its perfect acoustics. Tusak plays all the grand, old-time movie tunes -- including Gershwin, Berlin and Joplin -- honoring the legacy of the Page Pipe Organ Company, the instrument's builder. First-run movies are shown nightly at 7:30 p.m., and Cusak entertains at 6:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, an hour before the film. Vintage film festivals are also staged from time to time. A dominating presence The lovely lobby of the Catalina Casino draws the visitor into a bygone era. DOMINATING THE Avalon landscape from its regal perch at the edge of Avalon Bay, the casino exemplifies the style and romance of Catalina Island. When Wrigley built it, the price tag was a then staggering $2 million. Its designers were internationally known architects, Sumner A. Spaulding and Walter Weber, whose completely circular building was the first of its day. It was designed in the popular art deco, Mediterranean revival style. 'Lilian's Last Dance' recalls a bygone era A massive effort a few years ago restored the building to mint condition as a reminder of Catalina’s glorious past. The height of the building is 12 stories. Inside are a museum, a main floor theater, an upstairs promenade and a 20,000 square foot ballroom which can accommodate up to 1,500 dancers. THIS ELEGANT ROOM is still the world’s largest circular ballroom without supporting pillars, enjoyed by revelers on New Year's Eve and other special times, including weddings and birthdays. The beautifully preserved ballroom recalls a romantic time, when people dressed to the nines Each seat in the auditorium has a little shelf beneath -- for the gentlemens' hats, of course! to dance within a lavish medley of rose-hued walls, beneath an arching, 50-foot ceiling. Five Tiffany-inspired chandeliers and an elevated stage grace the room with classic, raised seating areas around the dance floor. To toast the event, wander back to the vintage, full-service bar in the rear. A VISITOR'S DELIGHT VISITORS COME to gaze at the ballroom -- the lucky ones score an invitation to a celebration, or spring for the famed New Year's Eve party. The auditorium is the place to see films -- both vintage and recent releases -- and the lobby is a place to simply soak up the beauty of another era. Beautiful trees, flowers and images of the nearby sea adorn the casnio's interior. The Casino hosts Catalina’s major indoor events, including the New Year’s Eve celebration, the popular Catalina Island Jazz Festival and Catalina Film Festival. Tours of the casino are available most days if no one has booked the place. Your personal jackpot comes in knowing a gorgeous, historic piece of history has been preserved -- and you're in it! www.visitcatalinaisland.com Bison roam Catalina, a remnant of a long forgotten film for which they were photographed. But the buffalo footage was cut from the movie. UP NEXT: While we're in a "Catalina state of mind," did you know that the island is home to a herd of buffalo? And that the bison had to be put on birth control to limit their reproduction? Years ago, Hollywood brought 14 bison to the island, used them in a film (their roles were cut in the editing!) then left them. Now they're part of the lore and lure of a trip to Santa Catalina. The island of romance is also the island of roaming buffalo. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Friday afternoons for our weekend post at www.whereiscookie.com .
- Catalina Island Bison? Yes, because Hollywood put them there
This buffalo is probably happy to be on Santa Catalina, not freezing his hide off in Yellowstone Park this winter. BUFFALO SEQUENCES DIDN'T MAKE THE FILM, BUT CATALINA'S BISON ARE STARS ON THEIR CALIFORNIA ISLAND With the stunning Pacific Ocean as their backdrop, these bison roam, forage and take to the four-wheel roadways. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YEARS AGO , a Hollywood studio brought bison to Santa Catalina Island for a movie shoot. The film was an obscure western penned by Zane Grey, the colorful writer who lived on Catalina for years. It apparently didn't impress critics or the public, for it's tough to find much info about it. And the bisons' role in the 1925 silent film? Well, their "ready for my close-up moment" didn't make it to the Oscars. In fact, the bison scenes languished on the cutting room floor. And afterwards, 14 critters were left on the island, probably because they seemed content, and likely because it would have been costly to return them to the mainland, where they'd probably have a rougher life! Scrubby bush and prickly pear cactus are the habitat of the Catalina bison. So they did what bison do: they ate, slept, wandered and reproduced! TODAY, THE bison are thriving -- so much so that their numbers are kept in check by careful monitoring and birth control for fertile females. The bison are, indeed, part of the lure and lore of modern day Catalina..... They are, obviously, not native. But their charisma and ability to adapt have made them an item on the Catalina Island "visitor/must see" list for the better part of a century. The Zane Grey western, "The Vanishing American," has not a single bison in it and, according to researchers, the film terrain does not even remotely resemble Catalina. This bison is sorry he isn't in Catalina. He's in Yellowstone. WHAT IS KNOWN is that the bison herd grew over the decades, to upwards of 600. The bison now number about 150, in a program monitored by the Catalina Island Conservancy. And because the bison have become "stars" in Catalina's culture, the Conservancy has no plans to remove them from the island. The bison were to be part of a long ago Zane Grey movie. Movie critics collaborated on novel Our guide, with native American ancestry, reminded us that bison are revered by the Indian people. (He talked to the beasts, thanking them for allowing us into their home. He even called a couple of the larger ones by name.) The Conservancy has developed a bison-care partnership with the Morongo Band of Mission Indians, the Tongva. 7,000 years ago, they were Catalina's original inhabitants. Some of the bison have been located to the colder climes of South Dakota. They're living out their lives on the Great Plains, on the Lakota's Rosebud Reservation -- where temperatures are at least 50 degrees average colder this time of year. As one comes down from the buffalo area, one sees the Pacific and a beautiful vista of Catalina's Avalon harbor. OUR KPBS station featured another solution for controlling the herd's growth. In 2009, a Conservancy study determined that a herd of between 150 and 200 would be good for both the bison and the island. So the herd was given animal birth control to maintain the population at that ideal number -- around 150 animals. The goal of the birth control -- inoculation to females over two years -- is to maintain herd size. Normally, it would increase by 15% or more each calving season, so birth control keeps numbers manageable and bison healthier. That makes for less environmental damage to the land. And because the vaccine is non-hormonal, it does not harm the critters or change their social structures, according to the conservancy's education office. It is also reversible after about a year, should research determine that the island can sustain greater numbers. For now, they're at home on the Catalina range. Catalina Island's Airport in the Sky is worth the drive when you're looking for bison. Also take in the Wrigley Gardens. Coming up: We bid adieu to Santa Catalina Island with a look at other treasures you might miss on a quick visit. The Catalina Airport -- also known as The Airport in the Sky -- is a charming place where you can watch small craft taxi in and out on the top-of-the-world runway, find good Mexican cooking in the cafe, and stroll through a nicely marked garden. Also, the Wrigley Botanical Gardens and Memorial to the generous philanthropist and bubble gum magnate is worth a few hours. It is home to 37 well maintained acres of native and specialty plants, plus a memorial with sweeping ocean views. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Friday late afternoon when we post for the weekend at: www.whereiscookie.com
- Napier A small New Zealand town turns tragedy into architectural triumph
NAPIER, NEW ZEALAND OFFERS ART DECO DELIGHTS IN A TOWN THAT GREW FROM RUBBLE Napier is proud of its art deco design and buildings dating back to the 1930s after a 1931 earthquake leveled Napier. Napier goes all out for holidays and festivals. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN YOU first set eyes on the mid-sized town of Napier, New Zealand, you get a large feeling that "vintage" is in style all year. You expect to see Gatsby stroll by, in a dapper suit, with a charleston girl at his side. A classic Packard turns the corner and its driver is dressed in vintage attire. When the town's 1931 earthquake destroyed much of the city -- 7.8 on the Richer scale -- an enterprising city father supervised a rebuilding effort in quick time. Napier is tucked neatly into lovely Hawkes Bay. Behind the greenery is a beautifully preserved town built in the art deco style of the 1930s. HE EMPLOYED the fashionable architecture of the day -- Spanish Mission and Prairie -- and drew inspiration from the popular Art Deco trend, too. The "deco" style is characterized by precise and boldly delineated geometric shapes and strong colors, and that carries through in Napier's art-deco designed private homes, and big businesses such as the National Tobacco Company and Masonic Hotel. The newspaper and a theater are "deco," too -- the Daily Telegraph, and the Municipal Theatre. DURING THE year, thousands of visitors revel in the 1930s atmosphere created in the heart of the city and spreading out to homes in the suburbs. Thousands more make the city of 61,100 swell during an annual Art Deco festival in February. Lady Gaga, Tony Bennett dazzle at Planet Hollywood, click here WE LOVED the glitz and glamour of the musicians who greeted our ship, arriving in vintage autos and matching attire to play songs from the 1930s. Napier is located in Hawke's Bay on the eastern coast of the North Island. It calls itself "the Art Deco Capital of the World" and makes clever use of that moniker, promoting its annual festival with 200 events including outdoor concerts, vintage car parades, fashions shows, steam train rides, "Great Gatsby" picnics and more. This year's fest attracted 40,000 people worldwide. Businesses in Napier, above, and nearby Hastings have their art deco style of architecture preserved by government. During the fest, event attendees don period clothing, drive vintage cars, sip champagne, picnic in elaborate style, attend elegant soiree's and stroll the architecturally distinct streets that make Napier unique. The popular Masonic Hotel suggests the colors of the day, with its deco lavender, pink and soft green. Vintage autos and vintage dress greet ship passengers. The festival was a two-day event in 1989 but has grown to a week-long extravaganza celebrating an era of sophistication and reflective of the "can do" spirit that rebuilt and improved the town nearly 84 years ago. The Taieri Gorge train ride is one of New Zealand's most famous trips. NEXT UP: We've promised a train story Down Under and so we finally deliver. We cross Australia's vast expanses in a couple different fun and efficient trains, then take a gorgeous trip through New Zealand's Taieri Gorge. All aboard! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com
- Maori life unfolds as travelers enjoy New Zealand's culture, scenery
A Maori tattoo was given to Cookie for her heroism in a stick game at a New Zealand village. Tattoo for a day gives insight, even superficially, into rich life of ancient people, beliefs Famed Kiwi director Lord Peter Jackson created Hobbiton, on which his award winning films were made. Story By CHRISTENE MEYERS Photos By BRUCE KELLER WE ARE sharing a few highlights from the current adventure Down Under and in New Zealand. Yes, it's a book tour with readings and meetings with other writers, but it's a trip down the rabbit hole with visits to Peter Jackson's "Lord of the Rings" wonderland and more. Extraordinary moments have included two major bridge climbs -- Sydney Harbour and Auckland Harbour -- and an initiation into the rites of Maori life and celebration. We've been singing and chanting and receiving "ta moko," the sacred tattoos with which the people tell their stories. While our "tats" are temporary, we are permanently affected by the sincerity and customs of the people. A typical Maori greeting involves sticking out one's tongue -- boldly, with eyes bright and big. Our favorite gesture, though, is the "farewell" one: noses and foreheads touch gently. Then you wish "kia ora kia ora" or be well, be well. Cookie and Keller, victorious atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge! Our most exciting visit of several to Maori villages was to Waimaramara near Napier, where we learned the significance of the facial markings, warring clubs and fur and feather cloaks. Facial tattoos tell status, ancestry and life lessons. WHEN WE told our hosts, Denise and her cousin Robert, about our novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," they were excited because while honoring the ancient ways of their ancestors, they are connected to the modern world. Find them on Facebook, YouTube and Tripadvisor. www.waimaramamaori.com in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand. When I became an honorary Maori -- at a magical ceremony in the hills of Waimaramara.......I received ta moko. My designs represent nature and grandmothers! Yes, I stuck out my tongue and I won a music stick competition involving faster-and-faster rhythms, passing the sticks left and right, changing hands in a circle of six people. When one drops a stick, he must drop out of the circle. I was the last standing in the circle! COMING UP : More of our adventures, learning and occasional mishaps -- San Diego to Sydney and New Zealand as we explore, learn and live Wednesdays, weekends and today, as the spirit of Maori life moves-- at www.whereiscookie.com
- Hobbiton New Zealand: Down the Hobbit hole into Middle Earth's splendor
Cinema's beloved Hobbit journey began in New Zealand's picturesque forest The homes of the Hobbits are small, befitting the tiny, magical people made famous by writer J.R.R. Tolkien. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hobbiton beckons visitors to New Zealand's South Island. The new Hobbit movie is out, and here's where it was filmed. I COULD almost see Gandalf coming around the corner. Frodo is waiting for him. "A wizard is never late," Gandalf says. Nor is he early. He arrives precisely when he means to.” And so did we! We arrived in Hobbiton precisely as planned on a recent morning after leaving lovely Wellington, New Zealand, for the journey to Middle Earth. We'd driven along New Zealand's gorgeous south coast whre Frodo and Sam reached the Gate of Mordor in the beloved J.R.R. Tolkein "Lord of the Rings" books. Now that the recent Hobbit movie is out ("The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies," opened in theaters Dec.17) we'd like to take you to where the movie version started. Tourists, including Cookie and Keller, stroll through the pristine and well maintained grounds of the Alexander farm in New Zealand, where Sir Peter Jackson filmed the "Hobbit" movies, including the current release. WALK WITH US through a beautiful forest into a world of movie magic. Tiny houses, built into the hillside, well tended gardens and picket fences adorn the lovely acreage of Hobbiton, near Matamata, N.Z., about an hour's drive from Wellington. Enter The Shire, with many a hobbit hole, and you'll be mesmerized by Middle Earth's ethereal splendors. Director Sir Peter Jackson spied the "Lord of the Rings" location from his private airplane in 1998, when he was scouting locations for his adaptation of the classic 1937 Tolkien works. Lord Peter Jackson made many friends during his filming of the "Hobbit" movies. JACKSON is known as a nice guy, easy to work with, amiable, friendly to all, considerate and well mannered. He is respected for his tender care of the environment, and his desire to make things look real and natural. He hired gardeners and landscapers, who continue to keep Hobbiton lovely, right down to the vegetable and flower gardens which are tended and pruned daily. "We get to eat the produce," our guide told us. "It's all organically grown and very delicious!" Bruce Keller finds himself invited to tea in a Hobbit home. COMING UP : Find out how Kiwi born, Oscar-winning director Peter Jackson enticed the farm family named Alexander to give him the rights to film on their pristine land. (Hint: he sweetened the pot with a three-month paid vacation.) He had to finesse the project, though, since he would be using earth movers to create a road, and building a huge set. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com Jump to Cookie's Web site about Lilian and Theatre COMING UP: The Maori people of New Zealand have their own magic -- in music, stories, weapons, dance and their intricate tattoos. Come with us to two Maori villages, where Cookie gets a tat and we sing, play games and touch noses and foreheads with the school children. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com
- Palm Springs must see delights: where the rich and famous escaped Hollywood
The Elvis Presley home in Palm Springs is a major attraction and a striking presence, with its unusual modern design. DESERT RATS: TAKE THE STARS TOUR, SEE WHERE THEY LIVED AND PLAYED IN PALM SPRINGS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Palm Springs and its star-studded list of residents came about because the studios wanted to keep stars close to L.A. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE STARS come out in Palm Springs. Or at least star-gazers do. Many of the greats who once luxuriated in the desert sun are gone to that big movie palace in the sky, but there are still some around this ever popular hide-away of the rich and famous. The stars settled here because studios insisted contracted personnel be within two hours from Hollywood -- not as far as "Sin City," Las Vegas. Palm Springs must see delights: Many of Palm Springs' current residents and visitors were barely born when Frank Sinatra, known as "the Chairman of the Board," caroused with Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin. John F. Kennedy visited Palm Springs to see Marilyn Monroe, who lived in a sweet little bungalow at 1326 Rose Avenue. Loretta Young entertained here. Bob Hope golfed here. Find out which star owned this Palm Springs home when you take a lively tour with guide Jeffrey Swanson. "The King," Elvis Presley, leased and later purchased a striking contemporary home here, honeymooning with Priscilla in 1967 after a secret wedding in Las Vegas. After ups and downs with listings -- from $9.5 million in 2014 to $5.9, to less than $1 million, the home is currently valued at a surprising $750,000. Keep in mind that July in Palm Springs can be 110 degrees! It is not a year-round comfort zone, but gorgeous on our recent spring visit. Designed by prolific modern architect William Krisel, the Elvis house was built for Robert Alexander of Alexander Construction Company, which assembled thousands of Southern California homes in the 1950s and ’60s, defining the architectural style of Palm Springs. The Double Tree by Hilton Golf Resort Palm Springs is a luxurious base for touring this beautiful resort town. Fabulous landscaping, great food. THE ELVIS HOME is a five-bedroom, 5,000-square feet spectacle, built in four intersecting pod-like wings. The unusual house where The King held court was named "House of Tomorrow" by Look Magazine in 1962. Pool and tennis court included, of course. During our Palm Springs must see delights tour we discovered Palm Springs on an entertaining near 3-hour tour with a brilliant guide, Jeffrey Swanson. He's lived in Palm Springs most of his life, and knows the stars' homes and the stories that bring them to life. He described "Hollywood's Playground" with anecdotes and lively history, including bits about Marilyn, Elvis, Nat King Cole, Liberace and the Rat Pack, Cary Grant, Jack Benny and more. Jeffrey Swanson is a font of Palm Springs knowledge and lore, a terrific tour guide. His user-friendly commentary offered insights into plants, climate, architecture, eateries and the region's history, including its Native American heritage. We ended the engaging day with a date milkshake at Windmill Market. THE MOST famous contemporary star owning Palm Twin Palms, Frank Sinatra's Palm Springs home. Springs property today is Leonardo DiCaprio, who bought singer/actress Dinah Shore's former home at 432 Hermosa. It's an elegant but not over-the-top place designed by famed architect Donald Wexler with Shore's help in 1964. A gigantic statue of Marilyn Monroe, "Forever Marilyn," was in Palm Springs for many years and has toured Chicago and other U.S. cities. For a thrilling bird's eye view, take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, 8,500 feet above the town. Hike, shop, explore and dine in the Forest View Room. The Sinatra house, "Twin Palms," is a pretty mid-century modern house where "the Chairman" lived from 1947 to 1954. Liberace designed his two Palm Springs homes in musical motif. Swanson showed us both, along with those owned by Alan Ladd, George Montgomery and the famous Gabor sisters, Eva and Zsa Zsa. You can find the homes yourself, but we recommend the delightful Viator tour for its ease and entertainment. Swanson's love of the place shines through. And don't forget the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, to give you a bird's eye view of the whole extravaganza. Dean Martin's home is a laid-back ranch style place propped against the hillside with welcoming palm trees. viator.com/tours/Palm-Springs/Palm-Springs-Celebrity-Grand-Tour pstramway.com/ PalmSpringsCelebrityTours.com UP NEXT: Ice cream, we all scream! Who doesn't like ice cream, so why not venture into the Sprinkles Pool with us at the San Francisco Museum of Ice Cream We took our favorite photo subjects to The Museum of Ice Cream in San Francisco. The concept began in New York City as an interactive art exhibit with ice cream and candy themed exhibits, all brightly colored, in a maze of rooms containing a rock-candy cave, a unicorn, soda fountain and a swimming pool of rainbow sprinkles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday. Peny Ganner and her brother, James, swoon in childlike wonder during an afternoon of indulgence at the Museum of Ice Cream.
- Fort Lauderdale - Finding fun in fantastic Fort Lauderdale, from fine digs to water taxi
Fort Lauderdale's beautifully renovated Hilton Double Tree Gallery One offers all-suite accommodations, gorgeous views of the city's famous waterways, a handsomely designed patio for relaxing and dining, fine contemporary artwork and easy access to the city's famed Water Taxi service which makes a regular stop here. Here's the view from our suite. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER On a recent sunny day, Fort Lauderdale's popular Water Taxis were enjoyed by an international group of tourists happy for this leisurely way to get around. FORT LAUDERDALE is a city of pleasant surprises. It has invented itself through the years to become an internationally popular destination for relaxing and enjoying water life. It has also developed into a world-class shopping paradise, with fine theater, galleries and museums. And just down the road, the Everglades beckon! We love the city's fun water taxi service, which gets one around to museums, parks, shopping and beach. Highly recommended. Variety is the spice of Fort Lauderdale's allure. We saw a "Hamilton" touring show one night, and listened to a country band the next. Cuban food for one tasty dinner and fine grilled fish at our hotel another evening. The water taxi is wonderful; we didn't have to rent a car. The Bonnet House is near Gallery One, a unique historic home named after a lily with a fascinating history and manatees. It's fun to watch the bridges go up and down in Fort Lauderdale. Broward County boasts a series of unusual bridges. THE HOTELS and eateries are as unique and varied as are the millionaires' homes dotting the canals and waterways. We based at DoubleTree by Hilton's attractive Gallery One hotel. The newly renovated property is beautifully designed with pretty public spaces and roomy suites. It boasts attentive, cordial service from check-in to farewell, and its inviting digs include a cozy bar, top restaurant and happy hour specials. An eye-popping collection of jazzy contemporary art hangs in both the suites and the public areas. The welcoming Vue restaurant offers delicious seafood, excellent room service and a platform to showcase regional artists. (Bravo for this inventive idea, Gallery One. Let's hope it catches on worldwide.) No matter how often we fly in to Lauderdale to set sail, we sing the praises of this exciting yet relaxing town. Where else can you gaze at the water from the 20th floor of a top hotel and in five minutes be on the very water taxi you admired from your balcony? FORT LAUDERDALE is ever changing. We saw cranes and new construction all along the canals, except in the most exclusive areas where old money and strict zoning laws have kept things much as they were when the sleepy little town's population numbered around 25,000. Now nearly Enjoy a leisurely ride on the water past homes where stars once lived. You might find your dream house. 200,000 people live here. Named for a war fortification built in the 1880s, Fort Lauderdale is only a half-hour from bustling Miami, but we prefer a few calming days here in Fort Lauderdale, as we explore the Caribbean, Panama Canal and Central America. We feel "low key" here, yet with "big city" amenities. Light and water are two of the draws of Fort Lauderdale, where millions are spent on yachts and mansions yet the city remains pleasantly accessible. Because we spend a lot of time in our room -- taking photographs, reading, planning our day, writing on deadline -- we insist on a room with a view. Gallery One delivered in spades. Because of its unique structure, with many corners and angles facing the waterways, there are beautiful views from many vantage points. You can contemplate the city's history as you watch the water life below. Many stars and sports figures keep yachts here. Stephen Speilberg's was anchored near our hotel. If you're flush, you can rent it for $1 million a month. But in ages past, the simple kayak was the mode of transportation. THREE THOUSAND years ago, the Tequesta Indians fished the winding intracoastal waterways of Fort Lauderdale, enjoying the beauty of the waterlilies and living off the bounty of the agricultural land the waters nourished. They glided on kayaks past flamingos and peacocks, tangling with and harvesting the crocodile for their meals. New construction is everywhere in Fort Lauderdale, and you can take it all in from the Water Taxi. They likely enjoyed the friendly presence of the manatee, who still gives birth in the waters that are now part of Fort Lauderdale. We saw two in the waters at the historic Bonnet House. Famous people have come and gone from the city. Dozens of movies and TV shows have been filmed here, including many of the episodes of "Miami Vice" and "The Golden Girls." Mayberry's Andy Griffith loved Fort Lauderdale and lived here many years. Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz had a home here and liked to take their small boat out on the canals, enjoying a cocktail or two at sunset. doubletree3.hilton.com watertaxi.com 954 467-6677; info@watertaxi.com An alligator takes a leisurely swim across the waters of the Everglades. Day tours are easy to arrange. UP NEXT: Look in front of the greenery, a bit left of center. What do you see? Might it be an alligator? Yes, it is, so climb aboard a jet boat with us and venture into the heart of the "river of grass" for an exciting Everglades airboat ride. We'll depart from Fort Lauderdale to the famous Everglades to show you some of Florida’s exotic wildlife with its miles of gorgeous wetlands. We'll get close up with an alligator while we learn about the beautiful habitat. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends for a fresh look at travel, nature and the arts.
- Patrick Cosgriffe: Death of beloved brother spawns outpouring of grief, love, generosity
The love of father for daughter is expressed in this photo of Christena Lynn Cosgriffe, taken on her second birthday. Christena, born with Down Syndrome, kept Patrick going until last week. LOVE, LOSS, LOYALTY, FAITH, FAMILY AND HOPES FOR A HANDICAPPED CHILD By CHRISTENE MEYERS Six Cosgriffe siblings, 11 years ago, with Patrick center in black "Clay Day" t-shirt and shamrock hat. From left, Rick, Olivia, Misha Kelly, Christene (Cookie), Patrick and Robbie, youngest sibling, who died in 2010. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE LAST phone visit I had with my brother Patrick was a philosophical one. Perhaps he sensed the end was near -- but I had no inkling. He'd survived 14 surgeries and many hospitalizations, ambulance rides to the ER and long stays in physical rehab. His stamina surprised surgeons and his humor charmed nurses. He'd conquered drugs and alcohol addictions, accidents, falls, the loss of his spleen, hernias, back and more. Despite tremendous odds, he'd always returned home to his beloved daughter, his only child, Christena. OUR GOOD fortune ended Feb. 5, when he was removed from life support after a hopeless decline. Christena, now 11, believes her daddy is in heaven but asks, "when is he coming back?" Born with Down Syndrome, she survived several surgeries while still a baby. Patrick Cosgriffe obituary From left, a few Christmastimes ago: Christene (Cookie), Patrick, Misha, Rick and Olivia at Tate House, Georgia. Last week, with Patrick feeling chest congestion, and several friends and family with COVID, he was awaiting results of a home test for the virus that killed him. DEEPLY RELIGIOUS , he teased me for my agnostic leanings. I thought he should be hospitalized, but he was holding out -- likely fearful of what might unfold. "I think you should get to the ER," I urged. "Meanwhile, you'd better talk to your boy," He coughed and wheezed. "Cookie, he's your boy, too," he said earnestly. I hope so. I know the old saw -- "there are no atheists in a fox hole," suggesting fear encourages belief in a higher power. I'm no atheist, perhaps a skeptic, but I hope there is a hereafter -- for us humans and our "Rainbow Bridge" animal pals. My college minor was philosophy so like many of us, I've read Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Epicurus, Zhuangzi and scores of modern thinkers. If there is a heaven, Patrick belongs there. When he was found not breathing, it was too late for the ER and after a few days in the ICU, an MRI revealed what we feared: no brain activity. After consultations with the doctors, we made the decision every family dreads. Patrick Cosgriffe, left, and Bruce Keller, enjoying fishing on the West Fork near Nye, Montana. PATRICK WAS devoted to his buddies at Alcoholics Anonymous, and struggled to attend meetings, even in a wheelchair or with a walker. After the resurgence of COVID, he attended AA via Skype. His friend and sponsor, Vince, came to his home to watch football with him. In healthier days, he fished the Stillwater, Yellowstone, Musselshell, West Fork, and a pond in Wheatland County at our cousins' ranch. He inherited my first husband Bruce's antique Gibson guitar, which he played beautifully. He was a wise and wonderful brother with a lilting laugh and teasing wit, a cherished member of the large and loving clan, a devoted father to Christena. "I want to see the kid to 20," he'd say. "Then I'll be 70 and we'll go out together." CHRISTENA IS sad, too -- we aren't sure exactly what's going on in her young head. But she'll continue to be surrounded by love -- from her aunties, uncle, cousins, friends, school mates and "mama Diane," Patrick's partner and fiancée. Although Diane has grown children and grandchildren of her own, she adores Christena and has been her sole mother figure for the past nearly six years. She loves Christena, "as if she were my own flesh and blood." Fresh from a run through the sprinkler, Christena is happy in the mountains near the West Fork of the Stillwater River. This happy child likely faces more surgeries, and has already survived five for heart and lung defects. Her immune system is compromised and she bounces back from consistent painful treatments for ear problems -- narrow canals are common in DS children, causing pain and infections which she braves with grace. She knows the lyrics to "Frozen," loves to sing and dance. She dresses up for Halloween and loves holidays and celebrations. Her Christmas gift from us was a pair of tickets to "Shen Yun," with her "mama" Diane. "I could hardly keep her from climbing up on the stage," Diane said. "She was mesmerized." When she comes to our place on the West Fork of the Stillwater, she loves to help me feed the birds then run through the sprinkler, roll in the grass, play with our ancient Yorkie, Nicky. "May I help you?" is her frequent question, as she reaches for a broom or stacks plates from the dishwasher. Christena and "Auntie Jane" dress up for Halloween. She delights our large, theatrical family with her own sense of fun and drama . WHEN PATRICK died, my sister Olivia and his partner Diane were in the room with him. Niece, nephew, cousins cried in the waiting room. The tubes were disconnected, the heart slowed, he took a last long breath. Good night, sweet prince. I used his hospitalization time to do what I do best: write, co-ordinate, make calls, consult the attorney to make sure the codicil to Patrick's will is followed: that guardianship of his beautiful daughter goes to Diane -- loving, devoted partner who helped nurse him through many battles. We've organized a fundraiser and generous donors who love the child and her papa are responding. (See link below). Huge expenses are the least of our worries. We are heartbroken. Still, we remember it takes a village to raise a child, and we have one. We will continue to nurture Christena, fight for Diane's permanent guardianship, and in so doing honor our brother's memory and his love for her -- and us. Rest in peace, dear Patrick. May "your boy" watch over you, take care of you and save a place for the rest of us. This stunning big horn sheep stands sentinel atop a rock above a pool at Hilton Waikoloa Village, near Makai, one of the beautiful hotels. UP NEXT: A wondrous collection of art awaits and one doesn't need to buy a ticket to a museum. A visit to the renowned Hilton Waikoloa Village offers a world class collection of art from the South Pacific. Sculpture, paintings, ceramic and more celebrate the genius of master craftsmen and artists from Asian, Western, and Oceanic cultures – with more than 1,800 pieces. We enjoyed our immersion in the heritage, culture and traditions of the many and varied South Pacific people, gaining insight into life in the Pacific. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a new twist on art, music, history, travel, culture, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Key West legends: Hemingway, Truman shared love of a unique place
President Harry Truman spent happy, relaxing times during his tenure, establishing a southern White House in Key West, and hosting cabinet members and many dignitaries for poker and fishing. Guides tell colorful Hemingway stories at the Key West home where he lived 11 years, from 1931. HOMESWEET HOME: FAMED WRITER, U.S. CHIEF LIVED IN KEY WEST, SHARED A LOVE OF LAID-BACK FLORIDA TOWN President Harry Truman's "Little White House" offered him a warm, relaxing break from the tensions of public office . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Key West legends THE PRESIDENT who ended World War II and the writer who ran with the bulls in Pamplona loved Key West, Florida. Neither could claim to be a "conch" (native son) -- but each fished the waters and relaxed in the town. Both men established homes in this laid-back berg, spending treasured days there. Harry Truman escaped Washington D.C.'s cruel winters, spending 11 extended stays during his Presidency,1946-1952. Beginning in 1931, Ernest Hemingway spent a half-dozen years in Key West. Both men are remembered in museums centered in the homes they lovingly furnished. The Hemingway House in Key West is a lovely Spanish Colonial home, beautifully maintained . TRUMAN HELD card games, planned fishing trips and hosted foreign dignitaries. His Presidential limo is parked outside. Hemingway staged lavish soirees and designed a special cemetery for his famous six-toed cats, offspring of a captain's gift. Both men's homes and gardens are meticulously maintained as museums and visitor attractions with well informed, story-telling guides. On Hemingway's upstairs bed, one of 50 cats naps. Each one is carefully chosen from offspring of the author's famous six-toed cats. LAID BACK Key West has a bohemian feel, much as it did in the days Truman and Hemingway fell in love with the place. It continues to attract an assortment of eccentrics, sun seekers and tourists -- with a loyal "local" clientele who proudly call themselves conchs -- that is, proud people born in Key West. The range of admirers includes dozens of writers, politicians, actors and five presidents besides Truman. According to our volunteer guide, a retired history professor, Truman found Key West Two of the mostly spayed and neutered felines in the garden . to be a sanctuary -- a welcome respite from the pressures and tensions of life in the U.S. Capitol. He lovingly created his fascinating Florida White House. Hemingway tributes, friends, ex-wives, hunting expeditions, cats are celebrated. ACCLAIMED WRITER Ernest Hemingway was equally captivated, purchasing a lavish home -- mostly with his wife's money -- entertaining fellow writers and artists. It, too, is now a fine museum. The Hemingway House, across from the Key West Lighthouse is on the far southern coast of the island. THE HEMINGWAY house has an open, airy feeling, with plenty of natural light and a compact study up the stairs in a separate building, where the author spent long hours writing. Among the memorabilia are sculptures, trophies of his hunting expeditions, drawings and photos of wildlife and family portraits. One wall brings chuckles. On it hangs a four-part collage of the author's quartet of wives: Hadley Richardson, Pauline Pfeiffer, Martha Gellhorn and Mary Hemingway, his last wife, with him until his suicide in 1961. Hemingway is in the center. President Harry Truman loved Key West and kept a selection of short-sleeved tropical weather shirts in his closet. It was during the "Pauline years" -- 1927 to 1940 -- that Hemingway lived in Key West, and it was through her uncle Gus that the house came to the couple. According to our lively guide, the couple spent happy years raising their boys and socializing before he left her for his third wife, Martha, originally a friend of Pauline's. The lovely pink and coral hues of the protected conch. Florida restaurants serve conch harvested in other parts of the Caribbean. TRUMAN'S TENURE came when his doctor recommended a warm place to rest during his 19th month as President. He returned each November and December, February and March for the next seven years, relaxing on the wrap-around enclosed porch, playing cards, strolling the town and escaping secret service guards to have coffee and shoot the breeze at a beloved restaurant, Pepe's Cafe. Conch fritters -- enjoyed by both Truman and Hemingway -- are a popular item but the seafood is from outside Florida waters. (In Florida, conch is protected.) Reportedly, he loved seafood in particular conch fritters. Hemingway's fondness for seafood is well documented, too. He particularly liked to eat fish he'd caught. Truman hosted many fishing trips for Cabinet members and other politicians, who stayed in guestrooms of the 1890 building, once officers' quarters on the town's submarine base naval station. SO MUCH about Key West captivates the imagination. Thousands of people have felt the allure and magic of this southern most point on the continental United States. MORE INFO: www.fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.org/ www.hemingwayhome.com/ Footnote about "conch" as applied to people: Mayor Dennis Wardlow, in a statement of protest and secession, declared the independence of Key West on April 23, 1982. The Mayor was designated the Prime Minister and the territory was given the name Conch Republic, with local citizens called Conchs. The Conch Republic was declared in 1982 during a tongue-in-cheek secession from the United States. "The Conch Republic" tongue-in-cheek moniker has been maintained as a tourism booster. One is not a conch (pronounced "conk," like "conk your head") simply by living in Key West. You must be born there. If you've lived seven years, you're considered a "freshwater conch" a la Hemingway. The conch is a large sea snail living in the depths of the Gulf of Mexico. The beautiful, coral-colored critters were almost extinct and are now protected, with heavy fines for taking a shell with the living creature within. So while the former President was a visitor only-- albeit for long stays -- he didn't actually live there full time. The famed author, on the other hand, did, and thus his ranking as a "freshwater conch." Mahi mahi is part of a Cuban inspired food tour in Key West, featuring five small-plate delicacies and a walking tour of the town's historic district. UP NEXT : No, not conch, but tasty mahi mahi in photo at right, served with a Carribean-style rice side dish and mango salsa during our foodie walking tour in Key West, Florida. We sampled conch fritters (photo above) along with other popular bites on this Cuban inspired tasting tour. We sampled five small plates, including a shredded, roast pork deliciously spicy and served with freshly baked, slightly sweet Cuban bread and barbecue sauce. We cap our walking tour and feast with key lime pie, made famous in the Florida Keys. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for fresh spins on the arts, travel, nature, family and more. food: www.whereiscookie.com
- Joy in Holidays abroad: Let yourself go, invent, try something new
When in Tuscany one Christmas, we took a vineyards and wine making tour. These lovely casks are in a Greve winery. A Cuban Christmas before President Trump curtailed U.S. relations. Dinner was a delicious mojo pork. WHEN IN ROME, DINE WITH THE LOCALS; CELEBRATE HOLIDAYS WITH SOMETHING DIFFERENT (give turkey, ham the bird and try duck) Keller and Cookie dine in Cuban Restaurant in Phenioux STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Turkish appetizers. a mezze party platter, made a lovely holiday meal in Istanbul. ALTHOUGH WE ARE seldom in the United States for the holidays, we always celebrate -- sometimes with paella and sticky pudding, maybe borscht and bagels, rijsttafel and raisin pie. Paella is served for special occasions, and whenever friends gather in Spain. This one featured crab, chicken breasts, mussels, shrimp, ham and calamari rings served with rice. Although we plan our basic trips and destinations years in advance, once we arrive, we're spontaneous diners, up for anything. WE ASK THE locals, consult the hotel concierge, see what people like, where they dine on "our" holiday. Some of our best culinary adventures happen by the seat of the pants. Christmas and Hanukkah "on the road" meals are no different. When in Rome, Spain, Greece, Israel, or Argentina, you can be sure it's a holiday -- somewhere, even if Christianity is in minority. If you're outside the country, on a ship or in a hotel with a group of Americans, there will be a gathering staged to celebrate the holiday with traditional fare. Many places worldwide celebrate their own versions of Christmas, while only a few countries joined our Thanksgiving celebration: Canada, Germany, Grenada, Japan and Norfolk Island and China. More and more Chinese are celebrating Thanksgiving -- to express thankfulness to those who have enriched their lives and even though there are few Christians in China, it's becoming a popular holiday there. Everyone knows Santa, known as " Sheng dan lao ren" or Old Christmas Man. People give apples on Christmas Eve, called "Ping'an Ye" meaning peaceful evening, translated from the carol 'Silent Night'. Desserts in northern Spain. Have paella in Barcelona and drive north to San Sebastian for apple tart and bar cookies. IN CUBA, CHRISTMAS is a big feasting and family day. In Havana, the day is not complete without a good mojo pork, similar to our pulled pork with spices, lime and orange. That made an early, memorable holiday for us, before relationships were severed, sadly, by President Trump. Another tasty holiday meal was a gorgeous paella cooked by friends in Madrid. We continued the feasting fest the next day with a dessert orgy in San Sebastian. Potato latkes with sour cream and apples usher in Hanukkah in Haifa. Friends served fabulous potato latkes once for a Hanukkah meal in Shaker Heights, Ohio. Complete with the requisite applesauce and sour cream, of course. 'Eating Europe' fun food tours, click here IN TURKEY, we found duck. Istanbul’s vibrant expat American community keeps holiday traditions alive. Tourist-savvy Turks advertised a feast at our Hilton's Bosphorus Terrace Restaurant. While it was not promoted as holiday fare, turkey, mince meat, ham and pumpkin were are on the buffet line, and we were invited to a table reserved by other Americans. We chose the Turkish cuisine, that wonderful fusion of Central Asian, Middle Eastern, Eastern European and Balkan favorites. We enjoyed mussels stuffed with rice, nuts, and raisins. stuffed vine leaves and squash flowers, purslane with yogurt and garlic, roast lamb and meatballs. Cheese and red wine began a memorable French Thanksgiving meal for us in Provence. AS WE STROLLED to work off the meal, we smelled the intoxicating aromas of Cantonese and Szechwan cooking. Following our noses to the nearby Dragon Restaurant in the same complex, we found classic Chinese fare being enjoyed by French, Moroccan, Italian and Australian diners. We peeked in the Dragon Restaurant as the chef was serving this beautifully sliced duck -- in Istanbul. We dined on a festive holiday cheese plate in France, making a meal of those fabulous bleus, bries and munsters. The French love their cheeses and offered many different types, from camembert to roquefort and boursine that we scarcely had room for the creme brule. Happy Christmas and Hanukkah it was. Dutch meal anytime treat, click here Steak and lamb in meat-loving Argentina make a Christmas meal we thoroughly enjoyed. THE PEOPLE of Buenos Aires don’t need an excuse to party. But Christmas gives them one, in the city's major restaurants and hotels. The biggest celebration is at Kansas Grill and Bar in upscale San Isidro. As the name implies, the food is inspired by high-end American steakhouses. Our holiday meal lived up to expectations, artfully served by a tango dancer on break. We had steak and lamb, not turkey or ham, and wonderful pie -- pecan, not mince or pumpkin. Ole! UP NEXT: New Year's traditions and celebrations around the world are as varied as the people of the many lands where a bridge might be wrapped in a bow and food rules. We take you to a few favorite spots where we've ushered in the new year -- from Singapore with its magical lights and gardens, to Bora Bora and Fiji, where Santa arrives in a kayak, to Times Square, soon to "drop the ball." Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more. whereiscookie.com
- Dalí Museums Spain Itinerary: A Surreal Road Trip Through Figueres, Portlligat, and Púbol
The largest of the "Dali Triangle" museums in Catalonia is in Figueres, crowned with enormous eggs. The Dali Theatre-Museum is a magnificent, over-the-top creation designed by Salvador Dali himself. He supervised construction upon the remains of the former Figueres Theatre of his childhood. It is one of three museums operated by the Dali Foundation, all worthy of visits. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the Gala Dali Castle in Pubol, a place of exuberant creativity nd financed by Dali and given to his wife Gala, for her entertainment and liasons. Salvador Dali supervised the "redo" of the former Figueres theatre, where he showed his early work. The stairway of Dali Theatre-Museum is one of many eye-catching features including this huge face, probably Gala. HELLO, DALI! SPANISH ARTIST CREATED UNIQUE BODY OF ART Flamboyant maestro of dreams and delusions created a "Dali Triangle" of three unique museums in Catalonia, Spain STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Planning the ultimate Dalí museums Spain itinerary means diving into the surreal world of Salvador Dalí -- from his flamboyant hometown museum in Figueres to the coastal retreat of Salvador Dalí House-Museum and the romantic "kinky castle" at Gala's home, purchased by the artist for his sexually driven wife to entertain her paramours. A polar bear greets visitors to the Gala and Dali house in Portlligat, Cadaques. It is one of many bizarre and intriguing features of the home. IT WAS a dizzying three days in "Dali Triangle," a trio of museums in Catalonia devoted to the art of Salvador Dali. His works are controlled by the Dalí Foundation which operates three very different museums in Figueres, Púbol and Portlligat in Cadaqués. We joined 1.5 million people who make a pilgrimage each year to the three points of the "triangle." Elegant interior of Gala's bedroom in the Portlligat home, featuring twin beds with vibrant drapes, vintage furnishings, and a unique arched architectural detail. Dali needed written permission to visit there. Each of the 3 museums is unique, worthy of a visit. To craft your Dalí Museums Spain Itinerary, it's best to savor them on separate days, to spread the wonder -- giving each museum its own "breathing room" and devoting time to each place. They deserve the attention and you will need the time to sort, digest and ponder this maestro of dreams and delusion. WE HAD visited the Dali Theatre-Museum twice before and years apart since it was inaugurated 50 years ago in 1974. We decided to revisit the unique museum as it entered its second half- century of entertaining a worldwide audience. We needed the grounding and reminder of his scope. Dali's exquisite jewel artworks: dazzling gold, precious stones. Many were gifts to Gala. THE MUSEUM in Figueres is a culmination of the eccentric surrealist's life work, conceived and designed by Dali, who visited daily to supervise. The place is as intriguing and mysterious as Dali. Its broad range of work begins with his earliest artistic experiences and follows into his final years. An homage to the sultry star Mae West has its own room. In Figueres, Mae West has her own gallery. In other galleries, Dali's detailed landscapes need a magnifying glass to fully appreciate his immaculate tiny brushstrokes. On close inspection, one finds intricate trees, people and objects that might go unnoticed. Our guide borrowed a fellow tourist's phone to show the detail of a postage-stamp-sized detail: an entire cityscape emerged to our "oohs and aahs." There are dozens of drawings, too, and if you aren't sufficiently dazzled, the Dali-Jewels gallery near the building's exit will push you over the top: 41 exquisite gold and stone jewels. THE TWO less visited museums are a Medieval castle in Pubol, which Dali bought for his wife, muse and equally eccentric Gala, and the Salvador Dali House-Museum, the most personal of the three. Dali's castle gift for Gala came with strings attached -- not by him, but by her. It is in the municipality of Cadaques, in a village on the bay known as Portlligat. (Sometimes spelled as two words, usually as a single word.) D ali and Gala (center) entertained the Walt Disneys and others. FANS OF Dali will find each place offers fascinating detail with insights into the life of the man who lived from 1904 to 1989. He was named after a dead brother and raised by a tyrannical father which naturally shaped him and influenced his art. He studied in Madrid and in 1929, he met Gala, Russian wife of a surrealist poet, Paul Éluard. She became Dali's muse and partner and they moved into a small house in Portlligat in 1930. They expanded it as they purchased nearby fishermen's huts. In 1969, Dali began converting the 12th Century castle in Púbol into '"Gala's Castle" collecting textiles, antiques and murals to create a splendid setting where Gala reigned. Designed as a gift to Gala, the castle became her private home for entertaining. Dalí could visit only with Gala's written permission. The approach to Dali's Portlligat home gives a feeling of the peace that the artist felt there. THE HOME on the port is our favorite -- the complex of transformed fisherman's huts is a maze of eccentric adornments -- a stuffed bear, a mirror that seizes morning light, dozens of personal effects. From his bedroom Dali could see the coast. He built a beautiful terrace, put his spin on a Greek statue and decorated his swimming pool. Dali chose the bay for his home. He spent his last years there after his wife, Gala, died. You've likely heard of the world famous Salvador Dalí Theatre Museum in Figueres but not many outside of Spain know about Dalí ’s house in Portlligat or his wife’s castle in Pubol, often called "the Kinky Castle" because Gala entertained her young lovers there. Some believe Dali encouraged and watched her liasons with voyeuristic enthusiasm. Dali's "The Persistence of Time," his most famous work. Dali was a master of self promotion and Gala was an expert at getting the best prices for his artwork. GALA DIED in 1982 and was buried on the Castle's grounds. Then Dalí remained in Port Lligat, establishing his final studio. In our three days, we came to know Dali better. He was flamboyant -- he wore sweeping capes and grew his signature mustache early in his career. He was sensitive, felt things deeply and reacted with passion to slights. But the visionary artist strayed from the avant-garde, eventually alienating comrades through his outspoken support for Franco and his idiosyncratic flair. His prodigious creativity cannot be denied for it spawned paintings, sculpture, fashion, advertisements, books and film. His ending was sad: he was badly burned in a fire and spent his final years wheelchair bound. More information on tickets and booking. Reservations are required: www.salvador-dali.org ; reserves@fundaciodali.org Antoni Gaudi's Guell Park is full of magical creations. Come along to visit one of Barcelona's beloved attractions. ON TAP: We're in an "art state of mind," visiting both nature's creations and some of the world's greatest museums in Spain, England, the Caribbean and in the U.S. Coming in the next weeks are pieces on Antoni Gaudi's magical Guell Park in Barcelona, the caves of Barbados and Bermuda, a beautiful crater in Ponta Delgada and the masterpieces within the fabulous Museum of Modern Art in New York City. We're mingling with famous artist creations, paintings and painters as we head to the real west and a Montana museum celebrating the work of cowboy artist Charles Russell. Meanwhile, keep on the sunny side, visit a museum, treat a friend or relative to an art gallery stroll and remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, art, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Sofiero Palace and Gardens in Helsingborg, Sweden Colorful 'Tradgards Festen' blossoms
Sofiero Palace and Gardens in Helsingborg, Sweden, opens its gates for a three-day festival. Vendors set up late Thursday. Dahlias the size of dinner plates are wet with morning dew at Sofiero. Stunning Sofiero Palace and Gardens -- Europe's most beautiful park -- invites people in for a weekend festival STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A clump of climbing roses forms a Valentine heart at 'Europe's most beautiful park' a title earned by the palace and grounds in 2010. WHEN KING Gustav VI Adolf planted his first rhododendren in 1907, he had no idea how his handiwork and love of gardening would blossom. This weekend's huge festival invites the public to Sofiero Palace and Gardens, one of Sweden's most popular attractions. On the grounds that host world class entertainers such as Sting, thousands of Swedes plus Danes from across the Sound are enjoying the palace's annual Garden Festival, a treat for the senses. Jazz musicians were setting up Thursday evening, along with gardeners, artists, craftsmen and caterers from across Sweden. THE PUBLIC is flocking to buy bulbs and cuttings, potted plants and bouquets while lunching on their own goodies or sampling dozens of ethnic food vendors' specialties. Lovely Helsingborg is just across the sound from Denmark. King Gustav Adolf who died in 1973, photographed at Sofiero Palace. After Thursday's rains subsided, dozens of vendors began setting up a festival at Sofiero Palace. SOFIERO was one of the Swedish royal families country mansions, bought from a farmer in 1864 by Crown Prince Oscar of Sweden. The royals enjoyed it as a get-away -- and created a feeling of countryside within the grounds, right in the center of Helsingborg. While it was beloved by several of Oscar's descendants, the royal who made it famous and beloved by the public was Oscar's grandson, future King Gustav VI Adolf, who with his wife Crown Princess Margaret turned it into a spectacular park and garden, planting over 400 varieties of rhododendron and designing spectacular gardens along a picturesque stream leading to an outdoor nook where they took afternoon tea. Rhododendrons flower over a magnificent ravine and frame the Sofiero Palace Gardens, where organic produce is grown. WHEN MARGARET died and Gustav eventually remarried Lady Louise Moutbatten, it became their official summer residence. They began the tradition of "open houses," one of which is unfolding now through Sunday in form of a famous festival. (The city of Helsingborg has operated the castle and grounds since Gustav's death in 1973 when he willed it to the city for public enjoyment.) IT TRULY is a wonderland, a riot of color and floral abundance. Dahlias the size of dinner plates stand upright with help of wooden stakes cleverly driven into the ground beneath the foliage. Hundreds of multi-colored fuchsia hang their heads in elegant excess. Roses climb up trellises and clump in fetching shapes -- several reminding of Valentine hearts. Bulbs for sale at Sofiero Palace in Sweden catch Cookie's eye. On our Thursday visit, we enjoyed bee blossom, wild carrot, poppies still abloom in almost September, and displays of every kind of bulb and tuber, adding to the draw of this southern Sweden outdoor event. THIS GRAND weekend festival of flowers in Helsingborg, Sweden, is testimony that 150 years of tradition and love of gardening can bridge the gap between classes, continents and generations. For more: www.sofiero.se Mystic View Cabins invite you to travel from a Scandinavian garden fest to the wonders of rural Montana. COMING SOON : Mystic View Cabins in rural Montana, USA, offer another kind of splendor, thousands of miles from Scandinavia. Our time travelers zip back and forth across the oceans, to sample the good life -- today in Sweden, and soon, in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana, where cabins near Fishtail offer solitude, natural wonders and a place to recharge and rejuvenate. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com












