Child born with Down Syndrome sparks love, unity, courage in Cosgriffe family Christena's auntie Misha gave her niece a pretty new dress for her third birthday! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, MISHA Christena Cosgriffe received a lovely Spanish fan among other presents, from her Auntie Olivia. MINESINGER, PATRICK COSGRIFFE Editor's Note: This story originally appeared when Christena was an infant. She celebrated her 16th birthday on June 30, 2026, and is still much loved and cared for by her guardian, Diane Moen, and our family. She loves art, music and the outdoors. She danced at her school prom at Castle Rock Middle School, where she is a popular high achieving student with excellent grades. Sadly, her father, Patrick Harry Cosgriffe, passed away two years ago, appointing Diane, his partner, as guardian. He adored his only child. SOMETIMES we're tested in ways we don't understand. Our family has met many challenges. We rise to the occasion, doing the best we can. So it is with the Cosgriffes as we deal with a first: raising a handicapped child. Christena Lynn Cosgriffe was born June 30, 2010, with Down Syndrome. MONTHS BEFORE her birth, my brother Patrick left a voice message at my Arizona home, telling me "I'm going to be a papa," I was floored -- speechless -- a rarity for me. Christena likes music, and is happy to sing and clap with her musical family. Patrick was approaching 50. He was single. He was planning to quit his job at Sears and return to college. He was overweight, with heart problems. For all these reasons, I asked my beloved brother: "A BABY? Seriously? It isn't April Fool's Day. Are you sure?" The baby's mother refused to take the test which would have determined a possible birth defect. She was in her mid-40s and the chance of a baby having Down Syndrome increases with its mother's age. We all crossed our fingers, meditated, prayed. The day the child was born, the doctor confirmed that Christena indeed was a "special needs" baby. She has Down Syndrome, an extra copy of chromosome 21. We feared "trisomy 21," is a genetic disorder caused by the presence of a third copy of chromosome 21.We'd done the homework. Now we had work to do. Christena's third birthday party attracted family and friends, caregivers, and her physical and speech therapists. HER FIRST months were complicated and after an emotional, expensive and difficult legal battle, my brother Patrick H. Cosgriffe, obtained custody. Christena came "home" to our care. She's named after three strong women -- myself, her great-great grandmother Christena Wilson Pittendrigh, and another auntie, the late Robbie Lynn Cosgriffe Townsley, her first and finest advocate. The child adds joy to our lives, just as cliches about special needs children predict. But as Hillary Clinton famously said, "It takes a village." CHRISTENA'S "village" is our Cosgriffe family -- strong, loving, loyal and, thank goodness, large. Her support includes a network of savvy and supportive speech and physical therapists, a fine pediatrician, excellent cardiologist, devoted daycare personnel and many others who love her, including Patrick's partner, Diane Moen, who loves Christena "like my own flesh and blood." Christena turns three at a party with friends and family in a colorful backyard and lots of merriment. WEE CHRISTENA had her first lung surgery in Denver when she was just weeks old. She is beset with physical woes, relating to the birth defect: a tendency for ear infections, trouble chewing and sometimes swallowing because of compromised jaw muscles, a hole in her tiny heart which will likely require open-heart surgery down the road. Her kidneys, eyes, thyroid and other organs are monitored and not those of a "normal" child. SHE COULD develop skeletal problems, so her posture is carefully observed. She has worn leg braces and supports in her shoes, to boost her ankle function and walking. At her third birthday, she was walking with spirit and confidence. Patrick walks with her every day. Christena and her father, Patrick Harry Cosgriffe, enjoy their back yard. She is cheerful and loving, laughs and mimics others, and is an observant quick study. SHE QUICKLY learned my Yorkies' names, and says, "Oh, puppies. Hi, Nick and Nora." She knows her colors and brings me the pups' kibble bowls -- blue for Nick, red for Nora. "OK, puppies. Eat now," she says, clapping her hands. WHEN SHE was just days old, I touched my pointer finger to hers and whispered, "Sistine Chapel." That quickly became our greeting, one which others in "the village" have adopted. Michelangelo's magnificent painting of God and Adam touching hands has always inspired me, heretic that I claim to be. Christena and the writer, Christene, indulge in silliness, at play with zucchini. When Christena sees me, she extends her "ET" finger to meet mine. I hope this is always our special greeting. She calls me "Ween" -- her version of "Queen," my nickname from her, based on her tiny "Princess" t-shirt. "There are many princesses in a court," I told her when she was just one. "There is but one Queen! It is I!" "Q" IS A tough letter to pronounce, but I know she'll master it. Christena and I have a special connection, which includes laughing and abundant silliness. My brother loves this late-in-life only child dearly. He keeps her immaculate and beautifully groomed. Her dark hair glistens, often in a pony tail. Her face is always shiny clean. She smells like a spring valley after rain. When she slops pea soup or smears frosting on her dress, she is quickly changed. Christena recently met cousins in the "Cosgriffe Village"at her great uncle Harry Cosgriffe's memorial. Auntie Olivia holds her at the Harlowton Cemetery. PATRICK HAS returned to college, with plans to be a drug and alcohol counselor. He is losing weight, walking, getting fit. He busy day is long and complicated: study and classes, childcare and seeing to Christena's complex medical needs, exercising, support groups, laundry, meal preparation. Meanwhile, "The Village" fills in the cracks. Sister Olivia walks and dances with Christena. Brother Rick and his partner Jane watch her and read to her. Sister Misha dotes on her, too, sending her adorable dresses from Atlanta. I pick out books for her, sing to her and hope she'll be a piano player. She has nice, long fingers! Patrick's good friend, Ginger, loves her dearly and contributes to her care. Christena had a new birthday gown as she turned three. COUSINS, FRIENDS and caretakers lavish love and attention upon her. Her speech therapist Vicki Andre and her physical therapist Linda Malloy came to her birthday party. They sing her praises, and believe she will be able to attend regular school, so well is she doing in day care and pre-school. The early attention paid is making all the difference in her handicap, needs and personal potential. MY LATE mother Ellen would have loved this child, a granddaughter younger than her great grandchildren. Her grandfather Richard would be smitten with her sweet smile and air kisses. YES, CHRISTENE Lynn was born with difficulties to overcome. Down Syndrome is not for sissies. But luckily, she was born into a family willing to share the challenge and joys. Christena in the writer's arms, with her uncle Rick (in blue) and from left, her auntie Olivia, father Patrick, auntie Misha. Early treatment -- including speech, physical and occupational thearapy -- is essential to improving a Down Syndrome child's chances. Christena's therapists commend Patrick for seeking support and treatment the week of her birth, giving Christena a good chance at a happy, productive "normal" life. Sometimes, I hear Patrick reading her to sleep when I'm overnighting at the Billings house family members share. HE READS with expression and I hear him answering Christena's questions: "What's that?" "That's a deer." "What's that?" "It's a rabbit." A bird. A cat. A tree. A puppy. "Nick and Nora?" she asks. Christena Lynn Cosgriffe on her way to sweet dreams. PATRICK IS old enough to be her grandfather. He knows that as she ages, her problems may multiply. But for now, she's thriving. Each Down Syndrome child is different. So is each parent. Patrick has devotion and discipline in spades. I WITNESS that as he tucks her in at night, and wishes her "sweet dreams." We accept that Christena has Down Syndrome. She also has love, love, love. The Beatles song tells us that's all we need. Patrick and Christena have that in abundance. And they have the Cosgriffe "Village" staunchly in place behind them. The Bair Museum is one of the enticements in Martinsdale. COMING UP: With Pope Francis visiting Brazil and Egypt in turmoil, we examine the cultures and speculate on the excitement and challenge of change sweeping this pair of intriguing countries, both recently visited by the writer and photographer. And we look at a small Montana town in summertime splendor as we visit Martinsdale's Crazy Mountain Inn and Bair Museum. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com.

Photographers from all over the world are drawn to the colors of the colorful cottages and sweeping sea views of Cinque Terre, visited from Porto Venere, a province of La Spezia, Italy SPEND A DAY TRAVERSING PICTURESQUE VILLAGES BELOVED BY POETS ON ITALY'S ALLURING COAST Cookie and Keller, happy in Porto Venere, Italy, near a famed Gothic church, stunning beaches, caves, rocky promontories and a clifftop fortress. Seafood is one of the draws of the exotic ports of Cinque Terre. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: This piece was updated and verified July 2026 UNFORGETTABLE VIEWS of the bay inspired English poets more than a century ago, and continue to draw visitors from around the globe to magical Cinque Terre. Lunch al fresco, featuring calamari, clams, octopus and local greens in Monterosso. Cultural Travel Experiences Five picturesque townships bursting with color and charm look out on the Ligurian Sea, an alluring arm of the Mediterranean. WE SPENT a few delightful days here, on the northwest edge of Italy's boot," recharging after a week of hectic touring. We jumped ship after a rejuvenating Royal Caribbean sail aboard Brilliance of the Seas, and returned to Monterosso al Mare. Cinque Terre is nestled between the Italian Riviera (Liguria) and the island of Corsica, this quintet of enticing hamlets may be accessed by train or boat from La Spezia. The castle of Porto Venere draws hikers to a stunning view. We motored to Cinque Terre from the Brilliance, tracing the route Napoleon developed when he was assembling his navy in the late 18th Century. We motored from La Spezia, also famous as an entree to Tuscany. We'd explored the wonders of Florence and its magnificent Uffizi Gallery many times so searched for a new discovery: enter Cinque Terre. Winding streets with fun shops featuring handmade crafts are part of Cinque Terre's charm. WE BOARDED our boat in Porto Venere, known for its Regional Natural Park, a lovely protected area with trails and dive sites. The park encompasses Palmaria Island, dotted with beaches and caves. We walked past colorful shops and hotels to the Gothic-style Church of St. Peter, which sits atop a rocky headland. Nearby is the centuries-old Castello Doria, an imposing clifftop fortress with views of the Gulf of Poets. The wonders entertain the senses -- grottos, tower-like houses, riots of bougainvillea, fine seafood, beautiful handmade linens and pottery, and romantic footpaths dating back to the Middle Ages. Our favorite walk was the Via dell'Amore, dedicated to lovers. More info: www.cinqueterre.eu.com/ Fishing is an important career for many locals. We watched the owners of these boats repair nets one afternoon. UP NEXT: What do you know about Malta? This small but interesting Mediterranean country is less than 100 kilometers from Sicily. Nearly everyone speaks Italian, but Maltese is the major language, a pleasing blend of several languages, including Arabic, because of the proximity to Africa. Other languages spoken are French and English, But its closeness to Africa inspires not only language, but Malta's art, architecture, food and temperament. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly to explore, learn and live as we offer a fresh approach to travel, nature and the arts. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com

Palm Springs Art Museum has two outdoor sculpture gardens and is home to paintings and sculpture by Alexander Calder, Claire Falkenstein, Helen Frankenthaler, Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore, Roberto Matta, Robert Motherwell, Agnes Pelton, and David Alfaro Siqueiros, among many others. Passion for art, deep pockets fund treasure of a museum in downtown Palm Springs (It's about location, location, location) The open, beautifully lit space encourages meditation, wandering, enjoying an impressive collection including many famous artists. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: This piece was updated and verified in July of 2026 HOLLYWOOD ICONS, civic leaders, artists and art aficionados have made Palm Springs Art Museum a treasure, beloved by the diverse community and visitors alike. The building itself -- 150,000 square feet -- is an innovative, example of the midcentury modern architecture which distinguishes this remarkable desert town. Docents do their homework at Palm Springs. Here, a knowledgeable volunteer takes museum visitors through the exhibits with enlightening commentary and time for questions at each stop. Its striking, light-loving design is typical of that style popularized from the 1930s through the 1960s. SKILLED DOCENTS have done their homework and offer regular tours, volunteering time and knowledge to the beloved building. It includes a delightful bistro, two outdoor sculpture garden patios, a lovely small theater -- the Annenberg, named after patrons -- and an impressive array of changing exhibits. This varied, eye-catching contemporary collection is at the heart of the museum’s mission. Art, desert views share a Palm Springs setting. Palm Springs Art Museum Guide highlights It contains an artful array of more than 3,000 sculptures, paintings and prints, 2,000 fine art photographs, and another 40,000 negatives, contact sheets and photo-based objects. Significant gifts came from philanthropist oilman Ted Weiner, who kept a home in Palm Springs and was both a generous patron and sharp-eyed collector. He appreciated the work of renowned sculptor Henry Moore, and their friendship resulted in "Reclining Figure" and several other Moore acquisitions which helped put the museum on the international museum radar. An eye-catching piece by Duane Hanson is super-realistic and awaits perusal at Palm Springs Art Museum. This Henry Moore "Woman' is one of several pieces in the museum created by the renowned sculptor and donated by a Texas oilman who loved Palm Springs and shared his impressive collection. Spending a couple hours is minimum for a Palm Springs Art Museum guide. Many visitors spend considerably more time, stopping at the cafe for lunch or a coffee and pastry. Gabriel Woo is chef at Livs, which offers breakfast, lunch, and Thursday night dinner, featuring items such as tasty flatbreads, salads and sandwiches. Given Palm Springs' international reputation as an epicenter of mid-century modernism, art from this period forms the foundation of the museum’s collection. The museum's use of space is both artful and enticing, drawing the eye forward, maintaining an intriguing flow of color, lines and subject matter. AMONG OTHER WELL known artists represented are Alexander Calder, Claire Falkenstein, Helen Frankenthaler, Barbara Hepworth, Marina Abramović, Louise Bourgeois, John Chamberlain, Antony Gormley, Duane Hanson, Mona Hatoum, Anish Kapoor, Anselm Keifer, Sarah Sze, Dale Chilhully and Stanley Whitney. California artists play a significant part in the dynamic collection of contemporary art, but internationally known European, Asian and South American artists are represented, too. SKILLED DOCENTS do their homework to offer interesting, volunteering as they share the delights of the beautiful building. The space includes a lovely small theater, the Annenberg, named after patrons, and an impressive array of changing exhibits including one by native American artist Gerald Clarke, whose wit, empathy and humor address injustice in biting ways. The Palm Springs Art Museum is open, airy and welcoming, with plenty of room to enjoy and study the impressive collection of contemporary work on display. The impressive modern and contemporary collection is at the heart of the museum’s mission. It contains a stunning array of more than 3,000 sculptures, paintings and prints, 2,000 fine art photographs, and another 40,000 negatives, contact sheets and photo-based objects. The mountains that frame the town bracket the building, too, offering patrons an eye-catching approach. It's a fitting preview for what's inside. THE TREASURE trove of paintings, sculptures and works on paper form a who's who of the modernist movement and the development of contemporary art. Artists experiment with form and materials, and thoughtful curation moves the viewer easily along through three floors of exhibitions. The museum planned a move from its outgrown smaller space in 1974 when renowned architect E. Stewart Williams agreed to design the building, emerging from partial retirement to do so. Originally the Palm Springs Desert Museum, it has grown from its initial location 1938 at La Plaza Arcade on Palm Canyon Drive near downtown Palm Springs. In 1958, it moved to a larger building but soon outgrew that as well. The present location is its third. Ttwo other buildings are under the museum umbrella. Free admission Thursday from 4-8 p.m., and every second Sunday. Regular hours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m., closed Wednesdays. psmuseum.org The classic Allen Elizabethan Theatre is one of three exciting venues at Oregon Shakespeare Festsival. NEXT UP: The world renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival introduces its season this week with a new artistic director and a slate of plays to wow the veteran theater goer or the novice. Read about this extraordinary theater celebrating its landmark 85th season in Ashland, Oregon, where three venues beckon and the wealth of plays awaits. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, nature, travel, cruising, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com osfashland.org

At Palm Springs Tram, the Coachella Valley spreads out in the distance from the mountain-top vista. Far below is the city of Palm Springs, where temperatures can reach 120. It 35-40 degrees cooler at the top, a relief in summer. TRAM RIDE YIELDS GORGEOUS VIEWING, COOL TEMPERATURES, HIGH ABOVE PALM SPRINGS Layers are appropriate for Bruce Keller & Christene "Cookie"Meyers in late spring. By early May, the park is warming and you won't need more than a sweater. But you will experience a temperature change of 35-40 degrees from Palm Springs below the tram at 2,400 feet above sea level. You'll climb to over 8,000 feet to the top of Mount San Jacinto. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated in July of 2026. HIGH ABOVE the heat of the desert floor, magical mountains await with cooling breezes. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway whisks viewers on a breathtaking ride to almost 9,000 feet above sea level. There, a world of hiking trails, wildflowers, birds, squirrels and sometimes snow awaits. WHEN IT COMES to heights, I'm a scaredy cat. But I felt comfortable, even with the gentle pre-announced "bumps" as the tram passes various stations. I truly enjoy the rotating tram with wonderful views for everyone. No bad seats and we were totally safe. Its workings are carefully inspected. In fact, the operation is closed for several weeks each year for maintenance and thorough inspection. It purrs like a kitten and is tended with meticulous care. Cookie and Keller enjoy snow at the top of the ride near the boarding area, in late February. It's cool even in the heat of summer -- 70 degrees when it's 110 in Palm Springs. It's a great place to cool off. THE TRAM is a major California tourist attraction, drawing many to stay a day or two in Palm Springs. The area attracts golfers, sun seekers, bird watchers, nature lovers and those just wanting to relax or escape colder climes. As the largest rotating aerial tramway in the world, the tram opened with great fanfare in September 1963 whisking folks from the floor of the Coachella Valley to near the top of San Jacinto Peak. Constructing it in rugged Chino Canyon was an engineering marvel. Helicopters delivered tons of building material and equipment. The tram was the dream of a young electrical engineer named Francis Crocker. IN 1935, while on a trip to Banning, California, with newspaper publisher Carl Barkow, Crocker was nearly overcome by the heat. Mopping his brow in the sultry desert warmth, he gazed at the still snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto -- 10,834 feet elevation. He longed to “go up there where it’s nice and cool.” And so “Crocker’s Folly,” as it was soon dubbed by one newspaper woman, was born -- a tramway up the sheer cliffs of Chino Canyon for stunning views of Mt. San Jacinto. WE BOARDED the tram for our first ride many years ago. It's a thrilling 10-minute transit over 2.5 miles and 6,000 feet in elevation. With snow still on the mountains, the tram offers a chance to play in snow at the top. Palm Springs residents take their kids up with sleds and toys. Passengers have spectacular views of the rugged canyon and the rocky pathway the tram takes to the summit. AS WE SOARED above the desert wilderness to the breath-taking landscape of Mt. San Jacinto State Park. A few weeks ago, we enjoyed the stunning scenic vista, while families played in the snow. Then we hiked a well constructed trail from the Mountain Station. The rotating tram made news when it was introduced in the late 1990s, the largest ratating tram in the world With your Palm Springs Tramway Adventure underway, cars inch up the mountain, they slowly rotate for guests to take in a full panoramic view of the rugged canyon below. Once to the top, guests can take it all in from observation decks, check out the natural history museum and two historical documentary theaters. Outside, enjoy more than 50 miles of hiking trails for the true outdoor enthusiasts. Docents are on hand both inside and outside to answer questions. There's a pleasant cafe with grab-and-go snacks for a picnic lunch or early supper. Peaks Restaurant is more formal, with lovely views and a pleasant ambiance offering a more relaxing dining experience. We enjoyed the restaurant with our friends from England. If you're planning to hike on your own, there are five trail options to choose from. They range in length and difficulty. For those looking for a leisurely nature stroll, our amiable docent recommended the “Long Valley Discovery Trail.” It's less than a mile and clearly marked for an easy loop. We saw many birds and found a clean restroom. For more experienced hikers, the 11-mile round trip hike to the peak of Mt. San Jacinto takes braver hikers to the second highest point in the state. My eagle-eye husband could see all the way to Catalina Island. Because it is such a spectacular feat of engineering, the tram was dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Be sure to spend time in the "photo hall" where you'll see pictures of the difficult construction and helicopters used for much of the building process. The tram had its inaugural ride in 1963 and in the late 1990s a modern face-lift introduced the rotating tram cars. When planning your tram trip, we advise checking arrival and departure times carefully. Many people enjoy an afternoon trip up and the evening trip down, beneath the stars with the lights of the city below. The more formal restaurant is popular for celebrations and special events. And sunsets are spectacular at the top. Don't miss the last tram down, though. Tickets range from $20 to $36, but if you plan more than a couple visits, the summer pass and annual pass are a bargain with substantial savings. We met several local hikers who love them and come up weekly during the hottest months. For tickets or more information: pstramway.com Wildlife displays at the top of the tramway ride show the creatures in the mountains, here a bobcat. Two theaters show interesting nature films, there's a nice restaurant and beautiful hiking trails for a fun family adventure. UP NEXT: "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina." I'm listening to Patti LuPone sing that memorable song from the Tony winning Broadway musical, "Evita." Next week, we visit a fascinating museum in Buenos Aires dedicated to the life, rise to fame and accomplishments of a young actress from the country who became a famous and beloved first lady, "Evita." Eva Peron's Buenos Aires museum in her memory is our next feature. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, or "Las Malvinas" to Argentine people, is a peaceful town of less than 3,000 people. It is one of the smallest and most remote capital cities in the world. FISHING, PENGUINS, ENGLISH INFLUENCE, CLOSE TO ARGENTINA YET REMOTE WITH FASCINATING PAST English influence abounds in Port Stanley, including old-fashioned telephone booths. Here Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers take a stroll through the village. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE ALL remember when Queen Elizabeth 2 famously requisitioned her namesake ship, QE2, converting it to a troop ship during the 1982 conflict in the remote Falkland Islands. Many of us went to our atlas to find exactly where the islands were. So 40 years later, there we were, on the Falkland Islands during a Celebrity cruise. Our Falklands tour was full and fun, beginning with several hours at the fascinating penguin preserve on Bluff Cove. There are several lovely rural retreats in the Falklands, offering hill walking and birdwatching. We saw both King and Magellanic penguins, gentoo penguins, Cobb's wrens, and striated caracaras. We also saw the Upland Goose and Falkland Steamer Duck. A courtyard near the Port Stanley museum features remnants of the Falkland's War and old fishing boats. On the penguin trail in the Falklands Imposing Christ Church Cathedral stands proudly on Stanley's main street. Our driver was a cheerful, good natured chap, much like the Englishmen we've met in pubs in the UK. In fact, that's where he was headed after our day's outing. He'd picked us up earlier at the ship terminal, dropping us off at the preserve. When he came to fetch us after our outing, he was looking forward to his pint, like any proper Englishman capping a long day's work. THE LAND is flat and arid, much like parts of inland Australia, with the same sheep grazing terrain and miles and miles of dry grassland. In Stanley, the English influence is apparent everywhere, including the supermarket. There we found English teas, kippers, chutney, sausages and black pudding. Main street is home to fish and chip shops, and one cafe featured Cornish pastries and sticky toffee pudding. Attractions include a delightful museum, and Government House -- built in 1845 and home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands. Naturally, there's a golf course. Keller and Cookie in the Historic Dockyard Museum, a treasure trove of memorabilia and wildlife exhibits. OUR AFTERNOON in Stanley was a pleasant follow-up to the penguin excursion. We wandered the town of 2,400, and looked at a map to ground ourselves while we had a coffee. We were 300 miles northeast of the southern tip of South America. Europeans claimed the islands as early as 1645, as a stopping off point for rounding the horn. There are two main islands: East Falkland and West Falkland, and 200 smaller islands, spread out over 4,700 square miles. Most of the 3,758 people live in Stanley, a quiet capital city. We spent a couple hours at the fascinating Historic Dockyard Museum, two floors of treasures. An elderly docent spoke of growing up with three generations in her household. We also toured the impressive Christ Church Cathedral A handsome complex of British style town homes in Stanley. The average price of a home is 320,000 British pounds or about $415,000 U.S. dollars. and the Whalebone Arch, the 1982 Liberation Memorial, the Lady Elizabeth shipwreck, and some of Stanley’s original houses. We learned of the way of life and heritage in these rugged islands, where fishing, tourism, and agriculture flourish. Fishing is the largest industry, contributing more than half of the islands' annual GDP. The islands also export wool, hides and meat. Last year, more than $382 million in goods went to Spain, Morocco, the United States, Namibia, and Germany. Jetty Visitor Centre has this information, along with helpful maps and a cheerful docent to field questions. The courtyards of Port Stanley display artillery from the 1982 conflict. WE ASKED our guide about the Falklands Conflict of 1982, that short undeclared war between Argentina and Britain. It was fought over the sovereignty of the Falkland Islands. We'd heard the Argentine side in Buenos Aires, where people call the islands Islas Malvinas. The conflict lasted 74 days and cost over 900 lives. "We are a self-governing British Overseas Territory, and will remain so," he said, explaining that under the country's 2009 Constitution, the islands have full internal self-government. Meanwhile, the UK is responsible for foreign affairs, retaining the power "to protect UK interests and to ensure the overall good governance of the territory". WHAT LED to the conflict? Following World War II, the British Empire declined and many colonies gained their independence. Argentina saw this as an opportunity to push its case for gaining sovereignty over the Falkland Islands, and raised the issue in the United Nations, first stating its claim after joining the UN in 1945. Yet, Falkland Islanders overwhelmingly prefer to remain British while many Argentine people still argue that "Islas Malvinas" is theirs. WE ASKED our Argentine friend why the debate continues: "The answer is simple," he said. "The Falklands -- Islas Malvinas -- belong to Argentina. They just happen to have been seized, occupied, populated and defended by Britain for hundreds of years." As the museum docent told us, "We are British, the only life we've known for generations." To arrange a cruise to the Falklands, we recommend Celebrity Cruises: www.celebritycruises.com Mount Rushmore is a stirring place to visit, here n its autumn glory. Our next feature. UP NEXT: A visit to Mount Rushmore in its prime autumn splendor. We take readers to this dramatic South Dakota memorial -- at its most beautiful in autumn. It pays homage to the ideals of four beloved U.S. presidents -- Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt. We explore the story behind its creation, with sculptor Gutzon Borglum at the helm. His inspiration for the monumental sculpture was the driving force of its creation as he wooed politicians and presidents to back his dream. More on this fascinating project -- and the nearby Crazy Horse Memorial, which honors Native American people and their tremendous contributions and sacrifice. On to the Black Hills, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, family, the arts and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

Cormorants abound off the tip of South America, with a motor boat trip from Ushuaia. From a distance, they resemble penguins, which are found nearby at "the end of the world," a wondrous sight. Keller and Cookie motor off the coast of Ushuaia, with calm gray water and a lighthouse behind WELCOME TO THE END OF THE WORLD: BOATS, BIRDS, COLD AND BEAUTY SURROUND TRAVELERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated July of 2026. A giant southern sea lion sits surrounded by his harem and pups, while cormorants stand sentinel in the distance. Fishing and pleasure boats are docked in the Ushuaia harbor, at the end of the continent. THE ANTICIPATION was electric. We could feel the excitement in our small touring boat, a comfy catamaran which took us from the cruise port terminal in Ushuaia toward Isla de Los Pajaros, or Bird Island. We were looking for penguins and cormorants. We were not disappointed. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Ushuaia on an outing with Celebrity. We two sipped tea while others enjoyed red wine. Together we cruised the Beagle Channel and approached the island, covered with thousands of cormorants and seals. The birds fooled us at first, because they resemble penguins from a distance. But as we came closer we could see their orange feet and large impressive wings. Definitely not penguins. But beautiful cormorants. Penguins would come a bit later. The cormorants are noisy, demanding critters -- fun to watch as they spread their wings, dive to feed their young, ever keeping one another in line. WE KNEW we were in for a treat leaving windy, wild and sometimes wet Ushuaia, located at the tip of Argentina and a busy port city for Antarctica cruises. It holds the title as the southernmost town on the American continent and in the world. The charm of Magellenic penguins is obvious from the first encounter. They are captivatingly cute. Isla de los Pájaros is a rock sticking out of the Beagle Channel, several miles from Ushuaia. It gets its name because it’s home to hundreds, perhaps thousands, of birds. El Fin del Mundo -- the end of the world -- beckoned Cookie and Keller on an exciting adventure to view wildlife pf the southern hemisphere. THE PEOPLE of Ushuaia welcome the sun because they don't always have it in their windswept town, perched on a steep hill and surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to our tour to several islands, including Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies of mostly Magellenic penguins and a beautiful park, Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we also stopped. It is closer to the Antarctic Peninsula than to Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires, where our adventure began on a cruise five days earlier. MANY PEOPLE never consider a trip to this remote part of the world, but we've been many places -- including an earlier trip to this part of the planet -- and we love it. We prepared for the dips in temperature -- from 90 degrees F in Buenos Aires, to below freezing in the Antarctic. I grew up in Montana, and was excited to return to this part of the subantarctic forest, with its tundra, glaciers and gorgeous coastline. The Magellanic penguin can be recognized by his beautiful curved markings and pink around his eyes. Tierra del Fuego also offers jagged peaks, a thick beech forest, and a wild array of animals — including a relative of the camel, the graceful guanaco with its coveted fur. Whether you're cruising or visiting on your own, Ushuaia is a fascinating place. Its classic birding spots besides the islands we visited include its famous landfill where the caracara vulture abounds, the ski-lift area at the Martial Glacier, the national park, and Garibaldi Pass to the north of the city. My birding cousin Betty would have loved our outing. "The more remote the better," was her motto. Remote, Ushuaia is. And wondrous. www.celebritycruises.com www.ushuaiaturismo.com.ar/en/ Colonia in Uruguay, is known for its historic quarter and beautiful Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums display gorgeous ceramic tiles, a Colonia specialty. UP NEXT: Colonia in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, faces Buenos Aires, Argentina and is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. We found it charming and inviting, not as "touristy" as we'd expected. The lovely village is the departmental capital, Colonia del Sacramento, known for its cobbled historic quarter and colonial Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums are also on view, including the Museo del Azulejo, filled with ceramic tiles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

, including a visit to El Mirasol (sunflower or sun watcher). This famed steakhouse is a favorite with locals and a delight for tourists who have the advantage of a native son's expertise to tour the city. Keller, left, and our friend and exemplary guide, Rolando, right, pose with statues of famed writers Borges and Bioy at La Biela, a famed Buenos Aires eatery. SEEING BUENOS AIRES WITH A LOCAL BEATS ANY OTHER TOUR FOR COLOR, CHARM, SHEER FUN, INFORMATION GET A BUENOS AIRES TOURIST PASS FOR SAVINGS ON ATTRACTIONS In early morning, cafe tables await customers who will fill them by late morning. People watching and lingering over a coffee are favorite rituals in Buenos Aires. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" A GUIDED TOUR of any city is best when arranged by a local. We were lucky in Buenos Aires, to get beyond the best known spots and into the real heart of the city. We had the good fortune of enjoying the expertise and guidance of financial wizard and Buenos Aires native son Rolando on our recent tour of this fascinating city. We sampled succulent steaks, savory red wine and visited sultry tango halls. We welcomed the opportunity to tour with Rolando, reveling in his knowledge, insights and anecdotes of lesser known haunts. When we weren't with him, we used the Buenos Aires Tourist Pass to save on 10 activities and attractions. City cards offer many advantages. ROLANDO'S PASSION for his native city is unmatched by that of any guide we've encountered. Keller, Cookie and Rolando at Colon Theatre, the city's beautiful and famous opera house. He is a man of fine taste. He is a gourmand, coffee aficionado, opera buff, lover of palaces and warm pastry, fan of chocolate and crema de leche. And, perhaps a minor inconsistency, Coca Cola. He is devoted to literature and architecture, and enhanced our time with charming stories of artists, builders, poets and writers who share his love of one of the world's great cities. La Confiteria Ideal is famous for its beautifully presented pastries, elegant coffees and teas. The two-story building has hosted presidents, celebrities and is a favorite stop. BUENOS AIRES is known for its remarkable architecture, wonderful parks, top quality restaurants, and world renowned museums and concert halls, including one place you can’t miss: the Colón Theatre, the city’s fantastic Opera House. We toured it thanks to Rolando, who booked us for a fascinating afternoon there. (We wrote about this grand concert hall separately.) At La Biela, a display features writers Borges and Bioy greeting people as they discussed their writing projects. The sculptures immortalize the famed collaborators at their favorite table. ROLANDO IS comfortable in jeans and a t-shirt, but he dresses up for world conferences and spent much of his career in suits. He served as Assistant Director at the International Monetary Fund from 2003-2022 and is in demand as a financial consultant. In world capitals he shares his extensive experience in public policy, research and publication, and discovers eateries and museums to integrate into his impressive "visitor's vocabulary." Our local guide Rolando took us to charming little places down alleys and corridors, where people sit and enjoy. OUR FRIEND'S private life is more casual, whether in his Washington, D.C. apartment, or his Buenos Aires home. In D.C., he might take a break from a Zoom video meeting to share a coffee with his neighbor, my longtime friend and colleague, writer Cathy Healy. In Buenos Aires, he took time off from meetings to tour us through the heart of the city he loves. His Recoleta neighborhood is pleasant walking distance or a short taxi ride to most of the city's grandest sights and historical buildings, including a cemetery where Evita lies in a heavily fortified crypt five meters underground, to protect her remains. The cemetery is worth a visit for its grandiose array of peculiarities. Rolando grew up in Buenos Aires, with his European parents who fled Poland before Rolando was born. They brought their distinguished tastes in art, music and culinary finery to their new home in South America. Known for its prosciutto, pasta and desserts is La Parolaccia, where we went for an elegantly served early dinner with our marvelous tour guide and friend, Rolando. ROLANDO, naturally, grew up with refinement, surrounded by opera, art and fine food. He knows all the city's historic concert venues and cafés, which are part of the soul of Argentina's capital and deeply imbedded in Rolando's soul as well. The eateries were and are still frequented by artistic bohemians and celebrated writers. Some of Rolando's favorites are mentioned in guidebooks. WE DELIGHTED in discovering Confiteria La Ideal, an historic landmark and one of Rolando's favorite places. It houses a dramatic stage area with a vintage piano, an old-fashioned elevator, and elegant tables where sumptuous desserts, cocktails and specialty items are served. Woman's Bridge behind Keller, Cookie and Rolando, capping an evening in Buenos Aires with a stroll on the waterfront. This classic 1912 French- inspired building was closed six years to restore its elegant original beauty. It once was a favorite of tango dancers, too. This city claims to have invented the sultry dance known for its rhythmic accompaniment and tricky, sensuous footwork. THEN ON TO LA BIELA, the oldest restaurant in town. Opened in 1848, it has witnessed the transformation of Rolando's beloved Recoleta neighborhood. Famed personalities Adolfo Bioy Casares and Jorge Luis Borges met often here in the northern part of the city, by the Rio de la Plata. The area was transformed from fertile farmland to upscale eateries, shops and that famed aforementioned cemetery where Peron and other notables are buried. We hobnobbed with locals who, like writers Borges and Bioy once did, frequent the cafe to discuss art, literary endeavors and politics. The two famous writers are immortalized in sculpture at the table where they always sat. It remains now and forever "their" table. Elegant service is a tradition at La Parolaccia, where the city's best prosciutto is served. AFTER A HECTIC day with our enthusiastic local guide and with an early flight the next morning, we arrived early to dine at La Parolaccia. We were practically alone at 7:30 p.m. because most Argentines don't enjoy their evening meal until 9 p.m., 10 p.m., or even 11 p.m. We had fabulous service at this traditional Italian restaurant where Rolando and his late parents often dined, savoring the prosciutto which is said to be the best in town. We capped the evening with a stroll to the Puente de la Mujer -- "Woman's Bridge"-- a rotating footbridge for a busy dock in the city's Puerto Madero commercial district, a pleasant stroll from our hotel. Thank you, Rolando, for enhancing our visit beyond measure. If you ever forfeit your day job, a tour guide spot awaits you. And besides the money and time saving city pass, called "Civitatis" in B.A., we recommend both Delta and United Airlines for a variety of connections to Buenos Aires. We flew from San Diego to B.A. at noon with a pleasant layover in Houston, just enough time to grab a meal, catch up on correspondence and get to the international gate. We'd arrived just after 9 a.m., and arranged early check-in at our hotel. A nap and off for adventures. Perfect. More info: Buenos Aires CityPASS: civitatis.com united.com tripadvisor.com laparollacia.com laideal.ar teatrocolon.org.ar/guided-tours/ Poipu's beautiful green turtles, or "hono" are protected, and a heavy fine awaits, as it should, for touching them. UP NEXT: Turtles of Poipu greet us. These graceful sea turtles, or “honu” to the locals, top most travelers’ wish lists of wildlife to see in Kauai. Long considered symbols of good luck, the creatures’ kind faces and trudging gait are endearing. We watched them swim for a week, marveling at their will and endurance. The odds for a Poipu turtle to reach adulthood are slim. A newly hatched sea turtle is popular with predators as it makes its way slowly from its sandy nest to the sea. Then if they make it, hatchlings are a favorite snack of bigger creatures, and only one in 1,000 eggs survive to adulthood. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com and please share the link.

Savannah is famous for its inviting squares, beautiful oak trees and peaceful parks. Editor's Note Originally published: June 2022 Last updated: July 4, 2026 This article has been reviewed and updated to reflect current travel information, attractions and visitor recommendations. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" The Capitol Building of Savannah is one of many stately buildings. Besides government buildings, many historic homes can be visited. Savannah City Hall a Hop On Hop Off stop GLORIES AWAIT IN A TOWN FILLED WITH HISTORY, ART, SQUARES AND LIVELY TROLLEY TOURS TO BRING IT ALL TO LIFE Savannah Old Town Trolley has several stops directly serving or immediately adjacent to SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design) buildings, making it a very convenient way to visit the campus and its attractions. The SCAD beach is a retreat and attraction for students and tourists. Savannah must see wonders by Savannah by Old Town Trolley: If you’re searching for a destination that feels both timeless and effortlessly beautiful, Savannah, Georgia should be at the top of your list. With its cobblestone streets, moss-draped oak trees, and centuries-old architecture, Savannah invites you to slow down and savor every moment. Whether you’re wandering through its iconic historic squares, indulging in classic Southern cuisine, or taking in the sunset along the riverfront, this coastal city delivers an unforgettable travel experience filled with charm, history, and warmth. Savannah's Old Town Trolley is another Savannah must see and delightful way to explore the city, with lively informative guides and many stops. GEORGIA'S OLDEST city, Savannah, is a gracious, welcoming town which honors its past while embracing the new. Historians claim that Savannah was spared during Sherman's march in December of 1864. Some say he spared the beautiful city because his mistress lived there. Others claim he was simply taken with Savannah's beauty. In any case, Savannah surrendered without a siege. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause at a Patrick Dougherty installation at SCAD -- the famed Savannah College of Art and Design. We know today's Savannah as both old fashioned and contemporary, a city of many faces. It's famous worldwide for its stately, well preserved homes and inviting squares, hundreds of oaks with that artful Spanish moss, gorgeous coastal landscapes, lively shops and restaurant, and a range of art galleries. Another two Savannah must see wonders are the marvelous contemporary art museum and lively shows at the historic Savannah Theatre. Savannah is considered America's first planned city because of British born James Oglethorpe's orderly squares marking the city. It was established in 1733. THE PLENTIFUL squares 22 in total make it a beautiful and inviting walking town. You can enjoy a beverage at dozens of restaurants and bars within easy reach of the squares, while admiring stylish architecture in Savannah's Historic District. Salute native son, composer Johnny Mercer at the Mercer-Williams House Museum. His great-grandfather built it and while he didn't actually live there, he is honored in tour narration. Readers of contemporary novels will remember the house and Monterey Square, made famous by the novel, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.” The home and its palm trees have an air of eeriness that makes for an intriguing visit. Talmadge Memorial Bridge is another one of the sights you'll see when you take a riverboat. Cemeteries, ghost stories, shadowy entry ways and creaking steps are part of Savannah's Old Town Trolley's Ghost Tour which we enjoyed. More must see stops in Savannah Savannah Theatre is one of the country's oldest, with lively productions. The much used trolley also offers a daytime hop on/off historic district city tour -- our favorite -- with entertaining guides. They offer interesting narrative as the trolley wends its way through the oak-lined streets and past the beautiful squares and buildings that distinguish this stately city. We loved this relaxing, informative tour, which covers famous landmarks including the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist and the Andrew Low House, where we learned of the patriarch's rise from rags to incredible riches. Mercer Williams House Museum is an elegant reminder of Savannah's grace that rocketed to fame with the best-selling Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil." OUR GUIDE pointed out lovely Forsyth Park, a pinnacle of Savannah's beauty. We hopped off to stroll through 30 acres of live oak trees, and lush azaleas while admiring ornate Victorian mansions. We spent the better part of two days on River Street, the city's oldest street, unique in many ways. This colorful but uneven walkway is picturesque, but a bit hard on the feet -- paved with 200 year old ballast-stones, artfully recycled from stones used to weigh down cotton ships. We dined often on this aptly named street with fun restaurants, boutiques and historical monuments. Our favorite is the Weeping Girl, who waved in vain at ships entering the harbor, hoping for a return of her sailor lover. More information on seeing Savannah by Old Town Trolley: Trolleytours.com 912-226-6805 Other Savannah must see attractions and recommendations: Savannahriverboat.com 912 232-6404 Savannahtheatre.com 912 233-7764 Scad.edu The Waving Girl statue is of Florence Martus. Sadly, her sailor didn't return from the sea. Kualoa Ranch on the island of Oahu is an historic, family run enterprise dedicated to preserving Hawaii's history and culture while offering fun activities for all ages. NEXT UP: Kualoa Ranch awaits. A unique, environmentally sensitive enterprise has preserved respect for the land on the island of Oahu for generations, since 1850. The family-run working ranch offers an array of activities, from horseback riding to biking, zip lines, a farm tour and a tour of locations for movies made on the island. Great fun for couples, families or adventure loving friends. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, family, the arts, nature and more. If this destination sparked your wanderlust, there’s plenty more waiting for you - explore more travel stories and inspiration over at WhereIsCookie.com

Streets are clean and balconies show flowers and plants in pretty Montevideo. CAPITAL CITY CHARMS WITH POLITE PEOPLE, HISTORY, WIDE STREETS, AND RELAXED QUALITY PARTLY DUE TO A POPULAR TEA DRINK CALLED MATE Top photo: Above, tasty chicken salad with garnish of apples, walnuts and sesame seeds. Story Updated July 3,2026 STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' What if one of the best destinations in South America isn't on most travelers' bucket lists? After the excitement and energy of Buenos Aires, we hopped on a ferry across the Río de la Plata and discovered Montevideo, Uruguay—a city full of charm, history, ocean views, and friendly locals. From strolling the cobblestone streets of Ciudad Vieja to watching the sunset along the Rambla, Montevideo surprised us at every turn. If you're planning a trip to Buenos Aires, don't overlook this easy day trip or overnight getaway—you might just find your new favorite city. THE MOST appealing aspect of Montevideo is the friendly, welcoming feeling one gets while strolling its streets, visiting a museum or enjoying a beverage. Perhaps it's the yerba mate, an herbal tea that nearly every Uruguayan drinks. It's their equivalent of coffee, and imbibers believe it is both calming and "calmly energizing," as our guide Pablo told us. Mate contains adaptogens that help keep cortisol levels from rising too high. Its millions of consumers also believe it provides a gradual, smooth energy boost along with vitamins, minerals, and superfoods to encourage relaxation and immunity. Our splendid tour guide Pablo enjoys his mate during a break on a day trip. Mate thermoses and cups adorn many shop windows. The national drink is much enjoyed. SO ON our Montevideo itinerary, we settled into the calming vibe in this lovely city, settled in 1724 by a Spanish soldier. As the capital of this small South American country, most Americans pass it by, in favor of the larger and glitzier Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro. Happily, we spent eight pleasant days in Montevideo, with side trips to nearby villages, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. This group of students came to our aid when they saw us looking at our city map. This friendliness is typical of Uruguayan people, we found in our 10 days there. Montevideo is often overlooked in favor of larger, more visited South American cities. It has much to offer, though, including stately architecture. Montevideo's laid-back atmosphere includes a lively café culture, and well-preserved old town in the Ciudad Vieja. We enjoyed strolling this area, which is receiving a wave of immigration primarily from its neighbors—Argentina and Brazil—but also from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Our guide, in fact, was born in Cuba and came here with his Cuban wife and his mother-in-law. All are assimilated in Montevideo and love it. Montevideo's streets are neat and welcoming, with pretty shops, art displays and usually few crowds. Carrasco International Airport is a pleasant contrast with other more hectic South American ones. Its family-friendly nature is typical of Uruguay. Free strollers were available for use within the airport. Family bathrooms and baby rooms for feeding and changing are plentiful and easy to access. Most everyone speaks English and young people are polite and friendly. We encountered a group of students who recommended a tango show and fun inexpensive restaurant. Museums and cultural centers/events offer free admission for kids under 12 and reasonable student rates. Montevideo's imposing equine statue features the national hero of Uruguay, José Gervasio Artigas.He lived from 1764 to 1850 and who led the fight for independence against Brazil and Portugal. Life in Montevideo revolves around cafes, many spread out around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja with beautiful art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre. Mercado del Puerto has trendy steakhouses, in a gentrified area of the old port market which celebrates its history. Shady, welcoming cafes, clean streets and attractive architecture mark Montevideo, with its many free activities, museums and other offerings. Montevideo and its rich cultural life offer the pleasures of a vibrant city such as Miami or Malaga. Both south Florida and the Costa del Sol came to mind during our time in Montevideo, which shares the same rich cultural and ethnic background as Miami in the U.S. and Malaga in Spain. More info: Dream Tour Uruguay and guide Pablo are highly recommended. Tours of Montevideo,Punta del Este and Colonia are all offered this top rated tur agency in Uruguay:www.dreamtour.com.uy Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day in Colonia, with historic architecture, charming shops. UP NEXT: While we're in Uruguay, we visit two very different cities: Punta del Este, with its lively beach culture, and the historic town of Colonia. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, and the city quickly came to be of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. We found Uruguay welcoming and clean, friendly and reasonably priced. Its stable economy and kind and gracious people are appealing reasons to plan a trip. It's also very family friendly. Children are welcome, and often invited free to museums and other venues. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, food, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Summer and Autumn is a perfect time to visit Mount Rushmore National Memorial in South Dakota's Black Hills. Majestic figures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln surrounded by the beauty of the Black hills of South Dakota. Tell the story of birth, growth and development and preservation of this country. Story updated July 3, 2026 STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Few American landmarks are as recognizable as Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Tucked into the scenic Black Hills of South Dakota, this iconic monument draws visitors from around the world each summer. Whether you're planning a family vacation, a cross-country road trip, or a weekend getaway, visiting Mount Rushmore offers more than just a famous photo opportunity. From breathtaking granite carvings and ranger programs to nearby hiking trails, historic towns, and unforgettable Black Hills scenery, here's everything you need to know before your summer 2026 adventure. An "Avenue of Flags" welcomes visitors - an impressive and colorful array of flags of the 50 U.S. states, territories, commonwealths and the District of Columbia. A FEELING of intense pride overcame me as I gazed in wonder at Mount Rushmore. Surrounded by an international crowd of admirers -- many with children, hundreds with cameras -- I heard French, Italian, Hindi, Hebrew, German, Mandarin, Japanese and Polish as people absorbed the accomplishment. Fellow Americans wiped tears and I found myself emotional, too. Many children are part of the crowds each day as three million people from all over the world visit annually. ONE ENTERS Mount Rushmore National Memorial through an impressive hall of flags. The display forms an artful promenade -- flags gently waving in autumn winds. The "avenue" was established during the 1976 U.S. Bicentennial as part of the celebration. It was fun to find our two states' flags -- California and Montana. We watched as fellow Americans took photos by their state's emblem. A woman from Mexico proudly recalled her naturalization ceremony here in 2007. "My whole family came," she said emotionally. There's a fine book store, ranger talks, an excellent film about the monument's making, a beautiful viewing terrace, nature trails, fascinating artful museum, a classy gift shop, and "Carver's Cafe" where the ice cream junkie in our family tasted Thomas Jefferson's own recipe. Thumbs up! "Rich and delicious," he said. Bruce Keller and Christene Cookie" Meyers at Mount Rushmore National Memorial THE STAR of the show is Gutzon Borglum's massive carving on the granite mountain. Four remarkable U.S. presidents gaze back at us, from left: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. Borglum chose them for their contributions to the country, their ethics and morals, global thinking, environmental interests and preservation of the principles of the constitution. Borglum inspected the monument many times between the work which lasted from 1927 to 1941 - photo courtesy Mount Rushmore Memorial History of Mount Rushmore National Memorial Carving began in 1927 as the son of Danish immigrants undertook his most ambitious project. One imagines him supervising as tons of dynamite blasted through the spirelike granite formations of the Black Hills. Borglum was "hands on," dangling from ropes to inspect the work as his vision took shape. He was concerned with how morning and midday light would affect his figures, and visited at various times of day to document his perceptions. Thomas Jefferson's recipe for ice cream is one of many unique displays at Rushmore. BOTH federal funds and private donations made it possible to blast more than 450,000 tons of rock from the mountain with the skills of 400 laborers. No one was killed, remarkably, and the workers are honored on a giant plaque. The original cost of under $1 million seems modest compared to the $56 million spent during an enormous redevelopment project in the 1990s. WE'VE VISITED monuments and memorials worldwide -- hundreds of them commemorating fallen war heroes, statesmen, suffragists, sea battles and sailors lost, politicians, economists, scientists, explorers, city founders, musicians and artists, even beloved dogs. None had the effect that seeing this colossal, internationally known stone sculpture had on me. Crazy Horse reaches out to his peoples' lands in the work-in-progress sculpture. The hole shows where the leader's arm will extend. One can see his finger pointing. His horse will eventually be carved beneath him. Carving began in 1948. HOWEVER, THE project has not been accomplished without controversy. Some thought the proposal would compromise the natural wonder of architecture formed millions of years ago. Many Native Americans felt that placing the sculpture on their sacred Black Hills land would represent continuing betrayal of trust, and another in a string of broken treaties. For centuries, Plains Indians including Arapaho, Cheyenne and Lakota Sioux have used the area for prayer, medicine, and for gathering food and building materials. In the latter half of the 19th century, U.S. expansion into the Black Hills led to the infamous Sioux Wars. In the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie, the U.S. government granted exclusive use of all of the Black Hills to the Sioux. So one understands the objection to the sculpture. A sculpture of Gutzon Borglum by his son, Lincoln Borglum in on display at the Memorial. TO PAY RESPECT to these great cultures and in the spirit of apology for many broken treaties, another memorial is in progress. We visited it, too, and recommend it as a companion visit to Rushmore. Mount Rushmore travel Guide should include a visit to Crazy Horse Memorial: The nearby Crazy Horse Memorial is just a half hour or 17 miles down the road from Rushmore. It is an impressive complex on Thunderhead Mountain, with a museum and elaborate displays of Indian beadwork, paintings and sculpture. Its focal point is the sculptural work in progress of the great Lakota leader and his horse. Another ambitious project, it was begun more than 75 years ago, in 1948, and continues today. The project was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a respected Lakota elder. The massive carving of Crazy Horse was inspired by his heroics at the Battle of the Little Big Horn, in which General George Custer was defeated. Survivors contributed memories of the battle to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski who undertook the project and worked on it for many years. Road trip photo shows the back of the granite with the figure of George Washington peeking out. AFTER Ziolkowski died in 1982, his widow Ruth and family continued the project, operated by the nonprofit Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, which also runs the museum and cultural center. The monument reflects desire to create a symbol of Native American heroism and resilience. Fees range from $7 to about $15. Mount Rushmore travel Guide fees: Admission is free. $10 for parking. Seniors $5 Active Military FREE mtrushmorenationalmemorial.com crazyhorsememorial.org UP NEXT: We have fun in store, with Montana's Shakespeare in the Schools, San Juan and the rain forest of Puerto Rico, a Halloween preview and a special cruise with glass blowing classes. Some of our favorite cruises offer an opportunity to learn a new art and we tried our luck at glass blowing on a recent Celebrity Eclipse cruise to Antarctica. It's a cool way to educate oneself at sea, and you keep what you make, including a novel urn for ashes of a beloved pet. More on the Bard in rural schools and a recent Celebrity cruise to the far reaches of the Earth. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Celebrity Cruises offers 15 ships and interesting options to entertain guests, here a glass blowing demonstration & class.

If the Amalfi Coast calls you, Naples is where you'll likely land first, via airplane or ship. Then on to Positano, or perhaps charming Sorrento. Don't miss the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, victims of still steaming Vesuvius. NAPLES: VIBRANT, HISTORIC ENTRYWAY TO AMALFI, SORRENTO, AND THE ANCIENT RUINS OF VESUVIUS Cigarettes, flowers and cell phones on a colorful Naples street. This lively, ancient city is a gateway to Pompeii, Amalfi and more. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: This post was updated and verified in July 2026 OLD MEETS NEW, noise collides with calm, clutter meets elegance in one of southern Europe's great, enduring cities. In Naples and this diverse corner of Italy you'll find ancient courtyards and grand staircases, elegant halls and busy streets, buses, busts, scooters, smokers, tourists, locals, dust, wine shops, great museums, majestic cathedrals and irreverent youth. Bruce Keller waits in Naples at the Napoli Garibaldi train station, framed by a billboard for Strega, an orange flavored Italian liquer popular in Naples. The city is one of contrasts and extremes, sandwiched between the Campi Flegrei, or "burning fields" and a sleeping volcano. Just steps from the sea, Naples rises up, with antiquity, grace and a centuries old fortress. THE VOLCANO, Vesuvius, is one of the major attractions for visitors to Naples, who usually plan side trips. Your Naples and Amalfi coast itinerary should include a drive to Positano. Consider, too, lovely Sorrento and two famous ruined cities. Both Pompeii and Herculaneum have interesting museums with sculptures and displays to study. In AD79, Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii, south of Rome, in about 25 hours. A full day is about what you should plan to see the fascinating city. The preserved site features excavated ruins of streets and houses that one can explore. Because the city was buried so quickly by volcanic ash, it is an eerily, well-preserved snapshot of life in a Roman city -- people crafting pottery, shopping, even giving birth. Equally fascinating is nearby Herculaneum, also destroyed by the vengeful Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, though, the smaller, wealthier city was encased in a pyroclastic material that covered and carbonized the town. This preserved wood in objects -- roofs, beds and doors -- and organic-based materials such as food. All this is artfully displayed for us to ponder. Most but not all of the residents evacuated the city in advance. But more than 400 well-preserved skeletons were found. These people perished near the seawall. Remains were discovered in 1980. Italy's train stations will get you from Naples to the historic cities destroyed by Vesuvius. They also feature shops for souvenir shopping with everything from camera equipment to Italian crafts. The easiest way to get from Naples to Pompeii or by Herculaneum is by train. Each takes about 30-40 minutes and there are many of these friendly "regional" trains. Naples and Amalfi Coast Itinerary WE LIKE the trains but if you prefer a shuttle, that's a possibility, too. We recommend City Sightseeing Naples for a personalized day tour of Naples and SAMI Private Tours for your journey up the Amalfi Coast to Positano. Terrific commentary, small comfortable vehicles. In Naples, a red hop-on-and-off sightseeing bus passes historic Castel Nuovo, its flags waving. Back in Naples, a pizza maker sings Verdi while he works his dough. You're in the birthplace of pizza, so enjoy. Young boys approach the tourist with smiles and Neapolitan gestures. Couples lounge in wicker seats drinking champagne at outdoor cafe tables -- as early as 10:30 a.m. Life is lived large in the streets. Strollers enter a mix of students, housewives, children with music everywhere: a mix of opera, hard-rock and Italian folk songs. Music is in the Neapolitan soul. IF HOMER is to be believed, Ulysses was the first mariner to escape temptation in the Bay of Naples. According to "The Odyssey," Ulysses knew of the bay’s infamous sirens — part women, part bird or nymph — who lured sailors to their death by singing so beautifully that no one could sail on without succumbing. So when returning from the Trojan War, he plugged the ears of his crew with beeswax and bound himself to the mast until they were safely past the sirens. Angry over their failure to seduce the sailors, one of the sirens, Parthenope, drowned herself. The original Naples supposedly began on the spot where she washed ashore. A trek up the Amalfi Coast is a must, with its curving roads and breathtaking scenery. Easy to do from Naples. Communities around Naples date to the second millennium before Christ. Europeans visit Naples for its mild, sunny Mediterranean climate, safe harbor, turquoise sky, and indigo sea. Its lush green look is enhanced by rich volcanic soil and an easy growing season. THE RAVAGES of World War II are mostly repaired, as are the results of centuries of earthquakes and volcanic activity. The traditional Christmas trees are up for a few more days! Celebrated for its paintings, mosaics and music, Naples is breathtakingly beautiful approached from the sea. But don't miss a few days "up the road" to Sorrento, those two ruined cities and Amalfi's enchanting coastline. MORE INFO: city-sightseeing.it www.samiprivatetours.it For information on the area: visitnaples.eu/en Nick, left, and Nora, were four months old in this photo, taken when they were pups. UP NEXT: Why the fuss about dogs from yours truly this week? One doggie, in particular, our Yorkshire terrier, Nora, came close to the Rainbow Bridge but has made a remarkable comeback thanks to a fine veterinarian, a doggie ICU and plenty of TLC from the human species. Doggone it, we love our pets and make no apology. Discover how Yorkie Nora and her brother, Nick came to Cookie as puppies and helped save this reporter's life. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, theater, art, nature, family and more. We feature international travel, with many worldwide destination features at our website: www.whereiscookie.com www.whereiscookie.com

IF YOU HAVE ONLY A BRIEF TIME, MAKE EVERY ROMAN MINUTE COUNT BY HIRING AN EXPERT TOUR GUIDE One of Rome highlights, a must-see, is Trevi Fountain, with a $3 million bridge project financed by Fendi, the big name fashion house, underway . The renovation project will allow visitors to view the famed fountain from above! The Colosseum is a Rome highlight, another must-see. A private guide will give you time to enjoy it, ask questions and never feel rushed. Motorcycles are a part of Rome culture. Cookie and expert guide Lucilla Favino pause near the Commons of Old Rome. Editor's Note This story was updated July 3, 2026, to reflect current information. Top guide Lucilla Favino has added bicycle touring to her offerings. Her contact info is below. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" There are few places in the world where 2,000 years of history blend so effortlessly with modern life as they do in Rome. Stand inside the mighty Colosseum and imagine the roar of ancient crowds. Wander through the Roman Forum, where emperors, senators, and citizens once shaped the course of Western civilization. Then trade history for a leisurely afternoon filled with fresh pasta, creamy gelato, and espresso at a sidewalk café while watching the city come alive around you. Rome isn't just a place to see it's a city to experience with all your senses. If you really want to understand its remarkable past and discover hidden stories beyond the guidebooks, consider hiring a knowledgeable private guide. At WhereIsCookie.com, we've traveled the city a half-dozen times. We are happy to recommend an exceptional local guide who can turn a great vacation into an unforgettable journey through the Eternal City. WE ALL KNOW the cliche, "Rome wasn't built in a day." "Old Rome" features ruins where Plato and others strolled, conversed and lectured. But if you only have a day or two in one of the great cities of the world, you can pack a lot of wallop into your time, with planning and a private guide. How to see top Rome highlights We recommend hiring a guide, and you won't find any better one than Lucilla Favino, a native Roman who loves her city and knows its history to the most minute detail. That's because she has passed the rigorous five-hour guide test and has a doctorate in archeology. We've benefitted from her expert insider knowledge for 15 years. Monuments, plazas, history at every turn is yours when you visit Rome. Consider hiring a top guide. We've spent times on three different trips with Lucilla, including one six-hour personalized tour which brought us into parts of Rome we'd not seen on a half-dozen previous visits. It also included the standard "big attractions" -- which never bore. Rome highlights you must-see LUCILLA'S BRILLIANCE in her chosen profession shines. She is an expert in Roman history and its intricacies, and takes visitors to Rome's highlights with ease and efficiency. Besides her vast knowledge and engaging storytelling ability, she has a gift for time management. We never felt rushed under her touring of the Eternal City, but we saw more in every visit with her than we'd seen in days of touring by ourselves. A good guide knows the history of every piazza in Rome. Stories tell the city's remarkable history. Instead of being crammed in a long bus, or walking with a dangling earphone with the guide a block ahead, you'll stroll arm-in-arm with her, walking where Caesar and Aristotle strolled, staring up at the ceiling Michelangelo painted on his back high atop a ladder, listening to your guide's commentary. Picture the shouts of the crowd as lions roared at the doomed prisoners in the Colosseum. Lucilla has stories! Remember to visit the famed Trevi Fountain, with the coin toss so you are sure to return. Keller captured this classic Roman look on our recent trip to a favorite city. NO CITY on earth can compare to Rome. And no guide can compare to Lucilla. Her love of history is enhanced by her devotion to Rome's art. She points out architectural details one might miss, and she stops at the shops to indulge her penchant for chocolate, which we share! Romans love their sweets -- as seen in this shop window! With our private guide, Lucilla, we tried some samples. With her pleasant and engaging commentary, you'll walk the same streets the ancients walked and view some streets of ancient Rome several layers beneath today's streets. Our visit to "Old Rome" truly captured the feeling of life then! With Lucilla, we also visited and toured the Vatican, the smallest independent nation on earth, then we walked the stylish shopping streets to see how modern Romans live alongside all the historic splendor. AS YOU STROLL the one-time epicenter of the Roman Empire, gazing over the largest Roman amphitheater, you might decide to book Lucilla to see the Pope give his weekly address in St. Peter’s Square. She'll set it up! She'll also help you test your resolve at the Mouth of Truth, learn to fight like a gladiator, and sample a pizza to see what sets Roman pizza apart from the other pizza of the world. Few cities entertain as Rome does but a good guide helps keep Rome from being overwhelming. Lucilla knows how to navigate its fast-paced, varied options. She gives time to ponder - and takes breaks to sample the city’s famous wine, coffee and gelato. "I love my city," she says. "I love to answer the questions, to stop when someone shows particular interest in a place. If someone is tired, I can sense it. Then we go sit and have a cappuccino and I answer a question or tell a story." WE RECOMMEND Lucilla, for a guide with intelligence, a sense of fun and a love of her native city. Her contact information is: Lucilla Paola Favino, (+39)338.9221760 (Rome phone), or lucilla.euroacademy@gmail.com Red Lodge, Montana, is a picturesque mountain town, with beauty in all four seasons. COMING UP: From Rome to Red Lodge! What makes this picturesque little mountain town in www.whereiscookie.com Montana so darned much fun? Whether you're looking forward to ski season or planning a trip to Yellowstone Park next summer, have a look at Red Lodge with its lively eateries, fine lodging, shops, wildlife and more. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekly for a fresh look at arts, travel and life: www.whereiscookie.com New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com