Search Results

William Wrigley Jr. put his heart and his pocketbook into his beloved Catalina Island, where his widow erected a loving memorial in the Botanic Garden. A world of native plants, and a stunning tribute to a generous man await. TAKE TIME TO CHECK OUT CATALINA'S HIDDEN WONDERS: WRIGLEY GARDEN, MUSEUM, AIRPORT WITH GOOD EATS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOLLYWOOD STARS  misbehaved there. Chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. purchased stock in it, sight unseen. Today, tourists come from all over the world. Such was and is the allure of Santa Catalina Island, off the California coast. The "fame" started with the chewing gum icon. Who's this? A young, pre-blonde, Marilyn Monroe, on Catalina. Right, Wrigley smiles on Catalina. Once Wrigley sailed over to see what he'd invested in, he bought out other investors, becoming sole owner of the island. THAT WAS  in 1919, nearly a century ago. Today, Wrigley's stamp is felt throughout the island. And Hollywood's happy ghosts inhabit its streets, bistros and hotels. The Chicago Clubs spent many spring training days in the lovely climate and surroundings of Catalina. The Catalina Museum, moving sometime soon into new multi-million-dollar digs, is now housed in the Catalina Casino Wrigley built. There, we enjoyed historic photos of the Chicago Cubs' time in Catalina. AVID BASEBALL  fan Wrigley brought the team there for spring practice, which the team continued until the 1950s, past Wrigley's 1932 passing. His story is a true American success story: as a 13-year old kid, he sold his father's soap door-to-door from a two-horse wagon in rural Pennsylvania and New York. The gum he gave out free, to purchasers of the soap, was so popular that he went into the gum manufacturing business in Chicago. THE REST  is history. Within years, he was a millionaire, acquiring a handsome share of The Cubs, and buying up 90 per cent of Catalina. He built a dock and used his own private funds to establish electricity, water and sewer systems. Mrs. Wrigley built a beautiful memorial to her ambitious husband, and guests to the Wrigley Gardens can stroll up to it, and even to its top, with a lovely view of the gardens and sea. Soon, Hollywood discovered what Wrigley was excited about. Catalina's proximity to Los Angeles allowed the stars easy, quick access. Soon Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, John Wayne, and Johnny Weissmuller were sailing their boats to Avalon Harbor. Marilyn Monroe came there as a young bride, while her first husband was serving his country. By day, the stars swam, fished and enjoyed the scenery. By evening, they mingled with islanders in restaurants and bars on the island’s two towns — Avalon and Two Harbors. They drank, dined, danced and caroused. Errol Flynn explained the island's pull: “...we were so intoxicated with the sheer zing of existence that we were half-mad..." CATALINA ISLAND  Museum’s impressive collection includes an impressive array of historical and cultural items. With generous donations, the museum has grown to a bonanza of 150,000 items representing the island's archaeology, natural history and architectural accomplishments. Ephemera, newspapers, archives, postcards, three-dimensional items and 10,000 photos and negatives (rotated and dating back to 1880) tell stories of island life. The Museum features a large and comprehensive collection of Catalina pottery and tile -- another Wrigley brain child -- manufactured in Catalina from 1927-1937. Private jets take off and land in spectacular beauty on Catalina. BOAT MODELS , sport fishing items, artifacts from the Island's steamships and more have made the new museum necessary. The enormous collection also boasts valuable archaeological artifacts. The Airport in the Sky's colorful bar and restaurant have lots of fun art. Wrigley erected hotels and built the world's largest dance hall -- the museum's home for a bit longer: Avalon Grand Casino. He built a harbor, bird park and established Catalina Clay, providing work for locals. Its tiles and pottery are still admired worldwide. His beloved Cubs trained on the island until 1951. Hollywood filmed dozens of films there. In 1975, Mr. and Mrs. Philip Wrigley (the gum magnate's son and daughter-i-law) and Philip’s sister, Dorothy Wrigley This small plane landed while we were on Catalina -- it's a small, spectacular runway with a stellar view of the ocean and surrounding landscape. Offield, deeded 42,000 acres owned by Santa Catalina Island Company to the Catalina Island Conservancy, giving control of 88% of the island. Wrigley's widow incorporated more than 60 of the island's 60 plant and animal species into the garden memorial. THE AIRPORT  in the Sky occupies a 1,602-foot-tall mountaintop at the center of the Island, 10 miles from Avalon. It's a fun destination, although our tour bus ride was jarring. We saw hikers and bikers, and a few private planes -- my choice for next visit. The airport's single 3,250-foot-long runway was constructed by blasting two adjacent peaks, then using the resulting debris for fill. Actors, artists fly high in novel about film's early days The DC-3 Gifts and Grill restaurant is famed for its excellent buffalo burgers, which we sampled. They also offer chicken and vegetarian burgers, and our guide Manny raved about the Mexican specialties and buffalo tacos. In summer, the Grill's barbecues -- with live music from Island band Hot off the Range. We also picked up some tasty buffalo jerky, and a collectible glazed tile in the gift shop. www.visitcatalinaisland.comwww.catalinaconservancy.org/index.php.airport_in_the_sky www.catalinaconservancy.org/index.php www.wrigleymemorialgarden Cookie, Keller and new friends take a ride on Kowloon Harbour. COMING UP:  Come with us to Asia. We're in Hong Kong now, and soon will be writing about our magnificent five-week odyssey. We'll travel on sampans, junks, bikes, trains, planes and cruise ships with occasional one-way streets (going the wrong way in a tuk-tuk.)  Then, can a scardey cat who once nearly drowned in a kayak ever take calmly to the waters again? Cookie overcomes a 30-year fear of kayaks, proving you can teach an old frightened dog a few new tricks. Join us by rickshaw or tuk-tuk, remembering to always explore, learn and live, and check us out Friday when we post for the weekend. www.whereiscookie.com

The Mob Museum in Las Vegas offers a fascinating departure from gambling, and a treasure trove of crime lore. MANIA FOR THE MOB: GRIT, GORE AND HANDS-ON EXHIBITS MAKE FOR FASCINATING, FUN VISIT TO SIN CITY MUSEUM Cookie peruses one of many user-friendly exhibits. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER GANGSTERS,  mafia bosses and their molls, booze, blood and bullets combine for a dose of criminal behavior -- and the guys and gals who went after the bad guys and girls. The Mob Museum offers all that and more. Get ready for a history of J. Edgar Hoover's relentless pursuit of crime bosses, wall-sized images of the St. Valentine's Day Massacre and other brutal murders. The well designed, user-friendly three-story treasure trove of memorabilia is an intensely orchestrated study of the evolution of crime. REMEMBER THE  gangster movies from the 1930s and '40s? ("You dirty rat.")  We grew up with them, and generations later, they still play well. And so does the Mob Museum. Crime -- unfolding through the acting of Jimmy Cagney, Edward G. Robinson, even Humphrey Bogart -- has always had an audience. Look up your favorite criminal in a wall of wanted posters. Known officially as the National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, this fascinating place bills itself as a history museum. It is that -- a nod to the colorful history of crime. Located in downtown Las Vegas, Nevada, near the "Old Las Vegas" sign, it's a 15 or 20-minute drive from The Strip, a pleasant diversion from the lure of the casinos. TODAY'S AUDIENCE  needs to be engaged, and the museum does that, through dozens of large and small inter-active exhibits.  You can be part of a line-up, take your medicine in an electric chair, knock at a speakeasy door. You'll discover more about crime than you'd ever think you wanted to know -- but it's all fascinating.  Emphasis is, of course, on the role Las Vegas has played through the years, with a nod to Bugsy Seigel and his Hollywood/Santa Monica connections. Pretend to meet your fate, as these two giggling friends are doing, as you are strapped into the electric chair. KELLER HAD  fun with the line-up, and I took a seat in the electric chair -- a truly creepy experience. Newsreels of actual crime busts and other police activity are interspersed with an array of weapons.  An intriguing gallery of photos makes the mobsters and their pursuers come alive. Videos tell various crime stories, as attractive displays await. And homage is paid to the movies -- from "The Godfather" to earlier, vintage flicks which glamorized the criminals and are still popular today. Hollywood's connection to  organized crime is explored. THE MOB  Museum is fun, but also startling in its detail and scope.  Statistics reveal the millions of dollars of laundered money, the thousands of brutal murders and power the mob once had.  One map shows the mob's concentration in major U.S. cities, and another interesting display traces the European roots of mob crime in America. You'll see the mobsters and crime bosses at play, too, enjoying their families, out for a day of pleasure.  If you dare, you can join the mafia yourself, taking a blood oath and pledging loyalty to the death!   The Las Vegas Mob Museum delivers the real deal in crime fighting history and technique. Viator can take you there, and for a tour of the city as well. Bruce Keller readies for his place in the line-up, with this "mug shot," at the Las Vegas Mob Museum. A STAFF  of nearly two dozen runs the mob museum, which reaches into the community with fund-raisers and special activities.  Summer camps for kids teach the evils and consequences of a life of crime. The museum sponsors a series of "Courtroom Conversations," moderated panel discussions exploring Las Vegas crime and law enforcement history.  And the lovely Triple George Grill down the street offers a three-course dinner fit for Don Corleone. It's $89 and includes Mob Museum admission. Go undercover to tackle high-finance fraud, money laundering, counterfeiting, murder and greed. The underworld never looked so inviting! Go to:  themobmuseum.org/   www.viator.com   The Lipinsky Festival presents top Jewish inspired entertainment, including Hershey Felder, left, who presents his Leonard Bernstein work, "Maestro." MORE TO ENJOY :  Don't miss the 23rd annual Lipinsky Jewish Arts Festival -- in several venues, including Encinitas and Oceanside, with many events downtown at the Lyceum Theater and San Diego Repertory Theater. A wonderful abundance of theater, readings, concerts, and more await. We rave about fiddler Yale Strom's Klezmer Summit Monday, which he dubs "JewGrass." Marvelous blend of klezmer, bluegrass, country and Yiddish song plus Hot Pstromi and the Jewish Men's Choir. Simply vunderlekh, this lively mix of presentations. Call 619 544-1000 or check this out for tickets to a delightful variety of events:   sdrep.org/jewish_festival.ph   From left, in "Stupid Fu**ing Bird," actors Rachel Esther Tate, Ro Boddie, KaroleForeman, Jacque Wilke, Francis Gercke, Brian Rickel, Walter Murray Photo by Nil Noyan It helps if you know something of the melodrama and darkness of Chekhov, but it really isn't essential. This contemporary "remix" of "The Seagull," is a high energy, provocative work at Cygnet Theater. It is so outrageous, so fresh and raging, that it can't help but entertain. A terrific cast brings playwright Aaron Posner's creation to life against a backdrop of generational disparities, debates about the meaning of life, art and love. (And what else is there in drama?) Clever dialogue and inventive staging provide an engaging time at the theater, through June 19. For tickets:  cygnettheatre.com/show/15-16/stupid-f--king-bird.htm NEXT WEEK  we take a spin with Viator tours, with tips on making the most of your travel time here or abroad. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Fridays when we post for the weekend.

The people of Oplontis, near Pompeii, lived well in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, until 79 AD, when they were buried by tons of falling ash. We viewed art and artifacts of leisure and luxury detailing the life of Rome's privileged citizens. One of the most opulent of Rome's luxury villas was Oplontis, the summer home  of Emperor Nero's second wife. Parts of it are on view through Dec. 31, Museum of the Rockies has an intriguing related  show in the Planetarium, exploring  possibilities of the lost Atlantis. A WEALTHY VILLA UNTIL VESUVIUS: VISIT LUSH LIFE OF ROME'S PRIVILEGED BEFORE ERUPTION ENDED IT ALL 2,000 YEARS AGO STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER LIFE WAS GOOD  for the people of Oplontis. Running water, prolific crops, lovely architecture and artwork, the comforts of civilized life. Even the servants seemed content. That is, until Vesuvius erupted, spewing tons of molten lava, burying the prosperous little village beneath 50 feet of ash. When ruins of the 79AD disaster were discovered recently during preparation for building of a gymnasium, scholars determined that the public would benefit from an exhibit sharing the remarkably preserved discovery. Dining salons which seated 100 people, private chambers with spectacular frescos, marble columns rising from elaborate mosaic floor were uncovered. The Museum's Living History Farm offers a unique opportunity to experience life as it existed decades ago in rural Montana. Volunteers dress in period costumes to discuss gardening, homemaking, cooking and crafts. THE MUSEUM  of the Rockies is one of three fortunate venues to host a remarkable new traveling exhibit, "The Villas of Oplontis." It details the splendid, privileged life of the aristocratic Roman enclave which lived well and happily in a lavish villa -- until Mount Vesuvius' catastrophic eruption. To warm us up for that, we spent a wonderful afternoon at the museum's other components, starting first at the Living History Farm, where a docent greeted us in a garden of raspberries, squash and lettuce, and invited us into the restored vintage farmhouse. Beautiful jewels, here bracelets with asp heads, were found clutched in the hands of the long buried dead. There, another volunteer in period dress crafted potholders from scraps of coats and dresses, explaining how homesteaders cooked and sewed and survived a century or two ago. WE'D PLANNED  our afternoon to take in the Planetarium show, which ties in nicely with the Oplontis exhibit. It explores the possibilities of the location of the lost Atlantis. Sitting back in the comfy chairs and gazing to the heavens, we discovered anew why this wonderful place is an internationally respected planetarium. A creative bison -- made of car parts, musical instruments and more, is part of a children's area upstairs. It combines whimsy with education. Then a stroll through the homage to the West, and a look at researchers working on artifacts behind a glass screen. WE  WATCHED  a short, well crafted "overview" video narrated by Dr. Regina Gee, an expert on frescoes and one of three primary researchers involved in the Oplontis excavation.  Based at MSU in Bozeman, Gee was instrumental in getting the exhibit to Montana. "Leisure and Luxury in the Age of Nero: The Villas of Oplontis near Pompei" is the elaborate handle of this fine show. Many talents helped make it a reality. Watching the careful process of working on fossils and other  finds is part of the fun and education of a visit to the Museum of the Rockies. MSU STUDENTS  assisted in recreating elaborate frescoes which adorned the walls of the luxury homes. Jewelry was discovered, taken hurriedly along with money by citizens as they fled for hoped for safety and rescue in vaults which were not discovered until recent times. The lavish dining rooms and private chambers were destroyed, along with their spectacular mosaic floors and grand marble columns.  The people left behind wines, oils, strong boxes of coins and artwork of a sophisticated civilization. The wealthy took their prized objects with them to the vault, hoping for a rescue that never came. The servants were found with their tools of trade, hoping to rebuild a life, should they be found before they perished. MSU and Dr. Gee deserve kudos for bringing this impressive exhibit from Italy. It remains on view through Dec. 31. We found it both moving and enlightening to share the life of these sophisticated but doomed citizens. We ended our day upstairs in less ponderous surroundings. Above Oplontis, we watched children romp in the museum's cleverly designed play area with whimsical animals of the forest -- assembled artistically with found household and garage items. Come with us next to Rio, with a look at this exciting city of the current  Olympics. We share photos and insights into lively Brazilian culture. UP NEXT : With all eyes on Rio, we share a recent trip to Brazil.  Come with us up Sugar Loaf, to Ipanema Beach, a rock-folk concert and a spectacular spice, fruit and vegetable market. Then while we're enjoying time in Montana and a particularly beautiful summer, we take a trip down Memory Lane to a fabulous restaurant in the shadow of the Beartooths above Red Lodge.  Old Piney Dell still delivers a superb meal, at Rock Creek Resort.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Friday afternoons when we post for each weekend.

Gratitude comes in family size for Christene "Cookie" Meyers, in center, surrounded by her clan of siblings, cousins, nieces, nephews, adopted family and the next generation. GATHER TOGETHER, ROLL MERRILY ALONG, COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS, BE GRATEFUL FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY Editor's Note: Our annual Thanksgiving essay is dedicated to our American friends and family and extended clan and pals abroad who celebrate their thanks on other days. Cookie and Grandpa Gus on Thanksgiving Day, 1950. (Gus is amused at Cookie's attempt to open a bottle of Coke with bare hands.) STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER (and from family archives) From Stephen Sondheim's "Merrily We Roll Along, in revival at Hudson Theatre, New York City, a story about friendship, change, loyalty, loss and gratitude. The three characters are a composer, playwright and theater critic. Yesterday is done, See the pretty countryside Merrily we roll along, roll along, Bursting with dreams...Traveling’s the fun, Flashing by the countryside Everybody merrily, merrily, Catching at dreams  WE SANG "Over the River and Through the Woods" years ago, to please our grandmother Olive who taught us the melody and lyrics. Today I'm humming Sondheim, whose musical, "Merrily We Roll Along," I saw during its short original run in 1981 and recently in a splendid revival. Perhaps it was ahead of its time, as director Hal Prince said 40 years ago. Now it is receiving raves and I know why. It's a story about love and enduring friendship. We need friends and family now more than ever, so celebrate them and let them know. We give thanks for our family, gathered to celebrate at our late summer wedding. I think of Gran Olive and the lessons she passed on. Thanksgiving came on the heels of her Nov. 19 birthday, so it was an extension of that -- a bonus time to play music, Scrabble, cribbage and pinochle, to visit, cook together, gossip and feast. Thanksgiving aboard Celebrity Century, with niece Amarylla, mum Ellen, sister Robbie, and Cookie. Friends were invited -- "strays," as gran called them. That included the Catholic priest, widowed neighbors, a favorite teacher -- divorced and alone -- and later college and newspaper friends whose families lived on the other side of the country. Gran's turkey wiggle recipe Cookie entertains on cruise ships, often during the Thanksgiving holidays. MY GRANDPARENTS  lived next door, so we didn't have far to go -- not "over the river" or "through the wood" but "down the steps and across the grass," our revised lyric. We were lucky to grow up with grandpa rents.  Having two homes was a luxury and our grandparents' plant and antique-filled house was safe haven from the tumult of our own hectic digs. But there was joy in the chaos of our home, and I miss the holiday activity -- rehearsing in the music room for our traditional after-dinner concert, the wallop of ping pong paddles and balls in the garage game room, the milkman's faithful trudge up the back steps bringing beverages, cheeses and butter right into the kitchen. I remember the reassuring slap of the morning paper against the front door, cats jumping on our beds to awaken us, dogs bringing their favorite fetch toys, fish to feed, plants to water, phone calls from those who couldn't make it. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in 2007, celebrating Thanksgiving at a Cuban restaurant. One of Gran's beautiful tables. OUR PARENTS  would chat and tease, making appetizers and drinks for their open house. Next door, Grandpa Gus whistled "Red River Valley" while helping gran Olive stuff and tie the bird. We relished that alluring smell of turkey roasting, pumpkin pies baking, her famous mincemeat cookies cooling. I was in charge of setting several tables in the dining room, living room and kitchen-- two or three small ones for the kids. Granddad carved after sharpening his knife on a slick black stone. Then, a weekend of leisurely prepared leftovers, including gran's famous "Turkey Wiggle." Everyone raided the frig for sandwiches -- turkey, cranberry, mayonnaise, lettuce, cheese, stuffing, sweet potatoes and pear chutney. Tupperware with green and black olives, radishes, dill pickles, cucumber chips. IT ALL SEEMS very Norman Rockwell, a "Father Knows Best" recollection.  Naturally, our lives were more complex than that. There were arguments, losses, At left, Thanksgiving for Keller and Cookie is usually on the road, here in the Bellagio, on the Las Vegas strip. disappointments, illness, sorrow. As I grew older, married and embarked on my newspaper career, there were more empty chairs at the family's home table. The loss of two husbands, three siblings, parents and grandparents has changed my holidays. For Keller and me, Thanksgiving means a trip somewhere. Siblings and friends are scattered across the U.S., so as our Thanksgivings split into smaller groups, not one massive gathering as in days of yore, we hit the road. THIS THANKSGIVING,  we're exploring in Kauai. We'll soon be relaxing with my Georgia sister and brother-in-law, meeting a pair of great nephews, enjoying our southern family. I'm thankful for memories -- corny, sentimental, glorified by time, knighted by my affection for those departed and still on Earth. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, thankful for theater. SO LET US CELEBRATE  friendships and family, those old and deep bonds with people we may not see or talk to except on holidays but hold dear in our hearts and memories.    We're thankful to be fit enough to exercise, walk, travel, explore the world. We're thankful for our recent honeymoon to Europe, and the hope that we have many traveling years ahead. NOW, BOTH Keller and I are orphans, the senior members of our families -- his small one and my giant, scattered clan. We miss our elders and sometimes don't feel ready for our positions. This photo is from Thanksgiving 2021: We'll be back in Atlanta soon to celebrate with David and Misha Minesinger, Georgia based sister and brother-in-law. Our friends feel the same -- all miss their families and carry sentimental memories of Thanksgiving Day. Although I've not been a regular church goer for decades, I always play this wonderful old Dutch hymn on the nearest piano -- whether on a ship, or a host's home Thanksgiving on the Napali Coast, 2022. Give thanks for the beauty of nature. We gather together to ask the Lord’s blessing He chastens and hastens His will to make known; The wicked oppressing now cease from distressing; Sing praises to His Name; He forgets not His own. FOR ALL our blessings, I am thankful: health, travel, music, nature, friends, family. In my heart, I have Thanksgiving 365 days a year. Richmond's Georgian Theatre Royal in Richmond, Yorkshire, is England's longest running theater, dating to 1899, with a few years of silence during the war and when the building served other purposes. It is beautifully restored and a grand, popular venue. UP NEXT : Richmond's Theatre Royal is the oldest still operational theater in England, a charming, small venue where regular performances and concerts are held as they have been since 1899.  Known officially as the Georgian Theatre Royal, it opened with "As You Like It" and continues to offer classical works, concerts and a variety of productions including a recent sold-out presentation of  "The Buddy Holly Story." We sat for a few minutes in the "Royal Box" where we admired the stage and house of the country's oldest working theatre in its original form. It is both a thriving community playhouse and a living theater museum. Remember to explore, learn, live!

The Allen Elizabethan Theatre features a classical setting for three plays each season at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Three theaters offer a dozen plays for the 2019 season, a far-reaching variety from "Macbeth" to "Hairspray." ASHLAND, OREGON FEATURES WORLD CLASS FESTIVAL, CABARET, FINE HOTELS, LOVELY PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Allen Elizabethan Theater will feature "Macbeth" while the Thomas Theatre features "How to Catch Creation." View from a suite at Ashland Hills Hotel, a beautiful way to preface or follow a play.  Rogue Valley surroundings are peaceful and picturesque. SEEING TEN PLAYS  in a week can be a downright dizzying experience. But it's energizing, intriguing, and fun. Ashland, Oregon's world famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival brings out the theater buff in even the unwashed.  But for lifelong devotees, the festival offers a stimulating banquet of delights. For me, the festival represents a half-century plus of family trips to Ashland, to immerse ourselves in world class theater in a setting dear to our collective heart. THANKS TO  an enterprising visionary, Scotsman Angus Bowmer, we frequent the  festival in an arts-friendly, walkable town. Bowmer lived in the Rogue Valley long before World War II, championing theater and building interest in a small offering of plays.  Through his persistence and clever promotion, his 1934 dream became a flourishing festival. Thank the drama gods that clever Bowmer devised a way for the town's popular boxing matches to fund his deeper passion, theater. Today his name graces one The Bowmer Theater lobby readies for a performance. of the festival's three very different venues. The Allen Elizabethan Theatre and Thomas Theatre are the other two venues. Ashland relies on theater to keep its impressive number of shops and restaurants afloat. BELOVED LITHIA  Park near the complex welcomes strollers, who find high-quality buskers entertaining and beautiful birds, trees and water to enjoy. A quality pair of sister hotels leads the parade of fine places to stay: the historic and beautifully appointed Ashland Springs Hotel downtown, and the pretty Ashland Hills Hotel and Suites, a quick mile from the center of the action in a beautiful hillside setting. Strollers in Lithia Park pause to enjoy Bach played by a world class cellist, one of many treats in Ashland. The festival's first production, the bard's "Twelfth Night,"  has been performed many times and Bowmer's shoestring  e nterprise now boasts a budget of more than $40 million. The festival enhances the state's economy, last year contributing more than $128 million. Our family is part of the 88 per cent of theater goers who travel more than 125 miles to attend the Festival. We've chatted in the Bowmer, beneath a portrait of the founder, with friends from our two favorite hotels.  Fellow guests come from as far away as England and Canada, and many U.S. states to the Tony-winning festival. AND WHILE  Shakespeare is still offered -- this season a brilliant "Othello" and "Henry V" -- there are stimulating new plays, and fresh takes on old favorites for 798 performances. This year, we enjoyed a spirited, gay version of "Oklahoma" -- the romances featured two same-sex pairs. Known for its daring casting, OSF's "Oklahoma" featured two same-sex couples. Here Curly talks to Aunt Ellen -- photo courtesy OSF Luna is a relaxing place to unwind for a bite at Ashland Hills Hotel,  with tasty food, pleasant environment.  Curly was a woman and Ado Annie was a guy, Ado Andy. OSF thinks outside the box, pushes the envelope in gender-bending ways, expanding possibilities with interesting ethnic casting and a rejection of cliches and party-line interpretations.  Next season's line-up will offer the Broadway hit "Hairspray" for its musical, and "Macbeth" will be presented in the outdoor theater, along with "All's Well That Ends Well" and a musical "Alice in Wonderland." Cookie enjoys a sip of water from an iconic fountain in the center of Ashland. The water is supposed to be healthy, full of minerals. A DARING,  inventive recent play, "Indecent," which we saw in its world premier at the La Jolla Playhouse, runs in the Bowmer along with "Between Two Knees" in the Thomas. "As You Like It" plays the Bowmer, too." Something old, something new, that's OSF. Backstage tours, lectures, forums, and a popular Green Show enhance.   Oregon Cabaret Theatre offers a pleasant addition to the theater scene in Ashland. For more than three decades, the Cabaret has offered first-rate dinner theater.  Shakespeare one afternoon, a classic drama that evening. Musical theater the next afternoon.  A new, cutting edge play at night, a bite to eat, a rest, another play or two. Members have a beautiful lounge in which to relax and enjoy a beverage and snack. Memberships are as little as $35, a wonderful way to support this imaginative endeavor. DINNER THEATER  is alive and well in Ashland, too.  Oregon Cabaret Theater entertains in an historic, welcoming setting -- with a fine menu and famous desserts. This picturesque little town of Ashland has a thriving dinner theater, one of the country's most successful.  And it performs on Monday when OSF is dark. Steps from the Festival in a beautifully converted church, the Cabaret personifies Ashland's blend of sophistication and appeal. We have been devotees of the Cabaret as long as we've been coming to the Shakespeare Festival.  It never fails to entertain, and the food is delightful. This year's "Picasso at the Lapin Agile" featured a tasty French inspired menu.  The holiday show looks wonderful and the run has just been extended. The cabaret -- like Ashland itself -- satisfies both town and gown tastes, delighting all the senses. osfashland.org .; theoregoncabaret.com ; ashlandhillshotel.com ; ashlandspringshotel.com Cookie, right in the red plaid, and her niece, Amarylla, with her two youngsters, James and Peny, enjoy Filoli. UP NEXT:  Filoli is decked out for the holidays. The extraordinary country house south of San Francisco is set in 16 acres of formal gardens on the eastern slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The house is celebrating the season with color and light and a fresh new take on holiday decor in every room. The spectacular gardens are open during this magical time with special holiday touches by day and elegant lighting in the evening. Find out who owned this magnificent estate and how a visit has become such a popular tradition for thousands in the Bay Area and beyond. Artisan markets and entertainment, delightful food and even horses make an outing a family friendly event. Nest Café.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and living outside the box.

When the hotel siren sings seductive songs, answer the call and book yourself in! Las Vegas has some of the world's top hotels, and the Strip is home to many of them.   Our travelers like hotels  that reflect their cities. Here, gaudy glitter appeals -- as shown by New York New York's mimicking skyline. Today, we begin a three-part look at some of our favorite hotels, highlighting a few of the world's top ranked properties, and why they appeal. The series continues with our next two posts. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I LOVE  a grand hotel. Give me a room with a view, a comfy king bed, tasteful decor with eye-catching art and 24-hour room service. Slippers, a robe, deep bathtub, wine chilling and I'm in heaven. The Spanish Steps in Rome drew our travelers to the Hassler. My love affair with fine hotels began as a teen when my grandmother invited me to spend the night at the Northern Hotel in Billings.  I remember plush red velvet curtains in the dining room -- giving it the look of a bordello (although I didn't know what bordellos were in those days). The ambiance was romantic and although I was too young to appreciate that aspect of grand hotels, I drank it in.  Couples danced to jazz in the bar where we had a drink -- cokes for me and my sister, bourbon for Gran. An organist played tango music in the lobby as we entered the elevator and as we stepped into the suite, we delighted in fresh flowers, a huge bathroom, separate sitting area and chocolates on the pillow. MY GRANDPARENTS  were regulars at the hotel and the manager made certain we were upgraded. The sleek Altis Belem in Lisbon is a  stylish, contemporary hotel within walking distance to the Belem Tower, a Lisbon landmark. A welcoming outdoor cafe beckons guests to drink in the waterfront air. So there we three were, perusing the room service menu in the Northern, having a slumber party in our robes. Gran, my sister Peny and I ordered French dip sandwiches, shrimp cocktail, fruit platters and creme brule. We watched TV until midnight -- "Seventy-Seven Sunset Strip" -- and nibbled on our room service.   After a day of music lessons and a matinee (it was "Psycho," and the infamous Bates Motel bore no resemblance to our palatial digs in the Northern) we lazed about. THAT WAS in the early 1960s, and in the 50 years since then, I've developed a "10 Best Hotels." My ranking system is purely personal and entirely subjective.  I consider my initial impression and the treatment we receive at registration.  I consider my first impression of the hotel's design -- is the art tasteful and calming. Does the room provide a view -- of the park, the ocean, or something equally pleasing. Does the bellman offer to bring ice right away? Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia is a reason to pick a hotel within walking distance. IS THE CONCIERGE  available for booking theater tickets or city tours? If we're on a club floor, are there liberal hours, with breakfast and afternoon hors d'oeuvres. If we're in a new city or unknown part of town, safety is a consideration. I want a coffee maker with good coffee, a newspaper delivered in the morning and left discreetly out the door.  I want a robe and slippers, a good restaurant within the hotel or within easy walking distance, a frig for chilling the wine, a big bathtub for soaking.  I ask for a map at registration and determine if we can easily and safely walk to the beach, park, theater, festival, museum or bistro. (In Ashland, Oregon, the Ashland Springs is a block from the three-theater Oregon Shakespeare Festival.) I love neighborhoods, and hotels with character make themselves part of the neighborhood. We were steps from the Gaudi House and Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona's Ayre Hotel and could gaze daily at their intricate mosaics. In Las Vegas, I like to look down on the strip,  watching the New York Skyline light up or strolling a few blocks to gaze upon the Eifel Tower, Vegas style of course. Rome's fabled Trevi Fountain is walking distance from the famous Hassler Hotel, which attracts our travelers for its elegance and proximity. MY FAVORITE  hotels have unique features, charming touches, special appeal.. The Dorchester in London was a favorite of Elizabeth Taylor's. Rock stars and classical musicians love it. Members of the Royal Family have wined and dined in its glamorous banquet rooms. Hyde Park is across the street and Mayfair with its shops and eateries awaits. The Hotel Westminster in Paris has location in spades - - you're out the door a few blocks to the magical monuments and museums of Paris. The Le Meridien Bora Bora has bungalows on the water with glass floors for viewing manta rays and brightly colored schools of fish. The hotel says, "You're in French Polynesia now.  Relax, enjoy." The Ashland Springs Hotel in Ashland, Oregon, is steps away from the city's internationally known Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The Grand Hyatt Sao Paulo has the feeling of Brazil in its native inspired artwork and an international clientele to appreciate its woodwork and service. The Hassler in Rome atop the Spanish Steps has proximity to many of Rome's historical delights, including a short walk to the fabled Trevi Fountain.  It also boasts stunning, old-world architecture and is filled with beautiful tapestries, fountains and paintings. Just a pleasant taxi ride out the door of Sao Paulo's elegant Grand Hyatt, Cookie and Keller enjoy the market. I like hotels that reflect their city's environment. In Lisbon, we love the Altis Belem, for its gorgeous harbor view on the Tagus River and its contemporary design. It's also a short walk to the Belem Castle and Monument of Discoveries, both world landmarks. The Altis Belem exhibits the city's rich connection to the sea. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok displays fine taste and elegance with a tux-clad string quartet in the lobby. The 1904 Gaudi House in Barcelona is a draw to our travelers, who chose a nearby, elegant hotel. In Teton Village, closer to home, the Alpenhof offers old-world service in a spectacular setting. Alpine inspired paintings and a gourmet breakfast are two of the enticements, along with genuinely friendly welcome. When people say, "Who cares where we stay? We're never in our room," I disagree. I spend hours in my room.  It's part of my vacation. I care very much where I stay. I want my hotel to be beautiful, full of charm and beauty, reflective of the culture of the city it inhabits. COMING  SATURDAY : More about why we like specific hotels and what entices us and keeps us loyal. Location, location, location is part of the charm. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us our Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Oversized European soaking tubs, eco-friendly products, robes and slippers await at Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle. Room with a view, attentive staff, location, amenities all figure in choosing your hotel   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A five-star hotel should offer uniqueness and elegance. GOOD HOTELS  are plentiful. Grand hotels are not. Truly "great hotels" have elegance and uniqueness, eccentricities and special touches that make us feel pampered. Perhaps a rooftop terrace with stunning panorama, beautiful tapestries, eye-catching doors, spacious bedrooms with good reading lights a separate sitting area, original works of art, and luxurious courtyards or lobbies. Spectacular views and individual glass-floor bungalows over the water make Le Meridien Bora Bora a  prestige hotel. They should reflect the culture of their region.  In Turkey, you'll want to be reminded of the Ottoman influence with brass beds and plush carpets. In French Polynesia, the island life and creatures of the deep should be emphasized.  In Rome, Florence, Paris, London, Madrid or Barcelona, you'll want to feel the blend of history and style. The balance of old-fashioned luxury with a relaxed atmosphere is not easily accomplished, but top hotels achieve it. THE CACHET  of a four or five-star hotel has to do with what it offers and how it delivers. WHAT DETERMINES  a top hotel and what are a few of our favorites?  How are they rated? Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia in its Gothic glory is within walking distance of a range of quality hotels. Hotels are generally ranked from one-star -- the simplest accommodation -- to five-star, which implies luxury, superlative service, and the highest standards of comfort. Five-star hotels offer originality in architecture and design, high-grade materials in construction and decor (marble bathrooms, antique furniture) and special touches such as fresh flowers and plants.  Style must not trump substance. Fine hotels court the traveler, just as cruise ships attract with their distinctive style, amenities and design features. AS WITH  the world's top cruise lines -- Crystal, Oceania, Seabourn for example -- prestige hotel properties maintain a high staff-to-guest ratio, gourmet dining, and 24-hour room service. Guest rooms offer ample space, fine furnishings and decor, premium bedding, and luxury bath products. Room amenities  generally include high-speed Internet access and CD and/or DVD players. Many five-star resorts offer additional recreation facilities such as tennis courts, golf-course access, spa services, a top-notch fitness center, and pools. Fine hotels in Europe's ancient cities often tout proximity to famous landmarks, such as Rome's iconic Trevi Fountain. Rome's best hotels are located within easy walk to its historical sights and ancient public fountains. THE TERM "five star hotel" is associated with the ultimate luxury and, by implication, expense. We've stayed in plenty of three- and even some two-star hotels, which can be good finds with convenient locations and period architecture.  In Rome, for instance, the Accademia is delightful.  Owned by a small group, Travelroma, it is a pretty little boutique hotel near Trevi  Fountain.  For about 60-100 Euros more, you may choose the five-star Eden, a quick stroll to the famous Via Veneto. The Trastevere is two-star in the lively Trastevere district of Rome, with 20 small and pretty rooms. San Francisco's Hotel Diva near Union Square, offers style, pet and kid focus and  a sense of playfulness in decor. THE OMNI  in Los Angeles blends old-world elegance with modern amenities, as befitting Los Angeles. In San Francisco, Hotel Diva boasts  style and personality in spades -- and dog friendly rooms for Nick and Nora.  The three-star Scalinata di Spagna in Rome sits at the top of the Spanish Steps near Keats' house, has charming rooms and a picturesque rooftop garden.  So do your shopping. The hotel business suffers from a lack of standardization which allows marketing-driven inflation.  A few hotels claim six stars and a distinctive Dubai Hotel, the Burj al- Arab, promoted  itself as "the world's first seven-star hotel" for a time. The distinctive shape of Burj al-Arab attracts Dubai's international clientele. WELL ESTABLISHED prestige hotels are usually content to claim the traditional five. There's actually no international ratings body, so hotels can claim as many stars as they like. That's where homework comes in.  Check references, as you would when hiring.  To achieve the five-star standard, a property must be consistently good over a long period. Hotel reviewers and travel professionals who rank hotels look for these winning qualities:  discreet and attentive service, complimentary house car and VIP transfer services, personalization -- "getting to know you" touches such as remembering your name, excellent bed with support a high-thread count sheets such as Frette. (Ritz-Carlton, Grand Hyatt, Sofitel and Four Seasons are excellent.) Grand Hyatt Sao Paulo in Brazil offers roomy elegance. ALSO IMPORTANT  to critics are the property's food, drink and room service (a buffet breakfast included in the price is a draw). A good in-room coffee maker is desirable. A room with a view is a big draw -- here of Sao Paulo lit up at night. And my personal pet peeve is powdered creamer. Awful.  I love finding small half-and-half containers in the mini bar. A comfy bathroom is important and I enjoy finding luxurious, eco-friendly amenities such as offered in Seattle's "green thinking" Pan Pacific Hotel -- along with slippers, robes, flowers, soaking tub and spectacular Space Needle views. PEOPLE WHO  travel with pets or children are being increasingly courted by the hotel industry. The travelers' male Yorkie, Nick, enjoys his stay at the Omni Los Angeles. Omni Hotels offer pet floors and many boutique hotels pamper your pooch with gifts and treats. The Los Angeles Omni brought a bag of goodies and a pretty little stainless steel water bowl for our Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Four Seasons is kid friendly. Children can feed the koi in Bali's Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. AN ATTENTIVE  concierge is essential. During our annual pilgrimage to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Gigi, at the lovely boutique inn, Ashland Springs Hotel, helped us choreograph dinners and tickets to the popular Chocolate Festival. I plan most of our trip details myself, but when I need an efficient concierge, I want someone who can score a last-minute theater ticket, as our concierge at Hotel Diva did in a  recent San Francisco stay. Rome's many piazzas and baroque showpieces are within walking distance of  its myriad hotels.  MANY GREAT  cities, such as Barcelona, offer an enticing array of variously "starred" hotels -- we've enjoyed the Ritz Carlton Arts, Majestic, Hilton, Princess and others. Decide what you want then see which one delivers it to your personal desires. I'm not much of a poolside basker, but pools are important in the tropics and in many of the world's great locales. Le Meridien Bora Bora has one of the prettiest, if you can pull yourself away from your glass floor view of the wonders of underwater life. JUST AS  Rome wasn't built in a day, top rankings don't  materialize overnight. The hotel industry knows that a property must earn its kudos. It also knows that negative word of mouth can have a devastating effect.  Most professionals agree that quality, service and consistency are primary considerations, but that all the extras count. The attractive Alpenhof Lodge in Teton Village is up next. COMING WEDNESDAY:   Our look at top hotels continues with a visit to Teton Village and its Alpenhof Lodge, which combines old-world European service with fine food, quaint rooms, friendly staff, mountain setting and an appealing full breakfast in a nicely decorated room with a view. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Murray's classic style includes nods to Montana and the west, with a contemporary flair. Elegance, comfort and western suggestions abound, with artful accents. HISTORIC BUILDING OFFERS HISTORY, COLOR, AMENITIES, COMFORT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF A BUILDING  can give and receive love, then Livingston, Montana's Murray Hotel is a veritable Valentine of mortar, imagination and memories. The venerable historic hotel -- a favorite of my family when I was growing up in the 1950s -- has history, chutzpah and plenty of heart. But by the 1970s, the building had begun to languish.  Built 110 years ago, it needed paint, plywood, carpets, modernized plumbing, and plenty more. Dan and Kathleen Kaul to the rescue. They transformed the four-story building with love and money, tastefully restoring it with a sense of humor and abundant style. "Check your guns at the front desk," the vintage sign suggests. The Murray Hotel is a Livingston icon, with a colorful history and immaculate restoration of its rooms. ONE WELL  known movie director, the late Sam Peckinpah, obviously didn't heed the warning, because the suite he favored still has the bullet holes he shot through the ceiling after, we presume, an ample dose of firewater. Personal touches are part of the landscape and lore of the Murray. Since its grand opening in 1904, the Murray Hotel’s guest registry has read like a who’s who of history and Hollywood. Celebrities such as Buffalo Bill and Calamity Jane have graced the threshold of what was once an elegant railroad hotel. The Murray was also home to Walter Hill, son of railroad tycoon, James J. Hill. More recently, colorful personalities like motion-picture director Peckinpah rented what had been the largest suite in the place, designed for a creature-comfort-loving heir to the Burlington railroad fortune. ROYALTY  have bedded down at the Murray, too. The Queen of Denmark once spent the night, but no one seems to know if she was amused or impressed.  Humorist Will Rogers and his buddy Walter Hill liked the place so well they decided to share its splendor with their favorite saddle horse, hauling him up to a third floor suite, via the hand-cranked, 1905 Otis elevator. WE TRANSPORTED our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, in this delightful vestige of bygone days on a trip to the Murray last week. It was their third or fourth visit to the dog-friendly Murray -- our 15th or so -- and we tried a suite we'd not visited before, one with a pleasant fishing and angling motif. Fishing memorabilia -- part of the charm. Each suite has a different motif. We were on the second floor, and knew we'd hear the railroad whistle a couple times during the night -- the station is just across the street.  But I decided to forego the convenient earplugs, and enjoy the nostalgic sound of the freight trains.  No problem.  I liked it, having grown up with that comforting and musical sound.. Look closely and you'll see two Yorkshire terriers cuddled in the tapestry and armchair. We also wanted to watch Ken Burns' magnificent "Roosevelts" series on PBS.  No problem.  We had a fine TV, comfy chairs and a frig for chilling our wine.  Many of the suites have microwaves and frigs since some are designed as condos and privately owned.  When the owners aren't visiting, the public is welcome to enjoy. Our fisherman's suite had all kinds of angler's memorabilia -- a poster on dozens of trout, paddles artfully arranged on the wall, fishing signs, and beautiful pillows and tapestries of fish, bears and birds of the northern Rockies. THE KAULS'  sense of community pride is apparent at other places in Livingston.  The enterprising couple has purchased many buildings and rentals, owns a tasteful furniture store with beautiful western and log tables, chairs and more, and they have restored and refurbished rentals. But the Murray is the most visible and ambitious of their endeavors. THEIR CAPABLE,  well trained staff will gladly guide you to one of Livingston's eateries, including the next-door Second Street Bistro, with its extensive wine list. gourmet appetizers and inventive main course offerings.  The Bistro was packed inside and at the streetside cafe tables. And on the hotel's other end, the Murray Bar was packed, too, with live country and rock music, and a crowd of locals and tourists enjoying the fishing lore on the walls and reasonably priced cocktails and beer. THE MURRAY is proud of its celebrity roster -- those famous folks who have shared space and rubbed elbows with cowpokes, railroaders, and other travelers and locals. Livingston continues to attract a steady stream of writers, musicians, movie stars and history lovers. A fellow writer stopped us in the parking lot to admire Nick and Nora.  He knew they were named after the famous husband-wife detective team of "The Thin Man." Myrna Loy, a native Montanan, and William Powell, played the dapper Nick and Nora Charles. The California man, who was working on a piece on historic U.S. hotels for a guidebook, said, "Ah, it's good to know we have Mr. and Mrs. Charles in residence." COMING UP:  Rip roarin' fun awaits the theater lover at the Jackson Hole Playhouse, where "Paint Your Wagon" is packing in appreciate houses. More about this historic, nearly century-old venue. And we're on to the Wapiti Valley, a last gasp for autumn in the Tetons and more.  We strive for a sense of fun and discovery in our pieces!  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com

Five versatile actors deftly portray 42 colorful characters in a delightful production of "Around the World in 80 Days" held over at North Coast Repertory Theatre. Prepare for a brilliant theatrical trip by boat, train and imagination. FABULOUS THEATER DELIVERS AS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA    PREVIEWS THEATRE WEEK WITH LIVELY MIX OF TOP PRODUCTIONS          Katherine Ko as Tong, Ben Levin as Quang in San Diego Rep's funny, sad, fascinating production of "Vietgone," a fast-paced melange of war, family, social trials and love. STORY By CHRISTENE   MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy San Diego theaters THERE'S MORE TALENT in San Diego than one can shake a maestro's baton at. On any given evening, choose from nearly three dozen theatrical offerings -- musicals, comedies, dramas, period pieces, classics and cleverly crafted world premiers. WE ARE REVELING  in a romp on the boards to preview San Diego Theatre week, Feb. 15-25. Cygnet Theatre in Old Town features a drama about the last wife of Henry VIII Reduced tickets are offered for 29 venues. Check out the websites of these highlights we're sampling, and more: Kate Rose Reynolds, left, and Andrea Agosto perform flawless roles in Diversionary Theatre's challenging "Cardboard Piano."  *  "Around the World in 80 Days." North Coast Repertory Theatre. Watch suave adventurer Phileas Fogg circle the globe with his faithful and flamboyant servant,  encountering danger, romance and comic turns.  Stylish direction and dazzling costume changes showcase the versatile Will Vought, Loren Lester, Omri Schein,  Lovlee Carroll  and Richard Baird as they brilliantly deliver 42 eccentric and loveable characters.  Through Feb. 11.  northcoastrep.org The Lyceum in Horton Plaza is home to San Diego Repertory Theatre. * "Vietgone."  San Diego Repertory Theatre. Bold, sexy, funny love story is delightfully acted, mixing rap music, motorcycles, comic book aesthetics and martial arts with a thought-provoking story of race, war and surviving by one's wits.  As a family flees from Vietnam at war's end, it faces struggles and stereotypes in America with humor and heart.  Through Feb. 18. At the Lyceum.  sdrep.org *  "The Last Wife."  Cygnet Theatre. Engaging, wonderfully acted historical fiction about the only wife to survive the tempers and whims of Henry VIII.  The title references the audacious king's sixth and final wife, Katherine Parr, whose brains, bravado and quick thinking kept her head on her shoulders. Nimble direction and fine writing give new life to a nearly 500-year-old period, with contemporary twists. Through Feb. 11. In Old Town.  cygnettheatre.com Manny Fernandes and Allison Spratt-Pearce deliver star work in "The Last Wife" at Cygnet Theatre in Old Town. Danny Stiles, left, and Steven Freitas are down-on-their-luck workers who scheme a strip act in "The Full Monty" at SDMT. *  "The Full Monty." San Diego Musical Theatre. An endearing company of guys play a sextet of unemployed Buffalo steel workers who decide to pay their bills by taking it all off. Raucous humor, a sassy female ensemble; endearing, catchy pop-rock score deliver thumbs-up stage version of the hit 1997 hit film proving there's more to a first-rate performance than perfect body types. SDMT is a bravura grassroots effort of a musical-loving local couple! Through Feb. 25 at Horton Grand.  sdmt.org *   "Cardboard Piano."   Diversionary Theatre. A teen-age daughter of an American missionary falls in love with a local teenage girl in Northern Uganda. They marry in secret, circa 2000, before civil unrest upends their lives. Diversionary again pushes the envelope with four fine actors, in an absorbing, sometimes shocking play which confronts weighty issues: same-sex relationships, intolerance, America’s relationship with Africa and the human capacity for forgiveness. Through Feb. 25.  diversionary.org La Jolla Playhouse has introduced many musicals and plays that go on to Broadway *"The Cake."  La Jolla Playhouse .  Rely on top-drawer work at the theater co-founded by Gregory Peck. LJPH's current drama drama also explores same-sex marriage.  The play has humor, pathos, sharp direction and an almost edible set. The storyline features a  a native North Carolina woman returning home from New York to ask her late mother's best friend to make her wedding cake. Beliefs are challenged, old values take on new clothes and the notion of love is explored as two brides head for the altar. Through March 4. At the Potiker Theatre. lajollaplayhouse.org Check out   SanDiegoTheatreWeek.com  for more details and offers. Wherever you are, support local theater. A well trained group of docents from Birch Aquarium educates enthusiastic whale watchers as Flagship follows the great gray whale's southern migration. UP NEXT :  We've a  whale of a tale to tell you, with our latest adventure in search of the great migrating gray whales.  We got up close with several mothers this week -- and even a newborn -- on their way south to the Baja's warm waters with Flagship's fine whale watching tour.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at the  arts, nature, family and travel. To book,  flagshipsd.com

Christmas morning on Hawaii, "the Big Island," presents a double rainbow to passengers aboard a Body Glove trip down the Kona coast. Today begins a two-part series on holiday wish lists.    bodyglovehawaii.com                                                                                                                                                     YULETIDE GREETINGS FROM AROUND THE WORLD! CONSIDER PLANNING A BUCKET LIST TRIP AS THE OLD YEAR ENDS AND A NEW ONE BECKONS DREAMS Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers afloat last Christmas. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The holidays in Hawaii are always colorful.  In downtown Honolulu, Nutcrackers surround a  merry Christmas tree and shop windows herald the arrival of Santa and his reindeer. IF YOU'RE HOME this Christmas, enjoy! But if you're yearning to kick the holiday up a notch, consider spending Christmas elsewhere next year.  Start planning now to get the best prices. Holiday hotels often sell out and prices increase for air as time gets closer. Here are a few ideas to jump start your dream. At Oscar's in Palm Springs, every day is a holiday with great shows and lively crowds. MUSEUMS and aquariums make wonderful family outings during the holidays and two of the finest we've visited are in Hawaii and New Zealand:                       New Zealand's Te Papa Museum  Honolulu's Bishop Museum   IF YOU love music, Vienna has one of the world's most famous chorales, the Vienna Boys' Choir. Their Christmas concerts will give you happy goosebumps. This venerable Austrian city offers of Skiing is a huge winter draw and favorite holiday pursuit in many western states, here Montana . delightful old-fashioned Christmas with sparkling holiday decorations and warming, fragrant gluhwein. The city boasts gorgeous imperial architecture. Outdoor Christmas markets display hand crafted ornaments and a bounty of tasty snacks. www.wien.info          Yuletide worldwide A tour guide in the tropics dons his Santa hat for a holiday tour. IN PALM  Springs, the Living Desert Zoo and Botanical Garden in nearby Palm Desert is a magical place.  More than 750,000 twinkling lights illuminate the park after dark, and it's a wonderful way to see the critters. The city's WildLights Holiday Festival is a drive-through holiday tradition to delight locals, tourists and families. Our favorite venue there is Oscar's Bar and Cafe, a lively cabaret fun any time.  The yuletide is special, though, with a delightful docket of drag shows with holiday flair.   livingdesert.org ; oscarspalmsprings.org Las Vegas was our choice for a recent New Year's Eve, here at the Bellagio. IN MY HOME state of Montana, skiing is a big winter attraction. Everyone knows Colorado has a lucrative corner on winter sports, but the Treasure State also offers resorts, B&Bs and a wide range of lodging at Big Sky, Whitefish, Bridger Bowl, Red Lodge and elsewhere. Lift tickets are cheaper, too, than in more famous resorts. SINCE KEVIN   Costner's TV's smash "Yellowstone," my beloved state has become a "bucket list" favorite for tourists, but there are still sanctuaries and unspoiled terrain to be found if you do your homework.  If you're a cross-country skier, Whitefish is close to Glacier National Park and its spectacular mountains. Glacier's breathtaking switchbacks and splendid cross-country skiing are tops. Happily, it's not yet "discovered."  In nearby Wyoming, Jackson Hole Fireworks are a big draw in many destinations, here on Waikiki Beach. Mountain Resort is a beautiful ski destination in the spectacular Grand Tetons. To access skiing in these two states, you can easily fly into Billings or Cody and rent a car. And Bozeman has many flights now, including a non-stop from Atlanta which my southern family uses. www.visitmt.com ; jacksonhole.com Vienna is a wonderful place for a holiday visit. Palaces, parks and churches are aglow and a renowned choir awaits to serenade you.  LOOK ON the internet for fun Christmas vacation ideas for families.  You'll find hundreds of ideas, of cities, towns and villages across the world offering everything from beach basking to winter sports.  Most tourist destinations have winter festivals and an opportunity to visit Santa. There are movie nights with holiday themes, tree lighting and fireworks festivals on New Year's Eve. One of the most spectacular fireworks events we've experienced is in Hawaii, on Waikiki Beach at Hilton's Hawaiian Resort. www.hiltonhawaiianresort.com Strasbourg in France goes all out for holiday light displays. EUROPEAN CITIES  and villages have celebrated the holidays for centuries. You'll find Christmas Markets from Vienna, Austria, to Cologne, Nuremberg and Freiburg in Germany, Ghent and Brussels in Belgium, and Prague in Czech Republic. Copenhagen in Denmark and many small Norwegian towns also have fabulous holiday displays.  We spent one yuletide in Bergen and Alesund on a Viking cruise and loved the festive immersion. Strasbourg in France shows off its local wares and goodies at Europe's oldest and most lavish market with Christkindelsmarik, dating to 1570. Performers tell the "Christ story" in elaborate costumes making the city a top Christmas destination. www.europeanbestdestinations.com/christmas-markets/ About to tuck into trdlenik in Czech Republic are Bruce Keller and Cookie. Vienna and Prague offer delightful old-fashioned Austrian and Czech Christmas spirit. Both are known for magnificent Gothic architecture, a spirit of gracious welcome and unique folkloric traditions. These two magnificent cities create an other-worldly feeling at their famed Christmas markets. Shoppers find beautifully decorated wooden huts filled with treats, unique craft gift items and ornaments for next year's tree. My favorite delicacy is spit-roasted ham. Keller loved trdelnik, a traditional hot sugar-coated pastry with nuts and cinnamon. IF YOU   really want to feel close to old Santa, head for Rovaniemi - Lapland, Finland. Rovaniemi is just north of the Arctic Circle and Finns believe it makes a better home for Santa than the North Pole. You'll meet Kris Kringle in this frozen winter wonderland of deep snow and pine forests where kids make cookies with Mrs. Claus and enroll in Elf School. Families enjoy husky-dog rides, tobogganing and the Northern Lights. For a super frosty stay, check into the Arctic Snowhotel, made entirely of ice, with has an ice bar, ice restaurant, ice chapel, Finnish sauna, and snow sauna. Are you packed yet? www.arcticsnowhotel.fi/en/ Cygnet Theatre's multi-talented Sean Murray plays an endearing Scrooge in the theater's popular "A Christmas Carol." Soon, Cygnet moves to a new home to be known as "The Joan." BEST BETS : Two holiday shows up through Christmas Eve deserve special attention in the San Diego area. "Miracle on 34th Street" is playing at Carlsbad's New Village Arts Theatre. It's a delightful radio-play musical take on the beloved 1947 movie about a young girl and Santa. Inspirational, moving and fast paced, with a strong cast, it is a lively production about a little girl's yearnings, the need to believe and the uplifting power of love. Favorite holiday tunes are cleverly interwoven in this revamp of the beloved film classic. Then Sean Murray creates the world's most endearing Scrooge in Cygnet Theatre's "A Christmas Carol."  Dancing, singing, comedy, lively staging and a heartwarming story make "Miracle on 34th Street" a hit at New Village Arts in Carlsbad. The venerable Old Town venue features director Sean Murray's poignant adaptation and his portrayal of the irascible but ultimately endearing Scrooge. A fine 7-person ensemble puts magic, music and imagination in this beautifully rendered production. As Cygnet wraps its tenure in Old Town, it prepares for its new larger home at the Joan and Irwin Jacobs Performing Arts Center at Liberty Station. It will be known as "The Joan," in honor of its major donors. For tickets to both: newvillagearts.org ; cygnettheatre.org   Start now to make your bucket list a reality, here on the Queen Mary 2. UP NEXT: New horizons for 2025. Why not take the trip or cruise you've been longing for? Start planning now for next year's holiday and you can make it work. Whether it's a summer or fall trip, or a goal for next Christmas, you can make it happen. If you're single, consider a low-interest loan or sharing a cabin. If you're a couple or family, figure ways to save and cut back on other areas and start a trip savings account.  Cruise lines sometimes offer deals for traveling with the family, as a single, or with generations. We'll offer ideas for holiday travel, and for fulfilling a bucket list dream.  It's possible to make a lifelong wish come true in the new year.  Think outside the box and remember, as a wise man said, "Everything you've ever wanted is sitting on the other side of fear.” — So don't be afraid to embrace an idea and make it a goal. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature and the arts.   www.whereiscookie.com

"Cambodian  Rock Band" is like no other musical. The writers of this column saw it recently at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The fine production comes to La Jolla Playhouse soon. -- photo courtesy Oregon Shakespeare Festival STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy theaters' marketing depts FROM THE  groundbreaking rock musical about a father and daughter and a southeast Asian band, to classic comedy by Neil Simon, a romantic adventure, a musical romance, historical drama and a stocking full of holiday shows, theater lovers can see a new production or two each week through year's end -- and be delighted with the mix. Jamie and Cathy are played with finesse by Michael Louis Cusimano and and Racquel Williams in Cygnet's "The Last  Five Years," on tap through Nov. 17. CYGNET THEATRE.  "The Last Five Years." Through Nov. 17. Billed as "an emotionally powerful and intimate musical" always energetic Cygnet features this charmer about two struggling New Yorkers in their twenties -- a novelist and actress -- who fall in and out of love over half a decade. With catchy solo turns, the music and lyrics showcase Jamie and Cathy as their relationship deepens and changes, and they face challenge both to the relationship and their individual desires.  Then Cygnet's always charming holiday musical tradition, "A Christmas Carol" with Sean Murray's clever adaptation. It runs Nov. 27-Dec. 29.   cygnettheatre.com Award winning internationally acclaimed David Sedaris' witty "The Santaland Diaries" comes to Diversionary Theatre. DIVERSIONARY THEATRE . "The Santaland Diaries."  This small, mind-challenging company presents a work written by comic and essayist David Sedaris.  His humorous account of a stint working as a Christmas elf in "Santaland" at Macy's department store is a sure holiday spirit pleaser. Sedaris first read the essay on National Public Radio's Morning Edition during the 1992 holidays and the story of the very unmerry elf has become a sardonic holiday classic. Diversionary continues its excellent tradition of LGBT work. Nov. 21-Dec. 22.  diversionary.org The approach to La Jolla Playhouse in evening. "Cambodian Rock Band" promises to delight opening soon.   La JOLLA PLAYHOUSE . "Cambodian Rock Band" Nov. 12-Dec. 15. We recently saw and loved this innovative production at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. It is absolutely ground-breaking, touching, mesmerizing. Epic in its sweep, it is both play and rock concert, thrusting us into the life of a young woman with a mission: to discover family history from 30 years earlier. She knew little about her musician father who fled Cambodia during the Khmer Rouge's brutal assault on the land, its artists and thinkers. A gifted cast performs a mix of contemporary Dengue Fever hits and Cambodian oldies. A stellar ensemble presents "Ring Around the Moon" at Lamb's Players Theatre. A lively holiday show follows.   The San Diego connection is playwright Lauren Yee, UC San Diego alum, who brilliantly brings the Cambodian rock scene of the ‘60s and ‘70s to life. We're excited to see it again, a masterful story about the power of survival, family loyalty and enduring music. lajollaplayhouse.org LAMB'S PLAYERS THEATRE:  "Ring Around the Moon." Christopher Fry’s 1950   adaptation  of Jean Anouilh's "Invitation to the Castle." A romantic adventure about love, identity and money, it's winning praise for its lovely staging, strong ensemble work and light-hearted comedy.  Through Nov. 17.  Then the popular and always unique "Lamb's Festival of Christmas" runs Dec. 5-29.   lambsplayers.org Lisel Gorell-Getz as Mags, and Debra Wanger as Liz at Moxie. MOXIE THEATRE:  "Handbagged." Through Nov. 17. This ground-breaking company presents works by and about interesting women in a mission to showcase diverse and honest looks at the female gender. "Handbagged" features two characters, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher ("Mags") and Queen Elizabeth II ("Liz,") with their older and younger versions played by four talented actors. The title references the handbags of the two same-age women who ruled with purses over their wrists. The play explores who really had the upper hand behind closed palace doors. It's winning raves.   moxietheatre.com New Village Arts' intimate space is a perfect venue for an imaginative production of "Around the World in 80 Days." NEW VILLAGE ARTS . "Around the World In 80 Days." Nov. 8-Dec. 22  The classic tale gets a new twist with original music as the mysterious, wealthy, lonely Victorian Phileas Fogg determines to circumnavigate the world in 80 days. On this belief, he has wagered his  fortune. Will bandits, buffalo, chivalry, an unreliable but faithful valet, and unrelenting inspector from Scotland Yard keep him from his impossible task? We follow Fogg and his eccentric companions aboard steamships, locomotives, and pachyderms as they learn about love, themselves, and the unanticipated.  With original pirate rock ‘n roll music by The Shantyannes.    newvillagearts.org Lenny Wolpe, as Willie Clark and James Sutorius as Al Lewis are endearing in "The Sunshine Boys," extended to Nov. 24. NORTHCOAST REPERTORY THEATRE: "The Sunshine Boys," is winning raves for its delightful rendition of Neil Simon's beloved comedy, the story of two cranky old actors who reunite for a final hurrah. North Coast Rep's ambitious artistic director David Ellenstein crafts a varied lineup for the theater's 38th season which opened with "Amadeus" and includes a Harold Pinter classic. The intimate house offers not a single bad seat and this production promises laughs and a perhaps a tear with the smile.  northcoastrep.org    "A Christmas Story" promises to delight, based on the popular movie (seen here), at San Diego Musical Theatre, with its ambitious season. SAN DIEGO MUSICAL THEATRE:  "A Christmas Story" runs Nov. 29-Dec. 29 after SDMT's sold-out production of "Man of LaMancha" with Robert J. Townsend as a moving Don Quixote. The lively holiday show is based on the classic film about family, a coveted gift ("you'll shoot your eye out") and growing up. The ambitious SDMT season includes the romantic comedy, "She Loves Me," Erin and Gary Lewis turned a lifelong love of musical theater into a San Diego gift. Tony winning "Rent," always winning "Little Shop of Horrors" and more. Musical theater buffs Erin and Gary  Lewis founded the enterprise in 2006. It features that dying breed, live orchestra, and has a loyal following for its inventive and varied varied repertoire. sdmt.org   SAN DIEGO REPERTORY THEATRE : "Hold These Truths" Ryun Yu plays all 37 characters in an emotionally charged production, "Hold These Truths" at SD Rep. Nov. 14-Dec. 8. One-man tour de force starring Ryun Yu in a work written by Jeanne Sakata. The story tells of a Japanese-American man who spent 50 years trying to avenge the injustice done to Americans of Japanese ancestry after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. The actor plays all 37 characters in what promises the Rep's usual electric, thought-provoking theatrical experience. It comes on the heels of a brilliant comedy, "Bad Hombres, Good Wives." sdrep.org WELK THEATRE.  Welk Resort's always popular holiday show opens Nov. 22, a family musical entertainment.   "The Addams Family." Through Nov. 10. New musical comedy, with fun twists but loosely based on the TV show.  Campy action and a veteran cast.   "Welk home Home Nov. 22-Dec. 29 promises swinging sounds of traditional songs, contemporary work and a perfect family entertainment. Then the Broadway classic, “A Chorus Line” is up Jan. 10-March 22. This is one of the writer's "Top 10" Broadway shows, a concept musical about Broadway dancers auditioning for spots on a chorus line. Don't neglect the resort's excellent tribute shows. welkresorts.com Train passengers arrive from many UK cities in York. UP NEXT:  Train, train, train...... England style.  Come with us to trace the evolution of rail travel as transportation evolved from stagecoach to trains. We ride the rails, old and new, as Cookie and Keller  explore the United Kingdom's long love affair with rail travel.  We take you to York's fabulous Railroad Museum, then catch a vintage steam train for a delightful 90-minute journey. Next, we go inside the beautiful Orient Express cars when rail travel was elegant and try a Britrail pass to London and more.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature and family.

The Museo Picasso Malaga, above, opened in 2003 and features nearly 300 paintings.  Below, Merced Plaza which gives way to the Picasso Birthplace Museum, rear left. The Museo Picasso Malaga, above, opened in 2003 and features nearly 300 paintings.  Below, Merced Plaza which gives way to the Picasso Birthplace Museum, rear left. FATHER OF MODERN ART MEMORIALIZED IN HIS NATIVE CITY IN ANDALUSIA The Picasso Museum -- Museo Picasso Malaga -- houses many of Malaga's native son's works. Picasso's birth home is now one of two museums celebrating the master's life and contributions. Malaga tips its hat -- twice -- to the master with a pair of complementary but different Picasso museums Bruce Keller hams it up to a stoic Pablo Picasso, asking for directions from the master, who didn't reply. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie (Christene Meyers) poses with Picasso, interrupting his sketching. ALTHOUGH HE LEFT  home town for good after only two decades, Pablo Picasso is proudly claimed as Malaga's native son. Two museums in the city honor him and we spent a wonderful day at the pair, exploring the evolution of a genius born into a patrician family, who answered the call of the arts and left Malaga for Paris. Our first stop was the Casa Natal Picasso, Picasso's birthplace museum.  After a breakfast snack with the master's bronze, we headed inside.  We spent the morning there, before heading for the fine Picasso Museum Malaga.   The Picasso Birthplace Museum sells attractive souvenirs. IN THE birthplace home gallery, or "Natal Museum," we reveled in a fascinating illustrated history of his life with drawings, letters, commentary and even his favorite cape. The property is off the popular Plaza Merced, surrounded by bistros and shops. Inside, a treasure trove of engravings, sketches and personal effects of the master awaits inspection. Photographs of his childhood, parents and family are a fascinating record of the fashions and privileged lives of the gentry, which his parents obviously were. Outside again in the Plaza Merced, we returned to sit with the master, memorialized in a handsome life size bronze, sketchbook and pencil in hand, patina on his head where thousands have rubbed it. The controversial "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon" by Picasso. CONSIDERED BY  most experts and art aficionados to be the most important painter of the Twentieth Century, Picasso was born in 1881 at number 15 Plaza de la Merced. Declared a Historic-Artistic Monument of National Interest in 1983, Picasso's Birthplace Museum began on the first floor and expanded to the entire building. Picasso in his Paris salon, 15 years before he died in 1973. Visiting the birthplace museum first was a wise idea, for it prepared us for the painting museum's extensive repertoire later that day.  AFTER SEVERAL HOURS  at the birth place museum, which also houses ceramic pieces, we paused mid-day to picnic with the master's bronze in the plaza. A foundation supports the Museo Casa Natal. We watched as tourists -- including the two of us -- posed with Pablo, shared stories with him, put arms around him, even offered him a sandwich. Then on to the splendid if austere Museo Picasso Málaga, which pays homage to Andalusia's most famous son. It opened in 2003 in the Buenavista Palace, and is devoted to Picasso's dramatic paintings, 285 of which were donated by Picasso's family. Young Picasso, left, with his sister, in his birth home. THE TWO  museums are an absorbing point-counterpoint, with the natal museum's emphasis on scholarship, preparation and personal effects and the more traditional museum an artfully curated homage to his paintings. A wonderful library and ambitious program of temporary exhibitions and cultural activities also enrich Picasso's Birthplace Museum.  Fans of Miro, Chagall, Max Ernst, Georges Braque and other influential artists will enjoy an array of illustrated books donated by the painter's family. And fans of art history will appreciate the birthplace museum's fascinating notebooks of preparatory drawings for the famous work "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon" (The Young Ladies of Avignon). This landmark painting of five splintered faces of prostitutes with masks marked the beginning of Picasso's "African Period," which inspired the artistic movement of cubism. Ironically, the master's most famous painting -- created in 1907 -- is housed not in Spain, but in New York's Museum of Modern Art. As the hilarious Captain Spaulding, Josh Odsess-Rubin brings down the house in Cygnet Theatre's rollicking performance of "Animal Crackers." NEXT UP:   If you've always wanted to visit San Diego in the summertime, and if you love old-fashioned well delivered musicals and comedy, you can laugh yourself into a happy stupor with the offerings in southern California right now. From "Guys and Dolls" to "Animal Crackers," and "The Buddy Holly Story," you can see a play a day.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend another lively look at the arts, nature and travel with a twist.