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  • Celebrity Tours - Priscilla Presley: back in Palm Springs, where the couple honeymooned

    The Palm Springs home of Elvis and Priscilla Presley is a Celebrity Tours stop. Priscilla Presley   talks about the couple's time in the famous home when she presents a one-woman show and chats about her life with "The King" tonight at Oscar's, Palm Springs.  The home is featured on tours, too.   'The King' lives on in legend as Priscilla Presley shares their life stories in the couple's honeymoon town where tourists from around the world visit their "honeymoon home." ELVIS PRESLEY'S ONLY WIFE PRESENTS INTIMATE MEMOIR OF HER LIFE WITH 'THE KING' STORY by CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER and courtesy of Graceland, the Elvis Presley Estate THE MYSTIQUE  of Elvis Presley continues to inspire awe, curiosity and new generations of fans years after his 1977 death. Admirers of all ages have an opportunity to find out more about him in an evening with his only wife, Priscilla Presley, now 76 and touring an engaging show with images and commentary. The show, said Presley, "gives me an opportunity to connect with my fans, to celebrate Elvis, and for people to maybe learn something they didn't know about Elvis." Oscar's talented Dan Gore has a long love of Hollywood lore, and says the Palm Springs mystique is alive and well. OSCAR'S, A LIVELY cabaret in the center of Palm Springs, California, is next on Presley's tour with a Nov. 11, show.  "I'm excited to be there," she says, about the inventive cabaret, known for its tea dances, lively shows and LGBTQ-friendly environment. Palm Springs has a long connection to Hollywood, from the days when studios demanded their stars be able to return quickly to Los Angeles for editing, rehearsals, photo shoots. Thus Palm Springs became a popular close-by get-away -- a calm, rejuvenating, relaxing, sunny alternative to the smog and bustle of Los Angeles.  "The mystique continues," says Dan Gore, owner of Oscar's. GORE HAS garnered international attention for Oscar's inventive programming, with a focus on gay and trans entertainment. A creative menu and attentive service kick things up a notch, all thanks to Gore's show-biz savvy.  He is a veteran Hollywood producer, whose cabaret shows, dances and weekend brunches are a hit with locals and tourists alike. Elvis and Priscilla Presley admire their infant daughter, the couple's only child, born  in 1968. PRISCILLA'S LIFE with Elvis began Sept. 13, 1959, during Presley's much publicized Army career. The two met at a party at his home in Bad Nauheim, Germany. Hers was a military family and she was only 14 years old -- ten years younger than 24-year old Elvis. They kept in touch and Priscilla Beaulieu married Elvis Presley eight years later when nearing her 22nd birthday. Elvis and Priscilla had a 10-year age difference.   Her presentation, "Elvis and Me:  An Intimate Evening With Priscilla Presley," includes anecdotes about their courtship, including her dream of living on a horse ranch. But although smitten, she says, "I hadn't considered marrying one of the world's most famous rock stars." She'll tell the Oscar's crowd that she knew she was in love when "the king" waved goodbye to her as he left his station in Germany to return to the states. Graceland has become a successful enterprise with Priscilla Presley's guidance and business sense. Below, she's with Leslie Nielsen in "The Naked Gun."  "He told me he'd be looking for me," Presley remembers. Her presentation includes home movies and photographs of their life together, plus a question and answer period. Elvis Presley's life with Priscilla is on tap at Oscar's Thursday. "HE ALSO told me, 'I don't want any sad faces. I want a smile.' Just seeing him walk up the stairs, I realized my life would be empty without him." Elvis and Priscilla were married for five years before they separated in 1972 and divorced the following year. He passed away five years later, in August of 1977. His possessive nature and her youth may have played into their  separation, but they remained friends and she has developed her own fan base. "I miss him very much, as many people do," said Presley, who crafted a successful life on film and TV as well as in the corporate world.  She is known for her business acumen and loyalty to her fans, whom she meets for presentations, tours and celebrations at Graceland.  HER INVENTIVE  spirit and enduring affection for Elvis and his legacy have helped perpetuate the late star’s music sales and have made Graceland a world renowned mansion-turned-museum. Graceland, the Elvis’ estate is still profitable four-plus decades after his death and Elvis is among the top highest-earning dead celebrities, along with Michael Jackson, Prince, Bing Crosby, Dr. Seuss and Arnold Palmer. Through Priscilla's shrewd business sense, his estate made more money this year than the singer had the year he died. And she has crafted a successful acting career, in "Dallas," "The Naked Gun" and many other shows. More info about the Palm Springs Presley show and ticket options including a dinner-show package  and a meet-greet with Ms. Presley:  oscarspalmsprings.com ; priscillapresley.com ; Palm Springs Celebrity Tours: comfy fan, hotel pick-up, three hours, 50 celebrity homes, including Elvis & Priscilla's honeymoon home, 760 895-8005.    UP NEXT:  The energy of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles prompted applause and standing ovations at a recent sell-out concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs. The world's only LGBTQ mariachi band is touring its sell-out show. We were delighted to be in the audience at Oscar's, Palm Springs for Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles. We take you inside this ground-breaking group, with a look at its ambitious goals and brave history, noting the precision of the players, their acclaimed, authentic sound and passion for acceptance. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on the arts, nature, travel, family and changing times: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Magnificent mariachi band tours, delights, breaks ground for LGBTQ

    Founder and band leader of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles, Carlos Samaniego, is a talented, classically trained musician who formed the world's first LGBTQ mariachi band.  AMBASSADORS FOR ACCEPTANCE: WORLD CLASS GAY, TRANS ARTISTS ENTERTAIN AT OSCAR'S PALM SPRINGS    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Natalia Marie Melendez is a first-rate mariachi musician, the world's first trans woman player in the genre. IMAGINE A GIFTED  young violinist -- gay, Hispanic, bullied as a kid.  Picture this talented guy dreaming of forming his own band as he experiences discrimination, derision and bullying. Then imagine the courage it took to organize such a group, an unorthodox ensemble of  top quality musicians.  The dream is a reality now, as Mariachi Arcoiris is gaining an international reputation, emerging brilliantly and distinctly apart from and beyond the macho world of Mexican folk music. THIS IS  no movie script or fairytale.  It's the true, real-life story of  mariachi musician, Carlos Samaniego. He directs this unique ensemble, which boasts an all-LGBTQ lineup -- including the world's first trans woman mariachi player.  The group is getting raves around the country with Samaniego also singing and playing lead violin as the ensemble's concert master. Individuality and diversity are the trademarks of the colorful ensemble and its players. Arcoiris, which means rainbow in Spanish, embodies Samaniego's love for the beloved musical genre held in reverence in Hispanic culture. Says Samaniego, "It is a beloved genre in our culture -- distinct, powerful, dramatic -- a staple at Mexican events and celebrations." HAVING HEARD my share of mediocre mariachi in hotels and folk festivals in Mexico, I was completely unprepared for a recent, flawless concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs, California. Oscar's owner, Dan Gore, invited the group after it garnered lively publicity for playing three gigs in May in the Los Angeles area. Gore lived many years in Los Angeles and heard of the gifted ensemble during celebrations for the Cinco de Mayo holiday. The music and its message appealed to Gore, whose Oscar's programming encourages  acceptance and honors the rainbow theme Carlos Samaniego founded and directs Mariachi Arcoiris. espoused by supporters of the gay community. Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles is the brainchild of Samaniego, who studied classical violin and singing and has a 20-year history with the gay music industry. He talked engagingly about growing up in a macho culture, being a "different kid," and wanting to share his talents in an environment that accepted his sexuality and saw him as a fine musician.  Mariachi Arcoiris (Rainbow Mariachi) is available for tours, bookings.   Oscar's has a new chef and  tasty menu options. SUCCESSFUL GIGS at a gay Latino cowboy nightclub gave him and others a leg up, but the machismo continued and became depressing. So by 2014, Samaniego formed a 10-member group identifying itself as "lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, non-binary, asexual and pansexual," Samaniego said. ACCORDING TO   Gore, "There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment."  Oscar's is known for its programming diversity, welcoming a heavily gay audience for its drag cabaret, brunches, strip shows and tea dances. It's a place where people feel safe on both sides of the footlights, and because of this has a loyal, supportive clientele.   Oscar's owner Dan Gore runs the lights for productions, here for the mariachi band. Natalia Marie Melendez is the world's first transgender woman mariachi musician. The Lawndale resident has joined the ensemble for Pride celebrations around California and hopes her speaking out is "a positive moving force in the world -- not just for us, but for generations to come." As the world's only transgender female that plays mariachi music, she says, "It's been difficult. There is a definite machismo culture in mariachi." There was no machismo the night we heard these splendid mariachis. The appreciative crowd leapt to its feet in immediate standing ovation, begging an encore after Samaniego announced the finale. So of course there was another number.  EACH MEMBER of the troupe performed a cameo, show-case number -- some singing, some instrumental,  in a range of repertoire than included "The Impossible Dream," from "Man of LaMancha." The audience sipped and supped through the relaxing, well tuned evening and buoyed by the evening's success, Gore said he hopes to book the ensemble again.   MORE INFORMATION , to book the mariachi band or an Oscar's reservation:     www.mariachiarcoiris.com ;  www.oscarspalmsprings.com     Keller and Cookie give thanks for being vaccinated, for being together, and able to travel and enjoy the world. UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is a time for reflection and appreciation. For Cookie and Keller, Thanksgiving has been "on the road" for their 14 years together -- sometimes with family in California, Oregon, Montana or Georgia, sometimes in Europe or Asia, maybe seeing a show in Las Vegas  or New York. It's also a time for memories of family-friends Thanksgivings in a happy Norman Rockwell world of long ago. More on a nostalgic Thanksgiving Day when we publish our weekly post -- a fresh spin on travel, cruising, nature, family and the arts. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com   HAPPY THANKSGIVING! May we carry the spirit of kindness into the holidays of December, giving thanks for our life on Earth, our friends, family, talents, travels and many blessings.

  • American Cruise Line - Columbia, Snake river cruise yields small-town surprises, pleasures

    American Cruise Lines' vessels come close to land for beautiful scenery and fascinating ports. AMERICAN CRUISE LINES OFFERS BALCONY ROOMS WITH STELLAR VIEWS, CHANGING LANDSCAPE, GOURMET DINING, SAFETY AND SURPRISES We could see and soon touch the locks from our balcony aboard American Pride on the trail of explorers Lewis and Clark. Great educational fun . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE PLEASURES of river cruising are many.  First, you're close to shore. Because of your ship's size, you easily tie up at surprisingly beautiful -- even enchanting -- places. Instead of waiting in line to get off the ship, you walk in minutes from your stateroom to your shore adventure. In a few quick strides, you're embarking on a leisurely independent stroll or a fascinating land excursion. Your transportation awaits, a smiling guide greets you and the day is yours to explore historic venues, museums, parks, to begin a new experience. YOU MIGHT  be docked in the center of historic towns and places, as we were on our recent Columbia and Snake rivers cruise on the Lewis and Clark trail. We had to pull ourselves away from the changing landscape of our river sojourn. Yet we enjoyed the equally interesting land tours. We scarcely wanted to leave our balcony for the wonders we witnessed there. Coffee or cocktail in hand, we were "up close" to locks and lighthouses, dams and lavish private homes, farms and parks. Each  turn of the river offered changing landscape, bird life, deer, cattle, even a fox. There they were --  right off our balcony stateroom, our home for a week aboard American Cruise Lines' American Pride. On land, we discovered surprises aplenty: lavish gardens, museums, water sportsmen, intriguing architecture, even a xylophone for music-minded me to play at an Oregon riverfront park.  Cookie played a xylophone, a feature of several Oregon parks .  American Cruise Lines offers unique side trips to historic  venues such as this 1913 streetcar in Astoria, Oregon.  WE ENJOYED and appreciated the homegrown aspect that personifies ACL.  The fleet is American made and American staffed. Workers are trained to reflect that spirit of confidence and pride.  ACL's are the largest riverboat  staterooms  afloat.  While many lines are just recovering from the purgatory of the pandemic, ACL with its variety of domestic cruising options has been back in business for months, specializing in sophisticated cruising and intriguing activities to enjoy on land. The variety of locks adds interest and photo opportunities on ACL river trips. This "guillotine lock" is on the Snake .      Our options included a chance to hop aboard Astoria's Riverfront Trolley, a delightful 1913 heritage streetcar using former freight railroad tracks near the south bank of the Columbia River. Transiting the dams and locks is fun on a small ship, too. We joined fellow travelers to touch the moist side walls as we passed through. We transited through several kinds of locks including the aptly named "Guillotine," which -- like the French execution implement -- lifts up, then comes down.  We could feel the drips of the water! Fascinating way to climb and descend as we travel, explore and learn. EACH AMERICAN Cruise Line itinerary tailors its stops and lectures to life on the specific river.  In the South, there are trips to plantations and the food reflects the locale -- barbecue in Memphis, gumbo in New Orleans. New England voyages may feature fall foliage.  Mississippi River cruises feature Cajun cuisine, Civil war battles, wildlife, jazz, etc. So there is a river cruise for every taste -- and one can be as busy or as laid back as one wishes.  Repeat cruisers like to sit on their balconies and admire the scenery, while others prefer to get some exercise -- walk into the various towns, or hop aboard conveniently located transportation for tours or museum visits. Bruce Keller steps inside a tule mat lodge, a replica of ones used by native people.  We witnessed the same raw beauty the explorers saw on our 350-mile transit. But instead of building forts in the rain and sleet, we toured a lovely museum and stepped inside the "tule mat" lodges, clever, tightly woven structures which protected the native people from cold in the winter and kept them cool in summer. Small boats can anchor near land, and welcoming committees often greet, as in The Dalles, Oregon. NEW FRIENDS were excited to be heading to a recently introduced ACL itinerary, "Music Cities," a few days after our Pacific Northwest adventure. They, too, are music lovers, eager to learn more about the variety of musical genres explored on the "bluegrass to jazz" itinerary. View from the gorge: Bruce Keller and Christene Cookie Meyers enjoy Maryhill Museum of Art .  If you're a Mark Twain buff, you can satisfy your yearning for the history, art, folklore and literature spawned on the Mississippi -- enjoying a one-man show by an actor impersonating Samuel Clemens.  The boat stops north of St. Lewis in in Hannibal, Mark Twain's boyhood home so cruisers can tour a fascinating museum in his honor. Keller, Cookie and driver-guide  Mike became friends during the couple's week on the rivers. As art and history buffs, we never miss an museum jaunt. The Maryhill Museum of Art, a beautifully designed, small museum with an eclectic collection, offers a stunning room of Rodin sculptures plus artifacts from Queen Marie of Romania, Orthodox icons and unique chess sets Who'd expect to find these treasure in rural Klickitat County, Washington? But there they are.  We enjoyed the museum's" thrones" on a bluff atop the east end of the Columbia River Gorge.     MEETING CHEERFUL  drivers, who double as knowledgeable guides, is another benefit of traveling with ACL.  These history-minded native sons and daughters know the territory and share their knowledge and stories because they follow the ship. We had the same lovely guide, Mike, all week, and developed a friendship with him -- enjoying his anecdotes as we retraced parts of the famous Lewis and Clark Expedition 216 years later. We enjoyed superb accommodations and comforts of modern day cruising, while learning of the hardships faced by the daring explorers who shaped western expansion so long ago.   americancruiselines.com or 1 800 981-9149 A painting at Sacajawea State Park Interpretive Center in Pasco, Wash . UP NEXT:   So remarkable a contribution did Sacajawea make to the 1805 Lewis and Clark expedition that she is remembered and revered today throughout the West.  We hopped on and off American Pride to visit several sights paying homage to the brilliant guide, interpreter, lay doctor and linguist, with a side-trip to a luxury inn named after her, the Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks, Montana. The influence of Sacajawea is felt today, nearly 220 years after the journey, in museums, parks, and the hotel we visited is one of many places to honor Sacajawea throughout the west. We pay homage to her and enjoy the hotel, reminding readers to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Astoria Maritime Museum offers superb look at Pacific Northwest's stormy sea connection

    Crossing the fabled bar where the Columbia meets the Pacific is the focus of several exhibits at the engaging Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon.   Life-size exhibits draw viewers from around the world into the story of Astoria's stormy relationship with the sea. ASTORIA'S MARITIME MUSEUM BOASTS MARVELOUS EXHIBITS, HISTORY, ART, SEA LIFE ARTIFACTS   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The museum's exhibits artfully blend photos, artifacts, three-dimensional art and more. Here, high-tech underwater diving of yore. THE MARITIME history of Astoria, Oregon, is one of tumult, terror and triumph. Many a ship and sailor have been pummeled by the surf -- thrown against the shoals on the treacherous Columbia River bar. We learned at the Columbia River Maritime Museum that the river has taken at least 2,000 vessels and nearly as many lives. MERGING OF river and ocean take on mythic proportion at the splendid museum, which does an excellent job of explaining the fascinating reality of meandering river meeting a wild ocean.   A museum visitor notes the warning given as ships approached convergence of river and sea. This section is so rugged because of the huge volume of water as the river spreads nearing the ocean. It washes sands and sediments from many miles away against thrashing tides. As the 1,243-mile long Columbia reaches its mouth, its drainage basin is enormous -- almost the size of France. So when the swelling river meets the Pacific, it's a big deal. It began quietly in British Canada, gathering speed and ferocity before colliding with the turbulent Pacific. From the days of dugout canoes to the early 1900s, lives were lost in this crushing convergence. Installation of great boulder-mound jetties more than a century ago made the area safer, but before that, the treacherous "bar" was a dangerous five miles wide and filled with changing channels and shifting shoals, making it a navigational nightmare. A lighthouse lens designed by Fresnel is artfully displayed in the Astoria museum. THE MUSEUM takes a colorful look at the river and its importance to its host town and beyond -- a massive region between Washington and Oregon.     ​ More than a traditional repository, the Columbia River Maritime Museum is a unique combination of seafaring vessels, maritime artifacts, and exquisite paintings, enhanced by exhibits, three-dimensional displays, live demonstrations and hands-on activities. A giant ship's anchor is a focal point outside the museum, and often photographed by visitors. One of the paintings, "Smoky Sunset on the Columbia River," is breathtaking -- a ship at full sail on one wide and a canoe on the other, all framed by haunting land and light. For my sailor partner and me, it was an engaging history lesson about boats, equipment and the hazards of the sea. THE MUSEUM  naturally focuses on the waterway that gave birth to Astoria and the northwest region of Oregon. But its scope is broader. Anyone with an interest in the sea and its dangers, challenges and pleasures will enjoy this creative gem of a museum.    The famous Morro Rock stands proudly in the harbor of a quaint seaside town with shops, views, plenty to amuse. UP NEXT:  The pretty coastal town of Morro Bay, California, attracts hikers, drivers, sea lovers and tourists from around the world. Located midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, this lively village is home to world-famous Morro Rock, which serves as the backdrop to an enticing abundance of year-round outdoor activities. We explore the options -- kayaking, surfing, boating, golfing, hiking and biking. We also look at some quaint hotels and visit Morro Bay State Park, home to lagoons, trails and a rich bird-rich saltwater marsh. Remember to explore, learn and live at www.whereiscookie.com

  • Morro Bay: play, stay on the bay, with seals, otters and great seafood

    Morro Rock stands imposingly and majestically in the waters, as it has for centuries, welcoming tourists and modern-day explorers. The rock is beloved by locals for its lore and ancient history. A regal seagull checks out the surf near Morro Rock . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AN ANCIENT landmark, revered by native people and photographed by tourists, greets curious visitors and charms locals in Morro Bay, Calif. Explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo named the towering 476-foot rock known by sailors as an imposing navigational aid. It stands sentinel above the entrance to Morro Bay.  Cabrillo's "discovery" was made during his voyage up the California coast in 1542 --50 years after Columbus made his famous voyage to the new world on the other side of the country. Cookie and Keller enjoy a bay stroll near sunset. THOUSANDS  of years before, native  people fished the rich coastal waters and traversed the land of long-extinct volcanoes which formed the historic landmark. Morro Rock goes back 23 million years. The "Gibraltar of the Pacific," is the last peak of the Nine Sisters, which extend from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay. The rock was mined until 1963.Still today, there's a feeling of age and mystery about the rock's place on the beautiful bay, shrouded in fog as it often is and looking like a movie backdrop. ONE CAN  picture long-ago Spanish galleons, when commerce relied on the sea for transport. Farmers came to work the land, and miners worked the hills and caves.  Morro Rock is an imposing sight from the hotel balcony. Located as it is midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Morro Bay is a stopping off place for us and many others on our drives up the coast from San Diego. California's renowned Pacific Coastal Highway runs right through the center of this quietly satisfying little beach town. Everything seems to center around the beach, where high school students work out and can easily walk to or from their school. Morro Bay is a fishing town. Dozens of privately owned boats on hitches line residential streets and you can't go wrong ordering seafood at the dozen or so popular restaurants. Morro Bay is a fishing and tourist town. The seafood is abundant and delicious everywhere. WE GOT GREAT tips from   our hotel check-in clerk at Ascot Suites, a charming, centrally located hotel with an abundance of English country art.   We took our happy hour drinks to the rooftop sundeck with a beautiful vista of the bay and rock.  We lingered to enjoy a perfect sunset with gorgeous shirt sleeves weather in late October.  Locals say the pleasant temperatures last through the holidays. Thousands of people visit Morro Bay each year so there are over a dozen hotels, plenty of B&Bs, and assorted other rentals -- from simple and rustic to plush and expensive. After a day of play on the bay, Bruce Keller enjoys sunset. FOR A TOWN of only 11,000 there is a surprising amount of activity and entertainment.   We happened upon live music on the bay -- and asked about the town's other landmark: three large smokestacks.  They're from an old power plant and can be seen from almost everywhere in town. We nature lovers delighted in the wildlife, too. We saw harbor seals, sea lions, sea otters, snowy plovers and peregrine falcons which nest on Morro Rock. More info: morrochamber.org ; ascotsuites.com          Gran Olive's filled date and mincemeat cookies. We'll share her recipe next week. Please "tune in." UP NEXT : A non-baker finds courage to restore a family tradition: making Christmas cookies, grandmother's recipe no less.  After a day of kitchen duty for Cookie, Keller is munching his way through the holidays with the results. We share a favorite family recipe -- my grandmother's delicious date and mincemeat filled cookies. We also travel the globe in search of foodie fun to celebrate the holidays in style with other cultures. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at family, travel, cruising, nature, the arts and more. Please share the link and tell your friends: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Flying high above Kauai -- splendors in the sky await in airplane tour

    Hawaii's fourth largest island, Kauai, is captured from high above the coast in an Air Ventures plane. SMALL PLANE, GREAT NARRATIVE WITH BIRD'S EYE VIEWS OF GARDEN ISLE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The "Garden Isle" of Kauai as photographed from an Air Ventures Airvan, with large windows and fabulous views. SOARING HIGH  above the land where the musical "South Pacific" was filmed, we could feel the "sunlight on the sand, moonlight on the sea." The mangoes and bananas the sailors in the movie sang about were out of sight.  It had rained earlier in the day, giving a gleaming patina to the hills.  The sun flirted with us -- muted part of the time, with rainbows surrounding us.  But it was a gloriously sunny day for a few treasured moments.   WE WERE  truly "somewhere over the rainbow" as we flew high above the lushest of the Hawaiian chain, the "Garden Island" of Kauai. The nurses help Mitzi Gaynor "Wash That Man Right Out of My Hair" on Lumaha'i Beach. - -photo courtesy 20th Century Fox We signed up for one of this verdant island's most popular air tours. There are several, but our choice was "The Big Kahuna," a delightful hour soaring above the clouds, wrapped in the splendor of some of the world's most spectacular scenery.    In more than 50 visits to Hawaii -- and a dozen plane and helicopter tours -- we've found the Garden Island to have the most breathtaking landscape of the chain.  We transited above the subtle curves of Waimea Canyon, admired the majestic Napali Coast -- which we've viewed from the ocean -- and sighed above Lumaha'i Beach, humming tunes from that  favorite movie, "South Pacific." ("What ain't we got? We ain't got dames!") Bruce Keller and captain Nate give thumbs up for the spacious GA-8 Airvan which offers spectacular views. Hawaii's fourth largest island -- yes, the "Garden Island," -- earns its moniker. The oldest and northernmost island in the Hawaiian chain is draped in emerald valleys, sharp mountain spires and jagged cliffs, aged by time and the elements. We saw it all. And reveled in the views from above. OUR PILOT Nate gave us a nicely narrated bird’s eye view of the spectacular landscape, with interesting anecdotes. (We didn't know Kauai is the only island not conquered by King Kamehameha as he tried to unite all the Hawaiian Islands.) -     Keller and Cookie take a pose before boarding. We had seen the entire island many times by land, so it was fun to see it from the air: the Menehune Fish Pond, the Eucalyptus Tunnel of Trees, Waita Reservoir (the largest reservoir on Kauai), Captain Cook’s Landing in Waimea Town, and the fabled Waimea Canyon. Air Ventures planes offer stunning views, and here, one plane can spot another above the sea. WE WERE humming "Bali Ha'i" as we flew above the majestic Napali coastline and back over Lumaha'i Beach.  (Bloody Mary was almost visible!) Then on to Hanalei Valley, with its silvery, cascading waterfalls, and Kilauea Lighthouse with one of the world's largest frigate bird sanctuaries.   Mile after mile of stunning coastline and beaches offered visual treats galore.  We were sad when we quietly and safely landed, ending a spectacular time. More about this Air Ventures Hawaii, and its options for an exciting view of a beautiful island: kauaiairtour.com Patrick Harry Cosgriffe and his beloved daughter, Christene, born with Down Syndrome and now left without a father. UP NEXT: The sudden death of my baby brother Patrick has rendered me in an depressing state of inertia.  I am unable to write anything unrelated to him and our family, so I yield to this suffocating state. The next piece will focus on our beloved Patrick and my namesake, Christena, a Down Syndrome child. I'll use this period of intense grief to write about him and our family's traumas, love, sorrow and considerations for the future of his only child.   Thank you for the indulgence. Please remember Patrick, say prayers for Christena's future and continue to love, explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh twist on art, music, history, travel, culture, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Hawaii's volcanoes attract worldwide audience of curious tourists

    On a blustery but sunny day at Hawaii's Kilauea Volcano, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"   Meyers take a selfie against the eerie but beautiful landscape of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  Volcanoes formed the landscape and are still active. PELE'S POWERS, TECTONIC SHIFTS BRING  KILAUEA, MAUNALOA TO MODERN DAY TOURISTS The Kilauea Volcano in all its glory.  photo courtesy Hawaii Volcanoes National Park STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HAWAII'S ACTIVE  volcanoes are constantly causing a stir on The Big Island, where locals are ready for steam, smoke and fire at any time.   Volcano and earthquake hazards occur regularly, so that is always on the mind of the people. Tourists -- including the two of us travel writers and photographers -- make it a point to have a look at these wonders of nature whenever we're in the area. The island's jet-black lava fields, white sand and snowy mountains make a photographer's dream, with hiking trails across a lunar-like landscape, and viewpoints to show it all off. Pele, goddess of volcanoes and fire, is the star of a spectacular  sound and light show at Smith Family Garden Luau. SINCE THE Hawaiian Islands were born of lava flows, it's not surprising that volcanoes are still part of the landscape.  They have long been part of the islands' lore as well. The native Hawaiians revere Pele, goddess of fire and volcanoes, and honor her in sound and light shows across the islands.  The most spectacular one is fittingly on  The Big Island,  where two of the world's most active volcanoes are found. In a dramatic musical story Pele comes alive as the volcano puts on a show at Smith Family Garden Luau.  The creation of the island is dramatically told.   So whether one believes in pure science, or the revered Pele myth, plate tectonics met the goddess with fire, light and dramatic sound effects. In the show, Pele rises above the mountains to create one of the world's most majestic landscapes.   SINCE KILAUEA and Maunaloa volcanoes are both found here, there are national parks to give visitors the updated story and a chance to survey the ever changing landscape. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is about an hour from Hilo on the east side of the island, or two and one-half hours from Hilton Waikoloa Village on the western side of the island. Looking much like forest fire damage, its possible you might see the volcano burn .    Maunaloa last erupted at its summit, in March of 1984. A series of fissures subsequently opened along the Northeast Rift Zone, feeding lava flows that came to within 17 km (11 miles) of Hilo Bay in 5 days. The eruption ended on April 15. Kilauea's last eruption was 1983 with others occurring sporadically into 2018. That last major eruption in 2018 destroyed more than 700 homes and displaced thousands of residents.  Other volcanoes on Hawaii Island include: Maunakea, Hualalai, and Kohala. Our homework revealed that between 1912 and 2012, there were nearly 50 Kīlauea eruptions and 12 Mauna Loa eruptions.Park officials say the summit eruption of Kīlauea Volcano, within Halemaʻumaʻu crater, has continued with minor fluctuations in lava output. Its active lava lake was estimated to be 89 meters (292 feet) when lava emerged on Sept. 29, 2021, not that long ago. Informative guides give lively, scientific information on the volcanic action at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. IT IS NEVER possible to predict the exact date and time of an eruption. Our naturalist guide told us, "Because these are active volcanoes, we can't say when they might blow again." Geophysical measurements indicate that Maunaloa's magma storage system has been recharging since the 1984 eruption. Since 2019, there have been signs of elevated unrest, but the next Maunaloa eruption doesn't appear imminent, our guide added.Hawaii has many remarkable features, including that Maunaloa is the largest active volcano on Earth. She covers an impressive half of the island, rising to 4,170 meters (13,681 feet) above sea level. Her long submarine flanks descend 5 km (3 miles) below sea level to the ocean floor. MAUNALOA, like Kiluea, has a summit caldera and two active rift zones extending from its summit. Eruptions vary from short- to long-lived, and occur at the summit, or radial vents on her north and western flanks. Mauna Loa eruptions can begin with little warning, producing intense lava flows traveling long distances in short periods of time. Villages on the flanks of the volcano are naturally impacted. These tourists admire the landscape of steam and smoke at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island .  THE FASTEST high-volume eruption from Mauna Loa began on June 1, 1950, when fissures opened from the uppermost Southwest Rift Zone, generating a ferocious lava flow that traveled 15 miles, reaching the ocean in less than three hours, shutting down the highway in three places. Hawaii is at the southeast end of a chain of volcanoes that began forming more than 70 million years ago. Each island is made of one or more volcano which erupted on the floor of the Pacific Ocean, emerging above sea level only after countless eruptions. Six volcanoes collaborated over a million ears to create The Big Island.   ENTRANCE  to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park with its excellent visitor center is $30 per vehicle, $25 per motorcycle, $15 per pedestrian or bicyclist. The receipt allows entry for seven days. We happily used our national park senior passes, obtained a few years ago in Yellowstone National Park and much used across the U.S. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a sunny autumn day in Yellowstone National Park. UP NEXT :  Speaking of volcanoes, we're marking a very special birthday this week.  It's the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Yellowstone National Park, a world wonder, sometimes referred to as the Yellowstone Caldera, or Supervolcano. The park's wonder are enjoyed each year by millions of visitors from around the globe.  Although it's mostly in Wyoming, we Montanans claim it, too, and are proud to have three of the five entrances. We'll celebrate this living treasure with Bruce Keller's award-winning photos and a lively look at our visits to this wonderful place. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family, loss, love and more. www.whereiscookie.com

  • Quiet, calming Kauai Hilton Garden offers relaxing retreat from war, virus, worry

    Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers are greeted with leis at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on a romantic get-away. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU -- like most of the rest of the world -- yearn for a tranquil, beautiful place to put aside your worries for a few days, you won't do better than Hawaii's "Garden Isle," Kauai. You won't find a more pampering, relaxing place to nap, read a book, take a hike or recharge the romance in your life than at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on picturesque Wailua Bay. We stopped to smell the flowers, which are everywhere. The welcoming inn is only two stories tall -- no building can be taller than the tallest palm tree.  This wise edict was mandated decades ago by the people of this charming island and has preserved its feeling of "country" and untouched beauty. Kauai appetizers:  macadamia nut bread and pineapple, with a bouquet of Hawaiian flowers. WE'VE BEEN coming to Kauai since the 1970s -- separately, because we didn't know one another then, then together the past 15 years.  Each of us has fond memories of Kauai and on this trip together, we agreed that its quiet island charm remains much as it was 50 years ago, particularly at Hilton Garden Inn.  The hotel has a "hands on" staff, trained with the aloha spirit that marks this small island's feeling of hospitality.  Management decrees that guests are to be treated like royalty -- and we were. The hotel's residents include well  fed roosters, patrolling the grounds. ROOM SERVICE was delivered by the amiable marketing director, Sarah Cara, who stayed to visit and make sure our needs were met.  She gave us pointers on nearby attractions, including lovely Lydgate Beach Park, where we took a picnic the next day and enjoyed snorkeling and lazing on the lovely beach. THE HOTEL  is close to Wailua Bay and Opaekaa Falls. The famed Sleeping Giant Trail Head and Fern Grotto are nearby, too. We booked the famous Smith Family Luau, just a five-minute drive away (more later) and easily maneuvered the 15 minutes to Wailua Falls, Kapaa town, and the quiet Lihue Airport, where we'd picked up our baggage outside and found the rental car kiosk within easy walking distance. The hotel's  all-day restaurant, pools with poolside bar, and rooms with balconies and ocean views add to the charm of the place. KAUAI'S BEAUTY goes back eons, when a defect near the middle of the huge Pacific Tectonic Plate allowed molten lava to escape. It emerged, boiling and hissing onto the ocean floor seven miles down. Slowly, land rose until 30 million years ago when a volcano formed Kure Atoll, emerging from the sea into sunlight. The drive north from Kapaa leads to stunning views. Thus Kauai was born, at first much larger than it is today. Crashing waves from trade winds and storms eroded the north shore to form the stunning Napali Coast, with cliffs plunging 3,000 feet into the sea. Dozens of huge fault breaks formed canyons -- Waimea is the deepest and most spectacular -- and dramatic valleys formed along the canyon's eastern slopes. Volcanos, craters, calderas and gorgeous beaches make this beautiful island one of the world's most coveted. Yet it has remained quiet and still has a rural feel if one exits the beaten path. Bruce Keller enjoys an ice cream outside Skinny Mike's in Kauai.  KAPAA IS "the town," an unincorporated community and census-designated place in Kauai County. It is the most populous town on Kauai, with a population just over 11,000. Thus there is no "big city" on the island -- which is fine with us. Kauai is a favorite honeymoon spot. Known for its natural beauty and dramatic sites, it's a place to hide away from it all. We took a day trip to beautiful Waimea Canyon (with its gorgeous Coconut Coast). We enjoyed the islands gorgeous mountains and waterfalls, white sand beaches, sugarcane fields, and beachside cliffs on the Napali coast, the most isolated land mass in the world. Kauai Coffee: tops, says Bruce Keller . MY COFFEE snob partner also guided us to Kauai Coffee, the largest coffee plantation in the United States. He pronounced its java "the best I've sampled in my tastings around the globe."  Perfect climate -- cool nights and warm days, plus rich volcanic soil, Pacific trade winds and mountain rains make it so flavorful, says he.  In his younger days, coffee loving Bruce Keller took off his clothes with his college buddies and waterskied Kauai's Wailua River. That was a few decades ago.  This time, we didn't spot any naked adventurers on the tranquil river. We simply took a sedate fully clothed boat ride past gorgeous waterfalls and lush, jungle landscapes along the island's East Side.   KAUAI HAS  the only navigable rivers in Hawaii, which lead to more than natural beauty.  Ice cream, coffee, home cooking and the best loco moco we've had await.   We've tried many variations, but the one we had in Kapaa was best: a nap-inducing gourmand's bomb of   white rice, topped with a hamburger, fried egg, and brown gravy.   www.hiltongardeninnkapaa.guestreservations.com www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin was on the bucket list for Cookie's mother, along with a kiss and a visit to the fabled Blarney Stone. UP NEXT: A salute to Ireland and St. Patrick, as we remember trips to the Emerald Isle and a special brother whose ashes will be sprinkled there next summer.  Ireland is part of our family's history, and memorable trips with family are treasured. We revisit Dublin, with its beautiful cathedral and lively pubs, take a look at tourism highlights and enticements, and describe a mother's bucket list kissing of the Blarney Stone. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at nature, travel, the arts, cruising, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Hawaiian fire dance @ Hilton: fiery show is steeped in tradition, meaning

    Beautiful costumes, magical lighting, talented dancers with garlands of leaves enhance the show at Hilton Garden Inn, Kauai.  The fire dance show is expertly performed, with live music. DRUMS, FIRE, DANCING CREATE EVENING OF SPECTACULAR ENCHANTMENT, AS WE LEARN OF POLYNESIAN CULTURE  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene "Cookie" Meyers, left, and Bruce Keller join the company of the Ahi Uila Fire Show in Kauai . DRUMS POUND as colorfully clad dancers move onto the stage, carrying flickering tiki torches which sway in time to the rhythm. The audience quivers in anticipation of an entertaining evening.  Soon, a dozen skilled performers will have the full house gasping, whistling and applauding.  WE WERE  witnessing a spectacular fire show, learning a great deal about the distinctly varied cultures of the Polynesian islands. We booked our spectacular fire dance show at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai. It did not disappoint. We knew we were in a special place, where island people celebrate centuries old traditions and teach the audience of their cultures. A dancer moves with the flames. WE WERE the last ones into the sold-out performance hall, which proved to be lucky.  The main tables were occupied so a creative maitre d' snapped his fingers and quickly ushered us to a high-top cocktail table which had magically materialized.  While the tablecloth was laid, we took our comfortable seats to admire the show and listen to the narration.  We were slightly left of the stage, with an excellent perspective of the performers and fast-moving series of stories.   NORMALLY, the dinner show is held outside, but ocean tradewinds and the threat of rain moved it indoors.  Every Tuesday, though, the fascinating production is staged -- outside or "plan B" -- indoors, with doors and windows open wide.  Warm tropical winds near the Wailua River are usually gentle, but in times of strong winds, the threat of fire from the tiki torches is too great to chance.  Even indoors, the experience is unforgettable. Billed as the "Ahi Uila Fire Show," the drama's usual backdrop is on the resort's Mamahune's Lawn. Inside or out, the friendly aloha spirit blankets the evening of fire dancing, fire eating, hula, sword play and more. We felt thoroughly immersed in Polynesian culture with the exhilarating beat of Polynesian drumming and a well written narration. WE ASKED one of the ensemble what the fire dance means to him when we lingered after the show. "In our culture, dancing can signify loss and mourning, joy, celebration, sensuality, religious worship or even war," he said. Three dancers play out a story in moody lighting. Many cultures use fire dancing to honor their past and teach children and visitors about their heritage, he explained. The well known dance form is found around the world from Africa to Mexico and South America and many parts of Polynesia. Various tribes on several continents have practiced fire rituals or fire dances as far back as the 13th century CE, where the Aztecs of Mexico dedicated their practices to the god of fire, whom they called Xiuhtecuhti. WE LEARNED  that fire dancing is not actually Hawaiian born.  Its heritage is Samoan, but Hawaiian performers have learned and perfected it, finding it attractive to tourists and a popular dinner show addition. "Siva afi" or fire knife dancing, is also Samoan in heritage, incorporating the fierce looking Samoan weapon "nifo oti," or war knife. Part of the show involves bringing the fire close to the  audience, a full house which normally is seated outside. We saw performers twirl the weapon and demonstrate other acrobatic tricks that had all of us in the audience tilted forward on our seats. EVEN FARTHER away, in New Zealand, poi fire dancing offers yet another form of fire performance, this time derived from the Maori culture. Performers swing a chain or rope around their bodies, while a weighted ball and wick on each end are on fire. Dancers make large, circular motions   encompassing their bodies, all to the beat of the music. This dancer looks as if he might be in pain from the fire, but he is really just concentrating. Seldom do the dancers actually get burned. The evening -- called the Ahi Uila Fire Show -- is narrated by a storyteller who gives a lively history of the origins of the Hawaiian islands and its many immigrants -- each bringing his culture's art along.  The performers bringing the story of Hawaii and its Polynesian connection alive. AFTER THE  show, I asked one of the performers why the fire didn't seem to burn -- although we thought we'd seen a couple of the dancers grimace when the flames came too close. He chuckled and said, yes, it is possible to be burned, but usually that doesn't happen because the wicks are made from kevlar and soaked in fuel -- either alcohol or paraffin -- before they are set on fire. Then when spun, the effect is dramatic. Most of the available fire poi on the island are lightweight, and have a twisted link. Another trick: heat-resistant stainless steel connectors protect the performers against burns. None of this information detracted from the power of the show. In fact, it enhanced it. MUCH LIKE  a buffet at a Hawaiian luau, the performance at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai is an entertainment smorgasbord. It artfully incorporates hula, dancing, singing, drums and a history lesson into its own unique visual stew. Fire dance at the Garden Inn on Kauai offers history lessons along with spectacle. It's a potpourri of performance from many of the beautiful islands of Polynesia. AS THE narrator explained, each dance in the fire show is associated with a specific island group, and is special to a specific culture. Hula comes from the islands of Hawaii, Tahitian derives from the islands of Tahiti, the haka and poi balls originated in New Zealand, fire knife dancing from Samoa. Hawaiians have woven a visual tapestry of myriad dances with a thoughtful narration stressing the individuality and unique aspects of each number. The Garden Inn's fire show pays unique tribute to the spicy variety that makes this excellent Hawaiian performance so memorable. More information on Kauai, the resort and the fireshow: www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai www.hgikauai.com/ahi-lele-fire-show .   We boarded a Flagship vessel this week for prime whale viewing off the coast of southern California. Next up. UP NEXT : Whale of a time! The San Diego whale watching season starts in mid-December and lasts until late April.  So we have a few more weeks to watch in wonder as 20,000 gray whales migrate through California waters headed for warmer climes in the Baja.  We saw a few whales this week -- some already heading back north to Alaska, but a few stragglers heading south. With our 78 miles of coastline, we are directly in the migration path so it's a perfect place to watch. We've even seen the magnificent grays from land, but we like to get closer via water, so we're sharing our joy. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, performance, music, art, theater and dance, family, dining, famous cities and off-the-beaten path wonders: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Hawaii's Lyman Museum highlights wildlife, sea life, Polynesian travel, rich island history

    Hawaii"s fascinating history is told in striking exhibits and displays at Lyman Museum in Hilo HILO MUSEUM OFFERS WORLD CLASS STUDY OF SETTLING OF HAWAII, CRAFTS, ART, CULTURE AND A HISTORIC HOME BUILT BY MISSIONARY TEACHERS Murals, paintings and expertly written commentary tell the fascinating story of the settlement of Hawaii. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER New England born Lymans brought their "Cape Cod" style architecture to build in Hawaii. IF YOU THINK of Hawaii  -- and only seashells, hula and palm trees come to mind -- you'll be pleasantly surprised when you visit the Lyman Museum and Mission House. Located in Hilo, on "the Big Island" of Hawaii, this treasure is Smithsonian-affiliated and the islands' only museum of natural and cultural history. Its large collection of intriguing artifacts is displayed throughout more than 20,000 square feet of open, airy and well designed galleries.  Expertly curated and sometimes surprising exhibits range from a beautifully illustrated history of the islands' settlement to a tour of the home next door, built by New England missionaries and teachers, David and Sarah Lyman in 1839. The much visited museum began with the home,  the Lyman Mission House, built near its present location and moved in 1931, nearly 100 years later. The museum was established by Lyman descendants and both buildings are carefully tended by docents who also give lively tours. THE NICELY restored Mission House is home to both furniture owned and built by the Lymans and other period pieces acquired by the museum which achieved status with both the State and National Registers of Historic Places. We admired lovely hand-crafted furniture, tools, household items, and artifacts used by the Lymans and other early missionary families. x The Lyman house is on the State and National Registers of  Historic Places and an important artifact of the Museum. The much larger Lyman Museum building, next door to the Mission House, was constructed in 1971.  We admired its superb collection of artifacts and natural history exhibits -- displayed in an impressively large and open space. A handsome gift shop offers handmade Hawaiian souvenirs -- classy, not airport kitsch. VISITORS TOURING the two facilities can see the old Mission House and life as it was 150 years ago, then go next door to inspect immersive exhibits on a range of Hawaiian natural history and culture. Through our Lyman Mission House guide, Jan, we enjoyed a glimpse into the life of the Lymans Lyman, who sailed 5,000 miles from New England in 1832 to build the island's oldest standing wood structure. Exquisite feather work is on show. Jan conveyed the courage of the couple -- rounding "The Horn" in a six-month voyage, before the Panama Canal, to craft a house without electricity or running water. WE SPENT  a good share of our afternoon visit in the museum's newly renovated Heritage Gallery which studies  Polynesian settlement and the life of these early Hawaiian people. We studied nicely displayed tools and implements crafted from native materials so these inventive people could farm, fish, build canoes and structures, grow crops, prepare and serve food, fashion weapons and adornments, and create clothing, coverings, and containers. This pair of Muscovy ducks kept watch outside the museum. THE SHELLS , rocks and feather work are stunning. So is an artistic exhibit on Hawaii's famous waterfowl.    The museum involves the community in learning, enrichment projects and guest artists, offering a range of educational programs from special lectures and talks to hands-on workshops on Hawaiian skills and crafts.  A favorite exhibit of locals is "Lei Hulu" featuring traditional Hawaiian feather work, exquisitely done.  Regional exhibits also draw attention. “Sasana: The Burma Portfolio,” features images of the Burmese people and their land, showcased the work of a noted Hawaii-based photographer. Bruce Keller looks to the horizon in front of a colorful mural at Lyman Museum, which offers a fascinating immersion in the complex culture of Hawaii .    THE GALLERY spends time on their spiritual beliefs and social relationships and diplomatically studies the influences of "Agents of Change," a variety of early European explorers, whalers, traders, missionaries and people from the mainland.  All helped shape the  islands' government, land use, economy and education. x Tools are nicely displayed with commentary on their use and how they were made. WE ENJOY this aspect of our frequent Hawaii visits. It's an appealing "melting pot," a multi-cultural mecca.  The museum notes these important contributors: Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese and Korean immigrants who worked the sugar plantations, contributed to an evolving language and brought new foods and music. That exotic blend shaped what Hawaiian people consider “local."  HAWAII'S POLITICAL  development is also carefully analyzed. The Monarchy's early class-based society is explained, leading up to Hawaii's statehood in 1959.  We learned how David Kalākaua, Hawaii's last and "Merrie Monarch” -- revived hula. He loved this graceful traditional Hawaiian dance, and helped revitalize it and other waning art traditions, ushering in a "cultural renaissance" in Hawaii. The museum's many and varied exhibits include this lovely three-dimensional display on Hawaii's waterbirds. THE MUSEUM  and next-door home are popular with schools and students are welcome. Our guide, Jan, noted that this is appropriate since high school boys crafted some of the furniture in the home. A highlight of the gallery is the "Kīpuka," an interactive learning space where students enjoy hands-on activities: Hawaiian kapa and tattoo design, mat plaiting, storytelling through hula, chant, petroglyphs, and oral legends. They take home their artwork -- learning  traditional techniques and an appreciation for the rich culture inspiring the artforms. Admissions are surprisingly low -- only a few dollars, with locals getting a price break.  www.lymanmuseum.org The seductive charms of La Casa del Zorro await you, a desert hotel offering a peaceful get-away with all the amenities of a resort or big-city property.  UP NEXT: A retreat in the desert -- both elegant and relaxed -- awaits at La Casa del Zorro in Borrego, Springs, a beautiful hotel with all the amenities of a big city resort yet the quiet and calming surroundings of one of the world's most picturesque deserts. "La Casa" offers private casitas and a handsomely decorated hotel, bird life, walking trails, a spa, yoga classes, tennis and a fine restaurant and bar with specialties of the house and something for every taste. Then as we approach hurricane season in Hawaii, we visit a fascinating Tsunami Museum. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com   UP NEXT: La Casa del Zorro is a stately yet relaxed hotel in the desert near Borrego Springs, Calif.

  • Midway marvels: historic wartime vessel engages visitors in San Diego

    Interested visitors come and go on the top deck of the USS Midway. Actor Tom Cruise in "Top Gun." Press promotion shots were made aboard USS Enterprise, not Midway as many people think. Cruise posed for  photos on San Diego's waterfront where Midway now resides and is a popular tourist attraction.  STUNNING MIDWAY MUSEUM TELLS TALES OF WAR, HEROISM, HONOR,  VICTORY AT SEA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE USS MIDWAY MUSEUM in San Diego is a unique testimony to the power of military might, brilliant design and the dedication of hundreds of people devoted to the concept of service to country. Midway Museum is both an enormous floating ship and a fascinating museum. The famous aircraft carrier -- named for the Battle of Midway -- is a carefully curated collection of more than 60 exhibits. Hospital, cafeteria, quarters, rooms where battle strategy was discussed.... you'll even have an opportunity to "chat" with the captain in an "animatronics" exhibit, in one of the museum's many interesting chambers. Bruce Keller in the cockpit of a Midway plane.  This one allows visitors to sit inside. Bruce Keller, aka "Keller" and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day on the top deck of Midway. We climbed aboard recently in my husband's hometown, with guests from Britain. We four had a wonderful time on this historic, fascinating "fighting machine" as we explored exhibits, walked through cabins and viewed 29 carefully restored aircraft.  THE FAMOUS  Battle of Midway -- in June of 1942 of World War II -- turned the tide of war between the United States and Japan. Although Midway was built in a record 17 months, she missed World War II by a week, commissioned on Sept. 10, 1945. So while she was not in the battle for which she is named, she played a crucial part in other actions, particularly Operation Desert Storm. Jazzercise dancers exercise in celebration in a fundraiser to fight breast cancer on Midway. The ship is beloved by its port. HERE'S WHAT we learned of that: On Jan. 17, 1991, aircraft from Carrier Air Wing 5 launched from the flight deck of Midway in a combat air campaign against Iraq, preparing the battlefield for a coalition of nations’ counter-invasion and the liberation of Kuwait. This was in response to the surprise attack and seizure of the small, oil-rich kingdom by Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein’s military.   Midway's career was officially nearing the end. The rapid collapse of communism after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 rendered the Cold War moot, and the Midway -- after nearly 50 years of service -- was slated for decommissioning. But the aging carrier didn't fade away. On Oct. 2, she cast off from Yokosuka, Japan, bound for the Persian Gulf. She arrived Nov. 1 to relieve the USS Independence to watch over oil fields. With military action likely, the Midway was joined by USS Ranger and USS Theodore Roosevelt battlegroups. Despite her age, the Midway remained the flagship for the rest of the Gulf conflict. She was decommissioned in San Diego and remained in storage in Bremerton, Washington until 2003 when she was donated to the San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum organization. It opened as the USS Midway Museum in June 2004. Bravo, Midway. The Midway from the sea strikes a handsome pose. MANY GROUPS and organizations  visit Midway. Music groups are regularly scheduled to play on her top deck; a community band serenaded us with patriotic tunes and Sousa marches the day we visited. Movies are shown from time to time, including the film "Midway" and of course, "Top Gun," starring Tom Cruise. My Jazzercise group celebrated the 50th birthday of Jazzercise aboard Midway, with a thousand of us dancing to celebrate  the ship and our exercise program's fight for a cancer cure. "The Kiss" can be seen from San Diego's embarcadero near Midway.  Yorkshire visitors Sue and John Speight enjoyed a day on San Diego's waterfront and especially their Midway and Star of India visits. HIGHLIGHTS of our recent visit: a walking tour through the officers' quarters, and a contrasting look at the much smaller and more cramped enlisted men's bunks.  Our friends -- who also visited nearby Star of India with us --  took the elevator down to the galley and infirmary area and pronounced it fascinating. "We were impressed with the realistic food display and layout of the galley," said Sue Speight. Added husband John, "It's amazing how they churned out hundreds of meals for the sailors in such limited space." The two found the compact infirmary "incredibly well equipped to be able to deal with all the ailments and emergencies they encountered." One of San Diego's most famous artworks -- "The Kiss" statue -- is very near Midway and worth a short walk to view. It's inspired by the famous WWII photo shot in Times Square of a sailor and nurse hugging in jubilation at war's end.   More information:  www.midway.org ;  sdmaritime.org   Plan to take visitors or family for an educational yet fun outing at the San Diego Natural History Museum, a whale of a time is guaranteed. (Here, a   replica of an extinct   megalodon shark which once lived here, awaits your view.)   UP NEXT: The San Diego Natural History Museum in the captivating city's beautiful Balboa Park, is an educational yet fun place, a wonderful family outing.  It was founded in 1874 as the San Diego Society of Natural History and is the second oldest scientific institution west of the Mississippi, the oldest in Southern California. From the life of native peoples, to vegetation, minerals and, dinosaurs, visitors will find it an interesting place to spend a few hours. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com sdnat.org

  • Natural History Museum is treasure trove in San Diego's Balboa Park

    A patron pauses outside the San Diego Natural History Museum, where fans of nature and the natural world are treated to a variety of exhibits which inspire to visit and appreciate nature and the diversity of the San Diego region.   A long extinct shark, whose teeth were found near Oceanside, Calif., greets visitors in artful replica. ARTFUL EXHIBITION SPACE IS A HIGHLIGHT OF A VISIT TO SAN DIEGO'S BEAUTIFUL BALBOA PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SAN DIEGO  Natural History Museum makes for a great family outing. A magnificent dinosaur skeleton, bears, elephants and more await inspection, framed by colorful murals. Affectionately nicknamed "The Nat," it's also perfect for visitors looking to get a feel for our region, for   couples seeking an educational yet fun outing, or for a single person who wants a beautifully curated stroll for a look at life as it continues to evolve and change in southern California and the Baja California peninsula. First, there's a remarkable Moreton Bay Fig Tree gracing the lawn in front of the museum -- planted in 1915 for the city's famous Panama-California Exhibition. Inside, visitors tilt heads upward to gaze at a realistic looking replica of an extinct megalodon shark, inspired by teeth collected from Miocene sandstones in Oceanside, California, and near Ensenada, Baja California. Minerals are "hidden" throughout the museum. WE WATCHED people posing for animated selfies in the atrium there, and knew we were in for a treat by the pleased comments of visitors coming and going. Evolution and diversity are what this well established museum is about. Founded in 1874, the San Diego Society of Natural History is the oldest scientific institution in southern California, and the third oldest west of the Mississippi. The name was tweaked as the building and ambitions grew and the Society grew from a small group of natural history lovers and collectors to a large museum with 8 million specimens, spectacular outreach programs, and award-winning exhibitions. So for nearly a century and a half, the organization has delighted and educated hundreds of thousands of us . Bruce Keller, left, with Sue and John Speight, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, in Balboa Park. WE TOOK GUESTS,   a pair of history buffs from York, England.  They're natural history museum aficionados, having visited some of the great ones around the world: Vienna, Cambridge, London, Dublin, Geneva. Our San Diego treasure, they noted, is no slouch, compared to the others these world travelers have seen. For 150 years, the organization has studied, protected, and introduced people to nature's wonders. Its museum  doesn't disappoint. Exhibits span five levels with a sparkling and clever "hidden gems" display starting in a small corner of the basement, then appearing on a corner of each floor, thus the "hidden" moniker. On up to the ground entrance floor, or Level 1, as it's called, for several learning labs about various topics including your own back yard. A wonderful movie theater shows three revolving films. We picked "Dinosaurs of Antarctica" -- thoroughly entertaining.   We followed this fascinating creature from Permian through Jurassic periods -- emerging from his south polar landscapes hundreds of millions of years ago. The museum's open, airy expanse offers a pleasant perspective and draws the eye upwards and around. WATCHING AN engaging film with friends about our own planet and the creatures who struggled for survival gave us fodder for dinner conversation later in the day, as we pondered the emergence of giant mammals, fierce carnivores, gentle vegetarian giants and the scientists who work to understand the effect of the ice continent's transformation on us. Two other films rotate -- and both won praise from viewers and fellow museum enthusiasts we met. A grade-school teacher with her charges said "The Story of Earth" had her class spellbound. "It takes the planet from dying stars, through collisions in space into the world we know today -- with life forms unknown elsewhere in the universe."  All with beautiful special effects, she said, and dialogue that kept easily distracted kids entertained. "Ocean Oasis" is the third film, which takes viewers on a journey through two seemingly opposite worlds -- Mexico's Sea of Cortes and the great Baja California desert. A beautiful fig tree graces the lawn in front of the museum. The stately tree is one of the oldest in California. OTHER EXHIBITS  include "The Living Lab," a display popular with curious youngsters and others of us who love critters.  We viewed lizards, snakes, scorpions and more; "Coast to Cactus" shows the diversity of this corner of California where a person can surf in the ocean, hike in the desert and ski on a hilltop in the same day.  There's a wonderful dinosaur skeleton replica -- cast from bones found in Utah; 200 (count 'em!) skulls of every kind, a lovely California flowers photo display, fossils and "Cool Stuff From Storage," which shows off intriguing items from the archives. An  exhibit on Baja is coming soon. A fascinating exhibit on amazing discoveries by ordinary people caught Cookie's attention. The museum is respected for its outings and video offerings: A "Virtual Live Lesson: Earth Wants You" is Friday, April 22, at 10 a.m. "Nature Hike: Pacific Crest Trail - Eagle Rock," is Sunday, April 24, at 9 a.m.; "Nat Talk: Picture a Scientist," is Thursday, April 28, at 6:30 p.m.; "City Nature Challenge" is Friday, April 29, at 3:41 p.m.; "Nature Hike: Oakoasis Preserve, Oak Grove Trail," is May 7 (check the museum for time.) The popular "Nat Talks"  feature museum staff and other experts speaking on the latest in scientific research, history, conservation, and the natural world. The museum's website is a good place to confirm times and get a wealth of information about changing exhibits and outings. Remember that residents can visit Balboa Park museums free on rotating days throughout the month.  sdnat.org   Bruce Keller admires a mural at Hilo, Hawaii's famed Lyman Museum and Mission House, which takes visitors on a colorful, engaging tour of the islands' history. UP NEXT : While we're visiting world class museums, check out this one -- even if only by "armchair travel." In Hilo, Hawaii, the Lyman Museum and Mission House takes visitors into the natural and cultural history of the Hawaiian Islands with over 20,000 square feet of stunning galleries. Affiliated with the Smithsonian, the two-part museum includes fascinating exhibits and a 19th Century Mission House. Volcanoes, wildlife, sea life, nature habitats and more await. Meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

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