England-born Sue Speight and American Christene "Cookie" Meyers in York Minster, go back to back in an ancient part of the hallowed cathedral. The two friends have an array of colloquialisms and enjoy one another's language differences. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Sisters Misha, Cookie and Olivia, with niece Amarylla are bundled up in "jumpers" and "overcoats" UK style. In the US, sweaters and jackets. ASK FOR a burger and fries and you're likely to get a blank look in the United Kingdom. "You mean chips?" asks the waitress. "No, I don't want potato chips.....Oh, yes, that's right. Fries are chips here, so yes, please, I'd like chips with my burger." That was years back, 30 trips ago to England, Scotland and Wales. I soon learned that there are more than a few fun differences in language and many harmless ways to tease one another. George Bernard Shaw famously said that “England and America are two countries separated by the same language.” On my first adult visit to the Cotswolds with college friends, the hotel clerk asked, "When would you like a knock-up?" Of course he meant, "When should we call to awaken you?" Naturally, in the U.S. it means with child, as in "she's knocked up." Chips in America are potato chips. Chips are french fries in the UK and if you want our chips, ask for crisps. WHEN ORDERING FROM a menu or shopping, residents of both countries may climb a learning curve. In England, our eggplant is aubergine; Zucchini is courgette. Molasses is treacle. Shrimp are always prawns in the UK. And if someone offers you a biscuit with afternoon tea, do say yes. It's a cookie, not that morning pastry we load up with jam. untri for a foreigner in either country is often confusing. These are called chips (in the UK) and fries (in the states.) "Let" means to rent out in England, to allow in the U.S., "please let me pass." Flat is an apartment in the UK, off-key or low of pitch in America. Cookie takes a break at "interval" during a play; in the UK that's what we in the U.S. call intermission. AA is an automobile association in England, Alcoholics Anonymous or American Airlines in the US. In the UK, a la mode -- fashionable; in the US, with ice cream Lounge can mean a room of relaxation in the UK; in America, always a bar with alcohol. banger, in the UK is a sausage, or car on its last legs; in America, it's a gang member, party or song. Bash means "have a go" to a Brit; in America, a fun party. BOMB IS a particularly fun word to analyze on both sides of the pond. In the UK, the phrase has long meant a striking success. That's catching on in the US, but it still means to go south in a hurry as in "opening night completely bombed." It can also mean to imbibe excessively. In our country, a governor is head of a state; in the UK, he's "boss" of something. This photo of the Eiffel Tower might be called "brilliant" in the UK, "pretty" in US A boot in the UK is a car trunk, while in the US it means footwear. A lorey is the UK's version of truck. In the UK, a jumper is not something you use to start a dead car engine. It's a sweater. BOTTLE CAN mean courage in the UK; in the US it's a container. Jelly is a dessert in England; in the US, it's fruit spread for toast. Aside from its better known meaning, a hog in the UK can also be a yearling sheep; in the US, it's slang for a hot motorcycle. Brilliant in the UK means tops or very best; in the US, it means bright, smart, pretty. These Englishmen and women are enjoying a pint at the pup, where in the U.S., we'd have a drink in the bar. Pecker means courage "keep your pecker up" in the UK; it's penis in our country and "willie" is a UK penis. (My Irish gran also referred to a man's "John Thomas," --"he should keep it in his pants.") A geezer in the US means an old fart; in the UK, he's a gangster. Buffet in England means a snack, usually on a train; in the US it is a sideboard or serve-yourself arrangement, sometimes lavish. INTERVAL is a theater intermission in the UK; in America, a gap in space or time. A "jolly" can be a short trip in England (she's off on a jolly) while in America it means jovial. Our vacation is an Englishman's holiday. Bugger -- don't bother me: "bugger off" in the UK; in America, an endearing term for a child. "What a cute little bugger.". Carriage in England is usually a railway coach; in America, transportation for a youngster. This train car might be called a carriage in the UK. Mind in the UK means watch. "Mind the step." "Give way" means watch out or let pass. Crisp; thin fried pastry, like our chips; in America, an adjective meaning crunchy. Entree is a starter in the UK, a main course in America. A UK half is a half-pint, usually beer; in the US it's a measurement. Our bars are their pubs. Pissed means drunk in England, angry in the US, with an "off" added. A bonnet is a car hood in England; in the US, it's a lady's hat. Our overalls are UK dungarees. Our robes are dressing gowns in the UK, where a vest is a waistcoat. A macintosh is a raincoat in the UK. Sneakers or trainers? Galoshes or wellies? Depends on which side of the pond you call home. These kids might be called bairn in Scotland and North England; they could also be referred to as tykes, tots, nippers, moppets or squirts. (Our great- niece and nephew, Penelope Margaret and James Brian Ganner.) A jock is a Scotsman in the UK, or a private soldier; in the US, an athlete. We don't use "nick" often but in England, it's a common word for ''steal." Ditto pinch. Panda is UK slang for a police car while we think of an adorable endangered animal. KNICKERS -- women's underwear in England, "don't get your knickers in a tizzy." Seldom used in the US. Frame in the UK can mean plan or propose something: "let's frame it." In the US it's what goes around a painting or photo or a scheme to misrepresent or set someone up. A mate is a friend, not a partner or spouse. A mobile is a cell phone in England while we use the word to mean able to move easily. A mum is a mother; we think of a flower or a caution for quiet. A nappy is a diaper in England. In the US, a wee snooze. THE FIRST floor in the UK and Europe is our second floor. Ground level in America is their first floor. And never the twain shall meet.....isn't it fun? Keller and Cookie with Nick and Nora on a recent hike in San Diego. NEXT UP: Join us as we bid farewell to a loyal friend and true road warrior, Nora, our beloved Yorkshire terrier. We look back on her lively life, her travels with us and her circle of global friends and admirers. We explore her musical tastes and recall her fondness for Greenies and strawberry ice cream. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, love and live and visit us Fridays for a fresh take on travel, the arts, family, pets, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Bohemian Bus Beautiful represents a delightful retro-inspired alternative to traditional hotels and hostelries. CONVERTED BUS PROVIDES ARTISTIC GET-AWAY FOR CHILDREN OF THE WOODSTOCK ERA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grounds reflect More's artistic bent and world travels. YOU'LL BE happily falling down the Rabbit Hole if you venture into Bohemian Bus Beautiful. Proprietor and designer Blake More wants you to remember her unique home -- and you will. WORLD TRAVELER, artist, poet, More hadn't planned to stay long in her spread near Point Arena, Calif. When she moved to Mendocino County 22 years ago, she figured she'd last about three years "before I got the urge to pick up and fling myself elsewhere." The imaginative bus remodeling project took place between More's yoga teaching, school workshops (she collaborates with musicians to encourage young students' creativity), and her inspired artwork which includes collage, tile work, painting, sculpture, sewing, needle art and floral arranging. Every corner of the property reflects her artistry -- from the gorgeously appointed Malibu Shower complete with tile, plants and a half-dozen choices of soaps and lotions. Her nature-inspired off-grid property is a mile-plus inland from the Pacific Ocean on California's famed Highway 1, in the woodlands of beautiful southern Mendocino County, poet, performer, artist, teacher and yoga practitioner. I love to garden, swim, hike, dance and travel The artist's life of travel and residency in every continent is reflected in her artwork. have been on every continent)! Each inch of the reconfigured school bus-guest house enlightens and enlarges the guest's perspective. Her wall collages, tables, trunks and lamp shades reflect her travels and life in Cuba, Japan, Amsterdam and the Bay Area. More's immense talent in the visual arts mixes mediums seldom juxtaposed and combined. She does both those with a unique flair. Another imaginative enterprise BOTH OUTSIDE the bus and around the grounds, guests are free to admire and use outdoor bath tubs (his and hers), artful mobiles and lighting, creative furniture, rock art. Inside, the kitchen counter boasts a spectacular abalone design, mixed beautifully with a smooth finish. Light-switch plates are collages. Wood, plastic and metal all mix, merge and complement. The bathroom offers creative wall art and abundant reading choices. Blake's beautiful abalone inlay work graces the bnb's kitchen counter. The property is secluded and sunny, surrounded by organic gardens and mature trees, native flowers and bushes. Inside, a small, tidy kitchen has everything one needs to cook a pleasant meal, with several of the windows screened to accommodate evening breezes. The queen bed is comfortable and pillows abound, for propping up for a late-night read. Cooler nights and crisp mornings are warmed by a cozy wood stove. Cookie and Keller relax at Bohemian Bus Beautiful. Another artist's vision WE FOUND ourselves fascinated from the beginning of our three-day stay to the end. There is such an abundance of creativity, detail and inspiration that one needs to spend at least a couple days to fully appreciate it. Even the bathroom, a short stroll from the bus, is inspired. "Comfy, creative, welcoming" describe the spirit of Bohemian Bus Beautiful. And, important news for us, the bnb is small-dog friendly. Just let Blake know in the initial negotiations. Rates are reasonable and longer stays result in a price break. airbnb.com; californiaoneway.com › bohemian-bus The architecture of the Mayan classical period is described by a guide at the historic site of Iximche. UP NEXT: Guatemala. Come explore the ruins of the Mayan people in the remote villages of Guatemala. We visit archeological sites including Iximche, for a look at a remarkable historical legacy left by indigenous people. Come with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com.

The 2020 season at Oregon Shakespeare Festival includes ten promising productions in three venues. Here, the Allen Elizabethan Theatre will present "The Tempest," "Black Odyssey" and "Bernhardt/Hamlet." OSF celebrates its 85th anniversary with a wide ranging repertoire featuring revered classics and acclaimed new work. PAIR OF BIRTHDAYS: FESTIVAL's 85th and BOWMER THEATER'S 50th The Ashland Hills Hotel offers a quiet, relaxing place to stay, in southern Oregon's beautiful Rogue Valley. THRILLING THEATER IN THREE DISTINCT VENUES DRAWS ROAD TRIPPERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie samples the healing fizzy waters of Lithia Fountain, said to contain healthy, healing properties. TIME TO BOOK your tickets for the remarkable 2020 season of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. A year without a trip to Ashland, to revel in the country's finest repertory venue would be a sad year indeed. So what to see? Why not sample the entire docket. Shakespeare, of course, with "The Tempest," "A Midsummer Night's Dream," and more; cutting edge new work; fun music and adventuresome, thought-provoking theater, for OSF pushes the envelope. Prepare for inventive staging as the company delivers its engaging 85th season. "Jubilee" A mural near Lithia Park down the steps from the Angus Bowmer Theatre and Members Lounge. The colorful artwork is classic Ashland. year promises the quality and diversity that marked the festival when founder Angus Bowmer had the dream in 1935. OSF's "punch" has a proud heritage since Bowmer staged boxing matches to fund his theatrical vision. His early festivals offered variety and originality. Today's playbill honors that concept through new work and classics with an inventive OSF spin. "The Merry Wives of Windsor," won praise for its beautifully staged telling of the Shakespeare favorite. Ensemble. -- photo for OSF by Jenny Graham ALL THIS is delivered by a diverse company of professional actors from across the U.S., in the lovely hill-surrounded setting of Ashland, Oregon. This pastoral but sophisticated southern Oregon town offers abundant diversions to attract the drama and nature buff -- tranquil Lithia Park, dramatic beauty in nearby Crater Lake National Park, river rafting the beautiful Rogue River, fine shopping with area craftsmen and artists sharing their talents, delightful "First Friday" art walks through the town's many galleries, restaurants with something for every palate and budget, a film festival, movie theater and quaint charm of nearby Jacksonville. BOTH THE 85th anniversary season of the Festival and the 50th anniversary of the opening of the Angus Bowmer Theatre begin the weekend of Friday, March 6. Tickets are selling out for the historic weekend, with shows opening in the Bowmer Theatre and nearby Thomas Theatre. (The Allen Elizabethan Theatre opens in May when the weather warms.) The town of Jacksonville is unique because the entire village is on the National Register. THE THEATER buff with eclectic tastes is in heaven here with world class work performed by a versatile, accomplished company. You'll find experienced, innovative directors and a wide mix of playwrights. The festival's popular Green Show offers free, fun pre-play entertainment before evening performances begin. Memberships begin at a reasonable $35. If you have deeper pockets and the desire to honor a loved one, consider endowing a chair. We have endowed three through our half-century plus at OSF. Discussions, back-stage tours, pre-show entertainment, and other enhancements are part of the draw. Live music is offered by first-rate musicians, such as this cellist who plays Bach, Mozart and more regularly in Lithia Park. TICKETS SHOULD be booked now for the landmark 2020 season, which closes Nov. 1, with a range of 10 plays including intriguing new work, from a festival favorite, the bard's "A Midsummer Night's Dream" cutting edge plays with a message and a family musical, "Peter and the Starcatcher." (Prepare for pirates, swashbucklers, mermaids and a ticking crocodile.) "Bring Down the House" offers Shakespeare's "Henry VI" trilogy in an ambitious two-part adaptation. Another classic, "The Tempest," takes viewers into the mystical land of the banished Prospero, with storms, supernatural machinations and OSF's twist on Shakespeare's exploration of the good, bad and gray in human nature. World premieres are always part of OSF's mission and "The Copper Children" promises social commentary with humor. "Confederates," another world premiere, features stories of two black women 160 years apart. Ducks dive for lunch on a stroll through Lithia Park near OSF. AS A FAN of the festival for more than 50 years, I'm excited to see "Bernhardt/Hamlet," celebrating the great actress determined to play Shakespeare's coveted title role. "Poor Yella Rednecks" promises humor, pathos and imagination in the story of a young couple relocating from Vietnam to Arkansas. If you loved "Vietgone," you'll look forward to Qui Nguyen's sequel, billed as an autobiographical love story. "Everything That Never Happened" takes a behind-the-scenes look at "The Merchant of Venice" exploring the life of Shylock's beloved daughter, Jessica, caught in a collision of religious beliefs and family loyalties. Many levels of participation are available, including seat endowment for a loved one or theater friend. WE LIKE TO book nine or 10 plays, enjoying the lively Ashland vibe, hiking in Lithia Park, revisiting favorite old eateries and discovering new restaurants. Humor is part of the OSF tradition, with this production from a few years back of Marx Bros. "Cocoanuts," Downtown Ashland at dusk on a cool spring evening. The Ashland Springs hotel is at the heart of the small, inviting town. Playgoers settle in for a production in the only outdoor venue at OSF, the the Allen Elizabethan Theatre here. We also enjoy Ashland's two fine Neuman Group hotels, the lovely Ashland Springs Hotel, steps from the festival downtown, and Ashland Hills Hotel in the nearby countryside, both pet friendly with fine food and tastefully appointed rooms. Strolling outside the hotels, it's fun to recognize actors in two the pubs and on the street. You'll observe them in multiple roles. EACH ACTOR participates in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in one or two others. A player may headline in one production and join the ensemble in the next, since repertory means the shows run in rotation for the months-long run. There's an intense point each June when all shows on the playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. Watch the web for specials and discounts, which often appear. www.osfashland.org or 800 219-8161; wwwAshlandHillsHotel.com;www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com; A once busy hotel pool is deserted in the wake of the virus. Next week's column shares tips, trends and warnings on travel. UP NEXT: As coronavirus sends the travel industry reeling, we look at the latest information, warnings and changes from cruise, airline and government officials. We also share our personal travel credo and future plans. In the wake of change and volatility, what should the savvy travel do? We'll try to help. Then we feature the lively Oregon Cabaret Theatre in Ashland. Plan a visit to this first-rate dinner theater on Hargadine. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The village of Zaanse Schaans on the banks of the Zaan river, features tidy houses, working windmills. If you've always wanted to visit Amsterdam, you'll find the spring tulip cruises are advertising now. WITH TRAVEL STOPPED, TIME TO FIND PLEASURE IN SIMPLER THINGS: MUSIC, ART, NATURE, CREATIVITY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The lights are dark on Broadway and near Times Square, but we're keeping the creative juices flowing writing parodies and tributes to some of our favorite musicals. WE'VE WRITTEN a Broadway homage to connect us to the theater we so dearly miss. Check it out: https://youtu.be/tIw1N6CXL2g This rainy day photo features a small harbor in Toulon, southern France. Like everyone, our "normal" is no longer. This column specializes in travel, art, concerts and plays. But since our scheduled stories feature events and venues closed and deserted until at least month's end, we're improvising, in the best show biz tradition. Bonaire is famous for its flamingos. Cruises will again have Bonaire on their itineraries. Have a look at our feature on this lovely island. Wonders of St. Croix Until things are "normalized," we're writing, taking photos and sharing some of our favorite travel photos, hoping they'll give readers ideas for lifting the cloud, dispelling the gloom. The Amalfi Coast makes good armchair reading. There are many books in the library, and on line, featuring the fabled cliffs and inlets. We are cheering ourselves up during these stressful times by looking to the future. Try it. Dig out those backlogged brochures you got from your travel agent or Triple A. Go on line to look at favorite cities, print out profiles, study the hotels and tours. We're reviewing the itinerary for the China-Australia-New Zealand trip we just cancelled. With some revisions, patience and luck, we'll be able to replicate it. Montana could offer a closer-to-home trip. Here, sandhill cranes invite you to join them near Fishtail. If you already have a big trip booked and it doesn't look like it will materialize, use this fallow time to check out refund possibilities. Then consider a trip closer to home. What about checking out the place you've always wanted to go? Nothing like being an armchair traveler when we're told to stay at home. This young Vietnamese woman was a helpful guide. Amalfi's beauty calls Have you always wanted to traverse the Amalfi Coast, visit Sorento, take a canal ride in Venice? Yes, Italy is hurting now, but it will rebound. So will we. Thinking of visiting Vietnam? Why not chart out a trip now? You'll have your ducks in a row by the time the crisis is over. You get the idea. Go with it. Northern California's coves and extraordinary coastline and beaches offers a chance to explore, commune with nature, enjoy. UP NEXT: Another week of pretty pictures, travel ideas and suggestions for clinging to sanity as the world sits still and confused, and life as it knew it is no more. Art lives on, though, and we're mining our creative in isolation, planning for the future. You can do the same, using whatever talents you possess. Take an armchair trip up the California coast, dust off your guitar and play a song. Bake something. Make something. Keep active. It's a time to be inventive and think outside the box, staying healthy and keeping to the rules of self-isolation. We can still explore, learn and live (for a while, let our exploration be through books, art music and contemplation.) We'll be back on track with whale watching and international travel as soon as possible.

A favorite breakfast of one perfectly over-easy egg on European grain bread, fruit, cheese, coffee -- yogurt and walnuts on their way -- served to perfection at the five-star Hotel Claris Grand Luxe in Barcelona. Crusty homemade bread's the best. DINING WELL IN A NEW CITY CAN BE ONE OF LIFE'S GREATEST PLEASURES Cookie's favorite lamb chops, served with asparagus spears, after an escargot appetizer. Creme brulee desert. Aboard the Celebrity Century, late seating. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ANTICIPATING THAT we'll all travel well and widely again -- once we get past the Covid19 crisis -- we're offering some dining out tips gleaned from decades of happy travel and merry quests for the best food in town. Since many of our happiest, most memorable travel times have to do with dining, it's important to us to eat well, but not necessarily expensively. Expansively, yes, but not always expensively. Sharing a meal with old friends in a foreign port, or enjoying a leisurely feast with new friends are tops in the joys of travel. But if you've just landed in Paris, Honolulu or Rome -- or a village in the Alps, Asia or South America -- how do you find a good meal? Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers, aka Keller and Cookie, dine a few weeks before Covid, at Poppie's Fish and Chips in London. WE'VE HAD wonderful luck in booking culinary walking tours early on in a visit to a new city. Eating Europe is terrific, and its lively guides offer a wonderful grounding in best eating spots. These tours are catching on worldwide, and it's a great way to orient yourself early on in the trip. It's also a fun way to taste a variety of offerings -- the city's best mix -- get a lay of the land and then decide which venues you'd like to revisit. Our London tour took us to a terrific Asian restaurant, a delightful cheese and wine venue, a lively fish and chips joint popular with locals and a tea shop with delicious chocolate pies and berry scones. Keller celebrates his birthday at a favorite rijsttafel bistro in Amsterdam. Dessert was shared with Cookie and friends. After a tour like this, you'll know what kind of regional foods you’ll want to have again. Be a schmoozer, chat up the guide, ask for favorite eateries and specialties. We asked Hilton's DoubleTree Hotel Alana's savvy marketing director, Cheryl Nasser, what her what to order at her lovely property's Trees Restaurant. A beautiful appetizer poke plate with tasty fresh tuna made a fine supper for jet-lagged travelers. An artful poke plate at the DoubleTree in Honolulu was a tasty travelers' treat. Use your noggin for excellent advice. ADD SOME fun research to your trip planning by reading up before you go. A treasure trove of posts from local food bloggers and reporters is a quick Google search away. The writers’ bread and butter is finding hot spots and sharing hidden gems. Getting recommendations from the hotel concierge is also a good plan, and some of the best restaurant tips we get are from people we meet along the way. Cab drivers are a wealth of knowledge for late-night eats, and employees at tourist spots have the scoop on what’s good nearby for lunch (with no long lines or high price). Asking people you meet is also a good icebreaker for other tips and suggestions. Before you go, post on Facebook and Twitter to see if anyone in your circle has must-visit spots to share. A street cafe in Mykonos serves fabulous appetizers, as this plate features: cucumbers, feta and Greek yogurt, olives, dolmades and plenty of pita on the side. WE MAKE it a priority to find restaurants specializing in local cuisine. Why eat food you can get at home? Stick to the basics and go with something that uses the area's produce. Maybe pizza in Asia isn’t the best plan. Sushi or Raman, yes. Even if a place looks crowded, check if it’s full of travelers or locals before you go in. Cookie's favorite dessert: ginger cookies, a single scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and berries of the season, here raspberries, at Trafalgar St. James London by Hilton. Eateries have an easier time prospering when they're near tourist attractions; there. We find that neighborhood places a better bet than the main tourist drags. We also look for places with menus in the local language. If a restaurant has an English menu, it's likely to cater to tourists. WHEN YOU make your reservation, ask the restaurant or your concierge what the tipping protocol is. Sometimes it's obvious -- the bill might say, "15 per cent gratuity included." But particularly in southern Europe, a tip is discretionary; it is good form to leave a small bill or a few Euros on the table. It's also our custom to learn a few sentences in the local language. We have 25-plus Berlitz pocket size language guides. One is always tucked into the backpack. To say Shrimp, ahi, sushi, ginger, wasabi, wine. This is an easy meal to serve at home. "hello" or "good evening," "thank you," "please," "the check please," "where's the bathroom, please" and "may I have" or "I'd like to have," opens doors and makes instant smiles. We find this custom also gives us some idea of what we'll be getting. Once you master a few words, your waiter will be happy to help you -- in English, if you prefer. For even in small, village venues, more and more Europeans speak our language. Bon Appetit! A real tree is used to dance around the May pole in this Danish celebration. UP NEXT: We celebrate May Day as it was -- and still is -- celebrated in many parts of northern Europe. It's a day to celebrate spring, dance around the May pole and give little baskets of flowers, candies and special goodies to friends and loved ones. We need this now more than ever, so how about a May basket revival? Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh spin on travel, family, nature, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers with their elderly Yorkshire terrier, Nick, ready for a spin on their bikes. Leaving Scripps on a record third day post transplant. Three years ago this week. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THREE YEARS ago today, Bruce William Keller left Scripps Green Hospital with a new liver and a new lease on life. He was in and out on a record third day. Barely five weeks later, we traveled to our niece's wedding on the Oregon coast. We'd been on the transplant list for months, slowly climbing up the list, preparing for the phone call that might change our lives. We'd traveled close to home (no more than two hours away, should the call come) and we'd had our weekly "date night" the evening we received the call that a potential donor had been found. Transplant tale, part one That's all chronicled in previous posts in this column and various magazines. (Click on links above and throughout this story.) While we began the process of getting on the transplant list nearly six years ago, we give special thanks this week. We know that many patients wait more than five years, that some don't make the cut and that there are deaths while waiting when a proper match is not found. This photo shows the many medications we needed in weeks following transplantation. We are down to two anti-rejection medications now, plus approved vitamins and minerals. My nephew's 52-year old sister-in-law died of liver disease last summer, while awaiting transplant in northern California. My sister's friend lost her husband in Montana in similar fashion before the holidays. MANY ON the transplant list are called numerous times because they are sent home after bloodwork and other tests reveal the donor liver wouldn't be a good fit. (Body size, blood type, general health, age, etc., are considered.) Several people in my support group have been called numerous times -- one more than six -- then sent home. Three potential transplantees are usually notified and tested, so we were extremely fortunate that on our first call, tests revealed Keller would be a good match. Cookie and Keller take a spin on a four-wheeler, on the coast of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, just before Covid curtailed their travels. We were also fortunate to have a brilliant hepatologist and gifted surgeon, both nationally known, who guided us. We've met dozens of skilled nurses, physician's assistants, radiologists and others who have helped us along the way. Transplant tale, part two Until COVID19, we had resumed our life of travel writing and photography. We crossed the Atlantic three months after the surgery, and have visited 14 countries since the transplant. Dr. Jonathan Fisher and Bruce Keller days after his successful transplant. WE'VE HAD birthday and anniversary celebrations, and each year on the transplant anniversary, we toast its success (champagne for Cookie; non-alcoholic beer for Keller, who is taking the cautious approach, grateful that his Hepatitis C is history.) Our travel is on hold now, as with thousands of others of our friends, family and readers. We miss taking off into the wild blue yonder, strolling the boulevards of Paris or Barcelona, or seeing plays in London and New York. Dr. Catherine Frenette meets regularly with Keller to assess his progress and suggest adjustments to meds or lifestyle. But we have high hopes of returning to Montana sometime this summer, and traveling again when we can be sure of a vaccine and safety on the road and in the skies. Transplant tale, part three But we are 10 minutes from a world class medical facility with smart, compassionate people on our team. We live in a beautiful part of the world and can wait out the virus surrounded by birds, flowers and beauty. We take none of this for granted. Keller and Cookie dressed up for a play in March, before Covid halted theater. AND WHILE Covid has put a damper on our life and killed our tradition of several plays a week, we are managing to have a reasonably productive and happy time with biking, Scrabble, reading, exercise, selective TV and spending time with Nick, our surviving Yorkshire terrier, who lost his twin sister Nora two months ago. We've cancelled our international trips for this summer and fall, we are following the news and watching the search for a vaccine with hope in our hearts. Transplant tale, part four I asked Keller to reflect on the past three years. "I'm grateful for so many reasons and to so many people. I have universal appreciation and feel like one very lucky guy," he said. I echo his sentiments as one very lucky gal. This vivid plant is called kangaroo paw, and grows in our neighborhood. It is one of over 500 flower photos Keller has taken since COVID19. We suggest a hobby to help patch each of us through the pandemic. UP NEXT: What to do during the isolation and boredom of COVID? Why not develop a hobby, or begin one that you've dreamed of pursuing. Bruce Keller has been a photographer since grade school, and has always loved to photograph flowers. He "amped up" his hobby since the virus and our determination to take a daily bike ride and nature venture together. The new ritual has yielded some lovely results which we'll share next week. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at nature, the arts, family, health and -- soon, we hope -- more of the travel we so love. www.whereiscookie.com

Ocotillo, or "little torch" in Spanish, is usually a desert plant.  This one, outside our home, brings forth bursts of bright red blooms each spring.  Hummingbirds pollinate them so it's a bonus to watch the birds flit about the flowers. They are lovely to look at but make a very sticky bouquet!  Our neighborhood offers many varieties of lily. They bloom from spring to mid-summer in California. Here, agapanthus, or African lily, is in bloom now. BIKING FLOWER HUNT: ADMIRING BLOOMS AS AN ELEGY FOR THE PASSAGE OF TIME, CYCLE OF LIFE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SINCE ISOLATING , and a canceled docket of plays and concerts, we've found relief to anxiety and depression in daily bike rides. This therapy provides a way to calm us, keep us active, and put a splash of color in our lives. Our neighborhood in southern California's sunny San Diego provides an inspiring variety for  Keller's artful eye. Keller and Cookie are biking their way to sanity with flower photography. Montana's blooms await FOR ME, FLOWERS  represent the intersection of poetry and science. Sure, it's worthy to learn pistons and stamens, but it's essential to appreciate beauty. For me, right now, that ability is life-saving. Our cat's paw are yellow, brown and scarlet. The plant is also known as reindeer paw, and is native to Australia.  Flowers, and the natural world they share with us creatures, are an elegy for the passage of time and the cycle of life. I recognize many of the traditional "flower bed" plants because they inhabit similar climates all over the world -- snap dragons, petunias, dahlias, roses, pansies, marigolds, lilies. When we don't recognize a bloom, we use our plant reference books and aps to identify the ones we don't know.  Recently, we discovered the intriguing kangaroo paw. Also known as reindeer paw, this Australian plant fascinates Keller. He loves watching the long stalks sway in the wind and admires the pretty six-point star around the bloom, supported by a showy, feathery blossom. Recognize this bloom? It's in our yard and often used by florists. The glorious purple jacaranda is abloom now. TO HAVE THIS unusual plant literally out our door has been one of the saving graces of virtual incarceration. Stopping to photograph and admire unique foliage in the landscape of our town home grounds gives us hope that our cultural life will bloom again, too. Keller and Cookie stop to smell the roses wherever they travel, here at the Butchart Gardens in British Columbia.  I love finding flowers that I recognize from my youthful gardening in Montana.  Watching my grandmother Olive plant her dahlias before they'd produced blooms, guessing which one to put where to showcase the eventual colors. Helping my mother arrange marigolds and moss roses along the walkway, cautioning my toddler brother Rick not to yank them out. This dahlia is one of a dozen shades in our neighborhood. Hawaii's flowers fascinate It's fun to find the same colors of columbine and yarrow that I tend in my Montana garden.  Or to find a familiar plant late in summer as it is ending its bloom -- then collect a handful of seeds.  I did this with a patch of zennias last year, and a bright corner of nasturtiums in a neighbor's alley. Flower frenzy in Borrego WHEREVER WE  wander in the world, we try to visit a garden.  In Victoria, the beautiful Butchart Gardens have captivated us each time we return to British Columbia.   Unusual flowers of southern California take the edge off the strains of isolation and routine disruption. Here, Jerusalem sage has an unusual long-stemmed bloom. Here's grevillea rosmarinifolia! We love the botanical gardens of the Canary Islands, Fiji and Hawaii. We've visited the famous garden of Kenrokuen, Kanazawa, Japan, 200 years in the making.  It boasts more subtle shades of green than I'd imagined could exist and azaleas of a dozen colors. We'e marveled at the tulips in Keukenhof, Lisse, Netherlands, and stunning tropical wonders at  Nong Nooch Tropical Garden in  Pattaya, Thailand.  It's worthy to know a piston or a stamen, but do appreciate lantana's beauty. I'VE LONG  loved roses -- who doesn't -- so I've visited rose gardens in Copenhagen, Buenos Aires, Sakura, Rome, Morocco, Marrakech and Montreal.  I've joined the millions who admire the Gardens of Versailles,  near Paris. They are a classic example of  the French "more is more" design, with 2,000 acres of tenderly tended beds, imaginative topiary and fragrant blooms. Louis IV commissioned famous landscaper Andre Le Notre in 1661. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, in London offers a splendid way to spend the day, with benches for contemplating the beauty, and peaceful nooks for a picnic or spot of tea. Butchart Gardens delight And in the U.S., the gardens of Portland, Oregon, Atlanta and New York proudly showcase plants that thrive in the region. I'll bet there's something blooming "back in your own back yard," as the song says. Take a walk, a bike ride, or a wander. And take photos. It'll buoy sagging spirits. Guaranteed! The stunning view from Hampton Inn, Channel Islands Harbor, in Oxnard. UP NEXT:  Oxnard is a jewel, sometimes overlooked on the lower end of our beautiful central California coast. With our shores slowly opening up for Memorial Day weekend and the summer, consider Oxnard, which is not densely populated and offers superb whale watching, a relaxing hotel with gorgeous marina views, lively restaurants with varied fare, a world class maritime museum and more. Come with us to Hampton Inn, Channel Islands Harbor, where we'll base while we explore the magical town of Oxnard. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at nature, the arts, travel, family and more:  whereiscookie.com

The view from Channel Islands Hampton Inn is one of a lovely marina, offering spectacular sunsets. The hotel is open for business, minus restaurants. There are several pleasant restaurants nearby. PEACEFUL TOWN HAS LOVELY WATERFRONT, DIVERSE DINING, WHALE WATCHING, MUSEUMS AND MORE, OPENING UP AGAIN! CHECK OUT OXNARD Delicious "small bites" include scallops, empanadas and a tasty marinade as Oxnard's beachside restaurants open again. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU DRIVE California's famous coast highway, you may have overlooked Oxnard, California. Waiter Arthur serves up appetizers at Moqueca. As our travel world slowly "opens up" and hotels and restaurants are returning to business, we've discovered that nearby Oxnard is a safe bet. If you, like the two of us, are sick and tired of incarceration, give Oxnard a look. Consider spending a few days, whether now or next time you're scurrying south to San Diego or north to Santa Barbara and beyond. For in Oxnard, we discovered some of the best whale watching we've experienced in our state. It's a town and yet a city, with amenities associated with much larger towns. We found a delightful Brazilian restaurant, a wonderful small art museum and a world class maritime museum. Oxnard's busy Channel Islands Harbor is the fifth largest small-craft harbor in California. Fishermen never stopped fishing during Covid. The lovely seaside hotel, Hampton Inn Channel Islands Harbor, of the highly rated Hilton brand, offers lovely sunsets, pleasant views of sea life and friendly service. THIS QUIET little seaside city west of Los Angeles, offers as its main draw the lovely Channel Islands Harbor, a combined shore-protection project and harbor. It sits in picturesque calm at the southern end of the Santa Barbara Channel and is the state's fifth largest small-craft harbor. We observed it is a well loved waterfront, with fishermen at work, retirees out walking, kids playing, families barbecuing and baskers sunbathing. Dining options are varied. Our favorite restaurant is Moqueca, serving delightful Brazilian fare. OXNARD ALSO offers great fish and chips dining, fun burger shops, Italian and Greek fare and more. A pleasing mix of contemporary architecture and elegant early 1900s homes line the boulevards, with artful clusters of interesting contemporary art, beautiful sandy shorelines, nicely kept yards and lawns and stunning views of the Channel Islands. We wondered why Oxnard is often overlooked, and is indeed one of the less visited areas of the popular California coast. Probably because it is a bit "out of the way." West of Los Angeles, it's ideally located on the coast but most people heading south hit the freeway once out of LA's 10 and 12-lane traffic madness. Perhaps the name is off-putting, for its somewhat harsh sound. Oxnard's founder, Henry T. Oxnard, tried to name the city after a Greek word for “sugar” (zachari). Unable to communicate his desire to state bureaucrats, he named the city after his family instead. The Carnegie Library in Oxnard, Calif., is temporarily closed, but worth a look, in the heart of Oxnard's "Old Town." HE WOULD likely enjoy the city's charming downtown with historic buildings including the Carnegie Art Museum. The elegant 1906 building withstood the threat of permanent closure and budget cuts for years, continuing to show contemporary California art in a stately former library. It's temporarily closed now, a casualty of Covid, but supporters hope it will rally. Nearby, other early 1900s buildings and homes dot Heritage Square and are worth a stroll for photos, in these virus-changing times. On the water, contemporary homes share lovely beach views. Oxnard Beach Park has a wide, sandy shoreline and inviting, grassy lawns, with picnic tables and views of Channel Islands. A Purse Seine boat anchored off the Oxnard harbor. Modern architecture is part of the mix in Oxnard, where new buildings are going up along the waterways. Channel Islands cruises and whale watching are available for visitors to enjoy a variety of options, from overnight camping to whale watching. Island Packers Cruises has several itineraries. One sunbather asked us not to write too enthusiastically about Oxnard. "We know we're a vibrant Southern California beach haven, with perfect sands and waters, but we don't really want any more people," she winked. It's true: the beaches are some of the prettiest in the region and the closeness to the Channel Islands makes for longer whale-watching periods. SHOPPERS COME to buy everything from clothing to art, antiques and furniture and there's a playhouse, a couple nightclubs and an array of restaurants. Many of the businesses, parks and beaches have reopened. Food delivery and take-out are widely available. Still, that lovely proximity to the water and the Channel Islands is the main draw. Plus the feel of a small town with amenities of city life. These enticements bring repeat customers back to this calming corner of California. Now more than ever. https://islandpackers.com/home2/ channelislandsharbor.org; oxnardchamber.org/ hilton.com/en/hotels/oxrcihx-hampton-channel-islands-harbor/ Enjoying playful whales and dolphins in a light misty rain, Keller and Cookie continue their road-tripping with caution. UP NEXT: We've got a whale tale, and some nifty whale tail photos to share with you, lads and lassies. We're off to Anacapa in search of beautiful gray whales, heading north now after giving birth in the warm Baja waters. With terrific guides and naturalists from Island Packers and Channel Island Sportfishing, and both businesses back up and running after Covid slowed things down, we're accompanied by playful dolphins and seals while enjoying a pair of Oxnard's finest whale watching enterprises. These unique enterprises are restarting fishing, whale watching and island service as early as June 1, taking reservations now. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on nature, the arts, travel, family and adventure: www.whereiscookie.com

Tallinn's Old Town is one of the best preserved of any city in the world. Tourism opens up there this week. A stunning 19th Century Church, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, stands as a proud beacon to the Russian Orthodox religion in Tallin, Estonia, with travel returning. GET OUT THE BROCHURES, START PLANNING A TRIP AS THE COVID FOG BEGINS TO LIFT Editor's Note: On June 1, travel restrictions resulting from Covid19 were eased and travel opened up with caution and new rules in many countries, including the Baltic Republics. We bring our story and photos, taken on our most recent international trip before the world of travel changed. We highly recommend Estonia. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STROLLING FROM the ship in Tallinn, Estonia's modern harbor is a trip back in time, from contemporary 21st Century architecture, to centuries old churches, squares and monuments. Arriving by ship, one walks past a modern harbor into the Old Town. One enjoys the 20-minute walk to the picturesque Old Town, past modern sculpture and hundreds of welcoming marigolds. Slowly, the pavement shifts to cobblestone and the time travel begins. One is greeted by lively cafes, bustling shops and kiosks with eye-catching folk art. Embroidery, lace-making, woodwork and knitwear are proudly displayed, all practiced for generations by the people. The blue cornflower, "rukkilill," is the national flower and you'll see it in beautiful scarves, tablecloths and wall hangings. The Old Town of Tallinn is one of the world's best preserved medieval cities, clean and bright. IF YOU FANCY a bite or a drink, you'll find tasty beer and vodka, rye bread, potato rolls and ham sandwiches. Estonia is firmly part of Europe's "pork belt" and is also famous for its candy, with many flavors including liquor laced delicacies. We'd arrived in Estonia’s capital on a 16-day cruise to ports on the beautiful Baltic Sea. Tallinn is a blend of old and new, with many influences from its time as part of the Russian Empire. We were excited to visit Estonia because it has so recently emerged from Soviet control, and we had long anticipated photographing this Unesco World Heritage site. THE HISTORIC old town of Tallinn is known for its wonderfully preserved medieval architecture and its part in the "Struve Geodetic Arc," which Estonia shares with nine other countries: Belarus, Finland, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway, Moldova, Russia, Sweden and Ukraine. Its charming walled Old Town is also home to a 15th-century defensive tower, a Gothic Town Hall and impressive places of worship which withstood Communist control. Bruce Keller poses near an Estonian knight's armor. St. Nicholas Church is a 13th-century landmark exhibiting ecclesiastical art. The newer Alexander Nevsky Cathedral with its obvious Russian influence reminds of the time Estonia was part of the Russian Empire then controlled by the Communist Party which had quite a run, from 1940 to 1990. While blockish apartments and offices are a result of that 50-year period, the grand 1894 Nevsky Cathedral reflects the ornate Russian Revival style one sees in Moscow and St. Petersburg. A grand bronze of Estonia's most famous musician, Gustav Ernesaks, attracted Cookie, also a musician. Ernesaks is revered by his countrymen. This stately cathedral is Tallinn's largest orthodox cupola cathedral, dedicated to Saint Alexander Nevsky who in 1242 won the Battle of the Ice on Lake Peipus, in the territorial waters of present-day Estonia. ONLY 43 MILES south of Helsinki, Estonia has long been a destination for Finns in search of a bargain, but our guide said she and other Estonians now find many goods cheaper to acquire in Helsinki than in Tallinn. While convents, museums, theaters, parks and a bustling market are part of Tallinn's charms, this musician's favorite spot is the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds, on which a giant choral festival is staged every five years. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Tallin. A huge bronze monument to Estonia's beloved composer and choral director Gustav Ernesaks is a highlight of the huge park. Ernesaks lived from 1908 to 1993 and played an integral role in the country's famous non-violent "Singing Revolution" which led to Estonian independence in 1991. He also helped engineer the Estonian Song Festival and helped establish the country's world renowned vocal tradition. The Festival Grounds is a beautifully located outdoor venue, resting on a gentle hill near the sea offering lovely breezes and gorgeous views. The enterprise has hosted a mix of global stars, ranging from Tina Turner and the Rolling Stones, to Elton John, Snoop Dogg and Metallica. The Michael Jackson concert there in 1997 broke records with 200,000 star-struck spectators. Beautiful sounds come from this Tallinn busker, playing his kannel for euros. Choral singers the world over praise the acoustics of the space which resounds with the sounds of Ernesaks' Song Festival which attracts thousands of singers. ESTONIANS LOVE music, and host dozens of world class festivals for the organ, female vocal groups opera, ballet, theater and even Oriental dance. We were thrilled to find a young student playing Estonia's oldest string instrument, the kannel. It's plucked and played with a bow, and has the sound of a zither. visitestonia.com/en/ Check individual cruise lines and get on their mailing lists if you want to cruise the Baltic. Many cruises are resuming in July-August. Risk is still a consideration with no vaccine yet. Many changes are in store. St. Petersburg is up next, a must for arts loving travelers. UP NEXT: With travel opening up in Europe and the Baltic Republics, we're happy to note that Russia is cautiously resuming tourism, too. So St. Petersburg beckons. Come with us to explore this magnificent city, founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, subject of the city's iconic “Bronze Horseman” statue and much more. St. Petersburg is Russia's cultural center, with venues including the Mariinsky Theatre and ballet, and the world famous Hermitage, the State Russian Museum. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com

St. Petersburg's architecture reflects its glory days as a city in Imperial Russia. The Hermitage Museum is home to one of the world's great art collections and the building itself is worthy of a leisurely stroll to inspect its many graceful nuances. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers explore St. Petersburg, in a trip taken just before Covid curtailed travel. Editor's Note: Most foreign tourists visit St. Petersburg by ship, and while cruising is temporarily on hold, officials tell us it's returning soon. The cruise industry is spending billions outfitting ships with state-of-the-art protective air filtering systems in each stateroom plus many more "Covid-proofing" features. Bookings are being taken for winter of 2020 and into 2021 and 2022. So grab the brochures, get on the internet for your favorite cruise line and plan a trip. Here's our report from our recent visit just before the world -- and travel -- changed. Churches, palaces and museums greet the eye at nearly every corner of St. Petersburg. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STROLLING PAST the famous if intimidating Hermitage, that row of impressive museums, the tourist is dazzled. How does one tackle the entire complex, if only in a couple of days, the average stay. We've returned four times to do it justice. The myriad state rooms of the Winter Palace are known worldwide as the Hermitage. Regarded as an international museum, it boasts one of the world's most varied and impressive art collections. Lovely canals and baroque residences mark St. Petersburg, concepts borrowed from the French and other Europeans during Peter the Great's visits. The mark of Peter the Great is everywhere in St. Petersburg. The traveling monarch created a grand port city, inspired by the architecture he enjoyed in his travels through Europe. He created Russia's "Window to the West" beginning in 1703 when he erected the first fortress on the River Neva. Neo-classical facades, domed cathedrals and baroque residences were built along the city's canals. Peter favored the long, straight boulevards he'd walked in Paris. He loved its vast spaces and gardens and created his dazzling Winter Palace from 1754 to 1762, bringing the concept of "stately grandeur" from France to over 600 rooms. THE CITY is a great one for sight seeing. Its lovely canals were also the inspiration of Peter, who hired Dutch engineers to drain the marshland and cut the neat design that we know today. Tourism is coming back to St. Petersburg, and this guide is ready. Here, she ushers a group into a palace. We spent time outside the museum, enjoying art-filled galleries, admiring Peter's brilliant architecture as we explored. Our stroll along the Nevsky Prospekt included a stop for coffee at a charming cafe, and a subway trip. The city's colorful, art-filled metro, or off-street railway, came into its present design in 1955. But the idea dates to 1820 when the Russian Empire commissioned engineer Torganov to design a tunnel under the Neva. We visited the crowded Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, whose grisly name belies its graceful lines and intricate facade and interior. Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood offers an ornate interior. It was built to honor tsar Alexander II of Russia, who was assassinated at the site, thus its moniker. This trip, our ship stayed two nights, so we had nearly three days, time for a day trip to the summer palace of Peter, named after himself: Peterhof Palace and Garden. Once again, he showed his love of Paris, modeling the place after after France's Versailles. The canals of St. Petersburg are fun to explore. One can take a tour or rent a small boat. We stopped for a picnic in the park there, designed to give families a place to escape their crowded homes. Our guide told us that even today it is not uncommon for as many as 10 to 13 people to share a single bathroom so the parks provide a haven and space for relaxing. THE HERMITAGE demands at least two days of a traveler's time -- as we found on our last too-short visit. For like the Louvre and Prado, it spans many centuries and periods. A strangely proportioned Peter the Great. Highlights range from a unique collection of seventh-century BC Scythian gold to some of Picasso’s great Blue Period paintings. We were impressed by the number of Rembrandts, and many paintings by Titian, Giorgione and Leonardo. Don't miss Michelangelo’s unfinished sculpture of a crouching boy, and what many consider the best collection of English art in Europe – including Gainsborough’s "Woman in Blue." The museum is also rich in my favorite Impressionist period, along with post-Impressionist and modernist paintings, including works by Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Matisse. Time for a Matryoska doll or two before catching the ship. This Russian soldier offers a faint smile. There are Faberge Easter eggs, too, and if you want a larger Faberge hit, a separate museum showcases art crafted by Carl Fabergé. If you're lucky enough to sail out at night, enjoy the beautiful lights of the city. MUSEUMS ARE not St. Petersburg's only enticement. You'll want to stop by the busy Square of the Arts, or "Ploshchad Isskustv," and Peter and Paul Fortress, where you'll find an interesting sculpture of Peter the Great. Its small head, massive torso and oversized legs invite critiquing. Still, it's a striking work of the founder of the fortress and the city, a man who loved his country and convinced the people to reform. Sculptor Mikhail Shemyakin defends his art, saying it is based on the death-mask and wax figure of Peter kept in the Hermitage. It resides in front of the main guardhouse of the fortress, a reminder of Russia's pre-Communist days. Matryoshka dolls, from Cookie's first visit, 1979. WE FELT safe in this city of romantic ambiance, bridges and imperial spirit. Its love of theater, ballet and opera is attractive. We also noticed less loitering and more smiles than on earlier visits -- probably because the people seemed more welcoming. Still, we were warned about crime and pickpocketing. Alcoholism continues to be a problem. And the country's young people -- not unlike those in Europe or the U.S.-- don't want to pursue the hard-working options their forebears tackled. This week, on June 16, dentists, museums, sporting events and accounting, legal, consulting, and advertising firms opened; restaurants began to offer outdoor seating to guests. On June 23, restaurants, cafes, gyms, libraries, saunas, swimming pools, day care, playgrounds, social welfare offices, and sports facilities will reopen in Russia. Masks and distancing are being practiced. If you stick strictly with ship's tours, you don't need a visa. For more, including independent travel visa requirements: https://europe.russia.travel/ Yusupov Palace in St. Petersburg boasts grand rooms and antique furnishings, and is the place where mystic Rasputin spent his last evening. UP NEXT: Remember the tales of Rasputin? Yes, he was a real guy and elegant Yusupov Palace in St. Petersburg is where he was murdered. The Russian mystic and self-proclaimed holy man befriended the family of Emperor Nicholas II, Russia's last monarch. He was invited to dinner and poisoned in the bright, yellow three-story 18th century building on the Moika River, downtown St. Petersburg. Construction on the Neo-classical palace began in the 1770s; we'll take you there 250 years later. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

After a closure of nearly three months, Yusupov Palace is again open. Its opulent rooms and appointments reflect the grandeur of royalty in pre-revolutionary Russia. The mystic Rasputin was killed here in 1916. Yusupov Palace, or Moika Palace, is a grand 18th Century royal house. Editor's Note: As Baltic countries reopen, St. Petersburg, Russia, is slowly opening up, too. Cruise lines are once again booking for stops in this beautiful coastal city, as early as spring of 2021. Get on an e-mail list with your favorite cruise line and check the web for good rates as cruise lines recover from the financial devastation of Covid. We sneaked in our latest Russia visit just before the travel industry went south. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Grigori Rasputin had peasant origins but rose to power as he charmed royalty. ONE OF history's most talked about characters might well be that Siberian mystic, who charmed his way into the Russian court, but was killed by enemies who believed he'd gained too much power. Yes, Grigori Rasputin was a real guy, and elegant Yusupov Palace in St. Petersburg is where he was murdered. The Russian mystic and self-proclaimed holy man befriended the family of Emperor Nicholas II, the last monarch of Russia and was invited to dinner by Felix Yusupov, who did not approve of his influence on Nicholas and Alexandra. So in the winter of 1916, the influential and wealthy playboy Yusupov plotted to poison him in the bright, yellow three-story 18th century building on the Moika River embankment in downtown St. Petersburg. When he failed to die expediently, he was shot multiple times. Still he didn't succumb so his writhing, bullet riddled body was bound and thrown in the river. It was discovered several days later. Autopsy revealed death by drowning! The story of Rasputin's murder is told with documents, photos and a tableau. WE JOINED an international group of tourists fascinated by the gory story. It's colorfully told by guides -- the Russians are great story tellers, after all -- and illustrated with a tableau of the dining table and its doomed guest. The building is remarkable not only because of its intriguing -- if shady -- history but because it survived the Revolution and Soviet years relatively intact. Its owner, Felix Yusupov, had several other palaces, but this was supposedly his favorite. Its well known facade only hints at its lavish interior, a unique architectural complex with a dizzying number of halls and living quarters. They illustrate the pampered life of the nobility before the Bolshevik Revolution -- and explain why their excesses were resented by the struggling masses. The gilded halls and stairways lead to ornate bed chambers and banquet rooms in the Yusupov Palace. THE LAVISH digs also reflect the city's life as the capital of the Russian Empire, from 1703 to 1918, when Moscow became the capital. Construction began in 1770 and renovation continues today. It was originally used by Andrei Shuvalov, a privy councilor to the court of Catherine the Great. Christene "Cookie" Meyers approaches Yusupov's second floor reception hall. Personalities to dine in the palace include Queen Elizabeth II, actress Liza Minelli, singer Sting, model Naomi Campbell and Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones. Rasputin's "last supper" is depicted in a lifesize diorama. While the guest list is impressive, its fame today is primarily because of the murder there. Rasputin, Russia’s infamous “Mad Monk,” is the fodder for a great historical tale that blends fact and legend. Our guide said the death of the controversial holy man and faith healer had a combustible effect on the tense state of affairs in pre-revolution Russia when he was killed on Dec. 30, 1916 in the basement of the Palace, the St. Petersburg residence of Prince Yusupov, husband of the Czar’s only niece, Irina. IN THE DECADE prior, Rasputin had risen rapidly through Russian society, starting as an obscure Siberian peasant-turned--holy-man and becoming a prominent figure in the Czar’s inner circle. Born in 1869 in the village of Pokrovskoye, on the Tura river of the Ural Mountains, he seemed destined for an ordinary life -- marriage, three children, work on a family farm. Frescoes, statues, gold and silver adorn the palace's many halls, corners and rooms. That changed when in his 30s, he spent time at a monastery, continuing to see his family, odd for a potential monk. According to our guide, Rasputin's religious fervor, combined with an appealing personal charisma, brought him to the attention of some Russian Orthodox clergymen and then senior members of the Imperial family, who introduced him to Nicholas II and his wife, Alexandra. Nicholas wrote to one of his ministers in October 1906, “A few days ago I received a peasant from the Tobolsk district, Grigori Rasputin, who brought me an icon of St. Simon Verkhoturie. He made a remarkably strong impression both on Her Majesty and on myself..." Rasputin would have walked these stairs to meet his host and begin his final meal. The Imperial couple consulted unconventional spiritual advisors but Rasputin filled this role by his ability to read their inner hopes and tell them what they wanted to hear. He encouraged Nicholas to have more confidence in his role as czar. Alexandra found that his counsel soothed her anxieties. By the First World War, Rasputin was also providing political advice and making recommendations for ministerial appointments, much to the dismay of the Russian elite. Rasputin cemented his relationship with the czar and czarina when he supposedly helped alleviate their only son Alexei’s hemophilia. Rasputin’s alleged healing powers continue to be debated today, but legend says he employed peasant folk medicine to treat internal bleeding in horses, and passed this knowledge on to help Alexei. A visit to San Diego Zoo is possible again, after the longest closure in the zoo's proud history. Here, Cookie in red, visits with her sister Olivia, left, niece Amarylla, and her children Peny and James. It opened this week. UP NEXT: As travel cautiously resumes, and some areas "re-close," there's news in southern California. Some of its internationally known theme parks zoos and other attractions are opening as well. But not Disneyland or SeaWorld. Why? We'll explain. Meanwhile, precautions at newly reopened San Diego Zoo and Safari Park are carefully in place with social distancing, smaller crowds allowed and serious hygiene protocol. Families yearning for freedom to travel and enjoy again, have promising news. Still, there is much to be accomplished as we slowly regain our former lives and desperately await a vaccine. So explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Skagen's distinctive yellow houses always sport orange tiled roofs, an artistic tradition. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Fishing is an important part of Skagen's economy. WE'D VISITED  Denmark several times, but never its picturesque port town, Skagen, sitting peacefully at the north end of Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. Its population of 8,000 people increases by 2,000 during the summer months.  We visited in September, a year ago, when travel was safe and unencumbered.  Slowly, Denmark is reopening to tourism and this northernmost township on the east coast of the peninsula, welcomes travelers. Because of its prime seaside location, the town of Skagen is the main fishing port for all of Denmark. Another reason for Skagen's popularity, we discovered, is its beautiful turquoise blue waters and the vast expanse of the sea. Skagen's yellow houses and orange tiled roofs. We were among a couple hundred tourists who came to enjoy the town's scenic views, old-fashioned streets and charming waterfront.  The unique Skagen architecture is a draw, too -- yellow houses with orange tiled roofs. The picturesque little town of Skagen owes its popularity to an artists' colony which settled there in the 1880s. Known as the "Nordic Light Painters," their work was prized for the shimmering light.  A Nordic Light exhibition celebrates the movement each August and several museums exhibit works by these eccentric and talented Skagen painters, who were inspired by Skagen's light and landscape. TODAY, SKAGEN  is both a fishing port and a tourist destination. An oil by Michael Peter Ancher of Skagen. The characteristic yellow and orange roofed houses are still occupied by fishermen and painters. A few are b&bs, and the town also offers several pleasant hotels. The people of Skagen are proud of both legacies -- their expert fishing fame and stable of famous artists.  The Local History Archive in Skagen's former courthouse, exhibits town history, artistic tradition and maritime heritage.  Skagen's shifting dunes provided a pleasant hike for us.  A main attraction is Grenen Beach, on Skagen’s northeastern outskirts.  It boasts the convergence of the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas. The trick -- we couldn't resist the temptation -- is to stand with one foot in the Skagerrak and the other in the Kattegat. One body in two seas! The shifting dunes are another attraction.  These migrating wonders are pushed by the wind and sea, moving and changing each year.  The shifting sands have covered entire buildings, including a church known, literally, as Den Tilsandede Kirke. Now only the steeple is visible on this buried 17th Century house of worship. SKAGEN IS   also home to some of the world's great eagles, who fly free in the Eagle Sanctuary. We listened to folk music, too, with Skagen's street buskers doing a brisk business.   If your idea of a holiday means watching the sun setting over the water, enjoying a panoramic view of the sea, strolling a welcoming village, visiting  its beaches and waterfront, and eating freshly caught seafood, Skagen's your place for laid back R&R. And don't worry if you aren't sure how to pronounce Skagen. Three acceptable pronunciations are listed in a local guidebook: Skah-guhn,” “Skay-gen,” or “Skay-en" as in "just sayin'." Sculptor Gustav Vigeland gave his many statues to Oslo.  UP NEXT: We end our salute to Scandinavian capitals with a visit to the Viking land of Oslo, Norway, and a trip to a farm near the city. Founded in 1050, Oslo sits on the left bank of the Akere River and is an intriguing blend of modern and historic. The Viking influence is felt everywhere, and the country's noteworthy artistic heritage is celebrated in Vigeland Sculpture Park, which hosts Gustav Vigeland's impressive sculptures. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at nature, travel, family and the arts: whereiscookie.com