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Valenca, in the far north of Portugal, offers a relaxing, artistic place to visit for a few days. Sturdy, stunning buildings date back to the 13th Century, upgraded in the 17th Century. HISTORY, COLOR, MONUMENTS, SHOPS, CHURCHES, GRACIOUS PEOPLE AND TASTY FARE MARK VISIT TO PORTUGAL'S   NORTH Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers above Valenca.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER VALENCA IS about as far north in Portugal that a traveler can go. Like many European towns, it was inhabited more than 300,000 years ago by the homo heidelbergensis, the first early humans to survive in colder climate. Its more recent history is still impressive, dating back centuries. Monuments on many corners tell of Valenca's history. Among the many who occupied Portugal, the Romans stand out because they occupied the land for more than 700 years, from the 3rd century BC to the 4th century AD.  As they did wherever they explored, these enterprising travelers built cities, established civil government, fished and farmed the land, and connected settlements with a network of roads. In Portugal, they built above the Minho River which they crossed while traveling from Brago to Tui on the Spanish side, as early as the second century BC.  Colorful fabrics are sold in Valenca's main streets and back roads -- aprons to tea towels and throws . AS ONE  of the oldest countries in Europe, Portugal boasts a colorful history. Besides the Roman Empire, it was home to Iberian tribes, Celtic peoples, Germanic kingdoms, Muslim invaders and the consequent Christian Reconquista, and finally,  the Exploration of the World. Portugal's Jewish community has a proud cultural and religious legacy dating back to antiquity. WE FOUND   colorful Valenca a metaphor for Portugal itself. Beautiful streets and monuments, clean and welcoming parks and gardens, polite and gracious people, tasty simple fare and good local beer and wine. .   Valenca is a little known stop to foreigners but has a proud history. The town is often confused with Valencia, Spain, by Americans and others outside Europe. That much larger Spanish city, however, is nine hours or 950 kilometers to the southeast. WE EXPLORED  Valenca from our ship, docked at the nearby port of Vigo in Spain. We bought a tour package, but if one wants to go explore on one's own, it's only a $14 bus trip. Or take a train for a few dollars more. Remnants of Valenca's strong defense remain, as Keller illustrates with a canon. The streets of Valenca hold small squares, churches and mansions which held off invaders, even to the 19th Century. The short scenic drive makes it one of the few places in Europe where cruise passengers can easily visit two countries in a half-hour's time. THE MINHO River flows 210 miles through the northwestern extent of Spain, and marks Spain's border with Portugal for part of that distance. This border has been contentious for thousands of years, and today it's difficult to walk in this area without bumping into a star fort, a place where the enemy can be fired upon the entire length of the fortress wall, to the far bastion. This makes it difficult for attackers to find shelter outside the fort walls and from above, looks like points of a star. A Frida Kahlo pillow for a sister in Montana was a happy purchase from these Valenca artists.   ONCE THE ROMANS left the area, the mix of cultures that became modern Europe galloped in: Arabs to Vikings were part of the mix -- people escaping persecution or poverty, or just looking for new horizons. Portuguese King Sancho I (1154-1211) earned the sobriquet "The Populator" by bringing Christians to northern Portugal in the 12th century. This squeezed out the aggressive Moors, who had conquered virtually all of the Iberian Peninsula by the 8th century. THE MOORS  left beautiful architecture -- including exquisite tiles and mosaics -- and shaped the region's religion, cuisine, music and language. All this can be felt in Valenca -- though not to the degree of more southerly towns.   We found Valenca a lovely place with some of the most pleasant people we've met on the road. Get ready for your close up soon when we venture to Paramount Studios in Los Angeles, through its famous gates and onto the lots. UP NEXT:  We're   taking readers on a star-studded tour of Paramount Studios so get ready for your close-up. The studio has produced some of the most famous films -- from "Forest Gump" to "Top Gun" and many time honored classics. Then on to Santa Barbara's beautiful Maritime Museum. And more food, glorious food as we take a bite of Mexican cuisine -- best seafood around -- with "AvoCabo Food Tours." Meanwhile, we urge readers to follow their dreams -- remembering to explore, learn and live. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

The famous gate to Paramount Pictures has been used in many films, including "Sunset Boulevard" which tells the story of a fading star and her struggle to endure in the pictures.   ENJOY A CENTURY OF MOVIE LORE AT HOLLYWOOD'S MOST FAMOUS STUDIO Ready for their close-up, "Keller and Cookie" share an Oscar moment. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAD  so much fun playing tourist at Paramount Pictures.   We sat on Forest Gump's famous bench, admired a larger than life and ever endearing Shrek, watched an intriguing film clip on the studio's history and drove past sets of a dozen huge box office hits. The studio is Hollywood's most famous, home to eccentric directors such as Alfred Hitchcock, who had a lavish apartment on the lot and blocked the window with a bookcase so he couldn't be spied upon.  Paramount also was home to scores of stars from film's golden age and remains home for many of today's stars. Bruce Keller rests on Forest Gump's bench. "Where's my box of chocolates?" he wondered. The tour stops at several iconic movie sets and a large house of props. George Burns and Gracie Allen called Paramount home and dozens of other greats did, too. Lucy sold Desilu to Paramount for $17 million and is known on the lot for developing a school for young actors there, including her own children. WE KNEW the references to Gary Cooper, Claudette Colbert, Groucho Marx, Marlene Dietrich and Frederic March, while the younger members of our 10-person tour looked puzzled at the mention of those cinematic heroes. They knew Tom Hanks and Tom Cruise of course, and famous Paramount box office smashes: "The Godfather" (both the original and part two), "Titanic," the "Shrek" and "Transformers" films, "Grease," "The Wolf of Wall Street," and the controversial "Romeo and Juliet," whose now aging stars have recently launched law suits claiming they didn't consent to the nearly-nude scenes. Takers of the Paramount tour can see what's on the lot each day. PARAMOUNT  is known for riding the talkie boom to unprecedented heights, reaping industry-record profits of $18.4 million in 1930 (and out-earning all of the other majors), only to suffer financial collapse a year later under the weight of oversized budgets, the costly conversion to sound, and the massive debt service associated with its huge theater chain. After net losses of $21 million in 1932—another industry record—Paramount declared bankruptcy in early 1933. The financial turmoil led to a massive executive shake-up but Paramount survived and made a come back in the WWII years. A New York City set gets a lot of use, with its familiar yellow taxis.  Here, tour takers are allowed to pose. The "Transformer" films were a huge hit for Paramount. Here, Cookie stops at one of the transformers. The $25 billion success story includes 15 films, video games, sound tracks and more. WHAT IMPRESSES the tourist first is the enormity of Paramount.  The original studio was 26 acres and four stages.  Paramount has grown to 65 acres over the years with 30 sound stages range from 5,500 to 18,775 square feet and capable of handling large projects. "Beam us up, Scotty," say Cookie  and Keller in the "Star Trek" set. Nickelodeon and Miramax have ties to Paramount,, and you'll see posters of celebrated films, popular TV shows and commercials. Today, Paramount partners with projects large and small in a ceaseless effort to create celebrated movies, television shows, and commercials. The studio lot is hallowed ground for "Star Trek" fans, and posters abound of Leonard Nimoy and William Shatner. "Dr. Phil" is recorded on Paramount's Stage 29 and is the longest running regularly scheduled TV show in Hollywood.  Paramount's net worth as of January of this year is $1.27 billion, so the studio is looking good financially. Tours are $63 for two hours, and $199 for a special VIP "Insider" look with a gourmet meal on location. Paramountstudiotour.com 323 956-1777. Santa Barbara's Maritime Museum earns its stellar reputation with a wealth of attractive, informative exhibits.  NEXT UP:  T he Santa Barbara Maritime Museum is a treasure trove of maritime history with colorful, beautifully curated exhibits, rare artifacts and a lively calendar of events welcoming sea loving guests and members.  Take a look at the museum which weaves a thoughtful collection of displays to illustrate man's connection to the sea.   Set your sails with us for a memorable visit, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, family, the arts and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

A fine collection of seafaring artifacts combines with beautifully curated changing exhibits to show off Santa Barbara's proud maritime tradition and encourage preservation of the oceans. All ages welcome. School children enjoy the interactive aspect of the education oriented museum. UNIQUE MARITIME HERITAGE ON VIEW IN FAMILY ORIENTED MUSEUM WHICH EXPLORES WONDERS OF OUR FINE SEAS  Story by Christene Meyers Photos by Bruce Keller IF THE MENTION  of a maritime museum conjures thoughts of yellowing, ragged sails, salty old sea captains and outdated maps of long ago sailing days, think again. And head for the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. It's a jewel of a museum with a lively, contemporary spin on nautical life and an environmentalist's take on that precious, endangered commodity -- vital to our life -- the sea. Its beauty and importance are colorfully celebrated in this wondrous place, where all ages are educated about the sea's history and its critical contributions to our daily life. Christene "Cookie" Meyers pauses at the reception  desk during a visit exploring the sea's wonders. CALIFORNIA HAS  one of the country's longest and most colorful maritime collections and the staff at this lively museum knows this fact as it proudly shares the museum with tourists from all over the world. Says Rita Serotkin, director of marketing and public relations at the museum, "We provide a forum for  education and enlightenment" -- both of which we found to be true as she guided us through two stories of fascinating sea lore and lessons. We found the museum a joy to visit because it really has personality. It is warm, welcoming and friendly.  While many museums are a bit cold, austere and "stand-offish," the Santa Barbara  facility has an inviting aura.  Photographer Bruce Keller becomes the subject briefly on Santa Barbara's picturesque oceanfront by the museum. On our visit, we observed a lively mix of children, families, touring couples, sportsmen, "a fun mix of seafaring adventurers," as my sailor partner and photographer Bruce Keller observed. THE RANGE of programs includes presentations by native people whose connection to the sea goes back centuries.  Chumash Elder Puchuk Ya’ia’c (Alan Salazar) visited the museum in November to discuss “Chumash Maritime History—Past, Present, & Future” and encored recently with fellow writer and historian, Mona Lewis, to read from their new book, "Coyote Rescues Hawk." As with man of the museum's events, the presentation encouraged audience participation.  This time, participants created their own traditional seaweed rattles for a reasonable $25, including all materials for the artful project. Another presentation sets the record straight on who was first to complete a trans-Pacific voyage. (Hint:  it was not Magellan! It was a little known Afro-Portuguese pilot, Lope Martín.) As Serotkin explains, the museum's mission covers a wide range of ambitious goals -- involving children, entertaining adults and curious visitors, keeping its volunteer corps engaged and active, raising awareness, applying for grants, courting authors, getting the word out on upcoming programs and exhibits and beating the drum for important funding. Right outside the door of the museum, boats of every kind await. Audience participation and this time, participants created their own traditional seaweed rattles for a reasonable $25, including all materials for the artful project. Another presentation sets the record straight on who was first to complete a trans-Pacific voyage. (Hint:  it was not Magellan! It was a little known Afro-Portuguese pilot, Lope Martín.) As Serotkin explains, the museum's mission covers a wide range of ambitious goals -- involving children, entertaining adults and curious visitors, keeping its volunteer corps engaged and active, raising awareness, applying for grants, courting authors, getting the word out on upcoming programs and exhibits and beating the drum for important funding. WE URGE  visitors to make a pilgrimage to both floors where we learned about early Santa Barbara explorers -- Juan Cabrillo, who also explored our San Diego area. A Fresnel lighthouse lens offers beautiful shapes and colors. . The Chumash people are celebrated, along with whaling, the town's waterfront, and the birthplace of deep sea commercial diving. We also enjoyed elegantly crafted ship models by Dwight Brooks and learned about famous local shipwrecks. Oil spills, commercial fishing and Channel Islands ranching are also highlighted. THE MUSEUM has garnered awards for its fun, interactive maritime exhibits for kids as well as adults.  T he interactive visits include hands on and multi-media exhibits with an array of fine displays including photos. Families are encouraged to visit.  During our afternoon sojourn, we observed happy three generation groups, students and couples. We also wandered the wharf, had a delightful lunch at one of the great seafood restaurants, rented a boat for an afternoon jaunt and bought reasonably priced souvenirs at two of the shops. We recommend making a day outing to explore this important and artful museum -- nestled in the fascinating and historic Santa Barbara Harbor. MORE INFORMATION: www.sbmm.org 805 962-8404   A fado singer in Porto appears to be in a trance as she performs, surrounded by the two classic guitar accompanists.  On the left is the Portuguese guitar playing the melody and intricate counterpoints. On the right is the bass and rhythm guitarist providing those elements.   UP NEXT: Porto's fabulous Casa de Guitarra is a fascinating Museum of the Guitar, focusing on the instrument which is integral to Portuguese music. Fado singers must have the two guitars -- the traditional Portuguese guitar, left, and the rhythm and bass guitar, right.  Many clubs and bistros feature a fado singer or two on the program and we highly recommend guests take in a fado show while in Portugal.  Both Lisbon and Porto offer many options.  We'll explore several of the clubs and talk about the art form next week.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on music, theater, nature, family, travel and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Sydney, Australia: sparkling in early evening, from a climb atop the famous Sydney Harbor Bridge. It's fun to look for your cruise ship in the water far below.  We've sailed here twice aboard Celebrity. School children, neatly dressed, head for an outing in downtown Sydney, with busy teachers to control and safely direct them. SYDNEY'S SPLENDORS: SKYLINE, HOTELS, CULTURE, BRIDGE, HARBOR, FOOD, PARKS If you're cruising, book one that begins or ends     in Sydney and plan a few days to explore   The bridge is an architectural masterpiece, offering splendid views of the city and harbor. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SYDNEY HAS IT ALL!  This lively Australian city offers one of the world's most picturesque harbors, a thriving performing arts center in its Sydney Opera House, a bustling economy, restaurants for every taste and budget, accommodating and cheerful people, great hotels, a picture perfect beloved beach and construction everywhere.  Sydney is a town on the move, but it retains the charm that has marked it since its founding on Jan. 26, 1788. That's when the first fleet of convicts and soldiers arrived, under the  governorship of Arthur Phillip. A few relics and names on a map remain to pay homage to these intrepid city founders. Gay pride is big in downtown Australia, where signs promote Gay Pride month, coming in June of this year. Sydney is capital city of New South Wales and one of Australia's largest cities.  It is known globally for its stunning harbor front Opera House with its distinctive sail-like design and its impressive Harbour Bridge (Brits and Aussies spell harbor with the "u" as they do with "colour.") OUR CELEBRITY ship docked in massive Darling Harbor. We peered down on it from our perch on the bridge, enjoying the view of it and the smaller Circular Quay port, hubs of Sydney's important waterside life. We love climbing the arched Harbor Bridge and visiting Royal Botanic Garden nearby. Take a pleasant walk through the pretty, bustling streets.  If you want a higher view than the bridge affords, Sydney Tower’s outdoor platform, the Skywalk, offers 360-degree views of the city and suburbs from 1,014 feet. It is the city's tallest building and a pleasant stroll from our base at West Hotel Sydney. IF YOU STAY in the Sydney central business area, you'll be within easy walking distance to many of the city's famous landmarks and buildings. The city itself is an architectural wonder.  Magnificent older buildings add a stately air to the town, while hundreds of newer buildings tower   The Sydney Tower indeed "towers" as Sydney's tallest building and a frequently visited landmark.   The Commonwealth Bank of  Australia dates back to 1910. National symbols are the kangaroo and emu. above the city's central business district. There, on Market Street between Pitt and Castlereagh Streets, you'll find entertainment venues, and an array of cafes and restaurants. Because we spent a week, we mingled with nicely dressed office workers and shoppers on week days. Weekends, we were among tourists heading to Darling Harbor’s waterfront bars, and thronging the promenade linking the historic Rocks area with the Sydney Opera House. Parks are popular in Sydney and the Royal Botanic Gardens offer harbor views, which we enjoyed during several picnics. SYDNEY IS named after Lord Sydney, who was British home secretary when Captain Phillip and the First Fleet arrived in January 1788. In a letter, Phillip described the colony in Sydney Cove as having “the finest harbor in the world” in which “a thousand sail of the line may ride in the most perfect security.” "Cookie and Keller" climbed Sydney Harbor Bridge for the second time. West Hotel Sydney is a Curio Collection property of the Hilton brand, with many elegant, welcoming touches. THEN  -- to the Rocks, named aptly after the massive stone on which the city was built.  Sydney's downtown offers dozens of skyscrapers, clean, wide streets.  This neighborhood offers upscale eateries, small cafes with live music and frequent concert venues.  The Rocks, a pleasant maze of historic laneways, sits in the shadow of Sydney Harbor Bridge. We like this neighborhood, where locals and tourists mingle at the open-air Rocks Markets and where we grabbed reasonably priced snacks.  We also purchased delicious Indian inspired street food and admired handmade fashions. The area has some of Sydney’s oldest pubs and many of the Rocks' restaurants offer intimacy, local charm and some nifty harbor views.  The Museum of Contemporary Art offers local and international exhibits. Buskers perform on the busy harbor front promenade so there's plenty for arts lovers. BEACH LIFE is an important part of the routine for the locals. Every fellow tourist we met wanted to see at least one of the beaches for which Australia is famous. Sydneysiders welcome locals and tourists alike to one of the world's most famous, Bondi. One can go for a casual swim, sunbathe and visit, or surf the day away on the reliable waves which draw   an international mix of surfers.  Fit locals swim in the Icebergs ocean pool year-round while the scantily clad simply bask in the sun. Sydney is a healthy town. Sydneysiders take their smoothies and high-pro breakfasts and lunches in the cafes around Hall Street. The area's many casual pubs welcome locals and tourists -- from backpackers to small, well heeled tour groups.   While Bondi Beach has a crescent of sweeping white-sand and waves to attract surfers, walkers and joggers choose the clifftop above Bondi to hike the Coogee Coastal Walk. There, they are surrounded by dramatic scenery. Bondi Beach with its crescent shape entices both locals and tourists to enjoy the sun, gentle waves and pleasant hikes.  YOU WILL  need a Visa to visit Australia and it's a good idea to get on that a few weeks or even a couple months before your trip. Be sure to secure the appropriate visa. We used the Visa Finder  to explore your options. Ensure details are correct and provide all required documents when you apply. An incomplete or incorrect application can delay the process; submitting multiple applications also  slows the process. Be careful and thorough and apply only once. Families and couples must submit one application per person, including children. The Australian Government's Global Service Centre  can help.  www.celebritycruises.com bridgeclimb.com westhotelsydneycurio.guestreservations.com australia.com experienceoz.com.au/en/sydney/sydney-tower-skywalk   As the beleaguered performer pursued by a stalker, Daebreon Poiema shines and dazzles in the role of singer Rachel Marron. She is backed by a fabulous ensemble of talented dancers and singers. --photos by Ken Jacques  BEST ON THE BOARDS : "The Bodyguard" at Welk Theatre is a tuneful triple-treat for musical theater lovers. This lively, appealing production delivers with flair all the essential goods of the genre: spectacular singing, delightful dancing and talented acting.  The well rehearsed and high-energy company obviously loves their craft and enjoys what they're doing. As Rachel's sister, Nicki Marron, Patricia Jewel stars in her own right with terrific vocal numbers. The story of a star pursued by a stalker, and the man hired to watch her was a popular 1992 film starring Kevin Costner.  In the leading role as the performer in need of security, Daebreon Poiema shines.  She shows the range of emotion necessary for the character to be believable.  Her voice is dynamic and her pitch perfect. Backing her as her sister, a brilliant singer who didn't get the breaks or fame, is Patricia Jewel. She, too, is perfectly cast and has a bluesy voice to bring down the house.  Lance Arthur Smith plays the title bodyguard with an endearing grace and winning warmth, protecting his charge and befriending her young son.  As the singer's son, Fletcher, Faizi Mahalingam charms the audience with enormous stage presence. Don't miss this production for its enchanting storyline, stunning choreography and beautiful lights, wigs and costumes. It's an emotional ride that leaves the audience standing, cheering and moved. All the right stuff for a fun night or afternoon at the theater. If you're driving up from San Diego, check out the digs at The Welk. thewelksandiego.com Four major roles are well played by a tight, talented ensemble. We meet, from left, the singer's sister, young son, the bodyguard and the shadowed singer. It's a winning foursome, supported by a fabulous cast of energetic singers and dancers.  Enjoy a visit to Fiji, where this man is one of many beautiful, friendly people we met during our recent week there. "Bula bula" means welcome. UP NEXT:  We're hopping about in the South Pacific, from small islands to the largest one, Australia. Next stop is Fiji, where the "Bula Bus" takes tourists around Denarau Island, from the marina to the hotels and more. Fiji is many islands, best known for its major isle's hospitality, beautiful and friendly people, flowers and fabulous cuisine. Enjoy the abundance of fresh fruit picked that same day. The phrase "bula bula" means welcome. Come with us to explore this friendly place where people are naturally kind and welcoming. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh take on travel, nature, performance, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Fiji's "Bula Bus" takes its name from the language. "Bula bula" means hello and is a widely used greeting in friendly Fiji. Here, the bus runs around Denarau Island with tourists enjoying the day. This handsome Fijian boy posed for us. HOP ABOARD FUN BUS FOR A LEISURELY DAY WITH FLOWERS, SEA, FRIENDLY PEOPLE    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FIJI IS BEAUTIFUL.  It offers sheer fun and relaxation with friendly people, beaches, fruit and flowers galore. From your first greeting -- a hearty "bula bula" -- until your departure (we were both misty eyed), you'll be  happy to have found this peaceful place. Pronounced ''buu-laa'', this common Fiji phrase translates to ''hello" or "welcome" and you'll hear it everywhere.  "Bula, bula," the bus driver welcomes you. His transport is called the "Bula Bus." "Bula, bula" shopkeepers echo. Passersby share a happy "bula bula." The bartenders say it with a grin. Fiji's famous spider lily abounds here. Bruce Keller stops to admire abundant Fiji flowers . Even cranky looking people soften and smile when they say "bula bula" -- it's a fun phrase and trips off the tongue with delight! WE CAN'T CLAIM to know all of Fiji, just a small, happy corner many times visited. We base our stay at the lovely Hilton Fiji Beach Resort and Spa, where we have friends and can use our Hilton Diamond Honors points for upgrades. The staff is amiable and efficient and there are flowers everywhere -- including your bed! Flowers are part of the Hilton's welcome and the culture in Fiji -- hibiscus on your bed each day. FIJI IS AN archipelago of more than 300 islands, famed for rugged landscapes, palm-lined beaches and coral reefs with clear lagoons. Divers and snorkelers love it. Whale watchers, too. Fiji Islands: Big bottom island  is where Denarau is, on the far  left side, only a small segment.  Viti Levu and Vanua Levu contain most of the population. Denarau, where we spend time, is a small private resort development on the western side of Viti Levu.  It's known for its "Republic of Fiji Shuttles" affectionately called "Bula Bus." Ten drivers man these charming open air buses with views of picturesque Denarau Island. The Bula Bus travels between  major international hotels, including our favorite Hilton Fiji Resort, Denarau Golf and Racquet Club and the bustling Port Denarau Marina. The buses operate on a continuous loop departing approximately every 15 minutes  This poster previews a Fiji dance performance held at several resorts. from 7:30 a.m. to 11:30pm, 7 days a week. Tickets for all day unlimited travel are $8 per adult and a four-day pass unlimited for $24 per adult. Children under 12 travel free with paying adults. Fine dining at Fiji's Hilton Resort which offers several top restaurant choices with gourmet fare.   11:30pm, 7 days a week. Tickets for all day unlimited travel are $8 per adult and a four-day pass unlimited for $24 per adult. Children under 12 travel free with paying adults. New friends are easy to make in Fiji, where smiles and welcomes are common. Lovely flowers are everywhere. WE ALSO enjoyed traditional dance shows, boat rides, and a day tour. We passed on the zip line and snorkeling excursions, taking walks instead. There's the Kula Wild Adventure Park, originally a bird park, but now a "Family Fun Park" and an ecological preserve right in Viti Levu. We saw families coming and going, all smiling and looking pleasantly tired from the activities. OUR LITTLE corner of Fiji was just right for combining relaxation and reading with easy-going sight seeing. We hopped on and off the Bula Bus, strolled around the harbor, took a couple Uber rides to attractions and mainly read and rested. If you wish to do more you can. Snorkeling is world class, there's plenty of shopping and ice cream stands abound. A light afternoon rain didn't dampen spirits at Hilton's Fiji Resort, with world class comforts. What stands out about Fiji, though, is its people. Whether serving a meal, showing how to properly cut a coconut, or working a loom, Fijians offers a smile, a chance to learn, grow, relax and rewind. Actor and writer Omri Schein, center, is a dapper, witty Hercule Poirot, backed by a letter-perfect ensemble in a world premier drama based on an Agatha Christie classic. www.fiji.travel ;  www.hilton.com/en/hotels/nanhihi-hilton-fiji-beach-resort-and-spa/ bulabuses.com.fj/ BEST ON THE BOARDS : "Murder on the Links" at San Diego's Northcoast Repertory Theatre is sheer delight. In a lively interpretation of Agatha Christie's most popular whodunits, Omri Schein shines as Hercule Poirot, backed by a fabulous, point-perfect ensemble. Clever playwright Steven Dietz brings the famed and ever-so-suave Belgian detective to life to solve one of Christie's most intricate whodunits. Our fellow playgoers laughed and clapped at the lovely set, and the antics and gestures of the well-tuned cast. Fun, frivolous, Stylish shtick, classy camp, nuances galore -- a fast-paced whodunnit guaranteed to amuse. On through May 21.  northcoastrep.org   These four hungry diners prepare to tuck into Spam burgers,  Spam tacos,  Spam eggrolls and a decadent frozen dessert. UP NEXT:  Let's hear it for Spam. That sometimes disparaged staple of many diets was developed by Hormel in 1937 and rose to popularity with the troops in World War II. Children grow up with spam and it is an important part of millions of diets -- from Hawaii to South Korea.  Spam is celebrated in Honolulu all year, especially during the city's annual "Spam Jam" held each year. We happened to be in Honolulu this week and took in the lively festival where a major street is blocked off for two dozen food and art booths to celebrate all manner of Spam delights. Thousands rock out to live  Hawaiian music, not minding the long lines. It's a truly fun time. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on food, family, travel, performance, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa is an architectural, cultural and artistic wonder. Wellington's delightful complex entertains, educates and engages thousands each year. We left our balcony room on Celebrity's Eclipse to enjoy a day in this marvelous free museum.   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore Te Papa's treasures from  Celebrity's lovely ship, Eclipse. Wellington is an engaging stop on a fine and varied Celebrity  itinerary.  WELLINGTON MUSEUM OFFERS SPLENDID EXHIBITS, WEALTH OF ART, CULTURE, HISTORY,USER FRIENDLY WONDERS Great day tour for Celebrity cruisers STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A WONDERFUL MUSEUM  with myriad exhibits and inspiring insights into New Zealand's rich culture awaits visitors to this small, intriguing country. You'll find a stunning array of displays as varied as the country itself when you visit this six-story masterpiece on the waterfront. We highly recommend this for cruisers. Wellington's Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongerewa is truly "a container of treasures." It's one of many exciting stops on Celebrity's New Zealand itinerary, a 12-day immersion in fjord country and the contrasting cities that make New Zealand appealing. OPENED IN  1998 after the merging of the National Museum of New Zealand and National Art Gallery, the Te Papa museum has an auspicious, older pedigree. Its holdings go back more than a century, to a collection established in 1865. In those days, the museum was known as the Colonial Museum. It was renamed the Dominion Museum in 1907, and in 1936 it was relocated to a new building. More change, mergers and moves were to come before its present incarnation. THE MUSEUM   building is itself an architectural wonder, befitting the marvels inside. We toured the museum with a family of fellow travelers we befriended on our Celebrity  cruise, which includes a stop in Wellington. It was fun watching their grade-school kids delight in the spirit of invention and innovation the exhibits offer. Scholarly research forms the basis for myriad exhibits, but a sense of fun and discovery prevails. A Maori meeting house, for instance, was built to specific detail. It is watched over by a proud Maori docent who stands sentinel and answers questions from curious kids and adults. Our new friends also learned how to hold a ukulele and guitar. They practiced on a Maori drum, and wandered nearby to experience the sounds and vibrations of an earthquake. Rugby, gay rights and rock 'n' roll all share the spotlight in this marvelous place, which also takes a look at the Commonwealth's influence through the years. Birds play a part in the museum's exhibitions, too, where the beloved kiwi's life and times are described and vividly displayed. A Maori meeting house is kept watch over by a Maori docent, who answers questions and keeps vigil as Celebrity Cruises guests explored. Gallipoli's horrors are described in detail in an emotionally charged exhibit. Celebrity's Eclipse provides a way to see New Zealand's  varied cities in style, comfort and smooth sailing.   WE DIDN'T HAVE time to browse all 800,000 artworks, photographs, collection objects, and botanical and zoological specimens -- that would demand several more visits. But did take an hour to see one of several changing exhibits, an intense study of World War I's Gallipoli campaign, which brought the horrors of war home in huge sculptures, recordings and artfully curated displays of soldiers' personal effects.  The rich history of New Zealand as a point in the Pacific Island "triangle" involves many religions which are artfully explored at Te Papa. New Zealand's kiwi is the focal point of an intriguing exhibit. Emphasis on indigenous and contemporary art honors the heritage of the complex. For many years, the museum shared space with the National Art Gallery, which had incorporated into the New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts. Bruce Keller hams it up inside one of many exhibits which encourages visitor participation. DURING  ITS name changes, quality has reigned -- from its 1972 morph as the Dominion Museum to the National Museum, then years later when a parliamentary act in 1992 merged  two institutions -- museum and art gallery -- and the present name emerged.  Besides a history, art and culture lesson -- from refugees to dinosaurs -- the museum expertly combines learning with fascination and fun. You can step inside various masks and armor, pretending to be a knight or an extra in a science fiction film. Witness a giant squid in an enormous display. We enjoyed the museum with families, school groups and couples from all over the world. Don't miss it if you're anywhere near "Kiwi Country." It's awe inspiring. And Wellington has other treasures, including the home and garden of groundbreaking modernist writer Katherine Mansfield. www.katherinemansfield.com/ www.tepapa.govt.nz/ The "Lost in Yonkers" cast is tremendous, a gifted ensemble directed with empathy and tenderness by Jacquelyn Ritz. This top-notch production is a must-see for theater lovers for its terrific timing, and artful blend of humor and pathos.  BEST ON THE BOARDS: What a pleasure to recommend Scripps Ranch Theatre's flawless production of Neil Simon's Pulitzer Prize winning "Lost in Yonkers," a highlight of San Diego's spring theater bounty. A brilliant cast, beautifully directed by Jacquelyn Ritz, delivers a first-rate interpretation of Simon's masterpiece. The story, set in 1940s Yonkers, centers around the struggles of a complex family: two motherless teen-age boys, their earnest and grieving father, a hardened immigrant grandmother, wisecracking mobster uncle, intellectually stunted but charming auntie and another auntie with a comical speech disorder. The engaging production unfolds on an eye-catching set which gives the perfect spin to Simon's moving yet funny storyline. It's a rollercoaster of loss, courage, independence, loyalty and yearning, with winning period costumes.  Don't miss it for the hopes and dreams we all have, and characters we've known and loved. The run is through June 11. Consider tickets for yourself and favorite theater loving friends.    scrippsranchtheatre.org   UP NEXT:    Memorial Day approaches and with it, an opportunity to remember and pay homage to those lost in war, tragedy or terrorism. We share our visits to memorials around the world that have touched us -- from Pearl Harbor in Hawaii, to Yad Vashem in Israel and the memorial to "9-11" in New York City. We explore the meaning of the word "memorial," whether honoring a person, tragedy or historical event. The influence of memorials exists in all of us. Then we're on to a month-long celebration of equality in PRIDE, with some of our favorite photos and commentary on a celebration that began at Stonewall years ago. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, performance, history, nature, family and more. The memorial to the tragedy of "9-11" at the new World Trade Center building is a striking architectural accomplishment:   www.whereiscookie.com

Smiles abound in the Body Glove "Super Raft Tour" along the historical Kona Coast. We had our eye out for dolphins, whales and other boats, while we learned of Hawaii's fascinating history from a trained scholar. We had a fabulous sunset a bit later. BODY GLOVE RAFT RIDE BLENDS HISTORY, SCENERY, FABULOUS FOOD AND FUN   A skilled historian and storyteller gives history to adventure seekers aboard Body Glove's Super Raft, a fun expedition. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU'LL  FEEL  as if you're almost flying as you glide over the waves along the fabled Kona Coat, on Ocean Adventures Body Glove Super Raft. We'd experienced the outfit's lovely catamaran a time or two -- always fun and relaxing -- but she's in dry dock awaiting the next season right now. So we booked the company's "super raft" for a lovely sunset dinner cruise. Besides combining history with beautiful scenery, it featured a poke bowl as tasty as any we've had in many years of sampling the island's fabulous ahi tuna. body glove  THE BEAUTIFUL   Kona coast came alive for our group of 15 nature and history enthusiasts as we zipped at 35 mph, leaving Kailua-Kona and traveling up the coast to historic bays and inlets. Our stops included  Kealakekua Bay, where on Valentine's Day, 1779, Captain James Cook died at the hands of an incensed crowd during his third Pacific voyage. Historians tell us he likely had it coming. A Kona coast rainbow is a spectacular sight. We learned that he and his entourage were initially greeted as gods. The indigenous people welcomed him and his men for several weeks of feasting, frolicking with the women, enjoying island pleasures. When he left the bay on his ships "Resolution'' and ''Discovery,'' he returned a few days later seeking repair for one of the vessels. Returning to the Big Island this time, his welcome was less enthusiastic. When Hawaiians supposedly took one of his longboats, he made a huge mistake.  He decided to take dramatic revenge and hold ransom Kalaniʻōpuʻu, the ruling chief (aliʻi nui).  The highly regarded chief reigned over the entire island of Hawaii and was a popular ruler. The decision to hold royalty in exchange for a small longboat was the fatal error of Cook's final voyage, and led to his death. Setting out from the dock, one enjoys seeing locals on the water. In season, dolphins and sometimes whales are also spotted. A delicious poke bowl is served during a peaceful sunset aboard the raft. THE STORY was expressively told at the site of Cook's demise by Body Glove's animated on-board cultural expert, who spoke at several picturesque stops along the way to the island's most famous bay.  The company is well known on the islands and Body Glove has garnered raves from customers and outdoor enthusiasts, water sports aficionados and critics.  It offers a variety of experiences from snorkel and dinner cruises, and in whale season -- December to March -- one of the highest ranked humpback expeditions, where we've also seen spinner dolphins, pilot whales, sperm whales, manta rays and more. Body Glove is also "nature and culture conscious" and travels with trained naturalists and Hawaiian history experts, a real plus. bodyglovehawaii.com ; 800 551-8911 The Body Glove "Super Raft" awaits at the harbor in Kailua-Kona, where it takes passengers on several fun rides. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are exploring the seven seas on NCL vessels, here last week on a trans-Atlantic crossing from Orlando to Lisbon.   UP NEXT: Our travelers pay homage to their Scandinavian roots-(Keller's mother was 100 per cent Swedish and Cookie's maternal grandfather was 100 per cent Norwegian.) They've logged 133 cruises, recently on Norwegian Cruise Line's Bliss and Getaway. They've booked passage on NCL's new Viva,  one of the most lavishly appointed vessels afloat and the latest in NCL's Prima Class. Godparent for Viva is singer Luis Fonsi, five-time Latin Grammy-winning singer. Cookie and Keller are excited to be on board for the Viva inaugural, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch them weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Norwegian Cruise Lines is known for its flashy artwork and distinctive designs on the ship.  Here, NCL's Getaway is photographed on a recent trans-Atlantic cruise from Orlando to Lisbon.  The new NCL Viva has an artful design, too, in blues and aquas conjuring ocean waves.  NCL's FLEET WELCOME WORLD-CLASS SHIP VIVA WITH MANY ENTICEMENTS Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers leave Orlando recently on a trans-Atlantic NCL cruise to Lisbon aboard the Getaway. They're excited to be on Viva's inaugural. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU'RE  a fan of cruising and follow "cruise news," you know about the newest Norwegian Cruise Lines ship, Viva.  She's making quite a splash, at 142,500 gross tons and a length of 965 feet, about a fifth of a mile. She's a luxurious floating resort, the latest NCL "Prima Class" vessel. Viva boasts a staggering selection of activities and entertainment, from an array of musical options to a global offering of restaurants, elegantly designed areas to relax and unwind, and a thoughtful itinerary of favorite cities and less visited ports.  NCL's Viva offers an Infinity Beach area with inviting places to relax, swim, read, enjoy a beverage and watch the water. OUR RECENT crossing on NCL's Getaway previewed the offerings we'll enjoy on Viva. We booked the inaugural over a year ago when we heard of it from a fellow cruise enthusiast.  Special events are planned for Viva's first passengers. Joining us to salute the ship will be Viva godparent Luis Fonsi, five-time Latin Grammy-winning singer. We're excited about this Labor Day cruise because we'll visit favorite cities like Naples and Venice as well as cities not often visited: Syracusa, Koper, and Zadar.   ON OUR  Atlantic crossing earlier this month, we lazed about our Deck 10 balcony, enjoyed first-rate entertainment including Latin dance and a Broadway show, and strolled deck 8 with its lovely indoor and outdoor dining and relaxing spaces.  Find dining and decadent desserts are part of the allure of an NCL cruise.  Viva's welcoming design follows suit with this novelty, also on deck 8. Features include the Ocean walk glass bridge, infinity pools and an inviting space called "Infinity Beach." With its floating resort motif, a firepit and dining options await at Indulge Outdoor Lounge and Indulge Food Hall, billed as an "upscale open-air marketplace."  As on our Getaway, NCL prides itself in a range of dining options, several centering in Viva's Ocean Boulevard seaside restaurants. The beautifully designed outdoor promenade is a 44,000 square foot walkway wrapping around the ship. Besides enticing dining options, the area boasts a three-story speedway and pulse-pounding slides for the daring.  CRUISE LINES vie for "over the top" offerings, new ways to attract the world's growing cruise clientele.  Style, luxury and innovation are the bywords. Wealthy cruisers look for a high staff-to-passenger ratio to increase their service. Dining can be a classy affair on the new Viva, with elegant tables and views of the ocean. NCL    attracts these high-end cruises in the way the liners of yore did. NCL offers quiet, relaxing places to unwind, here Getaway's Vibe Beach Club on deck 17.  Viva sports a Vibe, too, for guests 18 and older. While Cunard's classic ocean liners offered first-class areas exclusive to "deep pocket" travelers, NCL ships have a separate "ultimate luxury" area called The Haven. It's the equivalent of Cunard's "Queen's Class" travel, a separate area for travelers who expect the best in luxury cruising. On Norwegian vessels, including the new Viva, the Haven includes personal concierge and butler service, luxurious suite accommodations and many amenities. Haven guests enjoy a private sundeck with its own infinity pool, hot tub, sauna and cold room, lovely lounging areas, a private restaurant and exclusive bars. Top entertainment awaits on Viva, as on Getaway, with Broadway caliber shows, such as "Million Dollar Quartet."  A range of entertainment includes ethnic bands, piano, vocal duos, comedy, game shows and specialty acts including magic.  OUR GETAWAY general manager, Mario Markovic, noted that Haven usually quickly sells out but that all NCL guests have access to fine dining options and ship entertainment. Guests in inside cabins save money by utilizing handsomely designed public spaces. NCL cares about environmental impact, and Viva's Metropolitan Bar is Norwegian's sustainably-focused bar.  Because dining is a big attraction for cruisers of all budgets, myriad options await on Viva, including the Mediterranean-inspired Palomar, traditional hibachi-style Hasuki, gourmet French fare in Le Bistro, a contemporary sushi house Nama and American fare in Surfside Cafe and Grill. Specialty restaurants cost a bit extra, but some visits are often included in the fare. It's worth it to augment the fine dining available to all cruisers. NCL WAS AMONG  the first line to offer "freestyle cruising" where guests dine when and with whom they choose. The globe-trotting line cruises Alaska, Bermuda, Australia and New Zealand, Hawaii, Bahamas, Europe, Mexico, the Caribbean and more in options ranging from world cruises to weekend getaways. NCL transits the Panama Canal and offers a popular week-long Hawaiian itinerary on Pride of America. Watch for specials at  ncl.com Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller aboard a vintage caboose on Dunedin Railways in New Zealand. A mutual love of trains takes them on many fun trips. UP NEXT:  Train, train, train. Wherever we go in the world, we look for an opportunity to travel by train. Trains get us "up close" to enjoy the countryside, historic sites, rivers, peaks, fields, animal life and gardens. We see how people live in a relaxing and colorful way, and at a slower pace than air travel affords. We "look" without the strain of driving a car, and get a leisurely feel for a new city, state or country.  All aboard trains in the United Kingdom, New Zealand, Europe, Japan and San Francisco, where our nephew James is our knowledgeable guide, a youthful aficionado of train travel. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for  a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

A spectacular gannet sanctuary in New Zealand offers a rare opportunity to view these graceful, enduring birds close-up, here with their young chicks near the end of their breeding season. EXPLORING BELOVED BIRD'S BREEDING GROUND IN SANCTUARY NORTH  OF AUCKLAND   A sea of gannet parents and their young stretch out toward the southern end of the Tasman Sea, awaiting migration.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELL ER COMING FACE TO  face  with hundreds of gannets is a thrill of a lifetime. We have the good fortune to know gannet-loving friends in Auckland, New Zealand. Their home is an hour's drive from the beautiful Muriwai gannet breeding site. So Barbie and Tom graciously organized an outing when they learned of our interest in this fleet, handsome and able-bodied bird.   At Muriwai, Tom Wellington and Barbie Davidson, right, hosted Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers to a splendid day of gannet viewing. At Muriwai, Tom Wellington and Barbie Davidson, right, hosted Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers to a splendid day of gannet viewing. WE FOUR DROVE  to Muriwai, a popular coastal community on Auckland's west coast, to watch the graceful birds, famous for their endurance capabilities and long flights.  These stalwart birds can fly 300 miles at 60 miles per hour. Their excellent vision allows them to spot fish from 100 feet or more. So it's no surprise that paleontologists have unearthed the fossilized remains of an extinct gannet species that lived in what is now Portugal during the Miocene epoch, some 15 million years ago. POETS CONSIDER  the northern gannet to be symbolic of the perfect marriage between wind and sea. They can live 15 years, and besides being graceful, strong and long lived, they are "somewhat monogamous," experts claim. That means the parents separate when their chicks leave the nest -- presumably amicably. They usually bond again the following year, perhaps just needing a change of venue.  A young girl is one of the fascinated to uristsand locals who admire Muriwai's gannets. NEARLY AS LARGE as an albatross, the northern gannet has a heavy, sharp bill, pointed tail and long, slender wings. We were thrilled to watch dozens of adults with their young.    Catching them in February before they leave in March, w e were thrilled to watch dozens of adults with their young and "teen-agers." The mature gannet is snowy white with black wingtips and a downy crown washed with gold. The young ones have fuzz, froth and fluff, and the juveniles have speckles and greyish feathers. A close-up of a mature gannet with lovely blue and gold.   ALTHOUGH gannets can be seen occasionally from most places along the coasts of New Zealand's main islands, most Kiwi gannetries are situated off the North Island, where our friends live. The Muriwai colony inhabits two vertical-sided islands, and the viewing spot is a pleasant stroll from the parking area. We were lucky to observe both adults and juveniles, and relieved that dogs aren't allowed because they would disturb the nests on the sandy banks. About 1,200 pairs of gannets nest in Muriwai from August to March each year, caring for their single young in nests just centimeters apart. Gannets normally lay only one chalky-blue egg, using their webbed feet to warm the eggs. Of three, New Zealand's largest mainland gannetry is at Cape Kidnappers with around 5,000 breeding pairs. Farewell Spit and Muriwai are the country's other two. Several stages of gannets can be seen in this photo, from the fuzzy young, to mid-sized juveniles to fully grown adults.  Several stages of gannets can be seen in this photo, from the fuzzy young, to mid-sized juveniles to fully grown adults.  YOUNG GANNETS forsake their nests at about three-and-a-half months. Then, like many human Kiwis, these birds head across the Tasman Sea for Australia's east coast. Their arduous maiden flight can take from six to 15 days from Muriwai. There are other gannet colonies in the world. England, Scotland and Wales hosts several -- at Troup Head, St Kilda in Scotland, and on Grassholm in Wales. Bempton Cliffs is home to the only mainland breeding colony of gannets in England. Northern Hemisphere birds arrive at the colony from January and leave in August and September. They migrate from the coast of Africa, another remarkable gannet journey. These tiny endangered Humboldt penguins are among the stars at Sea Life Park in Honolulu, among the tropical delights there. UP NEXT: While we're in a birding frame of mind, come with us to Sea Life Park in Honolulu, where the rare, endangered Humboldt penguin is making a comeback thanks to researchers and diligent care.  The tiny, tropical bird is among other attractive residents, including dolphins and sharks. We explore the well tended exhibits and take time to feed the budgies, too, at this popular wildlife park, animal sanctuary and aquarium. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. Please share the link and consider a free subscription: www.whereiscookie.com

Artist Mark di Suvero's "Beethoven's Quartet" is a stunning work. An art tour participant in the left of the photo gives a sense of the enormity of the monumental piece at Tippet Rise Art Center. ART CENTER SPREADS ITS WINGS, INVITES GUESTS TO EXPLORE LAND WITH BILLION YEAR HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE  MEYERS Geologist John Weber earned his doctorate at Northwestern University and has made a name for himself studying plate tectonics around the world. Here, he explains shifts in the earth at Tippet Rise, over 3 billion years. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MONTANA'S STUNNING  Tippet Rise Art Center is a music, art and nature showpiece reflecting its founders' love of the arts and nature and their desire to welcome the public. This year, the enchanting center entertained a different group of visitors. The engaging complex invited guests to "Geo-Paleo Tours,'' exploring the ancient geological history of the sprawling 12,500-acre, working cattle ranch. A man made piece of art, Domo, is one of three  pieces at Tippet Rise created by Ensamble Studio of Spain. Here, Cookie is dwarfed by the massive 2016 sculpture. POISED AT the convergence of two contrasting regions -- the Beartooth Mountains and the Great Plains -- Tippet  Rise hosts world class players of classical and cutting edge composers. It is also home to a unique combination of geologic wonders, from fossilized marine life to ice-age gravel deposits. The art center celebrates multiple connections between nature, art, architecture, and music.   WE HOPPED  in two comfy vans with a small group of  a dozen-plus fellow "geo enthusiasts" to study some of the oldest rocks on planet Earth. The sea shells we find on our hikes along the West Fork of the Stillwater River prove the existence here of early marine life in what expert John Weber calls "upturned limestone palisade fins."  We joined other lucky guests who signed up early to tour the acreage, making a series of stops to meander past grazing cattle and explore the land. We gained insights into ancient geological and paleontological features, glimpsing into the past as we viewed rocks, valleys and ledges with ancient history scattered across the art center’s acreage. We learned that a mile-deep sheet of ice once covered the Beartooth Mountains we know and love today. Difficult to imagine, but true. Geology fascinates Karen May, who uses career experience to enhance the "hands on" tour at Tippet Rise.  While hiking and examining maps, graphs and  rock samples, we learned that the melting and slipping of the ice sheets created over time the valleys and streams we see today. The past came alive as we learned of the shifts, turns and eruptions which shaped the landscape we explore on foot, bikes and off-road vehicles. Through the enterprise of Tippet Rise founders Peter and Cathy Halstead, the art center undertook these geo tours to complement the concerts of classical music and exhibits of huge contemporary outdoor sculptures. Expert geologists take participants on a lively, energetic hike to explore Tippet Rise and its rocks, limestone cliffs and fossils. Hikers also learn of volcanic eruptions which shaped the land. Photographer Bruce Keller enjoys several hikes in Tippet Rise's 12,000 acres.   We drove past massive contemporary art pieces, learning that millions of years ago, gravel encrusted plateaus spread out on Tippet Rise. These remain on the ranch, eroded from the rising Beartooths. We walked this land on four hikes through the varied land, climbing and touching many intriguing formations. WEBER showed us fossils that might have gone unnoticed but for his sharp eye. Hard for this musician and writer to wrap the brain around billion year old rocks -- or to grasp that "younger ones'' in our area of the Beartooths are only 75 to 80 million years old, mere kids in the planet's geological evolution.  One tour participant, a geologist with her master's degree, studies Montana's landscape from her summer home in Bozeman, returning to Seattle in the winter.  She and others considered the nearly four-hour adventure "enlightening, mind boggling."  Another excited tour hiker, a musician and fan of the musical component of the art center, said the "Geology and Landscape" tour is a lovely complement to the art and music, and a much older component of what makes Tippet Rise unique. Spotlight on Center's art  A thin shaft of white is likely bone, preserved in the rock. A dozen geology buffs enjoy several hikes over a period of hours, moving from place to place in vans, to explore the Tippet Rise geological wonders, sculpted over the ages. "WE ARE SO lucky to have this in south-central Montana, and so close to Yellowstone Park," he said. My observant Keller also noted how the "geo tour" is another way the center's founders exhibit environmental consciousness. The Halsteads are "environmentally savvy," he observed, in the way they minimize impact on the land. Buildings are warmed and cooled by geothermal systems and lit by solar power. The place is beautifully designed so that even deep parking lots are camouflaged by the hillsides.  A well organized construction project has brought in trucks and other equipment to build a state of the art sound studio, latest project in the wings. THE GEO-PALEO tours reflect a partnership between Tippet Rise and the Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association (YBRA). Funding comes from Princeton Geological Association, dating back to a 1936 agreement made at the foot of the Beartooth Mountains near Red Lodge, Montana. YBRA’s distinguished faculty includes Weber, who guided our tour, the last of the season. The concert season began Aug. 18. A March lottery determined lucky ticket holders for the short season of world class performers. The coveted concerts end Sept. 17. Check the website Wednesdays for rare but occasional tickets.  tippetrise.org   Elvin Dhimitri of Opera E Lirica in Rome, gives a brilliant concert of "The Four Seasons." UP NEXT: We're in Rome, seeing splendid buildings, fountains and artwork. A highlight of the week was a brilliant performance of Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" featuring Italy's most famous violinist, Elvin Dhimitri. The concert rocketed to the top of Cookie's "Lifetime Top Concerts" -- tying for first place with Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga, with a host of other highlight concerts on a burgeoning list. Then we're off to Madeira, and whale watching off the coast of Oregon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on life, nature, the arts, family and more.

The drama of Madeira is partly because it rises from sea level to 6,000 feet.  One can drive it in less than an hour, experiencing the beauty. EXOTIC ISLAND OFFERS VARIETY OF CLIMATE, TERRAIN, AND LURES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A memorial to war reminds that Madeira prefers peace. BEGIN YOUR Madeira outing in Funchal with its gorgeous flora and fauna. Climb from sea level to 6,000 feet and peer down at the ocean below. Stop for a beer or glass of wine and watch the ocean. Make time for the war memorials and a stroll through lush botanical gardens. But don't miss a chance to drive up that splendid coastline, with views to stagger. Madeira retains its rustic charm in casual cafes and eateries, but offers elegant hotels, too. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers high above the coastline in Madeira. IT'S EASY to fall in love with Madeira for its variety:  ragged forests, pretty beachfront, fine art, culture of many kinds including music and fine food. You'll also be struck by an awareness of the island's stormy past. MADEIRA  tried to remain neutral in the great world wars, but because of Portugal's proximity, and the island's strategic location, the people  have lived with a sense of fear,  and determination to preserve their safe haven. To secure international support for its authority in Africa, Portugal entered the war in 1914 on the side of Britain and the Allies. Our guide described an incident of more than 100 years ago which people still recount and pass on to their children. On December 1916 during World War I, a German U-boat entered Funchal harbor on Madeira; it torpedoed and sank, creating havoc for days. Today's population includes thousands of Gibraltarians whose ancestors were shipped to Madeira in 1940 when it was feared Gibraltar would be attacked. Time for a beer with a view of beautiful beaches.      BRITISH PEOPLE have long loved Madeira, stemming from Britain's occupation after the Napoleonic Wars, a friendly occupation ending in 1814 when the island was returned to Portugal. Brits and many others are attracted to the dramatic landscape created by volcanic eruptions from the Atlantic seafloor. The layers of lava eventually reached the sea surface and created the Madeira Archipelago -- beginning a mere 20 million years ago.  More recently -- about two million years ago -- the volcanic eruptions ended and seeds washed ashore. Birds followed and dined on the first plant growth, now beautiful, old-growth forests. We enjoy the island for those forests and dramatic mountains,  balmy climate, and flowers of every shade. A fine old hotel, Reid's, is a fun splurge for a couple days. Reid's Palace, a stately old hotel, reigns. The people of Madeira enjoy plants and are expert cooks. Many inviting, small restaurants serve specialty dishes. UNTIL RECENTLY , exploring the island was arduous but millions of dollars of infrastructure and road work have made its mountainous land and rugged coasts accessible. But Madeira has long been sought after for its fruit, flowers and temperate climate.  Its rough terrain didn't stop sailors of yore. Phoenician, Roman and North African explorers all reached the island, likely landing near the seaside town of Calheta on the southwest coast. There, we visited an impressive memorial bound to touch the heart of every viewer.  A stone wall reveals the outline of a soldier holding a child's hand with one hand and a gun in the other. Each of the figures is holding a rose and hundreds of small faces cover the remaining space. The memorial commemorates the "Overseas War," fought from 1961 to 1975. We were curious about this strange moniker.  The war has several  other names, too, all elaborate: Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on the trail of food, history, art and music in Madeira. the Portuguese Colonial War or the War of Liberation, or the Angolan, Guinea-Bissau and Mozambican War of Independence. Our guide described it as "clashes between the Portuguese armed forces and forces of the liberation movements of the colonies." It happened during Estado Novo, the Portuguese authoritarian regime of 1933 to1974. THE PEOPLE  seem happy to be free of the yoke of a dictatorship and are welcoming to tourists.  Flights to Madeira can be found for as cheap as $219 from Europe and $900 from the U.S. Ferries from the mainland are a great alternative, and one can take a car or bicycle on board and be across the sea in a few hours. "Keller and Cookie" wear leis presented to them by hosts at Hilton Waikoloa Village on The Big Island of Hawaii. UP NEXT :  Lore of the lei. When one visits Hawaii, it is customary to wear a lei at some point during the visit. You might even be greeted by your host with a lei, or find one in your hotel room.  It symbolizes love and welcome, and is a friendly way to express love, friendship, celebration, sympathy, honor or greeting. Hawaiians consider the lei the symbol of Hawaii and the aloha spirit. In ancient Hawaii, wearing a lei represented wealth, royalty and rank. More about that soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com

TONY WINNING FESTIVAL SURVIVES FIRES, LAYOFFS, TURMOIL, PANDEMIC,  FINANCIAL WOES    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The audience begins to file in and take seats in preparation for "The Three Musketeers" at Allen Elizabethan Theater. The "pre show" Green Show is a tradition at Oregon Shakespeare, which has struggled since COVID and fires put a serious strain on the much loved fest. Oregon Shakespeare's outdoor venue, the Allen Elizabethan Theater, presents two plays: "Twelfth Night" and  another work. YOU CAN'T  keep a good thing down. The award winning Oregon Shakespeare Festival is proof of that time honored observation. As the embattled festival heads into autumn and its Oct. 15 closing, it's a perfect time to salute the labors of hundreds of staff and thousands of supporters who are rallying to save the Tony winning regional theater and southern Oregon gem. SINCE 1935,   the enterprising OSF has produced an impressive docket of hundreds of plays -- from Shakespearean tragedy to farce and contemporary comedy, musicals and drama. The festival has garnered international raves for turning out as many as eight or 10 polished productions running in repertory fashion. The elegant Ashland Springs Hotel is an oasis for this column's team and a loyal international clientele.  Traditionally, the festival begins in spring and continues into autumn. COVID clipped the festival's wings, shortening the season and number of works. But OSF is learning to fly again. The operation includes three theater spaces and other buildings, occupying a four-acre campus fronting one of Oregon's prettiest sanctuaries -- the peaceful, well loved Lithia Park. Nearby is the Plaza, a bustling and varied complex of shops and eateries in this charming southern Oregon town of 21,600. Front and center is Ashland Springs Hotel, the elegant grand dame in a town full of interesting eateries and welcoming B&Bs with a range of other accommodations for all budgets. Ashland Springs remains our favorite for its beauty, superb service, charming nature inspired artwork, comfort and proximity -- steps away from the festival. Ashland Hills is just a couple miles away from town center, and has proximity to hiking and nature. Both properties have fine restaurants. The house lights dim, the stage lights go up, a ray of hope for a continued future of a much loved institution, OSF. IN 2020, AS OSF  struggled with the pandemic and fire, radical lay-offs were instituted. 400 staff and 80 per cent of the workforce were gone, but with determination, financial gifts and adjustment, the festival survived. Even pared down, the quality and diversity of founder Angus Bowmer's dream live on.  Bowmer, a clever Scotsman, created the fest in 1935, staging boxing matches to fund his theatrical vision. His early festivals offered variety and originality, making theater lovers of sports fans and vice versa. Today's shortened playbill still honors that concept through new work and classics with the trademark inventive OSF spin: gender-bending, colorblind "play's the thing" bravado. Ashland Springs Hotel is at the center of the city, a lovely oasis elegantly restored by an enterprising couple. It's our favorite. If you want to be closer to nature, Ashland Hills is a nice option. The festival has yet to recover from that near knock-out punch. Besides the layoffs and other emergency measures, a fundraiser was devised. "The Show Must Go On: Save Our Season" raised $2.5 million to complete the 2023 season. But insiders say the fest is not out of the woods yet.   Former artistic director Nataki Garrett, whose "Romeo and Juliet" won raves.     Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Lithia Park, Ashland, Oregon. TURMOIL AT THE TOP and revamped financial goals  result in what  OSF board chair Diane Yu calls "a more sustainable business model." The goal "is to foster strong relationships with local businesses, audiences, and donors, to strengthen our fragile infrastructure." Online productions and amped up educational outreach are also planned. Along with financial turmoil and recovery from both fires and pandemic, artistic director Nataki Garrett's resignation added to the fest's challenges.  She resigned after death threats and racial slurs and  Tim Bond was named to take over as new OSF artistic director Sept. 1.  Garrett is missed -- known as she was for her vision, dynamism and for putting a new, fresh spin on classical works while inviting fresh perspectives in new productions. Her "Romeo and Juliet" this year was an engaging, contemporary interpretation of the great love story. She wrote inciteful program notes. A young actor spreads her wings in the Green Show, a popular feature. IN ITS GLORY  days, up to 2019 -- before the woes of the pandemic -- the festival reached an attendance of an impressive 360,000. Each patron averaged three shows. We encourage readers to help keep the tradition alive, check out the website, catch the end of the 2023 season ("Rent," "Twelfth Night," "The Three Musketeers," and more). Check out OSF's unhinged "It's Christmas, Carol!" over the holidays and watch for the 2024 season. Consider a donation to sustain the troubled theater and continue founder Bowmer's vision.  Supporters worldwide hope the festival continues. www.osfashland.org   or 800 219-8161www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com or 885 795-4545 www.AshlandHillsHotel.com www.LUNACafeAshland.com www.LarksRestaurant.com Oregon Cabaret Theatre presents a lively season of shows, including "Kinky Boots" which added shows because of sell-out audiences at the popular venue. UP NEXT: We have a fun story for theater lovers as we step inside another Ashland institution, the town's lively cabaret. Fashioned from an old and stately church with a famous chandelier, it is a historic Oregon landmark.  So while we're in an Ashland frame of mind, don't overlook Oregon Cabaret Theatre where "Kinky Boots" is winning raves.  It's just across the street from Oregon Shakespeare Festival and well worth your time for an entertaining evening or afternoon. Then we're off to Florida's Kennedy Space Center, a week with the whales in Depoe Bay, Oregon, a visit to a stunning Portland, Oregon, grotto, and a ride on a trolley in Montana's state capital, Helena. Remember to explore, learn and live with us for a fresh weekly spin on nature, performance, family, travel and more.