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Cows graze contentedly in a thunder storm earlier in the week.  Workers on the new roof took a rain day Thursday.  CONSTRUCTION CHAOS IS GETTING UNDER CONTROL, WING IS HEALING AND WILD LIFE'S FANTASTIC UNDER THE BIG SKY Berries are ripening this week, ready for the bears and birdies. Hawks are on the watch for food, fall.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller load up on Park City, Montana, corn. THERE'S SOMETHING GLORIOUS  about this time of year in the West. Mornings are crisp, mid-day is sunny, the leaves are beginning to turn, and autumn is but a couple weeks away. It's time to layer up! The Park City corn is ready, and we're among hundreds of Montanans and visitors carting home bags! Chokecherries and huckleberries are attracting bears and birds. We've already seen snow in the high mountains! While Labor Day signals the end of summer, winter can come anytime now.  For in Montana, as my grandmother remarked, "We have nine months of winter and three months of company." Pansies love the cooler weather. High Chaparral -- above the remodeling project -- is green and inviting. The prime season seems too brief up here in the northern Rockies. Bruce Keller's grand construction project is at the window framing stage. Despite a melancholy mood as the days grow shorter,  flowers are still gorgeous, the hay is mostly in, wildlife is abundant and the birds and bees are making whoopee while the squirrels salt away seeds and nuts for winter. IT HAS BEEN  a glorious, productive time here at High Chaparral in Stillwater County. An exciting, four-room addition begun July 1 is rounding the bend toward completion. Still, I must complain. Briefly. For years, I've begun my birthday celebration on the first day of the month of my birth.  So August 1 has signaled "day number one" of Cookie's natal celebration. Bighorn sheep are about to begin mating, here cavorting above Stillwater Mine. \ Cookie's birthday includes a half-dozen or more parties! The revels continue through Labor Day, but this year I'm short-changed!  Labor Day falls on Sept. 1, giving me only a month of celebrating.  Normally, I get a month and several days. SO I'M MAKING  the most of it. Please forgive the kvetching. The exercise girls threw me a party, and I turned it around a bit, creating a "very, merry unbirthday" party for them, a la the Mad Hatter's song in "Alice in Wonderland." I'm booked to play piano at Montana Jack's Aug. 22 and Aug. 31. And I've begun plans for a family reunion in August of 2015, a year from now, if you're out there, family and friends. Tuscany awaits -- coming soon here! COMING UP :  A swing through Tuscany in northern Italy, beautiful any time of year but particularly gorgeous as September approaches.     Our look at California's enticing coastal hotels -- all dog friendly -- plus travel by train and a delightful, all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. That's what we're up to. We're committed to making our travels fun, and passing along that enjoyment with tips and useful pointers. We hope you'll enjoy, learn and live and tune us in Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

WHERE SHOULD WE GO FOR A QUICK WEEKEND, OR WEEK LONG GET-AWAY? CONSIDER THIS LIVELY, ARTSY MONTANA TOWN Red Lodge, Montana, offers spectacular scenery and one of the world's most stunning drives. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYER PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN YOU want a couple days off, to laze and be reflective, Red Lodge, Montana, delivers. When you want a couple days off to party, frolic, be active and social, or take a wildlife-viewing hike, Red Lodge fills that bill, too. This lovely little mountain town can be sophisticated or laid back. You can dine elegantly with a nod to organic farming in a century-old brick hotel, or enjoy splendid pizza in a historic restaurant. You can shoot pool, play video poker, sing karaoke, dance and stay out late. You can find bargain rack shopping with 50 per cent discounts for name brand tops and jeans. ` Buy homemade sausage and delicious pastries at two shops next door to one another.  Both the meat market and bakery have legions of friends, both locals and tourists. Red Lodge, a mountain town, is nestled in a picturesque valley, and is a gateway to Yellowstone. I GREW  up in a small town not far from Red Lodge, and we drove from Columbus to Red Lodge often for sports events -- our teams were in the same conference -- to Girl Scout and Lions camps up the road, and to favorite family dining venues, Old Piney Dell always a family favorite through the generations. We loved the old Victorians which stand sentinel and show community pride. Red Lodge is famous for its beautifully restored Victorians. The fact that it is still there and thriving makes this reporter happy. Winters, took we took to the ski slopes, so it was a nostalgic afternoon when we drove recently up the six-mile road to the run of my youth.  While I mostly sat in the warming hut reading, siblings raced down the slopes and reveled in the excitement. RED LODGE  can deliver what you need -- excitement or calm. I needed the latter. If you're overwhelmed with activity and challenge, too many activities, projects and people, Red Lodge offers an opportunity to regroup and calm yourself.  The "Red Lodge Anxiety Main Street, Red Lodge, offers colorful marquees and neon. Cure" works for me every time. Wildlife is out the door, very near, if you base in Red Lodge. Here, mule  WE RECENTLY ventured to lovely Rock Creek Resort for its picturesque restaurant's fine dining at Old Piney Dell. We also visited Red Lodge Pizza Co., in a beautiful brick building.  During my childhood, Piney Dell was a favorite as was Natali's (now the Red Lodge Pizza building). I walked down memory lane gazing at vintage Natali's photos in the back room! Food is still great there, and at Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen and Wine Bar, Bogart's, Cafe Regis and Foster and Logan's Pub. The Pollard Hotel's elegant lodging, top restaurant and pub continue to be favorites.  Not far from downtown, you can see wildlife, including both mule deer and white tails -- for photographic adventurers. Our doggies, Nick and Nora, like Red Lodge  for its many dog friendly accommodations. For a fun time with kids, check out the Montana Candy Emporium, and Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary is a unique refuge for native animals found injured and rehabilitated in the center. RED LODGE  is a hot town in the winter when skiing begins, but it's a fine weekend get-away any time of year. Red Lodge Mountain is a quiet, no hype ski destination, growing in popularity with a national clientele. People love it for its skiing -- "pure and simple," the p.r. folks say. "No lift lines, no attitude, no big prices. Just great snow and great people." My favorite time is summer! But whichever your season, Red Lodge offersan authentic experience in Montana’s Rocky Mountains, summer or winter.  It's part of my history, and I love to share it.  Call   406 446-1718, the Red Lodge Chamber for more information. Or go to www.redlodge.com  or  www.redlodgemountain.com COMING NEXT:  Exciting news. Our long awaited novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," publishes next Wednesday on Amazon e-books. It's writers are Cookie, aka Christene Meyers, and William Jones. We'd appreciate brisk sales the first couple weeks, anticipating a paperback version: Here's a synopsis to get your literary juices flowing: War threatens to rearrange the world’s boundaries as an unlikely trio discovers love crossing all lines. A dashing bi-sexual American bank robber, beautiful French female sharpshooter and pioneering British film maker star in a tale of passion, vengeance and honor. “Lilian’s Last Dance,” begins in 1907, unfolding during a 10-year span, against a radical art movement, developing film industry and the Great War. Settings include New York, France, rural Montana, Peru and Hollywood. Real-life cameos include Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, D.W. Griffith, Conrad Hilton, Ty Cobb, Pablo Picasso, Charlie Chaplin, “Buffalo Bill” Cody, Gertrude Stein and more. Wednesday's blog will herald the official release. Remember to explore, learn and live and stay tuned for the book and a series of lively stories about the travels, passions and sidetracks in the making of the novel since its 1997 inception. At: www.whereiscookie.com   Please tell your friends!

The Fairfield Park Inn, Fairfield, Montana, offers pet-friendly digs near the lovely bird watching area of Freezeout Lake. PET FRIENDLY MONTANA INN NEAR BIRD WATCHING HAVEN OFFERS COMFORT, TOUR GUIDE Nick and Nora make themselves comfy at Fairfield Park Inn. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE WERE  on the trail of a reasonably priced get-away that would bring us close to Glacier National Park without taxing ourselves from Billings. My brother wanted to visit Freeze Out Lake -- I'd never heard of it. He enticed me with a little Blackfoot: "Sai yai ksi q tsi tau toh pi" or basically, "come see the geese." We weren't at the right season to spot the huge flocks that fly through in March -- upwards of 100,000. But we saw beautiful bird life, including many pelicans and blue heron. Huge grain silos are an imposing sight on Fairfield's main street. I found a delightful place in the Fairfield Park Inn, and what a grand time we had on my first Fairfield foray.  We needed a dog-friendly place for Yorkies Nick and Nora, and had the bonus of a savvy guide who knows and loves Fairfield. We were greeted at the inn by a boisterous Jack Russell terrier (is there any other kind of Jack Russell terrier?)  He wanted to play with Nick and Nora, and barked his greeting each time we left or returned. Our guys barked back -- and all was well. THEN ON TO  exploring Fairfield, Montana, called the "malting We observed this blue heron for a good half hour at Freezeout Lake.  barley capital of the world."  Budweiser built huge grain silos which cast an imposing shadow on the tidy main street. We were excited to be out of the car after nearly seven hours in the car, and the innkeepers John and Laurie welcomed us with a suite upstairs in the nicely restored old train depot that is now this charming bed and breakfast.  A beautiful memorial in Fairfield honors vets. The couple's affection for red, white and blue is carried out in the curtains, wall hangings, bed linens and mementos. John's storytelling prowess compliments Laurie's decorating skills.  He has spent decades in this rural farm community, situated on the picturesque eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountain Front between Choteau and Great Falls.  He knows Teton County and Freezeout Lake and told fine stories, including one of tundra swans who gather with the snow geese -- and can be aggressive if onlookers come close. John gives travel tips to inn guest, Rick Cosgriffe. DJ's Pizza was a happy restaurant find with excellent food. He steered us to a wonderful restaurant, DJ's Pizza (which served fabulous steaks and burgers, too), and he explained that Fairfield is smack in the middle of the "Golden Triangle" because of the beautiful sheen of the grain. Not only is Fairfield proud of its malting enterprise, but its farming reputation is time honored. Fairfield farms date back to 1862 when homesteading first opened, and became more abundant in 1909 when Congress enticed settlers with 320 acres of free land.  The Bureau of The "Antique Room" is filled with treasures from the family. Reclamation's Sun River Canyon and water for irrigation attracted more settlers with the welcome delivery of water.  Gibson was the main storage dam, constructed in the Depression days of 1926-29. Today's Fairfield receives water for 83,000 acres surrounding the community. Besides beautiful bird life -- close-up pelican and blue heron sightings --  we played a bit in the casinos.  There are three, and we contributed to Fairfield's economy. Bear and bird spotters come to Fairfield and nearby Glacier to photograph wildlife.  Visitors are from all over the U.S., and many foreign countries.   BESIDES  the bounty of birders who sell out the Fairfield Park Inn in March, Feezeout Lake attracts winter ice boaters, summer boaters and fall hunters. Soon, visitors to nearby Sun River Canyon will be watching bighorn sheep battle for leadership of one of the largest herds in the country.  For six or seven months of the year, Fairfield shows off its nine hole golf course with dramatic vistas of the Rocky Mountain Front. The inn is as much a draw as the scenery. Together, they're a pair to draw to! You'll enjoy large comfy rooms on two floors of a one-time train depot. We booked a two-bedroom suite, filled with family heirlooms, indulging in furnished breakfast before a short trip to Glacier! Actors Bruce Turk and Michael Santo are perfectly cast and artfully directed in "Freud's Last Session," about a meeting between Freud (Santo) and writer C.S. Lewis (Turk). COMING SOON:   Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier is a wonderful base for exploring Glacier and photographing bears in the wild. And at North Coast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach, Calif., a brilliant play makes its San Diego debut. The storyline features Sigmund Freud and C.S. Lewis engaging in a lively and emotional intellectual debate during the famed psychiatrist's final days. Bravos and a critique coming for "Freud's Last Session," up through Nov. 9.  For a fresh look at travel and the arts, visit us Wednesdays and weekends at:  www.whereiscookie.com

BEARS ON THE WALLS, BEARS IN THE WOODS AT CHARMING LITTLE INN Arriving at the end of a snow storm, our travelers found Dancing Bears Inn a welcoming respite -- with tasty treats!  East Glacier's Dancing Bears Inn is a lovely base for Keller's exploration of nearby wonders in Glacier National Park    If you go down to the woods today You're sure of a big surprise. If you go down to the woods today You'd better go in disguise! For every bear that ever there was Will gather there for certain, because Today's the day the Teddy Bears  have their picnic. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER All roads point to Dancing Bears Inn. TODAY'S THE DAY  the teddy bears have their picnic! Remember the old song we sang as children? Written in a menacing minor key, it sounds a bit like Charles Gounod's "Alfred Hitchcock" theme. But there are no minor keys at Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, where every day is a picnic! It's all sunny side up! An all-day buffet of organic treats invites hotel guests to snack between hikes, enjoy a hot or cold beverage -- including beer one of the evenings we visited -- and plan the day's activities thanks to knowledgeable hotel managers. Kim Stevens and her co-manager C.J. are proprietors of this delightful find! They love what they do and it shows. We joined the two of them, and their hotel bears (photos, drawings and even a bear shower curtain)  -- along with a gorgeous grizzly bear who prowled nearby -- for a two-day picnic of our own. Our headquarters, the Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, is a convenient Glacier base in the Two Medicine Valley of this northern Montana park. Kim Stevens, at the computer, and Cookie, plan the day's activities. Tasty organic snacks are available for guests all day long at the inn. THE MOTE L is small and welcoming, with only 15 rooms. And, a must for us, several of the rooms are pet friendly. The two managers are hands on, greeting guests at check-in, and making certain they feel welcome. They even put a make-shift walkway down to help us navigate melting snow. And Stevens escorted us to our rooms to make certain the heat was on and we had all we needed to be comfortable. The rooms are quiet and nicely decorated. Nothing fancy, but clean, inviting digs (bear motif of course) and spacious. It's not unusual to have a continental breakfast included in the room price, but that's usually rudimentary: toast, cereal, juice, maybe an orange or banana. Just a hop, skip and stroll from Dancing Bears, Serrano's Mexican Restaurant in East Glacier serves tasty Southwest and Mexican fare and is always packed. Dancing Bear's all day "breakfast" is a real exception, and truly the star in the crown of a Dancing Bears stay. THE BEAR'S BREAKFAST  is more like a European morning buffet than an American motel offering.  Bagels, granola, yogurt, juices, and a treats such as breakfast burritos and English muffin sandwiches -- the Bear's own version of MacDonald's classic. Their "Bear MacMuffin" and more make for real value. "We like to have goodies for people all day, when they come back from a day of hiking or a long drive," Stevens said. "It's a nice touch because the owner really cares that people have a memorable, enjoyable time and get what they want for snacks." That, of course, is smart marketing and encourages return business. WE ALSO  found  a couple fun dinner eateries, suggestions of the inn managers.  Our favorite was Serrano's, a lively Mexican place with terrific, zesty Southwest cuisine. Specialties include a tasty The picturesque Two Medicine area is just minutes from Dancing Bears Inn. red snapper and a flavorful strip steak. Appetizers, margaritas and a delicious flan-like dessert were happily and efficiently served.  EXPLORING  Glacier again, we learned that Lewis and Clark were very near where we were based, on the east side of the Rockies.  They were so close to Marias Pass they could have reached it in an hour or so.  But they couldn't see it for the clouds.  Surely, had they found it, their journey over the mountains would have been easier! We made no attempt to see all of Glacier, a park we grew up with as native Montanans. Our advice to Glacier travelers with only a couple days is to base at one of the hubs -- West Glacier, St. Mary, Many Glacier, or farther north, across the Canadian border, in Waterton Park. CONCENTRATING  on a smaller area -- no farther than 75 to 100 miles from your hotel -- gives time to really take in your area.  Besides the grizzly, we noticed beautifully changing autumn colors, beargrass, flowers and snow on the same mountains which sheltered native people for millennia. Bruce Turk and Michael Santo square off in "Freud's Last  Session," an ambitious play in its San Diego debut to Nov. 9. COMING SOON : Two kinds of drama -- the traditional meaning -- inside a theater -- and drama in the wilds of nature. We can barely wait to share our grizzly sighting.  We watched with other charmed tourists, for more than 90 minutes as a grizzly ate, drank and made merry before our eyes, about 40 yards away! But before bears, we're excited about a San Diego premier, "Freud's Last Session," at North Coast Rep. Imagine a meeting between these two: an avowed atheist -- Sigmund Freud -- and a onetime atheist, now a believer -- writer C. S. Lewis. Their conversation about life, religion and the fates is thrilling, and the two actors playing the great thinkers are terrific. We try for a fresh take on art, travel, theater, music and life. Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

IF YOU HAVE ONLY A BRIEF TIME, MAKE EVERY ROMAN MINUTE COUNT BY HIRING A TOUR GUIDE Rome's Trevi Fountain has been drained and fenced off, and a $3 million bridge project financed by Fendi, the big name fashion house, is underway with a renovation project to allow visitors to view the famed fountain from above! The Colosseum is one of Rome's most popular attractions. A private guide will give you time to enjoy it, ask questions and never be rushed. Motorcycles are a part of Rome culture. A tour guide explains the fascination. Cookie and expert guide Lucilla Favino pause near the Commons of Old Rome. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE ALL KNOW  the cliche, "Rome wasn't built in a day." But if you only have a day or two in one of the great cities of the world, you can pack a lot of wallop into your time, with planning and a private guide. We recommend hiring a guide, and you won't find any better than Lucilla Favino, a native Roman who loves her city and knows its history as well as any university professor. That's because she has passed the rigorous five-hour guide test and has a doctorate in archeology. "Old Rome" features ruins where Plato and others strolled, conversed and lectured. Monuments, plazas, history at every turn is yours when you visit Rome. We've spent times on three different trips with Lucilla, including one six-hour personalized tour which brought us into parts of Rome we'd not seen on a half-dozen previous visits. It also included the standard "big attractions" -- which never bore. LUCILLA'S BRILLIANCE  in her chosen profession -- she is a true expert in Roman history -- is steeped in versatility and depth. Besides her vast knowledge and engaging storytelling ability, she has a gift for time management.  We never felt rushed under her touring of the Eternal City, but we saw more in each of our three days with her than we'd seen in days of touring by ourselves. A good guide knows the history of every piazza in Rome. Instead of being crammed in a long bus, or walking with a dangling earphone with the guide a block ahead, you'll stroll arm-in-arm with her, walking where Caesar and Aristotle strolled, staring up at the ceiling Michaelangelo painted on his back high atop a ladder, listening to your guide's commentary. Picture the shouts of the crowd as lions roared at the doomed prisoners in the Colosseum. Lucilla had stories!  Remember to visit the famed Trevi Fountain, with the coin toss so you are sure to return. (Even though it's under restoration, you can still toss a lucky coin in a revised pool while Lucilla explains the restoration and the innovative skybridge coming, above it.) Keller captured this classic Roman look on our recent trip to a favorite city. NO CITY  on earth can compare to Rome. And no guide can compare to Lucilla.  Her love of history is enhanced by her devotion to Rome's art.  She points out architectural details one might miss, and she stops at the shops to indulge her penchant for chocolate, which we share! Romans love their sweets -- here a shop window of wonders! With our private guide, Lucilla, we tried some samples. With her pleasant and engaging commentary, you'll walk the same streets the ancients walked and view some streets of ancient Rome several layers beneath today's streets. Our visit to "Old Rome" truly captured the feeling of life then!  With Lucilla, we also visited and toured the Vatican, the smallest independent nation on earth, then we walked the stylish shopping streets to see how modern Romans live alongside all the historic splendor. AS YOU STROLL the one-time epicenter of the Roman Empire, gazing over the largest Roman amphitheater, you might decide to book Lucilla to see the Pope give his weekly address in St. Peter’s Square.  She'll set it up! She'll also help you test your resolve at the Mouth of Truth, learn to fight like a gladiator, and sample a pizza to see what sets Roman pizza apart from the other pizza of the world. Few cities entertain as Rome does but a good guide helps keep Rome from being overwhelming.  Lucilla knows how to navigate its fast-paced, varied options. She gives time to ponder - and takes breaks to sample the city’s famous wine, coffee and gelato.  "I love my city," she says.  "I love to answer the questions, to stop when someone shows particular interest in a place.  If someone is tired, I can sense it.  Then we go sit and have a cappuccino and I answer a question or tell a story."   WE RECOMMEND Lucilla, for a guide with intelligence, a sense of fun and a love of her native city.  Her contact information is: Lucilla Paola Favino,  (+39)338.9221760  (Rome phone), or lucilla.euroacademy@gmail.com Red Lodge, Montana, is a picturesque mountain town, with beauty in all four seasons. COMING UP:  From Rome to Red Lodge!  What makes this picturesque little mountain town in www.whereiscookie.com Montana so darned much fun?  Whether you're looking forward to ski season or planning a trip to Yellowstone Park next summer, have a look at Red Lodge with its lively eateries, fine lodging, shops, wildlife and more.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at arts, travel and life: www.whereiscookie.com

Falling into disrepair, there is still beauty in the abandoned Castle buildings. Buildings were beautifully built, apparently intended to be home for many years, in Castle, Montana. A visit to Castle, Montana, opens doors to Montana's colorful past. 'CASTLE' ONCE FIT FOR A KING NOW FADES INTO HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   Castle is no ordinary ghost town.  It was built to last. MY BROTHER , Rick, likes to take the road less traveled. His last trek took us to the abandoned town of Castle in north-central Montana. Once, years ago, dozens of families lived in this quiet valley not far from White Sulphur Springs. Now, only ghosts inhabit the hills, dales and empty homes of Castle, Montana. Cookie pauses with Nora, on the trail to find Castle, in very rural Montana. My intrepid brother took us on a detour on our way back from Glacier Park and we tromped around the now deserted town, located on private farm land. A couple of trucks slowed down on the dirt and gravel road to eye us.  But they passed on by with a friendly wave, after seeing we were only taking photos.  We hoped we were not being arrested for trespassing! Signs lead travelers here, even though it is on private property. Here's a bit of history about this beautiful area: CASTLE BECAME  a map dot in 1884, when the North Carolina Mine opened, according to a U.S. Forest Service interpretive sign. Calamity Jane, it is said, lived briefly in Castle. Miners were drawn by the lure of silver ore and by 1891, Castle hosted 991 mining claims and was an incorporated town with several thousand inhabitants. Its most colorful inhabitant was Calamity Jane, who lived there briefly when she entertained the idea of opening a restaurant and becoming a lady! That endeavor didn't pan out. Today, ghost town lovers may drive down the road to the deserted town, being careful to respect that it is indeed now private land. IT'S TOUCHING to wander about, examining the vestiges of a time when families moved in, building multi-story homes with tall bay windows, adding decorative shingles and other embellishments.  Some of the homes sport crumbling but once spacious porches on the town's grassy hill, nestled along a cool stream, snuggling up against the timber line. This beautiful archway could have been a private garden, or sanctuary.  Businesses popped up along Main Street - now a Meagher County road - including Baker's General Store and Post Office, Kidd's Furniture Store, Minnie's Sporting House and Berg's Meat Market.  There's an interesting archway just inside the town.  One wonders if that were someone's special garden, or a place to meditate and sing Sunday hymns surrounded by gorgeous fir trees. I can picture an organ inside and glorious acoustics for chorale music! Will this building be here much longer? ABOUT A  dozen buildings remain in Castle, their ghostly appearances contrasted by    beautiful wildflowers. Wildlife scamper around the ruins, and we saw deer, elk and squirrels. I even spied a prairie dog suning lazily on a disintegrating rooftop. Although the buildings appear ready to fall if someone sneezes in their direction, the quality of the construction indicates people planned on staying here long-term. Rome's Colosseum is like no other place on Earth -- vast, artful, full of history. Alas, when the boom fizzled, this Castle -- once a golden coach -- became a pumpkin again! COMING UP:  Ah, Rome.  City of romance, handsome men and women, terrific food, cheap wine and history, history, history at every turn. If you have only a couple of days, consider hiring a private guide.  We've done it the last few trips and we recommend it.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at travel, the arts and life. www.whereiscookie.com

Commodore Everette Hoard welcomes the public aboard the Queen Mary this Friday for an 80th birthday party. HAIL AND LONG LIVE THE LOVELY QUEEN MARY Guests still check in as they did decades ago, in a glamorous lobby. Aboard the Queen Mary, a sea gull may be attending Friday's party!  HISTORIC OCEAN LINER HAS PROUD HISTORY, IMPRESSIVE ROSTER OF LINER-LOVING CELEBRITIES                                                                                               STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE OF  the world's great ocean liners is having a big birthday. And we're all invited. Some anniversary celebrants will don period togs to salute Queen Mary's 80th! As the Queen Mary turns 80 Friday, I remember a long ago voyage with now departed loved ones. A view from the cabin enjoyed during a recent visit by our writers.  And I'm thinking of the thousands of celebrities, soldiers, immigrants and ocean lovers she carried across the seas.  Ah, the movie stars and diplomats who wined and dined in her hallowed halls and banquet rooms! DURING  Friday's party, Commodore Everette Hoard will read Royal Letters, including one from Queen Elizabeth II. Then he'll officiate at the ceremonial cutting of the Queen Mary's 80th Anniversary Cake, a quarter-ton replica of the venerable ship. Cake   all around! TV celebrity baker, Jose Barajas created the spectacular cake which is 15 feet long. Queen Mary christened the Queen Mary in 1934. We had the good fortune not long ago to spend several days on her, in Long Beach, California, where she's been a hotel since her 1967 retirement. How I'd love to be there Friday. But I'll savor memories of stepping three times on her, including once long ago, when she still sailed the oceans blue. THE QUEEN  Mary was christened by Queen Mary, on Sept. 26, 1934 at the John Brown Shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland.  With her was King George V, but it was the Queen who, by tradition, launched the magnificent ship. Champagne flowed as it will on her 80th, marching bands saluted and plenty of hoopla carried on into the night, before a crowd of more than 200,000.   She soon became the transatlantic crossing vessel of choice for dignitaries, celebrities and thousands of immigrants. Winston Churchill and his wife Clementine loved the Queen Mary and often sailed on her.  The restaurant's signature upscale restaurant is a popular celebration venue for Long Beach residents and worldwide visitors. I've had the good fortune to play Sir Winston's beautiful piano and mingle with the locals who dress up in vintage costumes to remember and briefly capture a bygone era. Other celebs who regularly crossed on her: Bob Hope, Fred Astaire and the Windsors.  Audrey Hepburn had her honeymoon aboard the liner.  The Queen Mary will light up for a day long public celebration Friday. QUEEN MARY --  born during the Great Depression -- grew into the biggest, fastest and most popular ocean liner in the world. She is constructed with 10 million rivets and was innovative at the time, with a waterline length of 1,004 feet (longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall!)  During World War II, she was painted grey and served as the Allies’ largest and fastest troop carrier. Later, she resumed her place as a world-class ocean liner completing 1,100-plus transatlantic voyages before retiring to Long Beach in 1967. AS THE  beloved ocean liner turns 80 on Friday, the public is invited to join a ship-wide celebration. The Queen opens her gangways and ballrooms, decks and salons, attractions and eateries to a daylong celebration. Admission is free for the party, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., along with discounted parking. Free admission and discounts on board will mark Friday's Queen Mary party. ship tours and attractions. All are welcome, especially Long Beach residents and families. Commemorations will include the reading of letters by King George V at the ship's launch on Sept. 26, 1934, and a congratulatory message from the current top royal, Queen Elizabeth II. The anniversary will feature a surprise announcement, described by ship officials as "a forward-looking plan inspired by the ship's eight-decades of public life and influence on maritime commerce."  It's top secret -- could be a major renovation, or who knows?  But the Queen promises to be around for a good long while.  Long live my favorite Queen! The Tetons in autumn  are a sight to behold -- we bring them to you soon! COMING SOON:  Livingston, Montana's Murray Hotel has hosted celebrities and rock singers,  movie stars, politicians and even a Scandinavian Queen.  What makes this 1904 hotel so appealing 110 years after it was built? And a look at Jackson, Wyo., and the Tetons, for a bonanza of autumn scenery, plus a dinner theater to tip your hat to, the Jackson Hole Playhouse! We strive for a sense of fun and play in these Wednesday and weekend posts. Explore, learn and live and tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com

HISTORIC HOTEL LURES VACATIONERS FOR A DAY, A WEEK OR A FINE MEAL The venerable Pollard, with the year's first snow, welcomes visitors from around the world.  Below, a sampling of its atmosphere, where diners sip cocktails, and await the feast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER RED LODGE  – Since the Pollard Hotel began a serious spiffing up more than a decade ago,  its inviting atmosphere continues to lure vacationers, locals and regulars for fine food and a stay. The delightful restaurant has continued to improve and innovate, often acting as the drawing card for an overnight  stay. The stately  Pollard Hotel was the first brick building  constructed in the mining town of Red Lodge, Montana, Its doors opened with fanfare in 1893.  Through the years, the menu has evolved from soups, sandwiches and steaks to an upscale medley of bistro offerings. The hotel has undergone major restoration and welcomes with the same old fashioned hospitality that charmed guests more than a century ago. Nick and Nora enjoy the ambiance of the Pollard. Some dog friendly rooms are available, booked in advance.       VINTAGE ONE  Bistro in the historic venue presents a thoughtfully selected menu of appetizers, soups, salads and entrees – artfully arranged on the plate.   We've enjoyed tasty tasty bison tenderloin, mouth-watering prime rib stroganoff and a satisfying meatloaf made of elk. The nod to wild game is a thoughtful addition.   A pleasing  maple salmon entrée features roasted veggies and bacon and corn fritters. Both gluten free and all-vegetarian entrees -- maybe pesto with pine nuts -- are offered. Desserts are delectable, and change daily.           BREAKFAST  is a treat --  savory salmon and brie eggs benedict, a filling breakfast burrioto with chorizo and homemade salsa, and the steak and eggs perfectly cooked.    The much loved gathering place has a guest roster to behold: politicians, actors and other personalities including William Jennings Bryan, famed silver-tongued orator; General Miles, the Indian fighter; copper kings William and Marcus Daly, scout Liver Eatin' Johnston and the raucous Calamity Jane. Management has changed several times, but the promise to deliver “continuous improvement” remains constant. Like the Bistro, with its big-city appeal, the Pollard aims for its rooms to attract diners with the same flair and excellence. The boutique hotel ambiance includes comfy beds, beautiful lighting, a book trade shelf and other nice touches.  The taco special is delightful, and all Pollard's plates are served with flair.             THE POLLARD is relaxing and decorated with attractive paintings, plants and comfortable chairs to encourage lingering at either end of the day. There’s plenty to catch the eye. The hotel also proudly shows off Charles Ringer mobiles and sculpture, paintings drawn from the nearby natural world and historic photos. Fine woodwork and first-class appointments encourage conversation with a cup of coffee or cocktail in the “History Room” study or around the fireplace in the rear gallery.  Some of the rooms look out from balconies on the rear gallery and these rooms are our favorites. Hiking near Red Lodge, fall is in the air, and the first reds, golds and purples are awaiting. Next up, the song that says autumn, and other artful nods to the season.         IF AFTER a long day of exploring Red Lodge and the nearby forest, you don't want a fancy dinner, you needn't leave the hotel.  The Pollard’s Pub offers top regional jazz acts and a fun bar-fare menu with satisfying gems such as hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and deep fried!  It goes well with regional beers or a glass of wine. Friend Brad Smith was up at dawn to watch this black bear climb into the open garage and eat his fill of Natural Balance dog food!   The Pollard remains true to its vision of excellence and service, dating back  more than a century ago when it hosted faithful locals along with Indian scouts and copper kings, touring actors and politicians.  The bistro is a delightful get-away setting for a special dinner or breakfast.  And the Pub is the ticket for a spontaneous night on the town. COMING UP : The bear facts.  Guess who's coming to dinner at High Chaparral? We'll share some recent bear and deer photos with our ode to the wild. Then autumn leaves, so poignantly described in "September Song," prompt Cookie's ode to the beauty of the changing colors and the "temporary melancholia," as her grandmother called it. Fall -- that beautiful season.  We aim for a fresh look at nature, travel and adventure, posting Wednesdays and weekends at www. whereiscookie. com

AUTUMN COMES TO THE NORTHERN ROCKIES OFFERING SPLENDID PHOTOS, SUNNY HIKING, FROST ON THE PUMPKIN BUT WARMTH IN OUR HEARTS  At top, the Tetons are in full fall glory and in the Beartooths to the north, photographer Rick Cosgriffe takes aim on autumn. AUTUMN LEAVES BEGIN TO FALL, DAYS GROW SHORTER,  SHUTTERBUGS TAKE AIM ON THE GLORIOUS CHANGING SEASON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The road to High Chaparral, north of Nye, awaits fall's golden touch. IF, AS the great poet T. S. Elliot said, "April is the cruelest month" then September is the kindest.  Days are still long and leisurely, with cool mornings and evenings  accented by hours of dappled sunlight and moon beams. The critters are on the move -- hummingbirds are taking their last gulps of nectar before heading south for hundreds and thousands of miles. A hike to Sioux Charlie finds autumn cloaking the source of the Stillwater. Woodpeckers and eagles, camouflaged by the density of summer foliage, are more visible on the telephone poles and branches. A woodpecker finds a snack, to help him through winter. HIKING OUR parks and national forests is a rare pleasure because the summer hoards have vanished. Gardens produce zucchini the size of footballs. Corn, pears, plums and apples are sweetened by frost. It's my favorite time in the northern Rockies, probably because I'm a hopeless romantic, and there's nothing like fall to bring out the romantic. I'VE RETURNED  to my favorite poets -- looking for poems celebrating the fall season, I've found classics by William Shakespeare, William Blake, John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Emily Dickinson and John Clare. Their poems speak to the gorgeous contrasts in color celebrated by painters over the centuries:  brilliant purples, crimsons, oranges, scarlets, golds as the green fades.  Add one of those favorite painterly colors:  cadmium, a word I've always loved.  With colors so bold and inspiring, why do we feel a bit sad, "afflicted with melancholia," as my grandmother Olive used to say? Sunflowers and crab apples at High Chaparral -- the night before the first freeze. Perhaps we're reminded of our own mortality, and brief spin on glorious planet Earth. WHEN I TRY  to outrun my demons, I turn to nature. It's difficult to be too depressed in this kind of beauty.  But because the days are growing shorter, I also turn to Kurt Weill and Maxwell Anderson and their eloquent "September Song," sung memorably by Weill's wife, Lotte Lenya.   "Oh, it's a long, long while from May to December, but the days grow short when you reach September. When the autumn weather turns the leaves to flame, One hasn't got time for the waiting game." DESPITE  the backdrop of increasingly dreary gray, nature takes on a brilliance and energy.  Just like my Irish gran Olive before she passed away and we played two-handed Mozart and ragtime on the piano. Cookie enjoys the last sunflowers, the night before frost. The harvest moon last week was stellar -- showering its glitter on the aspen below our bedroom window, bathing the berm in a halo of silver light.  Mornings are gorgeous -- clouds disappear like fairy dust. The showers come and go, and  thunder sounds like the sputters of a campfire. SO WITH  temperatures dropping, one spends more time by the fire -- safe and warm inside -- a good time to read poetry, or play that bittersweet "September Song." "Oh the days dwindle down to a precious few, September, November...... and these precious days I'll spend with you..... And the wine dwindles down to a precious brew...these few vintage years I'll spend with you, these precious years I'll spend with you." Queen Mary turns 80 years old later this month; everyone's invited! COMING SOON :   We're on the road again, enjoying this changing season and its gorgeous landscape. Stay tuned for tips on fun digs, eats and theater in Jackson Hole and Teton Village, and a look at real live cowboys moving their cattle to winter pasture. Plus Wapiti Valley near Cody, and Livingston's historic Murray Hotel. Plus the beloved Queen Mary celebrates 80 years with a bang-up party in Long Beach. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com xxx

This Montana visitor may be a grizzly -- we can't quite see a hump. Several neighbors spotted him  recently. The nearby Nye Church  in Stillwater County, has had grizzlies in the yard and a grizzly is meandering the West Fork this week. HIGH CHAPARRAL, MONTANA, ATTRACTS WILD LIFE: LIONS (NO TIGERS), & BOUNTY OF BEARS AND DEER This bear is definitely a grizzly, as evidenced by the hump. He was photographed near Lake Louise in Canada. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE YORKIES  survived the bear last night! This bear in a neighbor's yard in rural Montana walked up on the porch! He came very close to the place, drawn by the scent of the apples.  He'd visited the night before but only to snack -- he'd feasted on the nearby plum tree so the apples were dessert.  But bears remember and we knew he'd return.  So we'd stripped the tree in the moonlight before retiring. We left Mr. Bear three dozen apples as a token of friendship and apology for turning his feast into an appetizer plate. We wouldn't mind sharing the apples, but in climbing the tree to reach the fruit, bears do tremendous damage to the boughs.  We've had to whack away at damaged fruit trees until they resemble the Monty Python "mere flesh wound" sketch. The regal mountain lion -- we've spotted him and his cousins in the Sonoran desert of Arizona and several times at High Chaparral in Montana. IT'S THRILLING   to be privileged to watch gorgeous creatures this close to our home and "civilized" life. A writer friend cautions me regularly on the necessity of bear spray, but I've never purchased it and think my hands would be too This black bear, colored brown lacks the distinctive grizzly hump.  He wandered up the lawn past the house.  shaky to press the nozzle. We do wear bear bells, though, on hikes. NICK, THE  male Yorkie, wants to take the bears on.  He once chased -- and ran up the back of -- a grizzly who was drinking at the spring above the house. The bear tossed him off his back, growled and left Nick in the chokecherries.  Fortunately he suffered only scratches, from the bushes! (Kind bear.) Whenever Nick sees a bear, he runs to the door and commences growling as if to connect in some primordial fashion. Both mule deer and white tails are frequent visitors and diners at High Chap. Nora has no interest.  She takes to her fluffy red down bed, yawns, stretches, notices the Greenie her brother was too excited to touch, and looks at him disdainfully as she eats his treat. He obsesses. She capitalizes. BEING FEMALE,  Nora has a sound sense of self preservation! (Avoid grizzly bears, sleep often, eat when food is available.) Recent sightings, ignored by Nora: Large bear at the kitchen window while I was cooking. Bears (mom and 2 cubs) while workers were here. Bear on the road by the house.  Bear in our garden. Bear on the roof! (We heard and saw him.)   WE SEE MANY  deer here at High Chap, and we've five times spotted mountain lions. Friend Brad  Smith snapped this photo of a bear on our garage roof, as he headed for a bag of pricey dog food!   One circled the house a few winters ago, and bounced against a window, terrifying our sleeping cat, Nellie, who was safe inside on an Oriental carpet beneath the window.  Another time, we pulled into the driveway at High Chaparral.  The moonlight spotlighted a large mountain lion. We dimmed the car lights and watched him for 15 minutes as he ate the remains of a rabbit. We found cat skat on the roof last week! Autumn splendor comes to Yellowstone National Park -- next up: fall colors. DON'T WORRY , friends. We're safe and very, "beary" careful. With plenty of respect and awe! COMING SOON : We salute at bittersweet autumn in the Beartooths, then we and have a few pointers for getting up close and personal with wildlife -- attracting them and learning what to look for. We try to find fun and offbeat pleasures in our travels and photos. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cody's historic main street is showy. Old west charm, world class museum, bar hopping, great food, fun hotels and treats of the natural world await STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CODY IS  the type of town that makes you believe in time travel. Except for the cars, cell phones and contemporary clothing in the store windows, you could be visiting this authentic western town a century ago. Cody's proximity to rivers, and changing autumn colors makes it appealing. The Irma's famous bar. Stop in for a drink at the Irma Hotel, and admire the bar as you sip.  It's among Cody's treasures, an ornate and beautifully preserved Buffalo Bill named Cody after himself, the Irma after his daughter. The Irma Hotel, above and left, is well known for its ambiance..   gift from England's Queen Victoria.  It was a hefty acknowledgment of her appreciation for Buffalo Bill Cody, who brought his Wild West show across the Atlantic. Buffalo Bill's legacy remains in Cody, Wyoming, east gateway to Yellowstone National Park, as do the natural wonders and wildlife that make a visit to Cody, Wyoming so exciting. Cody's residential area above town sports lovely yards and native flora. THE BUFFALO BILL  Historical Center, whose name changed to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, is a stunning complex of five museums and a research library featuring art and artifacts of the American West.  It's Cody's pride and joy and visitors come from around the world to enjoy an unparalleled collection of western art, guns, Plains Indian lifestyle and much more. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center has had a recent name change, and is still attracting people from all over the world. THE FIVE  excellent museums are the namesake Buffalo Bill Museum, dedicated to his life and legendary touring western show; Whitney Gallery of Western Art, including world class artwork portraying both the beauty and myths of the West; Plains Indian Museum, with its insights into Native American culture; Cody Firearms Museum, with thousands of guns and weapons, and the Draper Museum of Natural History with hands on natural world exhibits to help us understand our environment and Yellowstone's own particular ecosystem. The Sunlight Basin and its wonderful views and vistas attracts many people who are visiting nearby Cody, Wyo. If you're in the vicinity of Cody, Powell or Meeteetse, you'll also enjoy abundant outdoor recreation opportunities -- hunting, fishing, golf, river rafting, rock and ice climbing, hiking, mountain biking and camping. WHAT MOST  of us native westerners like about Cody is its easy going charm. People still greet one another on the street.  Yet despite its casual and laid back feeling, upscale galleries sell world class art. Eateries and nightspots offer a wowing array  -- from simple fare to more elaborate meals. Walk down main street -- you'll find barbecue, fried chicken, salads, wraps, Asian and even vegetarian fare. Cody has changed since my first visits as a kid in the late 1950s! THE CODY  Trolley takes you around town to the most interesting spots, including the museum.  A tour guide dresses as sharpshooter Annie Oakley. We're heading to Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway next. There's music and a regular cowboy revue, fishing pointers and guided tours of the rivers -- check out North Fork Anglers. Most of all, nature abounds, as close-up and friendly as Cody herself! COMING UP:  If  you've enjoyed Cody's pleasures, you'll enjoy the beauty of the nearby Sunlight Basin and historic Chief Joseph Highway. These are a road tripper's dreams -- wild heights, sublime scenery and gorgeous places to picnic or unwind and take in the clouds. Check us out Wednesdays and weekends, when we strive to imbue travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live at: www.whereiscookie.com

The aptly named Sunlight Basin is aglow in autumn as the colors change and the air grows crisp and cool.  CHIEF JOSEPH HIGHWAY PROVIDES THRILLS, PANORAMIC VIEW OF SUNLIGHT BASIN  AFTER CLIMB UP SPECTACULAR BEARTOOTH PASS Keller and Nick and Nora pause for a picnic with view near Sunlight Bridge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE  you'd never been to the northern Rockies. What would you expect? Stunning mountains, clouds out of a Hallmark card display, guest ranches that remind of the 1950s TV shows. It's all there in the wonders of the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, which offers motorists unforgettable scenery and an opportunity to commune with nature from a bird's eye view. WE TOOK two of the country's most beautiful drives in a three-day period. Chief Joseph, a great Nez Perce peace maker, gave the highway its name. The Bear's Tooth, directly left of center, gives the famed highway its name. FIRST, UP  the Beartooth Pass with its wondrous and harrowing hairpin turns, glaciers -- even in August -- and pristine lakes and mountain streams. Low hanging clouds dapple the horizon in Sunlight Basin. Then after a couple days R&R at Hunter Park Ranch, we headed out the  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway with its eye-popping bridge. The Beartooth road, called by the late CBS newsman Charles Kuralt, "the most beautiful drive in America," is known ats the Beartooth Scenic Highway.  Lakes, granite peaks and the famed "Bear's Tooth," from which the mountain range and then the highway took their names. Sunlight Bridge over sunlight Creek on the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway offers a breathtaking view into the gorge. Then Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Highway is Wyoming Highway 296. Guide books refer to it as the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway.  Named after the great Nez Perce Indian leader, it follows the route the chief took in 1877 when he led his people out of Yellowstone National Park and into Montana.  Their goal was to flee the U.S. Cavalry and escape into Canada.  The great chief surrendered to U.S. General Nelson A. Miles in the Bear Paw mountains of northern Montana. His eloquent speech has been often quoted: "Hear me, my chiefs:  My heart is sick and sad.  From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."   This beautiful route honors Joseph as it winds through the Shoshone National Forest and Absaroka Mountains, finally passing through the unfortunately named Dead Indian Pass. The Pollard Hotel features a lively menu befitting its history. MANY PEOPLE  like to take the Beartooth Pass from Red Lodge, stay a few days in Cooke City, then wend a leisurely way out the Chief Joseph Highway.  We went from Hunter Peak Ranch into Cody, then back out the Chief Joseph route and on back to our corner of the Beartooths through Bridger and into Rockvale near Laurel, back to Absarokee and on home up the West Fork of the Stillwater.  A breathtaking few days of   spectacular autumn-colored scenery.  THE 46 MILES  of the Chief Joseph drive includes one of the most awesome bridges in this part of the country.  Both cars and pedestrians can transit the bridge, with very little separation between the two lanes.  I passed on walking across, owing to lifelong vertigo, but Keller and the Yorkies rose to the occasion. And returned safely while I gazed at the wonders -- along with a dozen view-inspired motorcyclists.  COMING UP:   We continue our autumn odyssey with a look at Red Lodge and the Pollard Hotel, where a menu fit for kings and cowboys, royals and rodeo queens awaits. We infuse our travelogues with a sense of fun and adventure and hope that conveys itself to you! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com