Thursday, November 7, 2024

Book a terrific time on a fun, educational tuk tuk tour in Lisbon



Enjoying a tuk tuk ride in Lisbon, from left, Bruce Keller, Jane Milder, driver Thomas Neves,
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Rick Cosgriffe.  All aboard for a fun tour of this lovely Portuguese city.
 

TOURING LISBON BY TUK TUK YIELDS HISTORY, STORIES, FRESH AIR, FUN TIME

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

Lisbon's seven hills stretch from the city center to the sea,
with architecture typical of one of the world's great cities

WE LOVE LISBON! It's a favorite European city. So we wanted to show off "our town" to my brother Rick and his partner Jane during our two weeks together in southern Europe.

We did it in style, by tuk-tuk, that time honored transportation mode invented in 1879 and offering close-up views along with a few fun bumps.

LISBON OFFERS a wealth of architectural wonders and sea views making it a perfect city to explore by this three-wheeled cart, originally pulled by a person. My dad told lively stories of traveling by  rickshaw during his Army days in post WWII China.  He became fast friends with his trusty driver, as we have with Tomas Neves, who has shown us around his native city several times.

Miradouro das Portas do Sol is Lisbon's most
 photographed wiewpoint, a central location
near the cathedral and castle. Here Rick and  
Jane enjoy the view as we photograph them.

OUR FAVORITE Lisbon tuk-tuk is electric and driven -- not pulled -- by the amiable Tomas, and manufactured in an Amsterdam factory, where most licensed electric auto-tuk tuks or rickshaws originate. There are many types of tuk-tuk tours offered by Tomas and a host of other outfits. 

There are over 500 tuk-tuks in Lisbon, offering a range of tours from gardens to museums.  Enthusiasts may concentrate on the oldest part of the city, the Alfama, or the narrow lanes of  residential districts. One may also concentrate on Lisbon Castle and other popular destinations including Lisbon's famous Cathedral,  the Convento da Graça, the National Pantheon, Jardim São Pedro de Alcântara and the lively Thieves' Market. Tomas took us to the Graça Viewpoint at the Igreja, where Rick and Jane enjoyed the view and took selfies.

Most tuk tuks accommodate two to four people but some
such as this one are larger and can accommodate six or seven. 

OUR TWO_HOUR tour focused on Lisbon highlights, with Tomas providing entertaining commentary and stopping wherever we saw a photo opportunity. Because it's a city built on seven hills, its neighborhoods spread out from the city's historic center, blending into another, to the Belém area near the water.
Some tours focus on history, others on architecture, others on food. So you can tailor your tour to your interests.
Lisbon's famous Cathedral, the Se de Lisboa,
is one of the stops driver Tomas always includes.
 

The tuk tuk is a wonderful way to savor a city. On an earlier tuk tuk tour, we sampled flavors of Portugal, with typical sweets and chocolate cups.

 Lisbon's sights are muted and lovely on a sunset cruise.
A tuk tuk tour then a relaxing cruise are a fine pair.

 

Typically, the two-hour tuk tuk tours focus on a specific area of the city, usually the Alfama and historic area.
A half-day tour allows one to see more of the city 
and get more detailed information about the main attractions.
A full-day tuk tuk tour will cover most of the major attractions, most likely taking passengers to Belem which is a bit outside the center.
The longer tours also give time to go inside museums, churches and gardens rather than just driving by, which we did this last time.
Lisbon is a city of majestic architecture and many fountains.

During themed tuk tuk tours, you’ll visit the main landmarks of the city but with a special focus. Passengers can choose from food to art to national heroes, museums and more.
WHETHER YOU see Lisbon by tuk tuk or walking tour, or taxi ride, you won't want to miss Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. As one of Lisbon’s must-see sights, it is Belem's undisputed architectural showstopper, an impressive honey-stone Manueline cloisters inside a UNESCO-listed 1495 monastery. On the nearby riverfront, another famous sight is the tower, or torre of Belem. It's an imposing fortress which epitomizes the excess of the Age of Discovery. We climbed to the top for splendid views over the Tagus River.  
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers took
a tuk-tuk tour then hopped on a sunset cruise,
 framed by Lisbon architecture. 

OUR GUIDE Tomas knows where to find the best views and photo opportunities. He drove us to historic places, waiting patiently and helping us plan the next stop.  As one of the oldest cities in western Europe, there are more stops than possible in a single tour. So Tomas helps narrow the field, describing how his city has evolved through various occupations, wars and conquests, asking which aspects interest us most. 
THE EXPLAINED that the region was home to the Celts -- founded by well traveled Phoenicians around 1200 BC, making it 400 years older than Rome. These educated people established a settlement called Ulissipo, and became successful merchants, traders and colonizers until they were conquered by the Greeks and Carthaginians. 
TOMAS IS rightly proud of Lisbon.  As Portugal's thriving capital city it maintains its strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula. After a tuk tuk ride, we recommend Tagus Cruises, which takes it name from the famous river.

Consider Lisbon by boat and tuk-tuk. For tuk-tuks, contact To book Tmas Neves: tomasneves95@gmail.com
TripAdvisor offers many tuk-tuk tours.
Or contact Lisbon's tourism office at: www.visitlisboa.com/
For a fun cruise:
taguscruises.com 


Puerto Rico's El Yunque Rain Forest is a tropical treat.

UP NEXT: We continue our look at Puerto Rico, where the government has stepped up its tourism in the last year and is spending millions to attract us. It's more than coffee, casinos, rum and beaches. So leaving Ponce, we head into the El Yunque rain forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Then, a visit to seductive San Juan, with adventure, night life, fine dining and an inviting old town and gorgeous hotels and resorts.



Thursday, October 31, 2024

'Jewel of the South': Ponce's pleasures delight all year through

 

A stately mansion in Ponce, Puerto Rico, is said to have ghosts.   Castillo Serrallés (Spanish for Serrallés Castle) was built by a rum baron and is now a museum and events venue. Each October, part of it is transformed as a ghostly gathering entertains visitors. It's apropos, because many haunted places around the world are castles. 

Ponce revelers take to the streets on Halloween.

SECOND LARGEST CITY WELCOMES VISITORS WITH ITS GENTLE CHARM, ART AND HISTORY

PLUS A HAUNTED HOUSE IN ITS FAMOUS CASTLE TO CELEBRATE HALLOWEEN


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER



PUERTO RICANS enjoy life. And they make the most of holidays -- including Halloween. As an unincorporated U.S. territory, Puerto Rico celebrates most of the same holidays as we in the mainland do -- All Hallows Eve included. Puerto Rico also celebrates the Day of the Dead "Dio de los Muertos" -- a holiday traditionally celebrated Nov. 1 and 2. In Puerto Rico, it is not as "big" an event as in other Latin countries. But both are celebrated -- often combined -- as family and friends gather to remember loved ones who have died. Like most Puerto Rican gatherings, food is served and the graves are usually visited with food and flowers.
Ghosts welcome visitors
to Ponce's Serralles Castle. 

 

Ponce's architecture
frames this reveler
on Halloween, 2023
.
No place in Puerto Rico can compete with Ponce's famous haunted castle for the "fright prize."  Ponce offers top ghostly enthusiasm in a haunted manor at Serralles Castle. 

KNOWN AS "the house that rum built," the imposing castle is a well preserved reminder of the countries glorious "rum days."

Ponce is an attractive, clean city in southern
Puerto Rico, quieter and cheaper than San Juan.
Every year to celebrate Halloween, the Castle becomes a scary, haunted mansion. The holiday "redo" fits its design perfectly.
Built in Spanish Colonial Revival-style building, it was technically advanced for the 1930s. It is a lovely, antique filled place, including a Japanese garden and butterfly nursery. What a treat to visit the castle and town. We took a couple days side trip to Ponce, renting a car in San Juan for the 90-minute drive south through the center of the country. We booked two tours: one of the castle and one of the city, enjoying two perspectives on explorers, the rum industry, and the city's architecture, art and history.  
Ponce encourages murals and street art, to entertain tourists.

WE ENJOYED the two tours -- first the Castle, then a lively guided walking tour of city center. Ponce's recorded history dates to 1692 when the famous Juan Ponce de León sailed into the island. As Puerto Rico's second-largest city, Ponce is often overlooked by tourists.  But it's an easy trip from San Juan for a pleasant day or two, with a more apparent "village" feel than  its larger, bustling  resort oriented sister. 

CASTILLO Serrallés  -- Serralles Castle -- is imposing both by its grandeur and because it overlooks Ponce's downtown.  It was built during the 1930s for Juan Eugenio Serrallés, son of businessman  Juan Serralles, who founded Destileria Serralles. It structure sits on a 2.5-acre beautifully manicured property. We saw a wedding rehearsal the day we visited. That's a huge part of the building's appeal, our guide said, as she focused on the building's past, the rum industry and the impact it had on Puerto Rico's economy.

Ponce is a favorite destination for
weddings, and encourages romance
on its Paseo Amor, street of love.
Ponce's parks and squares are
well manicured and inviting.
DESTINATION weddings are a big draw to the mansion, our guide explained, and many sun seekers take a break from busier San Juan to enjoy the more relaxed ambiance of Ponce.
PONCE's OLD town is a colorful place, with plazas, churches, and colonial homes.
Public art is encouraged and subsidized and Ponce has several large public art installations. Ponce's city market  
THE CITY's Plaza del Mercado at Ponce -- 
Bespoke Lifestyle Management
Management offers lively
tours, here with Melina Aguilar.
our talented Ponce guide.
known by older residents as Plaza del Mercado Isabel II -- is a huge indoor street market in the heart of town. Many of its shops and vendors have been there for decades. Locals know it has the freshest vegetables and fruits for a fair price. Traditional foods, candy, art and lottery tickets are offered in more than a dozen stands. The goods come from local farms, confectioners, and artists.
Nearby Mercado de las Carnes was the first building in  
Ponce's Plaza del Mercado offers bargain prices
on locally grown fruits and vegetables in more
than two dozen shops inside a renovated building. 
Puerto Rico to mix social and architectural
elements in its pedestrian mall.  The historic art deco  structure dates to 1926.

Bruce Keller enjoys a
Ponce Ice cream. 
Another enticement: charming hotels are half the price of similar inns in San Juan. Expedia, airbnb and many other options offer everything from lavish estates to simple apartments.

More information: discoverpuertorico.com
bespokeconcierge.com



Enjoying a reunion and a tuk-tuk ride with friend Tomas
Neves are Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller.

UP NEXT: We explore Lisbon's marvels on a tuk-tuk.  Four of us adventuresome sojourners climbed into a tuk-tuk to traverse this historic Portuguese city and enjoy its famous landmarks -- from cathedrals to street markets. A tuk-tuk ride in Lisbon is a must, for getting close-up views and learning a lot in a few hours. Our guide has become a friend through several trips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more:  www.whereiscookie.com and please share the link with traveling friends: www.whereiscookie.com

















Thursday, October 24, 2024

The Bard's "the bomb" as Shakespeare in the Schools charms hundreds of kids across Montana and Wyoming

Montana's talented Shakespeare in the Schools actors play multiple
roles.  Here are two of the cast in a scene from the delightful touring
production of "A Midsummer Night's Dream." Left, Samantha Potrykus
 plays Hippolyta and Titania, Queen of the Fairies, and Calvin Adams
plays both a disgruntled father, and Nick Bottom, who takes on another
 role in the play within the play. Quick costume changes are demanded. 


SERVING BELOVED  PLAY BY THE BARD  WITH A WESTERN TWIST AS MONTANA TROUPE DELIGHTS SCHOOL KIDS AND CHILDREN OF ALL AGES








Many regional and touring companies across the
United States offer theater in rural schools. Here
students enjoy Montana's Shakespeare in the
Schools, which is touring 50 small towns. 
                                           

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

HOW DOES ONE make Shakespeare palatable to groups of fidgety youngsters?
Montana Shakespeare in the Schools has the answer and is sharing it with thousands of kids in small towns across two states.
  Make it lively! Have the actors don eye-catching costumes and speak distinctly so kids can understand the lines.  Throw in physical humor and dance steps to keep things moving. Share the spirit of fun. 
Avery Johnson, left, plays Lysander, and Francis
Flute in the play within the play, to Isa Guitian's
Puck, who delights the kids with music & antics. 

 WE JOINED a packed house recently at Tippet Rise Art Center recently for a rollicking version of "A Midsummer Night's Dream." The troupe had just played Hysham and Hardin and was enroute to Rapelje and Red Lodge, then a string of Wyoming towns.
The beloved Shakespearean classic -- about love, nature and magic  -- is getting a lively "retelling" as Montana Shakespeare in the Schools makes an ambitious two-state tour.
The 2024 production by Montana's beloved Shakespeare in the Parks is touring more than 50 schools in Montana and Wyoming with the same high quality production values that mark the company's rigorous summer schedule.
Eight actors are charming
audiences as they tour. 
FOR THE 32nd season, eight professional actors from across the U.S., are enacting a lively 85-minute rendition of a classic to more than 12,000 middle and high-school students -- and a few lucky adults.  This year's tour travels from Kalispell to Plentywood, Bozeman to Hardin and Sidney, dipping down into Wyoming to Cody, Powell, Meeteetse, Worland and Buffalo. The intent is to debunk the myth that kids don't "get" Shakespeare. In so doing, the production makes the language and story appealing and understandable, with a western twist and country music. 
Actors Abigail Nakken and Avery Johnson in a scene
from "A Midsummer Night's Dream." Nakken  spoke later
about the importance of making Shakespeare approachable
to young students, to awaken their interest in the classics.

In a post-show "talk back," actor Abigail Nakken explained, "Our hope is to make Shakespeare come alive for kids -- to make it approachable and fun. Not something that adults tell them that they won't understand because it's over their heads."
WITH ACROBATICS, fun props, enchanting costumes, an accordion, guitar, and precise diction, the company did just that at Tippet Rise, in one of the tour's early shows. The long run extends through mid-December with stops in small communities that seldom host performing arts, let alone a professional theater company. The endeavor -- supported by Montana Arts Council, National Endowment for the Arts and other arts backers -- targets smaller communities, where the arts are often short-changed.
So students in Lame Deer,  Box Elder, Belt, Ronan, Polson, Ennis, Harrison and Belgrade all among those recipients of an impressive production.
High energy, music
and colorful costumes
mark the production.
It's a pleasure to watch kids smile, laugh and applaud lively antics, quick dance steps, acrobatics, sword play and lots of physical humor. 
The compact set for "A Midsummer
Night's Dream" collapses and folds into
the back of a car during the long tour.
DOING THE show again and again, day after day, demands energy and commitment. The young, enthusiastic cast delivers that in spades, with imaginative direction from Shakespeare in the Parks veteran actor Kerry Bishé Her career spans stage and screen, from AMC and ABC productions to New York's famed Roundabout Theatre Company. She made her professional debut with Montana Shakespeare in the Parks in 2004 and chose actors from several thousand thespians across the country during January auditions. Most of them had not been west of Chicago or St. Paul, so they're enjoying the immersion and beauty of the landscape. 
SO HOW do the actors transport that charming "woodsy" set from school to school?
It collapses and folds up, like a giant box of LEGOs!
To inquire about the next season of Montana Shakespeare in the Schools: 
https://shakespeareintheparks.org/menu/shakespeare-in-the-schools
For more on Shakespeare programs around the U.S.
www.arts.gov/initiatives/shakespeare-american-communities

Ghost, goblins and a famous haunted house await visitors
to Puerto Rico's "Pearl of the South," the town of Ponce.
UP NEXT: Ponce, Puerto Rico, is a great place to celebrate Halloween. It's not as well known as San Juan, but it's a lively and historic city, a pleasure to visit any time of the year. There's even a famous haunted house awaiting visitors. The "Pearl of the South" is known for its historical and cultural attractions as Puerto Rico's second-largest city  and as an unincorporated U.S. territory, it celebrates many of the same holidays as the mainland does -- All Hallows Eve included. Join us for a spooky visit, remembering to explore, learn and live. Please share our website with like minded friends:www.whereiscookie.com

Thursday, October 17, 2024

Celebrity Cruising: 15 ships offer splendid itineraries, stylish traveling


We boarded Celebrity's Eclipse for an exciting 15-day cruise from Buenos Aires to the Antarctic.
Here, we joined fellow cruisers to board our bus for a shore excursion and spectacular wildlife. 


CELEBRITY'S FLEET SPANS THE WORLD, WITH CLASSY STATE OF THE ART VESSELS

Celebrity ships are easily recognized by the
trademark "X," here on the line's Edge.


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER
Celebrity's shore excursions include a wide range of activity,
including biking. "Cookie and Keller" enjoy a ride in Vietnam
.


THE GREEKS have long been good travelers.
So it's no surprise that Celebrity Cruises owes its heritage to the Greece based Chandris Group, which launched the company in 1988-89.
We're Celebrity fans, dating back to the year the line was founded by the Greece-based Chandris Group with its first ships, Mercury and Meridian. The respected Chandris organization established the cruise line's reputation as an up-market big-ship operator. 
ONE CAN easily spot a Celebrity ship with the line's signature "X," displayed on the funnel. It's 
Close-up communion with king penguins was a highlight of our recent
 Celebrity Antarctic cruise from Argentina, a wondrous 15-day voyage. 
the Greek letter chi for "Chandris." If Chandris sounds familiar, you're old enough to remember Chandris Line, a Greek shipping company founded in 1960 by popular ship builder and developer Antonios Chandris. His began operating ocean liners between his native Greece, to Europe, Bermuda and Australia. Chandris initiated the "X" tradition on its funnels, paying homage to the first letter of  Chandris in Greek: Χανδρή. The chi was the logo for Chandris then for its successor,  Celebrity Cruises.
CELEBRITY IS rightly  proud of its ships "bells and whistles' and modern venues, including state-of-the-art cabins, restaurants, bars and attractions geared towards R&R. Its Edge is touted as "revolutionary -- designed to raise the bar of cruising."
It features a trend-setting outward facing design encouraging guests to feel connected to the sea. An expansive terrace pool deck provides spectacular views as the ship sails between ports. 
Heading out to explore aboard Celebrity 
for a thrilling wildlife adventure in Antarctica.
The resort deck offers a beautifully tended rooftop garden with an urban “playscape,” unique to Celebrity. An  asymmetrical pool also faces the sea. Comfy seating encourages a picnic while watching a movie in the garden.
Celebrity Cruises operates 15 vessels. We've cruised on 7 of those, including two trips on the line's dowager ship, Celebrity Millennium, which is nearly 24 years old and still a favorite. A highlight of our 155 cruises was a spectacular itinerary through Asia, with Bali's breathtaking landscapes and gorgeous sails into Hong Kong and Singapore.

MILLENNIUM also goes to India and South Korea and smaller ports in Malaysia.
Cookie and Keller on Celebrity,
enjoying the scenery in Halong
Bay off the coast of Vietnam. 
 Celebrity doesn't rest on its laurels, coming out with a new ship every two years. It typically keeps vessels for around 20 to 30 years before retiring them.
Several Celebrity ships offer art classes, here
glass blowing classes and demonstrations.
We were fans in the line's busy period between 2000 and 2002, when Celebrity launched four ships: Millennium, Infinity, Summit and Constellation -- all carefully chosen names carrying on the sentimental naming tradition of Chandris, who came up with Romantica for an early ship.
Writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers gives a
reading aboard Celebrity Millennium. 
These larger, modern Celebrity ships carry 2,200-plus passengers -- still reasonable compared to today's largest ship, Icon of the Seas, with 7,600 passengers.  We like Celebrity's sizes and its all-glass elevator banks, lively art lectures, stunning onboard art collections, variety of inviting, relaxing areas and a focus on culinary experiences.
THE LINE also initiated a series of programs and enhancements designed to improve onboard experience, including glass blowing among the  expanded adult enrichment program, afternoon tea and a spa cafe dinner option. This is Blu, open exclusively to passengers staying in AquaClass cabins. We've also sampled Celebrity's 98-passenger Celebrity Xpedition (a delightful 48 passengers) which gives a wonderful close-up view of the creatures and landscape of the Galapagos.  The ship, in fact, helped put Celebrity -- and Darwin's famous islands -- on the map. For Celebrity's 2024-25 itineraries, discounts and more: celebritycruises.com
School children across Montana learn to enjoy
Shakespeare thanks to inventive direction and
fine acting of Montana Shakespeare in the Schools.


ON TAP:
 In the next weeks, we romp with dolphins, try a tuk-tuk tour in Lisbon and join lucky kids enjoying Montana Shakespeare in the Schools. Fortunate students are enjoying a spirited offering of "A Midsummer Night's Dream" now until mid-December. Find out how your school can book a regional touring company.  There are many across the U.S. Then soon we head to Gibraltar's famous bay which offers a view of two continents and splendid sea life.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com



Thursday, October 10, 2024

Pride, patriotism, awe as Mount Rushmore is cloaked in fall splendor

Autumn is a perfect time to visit Mount Rushmore National Memorial in South Dakota's Black Hills.
 Fine fall weather is predicted for the next few days making for prime viewing of the spectacular art. 

MEMORIAL ATTRACTS INTERNATIONAL CROWD, EVOKES EMOTION AND AWE


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
An "Avenue of Flags" welcomes visitors -- an impressive
and colorful array of flags of the 50 U.S. states, territories,
commonwealths and the District of Columbia.


PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER


A FEELING of intense pride overcame me as I gazed in wonder at Mount Rushmore.

Surrounded by an international crowd of admirers -- many with children, hundreds with cameras -- I heard French, Italian, Hindi, Hebrew, German, Mandarin, Japanese and Polish as people absorbed the accomplishment.  Fellow Americans wiped tears and I found myself emotional, too.

Many children are part of the crowds each day as
three million people from all over the world visit annually.

 
ONE ENTERS  Mount Rushmore National Memorial through an impressive hall of flags.  The display forms an artful promenade -- flags gently waving in autumn winds. The "avenue" was established during the 1976 U.S. Bicentennial as part of the celebration. It was fun to find our two states' flags -- California and Montana. We watched as fellow Americans took photos by their state's emblem. A woman from Mexico proudly recalled her naturalization ceremony here in 2007. "My whole family came," she said emotionally.
There's a fine book store, ranger talks, an excellent film about the monument's making, a beautiful viewing terrace, nature trails, fascinating artful museum, a classy gift shop, and "Carver's Cafe" where the ice cream junkie in our family tasted Thomas Jefferson's own recipe. Thumbs up! "Rich and delicious," he said.

Bruce Keller and Christene
"Cookie" Meyers on site.

THE STAR of the show is Gutzon Borglum's massive carving on the granite mountain. Four remarkable U.S. presidents gaze back at us, from left: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln.  Borglum chose them for their contributions to the country, their ethics and morals, global thinking, environmental interests and preservation of the principles of the constitution. 

Borglum inspected the monument
many times between the work
which lasted from 1927 to 1941.
--photo courtesy Mount Rushmore Memorial
Carving began in 1927 as the son of Danish immigrants undertook his most ambitious project. 
One imagines him supervising as tons of dynamite blasted through the spirelike granite formations of the Black Hills. Borglum was "hands on," dangling from ropes to inspect the work as his vision took shape.  He was concerned with how morning and midday light would affect his figures, and visited at various times of day to document his perceptions. 

Thomas Jefferson's recipe for
ice cream is one of many unique
displays at Rushmore. 
 BOTH federal funds and private donations made it possible to blast more than 450,000 tons of rock from the mountain with the skills of 400 laborers.  No one was killed, remarkably, and the workers are honored on a giant plaque. The original cost of under $1 million seems modest compared to the $56 million spent during an enormous redevelopment project in the 1990s.   

WE'VE VISITED monuments and memorials worldwide -- hundreds of them commemorating fallen war heroes, statesmen, suffragists, sea battles and sailors lost, politicians, economists, scientists, explorers, city founders, musicians and artists, even beloved dogs. None had the effect that seeing this colossal, internationally known stone sculpture had on me.

Crazy Horse reaches out to his peoples' lands in the work-in-
progress sculpture. The hole shows where the leader's arm
will extend. One can see his finger pointing. His horse will
eventually be carved beneath him. Carving began in 1948.
HOWEVER, THE project has not been accomplished without controversy. Some thought the proposal would compromise the natural wonder of architecture formed millions of years ago. Many Native Americans felt that placing the sculpture on their sacred Black Hills land would represent continuing betrayal of trust, and another in a string of broken treaties. For centuries, Plains Indians including Arapaho, Cheyenne and Lakota Sioux have used the area for prayer, medicine, and for gathering food and building materials. In the latter half of the 19th century, U.S. expansion into the Black Hills led to the infamous Sioux Wars. In the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie, the U.S. government granted exclusive use of all of the Black Hills to the Sioux. So one understands the objection to the sculpture.

A sculpture of Gutzon Borglum
by his son, Lincoln Borglum in
on display at the Memorial.
TO PAY RESPECT to these great cultures and in the spirit of apology for many broken treaties, another memorial is in progress. We visited it, too, and recommend it as a companion visit to Rushmore.  The nearby Crazy Horse Memorial is just a half hour or 17 miles down the road from Rushmore. It is an impressive complex on Thunderhead Mountain, with a museum and elaborate displays of Indian beadwork, paintings and sculpture. Its focal point is the  sculptural work in progress of the great Lakota leader and his horse.  Another ambitious project, it was begun more than 75 years ago, in 1948, and continues today. The project was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a  respected Lakota elder. The massive carving of Crazy Horse was inspired by his heroics at the Battle of the Little Big Horn, in which General George Custer was defeated. Survivors contributed memories of the battle to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski who undertook the project and worked on it for many years.  

This photo shows the back of the granite with
the figure of George Washington peeking out.
 AFTER Ziolkowski died in 1982, his widow Ruth and family continued the project, operated by the nonprofit Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, which also runs the museum and cultural center. The monument reflects desire to create a symbol of Native American heroism and resilience. Fees range from $7 to about $15.

Rushmore admission is free. $10 for parking.

mtrushmorenationalmemorial.com

crazyhorsememorial.org


Celebrity Cruises offers 15 ships and interesting options to
 entertain guests, here a glass blowing demonstration & class.

UP NEXT: We have fun in store, with Montana's Shakespeare in the Schools, San Juan and the rain forest of Puerto Rico, a Halloween preview and a special cruise with glass blowing classes. Some of our favorite cruises offer an opportunity to learn a new art and we tried our luck at glass blowing on a recent Celebrity Eclipse cruise to Antarctica.  It's a cool way to educate oneself at sea, and you keep what you make, including a novel urn for ashes of a beloved pet. More on the Bard in rural schools  and a recent Celebrity cruise to the far reaches of the Earth.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com





Thursday, October 3, 2024

Falklands lure Yanks to discover "Islas Malvinas," learn about the war

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, or "Las Malvinas" to Argentine people, is a peaceful town of less
than 3,000 people. It is one of the smallest and most remote capital cities in the world.

FISHING, PENGUINS, ENGLISH INFLUENCE CLOSE TO ARGENTINA BUT REMOTE


English influence abounds in Port Stanley,
including old-fashioned telephone booths.
Here, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"
Meyers take a stroll through the village.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

WE ALL remember when Queen Elizabeth 2 famously requisitioned her namesake ship, QE2, converting it to a troop ship  during the 1982 conflict in the remote Falkland Islands.
Many of us went to our atlas to find exactly where the islands were.
So 40 years later, there we were, on the Falkland Islands during a Celebrity cruise.
Our day there was full and fun, beginning with several hours at the fascinating penguin preserve on Bluff Cove.
There are several lovely rural retreats in the Falklands, offering hill walking and birdwatching. We saw both King and Magellanic penguins,  gentoo penguins, Cobb's wrens, and striated caracaras. We also saw the Upland Goose and Falkland Steamer Duck.
A courtyard near the museum features remnants
of the Falkland's War and old fishing boats.
On the penguin trail in the Falklands

Imposing Christ Church Cathedral on Stanley's main street.
Our driver was a cheerful, good natured chap,  much like the Englishmen we've met in pubs in the UK.  In fact, that's where he was headed after our day's outing.  He'd picked us up earlier at the ship terminal, dropping us off at the preserve.  When he came to fetch us after our outing, he was looking forward to his pint, like any proper Englishman capping a long day's work.
THE LAND is flat and arid, much like parts of inland Australia, with the same sheep grazing terrain and miles and miles of dry grassland.
In Stanley, the English influence is apparent everywhere, including the supermarket. There we found English teas, kippers, chutney, sausages and black pudding.
Main street is home to fish and chip shops, and one cafe featured Cornish pastries and sticky toffee pudding.
Attractions include a delightful museum, and Government House—built in 1845 and home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands. Naturally, there's a golf course.
Keller and Cookie in the Historic Dockyard Museum,
a treasure trove of memorabilia and wildlife exhibits.
OUR AFTERNOON in  Stanley was a pleasant follow-up to the penguin excursion. We wandered the town of 2,400, and looked at a map to ground ourselves while we had a coffee. We were about 300 miles northeast of the southern tip of South America. Europeans claimed the islands as early as 1645, using them as a stopping off point for rounding the horn.
There are two main islands: East Falkland and West Falkland, and 200 smaller islands, spread out over 4,700 square miles.  
Most of the 3,758 people live in Stanley, a quiet capital city. We spent a couple hours at the fascinating Historic Dockyard Museum, two floors of treasures. An elderly docent spoke of growing up with three generations in her household. We also toured the impressive Christ Church Cathedral
A complex of town homes in Stanley.  The average
price of a home is 320,000 British pounds,
or about $415,000 American dollars.
 

and the Whalebone Arch, the 1982 Liberation Memorial, the Lady Elizabeth shipwreck, and some of Stanley’s original houses. We learned of the way of life and heritage in these rugged islands, where fishing, tourism, and agriculture flourish. Fishing is the largest industry, contributing more than half of the islands' annual GDP. The islands also export wool, hides and meat.  Last year, more than $382 million in goods went to Spain, Morocco, the United States, Namibia, and Germany.  Jetty Visitor Centre has this information, along with helpful maps and a cheerful docent to field questions.
 WE ASKED our guide about the Falklands Conflict of 1982, that short undeclared war between Argentina and Britain. It was fought over the sovereignty of the Falkland Islands. We'd heard the Argentine side in Buenos Aires, where people call the islands Islas Malvinas. The conflict lasted 74 days and cost over 900 lives.
"We are a self-governing British Overseas Territory, and will remain so," he said, explaining that under the country's 2009 Constitution, the islands have full internal self-government. Meanwhile, the UK is responsible for foreign affairs, retaining the power "to protect UK interests and to ensure the overall good governance of the territory".
The courtyards of Port Stanley display artillery from the 1982 conflict.
WHAT LED to the conflict? Following World War II, the British Empire declined and many colonies gained their independence. Argentina saw this as an opportunity to push its case for gaining sovereignty over the Falkland Islands, and raised the issue in the United Nations, first stating its claim after joining the UN in 1945.
Yet, Falkland Islanders overwhelmingly prefer to remain British while many Argentine people still argue that "Islas Malvinas" is theirs.
WE ASKED our Argentine friend why the debate continues:
"The answer is simple," he said. "The Falklands -- Islas Malvinas -- belong to Argentina. They just happen to have been seized, occupied, populated and defended by Britain for hundreds of years."
As the museum docent told us, "We are British, the only life we've known for generations."
To arrange a cruise to the Falklands, we recommend Celebrity Cruises:
www.celebritycruises.com

Mount Rushmore in its autumn glory. Our next feature.

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A visit to Mount Rushmore in its prime autumn splendor. We take readers to this dramatic South Dakota memorial -- at its most beautiful in autumn. It pays homage to the ideals of four beloved U.S. presidents -- Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt. We explore the story behind its creation, with sculptor Gutzon Borglum at the helm. His inspiration for the monumental sculpture was the driving force of its creation as he wooed politicians and presidents to back his dream. More on this fascinating project -- and the nearby Crazy Horse Memorial, which honors Native American people and their tremendous contributions and sacrifice.  On to the Black Hills, remembering to explore, learn and live.  Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, family, the arts and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com