Tourists, go home! Demonstrators protest crowds in southern Europe

 

Crowds on our recent crossing of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence illustrate the overcrowding which
is taxing the patience and pocketbooks of locals, causing anti-tourist demonstrations across Europe.

The complex problem of over-tourism is the focus of today's
column.  We experienced protestors and understand their view.

LOCALS PROTEST AS TOO MANY PEOPLE TAX FOOD & TOUR SERVICES, WATER SUPPLY, DRIVE UP HOUSING 

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE MEYERS 

We photographed this scene in the Canary Islands
earlier this year. We viewed the rally from our bus.

FOR THE day first time in many trips to Europe, we experienced  "tourist go home" demonstrations.

We sympathize with the protestors, but it's a strange feeling. We have mixed feelings about this phenomenon.

On the one hand, we travel to enjoy ourselves, relax, as we spend money to take in familiar and new sights. We are courteous and tip well. But not all locals want us in southern Europe. 

The day we docked in Santorini, above, three other ships
were in port. Seven ships have docked on other days. 

WE UNDERSTAND their feelings because while many businesses rely on tourism, others view increasing crowds as a plague.  They claim over-tourism  is damaging the land, economy and spirits. It's a fact that in some places, rents have more than doubled in five years and lines to access museums, buses and cable cars can wrap around a city block.

Recently, we experienced crushing crowds in Santorini. This caused residents of this idyllic island to balk when they were told to stay home last week.  Why? Because in a single day, 17,000 tourists descended on their lovely land, famous for its blue and white architecture and hilltop vistas.

One way to avoid crowds is to rent a car as
we did a few weeks ago in Lanzarote.

We saw protestors in the Canary Islands, too, where locals are insisting that the government rethink tourism policies. This "Tourist Go Home" mentality was on signs, on banners and on the lips of protestors as anger rises.

Crowds and lines to book tours and get a table
at a resident are a common sight these days. 

It's a complicated issue. Over-tourism is putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing at the expense of residents.  

Restrictions are inevitable as crowds cause a rise in real estate prices, environmental pollution, traffic congestion, general overcrowding and a water shortage.

Crowds overflow in Santorini, awaiting sunset. Bars and
cafes are packed these days; but many locals are not happy.

Still ship passengers are flowing into southern Europe by the thousands. Venice is expected to attract 540,000 cruise ship passengers this year, a near 10 percent increase from 2023, according to the North Adriatic Sea Port Authority.
As the city is overrun by tourists, a visitor's tax has been implemented. Cruise lines are now docking farther from city center which helps the structural and environmental integrity of over-touristed cities and ports. Of course it it makes transportation into "the action" more difficult and expensive for us.  Again, we understand and try to do our part to preserve these beautiful places for a return visit. Somehow, a compromise must be reached. 

Venice folks have mixed feelings about tourism. Many
businesses need the patronage of thousands of visitors
but many others don't appreciate the ill effects of tourism.

UP NEXT: The allure of Venice.  It's not the same cruising into Venice, since cruise ships have been banned from the city front and Grand Canal.  While the city is being overrun by tourists, and a visitor's tax has been implemented, it is still one of the world's most glorious cities. We encourage a visit while we can still find a table to savor the sights and sounds of a sinking but elegant city. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com

 

Porcelain potter retires from studio, parts with treasured collection

 

Rick Cosgriffe's decades long fascination with Oriental brush stroke painting shows in his graceful
and detailed work. These jars are inspired by the wildflowers of his native Montana.

SUMI BRUSH PAINTING INFLUENCED MONTANA BORN ARTIST'S STYLE

PORCELAIN COLLECTION GOES FOR SALE AS ARTIST MARKETS SHOW PIECES

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

Artist Cosgriffe's fine porcelain pottery caught the eye of
New York Times art critic John Canaday, who called his
pieces "elegant -- still wet with the feel of the brush."

PORCELAIN  has ancient roots in the world of art.

And for many years, a Montana native has been carefully creating fine arts porcelain show pieces.

Artist Rick Cosgriffe is  retiring his pottery studio, selling a collection of unique pieces he has crafted since the 1970s during  three decades at the potter's wheel.

Rick's hand painted bowls, vases and platters
reflect his study of sumi painting and his love
of nature and the American west as well. 

The one of a kind collection spans his entire career, showcasing his evolution as an award winning potter, based for many years on the west coast. 

Rick in Europe last
month with his brother-in-
law Bruce Keller.

If this sounds boastful or braggadocious, it's because I'm his sister and a fan. 

Cherry blossoms and birds are frequent motifs in Cosgriffe's
art, here on a platter featuring the faithful chickadee.

I've watched him grow as an artist since we were children drawing birthday cards. Rick left Montana in the early 1970s to apprentice at the Hayes Pottery Studio in Point Arena, California.  Jim Hayes, a native New Yorker and my brother-in-law, invited Rick to study ceramics and learn the craft. It was soon apparent to Jim and his wife, my late sister Peny, that Rick had tremendous talent. As his reputation grew on the west coast, I helped promote his art and sell his porcelain at art fairs and juried shows, including Yellowstone Art Museum. One of our patrons was the wife of the owner of the Seattle Seahawks. She spent thousands on vases,  platters, lamps, jars and bowls and promoted Rick's work in high-end galleries.
IT IS WITH mixed emotion that I announce Rick is parting with his collection at a show and sale this weekend (details below). I will never part with my collection, acquired during many art shows together. My pay each show was a work of art so my collection features Rick's evolution. 

I have collected my brother's hand painted
porcelain for decades. These lovely jars hold
 teas, coffee and sugar for hummingbird nectar.

When I interviewed New York Times art critic John Canaday,  I invited him to our home to show him Rick's pottery. "It has elegance, and enduring beauty," he said with admiration. "It is still wet with the feel of the brush." 

FOR YEARS, Rick's pottery was shown in galleries from San Francisco to Taos, Denver, Whitefish and Red Lodge, and in Billings at Toucan Gallery.  After suffering "burnout" from the rigors of production and shows, Rick's career segued from pottery to nature  photography and writing, a move to Montana, return to university and a degree in counseling. He worked for years at Passages in Billings, helping troubled women return to society and productive life. He retired from Passages but developed another arts career, collaborating with his partner Jane on calendars, mugs, photographs and journals.  Despite  dealing with Parkinson's, he remains an accomplished artist and writer, but no longer creates porcelain art. He jogs daily, and friends from our hometown of Columbus, Montana, remember his excellence as an athlete and devoted runner.

Rick Cosgriffe with his Montana photos. They will
 be available this weekend, along with his porcelain

MY BROTHER'S art is informed by a lifelong interest in travel, in art of many cultures and a particular interest in sumi painting. In reflecting on his work with porcelain -- known for both its delicacy and durability -- Rick pays homage to porcelain artists of centuries past. "Japanese, Chinese and Korean artists worked with classic celadon glazes." Porcelain, he adds, lends itself to graceful glazing "and is an excellent canvas for brush painting." Potters know how difficult it is to paint on curved surfaces rather than a flat canvas. Thus Rick's work reflects both talent and patience. It's been my pleasure to be part of my brother's artful world for many years. I encourage admirers and collectors not to miss this weekend's show. I'll be the one with the hanky.

Art show and sale details: Buyers can browse and collect a piece of Cosgriffe's unique, one-of-a-kind porcelain artwork during a three-day show this weekend at 1311 Hardrock Drive, Billings, Montana, 59105. His elegant work will be displayed on his back patio, during a neighborhood sale. Times are Friday, Sept. 6, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, Sept. 7, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, Sept. 8, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

The complex problem of over-tourism is the focus of our
next column.  We experienced protestors and understand.

UP NEXT: Tourists go home! We felt the frustration and anger of locals on a recent return to Europe. There we were -- enjoying ourselves, spending money, taking in familiar and new sights. But not all the locals want us in southern Europe. We understand their feelings, because tourism has done damage, along with providing income for many.  This "Tourist Go Home" mentality was on both signs and on the lips of protestors during this most recent trip to Europe. It's a complicated issue. Over-tourism is putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing at the expense of residents. We delve into the problem in the next piece. Meanwhile, remember to enjoy, live and learn, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Europe's charms are enhanced by seeing it through brother's eyes

 

Cruising off Gibraltar on the trail of dolphins, during a two-week reunion for Christene "Cookie"
Meyers, left, and her brother, Rick Cosgriffe, second from right. Bruce Keller and Jane Milder
round out the quartet. The two couples spent 15 days together on the Mediterranean.

 TRAVELING WITH A FAVORITE LOVED ONE  ENHANCES A TRIP THROUGH HIGHLIGHTS OF SOUTHERN EUROPE'S FAMOUS CITIES

Classic sculpture greeted our travelers
each day in Florence and Rome. 

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

SEEING FAVORITE places with people you love makes the journey special, enhancing each museum, meal and hike. As Labor Day approaches to signal the end of summer, we recommend considering a trip to Europe with someone you've wanted to travel with. Prices drop along with the temperature, children are back in school and crowds are gone.

From left, Keller, Cookie, Rick and Jane
on a walking tour of Roman ruins.

Keller and I had a bonus on our recent trip. We were joined by my brother, Rick Cosgriffe, and his partner, Jane Milder. It was an unforgettable 14 days, and I wouldn't trade a minute of it for anything.

Seeing, experiencing, tasting -- immersing ourselves in the newness of travel -- is a sensory experience in any case.

Keller, Cookie and Rick near the harbor in Ibiza.

Enjoying the art, food, music, historic monuments  and seaside resorts with loved ones is even more special.
WE BEGAN planning the adventure nearly a year before it materialized.   We coached Rick and Jane on the trip long before they boarded the first plane of several connections. We prepared them for this fact: Things will go wrong.  They did. We advised them to roll with the punches. They did.  

View from a boat ride: The quartet approached one of the
early Roman bridges in central Rome.

PASSPORTS needed to be renewed.  Tickets had to be made both for the cruise portion and the air travel.  Hotel reservations had to be secured in both couples' names.  There were check lists and "to do" lists and reminders to line up pet sitters, garden waterers, house checkers and all the minutia that comes with planning any trip.   Moreso, when the trip is to another continent.

SINCE PART of the trip was an 11-day cruise, land tours needed to be agreed upon and chosen.

Booking early is essential to avoid sold-out tours in favorite port cities. This took hours of planning.

General manager of NCL's Viva, Nelson Martins,
is pictured in center rear, with guests on a recent
Mediterranean cruise. At left are Rick and Keller
with Jane and Cookie at the "GM Table."
  

AS DETAILS fell into place, we  soothed Rick's and Jane's worries.

Growing up, Rick and I found our family travels helped us gain a deeper understanding of the world. I wanted this for the two of them.  It came to be, and was  thrilling to experience the newness, to visit cathedrals and museums with the four of us together as I revisited favorite haunts with someone I've known since his birth, his longtime partner and my husband. 
Traveling together challenged the four of us to adapt to one another while expressing our preferences and desires. We made sure to honor everyone's preferences so we could relax and fully enjoy our new surroundings. We collaborated on restaurant choices, engaging with hotel personnel and taking suggestions to enhance our adventures. We helped one another feel comfortable in new surroundings and when Rick and Jane really wanted to do a particular tour or see a particular museum, we compromised. We also surprised them a number of times, with special excursions,

A tuk-tuk ride with a friend was a special thrill
for Cookie and Rick, foreground, with Keller,
Jane and our driver friend in the back.

including a tuk-tuk ride through Lisbon. 
TRAVELING TOGETHER immersed in new sights, sounds, tastes, and textures, it is important to listen to your fellow travelers.  We drew them out, asked them for their observations, which triggered conversation and anecdotes. My brother remembered finding a charming gelato shop from a previous trip to Europe. So that became a mission as we went off the ship.

WHAT I LOVED most about being with my two favorite fellas -- spouse and brother -- was sharing our observations about places both familiar and new.  Discovery and anticipation are great parts of travel, and finding a new museum or art gallery is  a terrific bonding experience. Rick, a gifted ceramic artist,  found a pottery studio during a

A hike near Marseille in the hilltop village of Le Castellet.
From left are Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Christene
"Cookie" Meyers and Jane Milder in Provence, France.

Keller and Rick
on tour, at large!

stroll through the village of Le Castellet in southern France.  

And there Jane discovered that she'll never settle for anything less than a French inspired cafe au lait,

when she sipped a delicious five-franc cup in the village.

THE EVENING most special in our memories came with an invitation to dine with Viva's general manager, Nelson Martins, at his table.

We had a fabulous time, and recommend Viva for anyone looking for all that cruising offers.

Fun cruise on NCL's VIVA 

www.ncl.com/about/contact-us

 

Elegant porcelain pottery -- unique hand-painted floral art --
by retiring artist Rick Cosgriffe. It will be sold this weekend
at his studio home in Billings, Montana. Details soon.

UP NEXT:  Porcelain artist Rick Cosgriffe (featured above) is parting with his cherished collection of hand-painted pottery.  He apprenticed on the California coast with artist Jim Hayes many years ago, then studied sumi painting in Berkeley and Portland, Oregon, before returning to his native Montana.  His prize-winning work is in many galleries, praised for its nature inspired beauty and fine detail.  We profile the artist, who is the writer's brother, and share particulars on his show in Billings featuring unique hand painted platters, jars, vases and tea pots. Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and check us out for a fresh spin on the arts, family, performance and nature: www.whereiscookie.com 

Art, nature, music merge in Montana's stunning Tippet Rise Art Center

A "bonus concert" arranged just days before, capped a weekend opening as world class musicians
performed at Tippet Rise' Art Center. Noted pianist Yevgeny Sudbin, left, thrilled the Olivier Music Barn audience Saturday with Chopin, Debussy and more. Sunday, his wife Sally Wei, and their gifted children performed a "pop up" family concert, receiving a standing ovation from the delighted audience. 

Singer Ema Nikolovska charmed
Tippet Rise concert goers with her
dramatic voice and playful asides.

AT HOME ON THE RANGE, INTERNATIONALLY KNOWN PERFORMERS DELIGHT AT FISHTAIL'S UNIQUE ARTS VENUE

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

Concert goers include a mix of back packers, hikers, bikers
and others, all mingling for a concert, this one at Domo.

FROM THE world's great concert halls to a nature driven Montana venue, a slate of world-renowned performers graces Tippet Rise Art Center each summer.

The 2024 season began last weekend, on this unique working ranch and arts venue where a select few of the world's great musical artists arrive each summer to perform.  They sing, play instruments and soak up nature with a packed house of  international music aficionados, selected in a drawing each March for concerts in several magnificent venues both indoors and in outdoor creations. 

Bruce Keller and Christene
"Cookie" Meyers have written
about and photographed the
venue since its beginning.
 

We spent time at this season's opening weekend with two Berlin based performers who sing the praises of the place. Toronto born mezzo-soprano Ema Nikolovska and Georgia born pianist Kunal Lahiry said they're hoping to be invited back "because the place is absolutely inspiring. From the Calder statue at sunrise to a walk in moonlight on the grounds, there's nothing like it anywhere else in the world," Nikolovska said as Lahiry smiled and nodded.

"Inverted Portal" welcomes visits to walk around or
through its expanses. It's one of many intriguing
artworks, each one occupying separate space.

Built without a budget, it's the multi-million dollar creation of philanthropists and artists Cathy and Peter Halstead, heirs to a fortune made by Cathy's father, Sidney Frank, who became a billionaire through his promotion of Grey Goose vodka and Jägermeister. Frank gave millions to educational and artistic endeavors and his painter daughter and her pianist-poet husband are following suit.  Tippet Rise incorporates their love of sculpture, music and nature in a unique artistic creation.

Geology tours explore the land's history

Alexander Calder's "Two Discs" on an early
spring day, with snow still on the hilltops.

 

"We love this place," said pianist Lahiry, echoing Nikolovska's sentiment that "the landscape has moved us forever." He called the place "magical. The environment is gorgeous -- unlike anywhere else --  and the audience is so appreciative and sincere -- not jaded like some we've experienced in city venues." 
The pair received two standing ovations at their Sunday concert, which featured wide-ranging vocal-piano works merging the poetry of Emily Dickinson with Schubert, Copland and others, including  contemporary composer Nahre Sol, whose "digital prayer" was performed by the pair with playful grace.

Kunal Lahiry's expressive piano illustrates his
virtuoso solo brilliance and ability to accompany
Ema Nikolovska with sensitivity and precision.

Nikolovska charmed the house with her range and power, and versatility in interpreting time honored classical work as well as modern, impressionistic pieces. With Lahiry's expressive piano, she emulated a buzzing bee, an insistent fly and sounds of the internet. Like the finest accompanists, Lahiry displayed his own dazzling technique to enhance Nikolovska's captivating voice. The two perfected their delivery in four years of intensive rehearsal.
At the impromptu family concert, five members of the Yevgeny Sudbin family charmed and delighted. "Music saved us during COVID," Sudbin said. He introduced his gifted children and  talented wife, pianist Sally Wei, who also turned pages for her husband and children during duets.

 

Stephen Talasnik's "Satellite No. 5: Pioneer" incorporates space,
and the artist's desire to show connection to land and our roots.

Sudbin is considered one of the 21st Century's most accomplished pianists. Other performers chosen this summer include acclaimed  Frano-Belgian cellist Camille Thomas, award winning Cleveland Orchestra flutist Jessica Sindell, a trio featuring TR regular Anne-Marie McDermott, violinist Chad Hoopes and cellist Christopher Costanza, all lauded chamber players and soloists.
IT WAS FUN to notice license plates in the parking lot a short walk above the Olivier Music Barn: Michigan, Illinois, Vermont, Idaho,

A packed house in the acoustically perfect Olivier Music Barn.

Oregon, Utah and Illinois.  In the concert venues and restaurant, we heard French and German, along with various American and English accents. Hikers mingled with bicycle riders, concert goers and families enjoying    

Cathy and Peter Halstead
spent years searching for a
perfect venue for their dream.

lunch. The mixed crowd is a metaphor for the place, exactly what the Halsteads envisioned more than a decade ago. They explored the U.S. to find a setting to build their dream, desiring a place where people were free to move about the land, admiring sculpture and nature, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the musical arts. Mission accomplished.  The season continues through Sept. 15 with internationally famed quartets, soloists and ensembles, masters of violin, viola, cello oboe, flute, piano, bassoon, clarinet and more.

tippetrise.org

Enjoying a day in Rome, by the Trevi Fountain, are from left:
Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Rick Cosgriffe and
his partner Jane Milder. The couples spent two weeks in Europe

 

UP NEXT: "Travels With My Brother."  My sibling Rick and I have traveled in Europe several times, but it had been decades since we explored together.  We changed that when Bruce Keller and I met Rick Cosgriffe and Jane Milder for a Mediterranean cruise, for an exciting, adventure filled two weeks together. We explored ports in Portugal, France, Spain and a few days in Italy. It's a wonderful memory, the reason we urge readers to "seize the day" as Labor Day weekend approaches. It's a carpe diem world so time to fulfill  travel dreams, particularly with loved ones. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, performance, nature, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Tirano's treasures: a charming inn, gourmet restaurant, mountain views

The view from our room at the lovely Ostello del Castello, where we spent a few peaceful nights before
boarding Bernina Express for a dazzling journey from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland.

HISTORIC, PICTURESQUE TIRANO HAS MUCH TO OFFER: A CHARMING HOTEL, FINE DINING, WINERIES, MUSEUMS, GORGEOUS VIEWS

The charms of hotel Ostello del Castello include great views
 of the mountains and a decor reflecting both new and old.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

YOU WON'T find a more amiable and accommodating host than Andrea, owner of Ostello del Castello, a lovely little inn in Tirano, Italy.

And you won't find a more picturesque and friendly village with artful shops, delightful eateries, a knock-out mountain setting and easy access to the Bernina Express rail adventure.

Bruce Keller, Andrea Gusmeroli and Christene
"Cookie" Meyers at Andrea's hotel in Tirano. 

The host's helpful and welcoming nature is what we remember most about our visit to his 200-year old converted farm house.

"Do you own it?" I asked, over a generous breakfast of fruits, cereals, pastries, meats and cheeses. "Well, yes, I do -- with the help of the bank," he winked.

About to enjoy a leisurely meal at the artful Restaurant
Paravicinni, with engaging artwork and fine service.

ANDREA Gusmeroli and his lovely hotel and staff enhanced our stay at every turn. The inn's trademark is old world hospitality extended by  genuinely helpful and pleasant people.  We noticed this from the first afternoon when his assistant arranged a taxi. It was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived after a long day of travel. We'd begun our day in Rome, on to Milan then a train change and at last Tirano. 

Delicious salads include homemade
wheat and sourdough rolls, with
tasty farm fresh vegetables and herbs.

So we were tired and didn't relish walking the half-mile on cobblestone streets with four bags from a two-month trip, and a full backpack to boot. After we rested, we asked for pointers on a nearby restaurant. We were steered down the easy hill past neatly kept homes bedecked with flowers and sporting vegetable gardens. Our destination was the fabulous Restaurant Paravicini. Both a local favorite and popular with tourists, the eatery offers tasty regional favorites. We tried excellent spaghetti with shrimp, and a rare steak and potatoes. Our pretty salad came with fresh herbs from the garden and a helpful staff served a crisp local white wine and Keller's faux beer. He pronounced it delicious, an Italian choice, Peroni, which became a favorite.

The classy eatery features  cave-like rooms with vaulted ceilings and a handsome, well stocked wine-cellar.  Local meats are expertly prepared with, of course, delectable pasta.

WE'D WALKED up the inn's patio in late afternoon so didn't notice the tiny lights. Later, at dusk, they twinkled to welcome us back. Then, with a view of  mountains in moonlight, we settled into a comfy bed with a down comforter for one of the best night's sleep of our long trip. 

Tirano is in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, population 9,053, adjacent to the Switzerland-Italy border. The river Adda flows through town center. Here are a few pointers to enhance your visit: 

* Piazza Cavour. It's a charming square  in the heart of Tirano. Cafes, shops, people watching. Fun

 place. 

Enjoying the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, during time in northern Italy.

* The Church of Madonna di Tirano. This Roman Catholic church dates to the 1500s with a bell tower and ornate sculpture-lined interior. We thought it an enchanting combination of Tuscan, Lombard and Venetian architecture.

* The Tirano Railway Station is where you'll go to board the Bernina Express or "Trenino del Bernina." The flashy red train connects Tirano with St. Moritz, climbing the spectacular Alps without the use of the rack. It is an  engineering jewel of the Rhaetian Railway and in 2008 became part of the UNESCO Heritage. 
For a charming B&B experience with an amiable host and spectacular mountain views: www.ostellotirano.it/booking

To book the Bernina Express: www.berninarailway.com

Yevgeny Sudbin and his gifted children played
piano duets as well as a violin piece Sunday at
Tippet Rise, where the 2024 season is underway.

UP NEXT: Montana's Tippet Rise Art Center opened the 2024 season with a flourish.  Three standing room only concerts featured world renowned musicians and an internationally known mezzo-soprano, plus a pop up family concert  delighted hikers, picnickers and others who happened to be at the arts center. More on this unique art-music-nature venue which is rapidly being included on thousands of peoples' bucket lists. It's no wonder performers from the world's great concert halls love the tranquility and beauty of Montana after the crush and pressure of concertizing and the rigors of hectic scheduling and constant travel. Take time to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

   

 

Bernina Express takes adventurers to the sun, snow on top of the world

In late spring and into summer, temperatures in the Alps can dip to 15 °C (59 F), and there can still be snow on the mountain tops, as Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers discovered recently during a ride on the famed Bernina Express.

HISTORIC RAIL TRIP OFFERS SPLENDID VIEWS ON BERNINA EXPRESS

The viaduct  outside Tirano offers spectacular Alps viewing.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

IT'S BEEN OUR dream for 17 years  to take a train trip through the Swiss Alps and transit the terrain of some of the world's highest mountain ranges.

Both of us love mountains and winding trails. We both love trains, too, so the irresistible combination came to us via Bernina Express.

 

We viewed several villages from the train's panoramic windows. 

The famous train connects Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy by crossing the rugged and lush Swiss Engadin Alps. For most of its journey, the train runs along the World Heritage Site known as the Rhaetian Railway.  

Picturesque sights abound, including this cafe,
Restaurant Alp Grum in Poschiavo, Switzerland.
 

WE BOARDED in Tirano,  a picturesque Italian village, the northern Italy counterpart to the little village chosen for filming "The Godfather." People are friendly and family oriented. They love their dogs and keep tidy, small gardens.  It's a lovely place to stroll the winding streets as we did from our  B&B, the delightful Ostello del Castello. (More on that in next week's feature on Tirano.) 

Framed by Lake St. Moritz are Christene "Cookie" Meyers
and Bruce Keller, on a unique train trip from Tirano, Italy. 

AFTER RESTING a couple days following a hectic time in southern Europe, we were ready to resume our adventures. We walked the mile from the hotel to the train station to await our departure from Tirano. We'd booked our reservations weeks before and found our seats in a comfy car resembling the Vista Dome of my youthful train travel. Glass ceilings in these first class cars offer a panoramic experience. Note in booking that not all the cars have these expansive windows and ceilings.

AS WE traveled, we reveled in the green of the Alps, its rugged terrain, villages and meadows, snow capped peaks, alpine lakes and a remarkable viaduct. While we were on our train, friends took the Bernina Express going the opposite direction, a four-hour, 90-mile journey from icy Switzerland to sunny Italy.  We reversed, starting in Italy and wending our way through 55 tunnels and 196 bridges to St. Moritz.  So while we were digging light jackets out of our backpacks as temperatures dropped, our friends were shedding their sweaters as the weather warmed.

Bruce Keller enjoys a stunning
view enroute to St. Moritz.

Right outside our window, skiers readied their
gear for an afternoon on the slopes. 

The train makes a stop or two along the way for
photos.  We saw skiers and sunbathers in a day.

The train  was built in 1896-1904 and is itself a UNESCO World Heritage site. We appreciated the train's clean, spacious seats. First class is a bit more, but worth it. Everyone was in good spirits and we met delightful people -- Americans, Australians, French, English, German, Swiss, Italians -- all bonded by an appreciation of the spectacular sights we enjoyed together. 

A PLEASANT attendant circulated with a refreshment trolley, offering light
snacks, tea, coffee, wine and souvenirs. It is allowed to bring your own food and drinks, including wine, as several passengers did.

It's a thrill to have experienced this wonderful journey. If you love trains, mountain scenery and adventure, we highly recommend this outing.

For more information: The Chur–Tirano route runs daily between Chur, Switzerland and Tirano, Italy. In summer, the train continues from Tirano to Lugano some days.
St. Moritz–Tirano: This shorter route runs between St. Moritz, Switzerland, and Tirano, Italy. The classic Bernina Red Train route offers panoramic carriages and requires advance ticket reservations. We took it from from Tirano to St. Moritz. Tickets begin at about 29 Euros.

www.berninarailway.com

For rail and ticketing elsewhere in Europe: www.eurail.com

Strolling the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, The charming village was our
base for exploring northern Italy and taking Bernina Express. 

UP NEXT:  We spent a few relaxing days in Tirano, based at the charming Ostello del Castello, a unique family run inn in Tirano, Valtellina, Italy.  Host Andreas and a welcoming staff made us instantly at home and we were surrounded by spectacular views, geraniums in window boxes, and the clanging of cowbells to greet the morning.  We'll visit Tirano and its treasures with tips on combining the train trip with a village visit. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, performance, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com