Thursday, March 14, 2024

On the penguin trail: fascinating tours go far into the southern hemisphere for treasured viewing opportunities

 

Gentoo penguins are recognized by their bright orange feet and their reddish beaks.
They are a bit over three feet tall when mature and keep their single egg, then their young chick
warm in the folds above their feet. It's an ingenious, generations old technique that mostly works. 

PENGUINS OF ANTARCTICA DELIGHT  VISITORS WITH THEIR ANTICS, SURVIVAL INSTINCT, REARING OF THEIR YOUNG
 Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller tour at Bluff Cove
in the Falklands (Las Malvinas), surrounded by Gentoo Penguins



STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER



I HAVE A LOVE affair with penguins. Since childhood, I've admired these beautiful and complex creatures.
Years ago, near Three Forks, Montana, my parents paid 50 cents a head for our family to step inside a large trailer and view two forlorn penguins on a block of ice.

King penguins are distinguished by their
bright orange markings. Here they are
communicating with one another. Each
has a unique sound and pitch so parents
and young can find one another in crowds.
They just sat stoically on the ice and I envisioned them free, doing what penguins do. This wouldn't happen now -- it shouldn't have happened then. But it propelled me into a lifetime of animal advocacy, animal love and respect. It encouraged me to travel thousands of miles -- twice -- to view penguins in their native habitat of the vast Antarctic.
PENGUINS ARE charming, resilient, and adorable.  They make us laugh as they move, and their young are captivatingly cute.  We chose a Celebrity cruise out of Buenos Aires to travel to Buenos Aires and on south.  The purpose was to see wildlife, primarily penguins. Penguins are at the top of my "favorite wildlife" list.  Of the 18 species on the planet, 11 are threatened, so we wanted to see them again while we're still agile enough to make the difficult 8,600 mile trip from San Diego.  

WE BOOKED a two-week cruise out of Buenos Aires, aboard the beautiful Celebrity Eclipse.  We choose it because we love the ship and it went where we wanted to explore, with a fine focus on wildlife.
Our driver's jacket
shows "penguin pride."
The largest colony of Magellanic penguins is found on
Punta Tombo, where this pair seems content and healthy
and did not shy away from our cameras.
The route allowed us to spend several days watching three main species, although we saw others. Today's feature will focus on the King, Gentoo and Magellanic -- the latter named after Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, who led five ships to South America in 1519, eventually opening trade routes across the oceans to the East Indies.
Getting to penguins involves a long journey to the southern
hemisphere, then a cruise out of Buenos Aires, then boarding
tenders or zodiacs to search for the penguin colonies.



There are 8 species of penguins in Antarctica and the surrounding region: Emperor, Adélie, Gentoo, Rockhopper, Macaroni, Magellanic, Chinstrap and King. All are devoted to their young, and mostly monogamous, at least during pregnancy and until the youngster is able to fend for himself. "Then it's up to them," our guide said. 

PENGUINS ARE amazing animals. Their characteristics have long fascinated millions of us, that brotherhood of animal lovers around the world. They go incredible distances to find food for their young, sharing responsibility for maturing each precious egg. 
"Keller and Cookie" enjoy communion with
the Magellanic penguins of the Falklands.
The Emperor penguin marches -- some say "waddles" -- 75 miles one way to find food for his or her baby. In all the species we viewed, both parents participate in the care of the egg and feeding of the chick once hatched. Among other fascinating evolutionary traits, their stomachs have adapted to allow them to drink saltwater.
Each species is unique its appearance and habits.
THE FIRST ones we met were the Gentoo penguins. With flamboyant red-orange beaks, white-feather caps, and peach-colored feet, Gentoos stand out against their drab, rock-strewn Antarctic habitat.
 At Bluff Cove, they share the space with King 
A mother King penguin tends to her plump little chick.
The parents may lose up to half of their body weight
during the first year of feeding their young
.
penguins, the second largest species of penguin, slightly smaller, but similar in appearance to the Emperor penguin. We found these guys and gals irresistible with their shiny black heads, chins, and throats.  A distinctive mark is the vivid orange, tear-shaped patches on each side of the head. This striking tangerine hued coloration extends to the upper chest. 
Most of them came up to my shoulder -- about 38 inches. The young are furry, and develop the waterproof skin as they get closer to their diving and swimming debut with the water. 
What is magical about being with penguins is the rapport with these splendid creatures. As Keller said, "Viewing them in a majestic place,  we feel the remote locale and the unique experience of communion."  The tranquility and order -- with everything in place as nature takes its course -- lingers in our hearts, minds and memories.

More information: celebritycruises.com
worldwildlife.org

 

From a distance, these resemble penguins, but they are
cormorants, great divers, near the town of Ushuaia.

UP NEXT: While we're way south of Buenos Aires, we take readers on our next foray to Ushuaia, which beckons us to explore and enjoy the wildlife there. Ushuaia is a pretty resort town in Argentina, where residents crave the sun which seems to visit only occasionally. It's located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the “End of the World.” The windswept and tidy town, perched on a steep hill, is surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to Antarctica, where we took a day-long boat trip from our cruise ship. The nearby Isla Yécapasela is known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies and stunning cormorants.   Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. Soon, we'll visit stately Colonia in Uruguay, the magnificent opera house, Colon, in Buenos Aires, and the turtles of Poipu on the island of Kauai. 

BEST BET:  An ensemble of gifted 
Sharp direction and a knock-out cast make "Hand to God" a
must see theater experience. It's provocative, funny yet
 poignant, connecting with the audience on many levels.  
actors brings "Hand to God" to life in a hilarious yet poignant production by Roustabouts Theatre Company in San Diego. It's a sardonic, over-the-top study of morality, faith and the human condition. Eye-popping antics unfold on the intimate Diversionary Theatre stage. It's an adult comedy with dark undertones featuring an x-rated puppet whose foul mouth expresses a sardonic flip side to its mild-mannered owner.  Roustabouts founder Phil Johnson employs his evocative direction to bring New York playwright Robert Askins's work to southern California. An exceptional cast of five shines with perfect timing and physical innuendo. Rebecca Crigler, Adam Daniel, Samantha Ginn, Dave Rivas and Devin Wade obviously enjoy their craft as they fine-tune each move and wisecrack. "Hand to God" is thought provoking, asking its audience between laughs, to consider the hypocrisy of religion and moral codes which ultimately contradict themselves.  The characters' body language and facial movements create a vernacular of their own.  Don't miss it if you're anywhere in the state, country or planet. A must for the thinking theater goer. (619) 569-5800 or visit www.theroustabouts.org.

Wednesday, March 6, 2024

Palm Springs drag show marks six years of fun, community service


 

Oscar's is a fun gig for both full-house audiences and performers, who rake in tips and work hard for them. The "Bitchiest Brunch" features emcee Anita Rose, right, and below ready for her close-up in another costume with  writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers. On Sunday,        March 10,
  the "Bitchiest Brunch" features Oscar's owner Dan Gore in drag on a zip line to celebrate six years of crowd pleasing brunches, at both the
10 a.m. and 1 p.m. shows.

 

.

OSCAR'S OPUS: DRAG, COMMUNITY SPIRIT AND A HIT WITH THE CROWDS

 


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

OSCAR'S in downtown Palm Springs is more than a nightclub, a restaurant, or a fun place to see a show.  It's part of the soul of this interesting and diverse city, a mecca for the rich and famous, a place for sun, golf and R&R, and a well known gay and trans-friendly town.

Oscar's Owner Dan Gore, aka Cheyenne Demuir,
left and right. He'll headline this weekend's
"Bitchiest Brunch" Sunday at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.

 
This weekend marks the sixth  anniversary of
Miss Bee Hiven takes a few
green kudos from happy fans.
Dan Gore has a long career
in the entertainment business,
from promoter to filmmaker.
He produces the shows and
owns Oscar's Cabaret.
 
 Oscar's weekend Saturday and Sunday drag show's, "Bitchiest Brunch," and owner Dan Gore is celebrating in style. The show is sure to sell out on Sunday, March 10, with producer and entrepreneur Gore dressing for the occasion and whizzing onto the stage on a zip line for two "Bitchiest Brunch" performances, at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Emcee Anita Rose has been with him since the brunch's beginning in Palm Springs, a town with a long, proud history as a gay friendly village.  In the 1970s and 1980s during the AIDS crisis, it was a place for gay men to seek treatment and refuge. Hundreds of people were treated at its medical centers where living costs and medical care were more accessible and cheaper than in New York  or San Francisco.

When the dancers' bosoms are
full, the tip overflow goes into
a money box carried by a rover.


THUS, THRU THE YEARS, the city developed a strong reputation as an LGBT-friendly destination.

The greenbacks roll in during a performance,
as dancers and agile gymnasts shake, rattle,
 roll, do splits, kicks, spins and turns for tips.
Here Luna Lafierce collects gratuities
while dancing and miming all the time. 
Today, the Palm Springs area has a flourishing LGBTQ base, and Oscar's celebrates that. We love to visit the venue.  It's lively, friendly and fun.  People smile and laugh. It's an oasis of kindness, acceptance and folks just out to have a good time. Many gay couples choose this desert city for their elderly years. Part of the weekend's proceeds go to the area's LGBTQ Community Center of the Desert, which provides a welcoming environment for all members of the community. Oscar's paves the way for understanding.

John Eltinge was born
William Dalton and was a
  famous 1920s drag queen
playing in New York and
London. He performed
 for King Edward II.

Dancing with audience members is
part of the fun at Oscar's with
quick costume and wig changes.
Here's Luna Lafierce again
with a new hairdo. 



Wigs are big, boobies are
sometimes pointed, and a
good time is had by all,
here with Diamond Evvon.




.












 SAYS GORE,"There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment." Does Oscar's have its detractors?  "Oh, sure," says Gore. "But of the skeptics who come in for a show, 70 per cent leave changed and accepting; 30 per cent just don't get it or buy it." 
Part of the fun at Oscar's is tipping the dancers.
Here a bride-to-be offers tips from her dress.
Oscar's -- named for a favorite dog -- is known for its programming diversity which welcomes both straight and gay audiences for its drag cabaret. Besides funding to the LGBTQ Center, Oscar's is also a generous donor to other Palm Springs activities and organizations.  On Christmas Day, Gore and his staff offer a free holiday meal with all the trimmings.  "Anyone can come and it's always packed," he says.  Other ways Oscar's gives back is through contributions to the local food bank, to Boys and Girls Clubs
Oscars brunches give way to
evening entertainment.
and other civic enterprises. Plaques of gratitude are framed inside with a wall of Hollywood performers who have visited. "We try to be generous to the community," says Gore, in the spirit of "giving back."
Tickets and info:
oscarspalmsprings.com


We photographed these charming Gentoo penguins at
Bluff Cover in the Falkland Islands, known as Islas Malvinas
to the Argentine people.  

UP NEXT:   We're on the penguin trail. From a popular Palm Springs drag show to penguins, we're at the tip of South America photographing those enchanting penguins. Depending on your source, there are either 17 or 18 species of penguins on the planet, 5 of which live in Antarctica. Another 4 species live on sub-Antarctic islands. We saw four species, and observed three up close and personal on a recent trip to the Antarctic. Penguins are charming, resilient and adorable. They were the main reason we traveled thousands of miles, cruising from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to see them and other wildlife. We hope you'll enjoy our upcoming story, remembering to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more. www.whereiscookie.com


  



Wednesday, February 28, 2024

Desert Symphony notes 35th season with gala, 5-shows, Sinatra singer

Palm Desert is a haven for sun seekers, hikers, bikers, lovers of the desert
and its beauty.  Since 1989, tourists and locals alike have something else
to attract them to this unique part of the country: the Desert Symphony.
The Desert Symphony
has a full orchestra of
60 gifted players, from
all walks of life. 

MUSIC SOARS
 ABOVE PALMS:
GRASSROOTS
EFFORT 
BLOSSOMS
TO PRODUCE A 
SYMPHONY WITH
60 PLAYERS AND
FIVE-SHOW
SEASON



STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

and courtesy Desert Symphony

Headlining the March 6 gala to celebrate Desert
Symphony's 35th anniversary are Daniel Emmet
and Pia Toscano, at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage.
The Desert Symphony will accompany the duo.
THIRTY-FIVE years ago, an ambitious group of Palm Springs residents decided to organize a symphony, to bring orchestra music and musical events to the area normally associated with golfing get-aways, movie stars and admirers of the desert, its relaxed lifestyle and scenery.

The Indian Wells Symphony was born in 1989 and soon adopted its present moniker, the Desert Symphony. With the energy of volunteers and support of local businesses and its enthusiastic long-time president Nancy Tapick, a driving force in the region was born.


The Symphony's annual gala takes place in
the showroom of Agua Caliente Casino Resort
and Spa in Rancho Mirage, on March 6. 
The reach of the symphony extends to future musicians in Coachella Valley, through programs for school children. "Our goal is to inspire them to become musicians and music appreciators," says Tapick.
The Children’s Music Discovery Series offers programs ranging from a string quartet to a wind octet, supervised by the symphony's music director and drawing from the talents of the orchestra, whose musicians have played with major symphonies in the country. The organization proudly encourages young musicians through scholarships.  Several have gone on to professional music careers. 

 

The Desert Symphony of Palm Springs presents five concerts
yearly, including popular entertainers, singers, musicians
and acrobats -- plus a major gala  fundraiser.  Performances
are enjoyed by both locals and tourists 
at McCallum Theatre. 

THROUGH THE years, the symphony has hosted -- and accompanied -- a "who's who" of popular performers, including its first big name, singer Glen Campbell.  A roster of other famed artists followed including Andy Williams, Jose Feliciano, Peter Nero, the Gatlin Brothers, Tommy Tune, Art Garfunkel, Roger Williams, Jack Jones, Kaye Ballard, Michael Bolton, Jason Alexander, The Texas Tenors, Neil Sedaka, Crystal Gayle, Melissa Manchester, Peter Frampton and recently, Mary Osmond.

Next up this season is noted singer Tony DeSare. He promises an evening of treats, celebrating the music of Frank Sinatra, who lived in Palm Springs for many years while touring the world and making films. The Feb. 29 concert is DeSare's second performance with the Symphony.  The first was so well received he was invited to return.

Singer songwriter Tony DeSare will headline
a concert accompanied by Desert Symphony. 
New York born DeSare promises to "do my best to conjure the magic of the music from the Great American songbook with a few surprises sprinkled in."  The jazz and soul singer is also a songwriter and musician and may take a turn at the piano in George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue."  "I’m excited to be working with the wonderful Desert Symphony again," says DeSare, about his return.

Then just a few days later, this year's gala features pop duo Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano performing at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage, Wednesday, March 6 . Cocktails are at 5 p.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m., and the concert at 8 p.m. The duo, discovered by Marie Osmond, presents a show, "Simply the Best." 

Through years of an impressive five-part season, the Symphony has earned a reputation as one of the finest orchestras of popular music in the southwest United States.

Glen Campbell was the first
big name to play with
 the Desert Symphony.
Many other stars followed. 

Singer Tommy Tune is one of many luminaries to
perform with Desert Symphony, now 35 years old.
In its early days, the season  featured great works from the world of classical music, including Beethoven, Mozart, Tchaikovsky, and Brahms. "The orchestra began a slow transition toward  “pops,” says Tapick, when residents and visitors expressed interest in lighter fare.  The board listened, introducing the present format which includes popular entertainers accompanied by the 60-piece orchestra.
The Desert Symphony has performed and partnered with the Boys and Girls Clubs of Coachella Valley, the Rancho Mirage Public Library, the City of La Quinta, La Quinta Public Library, the Palm Desert Public Library, and McCallum Theatre, where it presents its docket of five annual "star" concerts.
Two final concerts round out the season, a John Denver tribute concert March 27, and "Let's Hang On" April 11, a quartet featuring the music of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons.   

For more on the Feb. 29 concert, March 6 gala or the symphony season, call 760 773-5988.  
 
 
More is more at Oscar's with dancers, acrobats,
big wigs and lots of bosoms, eye lashes and make-up
Here's Diamond Evvon, with her chest armor
Oscar's owner and producer
Dan Gore as Cheyenne Demuir
will zip line from Oscar's 
balcony in drag March 10. 
UP NEXT: Drag is time honored, and the drag show at Oscar's in Palm Springs is celebrating its sixth anniversary the weekend of March 9-10. Owner Dan Gore plans a special appearance during two performances of Sunday's "Bitchiest Brunch." He will zip line into the house in full drag -- from the balcony to the stage area below. Risque fun is all part of Oscar's brunch birthday party.  Two Sunday shows will feature Gore, dressed as his alter ego Cheyenne Demuir, with Oscar's gang of beauties performing, too. Emcee Anita Rose as the wisecracking spirit of Oscar's keeps the fun and jokes rolling.  She has headlined the brunch show all six years of its run and is a favorite with the packed houses. Book a seat for  laughs, bottomless mimosas, endless irreverence and more. Oscar's also has a great restaurant and many other shows to consider. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature and family. Check out oscarspalmsprings.com/events/
and look for more arts and travel pieces at: www.whereiscookie.com

Thursday, February 22, 2024

SCAD sends artful ripples from Georgia, to Hollywood and the world

Bruce Keller poses in one of the many intriguing spaces in the SCAD Museum of Art, where
constantly changing exhibitions feature established and emerging artists from around the world.
  

SCAD: VISIONARY SCHOOL'S MUSEUM MIXES INNOVATION, IMAGINATION IN ARTFUL WELCOMING SPACE

An installation by Patrick Dougherty is part of the landscape
at the SCAD Museum of Art. Its weaving and bending of
sticks is in a way a metaphor for the museum's intent.
SCAD IS A WELL known acronym in Savannah.

Everyone recognizes Savannah College of Art and Design, because it is internationally famous. Art students from Iceland come here.  So do budding artists from Peru, Japan, Italy and many other countries. Multiple Oscar winners studied in SCAD's creative halls.
Christene "Cookie" Meyers examines
an interactive, playful piece using
oranges to challenge the visitor.
You can't walk a block in Savannah without seeing some SCAD reference, because the enterprise is  museum, school and community presence. With an emphasis on art and design, it has more programs than any other university in the country.
This piece focuses on the lovely museum, which challenges the mind, bends notions and knocks stereotypes into the stratosphere.

WE FOUND during two visits an intriguing array of exhibitions, all designed to challenge the mind and refigure our ways of considering the old-fashioned meaning of "museum."
Take for instance, the work of Patrick Dougherty. I first saw one of his graceful nature inspired installations in my native Montana at the Tippet Rise Art Center, a magical indoor-outdoor forum for art, music and nature.
We were delighted to discover another of his installations in Savannah. "Making the Birds Proud," which -- like the Montana piece --  uses vernacular building techniques and tree saplings to create a welcoming, site-specific sculptural building that twists, towers, bends, coils, and soars. "Walk right in, have a look," it seems to say.
At both Tippet Rise and the SCAD Museum of Art, Dougherty mixes his carpentry skills with his love for nature.  Other exhibits do this, too, in unique ways.  "Challenge" is the byword at the SCAD museum, where art, craftsmanship, and design open doors to the imagination and power of art, often encouraging participation from museum guests.
This Erwin Wurm photo challenges the viewer
to reconsider many things: style, fashion,
balance, always with a sly sense of humor.  
SCAD's buildings encompass
a sweeping architectural range.

 

WE STOPPED AT many works which invite touching and imagining in playful yet challenging ways.
Just as Dougherty bends and weaves twigs and sticks into tangible shapes, SCAD Museum of Art weaves and bends the imagination, encouraging excellence and high standards. Among SCAD students, guest artists and lecturers are "audacious artists and fashion phenoms," Academy Award winners, Grammy Award recipients and Pulitzer Prize winners, all dedicated to SCAD's mission of exploring the arts in thoughtful, novel ways. 

GENDERQUAKE,
for instance, invites viewers to acknowledge ways in which fashion influences culture.  Students find new ways to view and create, whether the medium be photographs or jewelry, music, film, television or furniture -- almost everything the human experience encompasses.
 
SCAD pushes the envelope, whether
in its classes and projects and in the
provocative exhibits at its museum.

 
Consider Erwin  Wurm, our favorite guest artist.  His amusing and thought provoking pieces push the envelope, eliciting smiles even laughter. In one piece, a perfectly dressed, high-fashion male model balances artfully barefoot atop a horse -- reins in one hand, briefcase in the other.
Among other varied and ever changing SCAD museum exhibits is one by Korean born artist Cindy Ji Hye Kim.  Her "Silhouettes in Lune" is an intriguing installation of paintings, sculptures, and a striking hand-drawn mural. 
The open, airy exhibition spaces at SCAD's
museum encourage taking time to reflect.
NEARBY ATLANTA is considered by many the Hollywood of the South, and that is due in great part to  SCAD. Its role in Georgia's growing film and television industry can't be over emphasized, because it is partly generated by an enthusiastic group of students and alumni from  SCAD.
SCAD's influence reaches
around Savannah, including a
fun "Beach" retreat visited
recently by Keller & Cookie. 
 

Founded 45 years ago, SCAD has spent decades guiding and grooming students for Hollywood. The school proudly reports 43 SCAD grads from seven disciplines contributed to 11 Emmy-nominated shows, including "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel," "Ted Lasso" and "Succession." SCAD's film alumni have also produced many Oscar winning and Oscar nominated films including "Black Panther: Wakanda Forever" and "Avatar: The Way of Water."

Grace Delaney and Robert May weave a magical chemistry
as two lonely Irish seniors who form a meaningful friendship.
 Humor and pathos merge in this artful production, directed by
 Christopher Williams at Scripps Ranch Theatre, through Feb. 25.
BEST BET:  If there's a way you can beam yourself to San Diego, an absolute "must see" production is "Chapatti," on the boards at Scripps Ranch Theatre through Feb. 25.  Two terrific actors artfully deliver the lyrical script by Christian O'Reilly. The play tackles serious subjects -- including death and suicide.  But, in typical Irish form, its story unfolds with a perfect blend of humor and pathos. It's one of the top productions we've seen of hundreds in this talented corner of California.  "Chapatti" is both the name of Dan's dog and a popular Indian flatbread.  Betty is a lonely cat lover, who helps bring Dan back to the world of the living. The sensitive production captures the complex dynamic of loneliness and the human need for companionship on a charming, compact set. Broadway quality all the way. scrippsranchtheatre.org  

Tony DeSare headlines
with the Desert Symphony
Thursday, Feb. 29.
 
UP NEXT:
A musical oasis in the desert! Come with us to Palm Desert, where 35 years ago a group of culture loving music fans organized a symphony orchestra.  Through the years, Desert Symphony has grown to produce a five-part season of popular
Daniel Emmet, Pia Toscano
promise an evening of fun at
Desert Symphony's March 7gala.

performances featuring some of America's best known performers, from Andy Williams and Jose Feliciano to the March 7 hit duo, Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano, who rose to fame in "America's Got Talent" and headline the Symphony's gala. There's still time to book tickets to the Feb. 29 concert by Tony DeSare, noted singer-songwriter, known for his wide-ranging repertoire of Frank Sinatra favorites, with a bit of Billy Joel and Elton John in the mix. Remember  to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on music, travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more. For tickets: desertsymphony.org or 760 773-5988. 


  

 

Thursday, February 15, 2024

Charleston, the belle of South Carolina, offers history, color, gentility

Charleston's marina is a busy but peaceful place with shops, restaurants, 17,000 linear feet of
dock space for both motorized boats and sailing vessels. It's a beautiful place to stroll, too.

CHARLESTON: CITY OF CONTRASTS AND BEAUTY WHERE OLD MEETS NEW, ART AND MUSIC ABOUND, BOATING, SPORTS, MUSEUMS, FINE DINING VIE FOR  THE VISITOR'S ATTENTION  

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
This vintage home displays the popular and
time honored "haint blue" southern tradition.

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

CHARLESTON, South Carolina, is a city of contrasts. You'll find modern shopping centers and new hotels, skyscrapers, horse drawn carriages and genteel homes from the Civil War era.

It boasts a beautiful harbor, the fort where the Civil War began and a gaceful bridge, the Ravenel Bridge, named after Arthur Ravenel Jr., a successful South Carolina businessman who served four terms in the U.S. House of Representatives.

Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Bruce
 Keller at sunset under the Ravenel Bridge.
 
The spectacular bridge -- also known as the Cooper River Bridge, is one of many attractions to this attractive town of only 151,000. The bridge is cable-stayed, the third longest in the U.S., and connects downtown Charleston to Mount Pleasant. It is designed to carry 100,000 vehicles per day, a number experts say it will reach before 2030. Last count, more than 97,000 vehicles a day crossed the bridge, which includes a well shared bicycle and pedestrian path.

You'll likely transit it when you visit this charming port city, founded in 1670.

Charleston from the water at night, a pretty sight.
It is defined by its cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages and pastel antebellum houses, particularly in the elegant French Quarter and Battery districts. 
Both Battery Promenade and Waterfront Park overlook Charleston Harbor, while Fort Sumter, a federal stronghold where the first shots of the Civil War rang out, lies across the water. You'll see it on the harbor tour we recommend later.

The Charleston Princess gives
visitors a thorough look at
the harbor and coastline, from
Fort Sumter and the bridge.


WE ASKED 
about the significance of the many pale blue ceilings we saw on Charleston porches. Why that color? You'll find out on a Charleston city tour, as we did with our delightful guide, Alan Rosenfeld. He gives a unique and entertaining city tour, explaining that the color, known as "haint blue," is associated with the  Gullah Geechee people,
descendants of enslaved Africans in parts of Georgia and the Carolinas. The word derives from their language and means ghost.  The Gullah people have maintained a rich cultural heritage. Among their traditions was the belief that haint blue repels haints, or ghosts. You'll find the color on thousands of southern porches.
African inspired crafts are
part of the culture and often
seen at fairs and markets.
 Established as Charles Town in honor of King Charles II of England, Charleston adopted its present name in 1783.

Charleston's streets are defined by attractive,
tree lined boulevards and parks. 
 
St. Michael's Anglican Church is
one of the city's historic buildings.
THE CITY is  home to the Charleston Symphony and many arts related events including an annual Wine and Food Festival, Charleston Fashion Week, Festival of Houses and Gardens, Flowertown Festival, High Water Festival and the MOJA Arts Festival, celebrating black arts and culture. For 17 days and nights each spring, the famed Spoleto Festival USA fills Charleston's historic theaters, churches, and outdoor spaces
Piccolo Spoleto Festival and a well known Southeastern Wildlife Exposition are also popular events.
A FUN OPTION is a tour of Charleston's historic homes.  Conde Nast offers a good one, hitting the city's best known and nicely maintained relics of a bygone era. (Link at story's end.)
Discover Savannah's charms
The Citadel, Army National Guard, is on
a unique driving tour we enjoyed
.
Fort Sumter is on most visitor's "must see" lists. The attack on the fort began the  American Civil War which lasted four years and cost the lives of more than 620,000 Americans. It also freed 3.9 million enslaved people from bondage.
THE CITY made the news with another shooting for it is the scene of the 2015 mass shooting at Mother Emanuel AME Church.
The gunman, a white supremacist, entered the church,
stayed for the service, then killed nine parishioners. Racism exists in Charleston, and in every town in America. But our New Jersey born guide, who is happily transplanted and loves Charleston, considers it a welcoming place with a pleasant mix of people from around the country.
Cookie rings the bell of the Princess.
WE NOTICED very little overt racism, but chatting with people of color, we learned that there is still subtle discrimination. "Inevitable, I think," one waiter told us. "People and old ideas and ways are changing, slowly but surely."


Excellent tour guide
Alan Rosenfeld gives a
lively overview. Book him
at charlestonharbortours.com.
MORE INFORMATION:
www.charlestonharbortours.com
www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-historic-house-tours-in-charleston
www.expedia.com/Things-To-Do-In-Charleston.d179997.Travel-Guide-Activities




Karole Foreman movingly captures the essence
of "Lady Day" -- Billie Holiday -- with Lanie
Robertson on piano in a fabulous two-person show
.
BEST BETS:
Fans of the great jazz singer Billie Holiday have just a few performances to catch Karole Foreman in the title role in "Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill." Written by Lanie Robertson, it's at Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, San Diego. This stunning two-person show features virtuoso pianist Damon Carter as Jimmy Powers, Holiday's accompanist, friend and confidant, who keeps Billie on point while the tunes seamlessly roll. Carter is musical director for the show, which features Foreman singing many of the singer's best known songs with a running commentary on her loves, losses and the racism, drinking and drug abuse that shadowed her life. Foreman truly captures Holiday, with all her gifts, lip and demons. It's a stunning piece of theater which left us absolutely mesmerized for 90  minutes. Wren T. Brown directs, from Ebony Repertory Theatre of Los Angeles. Worth a trip to San Diego from wherever you are -- even the moon! 619-337-1525, cygnettheatre.com. Through Feb. 18.


SCAD's Museum of Art offers beautifully curated exhibitions,
including both famous and emerging artists. You'll want to spend
 several hours in this artful, open, beautifully curated space.
UP NEXT: SCAD. That's the word in Savannah if you are interested in art. Savannah College of Art and Design has an international reputation and attracts students and artists from around the globe.  We spent an entertaining afternoon at the the SCAD Museum of Art, a  premier contemporary art museum  featuring emerging and established international artists through commissioned works and rotating exhibitions. We'll take you there next week, with photos sure to draw a smile. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, travel, nature, family and more.