Virginia City Montana road trip delivers the goods with a step back in time

If you're looking for authentic, old-fashioned fun, a vintage restored town and beautiful scenery, head for Virginia City, Mt.

A little train trip awaits, just a few miles between Virginia City and Nevada City, by a narrow-gauge railroad.

OLD WEST FLAVOR IS KICKED UP A NOTCH IN LIVELY, PICTURESQUE OLD-TIME TOWNS

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

Editor's Note: This story was reviewed and updated July 2026! This year, the University of Montana Western took over operations of the historic Opera House featuring the popular Virginia City Players to produce the troupe's 78th season.

Nestled in the mountains of southwest Montana, Virginia City offers visitors an authentic journey into the American West. Once a booming gold rush town in the 1860s, today it remains remarkably preserved, with historic buildings, a charming old hotel, wooden

Virginia City's Fairweather Inn is a charming two-story inn with period furnishings

sidewalks, museums, shops, and living history experiences that bring the frontier to life. Whether you're exploring Montana on a scenic road trip or searching for a unique glimpse into the state's colorful past, Virginia City is a destination worth adding to your itinerary.

MY AFFECTION for the area dates a half century back to my childhood.

The old-fashioned fire truck run by Scott McClintic gives history and a pleasant tour of Virginia City.

Growing up in the 1950s and 1960s, our family made an annual pilgrimage to this old-time treasure in southwest Montana.  It's historical beginnings go back to the gold rush days of the mid 1800s. Much of the place has retained the flavor of that rich, sometimes rowdy time when Montana was discovered by seekers of fortune and the accompanying riff-raff.

The Virginia City Players entertain full houses. The enterprise is run by University of Montana Western.

Thanks to philanthropists Charles and Sue Bovey, today's Virginia City recaptures the times. Bovey began restoring the town with vintage buildings and goods shortly after World War II.  He was fascinated by the period, when sluices lined the gulch and "cities" blossomed as trading and amusement centers. Miners flooded in, and others followed, in the tradition of supply and demand: ladies of the evening, criminals, cooks, vigilantes, shop keepers, bar tenders, cleaners, and grocers who commanded as much as $2 for a single egg. Virginia City was the best known town to spring up along the gulch. It survives! 

Virginia City Montana highlights

NO WONDER so many Montanans revere Virginia City Montana and like to show it off. It's wonderfully "frozen in time," fun to share with visitors who might enjoy strolling a colorfully restored pioneer mining camp. We recommend the Fairweather Inn, right across from the historic Bale of Hay 1863 Bale of Hay Saloon, for its period charm and comfortable rooms.

The Brewery Follies under the gifted direction of Mike Verdon are a must, with a fast-paced, racy show sure to entertain. A fine cast, talented musical director and the brewery environment guarantee a good time.

We traveled back in time -- pre-cell phones, pre-computers, pre-television and telephone to celebrate the Boveys, of the General Mills fortune. They bought up old buildings and repaired failing existing structures to preserve the spirit of the 1865 capital of the Montana Territory.

Virginia City had declined to ghost town status when Bovey and his wife began to pursue their passion. By the early 1950s, people were visiting Virginia City, with its iconic Bale of Hay Saloon, the Virginia City Players in the Opera House, and the venerable Fairweather Inn.

Lodging in Nevada City is rustic, but comfortable.

During our Virginia City Montana road trip we always take in the Virginia City Players, a must for theater lovers and a time honored part of the lore and lure of Virginia City. The Players' perform in the old Opera House presenting a spirited vaudeville show in the style of the Victorian music hall. Their ambitious season continues to September, offering good old-fashioned family fun.

For adults, the Brewery Follies offers cutting-edge comedy, lively music and a tour de force of comedy and satire featuring well acted sketches and songs by a diverse cast with "guest appearances" courtesy the talented Mike Verdon, delightful and right-on as both Donald Trump and Elvis.

Carefully restored Victorians are part of the allure of Virginia City. Some are B&Bs.

The Follies offers a sophisticated, smartly written comedy cabaret in the 1863 brewery. There, H.S. Gilbert made his mark and money after immigrating from Germany to quench the boom town's thirst.

 We were thrilled to discover the Wells Fargo Steakhouse serves a tasty steak and wonderful appetizers, a nice Caesar salad and several fish and Italian offerings. There's also a pizza parlor, candy store, ice cream place, a couple other bars and cafes. Pop in Rank's Mercantile, which has the feeling of an old-fashioned, artfully arranged sundries shop, with unique souvenirs, clothing, toys, books, gifts and specialty groceries.

NOW ON the historic register, the towns are owned by the state of Montana. Showing off an entire town as a National Historic Landmark is unique, so give yourself and your guests a treat.

https://virginiacitymt.com/

https://www.historic-accommodations.com/

Rome, Greece, Bozeman? A wonderful show is up at Museum of the Rockies.

"The Villas of Oplontis" brings us to Bozeman and the Museum, with  a look

at a thriving villa destroyed by the Mount Vesuvius eruption. An imaginative

show of artifacts and antiquities awaits.

UP NEXT: "The Villas of Oplontis" is a wonderful exhibit at Museum of the Rockies, which we visit next.  The wonderful Museum has a stunning planetarium and living history farm, internationally recognized fossil and dinosaur exhibit, plus much more.  The terrific new show about the life of a village near Pompeii is fascinating.

Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more.  

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