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Travelers' testimony: Happy people exist everywhere -- look around Young Japanese girls enjoy a stroll in Tokyo's temple filled Asakusa area. They show off their kimonos, greeting Cookie and offering their wares. “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” – Mark Twain STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Some of the best travel memories are not always famous landmarks or postcard-perfect views -- they are the people we meet along the way. In Asia, every street market, fishing village, bustling city, and quiet café offers a chance to connect with remarkable individuals whose stories shape the heart of a destination. Cookie communes with a grandmother in a small village in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam. The two talked about eggplant as "Ba" showed Cookie her garden. Our Asia bucket list trip is taking us on the road in Southeast Asia, and into Japan for a week. Everywhere, we've been surrounded by happy, gracious people. We've been offered tea, directions, dried insect snacks and a pair of month-old puppies. (The latter was tempting because we miss our Yorkies.) A tourist from Singapore meets Keller at a Buddhist temple in Vietnam. “Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” – Miriam Beard WE at whereiscookie.com have TRAVELED by train and tuk-tuk, elephant and rickshaw, cruise ship, taxi, bicycle, sampan, barge and junk to check items off our Asia Bucket list trip We've flown five airlines on seven flights -- from San Diego to San Francisco, across the Pacific to Singapore and Vietnam, to Bangkok, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Travel bloggers Cookie and Keller inside Tuk-Tuk in Bangkok with 2 friends Thai mother and child illustrate international traits: a parent's enthusiasm, a child's fatigue and perhaps indifference. We met legions of happy and content people in the five countries -- 15 towns and villages --we've been privileged to visit. Vietnamese girls, new friends, embrace Cookie on a shopping spree. What binds our fellow humans is simple. They like their lives, are proud of what they do. We travelers exhibit that quality on which Blanche Dubois relied: "the kindness of strangers." Our hosts have shown appreciation, curiosity, patience. We've tried to do the same. Travel forces one to trust -- in strangers, in safety of the new, in joy of discovering surprising foods or drinks. The pleasure of different ways of doing things. So we travelers cast aside the familiar and comfortable, and stretch. From Hong Kong to Saigon to Bangkok, scooters are popular transport. Who knew, for instance, that a favorite Japanese candy has pork flavoring in it, or that a sack of dried grasshoppers has the same amount of protein as a fried egg. THE BASIC things that bind us as humans are the same. We love our families, breathe the same air, eat, sleep, travel, dream. Whether selling kimonos or maple pancakes, leading a tour to another temple, explaining the workings of a gallery or restaurant, or ushering a group through a private home, our hosts smile, bow, offer beverages, share a slice of life. Paolo from the Philippines befriended Cookie and Keller aboard Celebrity's Millennium, with cocktails each evening. “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine THE PEOPLE we have met have run the gamut from retired, wealthy and carefree, to financially challenged, even poor. Some live three generations in tiny homes. Others know only mansions and five-star hotels. The simplest homes we visited were immaculate. The people who've served us, cleaned our rooms and prepared our cabins were proud. Our fellow travelers on lounge floors, tour boats, cruise ship suites, dim sum street stalls, and concerts showed respect and curiosity. I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” – Robert Louis Stevenson COMING UP: The waterfront. We travel the waters of major Asian cities, and sail and row in small villages. We look at the beauty of small boats, cruise ships, ferries, a floating restaurant and an endangered Chinese junk. Come along for the ride, remembering to explore, learn and live. Hong Kong Harbor, one of the world's busiest, sports the world's only working junks. Catch us Thursdays or any day when we post new tips on What to see and how to save money and time for global travelers at whereiscookie.com

Pick out a glass of fruit and vegetables to be blended with juices or coconut milk for a smoothie in Thailand. A buffet in any Asian country will always include plenty of colorful fruits and vegetables, here in Singapore. Fried insects are a crunchy snack in several Asian countries, here on the colorful streets of Bangkok. Asian culinary traditions: Bite into kiritanpo, savor dim sum, why not try sushi, curry or tempura. You may have to work up to fried insects such as grasshoppers and more. Be adventurous. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Hong Kong's famed Langham Hotel's formal banquet room, features a beautifully set table waiting for a party. DINING IN Asia is like going to an edible museum. Even the "eat and run" street stalls have a sense of color, texture and style as you enhance your dining with help from Asian cuisine travel guides. A bowl of noodles can look enticing, with a bit of garnish and chopsticks nicely crossed. Grasshoppers, anyone? But an elaborate feast in Asia, well, that is a treat. Cookie and Keller toast between courses on a river cruise in Vietnam. ASIAN cultures -- particularly Japan -- love to take time to enjoy a meal -- whether sampling only a bowl of delectable rice dumplings, known as kiritanpo, or partaking of a leisurely meal of fresh sushi. Serve up a side of sansai, or mountain vegetables, and the country's exceptional quality rice. We ate our way through eight satisfying days in Tokyo and another month of healthy dining in Vietnam, Thailand and Singapore, with a few tasty days in Hong Kong. Easy on the meat, because it's mostly a flavoring or accent. Fine with us! This fish section in Japan offers at least two dozen varieties. Fresh fish is found across Asia. WE VISITED villages on our bikes crafting our Asian cuisine travel guide. Our goal -- to celebrate rich cultures known for their savvy use of seasonal farm-fresh offerings and nature's bountiful gifts from the sea. Each country has a little dumpling like treat. We tried the kiritanpo-nabe, a delicious hot pot and staple of the diet in several parts of Japan. Stars of the dish are those tasty rice dumplings, kneaded then toasted. In a Vietnam restaurant, salads and soups are individually prepared and garnished with additional bits of veggies. WE SAMPLED several delicious bento, or box lunches, artfully prepared and a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. This lovely meal is a single-portion "food bouquet" in Japan. Asian cuisine refers to many major regional cuisines, including East Asian, Southeast Asian, South and even Middle-Eastern. A bento box often contains soup, salad or pickles, sushi and tempura. A cuisine earns its stripes with a characteristic style of cooking practices and traditions, associated with the specific culture. In Hong Kong, you'll find noodles and dumplings. In Thailand and Vietnam, lots of veggies and small-bites to sample, with more emphasis on spice -- particularly hot pepper. Asia, as our largest and most populous continent, is home to many cultures, each with its own characteristic cuisine. A friend has visited all 23 of China's provinces and swears each has a different, if subtle, method of cooking and serving its fare. WE FOUND some similar staple ingredients throughout our Asia visit. Rice, ginger, garlic, sesame seeds, chilies, dried onions, soy, and tofu cross borders and cultural lines. Stir frying and steaming are also found throughout the Continent. Fragrant green tea often accompanies a tasty, colorful Asian meal. While rice is common to most Asian cuisines, we noticed more varieties than we'd ever thought possible. The range hops from basmati on the subcontinent, to Jasmine, and many kinds of long-grain and short-grain varieties. I'VE A fondness for curry, and found that in each of the countries we visited. We also discovered dozens of noodles, beans and seafood throughout, and as many kinds of cabbage as we westerners have lettuce. Tea accompanies most meals, since Asian cultures know its detoxification and purification qualities. “Chī hǎo hē hǎo” which in Mandarin, means "eat and drink well." Stunning red rocks remind of Sedona, but, no, they're less than an hour from the famous Las Vegas Strip. Find out where next time. COMING UP: We're savoring the fabulous red rocks of Nevada next time. Come with us to a beautiful, unspoiled part of the West, just a half hour from the famous Las Vegas Strip. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend. Remember to comeback often to get the last advise and travel tips for smart travelers whereiscookie.com

The sampans navigate the harbor in Hong Kong, taking tourists around for 350 Hong Kong dollars ($70 a couple, U.S in 2016.) Tip to remember: You can get cheaper fares to take you around most places in Asia if you negotiate. The Hong Kong sampan is known for bartering and is part of Hong Kong lore and an Asia bucket list must. In Ha long Harbor, we were happily jostled about in our tour boat. Navigation to the famous caves nearby includes boats bumping each other. We have flown around the world to check off our Asia bucket list items. Ha Long caves tour photos we took and share at whereiscookie.com STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Tuk-tuk time for Sue, Cookie, John and Keller in Bangkok. "WE'VE FLOWN around the world in a plane. Been in traffic tie-ups in Spain. Rode in sampans, tuk-tuks, Treaded snow in mukluks, it's true." Awaiting the famed bullet train in Tokyo, we joined tourists from all over the world for fast rides. WE APOLOGIZE to Vernon Drake and Ira Gershwin for taking liberties with their song, but we couldn't resist the segue to our travel modes and highlights story. During a 33-day Asia trek, we sampled a dozen water-borne vehicles: ships, barges, cruise boats, sampans, even a Chinese junk. We saw couples riding motorbikes in Vietnam and Thailand (with the girls sitting daintily side-saddle), and we boarded a tourist boat for a joyously bumpy ride in Ha long Bay which took us to the famous caves. WE CRAMMED ourselves into tuk-tuks in Bangkok, enjoying the company of friends from York. It was our first time in the colorfully decorated, three-wheeled motorized vehicle used as taxis throughout Thailand. Stylishly dressed, this young Thai lady rides "side saddle" with her beau. Hong Kong's famous Victoria Harbor is another Asia bucket list place to visit as you get around in Asia. It separates the city from Kowloon, we sailed on a junk, the type that has transported Chinese merchants and precious cargo since the Third Century B.C. We also traveled by sampan, distinct because it is maneuvered with oars at the stern. Retirees make up the majority of the sampan drivers. INSTEAD OF hauling spices, silks, tea and produce, our lovely sampans and junks transported tourists from all over the world. On our junk, we sipped green tea and watched the world go by, circling the harbor three times, as the kindly tour guide indulged us and our seafaring delight. Hong Kong's famed junks are among the last left in the world. The junk is centuries old. IN VIETNAM, we biked past rice paddies and vegetable gardens, enjoying a close-up view of the musk oxen and water buffalo that farmers still use. This musk ox grazes in Vietnam, while his owner rests in the early afternoon. In Japan, another Asia bucket list adventure, we beheld a fast moving wonder, the bullet train. We took several rides on this super fast train, known as the Shinkansen, which literally means “new trunk line." We biked through rice paddies and enjoyed fresh air and visits with the friendly Vietnamese people. The bullet train reaches speeds of more than 250 miles per hour, zips to major cities and some small outer villages, and has never had a fatality (despite being shaken on its tracks during tsunamis and earthquakes.) It's a quick, easy way to travel in this efficient country. WHILE THE bullet train is known for its modern technology, older, time-honored modes of four-legged transportation are still in use. We saw both musk ox and water bison in the fields, and enjoyed talking to several of the workers, who proudly showed off their male oxens' reproductive jewels. "See!" a farmer exclaimed, holding up his prized bull's tail. "He has very large ones. Makes many babies!" COMING UP at whereiscookie.com: Point Arena Lighthouse is famous for rugged views. The historic Point Arena lighthouse makes a wonderful get-away if you're headed to northern California and Mendocino country. It's lovely gift shop features unique, handmade wildlife magnets, the museum has a beautiful French made lens, you can stay overnight in a guest house, and even climb to the top -- for a bird's eye view of passing whales!

Millions honor the fallen on all sides at the USS Arizona Memorial, where the valor and sacrifice of WWII is remembered. MILLIONS PAY RESPECT TO ARIZONA AND CRUCIAL 1941 ATTACK WHICH CHANGED COURSE OF HISTORY Photographer Bruce Keller puts down his photo equipment for a perch aboard a torpedo. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Carpe Diem Kids A VISIT TO the Pearl Harbor National Memorial in Honolulu is a must for anyone interested in history, culture and the complex results of war: death, violence, disruption, prejudice, fear, determination, recovery. We chose a half-day tour with Roberts Hawaii, and were met by the company's trademark green bus and a jovial driver-guide who calls himself Cousin Dave. He picked us up at the historic Ilikai Hotel, an easy half-block from our digs at Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort. We drove the eight miles in less than 20 minutes to the resting place of the sunken USS Arizona. There, at Pearl Harbor, 1,102 of the 1,177 sailors and Marines killed on Arizona are honored in their graves within the sunken ship. They were among the casualties when the Japanese engineered a surprise attack on Pearl Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941, "a date that will live in infamy," as FDR said. At the Pearl Harbor Memorial a young Japanese man studies the sad story of the internment of thousands of innocent Japanese Americans during the WWII years. THE MOOD was quiet and respectful at the Pearl Harbor Memorial as we joined an international queue with fellow tour members, including a Japanese couple our age from Tokyo. It was interesting to travel with them, and glean their take on the memorial. For while the U.S. suffered grievous losses, Japan suffered destruction of two cities and Americans of Japanese descent suffered loss and humiliation in the internment camps. One is in Wyoming, not far from where I grew up in south-central Montana. Docents with expertise in history give insightful commentary as Navy sailors pilot us to the Arizona grave. After checking our bags and backpack, we entered the nicely designed complex, which includes spacious walkways, museum buildings, artifacts, sculpture, a theater and visitor center. While visiting the Peral Harbor Memorial be sure to visit the USS Bowfin Submarine Besides the interesting boat ride to view the Arizona Memorial, the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park is part of the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center. The Bowfin, a fleet attack submarine, fought in the Pacific during WWII and helped to make famous the term, "Silent Service." Bowfin was launched on Dec. 7, 1942, exactly one year to the day after the attack on Pearl Harbor. One strolls the grounds past well marked torpedo's, missiles and other instruments of war, with fair-minded commentary and attention to suffering on both sides of the story. WE ALL KNOW THAT the attack was a pivotal moment in U.S. history, which propelled the U.S. into World War II with the backing of Congress and support of the American people. The Bowfin may be visited on the museum grounds. The monument also preserves and interprets the story of the internment of Japanese Americans, the battles in the Aleutians and the war's ending with the dropping of the bomb on two Japanese cities. There are other nearby attractions. Also at the Peral Harbor Memorial Both the battleship U.S.S. Missouri Memorial, on whose decks the war ended, and Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum are on nearby Ford Island. a quick bus ride away. A sculpture to peace makes a stunning backdrop for photos. The Missouri side trip interests many because the Japanese surrendered on board the Missouri in Tokyo Bay on Sept. 2, 1945, early on a Sunday morning, the same day of the week on which Pearl Harbor was bombed. The Aviation Museum hosts a aviation exhibits directly relating to the attack. On our boat trip to the Arizona, our elderly historian guide told us that three survivors of Pearl Harbor remain, all in their late 90s. They have been honored at the Arizona Memorial and have visited the 45,000-ton Missouri to pay their respects. IT IS NOT possible to go on board the Arizona at the moment, because of structural concerns. Repairs are scheduled to be completed by early next year. But our ship circled the memorial slowly so all 120 of us had ample time for photos and reflection. We were pleased to see so many students and people from all over the world at the memorial, quietly honoring those who gave their lives and the thousands more who suffered. Perhaps we are learning not to repeat the horrors. The Navy owns the land and the memorial is run by the National Park Service. We recommend Real Hawaii Tours. www.realhawaiitours.com Singer Willie Nelson is aging with grace and still on tour. His guitar prowess is still sharp. UP NEXT: Willie Nelson remains an engaging, entertaining performer, well into his 70s. This week, we took in a concert by the energetic singer-songwriter. The Humphreys Concert By the Bay in San Diego is one of two dozen on Nelson's current tour which began on the west coast, crosses the country and ends in Ohio. We take a look back at Nelson's career, his impressive endurance and his newest recording, out soon. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more. New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com #Travel Blog #Travel #Adventure #Culture Music n theater #WhereIsCookie

Jaws, a Galapagos tortoise, was born in 1929 and is one of the zoo's oldest and longest serving residents. He was safe at the zoo on Dec. 7, 1941 when Pearl Harbor was bombed. Story By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Waikiki isn’t just about sun, surfboards and cocktails. For us, it's about enjoying marine life, wildlife and creatures of the ocean. Add this winning duo to your Oahu itinerary: Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium. It's wonderful to find a perfect pairing of relaxing adventures just a short stroll from the beach hustle and busy city vibe. These two spots offer a lush, green, and watery escape, perfect for a slow-paced morning or afternoon. You'll meet critters from around the world at the zoo, and a "rock star" sea lion who mugs for the camera at Waikiki Aquarium. Visitors explore the Honolulu Zoo, greeted by signs showcasing the zoo's royal beginnings and a detailed map to guide their adventure. Lush greenery and welcoming signage create an inviting atmosphere. A Royal Walk Through the Honolulu Zoo Located at the end of Waikiki, the Honolulu Zoo is a 42-acre stunner. It’s unique as the only zoo in the U.S. to originate from a King’s grant of royal lands. It's just across the street and down a bit from the aquarium, making it a natural pairing of adventures. The zoo is a much loved, truly local, historic spot in beautiful Queen Kapiolani Park. It's a great family place with welcoming banyan and monkey pod trees for shade and plenty of play area. The delightful Waikiki Trolley navigates through the vibrant streets of Honolulu, offering tourists a picturesque journey to the local zoo and aquarium for an educational and relaxing experience. We hopped off the delightful Waikiki Trolley and strolled from the traffic and beach noise into this lovely oasis. We instantly forgot we were in the city. It’s lush, leafy, and filled with vibrant flowers, a calming retreat from Honolulu's fun but noisy bustle. We met the zoo's energetic community engagements director, Shelby Carlos, who welcomed us to this laid-back oasis. What a treat to find this tranquil zoo in a bustling city of 345,000 people. We strolled at a leisurely pace, past endangered rhinos and salamanders and a tortoise who survived the 1941 Pearl Harbor attack. We found a shady bench for our lunch and watched the giraffes munch on theirs in an impressive, expansive habitat. Zoo community engagements director Shelby Carlos poses next to an educational display about Hawaiian native snails, highlighting the importance of conserving endemic species in island ecosystems. Then we wandered to the noisy, colorful monkey residents, taking our time and never rushing. In two hours more, we saw lizards, iguanas, donkeys, foxes, sloths, penguins and the handsome state bird, the nene. The calming zoo atmosphere encourages contemplation and questions which helpful staff and docents are happy to answer. We enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere, the perfect tropical reprieve. There's an open, friendly feel between exhibits with artfully arranged benches and shady areas to take a break and soak up the surroundings. At the Waikiki Aquarium, seahorses elegantly hold onto coral, enchanting visitors with their fragile beauty. Diving Deep at the Waikiki Aquarium After wrapping up at the zoo, a short, scenic walk took us across the street to the cozy Waikiki Aquarium. This is not a massive, theme-park style aquarium, and that’s its charm. It is compact and designed for a quick, fascinating dive into Hawaiian marine life. Visitors marvel at the captivating underwater world in Honolulu's Waikiki Aquarium's viewing tunnel. It offers a fascinating, immersive experience while viewing diverse marine life. It’s amazing how much marine life the aquarium designers got into a small space. Seal trainer and exhibit aquarist Cydney Johnson is justly proud of the endeavor. "We have over 500 species, which is noteworthy," she said. "We wanted to give people a great overview of what Hawaii has to offer in its wonderful marine life." Her enthusiasm and expertise helped make the aquarium a popular school outing and a family favorite. She directed us to dazzling coral displays, a wonderful seahorse exhibit and to an engaging performance by Ho'a, the monk seal. We spent happy time with this endangered monk seal, a crowd favorite. Ho'a a captivating monk seal, relaxes by the water's edge at the Waikiki Aquarium, enjoying a peaceful moment in his enclosure. He is a favorite of visitors at this small but charming Honolulu attraction. Born on Kauai in 2008, Hōʻa, also known as KP2, is a Hawaii native and the aquarium's most charming resident. He was abandoned after birth for unknown reasons and rescued by scientists with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. He is a much loved, thoroughly pampered rock star at Waikiki Aquarium. This loveable critter has beautiful, expressive eyes and he brought squeals from the children as he performed diving and devouring techniques. He effortlessly gobbled sardines tossed to him by his trainer as reward for his performance maneuvers. It's a wonderful, educational spot to learn about the ocean life surrounding the islands, and it takes only about an hour to explore. Keller and Cookie cheerfully stop for a selfie under a majestic banyan tree near the zoo entrance. Why These Two tourist attractions? For us, a visit to Hawaii is about balance. Waikiki can be intense. Pairing the Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium offers a pleasant contrast: the zoo’s relaxed, landscaped beauty and the aquarium’s compact, ocean-focused education. This duo makes a perfect, low-cost, and easily accessible day. It’s "aloha" in its purest form -- unhurried, natural, and welcoming. Honolulu Zoo: A "must-do" for tropical vibes, animal immersion, learning experience. Waikiki Aquarium: A perfect quick stop for marine life lovers with a rock star monk seal named Ho'a who performs in regular shows. Hawaii's state bird, the beloved nene, a lovely goose, is on view in Honolulu Zoo, and you may see others wandering free as you approach the Waikiki Aquarium. The nene is a threatened and protected species. If you're in Honolulu looking for a break from the sand, these two spots are calling. Say aloha to the zoo and aquarium for a perfect Honolulu day! Our Tips: Bring sunscreen and comfortable shoes! Get on the trolley near your hotel (many convenient stops.) Hit the zoo first. You can bring or buy lunch. It gets sunny, so bring a hat too. Plan a few hours at the zoo where there's a lot to see. After lunch, stroll to the aquarium and plan an hour or so. Don't miss Ho'a and his antics and the graceful sea horses. More information: www.honoluluzoo.org www.wildlifeaquarium.org www.waikikitrolley.com Hawai‘i Nautical boarding area invites guests to explore sunset and whale cruises, private charters and more. UP NEXT: From pleasures on land to fun at sea, we take you to Hawaii Nautical's exciting array of ocean adventures. We look for whales -- and find them -- then stay aboard for a sunset cruise. Then we're exploring the wonders of Japan -- from Ninja food tours with seafood, sushi and other delicacies, unusual hotels and attractions from museums to Tokyo's spectacular tower, the intricate but excellent transportation system, temples, shrines and more. Remember to explore, learn and live and check back often for tips travel and stories on nature, adventure, cruising, performance and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

BEAR MAKES HIS MARK ON OUR SUMMER HIDE-OUT, BUT WE ARE ALL FOUR FINE AND 'BEARLY' UPBEAT Once inside, our bear searched for an exit and shredded bamboo blinds, and broke pottery, leaving paw prints galore. A buttery paw print tells the story. Mr. Bear ate lightly, but was anything but dainty in his exit. It is eerily human-like, a la "Day of the Living Dead." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE'D BEEN GONE just 50 hours from our home in rural Montana. High Chaparral has been a family sanctuary for nearly a quarter-century. Our guest scaled the countertop above the dishwasher, pulled down the knives, broke a butter dish and licked it clean. He opened a few cupboards, too. Montana Black bear encounter, insights, perspective We've had raccoons, mountain lions, lynx, elk, the proverbial deer and antelope, and of course plenty of mice, squirrels, voles, moles and skunks. (Nick, the male Yorkie, has been "de-skunked" almost as many times as he's been taken to the groomer.) The 1881 Log Room was the scene of the most damage, and the place of entry. Vintage photos were ripped from the walls, glass shattered and paw scratches on hand-colored prints. Now please don't accuse me of gender bias, but I call the intruder Mr. Bear, to simplify the telling of the story. WE PULLED into the drive-way, a Montana Black bear encounter is upon us. I trotted up the hill, as is my custom, to change the hoses, leaving Keller to unlock the place and unload groceries, our usual division of labor. "Cooks, come here," he hollered. "Can it wait?" I asked. "No. Pronto." "Are you alright? Are the Yorkies okay?" "Yes, but we've had a visitor." Boy, had we. And the visitor made one helluva mess. After a melt-down from the destruction in the log room -- I picked myself up, dusted myself off, sipped the wine Keller poured, and began a list of damages and loss: the craziest, a cube of butter and honey jar. I CALLED 911 (only the third time I've done so in my life -- the other two were medical emergencies for my late husbands.) Two deputies arrived from the Absarokee area, 28 miles away, in a speedy 25 minutes. Before they pulled into the drive, we called our insurance company to report the incident, still not sure if it were really a bear, as Keller speculated. Gouge marks from Mr. Bear's talons. There are dozens. While the police investigated our personal Montana black bear encounter, we continued our list of damages: photographs, curtains, picture frames, walls, canvases of oils, a treasured lamp, several lamp shades flattened when Mr. Bear must have stepped on them. The woodwork damage was the greatest. All three of the rooms Mr. Bear intruded bear his bear trademark: gouges, claw marks, ripped off door casings and trim -- accented with the buttery prints he left on windows. Here's where Mr. Bear broke in. WHEN THE law officers finished their investigation, they confirmed Keller's suspicions: bear or bears, probably young (two or three years) and neophytes in break-in. Mr. Bear did not go upstairs (thank goodness no one was sleeping in our bed!), nor did he leave bear scat. He did urinate on the beautiful carpets several times; the Yorkies were fascinated by that. Black bear in the Bruce Meyers memorial garden at our Nye Montana home Do we wish ill for Mr. Bear and his species? Absolutely not. He was being a bear. Period. As Keller said, "We're unhurt. The Yorkies are fine. Perspective, Cookie." And as my sister Olivia and my friend Ruth said, "It's a helluva story, Cookie." New York's skyline unfolds from atop Rockefeller Center, a CityPASS offering. The Big Apple is one of 17 U.S. cities the service covers. NEXT UP: Where is Cookie takes to CityPASS in New York, grabbing all the gusto possible in five short days. CityPASS offers savings for the city's major sites, including the new World Trade Center Tower, Ellis Island, the Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center, Metropolitan Museum and more. It also operates in 16 other U.S. cities, and in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Start spreading the news and take a breathtaking look with us at the Manhattan skyline -- and more. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us at www.whereiscookie.com

This bear is definitely a grizzly, as evidenced by the hump. He was photographed near Lake Louise in Canada. Several neighbors spotted him recently. The nearby Nye Church in Stillwater County, has had grizzlies in the yard and a grizzly is meandering the West Fork this week. HIGH CHAPARRAL, MONTANA, ATTRACTS WILD LIFE: LIONS (NO TIGERS), & BOUNTY OF BEARS AND DEER This bear in a neighbor's yard in rural Montana walked up on the porch! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE YORKIES survived the bear last night! He came very close to the place, drawn by the scent of the apples. He'd visited the night before but only to snack -- he'd feasted on the nearby plum tree so the apples were dessert. But bears remember and we knew he'd return. So we'd stripped the tree in the moonlight before retiring. We left Mr. Bear three dozen apples as a token of friendship and apology for turning his feast into an appetizer plate. We wouldn't mind sharing the apples, but in climbing the tree to reach the fruit, bears do tremendous damage to the boughs. We've had to whack away at damaged fruit trees until they resemble the Monty Python "mere flesh wound" sketch. The regal mountain lion - we've spotted him and his cousins in the Sonoran desert of Arizona and several times at High Chaparral in Montana. IT'S THRILLING to be privileged to watch Montana's natural wonders and gorgeous creatures this close to our home and "civilized" life. A writer friend cautions me regularly on the necessity of bear spray, but I've never purchased it and think my hands would be too shaky to press the nozzle. We do wear bear bells, though, on hikes. This black bear, colored brown lacks the distinctive grizzly hump. He wandered up the lawn past the house. NICK, THE male Yorkie, wants to take the bears on. He once chased -- and ran up the back of -- a grizzly who was drinking at the spring above the house. The bear tossed him off his back, growled and left Nick in the chokecherries. Fortunately he suffered only scratches, from the bushes! (Kind bear.) Whenever Nick sees a bear, he runs to the door and commences growling as if to connect in some primordial fashion. Both mule deer and white tails are frequent visitors and diners at High Chap. Nora has no interest. She takes to her fluffy red down bed, yawns, stretches, notices the Greenie her brother was too excited to touch, and looks at him disdainfully as she eats his treat. He obsesses. She capitalizes. BEING FEMALE, Nora has a sound sense of self preservation! (Avoid grizzly bears, sleep often, eat when food is available.) Recent sightings, ignored by Nora: Large bear at the kitchen window while I was cooking. Bears (mom and 2 cubs) while workers were here. Bear on the road by the house. Bear in our garden. Bear on the roof! (We heard and saw him.) WE SEE MANY of Montana's natural wonders here at High Chap, and we've five times spotted mountain lions. Friend Brad Smith snapped this photo of a bear on our garage roof, as he headed for a bag of pricey dog food! One circled the house a few winters ago, and bounced against a window, terrifying our sleeping cat, Nellie, who was safe inside on an Oriental carpet beneath the window. Another time, we pulled into the driveway at High Chaparral. The moonlight spotlighted a large mountain lion. We dimmed the car lights and watched him for 15 minutes as he ate the remains of a rabbit. We found cat skat on the roof last week! DON'T WORRY, friends. We're safe and very, "beary" careful. With plenty of respect and awe! COMING SOON: We salute at bittersweet autumn in the Beartooths, then we and have a few pointers for getting up close and personal with wildlife -- attracting them and learning what to look for. Autumn splendor comes to Yellowstone National Park -- next up: fall colors. We try to find fun and offbeat pleasures in our travels and photos. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us s at: www.whereiscookie.com

About to board a city harbor tour in New York, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause for a pose by a CityPASS poster. Their Circle Line sightseeing cruise is part of the convenient, money saving CityPASS. Unlock America’s Greatest Cities Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" There’s a moment every traveler knows well. You’re standing in a new city -- skyscrapers rising, cable cars rattling, waterfront sparkling. It's a feeling all travel addicts know. It's a rush of excitement and anticipation. But with the thrill comes the questions: What to see in the time we have? Which tickets do I buy? How do I skip the lines? Am I overpaying? Am I missing something? That’s where CityPASS tourist card changes everything. It's a top rated tourist card, one of the best around. Whether you're already in the U.S. and planning a trip, or are from another country organizing a visit to North America, you’re likely excited to discover cultural treasures and iconic attractions. If you're headed to New York City, San Francisco, Seattle, Atlanta, Houston, San Diego and many other U.S. cities, plus Toronto in Canada, CityPASS is your golden key. We've used it in many U.S. cities, and recommend that other savvy travelers take a look. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the "Top of the Rock," Rockefeller Center. CityPASS saves money. It saves time. And most importantly, it unlocks doors to a city's top experiences without the stress. Here we explain how CityPASS turns your trip into pure adventure -- not a logistical puzzle. It's a fabulous traveler's aid. Why International Travelers Love CityPASS tourist card Traveling is exhilarating -- but it shouldn't be overwhelming. Foreign travelers -- including the two of us on another continent -- spend time checking currency conversions, transportation systems, ticket queues in a different language… it all adds up quickly. CityPASS simplifies it all and here's how: ✔️ One easy purchase ✔️ Significant savings on top attractions ✔️ Skip-the-line access at select experiences ✔️ More time exploring, less time waiting The Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration offers visitors a fascinating look at history and the journey many of our ancestors took to arrive here. It's one of cityPASS options in New York. Instead of standing in line wondering if you chose the right attraction, you walk straight toward the experiences that define the city. Let’s explore what that looks like in several destinations. We've used CityPASS tourist card in five of the 17 North American cities which offer it. Here's what we saw, savored and enjoyed. With the Empire State Building behind them, "Keller and Cookie" are all smiles, surrounded by the city. 🗽 New York City: The World in One Skyline There is no place like New York City. It’s fast, diverse, iconic -- a living movie set. With CityPASS, we experienced the city’s cultural crown jewels without navigating complicated ticket systems. We loved the convenience and went right to the top of the line. Lady Liberty frames travel writers Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller, on a ferry ride to see the famous statue close up. It's one of the options on CityPASS, which saves time, money and stress. Highlights include: The breathtaking views from the Empire State Building World-class art inside the American Museum of Natural History A ferry ride to see the Statue of Liberty up close CityPASS saved us time and money. We watched a glorious sunset over Manhattan from 86 floors above the city -- then headed straight to the theater, with dinner after. Not once did we stand in a queue. New York feels accessible, not overwhelming with CityPASS. The Exploratorium is a museum of science, technology, and arts in San Francisco, California. Founded by physicist and educator Frank Oppenheimer in 1969. Here, Keller and Cookie pose outside the fascinating museum. San Francisco: Innovation Meets Bohemian Soul The hills. The fog. The Golden Gate silhouette rising through the mist. Welcome to San Francisco -- a city of contrasts and creativity. CityPASS here gives you access to unforgettable experiences such as: The iconic Golden Gate Bridge seen from a delightful boat ride Marine wonderlands at Aquarium of the Bay Interactive science fun at California Academy of Sciences and the Exploratorium CityPASS in San Francisco offers a harbor tour that passes directly under the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. International visitors love how easy CityPASS makes it to hop between neighborhoods. We went from Fisherman’s Wharf to Golden Gate Park, without overpaying for attractions. Instead of juggling separate entry fees, you simply focus on enjoying the city -- tasty clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl with sea lions yelping. The cool Pacific breeze. Seeing the exquisite artwork in glass by Dale Chihuly is a CityPASS option in Seattle. ☕ Seattle: Coffee, Culture & Sky-High Views If your heart beats for creative cities surrounded by nature, Seattle will steal it. Snow-capped mountains meet glass skyscrapers. Independent bookstores sit beside tech headquarters. An endless array of eateries offer healthy options including fresh seafood. Enjoying the sweeping Seattle views, with the Space Needle behind them are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. CityPASS in Seattle includes the Space Needle, Seattle Aquarium and more. CityPASS highlights here include: Sweeping views from the Space Needle Underwater magic at Seattle Aquarium Pop culture immersion at the Museum of Pop Culture And here’s the real benefit: Seattle’s top attractions are close together -- but lines can grow quickly, especially in summer. CityPASS helps you spend more time exploring Pike Place Market and less time checking ticket counters. More music. More coffee. More spectacular views. Most important: making the most of your time and money. Atlanta: Southern Charm Meets Modern Energy with Zoo and State of the Art Aquarium Atlanta is a culturally rich city with a wonderful civil rights museum, award winning eateries, vibrant art galleries and top theater, all served with Georgia's tradition of southern charm and welcoming spirit. Often overlooked by international travelers, Atlanta is one of America’s most culturally rich cities. It blends civil rights history, vibrant arts, and warm Southern hospitality. CityPASS gives you access to experiences like: Wildlife encounters at Zoo Atlanta Marine exploration at Georgia Aquariu College Football Hall of Fame National Center for Civil and Human Rights and other cool attractions. Atlanta surprises visitors with how dynamic it feels -- creative neighborhoods, live music, incredible food scenes. With CityPASS, you can dive into its attractions without second-guessing ticket prices. It’s smooth. It’s simple. It’s smart travel. San Diego's Midway Museum captivates locals -- including travel writers Keller and Cookie -- as well as tourists from all over the world. It features detailed exhibits, aircraft and inside the Midway itself, fascinating history. San Diego: Sunshine & Laid-Back Adventure If your dream includes palm trees, ocean air, and cultural depth, San Diego delivers. CityPASS opens doors to: Exotic wildlife at San Diego Zoo Ocean-themed fun at SeaWorld San Diego History and gardens inside Balboa Park Midway Museum The Midway Museum in San Diego is a featured museum with CityPASS in San Diego. Below, Sea World beckons travel writers and visiting family from San Francisco. San Diego’s attractions are spread out, and entrance fees can add up fast. CityPASS bundles the best experiences so you can focus on beach sunsets, tacos, and museum hopping instead of budgeting every entry ticket. It’s sunshine without the stress. How CityPASS Saves You Time & Money Here’s what makes CityPASS especially powerful for international travelers: 1. Bundled Savings Buying tickets individually can quickly exceed your budget. CityPASS packages them at a significantly reduced combined price. 2. Skip the Lines At select attractions, you bypass standard ticket queues. In major cities like New York and San Francisco, this can mean saving hours. 3. Flexible Scheduling You don’t have to visit everything in one day. Most passes remain valid for several days, giving you breathing room. 4. Mobile Convenience Tickets live on your phone. No printing. No paperwork. Just scan and go. CityPASS curates the experiences that reflect each city’s personality. Instead of guessing what matters most, you step directly into the highlights. Is CityPASS Worth It for International Visitors? In one word: Yes. Especially if: You’re visiting for the first time You want to see major attractions You prefer structured simplicity You’re traveling with family You value time as much as money CityPASS removes the mental load of planning every ticket. That freedom gives you time to be spontaneous. We like to stop at a hidden café, pause to enjoy buskers and their street performances. We like to stroll after dinner and find that our late-night walks offer cities in new light. CityPASS helps the traveler feel enriched, not stressed. For cityPASS information or to book: citypass.com Final Thoughts for Smart Travels Travel is an investment -- of time, energy, and money. We worked hard -- so did you -- and now for us all to enjoy and experience each destination fully. CityPASS offers discounts and organization, but it also offers confidence. Confidence that you’re seeing the right attractions. Confidence that you’re saving money. Confidence that you won’t spend your precious vacation waiting in lines. Whether you’re gazing across Manhattan, biking near the Golden Gate, sipping coffee under the Space Needle, exploring Atlanta’s vibrant neighborhoods, or watching sea lions in San Diego, CityPASS helps you focus on why you came in the first place: To feel something new, learn something unexpected, and have fun. That’s what great travel is all about. Italy's "boot" has treasures to explore, including many unique cave restaurants, with sea and cliff views. UP NEXT: We begin a three-part series on southern Italy and Puglia. This virtually undiscovered (by most Americans) part of Italy offers gorgeous scenery, reasonably priced food and lodging, castles, coastline and friendly people. It's easy and fun to drive there, too, exploring ancient caves -- many converted to boutique hotels and restaurants -- and seeing what's down there "on the boot." Remember to explore, learn and live, share these links, look for global tips and trips and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Southern Puglia Road Trip to Alberobello reveals ornate cone shaped Trulli Houses Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Ever feel like an extra on a movie set? A Trulli house stroll transports you right into a fairy-tale scene. We fell down the rabbit hole in Alberobello, the final destination of our three-part southern Italy road trip. On this road trip stop, we toured the fabled Trulli houses. They are unlike anything else in Italy, Europe or the world. They're magical looking, whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs and a "gingerbread cottage" charm. We'd studied the houses before our trip because our friend and Puglia native Manuella encouraged us to see them. "They are unique to our area and the world," she said. Our Puglia Road Trip's Trulli houses date to the 14th Century, UNESCO World Heritage structures built without mortar. "Why?" We asked our guide. She said it was a clever method of evading taxes. The roof of a house could be dismantled quickly, resembling rubble, then restored when the tax man was gone. Alberobello's 2-steeple church is the Basilica of Saints Cosma and Damian, built from 1885 to 1914. We wandered through narrow, winding streets lined with over 1,500 of these "beehive" houses. It is magical. The trulli (singular: trullo) look like little gnome homes. The thick, white-painted limestone walls are impressive, but the real star is the grey, stone-stacked, cone-shaped roof, thus the "cone house" moniker. These structures are a feat of ancient ingenuity because of the lack of mortar or cement. Building engineer and contractor Keller, photographer of our stories, called them "limestone jigsaw puzzles." The stonework of the Trulli houses is unique to this region of southern Italy. Tourists come to admire the stonework and history of the unusual cone structures, built without mortar. UNESCO World Heritage Centre Our Puglia Road Trip's Trulli cones have unusual tops. We spotted white symbols -- hearts, crosses, pagan zodiac signs. They supposedly protect inhabitants from bad luck and the evil eye. Most of the roofs are adorned with these mythical symbols and decorations. We made sure to visit Rione Monti, the main district where hundreds of these houses are clustered together, some functioning as souvenir shops, boutiques and cozy cafes. Fences, like the cone houses, are artfully built stone by stone, without mortar, on the drive from Bari. As we strolled Alberobello, we became part of a storybook scene. Shopkeepers display wares outside cone houses. Restaurants and hotels are renovated to emphasize craftsmanship. Friends stayed overnight, saying "If you really want to experience the charm, stay in a trullo guesthouse." They called it "a perfect, quirky stop." Cookie and Keller pose outside one of hundreds of Trulli houses in the World Heritage Site of Alberobello. History, highlights of cone-roof stone homes The trulli, typical limestone dwellings of Alberobello in the southern Italian region of Puglia, are remarkable examples of corbelled dry-stone construction, a prehistoric building technique still in use in this region. These whitewashed limestone structures date from the mid-14th century, featuring pyramidal, domed, or conical roofs built of corbelled limestone slabs. Although rural trulli can be found all along the Itria Valley, their highest concentration and best preserved examples of this architectural form are in Alberobello, where there are over 1,500 of these unique structures. Streets of Alberobello wind past cone houses toward the church. The occasional car seems out of place. The trulli of Alberobello are more than just photogenic curiosities. They’re a living testament to a timeless building tradition that predates written history. Wandering the narrow lanes, we noticed that no two trulli are quite the same. The unique tops -- spheres, disks, crosses -- are the signatures of the stonemasons. Keller, a builder and engineer, was enchanted by the tools found inside the Trulli houses of Alberobello. Top Tips for Alberobello: Where: Alberobello, Puglia, one of the most unique spots in Europe. Don't Miss: Rione Monti district and Trullo Sovrano, the only two-story trullo. When: Best to visit before mid-day or late afternoon to avoid crowds. We made a pleasant day trip, though, and never felt overwhelmed by other tourists. Comfort: Remember to wear comfortable shoes because the streets are steep. If time allows: Stroll through the quiet Aia Piccola residential area, different from Rione Monti with its 1,000 shops, cafés, and gelaterias. Trullo Sovrano is near the twin-steepled basilica. Aia Piccola is residential, with laundry fluttering from balconies and the scent of simmering tomato sauce in the air. Lunch idea: Alberobello has many fine restaurants. Ristorante Il Pinnacolo is a "repurposed" cone house with traditional southern Italian food and local wine. At a Trulli home, Cookie poses by an urn turned planter, a century old urn in a centuries old town. Final Leg and Road trip overview: Puglia Road Trip Trulli houses were the final leg of our Pug trip, we explored the heel of the boot. Our goal was to experience the changing landscape, tour the fabled "Trulli Houses" in a day trip from Bari. We left our hotel at 10 a.m. for the 55-K drive to Alberobello. It was a perfect day, back to the hotel at dusk, then cocktails, dinner and dreams of the Trulli houses. What impressed us the most after three weeks on the road in Puglia was the diversity, the mix of architecture, the blend of superstition and faith in the caves, homes and churches, the gorgeous olive groves, the friendly, proud and welcoming people. We packed a mix of culture, art, music, architecture, food and landscapes into two wonderful weeks. More information: visit.puglia.it alberobello.com Next Up: We're heading to Hawaii, on the trail of the natural world at two exciting Honolulu attractions, the Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium. And we hit the water with Hawaii Nautical, for an exciting day of whale watching and a sunset cruising. Next we spend a full but rewarding month in Japan, for a five-part feature on its wonders -- from fun food tours to inspiring shrines and temples and a cutting edge museum. We give pointers on navigating Tokyo's complex train and subway system. Then a rainy afternoon in the Honolulu Museum of Art with its world class collection of classical and Pacific Islands art. Honolulu Zoo's tranquil landscaping is a welcome departure from the bustle of busy Waikiki, just across the street. New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com

Rudolph Valentino inspired the writer's mum's sense of drama. A mother's love of all things theatrical inspires lifelong affection for drama, movies, costumes and the Land of Make Believe "I'm the sheik of Araby (without no pants on) Your love belongs to me (without no pants on) At night when you're asleep (without no pants on) Into your tent I'll creep (without no pants on)......" (Spike Jones, "The Sheik of Araby") STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and archives SHE WAS always my first birthday caller. She'd burst into the traditional "Happy Birthday" song, always adding in her perfect-pitch mezzo: "Without no pants on. And many more." Ellen Nystul Cosgriffe class valedictorian photo, 1945. The writer's parents, Ellen and Richard Cosgriffe, in the late 1940s. I understood the "and many more" part. Lots of people add that little footnote. Robbie, Ellen, Cookie frolicking on board the QEII. But the "without no pants on" part -- what the heck did that mean? After more than six decades of wondering, I decided to find out as my mother's own Aug. 27 birthday approaches. So here goes: That little addendum, "without no pants on," forever part of our family tradition, refers to the song, "The Sheik of Araby" and mum loved the Spike Jones version. The original song was written six years before my mother's birth, in 1921, by Harry B. Smith and Francis Wheeler who composed it in response to the wild popularity of Rudolph Valentino and his "Sheik" films. Mums was a huge Valentino fan. THE SONG lived on long after Valentino's untimely demise, and Don Albert's band recorded the first parody version with the chant "Without no pants on" between the lines of lyrics. Mum's favorite version by Spike Jones came later. Cookie and her mum, Ellen, had tons of fun, here singing "Side by Side." Fats Waller, Rosey Clooney, and many others besides Jones -- including the Marx Bros and the Beatles -- recorded their versions. Valentino died young, in his twenties, almost a year to the day of my mother's birth. He'd been in that great casbah in the sky for a year when Ellen Betty Nystul, was born Aug. 27, 1927, the only daughter of Gustav and Olive. As a child, she looked much like Shirley Temple with fetching curls and that same precocious talent. She could sing and tap dance, play trumpet and violin. She learned piano in a day, watching her mother, my talented gram, play. She was drum majorette, tap dancer, ballerina (I have her toe shoes, a red pair and a beige.) STILL A TODDLER, she began her lifelong love of theater, costumes, singing. Valentino's sense of style inspired Ellen, and a parody with the famous "without no pants on." When we Cosgriffes were growing up, we entertained in our small Montana town. The late Jim Annin ("They Gazed on the Beartooths" author and city father) often introduced us, "The Countless Cosgriffes." Ellen's memorial was a theatrical family affair. It began with just two Cosgriffes -- "Cookie and Peny" -- and grew to include the whole family. My mother always dreamed we would be a Rocky Mountain version of the Von Trapp family, singing a western "Edelweis" to an enraptured audience. WE PERFORMED cuttings from popular Broadway shows of the day: "Oklahoma" (I was Ado Annie, the girl "who cain't say no") and "My Fair Lady" (my brother Rick was a reluctant Henry Higgins, complete with English accent; we females were the extras -- flower girls in Covent Garden, the hatted Ascot horse-race ladies. Peny was picked to sing "Wouldn't It Be Loverly" to my piano accompaniment. In a sketch from "Annie Get Your Gun," we wore western duds for a bang-up "Doing What Comes Naturally.") Ellen's later years included theatrics and lots of dogs. Mum dressed us alike for our 1964 trip to the East Coast and the New York World's Fair, hoping, I presume, that we'd be discovered by a news photographer from NBC. I remember one of our outfits well: black and white t-shirts, black shorts and smart little red scarves. One afternoon, we walked from our hotel, the Waldorf Astoria, to Rockefeller Center. We sang "Give My Regards to Broadway" on a street corner, to amused New Yorker smiles. Ellen also enjoyed hats and wore this one to her granddaughter's wedding. MUM HAD dyed all our hair red -- hers was already a brilliant henna and my sister Peny had an authentic, gorgeous naturally red mane. Mine was not red enough for mum, so she touched it up a bit. The blondes and brunettes in the family became redheads, too. Daddy wore the t-shirts, but refused to submit to the Clairol bottle! I KNOW Valentino was mum's greatest theatrical inspiration for his sense of style and drama. She saw all his pictures multiple times, knew about his romances on and off the screen. She had a trunk of Middle Eastern costumes -- long flowing robes and scarves. She became an excellent belly dancer and performed her "Dance of Seduction" at her 25-year high school reunion! The writer knows her mother would have enjoyed Cairo's belly dancers. MUM IS responsible for my love of the Middle East. And my passion for costumes, dancing, dress-up and hats. I've played in pit orchestras for dozens of musicals, from "The Fantasticks" to "Man of La Mancha" and "Cabaret," in which I played piano as head of the bawdy Kit Kat Band. (NOT "without no pants on"!) Late last year, I returned to Cairo, where a buxom belly dancer entertained us, slithering up to Keller during a Nile cruise performance. I toured a real casbah! A casbah in Morocco. I've been to several exotic dance performances recently, including a spirited tango show in San Diego and a flamenco production in Las Vegas. I've donned a pirate girl hat on an afternoon sail with Cap'n Keller. "Come to my casbah," mum would whisper to us as little kids. "We shall make beautiful music together." Ellen's last public appearance in 2008, here at a reception with her daughter, left, and Hannelore Carter. THAT INVITATION meant come to the costume trunk. We'd squeal with delight and rummage through mounds of costumes -- orange and green can-can skirts, red and black flapper dresses, Victorian bustles, western skirts. And always hats! We'd decide on a theme, dress up and off we'd go off with mum to a world of make believe -- the casbah. And beyond. At mum's memorial, the clan gathered to tell stories, remember costumes, sing her favorite songs. Cookie and Keller carry on the costume and hat tradition inspired by Cookie's late mother! My mother: what a dame! She was inspired and inspirational. She painted, danced, traveled, lived with gusto. She invented recipes and didn't let a missing ingredient send her to the store. "Improvise," she'd say. No flour for the Thanksgiving gravy? Use pancake mix. Delicious! Everyone raved. SHE WON every masquerade ball in which she competed, whether dressed as a Russian Cossack, Indian princess or French chanteuse. Her prizes: three months of milk from the Columbus Creamery, a radio, 25 pounds of butter, a garbage disposal, 300 feet of garden hose, a free permanent at the hair dresser's! SHE WAS eccentric, no doubt, larger than life, an Isadora Duncan figure living in a small Montana town, surrounded by people who mostly didn't share her sensibilities or sense of drama but appreciated her talent. She yearned to "bust outta this little berg" and she did, saying "Good-bye Columbus" (Montana) to earn New York's Times Square -- Cookie and her mum loved it! advanced degrees and use her own personal struggles and experiences to help others. Although she's been gone five years, I still hear her voice on my birthday phone call. How I wish I could call her on hers and return the compliment. I keep her castanets on my night table and look at them every day. Sometimes I put them on my fingers and click them. "Come to my casbah," they seem to say. Thanks, mum. "And many more. Without no pants on." Santa Catalina is a picturesque destination for our travelers. COMING UP: Travel with us to "26 Miles Across the Sea....." The island of Santa Catalina is waitin' for us! Then we're north to Alaska, with a look at the pleasures of cruising the state's wild coast. Plus a study of the evolution of the Alberta Bair Theater in Billings, Montana, flowers under the Big Sky, Montana Jack's summer offerings and Rio's wonders. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out at: www.whereiscookie.com

Sailing on American Pride is an experience of bonding with the crew and fellow passengers, while enjoying the splendors of sailing on a classic vessel. Here captain Jeremy Schmich, right, gives a hearty thumbs up with sailor and photographer Bruce Keller on a Long Beach sail. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THERE ARE MANY pleasures in stepping aboard the American Pride and her "twin brigantines." Chiefly, these three vessels keep the old-time sailing spirit afloat and are educating youth on the importance of our oceans. Adrian Cerna is a devoted student of pirates and shares his knowledge in stories about the colorful sea bandits. The ships have the look and feel of that colorful bygone era when clippers and windjammers sailed the sea, vying for dominance in global trade, defending their turf with warfare. They are classic beauties and those who step aboard become part of a legacy of learning and wonder. One hears the sounds of the sails as they unfurl, and watches enraptured as the shoreline fades. There's an exciting rush followed by a feeling of serenity as these ships cut cleanly through the waters off Long Beach, California. Being on board is a memorable experience for lovers of the sea and sailing. AMERICAN PRIDE, the official tall ship of Long Beach, is a 129' three-masted schooner berthed in the city's picturesque Rainbow Harbor. The vessel serves as a marine education platform for youth, a floating classroom providing education and opportunities. At the moment she is on hiatus, being refurbished. She'll be back. Meanwhile two other ships continue her mission of education and public participation. Twin brigantines - Irving Johnson and Exy Johnson -- were designed and built in San Pedro as educational sailing vessels. At their launch in 2004, they were named the Official Tall Ships of the City of Los Angeles, an important collaborator. Lifelong sailor Bruce Keller was invited to the helm where he took the wheel for a few special moments, a thrill for him. LONG BEACH and San Pedro have long boasted an enthusiastic sailing community. The sailing bug hit the area big time in 2018 when Los Angeles Maritime Institute acquired American Pride, already named the official Tall Ship of the city. Soon, the Children's Maritime Institute was formed as their Long Beach division to educate students on man's crucial connection to the sea. Shortly before American Pride went in for repair, we were invited aboard with an enthusiastic group of fellow sailors, mainly adults. Young people sail her on special outings sponsored by the non-profit Institute, which owns and operates the vessel. The thrill of sailing shows on the faces of school children, learning the ropes of sailing. --photo courtesy of Children's Maritime Institute An excited crew member said she's witnessed impressive growth in children as they immerse themselves in the sailing field trips. "They step aboard as complete novices, and you see the confidence grow as they literally learn the ropes." So while they enjoy a fun outing, it is also a serious learning experience as young sailors study marine biology, environmental science, navigation, teamwork, and, naturally, the art of sailing. On our shoreline sail, everyone on board was passionate -- from the captain to crew to us lucky passengers. We met a recently engaged couple from Los Angeles, checking the boat out for their wedding reception. ONE LONG married couple from Long Beach were out for a regular Sunday sail. The wife said, "We come to celebrate being alive on these ships." They held hands, smiled and relaxed, enjoying time together on a lovely afternoon. Twin brigantines, Irving Johnson & Exy Johnson were built in San Pedro as educational sailing vessels. They are official tall ships of Los Angeles. --photo courtesy of Children's Maritime Institute Each year, hundreds of school kids come aboard. Says Liz Reinhardt, director of development and a devoted backer, "As a non-profit, we are dependent upon our wonderful community support." Grants and corporate support help the Institute and the older Los Angeles Maritime Institute insure that no child be turned away because of lack of funding. Captain Jeremy Schmich observed, "These popular sailing field trips are important. We teach young sailors marine biology, environmental science, navigation, teamwork, and how to sail. So many benefits..." THERE IS still time to register for or inquire about this summer's activities. On tap are a day camp out of Rainbow Harbor, and both five and 12-day sleepaway camps departing from downtown San Pedro. On a breezy day, deckhands and passengers collaborate on hoisting the sails. It's good to bring layers on any sail. Monthly Sunset Sails continue, too, inviting the community to "come aboard our tall ships, sit back and relax or take part in helping the crew set the sails," says Reinhardt. Tickets must be purchased in advance for two upcoming sails: Father's Day Sunset Sail on Sunday, June 15, 6-8:30 p.m., ($60 and $30 for children 12 and under) and a special July Fireworks Sail on Saturday, July 5, 7-10 p.m. ($75 and $30.) Private charters may also be booked, offering a relaxing venue for team building, Reinhardt says. "We happily book corporate events, family celebrations, photo and video shoots and more." American Pride in her glory at full sail. She can hold 100 passengers and six crew;59 passengers can overnight on her. Volunteers are welcome and can be trained as deckhands and earn sea time, she explained. FOR LIFELONG sailor Bruce Keller, an afternoon on American Pride provided "a satisfying and peaceful sailing experience that promotes love of the sea. What a thrill to help set the sails. A top notch time." Public weekend sailings help fund and promote the youth education arm. The program's focus is to foster a love of sailing and personal confidence building in young sailors. "For me, as a kid, sailing changed my life and gave me confidence both on land and sea," said Keller. Free deck tours, hands on activities and more shoreline sails are planned. The Long Beach and Los Angeles ports and institutes collaborate on myriad events. Their unique sailing programs are enjoyed by tourists and residents from all over southern California and beyond. The people we met emphasized twin pleasures: relaxation for sailors and the opening of doors for youth. Reinhardt is proud that under-resourced schools and communities in the Los Angeles area benefit from the generosity of donors who support the program. "Some of these kids have never been on the sea, so it's Lovely sunset view from American Pride. mind opening," said a woman who sponsors her grandkids for summer programs. "It teaches them so much: not just sailing but self reliance, co-operation, learning about the environment and doing their bit to save our precious oceans." A CAPSULE OF the colorful history of American Pride: She was built as a two-masted "schooner-dragger" -- an eastern rigged trawler known as Virginia -- and spent 40 years as a commercial fishing vessel. She was completely restored in 1986, when she acquired her third mast, renamed Natalie Todd and operated as a charter boat out of Bar Harbor, Maine. In October 1996, the American Heritage Maritime Institute purchased her. She transited the Panama Canal to her new home in California. She operates under Children's Maritime Institute, the Long Beach division of Los Angeles Maritime Institute. The mission: sailing training, maritime education and living history sharing. More information on scheduling , tours, rental options, summer camps, and the two upcoming weekend sails June 15 and July 5: https://lamitopsail.org www.childrensmaritime.org Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on a stop with Big Bus Tours in Sydney, Australia, a recent trek for the two. UP NEXT: Big Bus beckons. We take Big Bus Tours on our worldwide jaunts. The time honored agency operates out of many major U.S. and other famous cities. We enjoy lively narratives, friendly drivers, easy "hop on and hop off" options, free WiFi and more in both a new city or cities we know and love and are revisiting. Come along to explore in Sydney, Singapore, San Francisco, Tokyo, New York and more, hopping on and off in as we explore, learn and live. Join us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com More on Big Bus Tours, click below

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" The cave houses of Matera were occupied for centuries in the UNESCO heritage site of Matera. Then in the 1950s, they fell into disrepair and squalor. Many are "repurposed" as elegant restaurants, shops and boutique hotels. Until the 1950s, hundreds of families lived in the cave houses of southern Italy. We designed our Southern Puglia Road Trip to see these wondrous structures. Cattle shared cave homes with families, sleeping behind the bed. Chickens roamed the kitchen, children shared clothing and everyone slept in a single bed or on the floor. Hygiene was not up to modern standards so 75 years ago, public outcry forced health inspectors decided to clean up the caves, moving 20,000 residents to modern housing. In a restored cave house, presented as it was lived in for centuries, Cookie admires the bedroom where cattle slept near the humans' bed. While many of the caves are now shops and eateries, a few were kept for tourists. Exploring Matera today is stepping into the world's oldest continuously inhabited city. These aren't just holes in the wall, the hovels they once were. Families lived in these limestone warrens with their livestock, lacking electricity, ventilation, or clean water. Now they are cozy, ancient dwellings. Some have been turned into unique places to stay on a Southern Italy road trip. They've been artfully converted from the primitive caves inhabited for centuries. A few cave houses were preserved as they were and are fascinating tourist attractions. Others have been converted to appealing restaurants, hotels and shops. Matera is a fascinating grouping of caves, homes, cafes, shops and churches. Some of the cave homes have been restored and are offered as tourist attractions, with guided tours available. Our southern Italy road trip led us to tour a restored cave house in Matera's Sassi di Matera district. It was cool, quiet, and felt welcoming. Docents explained how the family lived as we walked through, fascinated by the compact kitchen, and the cattle behind the bed. The walls were thick, white, and uneven, with high vaulted ceilings. The air smelled of old stone, olive oil, and the nearby sea breeze, no longer "the shame of Italy" as the houses were once called. Cookie and Keller pause in Matera's "Sassi" area, an appealing maze of ancient structures, some homes and others repurposed as shops, restaurants and hotels. This area is known for its cafes serving local cuisine. The Great Rebirth The caves were left to the ghosts, abandoned for decades as silent, crumbling ruins. But the tide turned in 1993 when UNESCO recognized the Sassi of Matera as a World Heritage site, sparking a movement to breathe life back into the stone. Artists and visionaries began returning, seeing beauty where others saw decay. They didn't just rebuild; they carefully restored. The transformation followed a unique "albergo diffuso" model -- a "scattered hotel" where rooms are tucked into different caves along the winding alleys, allowing the town itself to serve as the lobby. Modern Magic: Ancient cisterns that once collected rainwater are now candlelit spas. Cave houses where cattle once stayed are appealing restaurant Cave Houses of Puglia This is a view from a cave lodging, Hotel Sassi, in the heart of the centuries old Sassi area of Matera. Walk into a living museum of stone and light, where honey-colored cliffs conceal homes, chapels, and alleys carved by hand. If you’re planning Southern Italy travel, this is a place where history isn’t behind glass; it’s under your feet, on the walls, and in the limestone dwellings that have evolved from shelters to stylish stays and cultural landmarks. The James Bond movie, "No Time to Die," was partly filmed in Matera, with scenes in this ancient courtyard. Matera Overview and James Bond Matera seems to have existed forever. Only Aleppo and Jericho have similar history -- 10,000 years of habitation. The rock caves, the rocky Murgia of Matera and primitive dwellings of the Sassi tell of ancient people and long ago times. Movie makers were attracted and chose Matera for the opening scenes of "No Time to Die." The city, with its UNESCO World Heritage-listed ancient historic center, offered the perfect backdrop to reflect the sophisticated yet rough and authentic atmosphere that characterizes the James Bond films. Our guide pointed out filming spots on tours. He also noted the Mafia's influence in Matera, which he said is still present through its role in various local services, managing economic competition, and settling scores, as reported by anti-mafia prosecutors and criminologists. Where to Stop: Belvedere di Murgia Timone: A viewpoint across the gorge (Gravina) providing the best view of the entire Sassi skyline, especially at sunset. Tibetan Bridge of the Gravina: An adventurous, high suspension bridge crossing the canyon. MUSMA Museum: The Museum of Contemporary Sculpture, uniquely housed in a 17th-century cave palace. This jolly mannequin invited Keller and Cookie to a feast including sardines and Matera's famous bread. Unique Cultural & Culinary Tips: Taste Matera Bread: Try the local, protected PGI bread, known for its distinct shape and crunchy crust. Crypt of the Original Sin: Known as the "Sistine Chapel" of rock churches, located outside the city center, featuring 1000-year-old frescoes. Sassi in Miniature: A detailed, indoor, stone-carved model of the city. Best Time to Visit: Matera is beautiful year-round, but spring and autumn offer lovely walking weather. Sunset is magical when the cave lights turn on, creating a live nativity scene. Tips for Visiting: Wear sturdy walking shoes as the streets and stairs are uneven and steep. Matera stands on a ravine-edge plateau in the Basilicata region, a dramatic setting that shaped how people lived, worshiped, and worked for millennia. It offers a layered timeline visible in its rock-cut architecture and maze-like quarters. We included it in our southern Italy road trip, for Matera combines evocative history with modern comforts. The onetime symbol of poverty is now a balanced mix of artisan workshops, galleries, trattorias, and boutique accommodations. As our guide said, "The Cave Houses of Matera are not static relics; they are a living blueprint of adaptation." Simple grotto shelters are sophisticated hospitality venues. We wandered through narrow lanes, stopping to examine graves. We heard wind whistling through corridors, bells ringing from hilltop churches, sounds of a vibrant community. This blend of ancient stone and contemporary culture makes Matera unforgettable. A tour group inspects Matera's ancient cemeteries, dating back to the Paleolithic and Byzantine era, now just indentations in the rock, yielding clues into life centuries ago In Depth: the Sassi Region Specifically The Sassi of Matera are the heart of the cave house phenomenon. Two districts, Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, are dwellings carved directly into the limestone rock. As the caves sheltered early inhabitants, they provided natural insulation against the elements. Gradually, over centuries, the people expanded and connected their caves, creating a complex fabric of homes, churches, shops, communal spaces and graves. The Sassi is a maze of alleys, stairways and terraces revealing the ingenuity of past generations. Matera dates back centuries, beyond 10,000 BCE. Here, a section of ancient dwellings await exploration. The UNESCO designation highlights the cultural and historical importance of the Sassi, recognizing the area as a unique example of rock-cut settlement that has survived through continuous human use. The "repurposed" cave houses have become boutique hotels, restaurants, and museums, offering visitors a chance to experience history firsthand. Exploring the Rock Churches of Matera Our guide wanted us to see cave rock churches, "remarkable cultural treasures," he said. The churches, carved into the rock, feature frescoes dating back to the Byzantine era. The Church of Santa Maria de Idris and the Crypt of the Original Sin are the most famous. We explored these sacred spaces to admire well-preserved frescoes depicting biblical scenes and saints. The churches provide insight into the spiritual life of Matera’s inhabitants and the artistic traditions that flourished in isolation. A cave hotel offers a chance to enjoy comforts of the modern world while staying in a centuries old "repurposed" cave. Many of Matera's ancient caves are now boutique hotels, attractive shops and popular restaurants. Staying in Cave Hotels One of the most unique experiences in Matera is staying in a cave hotel. They blend ancient architecture with modern amenities, offering a cozy and atmospheric stay. Many cave hotels feature stone walls, vaulted ceilings, and natural light filtering through small openings. Trulli houses, also called "cone houses" are a must-see in Puglia. They are fascinating because they were built without mortar, using a dry-stone technique which allowed quick dismantling to avoid taxes. COMING UP: Cone houses, called "Trulli," are another fascinating must-see attraction in Puglia. Come along as we finish our series on Italy's boot, a road trip of Puglia...Trulli are traditional, whitewashed limestone dwellings in Italy's Puglia region, specifically the Itria Valley, known for their iconic conical roofs and UNESCO-listed status in Alberobello. New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com