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- Vital, voluptuous Venice speaks to the romantic's soul
The gondolier is perhaps the most famous symbol of Venice. Here, he makes his maneuver with passenger in tow. FAMOUS CITY DELIVERS FOOD, FLAIR, FUN, ART, HISTORY AND SINGING GONDOLIERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller, arriving in the evening, toast Venice with a view of the lagoon in starlight, from Hilton Molino Stucky. MORE THAN any other city in the world, Venice speaks to the soul of the romantic. There's history at every turn, and romance just around the corner in this enchanting city. You'll see couples strolling and stealing a kiss on the Bridge of Sighs, as old ladies put down their canvas bags of cucumbers and fish to admire the young lovers, perhaps remembering when they did the same thing. Piazza San Marco, known as St. Mark's Square, a famous Venetian landmark. The Bridge of Sighs -- with its lovely white limestone -- is one of the remarkably well preserved bridges in the city Napoleon loved. He called the famous Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square) "the most beautiful drawing room in Europe." Venice is a city for celebration and has been for centuries. Among the notables who visited and bought homes are Noel Coward, Oscar Wilde and Cole Porter. Our knowledgeable gondola driver pointed out Coward's palazzo, between bursts of Italian arias. WE BASED our recent stay at the lovely Hotel Hilton Molino Stucky, a converted flour mill with a million dollar view of the lagoon and picturesque Venice skyline. Set on the peaceful banks of Giudecca Island, the Hilton Molino Stucky is refurbished with gorgeous antiques, elegant Murano glass pieces and rich mahogany furniture. Peggy Guggenheim turned her millions into one of the world's most prestigious art collections in Venice. This Venetian masterpiece features a rooftop swimming pool and the largest spa in town. Its, modern amenities fit nicely in a centuries old environment. Everything about Venice seems unique. We boarded the hotel's complimentary water taxi after a delightful breakfast of meats, cheeses, warm pastries and cappuccino and in less than 10 minutes were making the short walk to Piazza San Marco. The heart of the Venice draws tourists from around the globe and we joined the throngs of admirers to take a selfie or two. The atmosphere is one of carnival -- everyone seems happy, and why not? St Mark's Square is like an enormous stage, with a dozen restaurants offering everything from a slice of pizza to a gourmet feast, beverages and sweets, seafood plucked from the nearby ocean and of course champagne if you're celebrating a visit or return to one of the planet's most famous cities. View of Venice from the rooftop bar of Hilton Molino Stucky. OUR GOAL was two-fold: a visit to The Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and a half-day trip to the famous lagoon islands near Venice. The Guggenheim is one of several world class museums and you'll want to see the Frari, Venice's largest church, filled with artistic masterpieces. Strolling along the canals is one of the great pleasures. The Guggenheim is one of the most visited attractions in Venice. Guggenheim, a self-described contemporary art addict, amassed her astonishing collection in Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, one of the city's distinctive buildings. It's fun to linger in Venice, and guess if there are more pigeons or people. Elizabeth Barrett Browning write in 1851 that the hungry birds in St. Mark's Square descended on her husband, poet Robert Browning "like a cloud." We'd taken the elevator to the loggia in the 323-foot-high campanile before, so passed this time. But it is a breathtaking view of Venice in its vast misty lagoon. Manning his souvenir stand, a merchant reads the news. Beyond the square, Venice is a delight to explore on foot -- a joyous jumble of marble, orange rooftops, twisting canals, majestic domes, church spires and marble. You must pause, too, for a famous Venetian ice cream. We like to munch our way through the appetizer menus posted in front of the cafes: shrimp, squid, cheeses, salads, pastries. Our favorite way to dine in southern Europe is by "grazing" -- fun, tasty and reasonably priced. You can bargain for a gondola ride, too. Plan at least $100 for 25 minutes. Serenade included! The pretty pastel houses of Burano make for lovely photos. UP NEXT : While we're in the neighborhood, consider a visit to the quaint and quiet "lagoon islands" near Venice. Murano, Burano and Torcello are a world apart from the cultural overload of Venice. Each has its own distinct personality and charm, with beautiful small churches, local crafts and fun little restaurants serving fresh pasta, local fish and homegrown vegetables. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a novel slant on travel, the arts, nature and family, at whereiscookie.com
- Italy's 'lagoon islands' -- beautiful Burano, Murano, Lido and Torcello
The quaint, colorful fishing village of Burano also boasts some of the world's finest lace and high-end clothing shops. MINUTES FROM VENICE BUT A WORLD AWAY, A QUARTET OF CHARMING ISLANDS BECKONS THE TOURIST STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A master craftsman demonstrates his glass-making skills on Murano. WHEN IN VENICE , don't miss the opportunity to take a sidetrip to the lovely and nearby lagoon islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello and Lido. We've been happy with over a dozen Viator tours (the word means traveler). The lagoon island tour was delightful. These languid, colorful islands are a world apart from the hustle and bustle of St. Mark's Square and each has a distinct personality. Quiet Murano has been a center of glass-making since the 13th century. It is a fascinating half-day trip, with pleasant cafes and lovely gardens near the boat launch. Murano has a "villagy" feel, with the main attraction the glass shop, laid-back cafes, and small, simple stores. BURANO, ON the other hand, seems designed with The shops of Burano are beautifully designed and high-end. tourism in mind. The shops are upscale and offer high-end clothing center near the Burano is a thriving fishing village with quaint pastel colored homes and a centuries-old lace making tradition. Newlyweds George and Amal Clooney leaving Torcello in 2014. Torcello, once vigorous, is now scarcely populated -- less than 100 people actually live full-time on the island. But its beauty, charm and a couple of lovely hotels attract celebrities and the rich and famous. Actor George Clooney chose Torcello for his wedding a couple years ago to a British-Lebanese hybrid and successful attorney. The Belmond Hotel Cipriani is legendary, with gorgeous views of Venice proper from the island of Lido. Lido is mostly about one of the great hotels of the world, the Belmond Cipriani with its stunning views across the water, to the Doge's Palace and beyond. As one of the most celebrated luxury hotels in southern Europe, this elegant hideaway features exquisite antiques and local artifacts, Michelin-starred gastronomy, gracious help and Venice's only Olympic-sized swimming pool. I've sipped several Campari-with-sodas there. Elegant shops abound in Burano, famous for its fashion and homemade lace. WE HIT all these islands in a single day, visiting Murano first, a world renowned center of glassmaking for over 700 years. The island was settled by the Romans and was a prosperous fishing port and salt producer until the 11th Century. Unlike the other islands in the lagoon, Murano minted its own coins and had a well known monastery, suppressed by Napoleon in 1810, with every monk expelled during the next c couple years. The pretty waterfront of Murano, leads the way to a fine glass shop. The island's glassmaking fame came about in 1291 when the glassmakers of Venice were forced to move to Murano because of fire risk. Thus its fame in glass, bead and mirror making began. Its quality endures and Murano glass is famous worldwide and still the island's main industry. WE RECOMMEND a full or half-day tour. Here are our two favorite tour contacts, both offering value, expertise and a pleasant outing: viator.com ; citywonders.com/venice The beautiful Napali coast offers an eye catching experience on Oahu. UP NEXT: Hidden Oahu. Come with us to discover the beautiful Na Pali Coast of northern Oahu. Few people take the time to visit this gorgeous part of the Hawaiian Islands, best visited by boat, or helicopter. Hollywood, however, has long known about this breathtaking 15-mile section of Oahu. Come visit with us, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature and family, at whereiscookie.com
- Na Pali Coast wonders: beyond Honolulu's glitz, NCL's 'Pride' reveals breathtaking beauty
The most spectacular views of the Na Pali Coast are from the air or sea. HIDDEN OAHU: NA PALI COASTLINE OFFERS STUNNING TERRAIN, NATURAL BEAUTY ABOARD 'PRIDE OF AMERICA'. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Not far from the coast line, pineapple fields grow much of the world's fruit. OAHU'S NORTH Shore offers one of the world's most spectacular coastlines. But not many visitors to Honolulu take the time to enjoy the beauty. We took a leisurely sail past this wonder, aboard Norwegian Cruise Line's Pride of America. Years ago, Hollywood discovered this pristine stretch of coastline with its eye-popping scenery. The crystal-clear water, jagged mountains and cascading waterfalls transport the viewer to fictional worlds such as those introduced in the "Jurassic Park" movies, "The Hunger Games" and many other famous films. Yet the cinematic beauty of this part of the Hawaiian Islands is very much "non-fiction." More than four million years ago, volcanic plates formed the islands. Where these plates came together, volcanoes were created, sending magma rising upward until it erupted on the seafloor, at what are called “hot spots.” Pride of America offers a leisurely way to see the islands. WE HAD a recent close encounter with the result of this Earth-shaking phenomenon. We've visited Hawaii many times, so booked a week aboard NCL's Pride of America for a different take. NCL is the only line making a popular weekly spin around these fabled isles. We wanted a laid-back cruise, since we are taking five other more demanding cruises this year. We highly recommend this pleasant transit of the islands. The Pride makes the trip each week for a leisurely look at the top towns and attractions on the four major Hawaiian islands. If you want a longer time on Oahu, we also recommend Turtle Bay Resort on the north shore, which provides fine access to the Na Pali Coast for myriad activities. Eager Pride of America passengers disembark for a look at the North Shore. Some of us took helicopter rides, as well as enjoying the boat's tour. LUSH JUNGLES and rain forests lead to verdant cliffs that sometimes hang below the clouds. The jagged peaks and shades of green remind of the mountains and jungles of Peru. The scenic Na Pali coast is hard to beat for spectacular beauty, which is why it has attracted film directors for decades. Some of the jungle scenes of the "Jurassic Park" films were shot in Waimea Valley, also on the North Shore. That lovely canyon is also a great place for a delightful hike. Among the 250 other films shot here are "Blue Hawaii," with Elvis Presley, "Jumanji" and "Godzilla." At Kualoa Ranch, you can tour jungle film sets or a secret island, visit Hawaiian fishponds, go for a horseback ride, or drive an ATV. While visiting the North shore, check out the Kualoa Ranch, which served as a backdrop to the "Jurassic" pictures and many other science-fiction and adventure films. A working cattle ranch, it offers fun tours, some by jeep, of its "Jurassic Park" locations, chosen by directors and cinematographers for the stunning scenery. Today, world famous Kualoa Ranch capitalizes on its good fortune -- with tours that take visitors to the locations, telling the stories of dinosaurs brought out of extinction through cloning. Approaching the Na Pali Coast, passengers aboard NCL's Pride of America enjoy the sun and prepare for a treat. MANY OTHER movie jungle scenes were captured in nearby Manoa Valley. One can take the trail in Manoa Valley to the 150-foot Manoa Falls. This gorgeous waterfall is well worth the hike, even if you aren’t a fan of the movies. There's something cinematic about visiting Oahu's North Shore and Na Pali Coast, but pinch yourself -- because it's all very real. This wonder of the world is thankfully being preserved by the Hawaiian people and shared with us all through tourism -- and the movies! Veteran travel writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers and horticulturist Kate Logan at the entrance to Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. UP NEXT: One of the world's most extraordinary gardens is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, created by a Bay Area man who discovered a neglected 17-acre property 40 years ago and determined to create an oasis. After seven years of work, seven days a week, a beautiful garden emerged. It is one of the treasures of the "Big Island" of Hawaii and we'll take you there. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at travel, the arts, family and nature.
- Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden rises grandly from a man's vision
Bromeliad, heliconia, anthurium, ginger, mango, spider lily and more await viewers at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. A gecko suns himself on a leaf, here caught by the camera in silhouette. LUSH TROPICAL BLOOMS FAIRLY DRIP FROM THE TREES IN BOTANICAL PARADISE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hawaii's familiar upright heliconia is on showy display. The garden also offers a lovely hanging variety. Fronds, stalks and stems make beautiful patterns as you stroll. At right, Kate Logan, horticulturist and supervising manager at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, greets Cookie. A GARDEN in a valley, with a walking path to the ocean..... and along the way a fabulous fiesta of flowers, shrubs, trees, surrounded by abundant bird life, lovely little lizards enjoying the sun, bees buzzing happily, beauty all around. In 1977, Dan Lutkenhouse Sr. was visiting from the Bay Area when he fell in love with the Big Island of Hawaii and its lush Onomea Valley. Vacationing with his wife Pauline, he purchased 17 acres without really knowing what he would do with it. BUT SOON HE HAD a vision to transform the neglected piece of land. Says his son, Dan Lutkenhouse Jr., who carried on the project, "When my father first saw the valley, it was an overgrown, virtually impenetrable jungle." A beautifully laid out gift shop offers unique way to support the Botanical Garden with handmade and local crafts. His dad returned to the mainland, sold his 40-year old San Francisco trucking business and moved to Hawaii. For eight years, he devoted himself to the garden's transformation. With assistant Terry Takiue, and two helpers, the four men labored. Today, devoted horticulturist Kate Logan continues Lutkenhouse's dream, which showcases the natural environment and preserves valuable plants. During the creation, to preserve rare plants and not disturb tree roots, they used cane knives, sickles, picks, shovels and chain saws. Working seven-day weeks and long hours, they eventually cleared paths through the jungle. Colleagues and family remember that he'd leave in the morning with a sandwich, his tools and high hopes. The garden opened to the public in 1984 and now hosts more than 150,000 visitors each year. You'll feel as if you've gone down the rabbit hole as you duck to avoid the garden's thousands of brightly blooming plants. WHILE IT OFFERS visitors a beautiful, restful experience in nature, its mission is also to educate. School children learn the importance of conservation on our beleaguered planet. Guests join the move to preserve the planet's beauty, faced with over-population and imperiled resources. Armed with an excellent trail guide and map of the garden's dozens of plants and trees, we meandered. We followed paths leading gently down to the sea, mingling with people from around the world, just as the founder imagined. Two lovely rivers and waterfalls enhance the 2,500 species of plants, including many endangered species. The ocean coastline hosts mollusk, black crab, endangered sea turtles and the threatened Hawaiian monk seal. The garden boasts spider lily, ti leaf, jackfruit, mango, ivory nut palm and more The sound of water enhances the garden's beauty. WE RETURNED TO OUR ship after the eight-mile drive back to Hilo, having spent a lovely afternoon being peacefully educated by the fruits of one man's dream. The glorious garden he imagined lives! For a few short hours, we were an international link, admiring flowers and plants from the Hawaiian Islands, talking quietly, taking photos, praising the vision of this visionary man with a dream. And so it came to pass: "If you build it, they will come." www.hawaiigarden.com New York at night by Hornblower offers a fine opportunity to view the Statue of Liberty. UP NEXT: Experiencing New York at night is a memorable affair. No other city, except perhaps Las Vegas, has such glamour, glitz and allure. But New York has history, too, and water. Come with us to Ellis Island, Times Square and other famous landmarks, celebrating remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us each week for a fresh take on travel, the arts, family and nature at whereiscookie.com
- New York at Night: Glitz, glamour from Hornblower to Hell's Kitchen
Viewing the New York skyline from the water aboard Hornblower makes for a splendid evening. Lady Liberty aglow viewed from a Hornblower cruise. NIGHTTIME MAGIC UNFOLDS ABOARD HORNBLOWER AND IN WEE HOURS NIGHT SPOTS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "I want to wake up in that city that doesn't sleep And find I'm king of the hill -- top of the heap." --"New York, New York," by Fred Ebb & John Kander NO OTHER city in the world offers the nighttime magic that New York does. Vegas is a close second, but it doesn't have the water. Nor does it boast the history. After all, President George Washington first took office in New York City. From left, Bruce Keller, Cookie Meyers, Misha and David Minesinger about to board Hornblower's New York evening dinner cruise. It's no prettier than from inside a cozy boat, transiting the waterways at night. The city's lights and the water's beauty make a Hornblower evening cruise a spectacular way to see one of the world's great cities. Sister time: Misha and Cookie pause to reminisce before joining others on deck. WE BOARDED Hornblower's City Lights Dinner Cruise with my sister and her husband, celebrating our reunion and a Broadway binge. The evening marked the 55th anniversary of a fondly remembered family trip to New York to witness the 1964 World's Fair. In honor of that my show-biz sister Misha dressed us alike, as our mother had over a half-century ago. Our husbands were gracious good sports, donning look-alike shirts to match our blouses and jeans. For free: strolling New York at night, to admire its classic and new buildings. New York's Brooklyn Bridge, a treat to pass under. Our family has a long, happy history with Hornblower. It's a sentimental favorite at reunions on both coasts. We've toasted birthdays and anniversaries aboard Hornblower vessels in San Francisco, San Diego, Newport and New York with festive brunches, dinners and whale watching treks. This trip we booked a delightful three-course meal surrounded by other happy cruisers from around the globe. An Indian couple was celebrating their 20th anniversary. A family from Boston was celebrating with their recent Columbia Medical School graduate. Guantanamera serves up spicy Cuban fare late, with live music. New York's "The Imbible" is a fast-paced history of the evolution of drinking. BARTENDERS served up artisan cocktails so we could stroll out on deck to admire the city's architectural mix -- from Art Deco to modern. Breathtaking. As our amiable DJ announced our approach to Lady Liberty, champagne was delivered and our international group toasted the statue. Hornblower offers a leisurely way to admire famous New York landmarks -- the Chrysler Building with its ornate spire, the World Trade Center standing proudly rebuilt, Rockefeller Center and the Empire State building. We picked out these landmarks as we dined to soft background jazz. A perfect evening's afterglow. Dawn breaks over the bridges and skyline. OFF THE boat, it was still prime time for New York, although it isn't exactly true that the city never sleeps. However, a good reporter can find intimate bars and neighborhood restaurants that stay open into the wee hours. As in Europe, diners often don't take a table until 9 or 10 p.m., and some joints offer live music and dining until 3, even 4 a.m. One of my favorites was the popular French diner, Florent, which closed, sadly, in 2008. It was "the" destination for those who had too much medicine, serving up legendary goat-cheese omelets and black coffee in a noisy "New York" after hours atmosphere. Near Tiimes Square, the action is lit up and lively all night long, providing great strolling. UPHOLDING the Florent standard for the hangover crowd are Taco Mix, at East 116th St., with fabulous spicy fare; the Penrose on East 82nd Street with smoked gouda on its mac and cheese; Guantanamera on 8th Avenue, with delicious calamari, magnificent Cuban sandwiches and live music; Vida Verde between Hell's Kitchen and the Theater District, with tasty nachos and fish tacos. WE DISCOVERED a delightful play, "The Imbible," a spirited musical comedy tracing the history of alcohol from the cave man to modern times. A little science, a lot musical theater, the show is clever, quick-paced and includes several drinks and another evening option. If you're in the mood for a walk, nothing is prettier than the historic buildings and new skyscrapers of Manhattan's mid-town. Take a walk -- it's free -- then taxi back to your hotel. hornblower.com/new-york/ imbible.nyc/ New York's Bryant Park provides chairs, tables and a lovely green expanse for residents and tourists to enjoy. UP NEXT : A pair to draw to. New Yorkers love their parks and there are dozens of them -- from large, welcoming and expansive public spaces to small neighborhood parks accessible only to residents. Then there are lovely alcoves within museums and businesses. We take you to our two favorites -- Central Park and Bryant Park, much beloved by tourists and native New Yorkers alike. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com
- Travel is enhanced by friends, youngsters, doggies, new perspectives
A gathering -- family, friends, doggies -- in Bozeman, for coffee enroute to Yellowstone National Park. From left, Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Elliana Broscious, Christene (Cookie) Meyers, Ruth Rudner and David Muench. It's fun seeing Yellowstone through new eyes -- and those young eyes are learning how to photograph the park's wonders. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and CM MY FAVORITE trips -- aside from the romantic ones -- are family adventures, with two, three or even four generations. A cruise is perfect, with everyone doing his or her thing during the day then coming together for dinner and story-sharing at day's end. A variety of ages and backgrounds makes for learning -- stretching, growing, looking at the world from another's point of view. "Grannie Cookie" and Rowan Jones are hands on at the wonderful Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Ariz. Cookie and pal Grady Martin on a hill above the Pacific, overlooking La Jolla Shores in north San Diego. Cookie, Keller, Kristen and Zack cruising Lake Tahoe. WE'VE HAD grand times with my late mother at the Folies Bergere and the Opera Bastille in Paris, splendid cruises with sisters, brothers and nieces on the Rhine River, Baltic, Alaskan fjords and Caribbean. I've taken my late husband Billy's grandson Rowan Jones to the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, a grand place where hands-on exhibits let one try instruments from around the globe. Rowan, who calls me "Grannie Cookie," became a crack drummer. We've taken Keller's daughter, Kristen, and her fiancé Zack, cruising on Lake Tahoe, enjoying dinner, drinks and dancing and catching up. Stopping to smell the roses -- or share the ice cream. Here, Cookie with Nick and Nora in Julian, Calif. My Montana neighbor, Grady Martin, was a frequent visitor to southern California, where he lived for many years. I have happy memories of our times in his old stomping grounds, now my part-time home. Cookie, Keller and Cookie's sister Misha on San Diego Bay aboard their favorite Hornblower for a dinner cruise TRAVEL slows me down. It offers the opportunity to reconnect with loved ones and learn about their towns -- or show off mine. When my sister Misha comes to San Diego, we always take a dinner cruise. Sometimes we go for a sail, with "Captain Keller'' at the helm. From left, niece Amarylla, Cookie's mum Ellen, sister Robbie, and Cookie (Christene) tucking into appetizers on a Baltic cruise a few years ago on a favorite ship, Celebrity Century. When I'm at her home in Atlanta, we share cooking in her beautiful kitchen. When my niece Amarylla comes down from San Francisco, we hit the aquarium or Sea World. I'VE TAKEN sisters, niece and my late, much missed mother on the Baltic and all around Europe. Never have I enjoyed a sail-in as much as the morning we entered the harbor in Cobh, Ireland, from where my mother's grandmother came. "I'm home," my mum cried. Later on that same cruise, in Amsterdam, we took mum to the city's legendary smoke shops, where she enjoyed a few tokes and several brownies. We sang and told stories and made friends from all over Friend Corby Skinner and Cookie cruising near Athens. Europe that memorable night. That same year, my friend Corby Skinner and I traveled with a group of six other friends through the Greek Isles. Fun seeing Hadrian's Gate and ancient ruins with curious Corby. Near the end of her long life, my grandmother Olive delighted in meeting her first great-grandchild, Amarylla (now a mother herself). Wee Ama lovingly massaged her great-grandmum's arthritic legs. My parents lived to travel with their first great-grandchildren. STOPPING TO smell the flowers -- and perhaps to look one a new up with a curious niece or great-niece -- is a singular pleasure. Sharing your strawberry ice cream cone with a pair of hot, thirsty Yorkshire terriers is fun, too. Keller and Cookie at the Ahmanson Theatre, Los Angeles. COMING NEXT: Steve Martin's lively and touching Tony-nominated musical, "Bright Star," which he co-wrote with his friend Edie Brickell, is a stunning work, with an amazing bluegrass band on stage, a touching storyline, fine acting, snappy choreography and a delightful script (no surprise there, for Martin is a terrific writer, too.) We take you opening weekend to the Ahmanson Theatre in Los Angeles where the musical is in revival and selling out, after opening a few years back in our stomping grounds, San Diego, at the Old Globe, being revised for last year's Broadway run, and worked over again by Martin and Brickell for L.A. audiences.
- New York's Museum of the Dog is something to bark about
With her faithful service dog, a young visitor poses her animal next to a one of the AKC Dog Museum bronzes. DOG DEVOTEES DELIGHT IN WHIMSICAL MUSEUM DEDICATED TO MAN'S BEST FRIEND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A fine collection of vintage books is among the museum finds. NEW YORK has gone to the dogs -- and happily so -- with the AKC Museum of the Dog. The delightful museum recently returned to New York City, back to where it began over 35 years ago. We spent a fun afternoon there, strolling from our Times Square hotel a few pleasant blocks to 101 Park Avenue, to enjoy one of the world's finest collections of canine-related art. Beautiful bronzes, whimsical watercolors, oils, ceramics, drawings, prints, carvings and inter-active exhibits celebrate man's best friend. A lovingly curated two-story tribute unfolds as one walks from room to room, admiring portraits of royalty with their dogs, hunters with theirs, children and their favorite pets, society matrons dressed to the nines with their canine companions and more. Beautiful bronzes of dogs are poised to watch over visitors at various spots in the two-level museum. THE SHINY new purpose-built galleries are across the street from Grand Central Station in the heart of Midtown Manhattan. Combining fine arts with cutting edge technology and interpretation, the Museum of the Dog provides unique and engaging experiences for visitors of all ages. A whimsical band features these musical pugs. As a life-long dog lover, with more than 15 doggies in my history, I was moved by the permanent collection and its variety. It is both touching and expansive, one of the finest and largest collections of canine-related fine art and artifacts in the world. Dog-related memorabilia and artifacts await the dog devotee: trophies, collars and books about dogs. Show trophies, collars and other dog-related works are also featured in the collection. One of the most famous White House dogs, Millie, belonged to George H.W. Bush and Barbara Bush. IF YOU have dog related art in your home, and are thinking of passing it on, but not sure who in the family or friend circle might enjoy it, consider donating it to the museum. Many wealthy patrons have done this, contributing oils, bronzes, watercolors, terracotta and many other treasures. An interactive exhibit allows visitors to pair their "bark" with a dog. Ours: a Tibetan Mastiff. The museum, sponsored by the American Kennel Club, relies primarily on donations and provides a forum for other AKC endeavors, including a highly ranked canine retreat and changing exhibits. On view now is a lively collection of Constance Bannister's world famous dog and baby photos. "Bannister Babies and Pet Pin-Ups" is on loan from Bannister's daughter, Lynda, who inherited her mother's 100,000 images. Memberships range from basic $60 a year, with unlimited museum admission, to "Blue Ribbon," "Best of Breed," "Champion," "Grand Champion" and "Best in Show." Those higher-priced tax-deductions range from $500 to $10,000. Walk-in admissions are $15 or $5 for kids, $10 for seniors or military. We give paws up and recommend an engaging afternoon or morning visit. museumofthedog.org Welcoming touches with natural rock, wood and even lichen make the Wayne and Pamela Gustafson home an inspiring retreat. UP NEXT: A place to call home, and a beautiful place it is. The elegant home Pamela and Wayne Gustafson is built with love and artistry. The couple integrate their artful touches -- he an architect and she as a needle artist -- to create a restful, soothing and inspiring home. A recent writers' workshop there was a wonderful experience for a dozen accomplished participants. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at the arts, nature, travel, family, pets and more at www.whereiscookie.com
- Soothing surroundings of artists' home sets the tone for a creative day
The home of architect Wayne Gustafson and his artist wife Pamela is an oasis of calm and inspiration. INSPIRATIONAL HOME OF ARCHITECT AND ARTIST LIGHTS A FIRE OF CREATIVITY UNDER WRITERS The Gustafsons hosted a recent Writer's Voice workshop for 12 writers who used the grounds -- interior and exterior -- to sharpen their prose. At far left is teacher Christene Meyers, next to Gustafson. Pamela is at far right of the photo, surrounded by workshop participants. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "A structure must be functional, but it must be inviting and inspiring, too." -- architect Wayne Gustafson Lichen is integrated into the design. DRIVING UP a discreet, tree-lined cul de sac, a picturesque scene comes into view. The house and landscape seem as one. Trees and flowers complement the lines of the home. Unique artful touches abound. Wayne Gustafson shares his architectural acumen and the artful background of couple's home. The home of Pamela and Wayne Gustafson is truly their castle, and a restful and rejuvenating playground for children of all ages. Real stone is a crucial part of the Gustafsons' natural looking decor. RECENTLY, the artistic couple hosted a Writer's Voice gathering. A dozen workshop participants spent the day writing, revising, sharing and creating in a half-dozen alcoves, patio spaces and welcoming niches. The home and grounds were designed by architect Gustafson in the tradition of another great American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, whose environmentally integrated precepts changed the way people build and inhabit space both business and personal. Attention to detail marks every aspect of life in this home. Here, a beautiful alcove includes a bedroom fireplace and plants. The home and its soothing surroundings -- in the style of "form follows function" -- are a perfect muse for writers, including Pamela, whose elegant needle art is displayed throughout. GUSTAFSON IS known by peers for his attention to detail and skillful use of organic materials. The master artisan's architectural eye blends light, wood and natural products as he has done for decades. For he was light years ahead of his time -- "building green" from his early professional An expansive lawn the size of a football field was a chipping green in Gustafson's golfing days, later a playground for grandchildren. Now he and Pamela invoke the muse and share creative inspiration with friends. Pamela Gustafson and Christene (Cookie) review the day's efforts in the cheery living area. THUS AN invitation was extended to Corby Skinner's Writer's Voice national project to spend a day in workshop. (Full disclosure: I taught the session, at the request of previous writing seminar participants.) Wayne's hand chosen stone and Pamela's needle art. We gathered in the living room, on the north side of a sandstone fireplace that rises from the lower level, lit by subtle, natural light. Gustafson gave a tour, noting a skylight above the main fireplace. It channels the sun through slats of wood salvaged from a building in a coal-mining camp in southern Park County. Lichen on the wood and horizontal stones lends an earthy detail. Gustafson believes a structure must be functional, but invite and inspire, too. "It must be kept in context, especially when the effort is historical preservation or renovation." Bruce Keller, left, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in a quiet corner of the Gustafsons' welcoming home and grounds. Recycled barn wood on the fire place, hand selected rocks and boards, and subtle filtered light enhance the beauty of the wood. Pamela Gustafson's elegant needle art is inspiration as she writes. Impeccable detail in the moldings and mitered glass corners create a stunning panorama, connecting the indoors and outdoors in the time honored style of Wright whose homes accented nature's beauty with meticulous interior design. PAMELA'S NEEDLE art provides the crowning touch. Her delicate, detailed designs -- all original -- provide sculptural accents, tapestries and wall hangings. Those who have lived in Billings a while know Gustafson's other works, including the Security Federal Savings Building at 24th Street West and Grand Avenue, built in 1974, and Faith Chapel at Broadwater Avenue and 24th Street West, built in 1993. He used his own home for inspiration on his other design projects, taking his notebook to one of the alcoves, meditating beneath the fir trees. The Sydney Harbor Bridge at the famous Sydney Opera House at night are probably among the world's most recognizable landmarks and harbors. UP NEXT: Harbors. Or is it harbors? Whichever way you spell it -- and both are correct -- you're near restful water giving shelter to ships, passengers and the citizenry. No matter which side of "the pond" you inhabit, or where in the world you love to travel, you're probably attracted to water, ports, rivers, harbors. We'll explore some of the planet's most beautiful "water linked" cities. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays at whereiscookie.com
- Romancing into our dotage -- light the fire of romance after tragedy
Happy in Barcelona, taking a chance on love. NOT OLD, BUT BOLD, IN LOVE! DON'T LET THE CALENDAR STOP YOU FROM JOY Excited to be touring New York City together. Love is lovelier the second time around Just as wonderful with both feet on the ground It's that second time you hear your love song sung Makes you think perhaps that love, like youth, is wasted on the young --Sammy Cahn and Jimmy Van Heusen STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN MY SECOND husband passed, I was still in my fifties. Sad, confused and in mourning, I circled the wagons, looking at convent brochures. Perhaps I would sequester myself in a yurt in some remote village. My belongings would be a spoon, a bowl, a single painting, a dozen books and a hair shirt. I would be the world's first penitent comedienne because I would also take my sense of humor. My sister Robbie giggled, "You are NOT -- definitely NOT -- convent material. "You still have 20 good years of travel, maybe more." Enjoying Amsterdam with its historic windmills. She coaxed me back into the world of dating and after a half-dozen disasters, I met by chance Bruce William Keller. While I was twice widowed, he was three years out of divorce, recovering from a near fatal car crash and an unhappy marriage. In Sweden on a Baltic trip last week, touring on an electric bus. I SHARE OUR story to encourage others to take that chance. Ladies, put yourselves out there. There are so many wonderful LIVING, LOVING, LIFE GOES ON ways to meet like-minded people -- book clubs, dance classes, theaters and concert halls (perhaps volunteer as an usher). Gents: the same advice goes for you. You may wonder "What if she turns me down?" But what the hell; ask. What's the worst that can happen? Looking forward to the future and relishing the present. Cookie and Keller just returned from a month on the Baltic. What if they'd never met? When we cruise, which we love doing, we attend the on-board trivia contests and art classes during the at-sea days. We also book a table for four or six rather than dining at a table for two. We've met many lovely friends around the world this way. Of course, as with all things, one must put oneself out there. MY BEST advice, having chosen not to enter the convent, is to be yourself, continuing to nurture your passions and look for someone who shares them. If you desire companionship -- someone to travel with, see a play or movie with, enjoy a dinner, hike or sports event, don't delay. Carpe diem. Tempus fugit. As Bobby McFerrin suggests, "Don't worry. Be happy." Autumn blankets the West Fork of the Stillwater River, a serene place in south-central Montana. UP NEXT: Autumn around the world. Known as fall in the U.S. and Canada because of the shedding of leaves from deciduous trees, it's a magical time, the favorite of poets and artists and the two of us. We take you to some of our favorite fall corners of the world where the leaves drop and colors change from green to light yellow, deep gold, orange, crimson and deep red – inspired by a natural process. We share a few of our favorite fall quotes too, as we remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us each Friday for a fresh take on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com .
- Appealing Amsterdam: Something for everyone in a lively Dutch city
The canals of Amsterdam are legendary, and much loved and used by tourists and residents alike. SOPHISTICATED, EXCITING AMSTERDAM: CANALS, HISTORY, MUSEUMS, WINDMILLS, BIKES, FINE FOOD The colorful De Kat Paint Mill of 1782, is one of the joys of a trip to Zaanse Schans in The Netherlands, near Amsterdam and the oldest and best preserved windmill area of the world. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AMSTERDAM is a city of many moods. It is vibrant and varied, rowdy and rustic, cosmopolitan and contemplative, accepting and non-judgmental. It is a delightful city to visit and be part of, if only for a few sunny, fun-filled days. Our recent of many visits was memorable because autumn was just coming to the Netherlands. We relished the crisp air, evening breezes and changing colors. A few sights are on everyone's play list: the famous "museum pair" -- the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum and the house where the young Jewish diarist Anne Frank hid during WWII. The I-amsterdam offices offer several varieties of the excellent card, for card for one, two, three or four-day access and savings. A real deal. TO NAVIGATE this beautiful city efficiently and economically, we highly recommend the " iamsterdam city card " which saved us more than 50 euros at a variety of attractions and on the city's fine public transport system. We didn't begin to touch the range of 70-plus museums, but in earlier visits toured Rembrandt's house, the world class Maritime Museum and the Frank family's touching upstairs apartment where two families hid until they were outed just before the ending of World War II. Italian born Sergio gave us a lively and brisk three-hour walking tour of Amsterdam, from the canals and shopping areas, smoke houses and the famous Red Light District. The card also helps take advantage of Amsterdam's excellent bus and tram system and discounts at many shops, restaurants and more. iamsterdam offers convenient offices and pick-up centers for the one, two, three or four day passes. We picked ours up at Schiphol Airport before heading to our hotel, the Amsterdam Hilton. AMSTERDAM IS a great walking city, but beware of the bikes which come zipping by at often alarming speeds. Bikes rule, too, so look before you begin crossing a street. Walking in the famed Red Light District of Amsterdam is safe. Keller and Cookie relax at the Amsterdam Hilton. We always take a walking tour in a city, no matter how many times we've been. This time, we tried and enthusiastically recommend "Freedam Tours," which navigate the city on foot with lively, educated guides. Ours was Sergio, Italian born and engaging. He proudly showed us old Amsterdam, its famous coffee shops, historic buildings and his old neighborhood, the Red Light District. "Please treat them with respect." We saw several of the women in their windows, and Sergio smiled as we admired shops with beautiful cheeses, souvenirs and pastries. Cannabis is legal in Amsterdam, but it must be Amsterdam's legendary coffee shops serve a cannabis inspired menu. bought from certified distributors. We took my late mother to a coffee shop 10 years ago where we all chill out and passed a few pleasant hours. Most look like sophisticated bistros. Cannabis can be purchased, along with special brownies, cookies and hashish. A pretty little Dutch girl smiles for the photographer from one of the country's many clean, efficient buses and trams. THE NETHERLANDS is at the center of northwestern European commerce, home to people from 200 countries with an average life expectancy of 80. Only 17 million live in all of Holland, around three million people in the greater Amsterdam area and eight million in its four major cities. Amsterdam is the official capital of the Netherlands according to the country's constitution. But most Dutch consider The Hague the capital, since both the States General and Executive Branch have been situated there since 1588. A visit to the Anne Frank House is a moving experience, even multiple times. Amsterdam has a long, proud and colorful history dating back to 1275 when it was founded as a fishing village on the Amstel River. The name "Amstelledamme" occurs for the first time in a toll concession of Floris V, Count of Holland, dated Oct. 27, 1275. Besides cheese, clogs, canals and bikes, Amsterdam is known for its flat landscape, spring tulips and the world's best preserved windmills. We took a day trip to Zaanse Schans, a vibrant working community dating to 18th Century Amsterdam. A canal trip is the best way to admire Amsterdam's graceful historic buildings, museums, bars and coffee shops. The Van Gogh Museum is a high-tech institution with beautiful displays and many of the artist's paintings. Art is everywhere in the parks of Amsterdam. We were also thrilled with the location of our hotel, the lovely Hilton Amsterdam, in a beautiful neighborhood between the museum district and the Station Zuid business district. (More next week on the hotel's famous John and Yoko Suite, which we enjoyed. The couple staged its famous "Bed-in for Peace" at the hotel in 1969. ) www.iamsterdam.com ; wwww.zaanschemolen.nl ; www.freedamtours.com ; www.vangoghmuseum.com UP NEXT: Fifty years ago, John and Yoko Ono staged a memorable "Love In" also referred to as a "Peace In" and "Bed In" in Amsterdam's Hilton Hotel. Today, their suite is a popular honeymoon get-away enjoyed by Beatles fans from all over the world. We visit, too, and take you there. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a fresh take on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fun, fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, romance, food, family and more. Check out: whereiscookie.com , which has an international following.
- John and Yoko's peaceful Dutch 'Love In' remembered 50 years later
Remembering the days of yore, Christene "Cookie" Meyers checks out the John and Yoko suite at Amsterdam Hilton. BEATLES FANS VISIT FAMOUS HOTEL SUITE REMEMBERED FOR 1969 "BED IN" The hotel is a smart, stylish property and the suite pays homage to the famous couple's peaceful protest there 50 years ago. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "You may say I'm a dreamer, But I'm not the only one. I hope someday you'll join us, And the world will live as one." -- from 'Imagine', on its 48th anniversary Stylish architecture and plush amenities are offered for those who wish to pay $2,000-plus a night. WE ALL REMEMBER the photos. John Lennon and Yoko Ono in bed, surrounded by flowers, signs and musical instruments. It was 1969 and the Vietnam War was raging. The famous couple staged two week-long Bed-Ins for Peace, one at the Hilton Hotel in Amsterdam and one at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in Montreal. We visited the first hotel on a recent trip to the Netherlands, spending a week in this quiet, peaceful corner of Amsterdam. "Peaceful" is the key word here for the two hotel visits were intended to be nonviolent protests against wars and experimental tests of new ways to promote peace. Our host for a tour of the famous suite was the hotel's delightful public relations specialist, Anastasija, who is too young to remember the time in which the non-violent events occurred. Photographer Eric Koch faked a press card to gain entrance to the famous "Bed In" and the couple preferred his photos to others taken that week. She smiled as she told the stories, though, including comments from journalists covering the event. "They remarked that the two were welcoming to visitors and the press, but that the room began to smell a bit toward the end of the week. As part of the protest, they did not bathe." The Amsterdam property has enlarged the original John and Yoko room into a small suite which is in high demand at $2,090 a night (1899 Euros). The guestbook boasts signatures of happy couples from Japan to Australia, Germany, Spain and the United Kingdom. The couple had recently married in Gibraltar and many honeymooners stay there now. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers in the John and Yoko suite, Amsterdam Hilton, overlooking a lovely canal. THE BATHROOM of 50 years ago was not as plush as today's expanded room with its large oval bathtub, separate walk-in shower, plush bathrobes and slippers, plus other VIP amenities. The idea for the 1969 event derived from the era's popular "sit ins" when protesters seated themselves in front of or inside an establishment until they were evicted, arrested, or had their demands met. THERE ARE IRONIES and anecdotes to the famous visit. The Hilton was not the first choice of the couple, but accepted their reservation knowing that the visit might attract international attention. "We have certainly benefited from the event," Anastasija commented. And, she agreed, the other Dutch hotel which declined to host the couple has probably had regrets. A sketch made by the pair is now used in advertising the suite which is tastefully decorated with John and Yoko memorabilia. Among the nostalgic objects are a copy of one of his guitars, many photographs, sketches and notebooks. A stroll from the hotel takes the tourist past lovely canals and many bikers. We loved the location of the hotel, a 10-minute walk from Holland's fabled Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Vondelpark. If the couple had been hungry they could have feasted at Roberto's, or sipped a cocktail at the Half Moon Lounge, an inviting garden terrace with splendid canal views in a luxurious residential area. INSTEAD , they ate little and when they did, it was a few spoonsful of cold Campbell's soup. What did the peace-in teach us? Most believe it had little effect on the war, but its artistic contribution lives on. Says one scholar of the period, "The idea that sitting in bed for a week might have caused Richard Nixon to revise his foreign policy looks a tad hopeful, to say the least." London's Eating Europe tour offered a delightful mix of tastings from spicy curry to sticky pudding and fish and chips served in newspaper. NEXT UP: Next time in Europe, try a delightful "taste and tour" opportunity. We just did in London and happily recommend Eating Europe Food Tours now in many European cities. The innovative concept combines eating and touring -- fine food at several stops with lively, expert guides sharing best-kept food and drink secrets with a learned nod to history. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique view of travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more.
- Rijsttafel anyone? Dutch specialty nods to Indonesian connection
As artfully designed Blue Pepper opens for the evening, Cookie pauses with staff to survey the Amsterdam restaurant. Awaiting the first course at Blue Pepper, Cookie smiles. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU DESIRE a truly memorable dinner while visiting Amsterdam -- one that will linger long in the memory, with smells, tastes and colors you recall for years -- choose a rijsttafel feast at Blue Pepper Restaurant. I've been a fan of this complex and satisfying dish since the late 1960s when as young adventure seekers, my teen-aged girlfriends and I ordered rijsttafel at a small Indonesian restaurant in Amsterdam. Delicately cooked scallop with a tasty orange sauce: delicious. Our eyes widened as dish after dish arrived at our table, magnificent meats, fish, vegetables, chicken, pickles, skewers of delicacies all seasoned with an amalgam of spices we struggled to identify. Since then, I've spent more than a half-century sampling rijsttafel wherever and whenever I can, even enticing a dear friend of Dutch and Indonesian heritage to invite us to rijsttafel at her home. She did! Thank you, Ragna, and your excellent mama. You two fine cooks worked for several days on the meal and we thoroughly enjoyed it. THE MEAL is often served with beer, but Blue Pepper offers the courses with interesting wine pairings, which I sampled. (My husband savored a fruity but not too sweet non-alcoholic specialty drink). Several non-alcoholic beers would also pair nicely with the feast, which includes rice if you like. A trio of satay -- each different, and each in its own sauce -- is a must at Blue Pepper, where subtlety, variety, flavor reign. Rijsttafel is spelled several ways. (This one most common.) A delightful specialty drink can be served with or without alcohol. The libation's quality matches that of the fine food. THE TASTY DISHES that comprise a rijsttafel meal have been around hundreds of years in Indonesia. The Dutch brought the dish to Europe in the 1600s, when they were a significant presence in the region. In fact, the Dutch ruled in Indonesia from 1602 to 1945, almost 350 years, most of the time referring to it as the East Indies. Wonderfully attentive service from waiter Terenzio Gnoni is part of Blue Pepper's charm. The name, “rijsttafel” is Dutch in origin and means literally “rice table.” Dutch plantation owners liked the array of dishes and desired to sample a mix of them at one sitting. In restaurants or at a large catered party, guests often find rijsttafel on a buffet or the center of the table and are not expected to sample every offering. Blue Pepper kicks it up a notch, serving the meal in small appealing courses. We sampled a six-part extravaganza ranging from tender succulent scallops with macadamia nuts and orange, to scrumptious deep-fried eggplant, a marvelous jack fruit and peanut satay with soy and lime and a medley of pickles, prawns, steamed vegetables and a dessert both scrumptious and pretty. Dessert for the birthday boy. Keller's dessert medley was a beautifully arranged boat of delicacies -- chocolate, berries, petit fours. THERE ARE dozens of offerings and Blue Pepper's knowledgeable and friendly waiters will help you narrow the field based on your preferences. Our delightful waiter, Terenzio, patiently and with aplomb offered personal recommendations: a pulled-goose fried spring roll with a fragrant cloves and cinnamon sauce; a refreshing fruit dish of pineapple, mango and cucumber with a tasty sauce; a spicy guinea-fowl curry unlike anything we'd sampled in other rifsttafel haunts. IF YOU want to learn a few words before you select your meal, bone up on these: ayam means chicken; ikan means fish; daging means meat; sayur means veggies with broth and maybe a bit of meat; sate is barbecued meat or fish on skewers; sambal goreng is spicy vegetables; sambal goreng kering is spicy and stands alone; sambal is a chili condiment (go easy!) and rudjak is fresh fruit with spicy sweet sauce. We recommend the fried side dishes, goreng, and don't be shy to try a zingy pickled veggie relish, acar. Krupuk (with a long u) is a deep fried chip similar to India's papadum. Blue Pepper's delightful menu is served both in a beautifully designed Amsterdam restaurant and in a canal cruise, served tableside. Since Amsterdam is built on canals, the Blue Pepper's candlelight dinner cruise is another option, a wonderfully decadent way to gild the lily. Combine fine dining with some of the world's most varied waterways with rijstaffel, champagnes and wines served at your table. WHY NOT experience both the canal cruise and the restaurant. If you come to Blue Pepper and dine early or late, (avoiding the busy 6:30-9 p.m. when it is packed,) you'll enjoy a welcome prosecco or signature cocktail on the house. We've tried a half-dozen other restaurants serving unique Indonesian food in Amsterdam, but none compare to the flair, quality and detail of Blue Pepper. restaurantbluepepper.com Daniel Ramos, Jose Bales, Salomon Maya in "Bad Hombres, Good Wives" encounter one another at San Diego Repertory Theatre. UP NEXT : We'll be back to Europe for more adventure soon -- in the English countryside, aboard British trains and into northern Europe and the Baltic. But first, a segue: come with us to southern California where our San Diego theater season is heating up for an autumn bonanza of comedy, drama, spoofs and more. We'll preview a few of our favorites in what looks to be a stellar line-up of quality work. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fun, fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, romance, food, family and more.














