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Autumn is a perfect time to visit Mount Rushmore National Memorial in South Dakota's Black Hills.  Fine fall weather is predicted for the next few days making for prime viewing of the spectacular art.  MEMORIAL ATTRACTS INTERNATIONAL CROWD, EVOKES EMOTION AND AWE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS An "Avenue of Flags" welcomes visitors -- an impressive and colorful array of flags of the 50 U.S. states, territories, commonwealths and the District of Columbia. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A FEELING  of intense pride overcame me as I gazed in wonder at Mount Rushmore. Surrounded by an international crowd of admirers -- many with children, hundreds with cameras -- I heard French, Italian, Hindi, Hebrew, German, Mandarin, Japanese and Polish as people absorbed the accomplishment.  Fellow Americans wiped tears and I found myself emotional, too. Many children are part of the crowds each day as three million people from all over the world visit annually.   ONE ENTERS   Mount Rushmore National Memorial through an impressive hall of flags.  The display forms an artful promenade -- flags gently waving in autumn winds. The "avenue" was established during the 1976 U.S. Bicentennial as part of the celebration. It was fun to find our two states' flags -- California and Montana. We watched as fellow Americans took photos by their state's emblem. A woman from Mexico proudly recalled her naturalization ceremony here in 2007. "My whole family came," she said emotionally. There's a fine book store, ranger talks, an excellent film about the monument's making, a beautiful viewing terrace, nature trails, fascinating artful museum, a classy gift shop, and "Carver's Cafe" where the ice cream junkie in our family tasted Thomas Jefferson's own recipe. Thumbs up! "Rich and delicious," he said. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on site. THE STAR of the show is Gutzon Borglum's massive carving on the granite mountain. Four remarkable U.S. presidents gaze back at us, from left: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln.  Borglum chose them for their contributions to the country, their ethics and morals, global thinking, environmental interests and preservation of the principles of the constitution.  Borglum inspected the monument many times between the work which lasted from 1927 to 1941. --photo courtesy Mount Rushmore Memorial Carving began in 1927 as the son of Danish immigrants undertook his most ambitious project. One imagines him supervising as tons of dynamite blasted through the spirelike granite formations of the Black Hills. Borglum was "hands on," dangling from ropes to inspect the work as his vision took shape.  He was concerned with how morning and midday light would affect his figures, and visited at various times of day to document his perceptions.  Thomas Jefferson's recipe for ice cream is one of many unique displays at Rushmore.   BOTH federal funds and private donations made it possible to blast more than 450,000 tons of rock from the mountain with the skills of 400 laborers.  No one was killed, remarkably, and the workers are honored on a giant plaque. The original cost of under $1 million seems modest compared to the $56 million spent during an enormous redevelopment project in the 1990s.    WE'VE VISITED monuments and memorials worldwide -- hundreds of them commemorating fallen war heroes, statesmen, suffragists, sea battles and sailors lost, politicians, economists, scientists, explorers, city founders, musicians and artists, even beloved dogs. None had the effect that seeing this colossal, internationally known stone sculpture had on me. Crazy Horse reaches out to his peoples' lands in the work-in- progress sculpture. The hole shows where the leader's arm will extend. One can see his finger pointing. His horse will eventually be carved beneath him. Carving began in 1948. HOWEVER, THE project has not been accomplished without controversy. Some thought the proposal would compromise the natural wonder of architecture formed millions of years ago. Many Native Americans felt that placing the sculpture on their   sacred Black Hills land would represent continuing betrayal of trust, and another in a string of broken treaties. For centuries, Plains Indians including Arapaho, Cheyenne and Lakota Sioux have used the area for prayer, medicine, and for gathering food and building materials. In the latter half of the 19th century, U.S. expansion into the Black Hills led to the infamous Sioux Wars. In the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie, the U.S. government granted exclusive use of all of the Black Hills to the Sioux. So one understands the objection to the sculpture. A sculpture of Gutzon Borglum by his son, Lincoln Borglum in on display at the Memorial. TO PAY RESPECT to these great cultures and in the spirit of apology for many broken treaties, another memorial is in progress. We visited it, too, and recommend it as a companion visit to Rushmore.  The nearby Crazy Horse Memorial is just a half hour or 17 miles down the road from Rushmore. It is an impressive complex on Thunderhead Mountain, with a museum and elaborate displays of Indian beadwork, paintings and sculpture. Its focal point is the  sculptural work in progress of the great Lakota leader and his horse.  Another ambitious project, it was begun more than 75 years ago, in 1948, and continues today. The project was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a  respected Lakota elder. The massive carving of Crazy Horse was inspired by his heroics at the Battle of the Little Big Horn, in which General George Custer was defeated. Survivors contributed memories of the battle to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski who undertook the project and worked on it for many years.   This photo shows the back of the granite with the figure of George Washington peeking out.  AFTER Ziolkowski died in 1982, his widow Ruth and family continued the project, operated by the nonprofit Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, which also runs the museum and cultural center. The monument reflects desire to create a symbol of Native American heroism and resilience. Fees range from $7 to about $15. Rushmore admission is free. $10 for parking. mtrushmorenationalmemorial.com crazyhorsememorial.org Celebrity Cruises offers 15 ships and interesting options to  entertain guests, here a glass blowing demonstration & class. UP NEXT:  We have fun in store, with Montana's Shakespeare in the Schools, San Juan and the rain forest of Puerto Rico, a Halloween preview and a special cruise with glass blowing classes. Some of our favorite cruises offer an opportunity to learn a new art and we tried our luck at glass blowing on a recent Celebrity Eclipse cruise to Antarctica.  It's a cool way to educate oneself at sea, and you keep what you make, including a novel urn for ashes of a beloved pet. More on the Bard in rural schools  and a recent Celebrity cruise to the far reaches of the Earth.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

The Palms at Indian Head offers a tranquil, beautiful escape from city life, with its open airy feel. DESERT HIDEAWAY DESERVES YOUR VISIT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The property boasts an Olympic size pool, which is a popular place to be as temperatures heat up in the desert.  You'll find unsurpassed desert views, privacy and solitude. YOU'LL STEP BACK  in time at the Palms at Indian Head -- to a world where nature artfully complements man-made beauty. It's a unique hotel which feels both laid back and sophisticated, thanks to careful development by a visionary couple. David Leibert and Cynthia Wood saved  the complex from neglect when they bought and lovingly  restored the main building where stars of cinema's golden age relaxed. Imagine Clark Gable, Lon Chaney, Will Rogers, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe lounging by the pool. Pretend it's 1950. The stars are enjoying the bar, golf, a quiet place to read, relax, swim and visit. EVERYONE  was relaxed then, and  the creative owners have preserved that "laid back" feeling at the 20-acre, 12-room resort, built in 1947. Thanks to the enterprising owners and their love of nature, you can soak up the ambiance, wander on a nearby nature trail, enjoy a leisurely meal or swim in the pools. Nearly eight decades after the property was conceived, Leibert and Wood are patiently restoring it to its glory days -- with their own spin and tasteful   The hotel's gallery showcases a tasteful mix  of fine art, often reflecting desert imagery. Here's a Michael Weelden's piece. architectural changes. (The original bungalows were lost to fire but are mostly replaced by a charming boutique hotel over the lobby and lounge, and a few guest cottages on ground level.) The two were inspired by the beautiful trees on the property -- California's famous fan palms, Mexican palms and date producing palms near the pool. Thus the name, which also reflects the inn's location. It is located at the base of Indian Head Mountain,  a stately summit in the gorgeous San Ysidro Mountains. The town is Borrego Springs and the area is the Anza Borrego Desert, named after Juan Bautista de Anza, a Spanish explorer who explored the region in 1774. Borrego refers to the bighorn sheep that inhabit the area, and is the Spanish word for lamb. Framed by a soon-to-bloom ocotillo on a Palms bike ride.     THE OWNERS'   love of nature and impeccable artistic vision blend in this unique place. You'll hear Frank Sinatra tunes as you check in.  If you stroll the grounds, you'll see remains of the original hotel bungalows, lost to fire. Owners Dave Leibert and Cindy Wood at Machu Pichu. The two travel widely  and run two Borrego Springs venues. Replacing them are the boutique hotel and a popular restaurant, Coyote Steakhouse. Another local favorite restaurant is the more casual Red Ocotillo, also owned by Leibert and Wood. THE TWO  have worked hard to make their restaurants and the inn welcoming. All around the Coyote Steakhouse, you'll hear chirping birds.  We also saw rabbits, a roadrunner and dozens of charming little lizards on the walkways. G ifted pianist Joey Ross plays weekends at the Palms, here with musician Cookie enjoying. Steve Hunter also plays from time to time. Enhancing the desert's pleasures is a lovely gallery offers artfully showcasing landscapes, appealing pottery and imaginative paintings. On weekends, gifted pianist Joe Ross offers a range of beautifully played classics, '50s and '60s pop, light classics and occasional Scott Joplin ragtime. A genius at variety and smooth segue, he plays inventive medleys with hypnotic force in a repertoire ranging from French impressionists to jazz and the Sinatra repertoire which is synonymous with the inn.     THE MENU  at the Steakhouse is superbly chosen, with artful, tasty salads and a range of entrees including steaks, chops, seafood and chicken  -- all beautifully  prepared.  We've tried the steaks, salmon and chicken -- all delicious. Of the many appealing appetizers, the tasty ahi tartare and crab cakes are treats.  Lobster, osso bucco, special holiday offerings  and other delights are offered and if you dine before 6 p.m., enjoy a price break on a prix fixe meal. We end with the sugar-free cheesecake, and there's often homemade berry cobbler. An after dinner tradition is a stroll: the property rests on land once occupied by the Cahuilla Indians and the mountain profile of a reclining Indian frames the property and inspires a closer look during after the satisfying meal.  It's also beautiful at dawn and dusk.  We parked our bikes outside the Palms' gallery, which offers a nicely displayed and tasteful mix of paintings and sculpture. THE BUILDING  that now houses most of the rooms was constructed in 1958 in the famous California "Mid-Century Modern" style -- with Mondrian influences. The architect is unknown but David and Cindy narrowed the field to Joseph Eickler, Cliff May and Albert Frey, all noted for their flair in the style of the day. IN THE DAY  it was called Hoberg's Desert Resort, and guests reveled in the star-studded night sky. We did the same recently, after hiking and biking the  retreat and exploring nearby Palm Canyon. The stars -- like the inn itself -- have a timeless appeal. Information: To book a room at the Palms or reserve a table for dinner at Coyote Steakhouse: stay@thepalmsatindianhead.com 760-440-6824 To book redocotillo.com 1 760-767-7400 Dine in or take out. For expert tips on organizing your time & what to see: andrea@GotoBorregoSprings.com BEST BETS:   Erica Marie trades her apron for sexy cocktail dresses, food banter, songs.  A merry mix of music and food chat takes the audience on a spin around the globe in "I Can Cook, Too." This engaging work is gracing the stage at New Village Arts in Carlsbad through May 26. It's served hot, sassy and sizzling by singer-actor Erica Marie Weisz backed by a terrific musical trio and fun lighting and sound effects. Inspiration for the piece came to Erica Marie during the exile days of COVID.  She found therapy in isolation by combining her two loves: musical theater and cooking. She sings, sashays and flirts, stirring up a couple dozen tunes, all with dining, food and romance references. The songs are served in "courses" and the range is impressive -- from sultry Peggy Lee songs to Edith Piaf's signature piece, a ballad from "Sunset Boulevard," Jerome Kern's "Smoke Gets in Your Eyes" and more.  New Village stalwart Olivia Pence joins Erica Marie for a stirring rendition of "Happy Days Are Here Again/Get Happy" made famous by Judy Garland and her daughter, Liza Minnelli, and beautifully delivered here. Weisz's wit, energy and her clever script pair cooking and song with help from a brilliant "sous chef," pianist and musical director Patrick Marion. It's a tasty romp with bass player Martin Martiarena and percussionist Jon Berghhouse. What fun to see gifted faces in San Diego musical theater together. Marion's flawless accompaniment includes an accordion cameo in "La Via en Rose." This marvelous production comes dressed with a half-dozen costume changes and an hilarious audience participation number that brings the house down. The show sent this Broadway Baby tap dancing down memory lane. For tickets:  (760) 433-3245  or newvillagearts.org Bruce Keller prepares to help hoist the sails on California's official tall ship, the Californian. It is one of many nautical treasures one can board and enjoy at Maritime Museum of San Diego.   ON TAP : Ahoy, maties. Kick off the summer with an adventure on the sea.  It's almost Memorial Day weekend and with that comes the beginning of summer tourism. Here in San Diego, we're ready to welcome ocean loving tourists. The city's world class Maritime Museum of San Diego offers a wonderful immersion in nautical lore and life on the high seas.  An impressive collection of vessels includes the Californian, our state's official tall ship, so we step back in time with a four-hour sail on it, and help hoist the sails.  It is a showpiece of the much loved museum with knowledgeable docents to help you step back in time, visiting a pirate ship and a submarine.  The Museum is a treasure trove of vintage vessels -- the steamship Berkeley, the famous Star of India, which rounded the Horn in the early 1800s, and the San Salvador where famous movies were filmed. Then picture yourself on a yacht with a beautiful view, live music, a glass of your favorite beverage and delicious food.  It could be a brunch or dinner cruise aboard City Cruises, coming to readers soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, the arts, family and more.

Bruce Keller has sailed all his life, as a native San Diegan with a love of the sea.  He taught sailing to Christene "Cookie" Meyers. She learned sailing and he learned to ballroom dance. Here they are at San Diego Maritime Museum, a world renowned museum with vessels, exhibits and much more. AHOY MATIES, SET SAIL FOR A DAY OF ADVENTURE, DISCOVERY, MAYBE A PIRATE SHIPS, HISTORY, EXHIBITS, Keller is in his element on the Star of India, one of several vessels at the museum which visitors can board and admire. MOVIE LORE, SAILING, MEMORABILIA & MORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Ships and nautical history are front and center, here a view of several of the boats. From various vantage points at the museum and out on the sea, one can enjoy splendid views of San Diego and the skyline. IF  YOU WANT  a taste of the sea, with the vessels which explored the world, you won't find a better place to indulge your secret sailor than the San Diego Maritime Museum. The excitement, lore and lure of the sea are represented in myriad vessels and carefully designed displays. You're in for treats galore at San Diego Maritime Museum. The collection of boats is a focal point on San Diego's waterfront, a treasure trove of all things nautical. A knowledgeable, sea loving staff and an equally enthusiastic volunteer force have spent thousands of hours and months of care developing a rare collection of vessels. So expansive and well curated is its collection of vessels and exhibition space that the facility enjoys a worldwide reputation. Named one of three top worldwide maritime museums, this one needs to be on your bucket list! Moored along the waterfront on the Embarcadero, it is one of the city's chief delights.  The beloved Berkeley was moved from northern California to its home in San Diego. Notice the beautifully preserved wooden tables and elegant stained glass windows. The museum sports more than a dozen boats and ships, including a submarine you can explore, and expertly curated and researched maps and nautical paraphernalia.  Visitors get a double treat: a traditional indoor museum and an opportunity to board and inspect the vessels.  Sometimes there is action and entertainment as "pirates" stroll and strut.  And there are always workers doing endless repair and maintenance, all eager to share their knowledge with ship loving visitors. A favorite part of the exhibit is the stately Star of India, built in 1863.  This graceful ship is the oldest active merchant sailing ship in the world. From time to time, the museum takes her out.  We enjoyed a sail on her many years ago, and have our fingers crossed for an encore as plans are firmed  A delightful pilot boat takes museum guests on the bay and harbor, pointing out spots of interest. We've had wonderful guides, including Kiki. for an outing in a year or two.  We took our British friends aboard the Star, with its elegant wooden decks and English-related stories of her sailing days of yore. Fun to see her rooms and picture life in her difficult sailing times. Star of India began life during the Civil War, in November of 1863.  Her first voyages took her to India, where she supplied badly needed jute to England. This replaced cotton, which because of the war was unavailable from the U.S. SAN DIEGO'S  fine staff and devoted volunteers are constantly restoring and maintaining the Star and other historic vessels to insure that future generations may come aboard to learn and enjoy. Restoration excellence makes the museum unique.  Two crewmen get their exercise lashing and unfurling the sails during a lively four-hour sail on the Californian.  This adventure is highly recommended for fun seekers. Our sail on the Californian was a delightful one. As our state's official tall ship, she was built from the ground up in 1984 at Spanish Landing in San Diego Bay, Californian was launched with great fanfare for the 1984 Summer Olympic Games in Los Angeles. In July 2003, she was officially designated the tall ship of the State of California, the only vessel to hold this prestigious title. Since her launch, Californian has hosted thousands of adventure seekers, sailing enthusiasts, students, and history buffs along the West Coast. She has  embarked on voyages to Hawaii, Mexico, and the East Coast, becoming one of the most recognizable and celebrated tall ships in  America. We highly recommend a trip on her.  From the stern of the Berkeley, Keller and Cookie are framed by the San Salvador, rear right. THE FERRY Berkeley is another treat, the first ship you'll see after you leave the ticket booth and approach the museum. She is full of lore from her days as a ferry in the Bay Area.  Among her surprises:  a vintage upright piano, donated by a local music lover and ship aficionado and lovingly cared for. The Berkeley has beautiful stained glass windows, polished wooden tables and original sturdy floors. The San Salvador has movie lore and offers pirate adventure.  Berkeley also hosts a delightful concert series, "Music at the Maritime."  It features concerts Sept. 14 and Nov. 9, with the Hausmann Quartet presenting "Haydn Voyages." The concerts finish the 2025 season series. So you see the variety of experiences -- from elegant to rustic, all for those who love maritime lore. More about the museum: #sdmaritime @sdmaritime www.sdmaritime.org www.sdmaritime.org/visit/on-the-water-adventures/tall-ship-adventure-aboard-californian/ .ON TAP: While we're diving into the wonders of maritime museums and exploring our beautiful Pacific Ocean, come with us to two world class aquariums. First, we visit Newport, California's extraordinary Aquarium of the Pacific. The award winning facility is dedicated to instilling "a sense of wonder, respect, and stewardship for the Pacific Ocean, its inhabitants, and ecosystems." Then we take readers inside another fine aquarium, Maui's Ocean Center, a great spot to view our oceans' residents, including an octopus. You'll also see a research lab where coral is grown. Both offer fine arrays of exhibits, surprises and delights -- with an education bent. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, the nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The Dali Theatre-Museum is a magnificent, over-the-top creation designed by Salvador Dali himself.  He supervised construction upon the remains of the former Figueres Theatre of his childhood. It is one of three museums operated by the Dali Foundation, all worthy of close attention. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the Gala Dali Castle in Pubol, a place of exuberant creativity dedicated to Dali's wife. Salvador Dali supervised the "redo" of theformer Figueres theatre, where he showed his early work. The stairway of Dali Theatre-Museum is one of many eye-catching features. HELLO, DALI! SPANISH ARTIST CREATED UNIQUE BODY OF ART Flamboyant maestro of dreams and delusions has trio of unique museums in Spain STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS                                                                 PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A polar bear greets visitors to the Gala and Dali house in Port Lligat, Cadaques. It is one of many bizarre and intriguing features of the home.   IT WAS a dizzying three days, as we visited a trio of museums in Spain devoted to the art of Salvador Dali. His works are under the control of the Dalí Foundation. It includes three very different museums in Figueres, Púbol and Port Lligat in  Cadaqués. We joined 1.5 million people who make a pilgrimage each year to the "Dalí Triangle."  Dali Castle in Port Lligat, Cadaques, is a gorgeous castle which Dali purchased as a gift for Gala. He could not visit without written permission. Each of the 3 museums is unique, worthy of a visit. Dali Castle in Port Lligat, Cadaques, is a gorgeous castle which Dali purchased as a gift for Gala. He could not visit without written permission. It's best to savor them on different days, to spread the wonder -- giving each museum its own "breathing room" and devoting time to each place. They deserve the attention and you will need the time to sort, digest and ponder this maestro of dreams and delusion. WE HAD   visited the Dali Theatre-Museum twice before and years apart since it was inaugurated 50 years ago in 1974.  We decided to revisit the unique museum as it entered its second half- century of entertaining a worldwide audience. We needed the grounding and reminder of his scope. Larger than life Dali, click here THE MUSEUM in Figueres is a culmination of the eccentric surrealist's life work, conceived and designed by Dali, who visited daily to supervise. The place is as intriguing and mysterious as Dali.  Its broad range of work begins with his earliest artistic experiences and follows into his final years.  An homage to Mae West has its own room.    Dali's exquisite jewel artworks: dazzling gold, precious stones. In other galleries, Dali's detailed landscapes need a magnifying glass to fully appreciate his immaculate tiny brushstrokes.  On close inspection, one finds intricate trees, people and objects that might go unnoticed. Our  In Figueres, Mae West has her own gallery. guide borrowed a fellow tourist's phone to show the detail of a postage-stamp-sized detail: an entire cityscape emerged to our "oohs and aahs." There are dozens of drawings, too, and if you aren't sufficiently dazzled, the Dali-Jewels gallery near the building's exit will push you over the top: 41 exquisite gold and stone jewels. THE TWO  less visited museums are a Medieval castle in Pubol, which Dali bought for his wife, muse and equally eccentric Gala, and Dali's castle gift for Gala came with strings attached -- not by him, but by her.     the Salvador Dali House-Museum, the most personal of the three.  It is in the municipality of Cadaques, in a village on the bay known as Port Lligat. (Sometimes spelled as a single word.)  D ali and Gala (center) entertained the Walt Disneys and others. FANS OF Dali will find each place offers fascinating detail with insights into the life of the man who lived from 1904 to 1989. He was named after a dead brother and raised by a tyrannical father which naturally shaped him and influenced his art. He studied in Madrid and in 1929, he met Gala, Russian wife of fellow surrealist poet Paul Éluard. She became his lifelong muse and partner. Gala and Dalí moved into a small house in Portl Lligat in 1930, which they expanded as they purchased nearby fishermen's huts. In 1969, Dali began converting the 12th Century castle in Púbol into '"Gala's Castle" collecting textiles, antiques and murals to create a splendid setting where Gala reigned.  Designed as a gift to Gala, the castle became her private home, and Dalí could visit only with Gala's prior written permission. The approach to Dali's Port Lligat home gives a feeling of the peace that the artist felt there. THE HOME on the port is our favorite -- the complex of transformed fisherman's huts is a maze of eccentric adornments -- a stuffed bear, a mirror that seizes morning light, dozens of personal effects. From his bedroom Dali could see the coast. He built a beautiful terrace, put his spin on a Greek statue and decorated his swimming pool. More on Dali, click here Dali chose the bay for his home. He spent his last years there after his wife, Gala, died. You've likely heard of the world famous Salvador Dalí Theatre Museum in Figueres but not many outside of Spain know about Dalí ’s house in Port  Lligat or his wife’s castle in Pubol, sometimes called  "the Kinky Castle" because Gala entertained her young lovers there. Some believe Dali encouraged her liasons with voyeuristic enthusiasm.   Dali's "The Persistence of Time," his most famous work.   Dali was a master of self promotion and Gala was an expert at getting the best prices for his artwork.   GALA DIED in 1982 and was buried on the Castle's grounds. Then Dalí remained in Port Lligat, establishing his final studio. In our three days, we came to know Dali better.  He was flamboyant -- he wore sweeping capes and grew his signature mustache early in his career.  He was sensitive, felt things deeply and reacted with passion to slights. But the visionary artist strayed from the avant-garde, eventually alienating comrades through his outspoken support for Franco and his idiosyncratic flair. His prodigious creativity cannot be denied for it spawned paintings, sculpture, fashion, advertisements, books and film.  His ending was sad: he was badly burned in a fire and spent his final years wheelchair bound. More information on tickets and booking. Reservations are required: www.salvador-dali.org ; reserves@fundaciodali.org   Antoni Gaudi's Guell Park is full of magical creations. Come with us to visit one of Barcelona's beloved attractions.  ON TAP:  We're in an "art state of mind," visiting both nature's creations and some of the world's greatest museums in Spain, England, the Caribbean and in the U.S. Coming in the next weeks are pieces on Antoni Gaudi's magical Guell Park in Barcelona, the caves of Barbados and Bermuda, a beautiful crater in Ponta Delgada and the masterpieces within the fabulous Museum of Modern Art in New York City. We're mingling with famous artist creations, paintings and painters and we will also head to the real west to feature a Montana museum celebrating the work of cowboy artist Charles Russell. Meanwhile, keep on the sunny side, visit a museum, treat a friend or relative to an art gallery stroll and remember to explore, learn and live.  Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, art, travel, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Happy passengers on a sunset trip up the Kona coast on Body Glove's comfortable, sleek catamaran. Below, on top deck, Body Glove's design is open, airy and offers excellent views. On the ground floor, an historian delivers fascinating commentary and live Hawaiian music is played.   SUPER YACHT FITS LIKE A 'GLOVE' FOR BEAUTIFUL, CULTURAL RIDE UP THE KONA COAST STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Both music and history  are part of the package on a fun dinner cruise. IF YOU HAVE  wanted to take a boat trip up the gorgeous Kona coast, now's the time. Body Glove awaits in Kona's harbor, where its eye-catching design attracts tourists. A graceful and comfortable boat awaits you whether you're in the mood for snorkeling, whale and dolphin watching, or a luxury dinner cruise with cocktails and a tasty meal. This young passenger was moved to dance. Body Glove's newly renovated vessel is tailor made for tourists and locals looking to connect with one of the most beautiful corners of Hawaii. Body Glove's new catamaran is a perfect Hawaiian coastal pleasure boat, for entertainment, viewing of the scenery, relaxing with a beverage and the breeze, and communing with nature.   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers have enjoyed Body Glove several times, here on her exciting "super raft" trip. Its varied itineraries and a pair of vessels offer adventurous snorkel and scenic tours, wildlife viewing and just plain relaxing while enjoying some of the Pacific's most attractive shoreline and wildlife activity. FAMILIES and kids of all ages will enjoy flotation and water toys on day trips, snorkeling with all the gear, whale and dolphin spotting. Toward evening, adults love the sunset and dinner cruises, relaxing evening options with cocktails and a meal served by a smiling, attentive staff. Delicious tender beef, veggies and mashed  potatoes are offered on a dinner cruise.   Body Glove's two-story, 65-foot motor yacht is a sparkling, handsome addition to Kona's Honokoahu Harbor. You'll see it awaiting as you approach.  Next to it is Body Glove's "super raft," which we've enjoyed, too.  It's a pleasant experience, attracting couples and adventure seekers, a small group who enjoy being close to the water.  We recommend both -- they're so different.   WE ACTUALLY  expected we'd be jostled a bit on the "super raft" but we were perfectly comfortable -- albeit yes, we did have a few bumps on the ride back to Kona from the Captain Cook's monument. After the sun sets and evening comes, relaxed  passengers enjoy as the boat returns to Kona Harbo r AS WITH most boat tours, the crew, captain and entertainment make or break it. Body Glove hires top people who understand the importance of Hawaii's famous "aloha" or welcoming spirit. The service and specialists are tops. Wildlife guides, musicians and trained historians are lively and well informed. The crew goes beyond the call to be helpful and courteous, pointing out places to watch or helping spot manta rays, whales and dolphins. We've had great times on every Body Glove experience -- from a rewarding whale watch to lovely dinner cruise and super raft adventure. If you look closely, you'll see the face of Pele  in the beautiful coastal rock formations. ON THIS   recent trip, we had tasty veggie appetizers, drinks and dinner  on our journey up the coast.  We heard tales of early explorers and the native peoples' struggle to sustain its culture through the missionary years.  A highlight: seeing Pele herself in an unusual rock formation.  According to Hawaiian mythology, the revered goddess of fire lives in the volcano on the Big Island. Along the coast, the guide points to her face, visible in the sea cliff. We could picture a woman lying on her side with long, wild red hair and fierce, piercing eyes. It's Pele, Hawaiians believe, keeping us in line. More information: bodyglovehawaii.com Charleston claims to have several of the nation's first churches,   and its first public college, museum and golf club.  UP NEXT : Charleston's wonders unfold as we visit this historic southern city in South Carolina, where most believe the Civil War began at Fort Sumter. The city is a blend of old and new, with well preserved architecture and new buildings conveying a feeling of progress. Charleston boasts the country's first public college, museum, some of the country's oldest churches, and a still active playhouse dating back to its early days. The first golf club in America was founded here. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com    .

Charleston's marina is a busy but peaceful place with shops, restaurants, 17,000 linear feet of dock space for both motorized boats and sailing vessels. It's a beautiful place to stroll, too. CHARLESTON: CITY OF CONTRASTS AND BEAUTY WHERE OLD MEETS NEW, ART AND MUSIC ABOUND, BOATING, SPORTS, MUSEUMS, FINE DINING VIE FOR  THE VISITOR'S ATTENTION    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER This vintage home displays the popular and time honored "haint blue" southern tradition. CHARLESTON, South Carolina, is a city of contrasts. You'll find modern shopping centers and new hotels, skyscrapers, horse drawn carriages and genteel homes from the Civil War era. It boasts a beautiful harbor, the fort where the Civil War began and a gaceful bridge, the Ravenel Bridge, named after Arthur Ravenel Jr., a successful South Carolina businessman who served four terms in the U.S. House of Representatives. Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Bruce  Keller at sunset under the Ravenel Bridge.   The spectacular bridge --   also known as the Cooper River Bridge, is one of many attractions to this attractive town of only 151,000. The bridge is cable-stayed, the third longest in the U.S., and connects downtown Charleston to Mount Pleasant. It is designed to carry 100,000 vehicles per day, a number experts say it will reach before 2030. Last count, more than 97,000 vehicles a day crossed the bridge, which includes a well shared bicycle and pedestrian path. You'll likely transit it when you visit this charming port city, founded in 1670. It is defined by its cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages and pastel antebellum houses, particularly in the elegant French Quarter and Battery districts.  Both Battery Promenade and Waterfront Park overlook Charleston Harbor, while Fort Sumter, a federal stronghold where the first shots of the Civil War rang out, lies across the water. You'll see it on the harbor tour we recommend later. Charleston from the water at night, a pretty sight . The Charleston Princess gives visitors a thorough look at the harbor and coastline, from  Fort Sumter and the bridge. WE ASKED  about the significance of the many pale blue ceilings we saw on Charleston porches. Why that color? You'll find out on a Charleston city tour, as we did with our delightful guide, Alan Rosenfeld. He gives a unique and entertaining city tour, explaining that the color, known as "haint blue," is associated with the  Gullah Geechee people, descendants of enslaved Africans in parts of Georgia and the Carolinas. The word derives from their language and means ghost.  The Gullah people have maintained a rich cultural heritage. Among their traditions was the belief that haint blue repels haints, or ghosts. You'll find the color on thousands of southern porches. African inspired crafts are part of the culture and often seen at fairs and markets.  Established as Charles Town in honor of King Charles II of England, Charleston adopted its present name in 1783. Charleston's streets are defined by attractive, tree lined boulevards and parks.    St. Michael's Anglican Church is one of the city's historic buildings. THE CITY is  home to the Charleston Symphony and many arts related events including an annual Wine and Food Festival, Charleston Fashion Week, Festival of Houses and Gardens, Flowertown Festival, High Water Festival and the MOJA Arts Festival, celebrating black arts and culture. For 17 days and nights each spring, the famed Spoleto Festival USA fills Charleston's historic theaters, churches, and outdoor spaces Piccolo Spoleto Festival and a well known Southeastern Wildlife Exposition are also popular events. A FUN OPTION is a tour of Charleston's historic homes.  Conde Nast offers a good one, hitting the city's best known and nicely maintained relics of a bygone era. (Link at story's end.)    Discover Savannah's charms The Citadel, Army National Guard, is on a unique driving tour we enjoyed . Fort Sumter is on most visitor's "must see" lists. The attack on the fort began the  American Civil War which lasted four years and cost the lives of more than 620,000 Americans. It also freed 3.9 million enslaved people from bondage. THE CITY  made the news with another shooting for it is the scene of the 2015 mass shooting at Mother Emanuel AME Church. The gunman, a white supremacist, entered the church, stayed for the service, then killed nine parishioners. Racism exists in Charleston, and in every town in America. But our New Jersey born guide, who is happily transplanted and loves Charleston, considers it a welcoming place with a pleasant mix of people from around the country. Cookie rings the bell of the Princess. WE NOTICED very little overt racism, but chatting with people of color, we learned that there is still subtle discrimination. "Inevitable, I think," one waiter told us. "People and old ideas and ways are changing, slowly but surely." Excellent tour guide Alan Rosenfeld gives a lively overview. Book him at charlestonharbortours.com . MORE INFORMATION: www.charlestonharbortours.com www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-historic-house-tours-in-charleston www.expedia.com/Things-To-Do-In-Charleston.d179997.Travel-Guide-Activities    Karole Foreman movingly captures the essence of "Lady Day" -- Billie Holiday -- with Lanie Robertson on piano in a fabulous two-person show . BEST BETS: Fans of the great jazz singer Billie Holiday have just a few performances to catch Karole Foreman in the title role in "Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill." Written by Lanie Robertson, it's at Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, San Diego. This stunning two-person show features virtuoso pianist Damon Carter as Jimmy Powers, Holiday's accompanist, friend and confidant, who keeps Billie on point while the tunes seamlessly roll. Carter is musical director for the show, which features Foreman singing many of the singer's best known songs with a running commentary on her loves, losses and the racism, drinking and drug abuse that shadowed her life. Foreman truly captures Holiday, with all her gifts, lip and demons. It's a stunning piece of theater which left us absolutely mesmerized for 90  minutes. Wren T. Brown directs, from Ebony Repertory Theatre of Los Angeles. Worth a trip to San Diego from wherever you are -- even the moon! 619-337-1525, cygnettheatre.com . Through Feb. 18. SCAD's Museum of Art offers beautifully curated exhibitions, including both famous and emerging artists. You'll want to spend  several hours in this artful, open, beautifully curated space. UP NEXT : SCAD. That's the word in Savannah if you are interested in art. Savannah College of Art and Design has an international reputation and attracts students and artists from around the globe.  We spent an entertaining afternoon at the the SCAD Museum of Art, a  premier contemporary art museum  featuring emerging and established international artists through commissioned works and rotating exhibitions. We'll take you there next week, with photos sure to draw a smile. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, travel, nature, family and more.

Bruce Keller poses in one of the many intriguing spaces in the SCAD Museum of Art, where constantly changing exhibitions feature established and emerging artists from around the world.    SCAD: VISIONARY SCHOOL'S MUSEUM MIXES INNOVATION, IMAGINATION IN ARTFUL WELCOMING SPACE An installation by Patrick Dougherty is part of the landscape at the SCAD Museum of Art. Its weaving and bending of sticks is in a way a metaphor for the museum's intent. SCAD IS A WELL  known acronym in Savannah. Everyone recognizes Savannah College of Art and Design, because it is internationally famous. Art students from Iceland come here.  So do budding artists from Peru, Japan, Italy and many other countries. Multiple Oscar winners studied in SCAD's creative halls. Christene "Cookie" Meyers examines an interactive, playful piece using oranges to challenge the visitor. You can't walk a block in Savannah without seeing some SCAD reference, because the enterprise is  museum, school and community presence. With an emphasis on art and design, it has more programs than any other university in the country. This piece focuses on the lovely museum, which challenges the mind, bends notions and knocks stereotypes into the stratosphere. WE FOUND  during two visits an intriguing array of exhibitions, all designed to challenge the mind and refigure our ways of considering the old-fashioned meaning of "museum." Take for instance, the work of Patrick Dougherty. I first saw one of his graceful nature inspired installations in my native Montana at the Tippet Rise Art Center, a magical indoor-outdoor forum for art, music and nature. We were delighted to discover another of his installations in Savannah. "Making the Birds Proud," which -- like the Montana piece --  uses vernacular building techniques and tree saplings to create a welcoming, site-specific sculptural building that twists, towers, bends, coils, and soars. "Walk right in, have a look," it seems to say. At both Tippet Rise and the SCAD Museum of Art, Dougherty mixes his carpentry skills with his love for nature.  Other exhibits do this, too, in unique ways.  "Challenge" is the byword at the SCAD museum, where art, craftsmanship, and design open doors to the imagination and power of art, often encouraging participation from museum guests. This Erwin Wurm photo challenges the viewer to reconsider many things: style, fashion, balance, always with a sly sense of humor.   SCAD's buildings encompass a sweeping architectural range.   WE STOPPED AT  many works which invite touching and imagining in playful yet challenging ways. Just as Dougherty bends and weaves twigs and sticks into tangible shapes, SCAD Museum of Art weaves and bends the imagination, encouraging excellence and high standards. Among SCAD students, guest artists and lecturers are "audacious artists and fashion phenoms," Academy Award winners, Grammy Award recipients and Pulitzer Prize winners, all dedicated to SCAD's mission of exploring the arts in thoughtful, novel ways.  GENDERQUAKE,  for instance, invites viewers to acknowledge ways in which fashion influences culture.  Students find new ways to view and create, whether the medium be photographs or jewelry, music, film, television or furniture -- almost everything the human experience encompasses.   SCAD pushes the envelope, whether in its classes and projects and in the provocative exhibits at its museum.   Consider Erwin  Wurm, our favorite guest artist.  His amusing and thought provoking pieces push the envelope, eliciting smiles even laughter. In one piece, a perfectly dressed, high-fashion male model balances artfully barefoot atop a horse -- reins in one hand, briefcase in the other. Among other varied and ever changing SCAD museum exhibits is one by Korean born artist Cindy Ji Hye Kim.  Her "Silhouettes in Lune" is an intriguing installation of paintings, sculptures, and a striking hand-drawn mural.  The open, airy exhibition spaces at SCAD's museum encourage taking time to reflect. NEARBY   ATLANTA is considered by many the Hollywood of the South, and that is due in great part to  SCAD. Its role in Georgia's growing film and television industry can't be over emphasized, because it is partly generated by an enthusiastic group of students and alumni from  SCAD. SCAD's influence reaches around Savannah, including a fun "Beach" retreat visited recently by Keller & Cookie.    Founded 45 years ago, SCAD has spent decades guiding and grooming students for Hollywood. The school proudly reports 43 SCAD grads from seven disciplines contributed to 11 Emmy-nominated shows, including "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel," "Ted Lasso" and "Succession." SCAD's film alumni have also produced many Oscar winning and Oscar nominated films including "Black Panther: Wakanda Forever" and "Avatar: The Way of Water." Grace Delaney and Robert May weave a magical chemistry as two lonely Irish seniors who form a meaningful friendship.  Humor and pathos merge in this artful production, directed by  Christopher Williams at Scripps Ranch Theatre, through Feb. 25. BEST BET:   If there's a way you can beam yourself to San Diego, an absolute "must see" production is "Chapatti," on the boards at Scripps Ranch Theatre through Feb. 25.  Two terrific actors artfully deliver the lyrical script by Christian O'Reilly. The play tackles serious subjects -- including death and suicide.  But, in typical Irish form, its story unfolds with a perfect blend of humor and pathos. It's one of the top productions we've seen of hundreds in this talented corner of California.  "Chapatti" is both the name of Dan's dog and a popular Indian flatbread.  Betty is a lonely cat lover, who helps bring Dan back to the world of the living. The sensitive production captures the complex dynamic of loneliness and the human need for companionship on a charming, compact set. Broadway quality all the way.  scrippsranchtheatre.org    Tony DeSare headlines with the Desert Symphony Thursday, Feb. 29.   UP NEXT: A musical oasis in the desert! Come with us to Palm Desert, where 35 years ago a group of culture loving music fans organized a symphony orchestra.  Through the years, Desert Symphony has grown to produce a five-part season of popular  performances featuring some of America's best known performers, from Andy Williams and Jose Feliciano to the March 7 hit duo, Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano, who rose to fame in "America's Got Talent" and headline the Symphony's gala. There's still time to book tickets to the Feb. 29 concert by Tony DeSare, noted singer-songwriter, known for his wide-ranging repertoire of Frank Sinatra favorites, with a bit of Billy Joel and Elton John in the mix. Remember  to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on music, travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more.  For tickets: desertsymphony.org  or 760 773-5988.      Daniel Emmet, Pia Toscano promise an evening of fun at Desert Symphony's March 7gala.

Palm Desert is a haven for sun seekers, hikers, bikers, lovers of the desert and its beauty.  Since 1989, tourists and locals alike have something else to attract them to this unique part of the country: the Desert Symphony. The Desert Symphony has a full orchestra of 60 gifted players, from all walks of life.  MUSIC SOARS ABOVE PALMS:GRASSROOTSEFFORT BLOSSOMSTO PRODUCE A SYMPHONY WITH60 PLAYERS ANDA FIVE-SHOWSEASON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Desert Symphony Headlining the March 6 gala to celebrate Desert Symphony's 35th anniversary are Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano, at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage. The Desert Symphony will accompany the duo. THIRTY-FIVE years ago, an ambitious group of Palm Springs residents decided to organize a symphony, to bring orchestra music and musical events to the area normally associated with golfing get-aways, movie stars and admirers of the desert, its relaxed lifestyle and scenery. The Indian Wells Symphony was born in 1989 and soon adopted its present moniker, the Desert Symphony. With the energy of volunteers and support of local businesses and its enthusiastic long-time president Nancy Tapick, a driving force in the region was born. The Symphony's annual gala takes place in the showroom of Agua Caliente Casino Resort and Spa in Rancho Mirage, on March 6.  The reach of the symphony extends to future musicians in Coachella Valley, through programs for school children. "Our goal is to inspire them to become musicians and music appreciators," says Tapick. The Children’s Music Discovery Series offers programs ranging from a string quartet to a wind octet, supervised by the symphony's music director and drawing from the talents of the orchestra, whose musicians have played with major symphonies in the country.   The organization proudly encourages young musicians through scholarships.  Several have gone on to professional music careers.    The Desert Symphony of Palm Springs presents five concerts yearly, including popular entertainers, singers, musicians and acrobats -- plus a major gala  fundraiser.  Performances are enjoyed by both locals and tourists at McCallum Theatre.  THROUGH THE years, the symphony has hosted -- and accompanied -- a "who's who" of popular performers, including its first big name, singer Glen Campbell.    A roster of other famed artists followed including Andy Williams, Jose Feliciano, Peter Nero, the Gatlin Brothers, Tommy Tune, Art Garfunkel, Roger Williams, Jack Jones, Kaye Ballard, Michael Bolton, Jason Alexander, The Texas Tenors, Neil Sedaka, Crystal Gayle, Melissa Manchester, Peter Frampton and recently, Mary Osmond. Next up this season is noted singer Tony DeSare. He promises an evening of treats, celebrating the music of Frank Sinatra, who lived in Palm Springs for many years while touring the world and making films. The Feb. 29 concert is DeSare's second performance with the Symphony.  The first was so well received he was invited to return. Singer songwriter Tony DeSare will headline a concert accompanied by Desert Symphony.  New York born DeSare promises to "do my best to conjure the magic of the music from the Great American songbook with a few surprises sprinkled in."  The jazz and soul singer is also a songwriter and musician and may take a turn at the piano in George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue."  "I’m excited to be working with the wonderful Desert Symphony again," says DeSare, about his return. Then just a few days later, this year's gala features pop duo Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano performing at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage, Wednesday, March 6 . Cocktails are at 5 p.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m., and the concert at 8 p.m. The duo, discovered by Marie Osmond, presents a show, "Simply the Best."  Through years of an impressive five-part season, the Symphony has earned a reputation as one of the finest orchestras of popular music in the southwest United States. Glen Campbell was the first big name to play with  the Desert Symphony. Many other stars followed.  Singer Tommy Tune is one of many luminaries to perform with Desert Symphony, now 35 years old. In its early days, the season  featured great works from the world of classical music, including Beethoven, Mozart, Tchaikovsky, and Brahms. "The orchestra began a slow transition toward  “pops,” says Tapick, when residents and visitors expressed interest in lighter fare.  The board listened, introducing the present format which includes popular entertainers accompanied by the 60-piece orchestra. The Desert Symphony has performed and partnered with the Boys and Girls Clubs of Coachella Valley, the Rancho Mirage Public Library, the City of La Quinta, La Quinta Public Library, the Palm Desert Public Library, and McCallum Theatre, where it presents its docket of five annual "star" concerts. Two final concerts round out the season, a John Denver tribute concert March 27, and "Let's Hang On" April 11, a quartet featuring the music of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons.    For more on the Feb. 29 concert, March 6 gala or the symphony season, call 760 773-5988.       More is more at Oscar's with dancers, acrobats, big wigs and lots of bosoms, eye lashes and make-up Here's Diamond Evvon, with her chest armor.  Oscar's owner and producer Dan Gore as Cheyenne Demuir will zip line from Oscar's  balcony in drag March 10.  UP NEXT: Drag is time honored, and the drag show at Oscar's in Palm Springs is celebrating its sixth anniversary the weekend of March 9-10. Owner Dan Gore plans a special appearance during two performances of Sunday's "Bitchiest Brunch." He will zip line into the house in full drag -- from the balcony to the stage area below. Risque fun is all part of Oscar's brunch birthday party.  Two Sunday shows will feature Gore, dressed as his alter ego Cheyenne Demuir, with Oscar's gang of beauties performing, too. Emcee Anita Rose as the wisecracking spirit of Oscar's keeps the fun and jokes rolling.  She has headlined the brunch show all six years of its run and is a favorite with the packed houses. Book a seat for  laughs, bottomless mimosas, endless irreverence and more. Oscar's also has a great restaurant and many other shows to consider. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature and family. Check out oscarspalmsprings.com/events/ and look for more arts and travel pieces at: www.whereiscookie.com

Oscar's is a fun gig for both full-house audiences and performers, who rake in tips and work hard for them. The "Bitchiest Brunch" features emcee Anita Rose, right, and below ready for her close-up in another costume with  writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers. On Sunday,        March 10,  the "Bitchiest Brunch" features Oscar's owner Dan Gore in drag on a zip line to celebrate six years of crowd pleasing brunches, at both the 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. shows.   OSCAR'S OPUS: DRAG, COMMUNITY SPIRIT AND A HIT WITH THE CROWDS   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OSCAR'S  in downtown Palm Springs is more than a nightclub, a restaurant, or a fun place to see a show.  It's part of the soul of this interesting and diverse city, a mecca for the rich and famous, a place for sun, golf and R&R, and a well known gay and trans-friendly town. Oscar's Owner Dan Gore, aka Cheyenne Demuir, left and right. He'll headline this weekend's "Bitchiest Brunch" Sunday at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.   This weekend marks the sixth  anniversary of  Oscar's weekend Saturday and Sunday drag show's, "Bitchiest Brunch," and owner Dan Gore is celebrating in style. The show is sure to sell out on Sunday, March 10, with producer and entrepreneur Gore dressing for the occasion and whizzing onto the stage on a zip line for two "Bitchiest Brunch" performances, at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Emcee Anita Rose has been with him since the brunch's beginning in Palm Springs, a town with a long, proud history as a gay friendly village.  In the 1970s and 1980s during the AIDS crisis, it was a place for gay men to seek treatment and refuge. Hundreds of people were treated at its medical centers where living costs and medical care were more accessible and cheaper than in New York  or San Francisco. Miss Bee Hiven takes a few green kudos from happy fans. Dan Gore has a long career in the entertainment business, from promoter to filmmaker. He produces the shows and owns Oscar's Cabaret.   When the dancers' bosoms are full, the tip overflow goes into a money box carried by a rover. THUS, THRU THE YEARS,  the city developed a strong reputation as an LGBT-friendly destination. The greenbacks roll in during a performance, as dancers and agile gymnasts shake, rattle,  roll, do splits, kicks, spins and turns for tips. Here Luna Lafierce collects gratuities while dancing and miming all the time.  Today, the Palm Springs area has a flourishing LGBTQ base, and Oscar's celebrates that. We love to visit the venue.  It's lively, friendly and fun.  People smile and laugh. It's an oasis of kindness, acceptance and folks just out to have a good time. Many gay couples choose this desert city for their elderly years. Part of the weekend's proceeds go to the area's LGBTQ Community Center of the Desert, which provides a welcoming environment for all members of the community. Oscar's paves the way for understanding. John Eltinge was born William Dalton and was a   famous 1920s drag queenplaying in New York and London. He performed  for King Edward II. Dancing with audience members is part of the fun at Oscar's with quick costume and wig changes. Here's Luna Lafierce again with a new hairdo.  Wigs are big, boobies are sometimes pointed, and a good time is had by all, here with Diamond Evvon.  SAYS GORE ,"There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment." Does Oscar's have its detractors?  "Oh, sure," says Gore. "But of the skeptics who come in for a show, 70 per cent leave changed and accepting; 30 per cent just don't get it or buy it."  Part of the fun at Oscar's is tipping the dancers. Here a bride-to-be offers tips from her dress. Oscar's -- named for a favorite dog -- is known for its programming diversity which welcomes both straight and gay audiences for its drag cabaret. Besides funding to the LGBTQ Center, Oscar's is also a generous donor to other Palm Springs activities and organizations.  On Christmas Day, Gore and his staff offer a free holiday meal with all the trimmings.  "Anyone can come and it's always packed," he says.  Other ways Oscar's gives back is through contributions to the local food bank, to Boys and Girls Clubs and other civic enterprises. Plaques of gratitude are framed inside with a wall of Hollywood performers who have visited. "We try to be generous to the community," says Gore, in the spirit of "giving back." Oscars brunches give way to evening entertainment. Tickets and info: oscarspalmsprings.com We photographed these charming Gentoo penguins at Bluff Cover in the Falkland Islands, known as Islas Malvinas to the Argentine people.   UP NEXT:    We're on the penguin trail. From a popular Palm Springs drag show to penguins, we're at the tip of South America photographing those enchanting penguins. Depending on your source, there are either 17 or 18 species of penguins on the planet, 5 of which live in Antarctica. Another 4 species live on sub-Antarctic islands. We saw four species, and observed three up close and personal on a recent trip to the Antarctic. Penguins are charming, resilient and adorable. They were the main reason we traveled thousands of miles, cruising from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to see them and other wildlife. We hope you'll enjoy our upcoming story, remembering to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more.   www.whereiscookie.com

Gentoo penguins are recognized by their bright orange feet and their reddish beaks. They are a bit over three feet tall when mature and keep their single egg, then their young chick warm in the folds above their feet. It's an ingenious, generations old technique that mostly works.  PENGUINS OF ANTARCTICA DELIGHT  VISITORS WITH THEIR ANTICS, SURVIVAL INSTINCT, REARING OF THEIR YOUNG   Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller tour at Bluff Covein the Falklands (Las Malvinas), surrounded by Gentoo Penguins STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I HAVE A LOVE affair with penguins. Since childhood, I've admired these beautiful and complex creatures. Years ago, near Three Forks, Montana, my parents paid 50 cents a head for our family to step inside a large trailer and view two forlorn penguins on a block of ice. King penguins are distinguished by their bright orange markings. Here they are communicating with one another. Each has a unique sound and pitch so parents and young can find one another in crowds. They just sat stoically on the ice and I envisioned them free, doing what penguins do. This wouldn't happen now -- it shouldn't have happened then. But it propelled me into a lifetime of animal advocacy, animal love and respect. It encouraged me to travel thousands of miles -- twice -- to view penguins in their native habitat of the vast Antarctic. PENGUINS ARE  charming, resilient, and adorable.  They make us laugh as they move, and their young are captivatingly cute.  We chose a Celebrity cruise out of Buenos Aires to travel south south to the Antarctic. Delta flights direct from Bozeman to Atlanta, then on to Buenos Aires, arrived on time. We toured a week before our two-week Celebrity cruise. The purpose was to see wildlife, primarily penguins. Penguins are at the top of my "favorite wildlife" list.  Of the 18 species on the planet, 11 are threatened, so we wanted to see them again while we're still agile enough to make the 6,452 mile trip from Bozeman -- 8,600 miles from our other base in San Diego.   WE CHOSE  Celebrity and its beautiful Celebrity Eclipse.  We love the ship and it went where we wanted to explore, with a fine focus on wildlife. Our driver's jacket shows "penguin pride." The largest colony of Magellanic penguins is found on Punta Tombo, where this pair seems content and healthy and did not shy away from our cameras. The route allowed us to spend several days watching three main species, although we saw others. Today's feature focuses on the King, Gentoo and Magellanic penguins -- the latter named after Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. He, too, was captivated by penguins during his five expeditions to South America in 1519, which opened trade routes across the oceans to the East Indies. Getting to penguins involves a long journey to the southern hemisphere, then a cruise out of Buenos Aires, then boarding tenders or zodiacs to search for the penguin colonies. There are 8 species of penguins in Antarctica and the surrounding region: Emperor, Adélie, Gentoo, Rockhopper, Macaroni, Magellanic, Chinstrap and King. All are devoted to their young, and mostly monogamous, at least during pregnancy and until the youngster is able to fend for himself. "Then it's up to them," our guide said.  PENGUINS ARE  amazing animals. Their characteristics have long fascinated millions of us, that brotherhood of animal lovers around the world. They go incredible distances to find food for their young, sharing responsibility for maturing each precious egg.  "Keller and Cookie" enjoy communion with the Magellanic penguins of the Falklands. The Emperor penguin marches -- some say "waddles" -- 75 miles one way to find food for his or her baby. In all the species we viewed, both parents participate in the care of the egg and feeding of the chick once hatched. Among other fascinating evolutionary traits, their stomachs have adapted to allow them to drink saltwater. Each species is unique its appearance and habits. THE FIRST  ones we met were the Gentoo penguins. With flamboyant red-orange beaks, white-feather caps, and peach-colored feet, Gentoos stand out against their drab, rock-strewn Antarctic habitat. At Bluff Cove, they share the space with King penguins, the second largest species of penguin, slightly smaller, but similar in appearance to the Emperor penguin. We found these guys and gals irresistible with their shiny black heads, chins, and throats.  A distinctive mark is the vivid orange, tear-shaped patches on each side of the head. This striking tangerine hued coloration extends to the upper chest.  Most of them came up to my shoulder -- about 38 inches. The young are furry, and develop the waterproof skin as they get closer to their diving and swimming debut with the water.  What is magical about being with penguins is the rapport with these splendid creatures. As Keller said, "Viewing them in a majestic place,  we feel the remote locale and the unique experience of communion."  The tranquility and order -- with everything in place as nature takes its course -- lingers in our hearts, minds and memories. A mother King penguin tends to her plump little chick. The parents usually lose up to half of their body weight during the first crucial year of feeding their young . More information: celebritycruises.com worldwildlife.org Delta Air Lines has a great direct flight to Buenos Aires from Atlanta. We base in Montana part of the year and were thrilled to take advantage of Delta's direct flight to Atlanta from Bozeman. Nice connection and avoids the extra stop from Billings to Salt Lake or Minneapolis.  www.delta.com   From a distance, these resemble penguins, but they are cormorants, great divers, near the town of Ushuaia. UP NEXT:  While we're way south of Buenos Aires, we take readers on our next foray to Ushuaia, which beckons us to explore and enjoy the wildlife there. Ushuaia is a pretty resort town in Argentina, where residents crave the sun which seems to visit only occasionally. It's located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the “End of the World.” The windswept and tidy town, perched on a steep hill, is surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to Antarctica, where we took a day-long boat trip from our cruise ship. The nearby Isla Yécapasela is known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies and stunning cormorants.   Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. Soon, we'll visit stately Colonia in Uruguay, the magnificent opera house, Colon, in Buenos Aires, and the turtles of Poipu on the island of Kauai.  Sharp direction and a knock-out cast make "Hand to God" a must see theater experience. It's provocative, funny yet  poignant, connecting with the audience on many levels.   BEST BET:   An ensemble of gifted actors brings "Hand to God" to life in a hilarious yet poignant production by Roustabouts Theatre Company in San Diego. It's a sardonic, over-the-top study of morality, faith and the human condition. Eye-popping antics unfold on the intimate Diversionary Theatre stage. It's an adult comedy with dark undertones featuring an x-rated puppet whose foul mouth expresses a sardonic flip side to its mild-mannered owner.  Roustabouts founder Phil Johnson employs his evocative direction to bring New York playwright Robert Askins's work to southern California. An exceptional cast of five shines with perfect timing and physical innuendo. Rebecca Crigler, Adam Daniel, Samantha Ginn, Dave Rivas and Devin Wade obviously enjoy their craft as they fine-tune each move and wisecrack. "Hand to God" is thought provoking, asking its audience between laughs, to consider the hypocrisy of religion and moral codes which ultimately contradict themselves.  The characters' body language and facial movements create a vernacular of their own.  Don't miss it if you're anywhere in the state, country or planet. A must for the thinking theater goer.  (619) 569-5800 or visit www.theroustabouts.org .

Cormorants abound off the tip of South America, with a motor boat trip from Ushuaia. From a distance they resemble penguins, which are found nearby near "the end of the world."  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are delighted to be on the penguin trail, motoring out of Ushuaia, Argentina. WELCOME TO THE END OF THE WORLD: BOATS, BIRDS, COLD AND BEAUTY AWAIT  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  A giant southern sea lion sits surrounded by his harem and young pups, while cormorants stand sentinel in the distance. Fishing and pleasure boats can be found in the Ushuaia harbor, at the end of the continent . THE ANTICIPATION was electric.  We could feel the excitement in our small touring boat, a comfy catamaran which took us from the cruise port terminal in Ushuaia toward Isla de Los Pajaros, or Bird Island. We were looking for penguins and cormorants. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Ushuaia on an outing from Celebrity. We two sipped tea while others ordered red wine. Together we cruised the Beagle Channel and approached the island, covered with cormorants and seals. The birds fooled us at first, because they resemble penguins from a distance. But as we came closer we could see their  orange feet and large impressive wings.  Definitely not penguins. But beautiful cormorants. Penguins would come a bit later. The cormorants  are noisy, demanding critters -- fun to watch as they spread their wings, dive to feed their young, ever keeping one another in line. WE KNEW   we were in for a treat leaving windy, wild and sometimes wet Ushuaia, located at the tip of Argentina and a busy port city for Antarctica cruises. It holds the title as the southernmost town on the American continent and in the world. The charm of Magellenic penguins is obvious from the first encounter. They are captivatingly cute. Isla de los Pájaros is a rock sticking out of the Beagle Channel, several miles offshore from Ushuaia. It gets its name because it’s home to hundreds, perhaps thousands, of birds. El Fin del Mundo -- the end of the world -- beckoned Cookie and Keller on an adventure to view wildlife. THE PEOPLE of Ushuaia welcome the sun because they don't always have it in their windswept town, perched on a steep hill and surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to our tour to several islands, including  Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies of mostly Magellenic penguins and a beautiful park, Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we also stopped. It is closer to the Antarctic Peninsula than to Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires, where our adventure began on a cruise five days earlier. MANY PEOPLE never consider a trip to this remote part of the world, but we've been many places -- including an earlier trip to this part of the planet -- and we love it.  We prepared for the dips in temperature -- from 90 degrees F in Buenos Aires, to below freezing in the Antarctic.  I grew up in Montana, and was excited to return to this part of the subantarctic forest, with its tundra, glaciers and gorgeous coastline. The Magellanic penguin can be recognized by his beautiful curved markings and pink around his eyes. Tierra del Fuego also offers jagged peaks, a thick beech forest, and a wild array of animals — including a relative of the camel, the graceful guanaco with its coveted fur. Whether you're cruising or visiting on your own, Ushuaia is a fascinating place. Its classic birding spots besides the islands we visited include its famous landfill where the caracara vulture abounds, the ski-lift area at the Martial Glacier, the national park, and Garibaldi Pass to the north of the city. My birding cousin Betty would have loved our outing.  "The more remote the better," was her motto.  Remote, Ushuaia is.  And wondrous. www.celebritycruises.com An accomplished cast presents a polished production of  "Tartuffe," Moliere's masterful satire. Director Richard Baird works magic in this satirical comedy.                                                           --photo by Aaron Rumley BEST BETS: A first-rate production of "Tartuffe,"   Moliere's satirical comedy on religious hypocrisy, is selling out in San Diego. The work, at always inventive North Coast Repertory Theatre, features Richard Baird's imaginative direction.  His impeccable actor's timing shines on the other side of the footlights in this timely 17th Century romp. It's brilliantly acted with belly laughs aplenty as the fraud Tartuffe worms his way into a wealthy French home, fooling the lord of the manor and his mother, but not every member of the household. The production is a breakneck ride of wit, wigs and naughty merriment. Poet Richard Wilbur's translation preserves the playwright's delightful rhyming couplets and double entendres. Baird and his virtuoso cast deliver Moliere in all his bawdy brilliance.  Through April 7. 858 481-1055. northcoastrep.org       Colonia in Uruguay, is known for its historic quarter and beautiful Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums sport gorgeous ceramic tiles, a Colonia specialty . UP NEXT: Colonia in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, faces Buenos Aires, Argentina and is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. We found it charming and inviting, not as "touristy" as we'd expected. The lovely village is the departmental capital,  Colonia del Sacramento, known for its cobbled historic quarter and colonial Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums are also on view, including the Museo del Azulejo, filled with ceramic tiles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, the bullring in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, was built in 1909 but soon closed after prohibition of bull fighting in 1912. After a century of abandonment, it was restored in 2021, transformed into a cultural center. COLONIA: STORMY PAST OF CONTESTED CITY NOW TRANQUIL TOURIST VILLAGE QUAINT TOURIST TOWN ATTRACTS VISITORS FROM ARGENTINA, URUGUAY,AND BEYOND    Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento is one of the graceful reminders of the long and colorful history of Colonia. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NOW A QUAINT little tourist town in southwestern Uruguay, Colonia del Sacramento has a rich and stormy history. Like many contemporary cities, one wouldn't envision war and conflict from its peaceful present facade. Located on the vast expanses of  Rio de la Plata, Colonia faces Buenos Aires, Argentina, and is one of Uruguay's most visited and oldest towns. It's also a popular weekend getaway for wealthy and middle-class Argentines, known as "porteños   " or people of the port because so many arrived by boat. The streets of Colonia reall an earlier time. Little shops, eateries and old stone buildings remind of long ago. WE FOUND two convenient ways to reach Colonia: by bus from Montevideo or by boat from Buenos Aires. Through the centuries, legions of settlers and explorers have arrived by the murky brown waters of the huge river. The quickest and easiest way is still by water, with two ferry companies operating from Buenos Aires, a pleasant 75 minute ride in one of the comfortable, frequent ships.  The bus trip from Montevideo is longer -- about two hours -- with mostly farmland and prairie out the window and not as comfortable as the ferry. These ferries are unlike others we've used in Europe or Asia. They're huge little cities, with several classes of seats (we chose the Buquebus mid-priced option.) The comfy seats recline, there's an enormous duty free shop on board and a variety of snack and beverage options. Colonia's lighthouse dates to 1850.   Arriving in the town, population 27,000, is a relaxing change from busy Buenos Aires. Its historic quarter is a Unesco World Heritage Site. But besides historic buildings attracting tourism, today's  Colonia produces textiles. It also boasts a free trade zone, a busy polytechnic center and government buildings. WHILE THE  Portuguese established Colonia in 1680, it has been heavily disputed and many times brought under siege as Spain desired it, too.  Spain took the city twice -- in 1681 and 1705, claiming the area based on the Treaty of Tordesillas. But the Spanish returned it to the Portuguese by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. The Spanish-Portuguese war lasted two brutal years from 1735-37, but failed. The dispute's long history stems from Colonia's river location which is still attracting explorers and investors. Uruguay has launched plans to create its version of Silicon Valley in Colonia. ''Colonia Ala Este'' is designed by U.S. investors to attract Argentine immigrantswho wish to escape the challenging economy in their country. The goal is to double the population -- to 60,000 people. With an initial investment of more than US$100 million, plans are to build a sustainable city open to the community to generate a hub for the knowledge- economy industry.  The designated 500-hectare site  includes forests and seven kilometers of coastline with lovely beaches including Calabrés and Fernando. Colonia's pastels, stone and stucco make it an attractive stop for tourists, who can easily spend a day or two. ANOTHER SIGN of growth is the impressive Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos, a former bullring now reinvented. Built in 1909, the ring was shortly closed after prohibition of bull fighting in 1912. In 2021, after a century of abandonment, it was beautifully restored and transformed into a cultural center for musical and sports. Colonia is a pleasant place for a stroll, with its cobblestone, attractive architecture and great bridge.  Colonia is truly Uruguay's shining star, a pretty little "cash cow" without being corny. It's welcoming and safe, with history at every turn, beautiful little shops and terrific dining at half the price of Buenos Aires, which we also love. We found it a pleasant complement to the bustle of the city. We dined on tasty fish, chicken and salad with a river view in one of Colonia's many eateries. Colonia is popular with tourists from South America and beyond, but particularly Buenos Aires and the U.S. Colonia is a popular getaway for both Argentines and international travelers  enjoyed a day in the picturesque town where westrolled around low houses and quiet squares, developed centuries ago. TO BOOK A FERRY: directferries.com coloniaexpress.com Tango relies on quick movement, sexy poses and agile dancers, always backed by expert musicians. UP NEXT: Tango, that seductive, sexy, passionate dance of Argentina and Uruguay, originated in the bordello.  It was once a dance practiced only by prostitutes, pimps and those considered "low life" by the aristocracy.  Now it is a major tourist attraction and respected artform. It is also expensive, if you frequent the clubs. But there are ways to see tango without paying through the nose.  Buskers often tango for tips, and if you're on a cruise in that part of the world, you'll have tango as part of the cruise fare. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch  us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, travel, nature, family and more: