Cool off, enjoy at Borrego's Palms at Indian Head, a boutique treasure

The Palms at Indian Head offers a tranquil, beautiful escape from city life, with its open airy feel.

DESERT HIDEAWAY DESERVES YOUR VISIT

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

The property boasts an Olympic size pool, which is a popular
place to be as temperatures heat up in the desert. 

YOU'LL STEP BACK in time at the Palms at Indian Head -- to a world where nature artfully complements man-made beauty.

It's a unique hotel which feels both laid back and sophisticated, thanks to careful development by a visionary couple.

David Leibert and Cynthia Wood

saved  the complex from neglect when they bought and lovingly  restored the main building where stars of cinema's golden age relaxed.

You'll find unsurpassed desert views, privacy and solitude.

Imagine Clark Gable, Lon Chaney, Will Rogers, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe lounging by the pool. Pretend it's 1950. The stars are enjoying the bar, golf, a quiet place to read, relax, swim and visit.

EVERYONE was relaxed then, and  the creative owners have preserved that "laid back" feeling at the 20-acre, 12-room resort, built in 1947.

Thanks to the enterprising owners and their love of nature, you can soak up the ambiance, wander on a nearby nature trail, enjoy a leisurely meal or swim in the pools. Nearly eight decades after the property was conceived, Leibert and Wood are patiently restoring it to its glory days -- with their own spin and tasteful  

The hotel's gallery showcases a tasteful mix
 of fine art, often reflecting desert imagery.
Here's a Michael Weelden's piece.

architectural changes. (The original bungalows were lost to fire but are mostly replaced by a charming boutique hotel over the lobby and lounge, and a few guest cottages on ground level.) The two were inspired by the beautiful trees on the property -- California's famous fan palms, Mexican palms and date producing palms near the pool. Thus the name, which also reflects the inn's location. It is located at the base of Indian Head Mountain,  a stately summit in the gorgeous San Ysidro Mountains.

The town is Borrego Springs and the area is the Anza Borrego Desert, named after Juan Bautista de Anza, a Spanish explorer who explored the region in 1774. Borrego refers to the bighorn sheep that inhabit the area, and is the Spanish word for lamb.

Framed by a soon-to-bloom
ocotillo on a Palms bike ride. 

 THE OWNERS'  love of nature and impeccable artistic vision blend in this unique place. You'll hear Frank Sinatra tunes as you check in.  If you stroll the grounds, you'll see remains of the original hotel bungalows, lost to fire.

Owners Dave Leibert and Cindy Wood
at Machu Pichu. The two travel widely 
and run two Borrego Springs venues.

Replacing them are the boutique hotel and a popular restaurant, Coyote Steakhouse. Another local favorite restaurant is the more casual Red Ocotillo, also owned by Leibert and Wood.

THE TWO have worked hard to make their restaurants and the inn welcoming. All around the Coyote Steakhouse, you'll hear chirping birds.  We also saw rabbits, a roadrunner and dozens of charming little lizards on the walkways.

Gifted pianist Joey Ross plays weekends at the
Palms, here with musician Cookie enjoying.
Steve Hunter also plays from time to time.

Enhancing the desert's pleasures is a lovely gallery offers artfully showcasing landscapes, appealing pottery and imaginative paintings. On weekends, gifted pianist Joe Ross offers a range of beautifully played classics, '50s and '60s pop, light classics and occasional Scott Joplin ragtime. A genius at variety and smooth segue, he plays inventive medleys with hypnotic force in a repertoire ranging from French impressionists to jazz and the Sinatra repertoire which is synonymous with the inn.   

THE MENU at the Steakhouse is superbly chosen, with artful, tasty salads and a range of entrees including steaks, chops, seafood and chicken  -- all beautifully  prepared.  We've tried the steaks, salmon and chicken -- all delicious. Of the many appealing appetizers, the tasty ahi tartare and crab cakes are treats.  Lobster, osso bucco, special holiday offerings  and other delights are offered and if you dine before 6 p.m., enjoy a price break on a prix fixe meal. We end with the sugar-free cheesecake, and there's often homemade berry cobbler. An after dinner tradition is a stroll: the property rests on land once occupied by the Cahuilla Indians and the mountain profile of a reclining Indian frames the property and inspires a closer look during after the satisfying meal.  It's also beautiful at dawn and dusk. 

We parked our bikes outside the Palms' gallery,
which offers a nicely displayed and tasteful
mix of paintings and sculpture.

THE BUILDING that now houses most of the rooms was constructed in 1958 in the famous California "Mid-Century Modern" style -- with Mondrian influences. The architect is unknown but David and Cindy narrowed the field to Joseph Eickler, Cliff May and Albert Frey, all noted for their flair in the style of the day.

IN THE DAY it was called Hoberg's Desert Resort, and guests reveled in the star-studded night sky. We did the same recently, after hiking and biking the  retreat and exploring nearby Palm Canyon. The stars -- like the inn itself -- have a timeless appeal.

Information: To book a room at the Palms or reserve a table for dinner at Coyote Steakhouse: stay@thepalmsatindianhead.com 760-440-6824

To book redocotillo.com 1 760-767-7400

Dine in or take out.

For expert tips on organizing your time & what to see: andrea@GotoBorregoSprings.com

BEST BETS: 

Erica Marie trades her apron for sexy
cocktail dresses, food banter, songs. 

A merry mix of music and food chat takes the audience on a spin around the globe in "I Can Cook, Too." This engaging work is gracing the stage at New Village Arts in Carlsbad through May 26. It's served hot, sassy and sizzling by singer-actor Erica Marie Weisz backed by a terrific musical trio and fun lighting and sound effects. Inspiration for the piece came to Erica Marie during the exile days of COVID.  She found therapy in isolation by combining her two loves: musical theater and cooking. She sings, sashays and flirts, stirring up a couple dozen tunes, all with dining, food and romance references. The songs are served in "courses" and the range is impressive -- from sultry Peggy Lee songs to Edith Piaf's signature piece, a ballad from "Sunset Boulevard," Jerome Kern's "Smoke Gets in Your Eyes" and more.  New Village stalwart Olivia Pence joins Erica Marie for a stirring rendition of "Happy Days Are Here Again/Get Happy" made famous by Judy Garland and her daughter, Liza Minnelli, and beautifully delivered here. Weisz's wit, energy and her clever script pair cooking and song with help from a brilliant "sous chef," pianist and musical director Patrick Marion. It's a tasty romp with bass player Martin Martiarena and percussionist Jon Berghhouse. What fun to see gifted faces in San Diego musical theater together. Marion's flawless accompaniment includes an accordion cameo in "La Via en Rose." This marvelous production comes dressed with a half-dozen costume changes and an hilarious audience participation number that brings the house down. The show sent this Broadway Baby tap dancing down memory lane. For tickets: (760) 433-3245 or newvillagearts.org

Bruce Keller prepares to help hoist the sails on
California's official tall ship, the Californian.
It is one of many nautical treasures one can
board and enjoy at Maritime Museum of San Diego.
 

ON TAP: Ahoy, maties. Kick off the summer with an adventure on the sea.  It's almost Memorial Day weekend and with that comes the beginning of summer tourism. Here in San Diego, we're ready to welcome ocean loving tourists. The city's world class Maritime Museum of San Diego offers a wonderful immersion in nautical lore and life on the high seas.  An impressive collection of vessels includes the Californian, our state's official tall ship, so we step back in time with a four-hour sail on it, and help hoist the sails.  It is a showpiece of the much loved museum with knowledgeable docents to help you step back in time, visiting a pirate ship and a submarine.  The Museum is a treasure trove of vintage vessels -- the steamship Berkeley, the famous Star of India, which rounded the Horn in the early 1800s, and the San Salvador where famous movies were filmed. Then picture yourself on a yacht with a beautiful view, live music, a glass of your favorite beverage and delicious food.  It could be a brunch or dinner cruise aboard City Cruises, coming to readers soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, the arts, family and more.