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Ushuaia tour: End of the world awaits with wondrous birds, parks, inspiring sea coast

  • Writer: Cookie & Keller
    Cookie & Keller
  • Mar 21, 2024
  • 3 min read

Updated: 1 day ago

Cormorants abound off the tip of South America, with a motor boat trip from Ushuaia. From a distance, they resemble penguins, which are found nearby
Cormorants abound off the tip of South America, with a motor boat trip from Ushuaia. From a distance, they resemble penguins, which are found nearby at "the end of the world," a wondrous sight.


Smiling Keller and Cookie take a selfie on a boat off the coast of Ushuaia, with calm gray water and a lighthouse behind
Keller and Cookie motor off the coast of Ushuaia, with calm gray water and a lighthouse behind

WELCOME TO THE END OF THE WORLD: BOATS, BIRDS, COLD AND BEAUTY SURROUND TRAVELERS


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated July of 2026.

A giant southern sea lion sits surrounded by his harem and pups, while cormorants stand sentinel in the distance
A giant southern sea lion sits surrounded by his harem and pups, while cormorants stand sentinel in the distance.
An array of fishing and pleasure boats are docked in the Ushuaia harbor, at the end of the continent.
Fishing and pleasure boats are docked in the Ushuaia harbor, at the end of the continent.

THE ANTICIPATION was electric.  We could feel the excitement in our small touring boat, a comfy catamaran which took us from the cruise port terminal in Ushuaia toward Isla de Los Pajaros, or Bird Island. We were looking for penguins and cormorants. We were not disappointed.

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Ushuaia on an outing with Celebrity Cruises
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Ushuaia on an outing with Celebrity.

We two sipped tea while others enjoyed red wine. Together we cruised the Beagle Channel and approached the island, covered with thousands of cormorants and seals. The birds fooled us at first, because they resemble penguins from a distance. But as we came closer we could see their  orange feet and large impressive wings.  Definitely not penguins. But beautiful cormorants. Penguins would come a bit later. The cormorants  are noisy, demanding critters -- fun to watch as they spread their wings, dive to feed their young, ever keeping one another in line.

WE KNEW  we were in for a treat leaving windy, wild and sometimes wet Ushuaia, located at the tip of Argentina and a busy port city for Antarctica cruises. It holds the title as the southernmost town on the American continent and in the world.

The charm of Magellenic penguins by the hundreds on the beach is obvious from the first encounter.
The charm of Magellenic penguins is obvious from the first encounter. They are captivatingly cute.

Isla de los Pájaros is a rock sticking out of the Beagle Channel, several miles from Ushuaia. It gets its name because it’s home to hundreds, perhaps thousands, of birds.


Cookie and Keller in Tierra del Fuego, by a log sign noting entrance to the Parque Nacional -- the end of the world!
El Fin del Mundo -- the end of the world -- beckoned Cookie and Keller on an exciting adventure to view wildlife pf the southern hemisphere.

THE PEOPLE of Ushuaia welcome the sun because they don't always have it in their windswept town, perched on a steep hill and surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to our tour to several islands, including  Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies of mostly Magellenic penguins and a beautiful park, Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we also stopped.

It is closer to the Antarctic Peninsula than to Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires, where our adventure began on a cruise five days earlier.

MANY PEOPLE never consider a trip to this remote part of the world, but we've been many places -- including an earlier trip to this part of the planet -- and we love it.  We prepared for the dips in temperature -- from 90 degrees F in Buenos Aires, to below freezing in the Antarctic.

 I grew up in Montana, and was excited to return to this part of the subantarctic forest, with its tundra, glaciers and gorgeous coastline.


 Magellanic penguins on the beach; they are recognized by  beautiful curved markings and pink around the eyes
The Magellanic penguin can be recognized by his beautiful curved markings and pink around his eyes.

Tierra del Fuego also offers jagged peaks, a thick beech forest, and a wild array of animals — including a relative of the camel, the graceful guanaco with its coveted fur.

Whether you're cruising or visiting on your own, Ushuaia is a fascinating place.

Its classic birding spots besides the islands we visited include its famous landfill where the caracara vulture abounds, the ski-lift area at the Martial Glacier, the national park, and Garibaldi Pass to the north of the city.

My birding cousin Betty would have loved our outing.  "The more remote the better," was her motto.  Remote, Ushuaia is.  And wondrous.


Sunset over a cobblestone street lined with old stone houses in Colonia's historic old quarter, photographed at sunset
Colonia in Uruguay, is known for its historic quarter and beautiful Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums display gorgeous ceramic tiles, a Colonia specialty.

UP NEXT: Colonia in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, faces Buenos Aires, Argentina and is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. We found it charming and inviting, not as "touristy" as we'd expected. The lovely village is the departmental capital,  Colonia del Sacramento, known for its cobbled historic quarter and colonial Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums are also on view, including the Museo del Azulejo, filled with ceramic tiles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

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