Ushuaia tour: End of the world awaits with wondrous birds, parks, inspiring sea coast
- Cookie & Keller

- Mar 21, 2024
- 3 min read
Updated: 1 day ago


WELCOME TO THE END OF THE WORLD: BOATS, BIRDS, COLD AND BEAUTY SURROUND TRAVELERS
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER
"The Carpe Diem Kids"
Editor's Note: This piece was reviewed and updated July of 2026.


THE ANTICIPATION was electric. We could feel the excitement in our small touring boat, a comfy catamaran which took us from the cruise port terminal in Ushuaia toward Isla de Los Pajaros, or Bird Island. We were looking for penguins and cormorants. We were not disappointed.

We two sipped tea while others enjoyed red wine. Together we cruised the Beagle Channel and approached the island, covered with thousands of cormorants and seals. The birds fooled us at first, because they resemble penguins from a distance. But as we came closer we could see their orange feet and large impressive wings. Definitely not penguins. But beautiful cormorants. Penguins would come a bit later. The cormorants are noisy, demanding critters -- fun to watch as they spread their wings, dive to feed their young, ever keeping one another in line.
WE KNEW we were in for a treat leaving windy, wild and sometimes wet Ushuaia, located at the tip of Argentina and a busy port city for Antarctica cruises. It holds the title as the southernmost town on the American continent and in the world.

Isla de los Pájaros is a rock sticking out of the Beagle Channel, several miles from Ushuaia. It gets its name because it’s home to hundreds, perhaps thousands, of birds.

THE PEOPLE of Ushuaia welcome the sun because they don't always have it in their windswept town, perched on a steep hill and surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to our tour to several islands, including Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies of mostly Magellenic penguins and a beautiful park, Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we also stopped.
It is closer to the Antarctic Peninsula than to Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires, where our adventure began on a cruise five days earlier.
MANY PEOPLE never consider a trip to this remote part of the world, but we've been many places -- including an earlier trip to this part of the planet -- and we love it. We prepared for the dips in temperature -- from 90 degrees F in Buenos Aires, to below freezing in the Antarctic.
I grew up in Montana, and was excited to return to this part of the subantarctic forest, with its tundra, glaciers and gorgeous coastline.
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Tierra del Fuego also offers jagged peaks, a thick beech forest, and a wild array of animals — including a relative of the camel, the graceful guanaco with its coveted fur.
Whether you're cruising or visiting on your own, Ushuaia is a fascinating place.
Its classic birding spots besides the islands we visited include its famous landfill where the caracara vulture abounds, the ski-lift area at the Martial Glacier, the national park, and Garibaldi Pass to the north of the city.
My birding cousin Betty would have loved our outing. "The more remote the better," was her motto. Remote, Ushuaia is. And wondrous.

UP NEXT: Colonia in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, faces Buenos Aires, Argentina and is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. We found it charming and inviting, not as "touristy" as we'd expected. The lovely village is the departmental capital, Colonia del Sacramento, known for its cobbled historic quarter and colonial Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums are also on view, including the Museo del Azulejo, filled with ceramic tiles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com





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